Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 649 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #19441 of 20384 Old 11-20-2019, 02:49 PM
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Originally Posted by catav View Post
Wouldn't that make the picture backwards (left to right) with text reading backward?
Under installation, you select rear projection, ceiling mount.
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post #19442 of 20384 Old 11-20-2019, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I just confirmed I am not using zone correction and the "blob" that I am seeing also gets worse as the iris closes and probably why I wasn't seeing it on HDR material in the past. I was running the DI at -4 and at this setting I can not see the blob at all, but the lower I go the worse it gets. Now that I run it at -12 it is very visible.
Something in the light path? Have you tried changing focus to see if you can focus the blob better? You can do that with dust blobs I think. This is over a large area though, right? So probably not dust. Have to be something else in the light path.
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post #19443 of 20384 Old 11-20-2019, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by talon95 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
I just confirmed I am not using zone correction and the "blob" that I am seeing also gets worse as the iris closes and probably why I wasn't seeing it on HDR material in the past. I was running the DI at -4 and at this setting I can not see the blob at all, but the lower I go the worse it gets. Now that I run it at -12 it is very visible.
Something in the light path? Have you tried changing focus to see if you can focus the blob better? You can do that with dust blobs I think. This is over a large area though, right? So probably not dust. Have to be something else in the light path.
Honestly not too sure what it could be. I have only tried changing the DI to see if that affected it and it does.

I’ll let my JVC tech know about it showing up the further the DI is closed down. There must be something in the light path causing it. Possibly something like a stain on one of the parts? I just hope it’s a quick easy fix.
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post #19444 of 20384 Old 11-20-2019, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by dlinsley View Post
EDIT: See this post where I fixed this: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post58642454

I should probably take this to the calibration thread, but I finally had enough hours on my RS3000's bulb to do a calibration. The following was measured at my SDR settings on -7 low lamp (DI on manual for measurement):

Has anyone else measured such a droop after so short a time? OOB measurements I've seen earlier were very good.
I just finished calibrating an NX7 with 350 hours. The gamma droop by itself wasn't too bad (around 2.13), but Blue has a much more severe droop than Red and Green, resulting in an overall bluish tint:




After running autocal the R/G/B tracking is much better. It does confirm that Frame Adapt HDR also gets calibrated when using another Picture Mode with the same power/filter setting, but it still has a noticeable residual error and I see no way of correcting it:

HDR10:


Frame Adapt:
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JVC DLA-NX7; Denon AVR-X3400H; HD Fury Vertex; ATV4K; Fire TV Cube
JVC Projector Bright Curves; Optimizing HDR;
Creating a basic HDR curve using Arve’s Tool;
Replacing JVC Bare Bulbs

Last edited by Dominic Chan; 11-21-2019 at 12:20 PM.
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post #19445 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 04:47 AM
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Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread

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post #19446 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by scoochie View Post
Thanks for the suggestion Manni. My PJ connection is IR and not IP. I don't have the capability for a direct ethernet connection to the projector and there is no wifi on the PJ so I'm stuck with IR. Are there any other possible solutions you can think of?
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
Sorry, I don't use iRule for direct IR control, so I never use pronto codes.

I use IP control codes and send them as IP, or use a global cache IP to IR converter for the devices that don't have IP control.
Manni, can you try the IR emulation version of that command via iRule IP control? It should be:
21 89 01 52 43 37 33 45 43 0A

If this works, it indicates that the engine accepts the IR command and works with it. This would be useful to know if the IR version of the command is implemented at all or if it is just being used wrong.

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post #19447 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Manni, can you try the IR emulation version of that command via iRule IP control? It should be:
21 89 01 52 43 37 33 45 43 0A

If this works, it indicates that the engine accepts the IR command and works with it. This would be useful to know if the IR version of the command is implemented at all or if it is just being used wrong.
We have already tried this command, you kindly provided it earlier in the thread, when we only had the IR command, before we got the discrete IP command.

So I've already comfirmed that the following emulation works in iRule to select Frame Adapt HDR: \x21\x89\x01\x52\x43\x37\x33\x45\x43\x0A

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post #19448 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Manni01 View Post
We have already tried this command, you kindly provided it earlier in the thread, when we only had the IR command, before we got the discrete IP command.

So I've already comfirmed that the following emulation works in iRule to select Frame Adapt HDR: \x21\x89\x01\x52\x43\x37\x33\x45\x43\x0A
Well there we go. @scoochie what is your pronto repeat set to? You may need to enable 2x or 5x repeat for the command to make it work. But it appears the JVC FW does properly react to this command.

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post #19449 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Well there we go. @scoochie what is your pronto repeat set to? You may need to enable 2x or 5x repeat for the command to make it work. But it appears the JVC FW does properly react to this command.
My repeat is set to 3 in irule. I will try increasing to higher and report back when I get a chance to test it out later.

EDIT: It works!!! Repeat at 5 did the trick in my case. Thanks again for all your help Manni and markmon1
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post #19450 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 06:42 PM
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I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
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post #19451 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
How big is your screen? Is it 16:9 or 2.35? Are you in a light controlled room?

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post #19452 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 06:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
An absolutely huge difference in HDR compared to your RS400.
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post #19453 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
How big is your screen? Is it 16:9 or 2.35? Are you in a light controlled room?
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post #19454 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
126" 16:9 Stewart StudioTek 100. Room is totally light controlled.
Agree with Mike’s comments...huge improvement...unsure why your rs400 looks washed out tho...are you confident in your current settings?
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post #19455 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
An absolutely huge difference in HDR compared to your RS400.
Thanks for the feedback. Since the HDR on my 400 is so bad I get that there might be a huge difference. But how much of a difference between the 400's SDR and the NX7's HDR? I play all my movies (ripped BluRays) via Kodi running on an Nvidia Shield if it matters.
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post #19456 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
Are you using the BT.2020 colour profile with HDR? Some earlier units did not come with it, in which case you have to download and install it. Without it the colours will definitely be pale and muted.

Also see my suggested settings for the gamma:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56989078

JVC DLA-NX7; Denon AVR-X3400H; HD Fury Vertex; ATV4K; Fire TV Cube
JVC Projector Bright Curves; Optimizing HDR;
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post #19457 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by asharma View Post
Agree with Mike’s comments...huge improvement...unsure why your rs400 looks washed out tho...are you confident in your current settings?
I had ChadB calibrate it around 3 years ago and I use his setting for HDR. He even commented after calibration that he couldn't get it right and wasn't sure why. I wasn't too concerned since I didn't have much content at the time.
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post #19458 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Dominic Chan View Post
Are you using the BT.2020 colour profile with HDR? Some earlier units did not come with it, in which case you have to download and install it. Without it the colours will definitely be pale and muted.

Also see my suggested settings for the gamma:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/24-di...l#post56989078
It's been a while since I tried it and I don't remember off the top of my head. I know Chad made 3 presets on ther projector: SDR, SDR bright and HDR. I don't remember everything attached to each. I'll check it out when I get a chance.
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post #19459 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
I made this exact upgrade earlier this month, and posted my thoughts here:

Upgrade from RS400 to NX7 - My Experience

In a few words, there has been a substantial improvement, actually more than I was anticipating.
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post #19460 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Since the HDR on my 400 is so bad I get that there might be a huge difference. But how much of a difference between the 400's SDR and the NX7's HDR? I play all my movies (ripped BluRays) via Kodi running on an Nvidia Shield if it matters.
In SDR it will be much closer, but I would still say NX7 for the win. If that was a 500,520, or 540 that would be a different story.

Quote:
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I had ChadB calibrate it around 3 years ago and I use his setting for HDR. He even commented after calibration that he couldn't get it right and wasn't sure why. I wasn't too concerned since I didn't have much content at the time.
I bet a touch up calibration is in order to see what you have going on over there.
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post #19461 of 20384 Old 11-21-2019, 09:37 PM
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Three years ago is before Arve curves though I think, so just a tweaked Gamma D?
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post #19462 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 04:45 AM
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NX7 with Panamorph DCR Lens

I have now added the Panamorph DCR to my NX7, and am very happy with the result. Definitely brighter, looks great. I will confess, I haven't done the formal testing to get with and without comparisons, though. Because it takes time to remove the lens, zoom to re-frame, etc., there is no way to instantly A/B them, as I could with the RS400/NX7 comparison. And I'd have to break out my Tripod and DSLR to get valid photographs to illustrate the differences. But with my large (160" diagonal 2.35:1) screen, I need all the brightness I can, so for me this is the way to go.

Thanks to the work of markmon1, Manni01 and others, I have been able to generate the IR Codes for Anamorphic C and D, and programmed them into my Control4 system. I then assigned them to number buttons on my Control4 remote (which aren't used for anything in my theater anyway). So I have instant access to both.

When I was using the Zoom method for scope content with my RS400, it was a pain, and sometimes quite difficult, to see the menu options when starting a disc, as they were off-screen onto the screen's black frame and surrounding black velvet. Now, I just hit the button for Anamorphic D, see the full image in 16:9, make whatever choices I need to select, and instantly go back to Anamorphic C to watch. Sweet!

I remember people talking about the 'zoom' function on their Oppo 203's, which I think provided this capability, and sounded great. I now have this same functionality with my UB820.

Just another side benefit to having the DCR lens, in addition to the added brightness and pixel density.
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post #19463 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by DLCPhoto View Post
I have now added the Panamorph DCR to my NX7, and am very happy with the result. Definitely brighter, looks great. I will confess, I haven't done the formal testing to get with and without comparisons, though. Because it takes time to remove the lens, zoom to re-frame, etc., there is no way to instantly A/B them, as I could with the RS400/NX7 comparison. And I'd have to break out my Tripod and DSLR to get valid photographs to illustrate the differences. But with my large (160" diagonal 2.35:1) screen, I need all the brightness I can, so for me this is the way to go.

Thanks to the work of markmon1, Manni01 and others, I have been able to generate the IR Codes for Anamorphic C and D, and programmed them into my Control4 system. I then assigned them to number buttons on my Control4 remote (which aren't used for anything in my theater anyway). So I have instant access to both.

When I was using the Zoom method for scope content with my RS400, it was a pain, and sometimes quite difficult, to see the menu options when starting a disc, as they were off-screen onto the screen's black frame and surrounding black velvet. Now, I just hit the button for Anamorphic D, see the full image in 16:9, make whatever choices I need to select, and instantly go back to Anamorphic C to watch. Sweet!

I remember people talking about the 'zoom' function on their Oppo 203's, which I think provided this capability, and sounded great. I now have this same functionality with my UB820.

Just another side benefit to having the DCR lens, in addition to the added brightness and pixel density.
Well, Don, it seems that the lengthy (often angst filled) quest for your Holy Grail may finally have reached its conclusion. Enjoy it for many years to come!
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post #19464 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 06:39 AM
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I made a similar upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
I have a JVC RS400U and it's projects a really nice image but HDR just never looks right. The colors are all pale and muted. I've been reading about the NX7 for a while and, frankly, have been lusting over it. My question is how much of a real world difference can I expect if I upgrade? I've read that projectors aren't bright enough for good HDR and also read the Eshift can be close to 4k. With that, would the NX7 be an obvious upgrade? Has anybody gone from the RS400 to the NX7?

I hate to drop the coin and not notice much of a difference.
RockDawg, I went from an RS-520 (e-shift) to the RS-2000 (same as the NX7) and though I was hesitant about what improvement I would see, here is my experience...

First, some info about my setup:
  • Not a totally light-controlled room. Dark grey walls and carpet, white ceiling, dark wood furniture and all indirect lighting (sconces and recessed cans)
  • Screen: SI Black Diamond 106" zero-edge with 1.4 gain
  • Throw distance: ~13'
  • Seating distance: ~16'

First off -- did I see an increase in resolution with 4K vs. e-shift? Yes definitely! Even at my seating distance of ~16 ft I instantly noticed the improvement. And that was on 1080p content that had been upscaled to 4k! Like many others on here have said the picture overall looks very 'calm' and 'stable'.

Secondly -- with all the difficulties of HDR would my projector setup be bright enough to really have decent HDR? YES, definitely! I just had my projector calibrated (by Chad B - HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!) and he said that I had roughly 125 nits to work with in my setup, due to my high gain screen and relatively short throw distance. Of course I watch HDR content in a totally darkened room with lights out but it has great shadow detail and bright highlights with accurate color now. And that is on LOW lamp!

Third -- I'm no expert and don't know how to adjust my settings to make HDR look decent, but with the new DTM firmware (and also the help of calibration) HDR is for me 'set it and forget it'. No fiddling or wondering if it looks right or could be better.

I noticed a big step up in quality when I first fired up my RS-2000, but HDR was DRASTICALLY improved with the new firmware. And now that it's calibrated, any SDR or HDR content I watch is so good that can't imagine not being satisfied with the picture for a long time to come!

Everyone's budget and expectations are different, but when upgrading I was able to recoup some of the cost by selling my RS-520.

JVC RS-2000 | SI Black Diamond ZE 106" | Yamaha RX-A3060 | Oppo BDP-103 | Panasonic UB9000 | AppleTV 4K | Wharfedale Reva-4, Reva-2, Reva-C | HSU VTF3 MK5

Last edited by jrlnc; 11-22-2019 at 07:25 AM.
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post #19465 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 06:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockDawg View Post
Thanks for the feedback. Since the HDR on my 400 is so bad I get that there might be a huge difference. But how much of a difference between the 400's SDR and the NX7's HDR? I play all my movies (ripped BluRays) via Kodi running on an Nvidia Shield if it matters.
The NX7/RS2000 has a better lens, better contrast and native 4k panel. Pretty obvious that the NX7/RS2000 will throw the better image, even with SDR. On top of that, the NX7/RS2000 has better lens memory and more features. Everybody that I know that has compared side by side, NX7/RS2000 vs RS540 or RS640 has picked the NX7/RS2000 as the better projector. The RS400 can't compete with the 540 or 640, so no chance against the NX7/RS2000.

Added
The lens is the same design, but manufacturing tolerances were tightened up and quality control improved. So the lens give a slight improvement in sharpness, particularly edge to edge sharpness.
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Last edited by Mike Garrett; 11-22-2019 at 07:47 AM.
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post #19466 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 07:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrlnc View Post
I noticed a big step up in quality when I first fired up my RS-2000, but HDR was DRASTICALLY improved with the new firmware. And now that it's calibrated, any SDR or HDR content I watch is so good that can't imagine not being satisfied with the picture for a long time to come!
Question: has Chad B. calibrated your RS2000 since the new DTM firmware update? If so, did he simply calibrate the PJ for HDR10 (in order to use DTM) or did he provide you with special gamma curves for HDR material and recommend not using the new DTM capability?

JVC NX7, Yamaha RX-A3080 (2 discrete 7.2.4 speaker layouts: Dolby Atmos & DTS:X), Panasonic UB820, Panasonic UB420, Oppo 103D, ATV4K, Roku Ultra, TiVo Bolt Vox, Vandersteen Model 3 Signatures & VCC-1 Signature, Atlantic Technology (side, rear, front height & overhead) surrounds, SVS SB-2000 (2), Clark Synthesis Tactile Bass Transducers (2), Polk PSW-12
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post #19467 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 07:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
Question: has Chad B. calibrated your RS2000 since the new DTM firmware update? If so, did he simply calibrate the PJ for HDR10 (in order to use DTM) or did he provide you with special gamma curves for HDR material and recommend not using the new DTM capability?
Yes, Chad B calibrated it after the DTM firmware update. My defaults for the HDR mode is:
  • Frame by Frame
  • Medium
  • Color Filter: WIDE

In all my modes (SDR, SDR Bright and HDR) he recommended keeping DI OFF, which I do and I'm still very satisfied with the contrast.

JVC RS-2000 | SI Black Diamond ZE 106" | Yamaha RX-A3060 | Oppo BDP-103 | Panasonic UB9000 | AppleTV 4K | Wharfedale Reva-4, Reva-2, Reva-C | HSU VTF3 MK5
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post #19468 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 07:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrlnc View Post
Yes, Chad B calibrated it after the DTM firmware update. My defaults for the HDR mode is:
  • Frame by Frame
  • Medium
  • Color Filter: WIDE

In all my modes (SDR, SDR Bright and HDR) he recommended keeping DI OFF, which I do and I'm still very satisfied with the contrast.
Thanks, good to know! He calibrated my NX7 in firmware using the Panasonic/JVC curves as well as for HDR10. I use those same DTM parameters as you, but I'm curious as to why he's discouraged you from using the DI. I use DI1 for all user modes without problems. BTW, for DTM is have the iris set at -4 and LOW lamp for my 16x9, 110", 1.3 gain screen. Where did he set your iris and lamp for HDR10?
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JVC NX7, Yamaha RX-A3080 (2 discrete 7.2.4 speaker layouts: Dolby Atmos & DTS:X), Panasonic UB820, Panasonic UB420, Oppo 103D, ATV4K, Roku Ultra, TiVo Bolt Vox, Vandersteen Model 3 Signatures & VCC-1 Signature, Atlantic Technology (side, rear, front height & overhead) surrounds, SVS SB-2000 (2), Clark Synthesis Tactile Bass Transducers (2), Polk PSW-12
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post #19469 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrlnc View Post
Yes, Chad B calibrated it after the DTM firmware update. My defaults for the HDR mode is:
  • Frame by Frame
  • Medium
  • Color Filter: WIDE

In all my modes (SDR, SDR Bright and HDR) he recommended keeping DI OFF, which I do and I'm still very satisfied with the contrast.
Thanks, good to know! He calibrated my NX7 in firmware using the Panasonic/JVC curves as well as for HDR10. I use those same DTM parameters as you, but I'm curious as to why he's discouraged you from using the DI. I use DI1 for all user modes without problems. BTW, for DTM is have the iris set at -4 and LOW lamp for my 16x9, 110", 1.3 gain screen. Where did he set your iris and lamp for HDR10?
Very odd as I have heard the DI works really well. And with the viewing I did on the NX7 i did not notice the DI.

I guess that’s another advantage of the DTM for MadVR in the way that I can keep my iris set much lower and use the DI without issue on my X790.

I went from having my iris set at -4 for HDR material that I was playing though my Shield with static curves to -12 with material playing through MadVR on my PC. And with MadVR the picture is just way better and brighter on darker lit scenes.

How does the DTM on the Lumagen work. Does it tone map it similar to MadVR or to the JVC DTM? Are you able to run the DI much lower like MadVR or higher like JVC’s DTM?
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post #19470 of 20384 Old 11-22-2019, 08:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docrog View Post
Thanks, good to know! He calibrated my NX7 in firmware using the Panasonic/JVC curves as well as for HDR10. I use those same DTM parameters as you, but I'm curious as to why he's discouraged you from using the DI. I use DI1 for all user modes without problems. BTW, for DTM is have the iris set at -4 and LOW lamp for my 16x9, 110", 1.3 gain screen. Where did he set your iris and lamp for HDR10?
For HDR10, Lamp=LOW and IRIS=0, if I recall correctly. I need to check when I get home.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coxy2416 View Post
Very odd as I have heard the DI works really well. And with the viewing I did on the NX7 i did not notice the DI.

I guess that’s another advantage of the DTM for MadVR in the way that I can keep my iris set much lower and use the DI without issue on my X790.

I went from having my iris set at -4 for HDR material that I was playing though my Shield with static curves to -12 with material playing through MadVR on my PC. And with MadVR the picture is just way better and brighter on darker lit scenes.

How does the DTM on the Lumagen work. Does it tone map it similar to MadVR or to the JVC DTM? Are you able to run the DI much lower like MadVR or higher like JVC’s DTM?
Well, Chad B said he preferred it OFF, but it wasn't wrong to turn it on. He said he didn't notice much difference between AUTO1 and AUTO2.

I concur that the DI is much better now. It added some perceived contrast but I could see it constantly pumping on the RS-520. And that was annoying.

When I at first used it on the RS-2000, I never actually noticed it working. I may go back to turning it ON again and seeing how I like it.
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