Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 787 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #23581 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BBLV View Post
Can anyone provide an exact measurement for this opening in front of the lens? I'm trying to finish my hush box before my NX7 arrives next week and am going to route an opening in the front of the box to this diameter with a matching 45 degree chamfer where the outside of this opening will seal against a gasket. I'm guessing it's about 7.75" based on the basic dimensions provided in the manual. Thanks in advance!


Why don’t you just use Edmunds optical glass and seal your hush box properly! Plus that would make it easier to move/ service your projector.


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post #23582 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by blake View Post
Why don’t you just use Edmunds optical glass and seal your hush box properly! Plus that would make it easier to move/ service your projector.


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Do you guys completely enclose the projector or leave some opening for the air to flow in and out?


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post #23583 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
Do you guys completely enclose the projector or leave some opening for the air to flow in and out?


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You definitely need some type of ventilation to prevent overheating. The hush box I will be building for rs4500 (which will run in high laser and much hotter than nx 7/9) is totally sealed and vented with a 6” duct with inline fan to an adjacent room (the supply is a passive 6” duct).


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post #23584 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by blake View Post
Why don’t you just use Edmunds optical glass and seal your hush box properly! Plus that would make it easier to move/ service your projector.


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Even Edmunds glass only passes about 95% of the light and it is not apochromatic therefore it causes a slight amount of chromatic aberration. Why spend all that money on a high light output projector with a high end lens and then cover it with a piece of glass that distorts and reduces light output when it isn't necessary.

You don't need to completely enclose the projector to reduce the noise. You can leave an opening for the lens assembly and provide some sort of seal around the hole and it works great.
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post #23585 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:13 AM
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If enclosing the projector or putting it into a separate cabinet, what kind of remote IR repeater do you need ?
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post #23586 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by jj-34 View Post
If enclosing the projector or putting it into a separate cabinet, what kind of remote IR repeater do you need ?
Any kind - Amazon has them. I use something like this ( for my other gear too ) -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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post #23587 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:39 AM
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Any kind - Amazon has them. I use something like this ( for my other gear too ) -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
I see, I was afraid that some sort of special wiring to fit the projector was required.
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post #23588 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake View Post
You definitely need some type of ventilation to prevent overheating. The hush box I will be building for rs4500 (which will run in high laser and much hotter than nx 7/9) is totally sealed and vented with a 6” duct with inline fan to an adjacent room (the supply is a passive 6” duct).
Nice that is a big supply of air You have any pics of your hush box? Can you take some?

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I see, I was afraid that some sort of special wiring to fit the projector was required.
You building a hush box?
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post #23589 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:51 AM
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Nice that is a big supply of air You have any pics of your hush box? Can you take some?

You building a hush box?
Wish I had a 6" duct... My 4" is feeling inferior now!
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post #23590 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:57 AM
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I've found that my Dynamic Tone Mapping results have changed a little as I've put more hours on the lamp.

My screen is probably a little smaller than many on this forum - 8' wide 2.35:1. It's the right size for my room and seating distance. I've been getting very good results with the projector in Low Lamp all the time, with DTM on High for HDR. The louder fan noise and raised black levels of High Lamp mode are very bothersome in this room.

I only had a couple hundred hours of use when the DTM firmware was first released, and at that time I would swap the DTM setting back and forth from Auto to High depending on content. On some material (a standout was Netflix's The Spy), the High setting visibly clipped whites while the Auto setting (which typically defaults to "Medium") did not.

I'm at about 500 hours on the lamp now, and I leave DTM on High almost all the time. I even went back to a particularly problematic episode of The Spy, and the clipping that bothered me before was not evident. Flipping between them, Auto might still look slightly better for that show, but I wouldn't have been bothered enough to notice anything wrong had I started watching in High and the image looked like it does now.

I'm very pleased with the HDR image quality I'm getting from the projector now.
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post #23591 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 11:59 AM
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We need more pictures of hush boxes. I'm planning on building one as well. I was going the route of Edmunds optical class in the front port and an AC Infinity T6 pulling air out the top front of the hush box and 6" duct going into the top back. Do you think that is enough ventilation or would another AC infinity S6 blowing air in the back be needed? I was thinking of internal box dimensions of 13.5" high by 30" long by 27" wide. Does that seem about right?
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post #23592 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
Even Edmunds glass only passes about 95% of the light and it is not apochromatic therefore it causes a slight amount of chromatic aberration. Why spend all that money on a high light output projector with a high end lens and then cover it with a piece of glass that distorts and reduces light output when it isn't necessary.



You don't need to completely enclose the projector to reduce the noise. You can leave an opening for the lens assembly and provide some sort of seal around the hole and it works great.

Major studios and major cinemas use port glass behind projectors. ACO Opticlear has 99% light transmission on their technical spec sheet. This is better than Edmunds optical that some people recommend - perhaps that’s where you get the 5% light loss. Not sure about its chromatic aberration - if you are worried just calibrate your projector after its mounted behind the glass to correct for this.

If you are going to the trouble of making a hush box, probably better to seal it well. That said, if your “lens tube “ is well acoustically insulated it should work well.


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post #23593 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommarra View Post
Do you guys completely enclose the projector or leave some opening for the air to flow in and out?


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I have the back open in my closet - held ajar with a hook when running.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/29-wh...l#post58887750
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post #23594 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by blake View Post
Major studios and major cinemas use port glass behind projectors. ACO Opticlear has 99% light transmission on their technical spec sheet. This is better than Edmunds optical that some people recommend - perhaps that’s where you get the 5% light loss. Not sure about its chromatic aberration - if you are worried just calibrate your projector after its mounted behind the glass to correct for this.

If you are going to the trouble of making a hush box, probably better to seal it well. That said, if your “lens tube “ is well acoustically insulated it should work well.

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You can't correct for chromatic aberration with a calibration because it is a spreading of the different frequencies of light. Calibration can't fix that. You will get color fringing on highlights and bright scenes.

Also you don't need to cover the lens assembly to silence the projector. Many people including myself, have their lens assembly exposed and very little noise propagates through the opening. I have a small foam seal that surrounds the opening and my projector lens assembly butts up against the seal. I can't hear anything from my seated position through the opening.

I just don't see the need for placing another piece of glass that reduces light, and adds to chromatic aberration when it isn't necessary. Not that adding a high quality glass port would make a substantial difference to the image quality but why do it at all if it doesn't make much difference regarding projector noise.
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post #23595 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 12:35 PM
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All HDR sources
Not exactly: no HLG
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post #23596 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by blake View Post
Major studios and major cinemas use port glass behind projectors. ACO Opticlear has 99% light transmission on their technical spec sheet. This is better than Edmunds optical that some people recommend - perhaps that’s where you get the 5% light loss. Not sure about its chromatic aberration - if you are worried just calibrate your projector after its mounted behind the glass to correct for this.

If you are going to the trouble of making a hush box, probably better to seal it well. That said, if your “lens tube “ is well acoustically insulated it should work well.


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One thing to think about - if you plan on using an anamorphic lens, I'd skip the port glass. Too much glass in front of the lens.
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post #23597 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 01:49 PM
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Not exactly: no HLG
OK, all HDR10 content. I didn't think that HLG was relevant to what he'd asked.

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post #23598 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 02:01 PM
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I'm looking for help, please for an issue I don't think I've read about before. I have an August build NX7 and I've suddenly got what can best be described as a "broken color".
I've been calibrating with Chromapure over the last week and as of a few days ago I could get the color red to be about 99% fully saturated, but as of yesterday the DeltaE on the
CIE chart suddenly has between a -6% and -8% error for saturation. This is definitely able to be seen by eye, too, as the 100% red screen looks deep red/orange now and not like a deep/strong red at all, as before. (I mention this
so as to eliminate the i1Display Pro meter readings, which have been reliable enough.) On my computer, the Chromapure logo has its normal green, blue & red triangles and on the StudioTek 130 they always looked that way, too, but on the screen now, the triangles are green, blue & orange.
Red has always been problematic for my unit, as if I close down the manual iris more than -12, I get a lightness error that can't be corrected and if set it to -11 or less, red saturation would never be better than -3.5%,
so I'm pretty much stuck at the -12 setting - which is at least fine for screen foot lambert numbers. Trying to increase saturation won't budge, even if you max it out at +30, it doesn't move at all. Magenta has suffered also, but only about half as bad as red, while green, blue, cyan & yellow dial-in perfectly. Also, 25%, 50% & 75% red readings seem to be fine. It's simply that I suddenly can't get red anywhere near 100% saturation now (in the triangle, the red dot is not even close to the 100% red square box) and related to this, hue has become way off, as well. Normally red hue was always set at -2, but now to straighten that out takes -8. (This explains the visually obvious orange tint.) I'm using both the AVS calibration disc, as well as the Chromapure disc and both are consistent.
Now I've checked all settings in the NX7, as well as the Panasonic UB9000 to ensure something isn't set out of whack, but everything is fine. The NX7 settings, specifically are: Brightness -3, while color, tint & sharpness are all at default 0.
I'm using User 1 profile with Custom 1 color and 6500K and 2.3 gamma. (By the way, this is all relative to BT.709 HD and I haven't done any calibrating for 4K.) All motion options are off. I need to set the unit to super white, otherwise all colors clip and contrast clips just about everything, per Spears & Munsil disc. (Probably because green gain is really high before I lower it.) The bulb has approximately 1,300 hours on it and has always been used on "low", even for 4K.
Oddly enough, I can get grayscale very well balanced and a nice flat gamma, but that red drainage just ruins everything, as it's definitely noticeable, not only on the 100% test pattern, but in movies, too.
Do you know what can be done to correct this red shortage? I'd hate to send the projector in for repair due to this issue, as everything else is fine. Is there an adjustment in the service menu that can restore my "normal"
red settings? (I don't want to use the service menu, but just wondering if that's an option.) Would a factory reset help at all?
(I considered posting this on the calibration forum, but it's not a "how to" issue, per se, but more a broken/repair issue.) Reverting back to the out-of-box factory setting of "Natural"/6500K/BT709 with no user menu color corrections does not fix the sudden red shortage, either.
Thank you and sorry for the long post.
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post #23599 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 02:09 PM
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[QUOTE=Cleveland Plasma;59245206]Nice that is a big supply of air You have any pics of your hush box? Can you take some?



Yep , my theater is under construction and will be done in a couple months. I’ll definitely take pictures of the hush box. I had Nyal from acoustic frontiers design it.
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post #23600 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoxieRob View Post
I'm looking for help, please for an issue I don't think I've read about before. I have an August build NX7 and I've suddenly got what can best be described as a "broken color".
I've been calibrating with Chromapure over the last week and as of a few days ago I could get the color red to be about 99% fully saturated, but as of yesterday the DeltaE on the
CIE chart suddenly has between a -6% and -8% error for saturation. This is definitely able to be seen by eye, too, as the 100% red screen looks deep red/orange now and not like a deep/strong red at all, as before. (I mention this
so as to eliminate the i1Display Pro meter readings, which have been reliable enough.) On my computer, the Chromapure logo has its normal green, blue & red triangles and on the StudioTek 130 they always looked that way, too, but on the screen now, the triangles are green, blue & orange.
Red has always been problematic for my unit, as if I close down the manual iris more than -12, I get a lightness error that can't be corrected and if set it to -11 or less, red saturation would never be better than -3.5%,
so I'm pretty much stuck at the -12 setting - which is at least fine for screen foot lambert numbers. Trying to increase saturation won't budge, even if you max it out at +30, it doesn't move at all. Magenta has suffered also, but only about half as bad as red, while green, blue, cyan & yellow dial-in perfectly. Also, 25%, 50% & 75% red readings seem to be fine. It's simply that I suddenly can't get red anywhere near 100% saturation now (in the triangle, the red dot is not even close to the 100% red square box) and related to this, hue has become way off, as well. Normally red hue was always set at -2, but now to straighten that out takes -8. (This explains the visually obvious orange tint.) I'm using both the AVS calibration disc, as well as the Chromapure disc and both are consistent.
Now I've checked all settings in the NX7, as well as the Panasonic UB9000 to ensure something isn't set out of whack, but everything is fine. The NX7 settings, specifically are: Brightness -3, while color, tint & sharpness are all at default 0.
I'm using User 1 profile with Custom 1 color and 6500K and 2.3 gamma. (By the way, this is all relative to BT.709 HD and I haven't done any calibrating for 4K.) All motion options are off. I need to set the unit to super white, otherwise all colors clip and contrast clips just about everything, per Spears & Munsil disc. (Probably because green gain is really high before I lower it.) The bulb has approximately 1,300 hours on it and has always been used on "low", even for 4K.
Oddly enough, I can get grayscale very well balanced and a nice flat gamma, but that red drainage just ruins everything, as it's definitely noticeable, not only on the 100% test pattern, but in movies, too.
Do you know what can be done to correct this red shortage? I'd hate to send the projector in for repair due to this issue, as everything else is fine. Is there an adjustment in the service menu that can restore my "normal"
red settings? (I don't want to use the service menu, but just wondering if that's an option.) Would a factory reset help at all?
(I considered posting this on the calibration forum, but it's not a "how to" issue, per se, but more a broken/repair issue.) Reverting back to the out-of-box factory setting of "Natural"/6500K/BT709 with no user menu color corrections does not fix the sudden red shortage, either.
Thank you and sorry for the long post.
I'm sure a calibrator would have some more expert advice, but have you played with warmer color temps? My NX7 has a red deficit in HDR cured by reducing the green and blue gain to compensate (and some on offset too). SDR is fine though.

I'd say your best bet is to hire a calibrator or you might even try a bulb swap.

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post #23601 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregCh View Post
Even Edmunds glass only passes about 95% of the light and it is not apochromatic therefore it causes a slight amount of chromatic aberration. Why spend all that money on a high light output projector with a high end lens and then cover it with a piece of glass that distorts and reduces light output when it isn't necessary.

You don't need to completely enclose the projector to reduce the noise. You can leave an opening for the lens assembly and provide some sort of seal around the hole and it works great.
Quote:
Originally Posted by blake View Post
Major studios and major cinemas use port glass behind projectors. ACO Opticlear has 99% light transmission on their technical spec sheet. This is better than Edmunds optical that some people recommend - perhaps that’s where you get the 5% light loss. Not sure about its chromatic aberration - if you are worried just calibrate your projector after its mounted behind the glass to correct for this.

If you are going to the trouble of making a hush box, probably better to seal it well. That said, if your “lens tube “ is well acoustically insulated it should work well.
I have an a-lens so a lens tube is not an option... but I did several tests with my Edmunds on/off & I could never see a difference with light drop or chromatic aberration. I ran various QBF tests and single, double and triple RGB pixel tests with and none showed any chromatic aberration. My theory is the angle of the glass matters for those. Just a theory that I cannot verify.

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Originally Posted by baronzemo78 View Post
We need more pictures of hush boxes. I'm planning on building one as well. I was going the route of Edmunds optical class in the front port and an AC Infinity T6 pulling air out the top front of the hush box and 6" duct going into the top back. Do you think that is enough ventilation or would another AC infinity S6 blowing air in the back be needed? I was thinking of internal box dimensions of 13.5" high by 30" long by 27" wide. Does that seem about right?
I would suggest doing what I did, first build one out of cardboard boxes and see how the projector fits. I think you will find that you will need a bit more room than that. Especially if you want to work on the projector easily, such as to change filter, lamp, or manual button settings. I used a ACInfinity T6 and it is more than capable to keep the entire box cool.
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post #23602 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 03:21 PM
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I have an a-lens so a lens tube is not an
I would suggest doing what I did, first build one out of cardboard boxes and see how the projector fits. I think you will find that you will need a bit more room than that. Especially if you want to work on the projector easily, such as to change filter, lamp, or manual button settings. I used a ACInfinity T6 and it is more than capable to keep the entire box cool.
Thanks Killroy, I have seen your hush box and it looks great. I'm still finishing my basement theater and don't have an NX7 yet, just trying to plan for one. What are your dimensions? Unfortunately my hush box will have to be below an HVAC soffit so it will be really low. I'm planning to put a sofa table under it so people don't smash their heads. I don't have a lot of room to make the box bigger. Do you think it should be taller or just bigger overall?
Thanks.
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post #23603 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoxieRob View Post
I'm looking for help, please for an issue I don't think I've read about before. I have an August build NX7 and I've suddenly got what can best be described as a "broken color".
I've been calibrating with Chromapure over the last week and as of a few days ago I could get the color red to be about 99% fully saturated, but as of yesterday the DeltaE on the
CIE chart suddenly has between a -6% and -8% error for saturation. This is definitely able to be seen by eye, too, as the 100% red screen looks deep red/orange now and not like a deep/strong red at all, as before. (I mention this
so as to eliminate the i1Display Pro meter readings, which have been reliable enough.) On my computer, the Chromapure logo has its normal green, blue & red triangles and on the StudioTek 130 they always looked that way, too, but on the screen now, the triangles are green, blue & orange.
Red has always been problematic for my unit, as if I close down the manual iris more than -12, I get a lightness error that can't be corrected and if set it to -11 or less, red saturation would never be better than -3.5%,
so I'm pretty much stuck at the -12 setting - which is at least fine for screen foot lambert numbers. Trying to increase saturation won't budge, even if you max it out at +30, it doesn't move at all. Magenta has suffered also, but only about half as bad as red, while green, blue, cyan & yellow dial-in perfectly. Also, 25%, 50% & 75% red readings seem to be fine. It's simply that I suddenly can't get red anywhere near 100% saturation now (in the triangle, the red dot is not even close to the 100% red square box) and related to this, hue has become way off, as well. Normally red hue was always set at -2, but now to straighten that out takes -8. (This explains the visually obvious orange tint.) I'm using both the AVS calibration disc, as well as the Chromapure disc and both are consistent.
Now I've checked all settings in the NX7, as well as the Panasonic UB9000 to ensure something isn't set out of whack, but everything is fine. The NX7 settings, specifically are: Brightness -3, while color, tint & sharpness are all at default 0.
I'm using User 1 profile with Custom 1 color and 6500K and 2.3 gamma. (By the way, this is all relative to BT.709 HD and I haven't done any calibrating for 4K.) All motion options are off. I need to set the unit to super white, otherwise all colors clip and contrast clips just about everything, per Spears & Munsil disc. (Probably because green gain is really high before I lower it.) The bulb has approximately 1,300 hours on it and has always been used on "low", even for 4K.
Oddly enough, I can get grayscale very well balanced and a nice flat gamma, but that red drainage just ruins everything, as it's definitely noticeable, not only on the 100% test pattern, but in movies, too.
Do you know what can be done to correct this red shortage? I'd hate to send the projector in for repair due to this issue, as everything else is fine. Is there an adjustment in the service menu that can restore my "normal"
red settings? (I don't want to use the service menu, but just wondering if that's an option.) Would a factory reset help at all?
(I considered posting this on the calibration forum, but it's not a "how to" issue, per se, but more a broken/repair issue.) Reverting back to the out-of-box factory setting of "Natural"/6500K/BT709 with no user menu color corrections does not fix the sudden red shortage, either.
Thank you and sorry for the long post.
Have you calibrated color using JVC autocal?
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post #23604 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 03:36 PM
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Thanks Killroy, I have seen your hush box and it looks great. I'm still finishing my basement theater and don't have an NX7 yet, just trying to plan for one. What are your dimensions? Unfortunately my hush box will have to be below an HVAC soffit so it will be really low. I'm planning to put a sofa table under it so people don't smash their heads. I don't have a lot of room to make the box bigger. Do you think it should be taller or just bigger overall?
Thanks.
Below are the CADs and the measurement specs for my build. If you have seen it then you know it is freaking HUGE! Probably way bigger than it ever needed to be. But that also allows me to have plenty of room for all my other stuff that is being housed inside of the box (network, IR, smart home stuff, power strip, fan controllers, etc). Also, if I ever have to get a bigger projector I do not think I need to build a bigger one (yes, I planned ahead for an upgrade).

If I had to do it all over again I would not change the size but the method of building it. I did change several things after the initial build but not the actual size. I stand by my decision to go big.
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post #23605 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by baronzemo78 View Post
Do you think it should be taller or just bigger overall?
Thanks.
Forgot to answer this part...

You need to allow room and/or access room on the side where the lamp door is and at the rear for the filter. If you do not plan to have an a-lens then you can get away with just 6" in the front if you have active exhaust and only a couple of inches in the back if you have active air supply intake but then again you need to have access for that filter door.

So as along as you allow for some method for you to reach the lamp door, you could probably build it right up to the side....with the previous caveats.
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post #23606 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
Have you calibrated color using JVC autocal?
No Mike, I haven't, because JVC autocal doesn't support the i1Display Pro, does it? I wanted to avoid buying another meter if possible. I'm fully capable of calibrating with Chromapure, myself, as I've done it many times, but this time I'm being limited, physically by this red saturation lack of availability. I've never been in there, but I should think that the service menu must have some kind of adjustment for red in it. It doesn't seem like (at least I haven't read about other people doing it) it should be necessary to send the projector in for repair of the loss of red. As I'd mentioned, up until yesterday, the supply of red saturation was always weak, but I could eventually get the saturation error just under -2%, so things worked out O.K..
Does the JVC autocal process provide a means by which the saturation of red to 100% can be enhanced, that all of the tools/menus/settings that I currently use cannot reach? If that was true, I suppose then it would warrant justifying a second meter. I just don't understand the red saturation loss at the 100% level that occurred in one day. If JVC techs were to receive my unit for repair and could simply pop into the service menu to bump something up (or down) - that's what I'd like to avoid. As much as I don't want to visit the service menu, an easy fix should be in reach is all I'm thinking and I'm hoping to fix it myself.
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post #23607 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoxieRob View Post
No Mike, I haven't, because JVC autocal doesn't support the i1Display Pro, does it? I wanted to avoid buying another meter if possible. I'm fully capable of calibrating with Chromapure, myself, as I've done it many times, but this time I'm being limited, physically by this red saturation lack of availability. I've never been in there, but I should think that the service menu must have some kind of adjustment for red in it. It doesn't seem like (at least I haven't read about other people doing it) it should be necessary to send the projector in for repair of the loss of red. As I'd mentioned, up until yesterday, the supply of red saturation was always weak, but I could eventually get the saturation error just under -2%, so things worked out O.K..
Does the JVC autocal process provide a means by which the saturation of red to 100% can be enhanced, that all of the tools/menus/settings that I currently use cannot reach? If that was true, I suppose then it would warrant justifying a second meter. I just don't understand the red saturation loss at the 100% level that occurred in one day. If JVC techs were to receive my unit for repair and could simply pop into the service menu to bump something up (or down) - that's what I'd like to avoid. As much as I don't want to visit the service menu, an easy fix should be in reach is all I'm thinking and I'm hoping to fix it myself.
I was only asking, because if you did, I was going to say to reload the INIT file.
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post #23608 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 07:45 PM
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Kris Deering G4 review

Hi, has this been published yet?

Video:JVC N7 Sony 85” 900F Sony 55” 900F
Audio: Paradigm Prestige 95, 55C, 15b, 25s, Dual SVS SB3000
Receiver/Amp: Anthem 1120, Emotiva XPA-11 Gen 3 Emotiva XPA-5 Gen 2
Source: Panasonic UB820, Triple black velvet batcave
125" 2.35 Stewart ST100 Tab Tensioned Electric
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post #23609 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 08:56 PM
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Hi, has this been published yet?

You have that St100, a cool cat screen. ..just curious?
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post #23610 of 23741 Old 02-14-2020, 10:20 PM
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i just recently got my RS2000 up and running. While playing HDR content I am seeing a weird issue where the edges of objects are bright white / bright yellow etc. and don’t match the rest of the picture at all. Something is clearly wrong and I am wondering if anyone here knows what it is.

When I pause playback it’s not there, but it’s there and very distracting while playing. I took a video of it with my phone and then took screenshots of the video... I then added arrows to call attention to what I’m talking about.

Anybody else experience this? Know what the fix is?
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