Official JVC RS3000/NX9 - JVC RS2000/NX7/N7 - JVC RS1000/NX5/N5 - Owners Thread - Page 923 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27661 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 08:59 PM
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I thought you permanently moved to an epson because it was good enough?
No mine is in service getting a part replacement. I bought an Epson on the cheap to tie me over. Not sure where you got your Information from

God Bless!
A good way to test your Iris on your projector is on the Spears and Munsil disc. Go to Video processing then select Luminance Loading. Don't stare directly at the lens but on an angle and you can actually see the Iris at work.
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post #27662 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 09:01 PM
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No mine is in service getting a part replacement. I bought an Epson on the cheap to tie me over. Not sure where you got your Information from
I'm not sure where I'm getting it from either, lol. Maybe @woofer mentioned it in another thread. I thought you sent your proejctor in and they decided it was "fine" so they're sending it back as is and you bought an epson and decided it was good enough in the meantime and were returning the JVC. Glad that's not the case.

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post #27663 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post

I don't think anything substantially better is coming in the next year or more. The problem is your room though. There's no point getting a high end projector if you cant even light contol your room. If that's the situation, I'd stick with the DLPs - although right now only JVC and Sony provide true 4K. For games at 4K there's a huge sharpness advantage to true 4K over something like an Epson pixel shifting. Some of the 4k DLPs sport a high enough resolution to be very sharp for 4K games also.

Hi. Thanks for that information. At night, my room is black. I do the majority of my gaming and movie watching at night, though it's not uncommon to do some gaming in day time. I have a Sony 260ES, which with the exception of the colour banding, has been really good. I don't have any issues with the picture.



In NZ the JVC is around $7600 which is pretty up there in my budget, if you are saying I am not going to significantly benefit from a projector like the JVC because of my uncontrolled lighting, is there anything else native 4K suitable for my requirements, that won't have colour banding, that would be cheaper or better suited for me?



Thanks!
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post #27664 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Pultzar View Post
I am viewing the QBF pattern through my PC on my RS3000. The sharpness looks on par with what I have seen others here post. However the 1x1 checkerboard grid has a red tint to it. It even has this when I defocus the image completely. Is this normal? If not, any thoughts on what could cause it? I have not calibrated the projector. The normal image looks fantastic but I'm still curious about this.
Have you tried disabling 8K e-shift?

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post #27665 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
I'm not sure where I'm getting it from either, lol. Maybe @woofer mentioned it in another thread. I thought you sent your proejctor in and they decided it was "fine" so they're sending it back as is and you bought an epson and decided it was good enough in the meantime and were returning the JVC. Glad that's not the case.
No I mentioned Epson Is quite impressive for its price. There just replacing a part so hopefully I should receive my JVC back soon.
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God Bless!
A good way to test your Iris on your projector is on the Spears and Munsil disc. Go to Video processing then select Luminance Loading. Don't stare directly at the lens but on an angle and you can actually see the Iris at work.
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post #27666 of 28586 Old 05-27-2020, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by docrog View Post
Have you tried disabling 8K e-shift?
e-shift actually makes the checkerboard pattern look better but most of the other patterns look worse or weird due to it.

Not sure about real world content though.
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post #27667 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Garrett View Post
I forgot about IP control. Added that to my post. Would have to make hard connection to projector.

... And rs232 control which is simpler to implement (and probably more reliable)


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post #27668 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by networkn View Post
Hi. Thanks for that information. At night, my room is black. I do the majority of my gaming and movie watching at night, though it's not uncommon to do some gaming in day time. I have a Sony 260ES, which with the exception of the colour banding, has been really good. I don't have any issues with the picture.



In NZ the JVC is around $7600 which is pretty up there in my budget, if you are saying I am not going to significantly benefit from a projector like the JVC because of my uncontrolled lighting, is there anything else native 4K suitable for my requirements, that won't have colour banding, that would be cheaper or better suited for me?



Thanks!
Ok if you can get your room totally black at night, then I think the JVC is the way to go. You'll fully benefit from its enhanced contrast as long as you can fully kill the lights. I use my projector 33% games, 33% tv, 32% desktop and music, 1% movies. JVC is great for 4K gaming.

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post #27669 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Ok if you can get your room totally black at night, then I think the JVC is the way to go. You'll fully benefit from its enhanced contrast as long as you can fully kill the lights. I use my projector 33% games, 33% tv, 32% desktop and music, 1% movies. JVC is great for 4K gaming.

It’s just unfortunate it will not support all the gaming goodies that hdmi 2.1 offers for the next gen consoles coming out the end of the year.


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post #27670 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:44 AM
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... And rs232 control which is simpler to implement (and probably more reliable)
RS232 is neither easier to implement nor more reliable when compared to IP control. RS232 is slower and it's a bit more complicated to implement due to requiring admin privileges on Windows to access the com ports. IP control is pretty much superior to RS232 in every way. RS232 is to IP control what fax is to email. Welcome to 2020.

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post #27671 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:50 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
RS232 is neither easier to implement nor more reliable when compared to IP control. RS232 is slower and it's a bit more complicated to implement due to requiring admin privileges on Windows to access the com ports. IP control is pretty much superior to RS232 in every way. RS232 is to IP control what fax is to email. Welcome to 2020.

Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
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post #27672 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 03:51 AM
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Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
As a Control4 user, yes RS232 is a perfectly legitimate choice, and I've found it to be perfectly reliable. I use it to control my Marantz SR7010, and I haven't had any trouble at all with it.

As for RS232 vs IP vs IR control, I don't know if one is universally preferred over the other per se - I think it would depend on the particular device you're controlling, and the quality of the Driver that is used for control.

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post #27673 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 05:55 AM
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Hi Everyone-

Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw

I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.

when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.

I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.

There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?

Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?

Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:

SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium

I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?

Thanks in advance.
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post #27674 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by networkn View Post
To be honest, the only dealer near me with one on demo doesn't really know that much about them (in detail per se). There are millions of menu options but yeah, they didn't even know about the tone mapping (which I still don't understand).



I guess, if I am honest, I am right up there near the top of my budget, so if I make the jump, I really want to feel like Colour Banding is definitely not going to be an issue, and that a cheaper model wouldn't suit me almost as well for what I am doing, or that if I wait 3-6 months something substantially better might be along soon. This would be a 3-5 year purchase for me at that price.


I did take a look online at the Optoma gaming ones which are 240hz @ 1080P, though I'd be SUPER happy with 120hz at 4K.



When do companies release their new models, any idea what's in the next gen line up for likely features?


Sorry, lots of questions.
Companies do not talk about what they are going to release. They do not want their competition to know. But since JVC just brought out a whole new line, I do not expect much to change with their offerings, especially with the virus situation. I think that situation is going to affect all AV manufacturers to some extent. As for color banding, that will not be an issue on any of the JVC. Can be an issue on older, Sony projectors. If you are keeping for 3-5 years, the JVC with dynamic tone mapping is the only projector that I would consider. If only short term, then a cheaper projector, like the Epson 5050.
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post #27675 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 06:14 AM
 
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Originally Posted by omarvelous View Post
Hi Everyone-



Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw



I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.



when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.



I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.



There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?



Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?



Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:



SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2

HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium



I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?



Thanks in advance.
Keystone should really never be used. Only if you have no other options. Most walls are not flat . Not noticeable until you try to align a projector with a screen. Start over . First things to do are to take a level to your projector and projector screen and ensure they are level horizontally with Earth. Then watch this video.


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post #27676 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by blake View Post
Not sure about windows.. was referring to automation control systems (crestron , control 4) - isn’t rs232 still preferred and more supported in those systems ?
Every new device comes with IP control. Serial ports are a thing of the past. I think control 4 supports all this stuff so it shouldn't matter as far as that's concerned.

JVC Control - my software for controlling JVC projector via IP control.
Smart Masking - See my automatic smart screen masking system.
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post #27677 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by omarvelous View Post
Hi Everyone-

Finally got my Nx7 ceiling mounted yesterday. This is my first projector and having issues lining up the picture perfectly w/my 16:9 135" Silver ticket screen. The throw distance is 17 feet. I am on the 3.1 fw

I was tinkering with the menus and can't quite figure out how to get the corners in the focus/shift/zoom screen to match the corners of my screen.

when i first powered on the projector, 1/2 of the image was on the ceiling. I initially used the focus/shift/zoom screen to get the image on the screen, but decided to just physically move the projector via my mount to get the image on the screen. I assume that's better.

I adjusted the keystone to -12 which got rid of the angles, but again the image on the focus/shift/zoom screen still is angled and not lined up.

There was an option for Zoom, auto, and native. Which one of these should i pick?

Am i missing an option to display the image in 16:9?

Lastly, when doing initial settings, I was told to use the following:

SDR: user1, 709 color profile, 6500K, and 2.2
HDR: Frame adapt HDR mode, frame by frame, +/- wide filter, hdr level medium

I've adjusted 4k tv's before and I had to be on an hdr source to make adjustments, otherwise it would just adjust the sdr settings. Do i need to be on an sdr source to adjust sdr settings and an hdr source/video to make adjustments for HDR or can I do it all at once?

Thanks in advance.
Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.

JVC Control - my software for controlling JVC projector via IP control.
Smart Masking - See my automatic smart screen masking system.
JVC IR Codes - free online pronto code converter for JVC IR codes.
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post #27678 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 07:33 AM
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Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.
Oh, i figure moving the mount would be better to get the lens dead center, but that makes sense bc my projector is sloped downwards. Will use the lens shift feature when i get home.
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post #27679 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 07:43 AM
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'The Expanse"...... One of the BEST Sci-Fi Series done yet!! and......awesome black levels and detail just top it off!
That is a good series, "Upload" was interesting for sure......
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post #27680 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by markmon1 View Post
Oh yea you made a pretty big mistake using keystone and moving the projector onto the screen. Go turn your keystone off - thats the first step. That is a purely digital change and uses up your resolution to make the image square. Then use the shift and zoom to get the image onto your screen. The way you do it is you build trapezoids and then point to the smaller side. So you use shift to get the image onto the screen, use zoom to zoom it out so you can square it (make it a little smaller than the screen for ease). Then look at the image. If it's a perfect rectangle, you're good to go just shift it down. If it's not a perfect rectangle, then rotate the projector clockwise or counter clockwise until you have a perfect trapezoid. Point the projector psychically towards the small side, use shift to get the image back centered, and evaluate again. Keep repeating until you got a perfect rectangle then zoom back to fill the screen.

As far as aspect mode mode to use, would you use auto, zoom, or native?

Does the HDR settings have to be adjusted when the hdr settings are on screen?


At 17 feet from screen in the back of the room, front or ceiling mount (f) is the correct choice, right?
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post #27681 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by omarvelous View Post
Oh, i figure moving the mount would be better to get the lens dead center, but that makes sense bc my projector is sloped downwards. Will use the lens shift feature when i get home.
The trick is that the optical axis of your projector's lens must be perfectly perpendicular to your screen surface horizontaly and verticaly. Lens shift is there to allow your projector and it's lens optical axis to be installed away from the screen's exact center.
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post #27682 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 08:15 AM
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'The Expanse"...... One of the BEST Sci-Fi Series done yet!! and......awesome black levels and detail just top it off!
I'm still in season one but I have noticed the colors seem muted. I'm streaming off an xbox the uhd version. I wondered if I had something off. I have a Chad-b calibrated 385 es.

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post #27683 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 09:25 AM
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As far as aspect mode mode to use, would you use auto, zoom, or native?

Does the HDR settings have to be adjusted when the hdr settings are on screen?


At 17 feet from screen in the back of the room, front or ceiling mount (f) is the correct choice, right?
You really want your lens exactly perpendicular to your screen.

It doesn't matter if it's above or to the side of the center of your screen, that's what lens shift is for.

For 16:9 you will want to use Native aspect. But for scope content, you can actually set up another installation mode and use Zoom aspect which will get you around 13% more brightness.

You can use this extra brightness to have a brighter picture if you like, or more likely allow you to close down your manual iris further thus increasing your native contrast for scope movies.
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post #27684 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
You really want your lens exactly perpendicular to your screen.

It doesn't matter if it's above or to the side of the center of your screen, that's what lens shift is for.

For 16:9 you will want to use Native aspect. But for scope content, you can actually set up another installation mode and use Zoom aspect which will get you around 13% more brightness.

You can use this extra brightness to have a brighter picture if you like, or more likely allow you to close down your manual iris further thus increasing your native contrast for scope movies.
He has a 135" 16:9 screen, not scope.
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post #27685 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 10:49 AM
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He has a 135" 16:9 screen, not scope.
I don't see why that's relevant.

He can still use installation mode memory to set up a preset for scope content utilizing the Zoom aspect and gain ~13% more brightness than if he plays his scope content in Native mode.

In Native aspect, his scope content will use 3840x1600 pixels inside the 4096x2160 panel.

In Zoom aspect, his scope content will use 4096x1707 pixels inside the 4096x2160 panel.

This is a 13.8% increase in panel used which amounts to the same % increase in lumens over the same screen area. (Yes I realize you are losing a little bit of brightness by zooming out more, but it's pretty small, maybe 1-2% loss at most.) So that would still be like a 12% increase in brightness in the end.

When enabling Zoom aspect, the image will spill off the sides of this 16:9 screen which is why he will then have to use the lens memory to zoom the image down smaller to fit within his screen.

I think it's certainly worth it as at the very least if he wants it to be the same brightness as his 16:9 content, he can just close down his manual iris a few more clicks with that ~12% extra brightness.
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post #27686 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by llang269 View Post
I’m leaning towards Seymour Xd in 2.4:1 or 2.35. I was hoping 150 would still be bright. Throw won’t be a problem room is 29 feet long.

I have Seymour XD and really like it. If you sit closer than 12’ you may be able to see the weave in very bright / white scenes.

Before you go with a monster screen size I would recommend projecting on your wall and watching content for a week or so. I thought I wanted a much larger screen until I watched action movies and lots of other content. I ended up going with 2.40:1 with a screen width two inches shy of 10’.

In my opinion the 2.40:1 is the best ratio for scope movies as most are produced at 2.39 or 2.40 to 1. Previously I had 2.37:1.


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7.4.6 system: Processors:Marantz 8805 || Xilica XP4080 Amps: Parasound A31 and ATI AT528NC & AT526NC n-core ||Speakers: Procella P8 LCR, Procella P5/P5 in-wall
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post #27687 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:01 PM
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I have been reading the 16:9 vs 2.4:1 war on this thread. I bought a 16:9 screen that i thought was the max the nx5 would fill (112” from 11’6” away). I was unaware the nx5 shoots a 1:9:1 image so i never use all the potential projected light. That would be the ideal screen for this projector unless you have anamorphic lens. I think i should have bought a 1.9:1 screen but i dont think it is professionally made so would have to be diy. I equally game, movies, Netflix series. Cant stand current letterbox wide movie image smaller than 16:9 image, definitely should be other way around. But im okay with current 112” 16:9 image viewed from 13’. Plenty of room to widen screen but maxed out vertically. What are thoughts on diy 120” 1.9:1 screen and can the nx5 automatically adapt different aspect images to fill it? I want to set and forget.
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post #27688 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:22 PM
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What are thoughts on diy 120” 1.9:1 screen and can the nx5 automatically adapt different aspect images to fill it? I want to set and forget.
The projector cannot detect the aspect ratio of the content you're watching. You need to program two lens memory presets and switch between them manually when needed.

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post #27689 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by stinkyonion View Post
I have been reading the 16:9 vs 2.4:1 war on this thread. I bought a 16:9 screen that i thought was the max the nx5 would fill (112” from 11’6” away). I was unaware the nx5 shoots a 1:9:1 image so i never use all the potential projected light. That would be the ideal screen for this projector unless you have anamorphic lens. I think i should have bought a 1.9:1 screen but i dont think it is professionally made so would have to be diy. I equally game, movies, Netflix series. Cant stand current letterbox wide movie image smaller than 16:9 image, definitely should be other way around. But im okay with current 112” 16:9 image viewed from 13’. Plenty of room to widen screen but maxed out vertically. What are thoughts on diy 120” 1.9:1 screen and can the nx5 automatically adapt different aspect images to fill it? I want to set and forget.
You'll need a Lumagen or a HTPC. My Lumagen automatically changes the aspect ratio. Otherwise you'll need to press a button like Josh said.
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post #27690 of 28586 Old 05-28-2020, 01:25 PM
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Hi. Thanks for that information. At night, my room is black. I do the majority of my gaming and movie watching at night, though it's not uncommon to do some gaming in day time. I have a Sony 260ES, which with the exception of the colour banding, has been really good. I don't have any issues with the picture.



In NZ the JVC is around $7600 which is pretty up there in my budget, if you are saying I am not going to significantly benefit from a projector like the JVC because of my uncontrolled lighting, is there anything else native 4K suitable for my requirements, that won't have colour banding, that would be cheaper or better suited for me?



Thanks!
I game in the middle of the day all the time (retired), and my room is not light controlled. I use a Screen Innovations Black Diamond 1.4 ALR screen with my JVC NX7, and the picture is terrific! The JVC input lag is low enough that it isn't a problem.
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