Optoma P1 4k Laser UST @ CES - Page 41 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1201 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kraine View Post
Hi Tuan, this trick is not working with my sample UHZ65UST, I have checked all the factory Modes and all options were disabled and still getting 123 ms lag in 4K
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Originally Posted by ProjectionHead View Post
Hit the info button on your media player and it should indicate if it is using HDR or SDR.
To Verify if the projector is "decoding" an HDR Metadata stream - Go to Image Settings > Display Mode. HDR will be selected and all other options will be GRAY (this is by design).

In addition, when there is signal sync with an HDR source, the resolution is displayed in the top left along with the word HDR. And, you can check from the "Info" tab on the Projector. Go to the OSD (menu button on the remote) - scroll left to Information > Input Source.

Last, you can also go to the OSD (menu button on remote), Image Settings > Dynamic Range. If you can change the HDR Picture Modes - you are in HDR mode.
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post #1202 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by OPTOMA PM DUDE View Post
Hello -- Input lag testing is conducted via a scope. What method is being used to measure input lag?

We have found that the Leo Bodnar 4K UHD Lag Tester is NOT reliable. The product has been removed from their store until some issues have been resolved.
To be honest, the input lag is so bad you don't need an official testing device to know it's not hitting 55ms. It's easily 120ms+ with PureMotion + Geo correction turned off. Just hook a PC up to the projector and move your mouse to feel it.

My Home Theater
Screen: DNP Supernova BLADE (08-85)
Projector: Espon 5040ub
Receiver: Yamaha RX-671
Speakers: DefTech 8060-ST
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post #1203 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OPTOMA PM DUDE View Post
Hello -- Input lag testing is conducted via a scope. What method is being used to measure input lag?

We have found that the Leo Bodnar 4K UHD Lag Tester is NOT reliable. The product has been removed from their store until some issues have been resolved.


I have the two Leobnar measurement probes, 1080P and 4K, the first shows 121 ms delay and the second 123 ms.
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post #1204 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kev1000000 View Post
To be honest, the input lag is so bad you don't need an official testing device to know it's not hitting 55ms. It's easily 120ms+ with PureMotion + Geo correction turned off. Just hook a PC up to the projector and move your mouse to feel it.

Thank you for this confirmation.
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post #1205 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by chinmokutak View Post
Curious, how do you know if HDR is working or not?
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Originally Posted by diggumsmax View Post
Just another update. Still having weird issues. HDR just quit working last night but that might be my fault. I changed the color settings in the Xbox menu from 10 bit to 12 bit. after that HDR did not work. I switched it back to 10 bit but HDR still wouldn't work. after a couple of reboots, a different cable, and a different port HDR finally started working but I'm getting odd dropouts. I'm thinking it's either the actual HDMI port itself, or it's a software issue.

I haven't got a chance to play any games yet but is there any good tool out there to test latency? Just a personal preference but I'm not a fan of pure motion due to the soap opera effect so I'll always have that set to zero.

Edit: I noticed that when I wasn't getting HDR the input option in the menu showed it has no signal even though video is playing. If anyone else has this issue with HDR check there. This shows the input resultion and color (HDR vs SDR).

I might try to get in touch with Optoma today if I have time. I'm really hoping these are just software issues and not hardware related.

Putting the issues those issues aside it's a great projector. You're definitely going to need an ALR screen though unless you have a bat cave. The biggest issue as I have white ceilings and the light bouncing off the ceiling is very brightand causes a bit of wash out at the top of the image even in a dark environment.

This is the first projector I've actually seen where I've noticed HDR. I've got a roughly 2-year-old Vizio but I've only slightly noticed the improvements with HDR on that TV set. It was really noticeable on the P1. I haven't tried outgoing yet so I'm a bit worried about the lag time but we will see. This thing definitely wasn't ready from a software standpoint. The app store is a complete joke and a waste of time. The sound bar actually sounds amazing but as most of already stated I've got i-5.1 setup so this is sort of a mute point. This truly could be a TV replacement for a non-audio buff. I personally thought it sounded as good as the Sonos sound bar but it'll need a subwoofer if you want any bass.

The bottom of the image is higher than I would like. I understand due to the manufacturing that every projectors not going to be the same but using the ruler they sent I'm using the bottom mark of 120 for a roughly 100 inch screen and it's 13 inches from the wall.

I think with some firmware updates this thing might end up being a great projector. I could be wrong and I could be having hardware issues but I will have to figure that out. Don't let my bad experience deter you from buying this projector as it seems like most people are not having this issue.

I tried to set it up with Alexa but optima makes it a huge hassle. You have to create a cloud account with optima. Before that you have to register your device which should be done anyways for the warranty, but after that it keeps telling me my device isn't registered so I can't use the Alexa skill. I still need to try and set this up on my Logitech remote so I can see IR actually works. Probably going to try and set it up in Hass.io later after I get off work.

There is quite a bit of screen flickering and weirdness when you mess around in the settings and change anything. This is somewhat understandable but it seems like it almost stops displaying the image to adjust to the new settings then comes back on. With HDMI I get a lot of screen going in and out when changing settings but a quickly goes away. The lower two screenshots, one is showing how much light gets reflected in the ceiling, this was to be expected but it's much better in person than it is in the picture. I'm using a Stewart Firehawk screen and previous posters and told me this would not be a good screen for UST.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

OK -- a lot going on in this thread.

1. Please set the Xbox to 10-bit and also set the color space to recommended -- then check "4K Details". All items should be green except for 50Hz.

2. HDR Content: Source and content, please? From the (cause I have these movies) 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray and Xbox One X? What CABLE are you using? Not cables are created equally and or compatible with some front end scalers.

3. Alexa -- On the addendum in the box (the very first thing you see when you open the box), there were instructions to use the Optoma Connect App to scan the QR Code on the projector to add the Projector to your account -- is very painless. Did you use Optoma Connect? Or did you use the legacy method of generating a pair code and manually entering serial number on the mydevices cloud website?

4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin.

5. Flicker on the Launcher (Home Screen) not HDMI Source - there may be an occasional flicker, this will be improved in the next FOTA update (roughly 2 weeks). I will keep everyone posted.
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post #1206 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ProjectionHead View Post
Pardon me in case I am getting people mixed up, but I believe we spoke about how the P1 will not work with the Firehawk since it is a traditional ALR surface; hence it is not reflecting light from the UST towards the audience.



The minimum throw distance for a projector to work properly with the Firehawk would be 1.6 x the image width.
Yes, we discussed quite a bit via phone. I knew it was based off what you said but I really wanted to get my hands on the projector before buying a ALR screen. The bottom of the image is higher than I expected from the surface the projector is sitting on.. While it's not a huge deal it is a factor in the size screen I buy after I see If I can retrofit my current credenza to get the P1 closer to the ground.

In other words,, I was expecting these issues but the light bouncing off the ceiling was way worse than I thought it was going to be. It still looks pretty amazing with all lights off which just makes me want to get an ALR screen more.

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post #1207 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:33 PM
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Originally Posted by diggumsmax View Post
Yes, we discussed quite a bit via phone. I knew it was based off what you said but I really wanted to get my hands on the projector before buying a ALR screen. The bottom of the image is higher than I expected from the surface the projector is sitting on.. While it's not a huge deal it is a factor in the size screen I buy after I see If I can retrofit my current credenza to get the P1 closer to the ground.

In other words,, I was expecting these issues but the light bouncing off the ceiling was way worse than I thought it was going to be. It still looks pretty amazing with all lights off which just makes me want to get an ALR screen more.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk


It’s always a good idea to wait on a screen until your projector is setup. Buying both at the same time is the most common mistake I see people new to projection make, by a large margin.
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post #1208 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OPTOMA PM DUDE View Post
OK -- a lot going on in this thread.



1. Please set the Xbox to 10-bit and also set the color space to recommended -- then check "4K Details". All items should be green except for 50Hz.



2. HDR Content: Source and content, please? From the (cause I have these movies) 4K UHD HDR Blu-ray and Xbox One X? What CABLE are you using? Not cables are created equally and or compatible with some front end scalers.



3. Alexa -- On the addendum in the box (the very first thing you see when you open the box), there were instructions to use the Optoma Connect App to scan the QR Code on the projector to add the Projector to your account -- is very painless. Did you use Optoma Connect? Or did you use the legacy method of generating a pair code and manually entering serial number on the mydevices cloud website?



4. Offset - The offset for UST lens is larger than ST and Standard Throw. The offset for CinemaX P1 (listed on the website and datasheet) is 124%. Yes - the distance between the top of the projector and the bottom of the lens is large as UST lens is MORE complex than ST and Standard Throw -- has nothing do with the manufacturing process. The margin of -+5% is the nature of lenses (in general). 12" is what is expected for 100" image yet the 13" is within the 5% margin.



5. Flicker on the Launcher (Home Screen) not HDMI Source - there may be an occasional flicker, this will be improved in the next FOTA update (roughly 2 weeks). I will keep everyone posted.
1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place.

2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing.

3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-UH...d_i=B01CRA11IU

4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating.

I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document.

5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend?

The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea.

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post #1209 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 01:49 PM
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I should have read the reviews before buying the HDMI cable that I linked above. Several people said that the connectors were poor and they had drop outs. I have a higher quality HDMI 2.0 cable hooked up to my 4K TV in the bedroom. I'm going to switch this out when I get home. with that said, I would have expected the cable that came with it to not have any issues. Hopefully switching the cable fixes the issues and I will certainly let everyone know if it does.

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post #1210 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 02:30 PM
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A couple pictures. The exposure on that wide shot makes it look like the room is dark. It's really pretty bright in there. Surprised I was able to get it setup without any geometry correction. Small position adjustments make big changes.
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post #1211 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 02:41 PM
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Thanks for all your first tests/pros & cons/pictures and videos

Found this nice review (Chinese to Eng with Google translate) with plenty of tests with different sources: all look stunning honestly

http://www.avbuzz.com/audio-video/201910/optoma-p1-1/
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post #1212 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 03:26 PM
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I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited
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post #1213 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Kdub69 View Post
I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited
Yup. As great as other aspects of this unit are, 120ms+ input lag is a deal breaker for me. If there is no way to reduce it via FW updates, I'll have to send this unit back.

My Home Theater
Screen: DNP Supernova BLADE (08-85)
Projector: Espon 5040ub
Receiver: Yamaha RX-671
Speakers: DefTech 8060-ST
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post #1214 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Kdub69 View Post
I think we can all agree here that the input lag is the biggest problem so far going from 55ms to 120+ is a deal breaker for lots of people I am hoping this becomes addressed with the next update asap since it was advertised as 55ms. Can we get some more confirmation on this besides we are looking into it? Can they admit that this is a problem? Thanks still excited
Sounds like a software issue with the lag. It doesn't sound unsolvable. If the color is messed or there is flickering, that sounds like physical prob.


For me, how loud the unit is at 8-10' is what I care about the most. Anyone with the projector and a sound level meter? Spectroid is a free android app that will let you find what frequency the fan noise is making if you want bonus points.

Thanks for the vids and pics folks! Keep 'em coming!
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post #1215 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 04:54 PM
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For me, how loud the unit is at 8-10' is what I care about the most.
It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.
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post #1216 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 05:11 PM
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Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.
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HTPC. Onkyo 636, Polk audio speakers and Klipsch sub. KHO-7 Outdoor speakers. Homeseer homecontrol over Z-wave.
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post #1217 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diggumsmax View Post
1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place.

2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing.

3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-UH...d_i=B01CRA11IU

4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating.

I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document.

5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend?

The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

I see you're using a 10ft cable! Getting 4K HDR is really dicey at that range. Take it from someone who has gone through over $300 in cable and many different brands/combinations....Save your self some grief and buy cables rated for 8K. They are not that much more and will save you headache when you try to troubleshoot why you're getting drop outs and hand shake issues with 4K HDR content @60 hz/fps. That way you can at least eliminate the cable as the source of your misery. ALSO: get a short 3 ft just for troubleshooting if you run into issues with a longer run ;-)
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post #1218 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:23 PM
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I found this web "neobits.com" with a good price for the optoma p1 , but I don't if it is legitimate or not. In any case, I still not find the difference that I'm looking for between the optoma and my old xiaomi projector, at least not in the pictures, I might go to the Bh photo studio or somewhere where I can see it personally or at least, I will wait for a review with comparisons. Not just video or pictures.

(I would post the link directly, but I can't, but just go to neobits.com and look for the optoma p1)
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post #1219 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Tuan View Post
We're looking into it.
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Originally Posted by diggumsmax View Post
Is there anyway you can measure this. From the research I have done it is not supposed to be this much. Both the distance from the wall and were picture is based off those measurements is way off from Optoma has in there manual. Based off my research, it was supposed to be around 12"'s although that appears to be from an outdated spec sheet. 15 inches away from the wall instead of 10 inches is big difference. Even bigger is that the bottom of the image is 20"s from where the projector is sitting for a 100" screen going by the specs in a previous post. Below is from a screenshot from the manual someone posted earlier today. It appears that this will vary between units but I don't even think I can do a 100"s without having to buy a new TV stand/credenza. I'm not putting something this expensive on the floor and it's starting to seem like that is the best place for it.... Based off the screenshots you posted though it does seem close to 20 inches from the stand the PJ is sitting on to the bottom of the screen.

100"
13.7795 to 17.9528 inches from the projector is sitting on to bottom of image

120"
16 to 20.9055 inches from surface projector is sitting on to bottom of image
The diagram in the installation guide will be corrected (shortly) but regardless, to determine the distance from top of the projector to bottom of screen -- 0.24 x the height of the image (0.24x49). If the image is 100" diag - the offset is 11.76". Keep in mind that the margin is +6% and - 2.5%.

As for the throw distance (100" as an example), it can VARY depending on whether SmartFIT is used or not. 100" is roughly 10.5 to 10.75" (give or take) to the projection surface (wall or screen) - no SmartFIT. With SmartFIT (as the projector must be further back) - it can reach 11.75" to 12.5" as the projector must be further back to use the feature. PLEASE remember that the margin can also be up to -+5%.

Please, remember that 100" and 120" is diagonal and not width (just a small reminder).

For Stand Height -- we recommend less than 20". For my demo units, my Stand is 13".

To confirm - what is the image size? You are measuring from the back top of the unit (I/O side) to the wall or screen? The distance is always to the projection surface. If using a screen - use the screen as the reference point and not the wall.

Please let me know. :-)
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post #1220 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:34 PM
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It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.
Yes - the sound is nominal at 8-10'. We worked very hard to keep the noise to a minimum. :-)
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post #1221 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:37 PM
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Things slowly coming together more and more as time permits. Still need to do measurements on the stand to get the throw size optimized (among other things). Media source = NVIDIA Shield + Netflix. Screen = Not opening that can of worms except to say that I did not spend very much.
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post #1222 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:40 PM
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It is nearly silent at 8-10'. Even at full power.
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Originally Posted by Casey_Bryson View Post
I see you're using a 10ft cable! Getting 4K HDR is really dicey at that range. Take it from someone who has gone through over $300 in cable and many different brands/combinations....Save your self some grief and buy cables rated for 8K. They are not that much more and will save you headache when you try to troubleshoot why you're getting drop outs and hand shake issues with 4K HDR content @60 hz/fps. That way you can at least eliminate the cable as the source of your misery. ALSO: get a short 3 ft just for troubleshooting if you run into issues with a longer run ;-)
Sorry -- this is not quite the case. Most well-constructed copper cables are no problem -- unless the distance is 25' or beyond (then we recommend using HDMI Fiber Active Cables -- there are several DTECH cables well below $200 that work very well). In addition, rated for 4K and 8K is very subjective. In the end, a 4K cable should support 4K UHD, 4:4:4, HDR metadata stream and 10bit/12bit. AND, performance varies depending on the SOURCE.

Here are some Copper and Cooper Active Cables that have passed the test with Xbox One X, Apple TV 4K (has a very marginal signal) and Samsung K8500 4K UHD Blu-ray.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will update the AVL on the Optoma Website to provide a full list of cables that can be used as an alternative.

Hope this helps. :-)
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post #1223 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 06:44 PM
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1 - all setting on my Xbox have been set to those settings. I should have never changed it to 12 bit in the first place.

2. 4k Blu Ray and high bitrate content via Plex. At this point I think switching it to 12 bit confused the pj but I could be wrong. The info for the input showed that there was no signal at all in the Optoma menu while video was playing.

3. I have used both the HDMI cable ship with the projector and the cable. I have one more HDMI 2.0 cable I can try. Below is the one I use that did not come with the projector.

https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-Cable-UH...d_i=B01CRA11IU

4. Thanks.. I know these things are way different than standard throat projectors. I was just speculating.

I was using the older method. I will try the new method when I get home. I did find it all that there was no instruction manual in the box, only a quick setup document.

5. The flickering on the home screen was really weird, exactly half of the screen just started flashing different colors. Hopefully this will be resolved in the next update. The "flashing" issue was on HDMI and has happened on both port one port two but this could be the cable. I know not all cables are created equal but I do know that there are some way overpriced ones out there. I'm certainly not against ordering another HDMI cable if needed. Is there any particular brand you recommend?

The numbering might be out of order but you get the idea.

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2. Please reset the Xbox and clear the cache by holding down the power button until the console powers off. Also, ensure that HDR is still enabled under the menu (Image Settings > Dynamic Range.

3. We are testing some Copper and Copper Active Cables, here are a few:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We will update our AVL in the next few days.

5. Yes - the upcoming FOTA will focus on the DDP flashing issue on the Launcher.


Please keep me posted. :-)
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post #1224 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 07:12 PM
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The diagram in the installation guide will be corrected (shortly) but regardless, to determine the distance from top of the projector to bottom of screen -- 0.24 x the height of the image (0.24x49). If the image is 100" diag - the offset is 11.76". Keep in mind that the margin is +6% and - 2.5%.






To confirm - what is the image size? You are measuring from the back top of the unit (I/O side) to the wall or screen? The distance is always to the projection surface. If using a screen - use the screen as the reference point and not the wall.



Please let me know. :-)
This image from the projector surface is 11.75 inches. I had not factored in the 2 inches where my screen was so that's my miscalculation. Right now the image is 51 inches high so probably between 104 and 107 inches so the distance from the back of the projector to the screen (not the wall). I can't measure corner to corner at the moment..

It is 16.25 inches from the service the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image. I never factored in the offset and thought the image might be a little bit to low before I got the projector. Even with the offset that still seems a bit high but since I can't measure the exact size of the image, I could be wrong. It's less than 110 but more 103.

I'm starting to think some of the HDMI hand shaking issues yesterday on my Xbox was the HDMI cable. I switched it out with a different one and I've only had flickering on the menu since than and that will be fixed. The odd thing is is I had the most issues with the cable that came in the box. This third cable is up higher quality.

The HDR thing is weird. If I play Plex I get HDR with HDR content. With Blu-ray it's hit or miss. I get it sometimes and other times I don't. sometimes ejecting the disk and putting it back in works, sometimes restarting the Xbox resolves it, and sometimes restarting the projector resolves it. The weirdest thing is Plex seems to always work with HDR besides when I changed the color bit to 12 yesterday.


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post #1225 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by diggumsmax View Post
This image from the projector surface is 11.75 inches. I had not factored in the 2 inches where my screen was so that's my miscalculation. Right now the image is 51 inches high so probably between 104 and 107 inches so the distance from the back of the projector to the screen (not the wall). I can't measure corner to corner at the moment..

It is 16.25 inches from the service the projector is sitting on to the bottom of the image. I never factored in the offset and thought the image might be a little bit to low before I got the projector. Even with the offset that still seems a bit high but since I can't measure the exact size of the image, I could be wrong. It's less than 110 but more 103.

I'm starting to think some of the HDMI hand shaking issues yesterday on my Xbox was the HDMI cable. I switched it out with a different one and I've only had flickering on the menu since than and that will be fixed. The odd thing is is I had the most issues with the cable that came in the box. This third cable is up higher quality.

The HDR thing is weird. If I play Plex I get HDR with HDR content. With Blu-ray it's hit or miss. I get it sometimes and other times I don't. sometimes ejecting the disk and putting it back in works, sometimes restarting the Xbox resolves it, and sometimes restarting the projector resolves it. The weirdest thing is Plex seems to always work with HDR besides when I changed the color bit to 12 yesterday.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
I want to wait until I have a full list of what is on my mind before getting into this meaningfully, but in general terms, it appears to me that the firmware / OS still needs some work if this projector is ever going to reach its full potential. Initial impression is that the hardware is on point, but when you stop to consider that part of the marketing appeal for this unit is that it can function as something of a "plug it in and go" item, then the firmware / android backbone should deliver a more robust, fluid user experience than what I see at present. Kudos on the hardware, but have some work to do on the software side (ideally we are moving toward a purer and more up-to-date android interface).
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post #1226 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 09:38 PM
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I want to wait until I have a full list of what is on my mind before getting into this meaningfully, but in general terms, it appears to me that the firmware / OS still needs some work if this projector is ever going to reach its full potential. Initial impression is that the hardware is on point, but when you stop to consider that part of the marketing appeal for this unit is that it can function as something of a "plug it in and go" item, then the firmware / android backbone should deliver a more robust, fluid user experience than what I see at present. Kudos on the hardware, but have some work to do on the software side (ideally we are moving toward a purer and more up-to-date android interface).
While I agree about the software, the picture on this thing is amazing. Especially HDR content. I'm starting to think the HDR issue I've been having is on the Xbox side, not the P1. I also don't have the right screen for this thing.

Black Panther was a visual masterpiece on this thing. Watching John Wick 2 right now and the P1 is by far the best image I've ever seen from a projector I have not seen the lg or other various models though. . While I won't use it the long run, the sound bar is amazing as well.

I have not had one single issue at all actually watching video content. it appears that some of the issues I was having yesterday was due to a bad HDMI cable. I still don't understand the Xbox issue but I'll figure it out later.

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post #1227 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 10:02 PM
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Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.
I'm not a gamer, but the lag is immediately noticeable when I move the mouse cursor on my Mac Mini or maneuver around the KODI interface.
I don't have SmartFit or PureMotion running.

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Originally Posted by TimHuey View Post
Can someone get a buddy to film them making a character jump or shoot a gun so we can visually see what you are talking about. Put your controller and hand in the frame with the screen so we can see you hit the button and how long it takes for the action to occur.
I'm not a gamer, but the lag is immediately noticeable when I move the mouse cursor on my Mac Mini or maneuver around the KODI interface.
I don't have SmartFit or PureMotion running.

This has to be fixed otherwise i’m sending mine back... false advertising at 55ms
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post #1229 of 1668 Old 10-10-2019, 11:46 PM
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This has to be fixed otherwise i’m sending mine back... false advertising at 55ms
Eventually it’s going to be fixed, Optoma has a decent track record of firmware updates. I’m preordering mine today because I’ve waited long enough for an alternative to chinese imports with european warranty
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post #1230 of 1668 Old 10-11-2019, 12:44 AM
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Does anyone have tried 3D? With Dune, Zidoo or similar, Is it full 1080p 3D? How is the stutter, brightness, colors? Can you play MVC/Iso files?
Thank you !

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