JVC NX5 Settings Thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 30 Old 04-16-2019, 06:26 PM - Thread Starter
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JVC NX5 Settings Thread

Not sure why we don't have one because the owners tread just too big & really need to be split into setting tread also. We had this with other JVC models(Rant over)...But my question is,just got my NX5 & i have it paired with Panasonic UB820 can someone direct to me where to start with setting, been reading this owners tread for hour can't seem to find it.

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post #2 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Nexgen76 View Post
Not sure why we don't have one because the owners tread just too big & really need to be split into setting tread also. We had this with other JVC models(Rant over)...But my question is,just got my NX5 & i have it paired with Panasonic UB820 can someone direct to me where to start with setting, been reading this owners tread for hour can't seem to find it.
Just got my RS1000 yesterday, and I also am looking for some settings advice. I read through the owners a whole bunch trying to decide to buy or not. Now, i dont have the patience to go through it again to look for some good tips. Hoping some stuff lands in this thread

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post #3 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 08:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dwander View Post
Just got my RS1000 yesterday, and I also am looking for some settings advice. I read through the owners a whole bunch trying to decide to buy or not. Now, i dont have the patience to go through it again to look for some good tips. Hoping some stuff lands in this thread


Its sad that owner's tread has gotten so far off topic it's ridiculous. Asking for help has gotten drowned out. I inbox a friend of mines that close hopeful he will give me a starting point. I will let you know asap when i hear back from him.
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JVC NX5 Panasonic UB820 PC Madvr
Sliver Ticket 120' Cinema white screen
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post #4 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 03:11 PM
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The NX5 works great out of the box with default settings so even scouring the owner's thread you're not going to find much beyond that. If you have a small or high-gain screen you may want to close the iris some for SDR. You may also want to adjust the Brightness setting to -2 or -3 if your black level is too high (common on these).
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post #5 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
The NX5 works great out of the box with default settings so even scouring the owner's thread you're not going to find much beyond that. If you have a small or high-gain screen you may want to close the iris some for SDR. You may also want to adjust the Brightness setting to -2 or -3 if your black level is too high (common on these).
What do i need to set on the JVC if i want it to handle all the tone mapping ?

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post #6 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 03:57 PM
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What do i need to set on the JVC if i want it to handle all the tone mapping ?
Tone mapping is automatically enabled for any HDR source with metadata. You may want to adjust the "Mapping Level" slider if the overall image is too dim when watching HDR.

When the HDR source does not contain metadata then you'll have to experiment with the manual gamma controls to get best results. The manual contains a reasonable description of these.
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post #7 of 30 Old 04-17-2019, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
Tone mapping is automatically enabled for any HDR source with metadata. You may want to adjust the "Mapping Level" slider if the overall image is too dim when watching HDR.

When the HDR source does not contain metadata the automatic tone mapping then you'll have to experiment with the manual gamma controls to get best results. The manual contains a reasonable description of these.
Okay that's been my issue the picture was too dim, Plus picture looked kinda washed out.

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post #8 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 06:47 AM
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Are there any other settings? Right now I haven't really touched any of the settings, but I want to make sure it is where it all should be for the best picture.

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post #9 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 08:47 AM
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Are there any other settings? Right now I haven't really touched any of the settings, but I want to make sure it is where it all should be for the best picture.
I’ve been messing with my NX5 for the last couple weeks and I think I finally got my settings to where I like.

For HDR:
High Lamp Mode
Iris: -1
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 3
Contrast: 3
Brightness: 1
Color: 4
Gamma: HDR

For SDR:
Low lamp mode
Iris: -3
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 1
Brightness: 3
Color: 4
Gamma: 2.3

My blacks are slightly elevated but I like my picture to have some pop so I’ll take a brighter image with a little less black.
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post #10 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
I’ve been messing with my NX5 for the last couple weeks and I think I finally got my settings to where I like.

For HDR:
High Lamp Mode
Iris: -1
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 3
Contrast: 3
Brightness: 1
Color: 4
Gamma: HDR

For SDR:
Low lamp mode
Iris: -3
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 1
Brightness: 3
Color: 4
Gamma: 2.3

My blacks are slightly elevated but I like my picture to have some pop so I’ll take a brighter image with a little less black.

Nice, thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for. So I assume when the projector detects HDR, it will automatically go to those settings once I input them, then everything else will be SDR? Did you select a specific picture mode like User 1 or cinema? Lastly, for the motion, CMD and Lag one, I have read to leave the lag one on, then everything else off.


I appreciate your help. Thank you.

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post #11 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 04rex View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
I’ve been messing with my NX5 for the last couple weeks and I think I finally got my settings to where I like.

For HDR:
High Lamp Mode
Iris: -1
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 3
Contrast: 3
Brightness: 1
Color: 4
Gamma: HDR

For SDR:
Low lamp mode
Iris: -3
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 1
Brightness: 3
Color: 4
Gamma: 2.3

My blacks are slightly elevated but I like my picture to have some pop so I’ll take a brighter image with a little less black.

Nice, thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for. So I assume when the projector detects HDR, it will automatically go to those settings once I input them, then everything else will be SDR? Did you select a specific picture mode like User 1 or cinema? Lastly, for the motion, CMD and Lag one, I have read to leave the lag one on, then everything else off.


I appreciate your help. Thank you.
No problem at all! For HDR I’m using the HDR mode and for regular Blu rays I’m using Cinema and then just adjusted from there.

The projector should automatically switch settings depending on the input signal. I’ve noticed a couple of times it didn’t though so it’s kind of a pain.

As far as motion goes I’m using low Latency on, clear motion drive off and motion enhance to low and it seems to be pretty clean.
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post #12 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
No problem at all! For HDR I’m using the HDR mode and for regular Blu rays I’m using Cinema and then just adjusted from there.

The projector should automatically switch settings depending on the input signal. I’ve noticed a couple of times it didn’t though so it’s kind of a pain.

As far as motion goes I’m using low Latency on, clear motion drive off and motion enhance to low and it seems to be pretty clean.

Thanks again. I will try those settings out then adjust then if need be.

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post #13 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
No problem at all! For HDR I’m using the HDR mode and for regular Blu rays I’m using Cinema and then just adjusted from there.

The projector should automatically switch settings depending on the input signal. I’ve noticed a couple of times it didn’t though so it’s kind of a pain.

As far as motion goes I’m using low Latency on, clear motion drive off and motion enhance to low and it seems to be pretty clean.

Thanks again. I will try those settings out then adjust then if need be.
No problem at all. Let me know if you end up finding better settings from there. I would love to tweak them a little more. Thanks!
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post #14 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 01:09 PM
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No problem at all. Let me know if you end up finding better settings from there. I would love to tweak them a little more. Thanks!
Will do. I will update this thread accordingly. Hopefully other owners can do the same thing.

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post #15 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
I’ve been messing with my NX5 for the last couple weeks and I think I finally got my settings to where I like.

For HDR:
High Lamp Mode
Iris: -1
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 3
Contrast: 3
Brightness: 1
Color: 4
Gamma: HDR

For SDR:
Low lamp mode
Iris: -3
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 1
Brightness: 3
Color: 4
Gamma: 2.3

My blacks are slightly elevated but I like my picture to have some pop so I’ll take a brighter image with a little less black.
If I understand what you're trying to do for "pop", you'd want to adjust brightness for the best black level and then use contrast to boost the luminance of brighter content. Brightness uniformly raises the luminance of all content but its most pronounced affect is on the darkest content. It'll noticeably raise your black floor and less significantly raise the brightness of all other content, effectively decreasing the contrast of the image. Contrast is a major factor in "pop" so that's not generally a desired outcome.

"Brightness" is better thought of as a black level adjustment than a brightness adjustment. The contrast setting on the other hand only affects brighter content and has no effect on black level. These projectors are fairy accurate out of the box so if you adjust contrast for your personal preferences keep in mind that you'll be getting a non-reference image as a result. If you ever have your projector calibrated the first thing they will do is to zero out the contrast.

You shouldn't need to trade contrast for brightness. The brightness and contrast settings are digital adjustments, not mechanical ones so it should be possible to get the best possible black level while still getting as much brightness as you desire for brighter content. The only settings where you have to sacrifice black level to get more brightness above black are high/low lamp and the manual iris setting.

https://poynton.ca/notes/brightness_...ast/index.html

Last edited by mattztt; 05-16-2019 at 02:19 PM.
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post #16 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 02:09 PM
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Great idea starting this thread!
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post #17 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 03:20 PM
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I noticed when I put in a 4K Blu-ray in my oppo 205 set to auto, I have had some discs not have the hdr brightness slider pop up. Does it depend on the metadata on the disc? Actually the only disc that the slider is available is oblivian.

Lucy, gotg 2, the Martian and Star Wars the last Jedi does not.


What are others seeing?


Thx. Bob
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post #18 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
If I understand what you're trying to do for "pop", you'd want to adjust brightness for the best black level and then use contrast to boost the luminance of brighter content. Brightness uniformly raises the luminance of all content but its most pronounced affect is on the darkest content. It'll noticeably raise your black floor and less significantly raise the brightness of all other content, effectively decreasing the contrast of the image. Contrast is a major factor in "pop" so that's not generally a desired outcome.

"Brightness" is better thought of as a black level adjustment than a brightness adjustment. The contrast setting on the other hand only affects brighter content and has no effect on black level. These projectors are fairy accurate out of the box so if you adjust contrast for your personal preferences keep in mind that you'll be getting a non-reference image as a result. If you ever have your projector calibrated the first thing they will do is to zero out the contrast.

You shouldn't need to trade contrast for brightness. The brightness and contrast settings are digital adjustments, not mechanical ones so it should be possible to get the best possible black level while still getting as much brightness as you desire for brighter content. The only settings where you have to sacrifice black level to get more brightness above black are high/low lamp and the manual iris setting.

https://poynton.ca/notes/brightness_...ast/index.html
Good point, typically there should be no need to mess with the picture settings (brightness, contrast, hue, tint). But I have several people set brightness at -3 with the new JVCs, I am guessing to lower the black floor. I personally did not find it made a huge difference.
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post #19 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 04:42 PM
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But I have several people set brightness at -3 with the new JVCs, I am guessing to lower the black floor. I personally did not find it made a huge difference.
I didn't find that it made much difference until I got to -5. After going back and forth a little bit using various "calibration" disks and looking at content, I ended up at -2. But I could easily live with it at 0, which is where I have everything else.
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post #20 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattztt View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by edub90 View Post
I’ve been messing with my NX5 for the last couple weeks and I think I finally got my settings to where I like.

For HDR:
High Lamp Mode
Iris: -1
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 3
Contrast: 3
Brightness: 1
Color: 4
Gamma: HDR

For SDR:
Low lamp mode
Iris: -3
MPC: Hi Res Enhance 1
Brightness: 3
Color: 4
Gamma: 2.3

My blacks are slightly elevated but I like my picture to have some pop so I’ll take a brighter image with a little less black.
If I understand what you're trying to do for "pop", you'd want to adjust brightness for the best black level and then use contrast to boost the luminance of brighter content. Brightness uniformly raises the luminance of all content but its most pronounced affect is on the darkest content. It'll noticeably raise your black floor and less significantly raise the brightness of all other content, effectively decreasing the contrast of the image. Contrast is a major factor in "pop" so that's not generally a desired outcome.

"Brightness" is better thought of as a black level adjustment than a brightness adjustment. The contrast setting on the other hand only affects brighter content and has no effect on black level. These projectors are fairy accurate out of the box so if you adjust contrast for your personal preferences keep in mind that you'll be getting a non-reference image as a result. If you ever have your projector calibrated the first thing they will do is to zero out the contrast.

You shouldn't need to trade contrast for brightness. The brightness and contrast settings are digital adjustments, not mechanical ones so it should be possible to get the best possible black level while still getting as much brightness as you desire for brighter content. The only settings where you have to sacrifice black level to get more brightness above black are high/low lamp and the manual iris setting.

https://poynton.ca/notes/brightness_...ast/index.html
Would you recommend a different setting then? I know if it also probably dependent on unit and room, but just to get an idea.

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post #21 of 30 Old 05-16-2019, 05:09 PM
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Would you recommend a different setting then? I know if it also probably dependent on unit and room, but just to get an idea.
It will depend on the unit and environment but from default settings I'd start by projecting a black image - or at least a mostly black image like a space scene - and adjusting brightness until the black part of the image does not go any darker. For most people that seems to be a brightness level of -2 or -3. Some people find that they lose some shadow detail at minimum black level so they will adjust one level higher (i.e. maximum black is -3 so they use -2). Use SDR content for this as HDR content will often have an elevated black level or the projector will itself may push the black level up when tone mapping.

The iris setting is entirely determined by your environment - how large your screen is and what it's gain is, whether you have any ambient light, and even what color the walls are. It's what determines your maximum possible brightness for a given lamp mode. In a very dark room on an average size screen it's not uncommon for people to close the iris down to -10 or even lower with low lamp for SDR content. With HDR you will typically want the iris fully open and at high lamp if the fan noise doesn't bother you.

The contrast and color settings are very much going to be a matter of personal preference. Out of the box the default settings on the JVCs are going to be fairly close to reference so in that sense the ideal settings are the defaults but you can tweak contrast and color a bit if your personal preference is for something a bit different. On my projector I have brightness set to -3 and contrast at 0.

Last edited by mattztt; 05-16-2019 at 05:33 PM.
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post #22 of 30 Old 05-26-2019, 04:06 PM
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Thanks for starting this thread.

Just setting up my new NX5 and will use some of the settings mentioned above. By and large it seems, unlike other projectors, these JVCs are pretty good out of the box and won't need much settings configuration.

Thanks!

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post #23 of 30 Old 05-28-2019, 05:28 PM
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For SDR, are you guys leaving the Color profile at the default BT.709? I see a few others in there, but don't know what they mean.

Out of the box, the settings are working pretty damn good for me. Really, the only thing I changed was color +4. Everything else is great. HDR switches automatically when detected.

Only other thing I found sightly different for my experience from the posts above, I preferred Clear Motion Drive at Low instead Off. Otherwise I was seeing jerk in fast motion over large landscape.

Thanks!

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post #24 of 30 Old 05-28-2019, 05:34 PM
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My NX5 is coming this week so I’m going to be following this thread closely. I’m also looking to get the 820 soon as well


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post #25 of 30 Old 07-10-2019, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by ultra 150 pilot View Post
I noticed when I put in a 4K Blu-ray in my oppo 205 set to auto, I have had some discs not have the hdr brightness slider pop up. Does it depend on the metadata on the disc? Actually the only disc that the slider is available is oblivian.

Lucy, gotg 2, the Martian and Star Wars the last Jedi does not.


What are others seeing?


Thx. Bob
I am having the same issue. I am using my Xbox One as the 4K player and haven't found the Auto Tone Mapping Feature in the menu nor have the 4K Blu-rays triggered the feature. Were you able to get it to work?

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post #26 of 30 Old 07-10-2019, 07:12 PM
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Click on the gamma setting and if it’s available it will there.
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post #27 of 30 Old 07-10-2019, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Dferguso View Post
I am having the same issue. I am using my Xbox One as the 4K player and haven't found the Auto Tone Mapping Feature in the menu nor have the 4K Blu-rays triggered the feature. Were you able to get it to work?
Lucy should show the meta data, it does on mine and if I go to the info menu on my RS1000 is shows that it's in HDR mode and displays the meta data numbers. I'm using an HTPC and MadVR.

There's probably a setting on the Xbox and the Oppo that needs to be changed.
Maybe things need to be set to output at the correct colour space and or refresh rate.
Or finding the right HDMI out put mode.
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post #28 of 30 Old 07-11-2019, 01:27 PM
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Lucy should show the meta data, it does on mine and if I go to the info menu on my RS1000 is shows that it's in HDR mode and displays the meta data numbers. I'm using an HTPC and MadVR.

There's probably a setting on the Xbox and the Oppo that needs to be changed.
Maybe things need to be set to output at the correct colour space and or refresh rate.
Or finding the right HDMI out put mode.
Ultra 150 Pilot was right. Found it in the Gamma Menu. What I found interesting was the meta data for Transformers The Last Knight was being transmitted to the projector on the Menu screen and then when you watch the movie the meta data is no longer transmitted. I wonder if the meta data is from just the menu or if it is reporting the data for the movie.

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post #29 of 30 Old 07-12-2019, 05:49 AM
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Its sad that owner's tread has gotten so far off topic it's ridiculous. Asking for help has gotten drowned out. I inbox a friend of mines that close hopeful he will give me a starting point. I will let you know asap when i hear back from him.


Owner thread 90% about nx7 nx9, good to have a dedicated thread for nx5


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post #30 of 30 Old 07-12-2019, 09:15 AM
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Could we use it?

Hi, Thanks for the thread,
I am just waiting to receive my RS1000/N5 and as I don't know almost anything about calibration, adjustments... I was looking for recommended initial settings.

I wanted to share a very good one that I found from a N7, but apparently should mostly apply to the N5. His room is also a fully dedicated black bat, whereas mine is a lighter semi dedicated room; and I will be projecting on a 135" screen.

My question is: Would these setting mostly apply to all of us (I think they are quite comprehensive for beginners like me) or should we modify / omit part of it?

I would really appreciate you opinion. See RECOMMENDED SETTINGS bellow

(I can not post the web , I will do it later after 5 posts)

[PRELIMINARY, I'll update when I've had more time with the projector (and as others offer suggestions/corrections as well) and am hoping to post detailed measurements in the advanced section shortly. All measurements mentioned were either taken with my Discus trained to my i1pro2 or with my Minolta T10. My screen is a Carada BW 88" 16/9 with an effective nominal gain (1.3 advertised). Throw distance is 3.60m, which I believe is mid-throw. More details in the advanced section.]

Based on the initial measurements of my RS2000/NX7 (see detailed data in advanced section), here are the settings I would recommend OOTB for different type of content. My unit had f/w 1.20 installed. Note: If some of what I'm suggesting doesn't apply to the RS1000/NX5 or RS3000/NX9, please let me know (by PM or in the thread) and I'll correct/update. I haven't had the time to cross-check all options, but the below should apply to the RS3000 as well and hopefully to the RS1000 too, mostly. There is unit to unit variation, so YMMV of course.

Initial Set-up
I use HDMI Standard (and force it to 16-235) to be sure that it stays that way. I make sure that all my sources send video levels. You might prefer leaving this on auto.
I leave colorspace on auto, it's usually fairly reliable.
I left contrast to zero (I clip at 235), but at least my unit seems to be raising the black floor significantly with brightness at the default of 0, which wasn't the case on previous models in my experience. This might be an attempt by JVC to improve shadow detail, but it literally kills the native and dynamic contrast. I set it to -2 for all my contrast measurements, and shadow detail is still very good that way. I might move it to -1 for day to day use, as the hit on the black floor/contrast is minimal, and shadow detail (especially level 17/68) improves a bit. But the default of 0, at least on my unit, is a big no-no. Make sure you check for this on your unit!
To test for a raised black floor visually if you don't have a meter able to read black reliably: with the DI disabled (iris on manual), display a black pattern, press the "hide" button on the remote. If you see the black floor going down, it means that brightness is too high. Unhide, lower brightness one step at a time, and repeat, until you can't see a difference when switching between hide and unhide. It's much better, in my opinion (if that's the price to pay) to not resolve level 17/68, which should be just barely visible anyway, rather than to raise the black floor and kill native and dynamic contrast. But of course, it's up to you!

Quick notes for nVidia HTPC/MadVR users [others please skip]: the magenta bug present on the rs500 at 4K60 8bits in 385.28 and for all 8bits resolutions in all recent drivers including the latest is gone, which is great news. This means 8bits becomes usable, and leaving MadVR dither to 8bits might be a better option than forcing 12bits out because levels are still borked in 12bits with recent drivers. [EDIT 01/03/19: I found the reason for this: there is a bug in the new models that force YCC422 behind madVR's back when RGB 12bits is selected in the nVidia CP. The driver sends RGB 12bits, the JVC reports RGB 12bits, but in reality it's forcing YCC422. JVC knows about the bug, so hopefully they will fix it in an upcoming f/w update]. Also if you had custom refresh rates created with MadVR or CRU, they are most likely not going to be valid anymore. If you end up with a green screen with your HTPC, your projector isn't defective, this is why . Simply delete the custom refresh and the green screen will go away. I haven't had the time to recreate custom refresh modes or finetune settings for nVidia/MadVR, but when I do I'll try to post some advice in a MadVR section or thread, along with recommended settings for MadVR for HDR and SDR, both for playback and calibration, after the next public build of MadVR is released. In the meantime, please don't ask anything specifically about MadVR/nVidia in this thread or it will quickly become a mess and non HTPC/MadVR users will hate you.

In all modes:
I set all MPC values to zero and I switch all the CMD options to off (except in my Sports mode). This is a personal preference, but I haven't really tried the new CMD. I hear the Soap Opera Effect (that I personally dislike with film content) usually associated with CMD even on low is reduced, so I'll give it a try when I have more time. I haven't experienced the yellow tint (most likely gamma shift) reported by some when switching the DI on with these settings, so it might help if you are seeing these shifts. HDMI sync time is vastly improved over the older models (from more than 20 secs in my case to around 7 secs), so very happy with that very significant improvement. [EDIT: I did experience the yellow shift with the DI, and it's not caused by CMD options. JVC are working on a fix. Also some nasty artifacts can appear when using Motion Enhance, so my recommendation to keep that off along with CMD stands].

Regarding the DI, it still causes some gamma artifacts in scenes where I notice this with the rs500. For example, try Mission Impossible: Fallout Out and look at the car headlights in the scene starting at 00:05:57. Beware, not everyone notices these artifacts and some are happily using the DI with a fully open iris. Once seen, you can't unsee it, so please don't look for it if you're happy with the DI generally, there is nothing wrong with that. Apparently the DI is improved in others situations. It doesn't close down as far as on my rs500 and it's much slower (up to four seconds to fully close), so it doesn't pump as much on credits, but the downside is that the fade to black is not as good. I really hope that JVC will give us an Auto 3 setting with zero gamma manipulation (none whatsoever), and a DI that would only close as much as possible on fade to black, at least twice as fast as the current Auto 2 setting. I'll post detailed brightness and contrast measurements with/without the DI in the advanced section soon [EDIT: done].

The gamma artifacts (for those who notice them) are usually worse if the manual iris is fully open. That's the setting that gives the highest dynamic contrast. The closer the manual iris, the lower the multiplier, the less artifacts. This makes them more visible in HDR for example, as most will have a manual iris more open to play HDR content than to play SDR content. So the lower the manual iris settings, the less gamma (and pumping) artifacts.

I haven't had the time to do a full analysis of the dynamic iris, but if you see issues, try either switching the DI off, or try closing the iris further. In the rs500, there is no gamma artifact with the manual iris at -15, very few with the iris at -10, more with the iris at -5 and quite a lot with the iris fully open.

If you can use low lamp and fan noise/heat isn't an issue, it could be an option to use high lamp instead with a lower manual iris setting to reach the same peak brightness. This should not only reduce the DI gamma artifacts, it should also provide more native (but less dynamic) contrast. So experimenting with these options, if available, could help.

[EDIT 16-02-19: there seems to be a bug with the DI as it causes a yellow shift, especially noticeable when coming out of black. It wasn't visible with patterns, but it's definitely there with actual content, for example at the beginning of Mad Max Fury Road, when we fade in on Furiosa's neck. For this reason, I recommend to switch the DI off until this is fixed. JVC are aware of the issue and a new f/w is expected in March].

Again, if you don't see DI artifacts, don't start looking for them and enjoy the DI. But if you do, you know what to do.

Recommended settings for SDR Rec-709 HD content (Bluray, HD sat, etc):
You can simply select Natural, which is very close to reference, at least on my unit (see the measurements in the advanced section).
I prefer to have a separate mode for film and TV content, so I use Natural for TV (with CMD on low, that's my sports mode) and User 1 for film content. My HD Fury Maestro switches automatically between both (I'll post details on this in the HD Fury section later).
Whether you use Natural or a user mode, what you want is Rec-709, 6500K, in low or high lamp and with the manual iris setting that gives you the brightness that you want. Make sure the CMS is off. This should give you a gamut that tracks rec-709 very closely.

The cinema mode uses the P3 filter and kind of tracks DCI-P3 (so is not meant to be used with any consumer content). It doesn't track P3 as well as the DCI-P3 color profile though, so I wouldn't use it as it is. Film is of no interest if you're after reference. If you like either of these, feel free to use them of course. I might use the cinema slot for other content selecting rec-709/6500K (3D for example) to save a user mode, but I wouldn't use it as it is. Film is not usable as it doesn't offer any standard options, so it's a lost mode as far as I'm concerned.

To get 60-70nits in rec-709 / 6500K, I had the iris at -12 on my 88" diag 16/9 Carada BW (effective nominal gain). -13 only gave me 40-50nits, and I wanted some headroom for later calibration as I'll probably lose a bit later (with the Autocal and 3D LUT). As I get above 120nits in HDR (about twice as much), that's still a nice dynamic range improvement.

For gamma, I recommend selecting a 2.4 gamma (sadly 2.3 isn't an option, only 2.2, 2.4 and 2.6 are selectable). It would be great to have 2.3 and 2.5 as well, but the gamma picture tone control allows to get there easily. [EDIT: there are more gamma options if you select custom gamma, so that's a way to select 2.3 and 2.5]. I had to raise it to +3 to roughly get 2.4 over the range as gamma was a bit too high otherwise. Then if you want BT1886, you most probably need to raise dark gamma a few clicks (+3 here). On my unit, simply moving picture tone to +3 and dark gamma to +3 gave me a very decent BT1886 curve (see the advanced section for measurements). Results could be improved further with the Autocal (manually with the 12-point parametric controls or automatically) but the results were very good after a just a few clicks on the gamma controls. There is unit to unit variation, so the above is only for information. You can try without a meter, but most likely YMMV.


Recommended settings for 3D content:
You need to set either cinema mode or a user mode to rec-709 / 6500K. You can use any lamp/iris setting you want (I would suggest high lamp fully open with the DI on). I haven't done any test on 3D yet, so I won't make more specific recommendations until I find the time to do so or others I trust post their recommended 3D settings. I would suspect that setting CMD on low should work well especially for animation if you like that in 3D. I'll update this part when I find the time to test 3D.


Recommended settings for UHD Blurays doing the tonemapping internally and sending SDR BT2020 using the full dynamic range (UB820, Oppo 203/205, etc):
I recommend selecting a user mode (I use User Mode 2 for this) and selecting the BT2020 color profile (or the HDR color profile if your model doesn't have a P3 filter, such as the N5/RS1000), 6500K color temp, gamma 2.4, iris fully open in low or high lamp, and adjust tonemapping settings on the source. I haven't tested this myself yet, but that should give the most correct results. If you are brightness starved and are happy to sacrifice saturation to brightness (100% of P3 to around 85% on my unit) to avoid losing around 20% brightness with the P3 filter, you can select the HDR color profile instead. [Edit 16-02/19: it looks like in high lamp the filter only cuts 10% (15% gain from no filter), which might explain why the numbers are all over the place. I posted detailed measurements in the contrast section showing the delta for BT2020 and HDR in high lamp, iris open, both native and dynamic.]

Note: For older models such as the UB900, I would (off memory, I haven't re-tested this recently) recommend a peak white of no more than 100nits, because I think that's what these units do. They don't use the whole dynamic range of the display/projector like the UB820/Oppos, they simply map to standard HDR, so 100nits peak for flat panels.


Recommended settings for UHD Sources expecting the display to do the tonemapping (UHD Bluray players, mediaplayers sending HDR as HDR):
I recommend using the HDR10 factory mode, and selecting the BT2020 color profile (or the HDR color profile if your model doesn't have a P3 filter, such as the N5/RS1000), 6500K color temp, PQ gamma, iris fully open (best dynamic on/off) in low lamp or high lamp. If you don't use the DI and have some brightness in reserve, you might want to lower the manual iris setting to increase native on/off and lower the black floor. The BT2020 color profile track BT2020 container saturations very well, up to almost 75% of P3. It covers 99% of P3 on my unit, due to a very slight undersaturation on red. Green and blue fully meet their targets. Of course this will vary unit per unit.

As above, if you are brightness starved (or if your model doesn't have a P3 filter), selecting the HDR color profile will give you more brightness at the expense of saturation, and the saturations will still track very well up to around 85% of P3. After that, it will clip content. Note that I believe I'm on the low side regarding gamut cover with this unit. I would expect a typical unit to reach 100-105% of P3 with the filter and 85-90% without. We'll know more when more units are measured, but I guess this one is within specs.

There isn't much actual content at the edge of the P3 gamut currently. As saturations track BT2020 well both with the BT2020 and HDR color profiles, selecting HDR to gain brightness if you need it is a perfectly sound compromise. RS1000/NX5 owners shouldn't worry about the absence of filter, it's definitely not mandatory to get excellent results, on all models.

With the HDR color profile selected (BT2020 no filter) or on the RS1000/NX5, you should still be getting something midway between rec-709 and P3: rec-709 is around 70% of P3, HDR (no filter) is around 85% of P3, and BT2020 with the filter is close to 100% of P3, at least on my unit.

This being said, given that a wide color gamut is one of the benefits of HDR titles, I personally take all I can on the RS2000, thanks to my puny screen.

Also, as there is more and more content mastered to BT2020 and not P3, once there starts to be content beyond P3, more content will be clipped if HDR is selected.

So my advice is of course to use the HDR color profile if you can't get at least 50-75nits peak white in HDR with your current screen. I get 120nits (40fL) using BT2020 and with good tonemapping this is more than enough. In fact with good dynamic tonemapping, you can get excellent results even with only 50nits peak white in HDR.

On the other hand, if you're about to purchase a screen and want to future-proof your install, I would carefully think about its size and gain and discuss this with your installer before doing so in order to try, if you can, to get at least 75nits peak white with the filter enabled in HDR (so BT2020 color profile), and preferably around 100nits if at all possible. If bringing the seats closer is an option in your room, it might be preferable to getting the maximum screen size you can get in SDR and then have to hobble the HDR picture further than it could be. Or adding a DCR A-lens to get 35-38% more brightness using the full panel, if you don't already have one and can afford it, as the new JVCs now support it. .

For me a 20% hit on brightness [EDIT 16-02-19: in low lamp, it looks like the cut is only 10% in high lamp] is a price I'm very happy to pay, again with good tonemapping. Getting 50fL (150nits) peak brightness for HDR is not mandatory in my opinion, provided you are using a good (professional) calibration or dynamic tonemapping.

Those stating that 50fL is needed in HDR for projectors are either unable to calibrate the projector with good custom curves or are not familiar with what good tonemapping (especially dynamic) can do with 30fL, or even 20fL.

50fL is only needed to show shadow details with all titles if a good balance hasn't been found between brightness and highlights. It's certainly not mandatory.

For MadVR users [others please skip]:
I recommend using MadVR's pixel shader dynamic tonemapping with the JVC, as it is excellent. It provides better than HDR10+ results with HDR10 content, and will be available in the next public release of MadVR (at the moment it's only test builds in an experimental thread and there is no support there). If you do this, use the SDR BT2020 mode above and tell MadVR that your display is already calibrated to BT2020 and gamma 2.4.

If you use a MadVR 3D LUT to correct this even further, you have to use a gamma 2.2 target for the LUT (it doesn't matter what the target is on the display baseline, so feel free to use 2.4 to make it compatible with another source). Also in that case I recommend not using an SDR BT2020 LUT and targeting DCI-P3 instead to limit posterization issues. MadVR will tonemap to P3 (in fact simply discarding the BT2020 container in most cases). Again, please do *not* ask questions about MadVR in this thread. I will try to post detailed HDR calibration and playback settings for MadVR users after the next public build of MadVR is released. In the meantime, please use other MadVR support threads to ask questions.
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