Originally Posted by Run&Gun
Since the only real thread on this seems to be the announcement thread started last year, lets start an owner's thread, now.
So, I've had mine since a little before Thanksgiving, but just got it installed a few days ago, because of the snafu with the Elite Screens screen and trying to reschedule the screen install between my dealer/installers schedule and mine.
It replaced a Mitsubishi WD 92842 92" rear projection DLP set.
My set-up: LG HU85LA 4K UST projector, Elite Screens 120" Aeon Edge Free StarBright CLR UST screen(velcro) and all of my existing components which partially include a Yamaha RX-V3900 and Paradigm speakers(center, L/R towers, sub and in ceiling surrounds) from my original 2008 set-up.
The screen was a complete cluster F and I will probably be pushing for ES to swap it with a new spring tensioned model once they're in-stock again, because this one has a wave/wrinkles in the top left that goes towards the right about a third of the way across and down maybe an 1/8 of the screen that my installers could not get out. But the screen material itself performs really well in my set-up.
The projector itself is fairly large and is a little wider than my center channel that it sits behind, but not as tall. All of the connections are on the back side. The biggest downside of its design is it's WHITE. WTF?
Okay, out of the box the image is garish and painful to look at. I can't think of ANY scenario or environment, even a showroom, where this would look even remotely good. But once you dial it down to one of the Expert settings, just so you can start making some adjustments, it's better. Getting it lined up can be finicky. It is incredibly sensitive to even the slightest movement. I have carpet and just walking within a foot or two the component cabinet it's sitting on top of moves the image, so keep that in mind as you're trying to get it in place. You want to have the projector and screen as square as possible to each other. At the extreme angles and close distances, it literally only takes a hair to be "off". The focus adjustment breathes a lot and can change the size of the image immensely. The "Edge Adjustment" is a 12 point system, but I think the corners, at least start out only moving in, so you want to try to get it as dead-nuts-on with just the physical placement of the projector, as possible from the get go and only use the Edge Adjustment if you have to. Obviously this is easier said than done.
Once you get the projector and screen lined up, then the fun starts: Dialing in the picture. As I said earlier, out of the box in the Vivid or Standard profiles it is horrible and quite disappointing that they would ship a $5K-$6K projector with preset picture profiles that look like that. Clowns would look at the image and say, "That's too much". Since I don't have any calibration equipment, I just used the numbers that Home Theater HiFi published in their review. I know that that's not calibrating it, because it doesn't take into account any of the variation in my copy or for my particular screen and environment compared to theirs, but it is somewhere to start. And it makes a huge difference.
So far, I've been fairly pleased with the image. My viewing environment is pretty dark. Not dedicated theater dark, but pretty close. The screen is on the west wall. There's never any direct sunlight, because I have dark curtains over the east facing bay window(but there would only be direct sunlight for a little while in the mornings if they were open, anyway) and wooden blinds over the two north facing windows that flank the fireplace and the south wall only has a door that leads to the rest of the house. And the walls are all wood paneling. So, pretty good conditions.
It's like watching a giant flat panel. With bright and colorful content, like live sports, I can watch with normal lighting on in the room(my normal is pretty dark: usually a couple of dim lamps, unless my GF turns on the overheads to do something) and it's not noticeable on screen, unless they go to a lot of dark content. In fact, it's better than the rear projection set, because there are no reflections, because there's no shiny screen. The image and brightness is pretty much completely uniform from corner to corner to the naked eye and the viewing angle is HUGE with the ES UST Screen. Pretty much wherever you want to sit. My Mitsubishi was pretty bad in comparison. It has a very contrasty image. Not as good as my OLED, but again, better than my Mitsubishi. Mortal Combat 11 looks sick. With darker content, like movies, shows, etc. you'll want to turn off all the lights or as much as possible. It'll still be watchable, but definitely not as enjoyable. I've watched the last few episodes of The Witcher and a few episodes of The Crown on it via the built-in Netflix app(and feeding the audio to my receiver via optical), which streams them in 4K and HDR. One scene in The Crown was a bunch of photographers taking flash pictures and it kind of hurt my eyes a little, but I was in a completely dark room. It would have probably been much worse on my OLED in the bedroom.
If you play video games, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE GAME PROFILE. The delay is so bad that it is unplayable using the Expert profile that I'm using for normal viewing. You can literally hit the button on the controller and let go and THEN watch the on-screen action, but using the Game profile after adjusting it, it was no worse than the Mitsubishi. Totally useable, at that point. It does have an auto-detect "instant game response" option, but my Xbox, PS and Wii U are all hooked up through my receiver which is about 12 years old, so I'm sure they can't talk to each other to enable that.
I've seen some people complain about the lack of native built-in apps. It does come with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube and Google and you can download a few more, like Showtime, but you'll have to go with an AppleTV 4K or FirestickTV 4K if you want other things like Disney, etc. and in 4K/UHD.
The Magic Remote. It communicates everything from the remote via RF(bluetooth or wifi, I'm not sure), EXCEPT the ON/OFF command. That is still IR. What?! I had to slide my center channel over a little to expose the IR eye. But that means I can still use my Harmony One. I just have to get it set-up, because there are a lot of commands that are not in the Logitech database for this remote and I don't know of the remote is spitting any of them out via IR to learn, except ON/OFF. The database doesn't even have the Play and Pause command. Yes, that's not an LG problem per se, but an annoyance, still.
Booting up in the wrong profile. I have a similar problem on my LG OLED in the bedroom, when it comes out of an HDR program, it doesn't switch out of that profile, even though it says it's in the correct profile, you have to change it and then go back to it to get out of it. With the HU85 when I first turn it on, it's starting up in a default profile, even though it says it's in my selected profile, so I'll have to do the same thing: go to the picture profiles, change it to another one and then go back to the correct one.
Motion Interpolation/Smoothing. Sorta like the OLED's, even in OFF or USER:0, it seems like there is still a tick of something going on sometimes.
I'm sure I'm leaving some stuff out, but this will get it started.
Here's a quick pic I snapped with my iPhone from my recliner a little while ago with two lamps and Christmas lights on on the mantle and a Christmas tree about 18' in front of the screen.
Thanks for the great review. Just want to check with u on the input lag for gaming. I do game a lot on fifa and the xbox will be connecting to the receiver like yours. On paper i think this projector is around 55ms. Is it still that bad? Did you managed to fix that?