Official LG HU85 UST Projector Owners Thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 61 Old 04-10-2020, 09:24 PM
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Here's what I'm seeing. Is this much light bleed normal or do I have a bad unit?
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post #32 of 61 Old 04-11-2020, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kaggy View Post
Here's what I'm seeing. Is this much light bleed normal or do I have a bad unit?
Want to make sure I understand what these pictures show. I see a green rectangle, surrounded by a thin black line, surrounded by a dark grey/black rectangle, surrounded by a lighter colored rectangle, then what I assume is wall.

Is the thin black line the screen frame? And the dark grey/black rectangle the shadow of the screen? And the lighter colored rectangle the light bleed?'

If so, there's no way that can be to spec IMO. I don't have this PJ but am considering it, and there's no way I'd accept that.

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post #33 of 61 Old 04-11-2020, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by anthonymoody View Post
Want to make sure I understand what these pictures show. I see a green rectangle, surrounded by a thin black line, surrounded by a dark grey/black rectangle, surrounded by a lighter colored rectangle, then what I assume is wall.

Is the thin black line the screen frame? And the dark grey/black rectangle the shadow of the screen? And the lighter colored rectangle the light bleed?'

If so, there's no way that can be to spec IMO. I don't have this PJ but am considering it, and there's no way I'd accept that.


Yes thats correct. The thin black line is the screen frame. The dark gray is the shadow of the screen and the lighter "halo" is the light bleed on a white wall. It's quite noticeable that even my wife asked about it and she usually doesn't notice these things. I've already ordered a replacement to compare.

Other than this issue, the picture quality is phenomenal. Puts my VW885ES to shame. With the CLR screen, it looks just like a huge OLED screen, especially at night.
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post #34 of 61 Old 04-11-2020, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by kaggy View Post
Yes thats correct. The thin black line is the screen frame. The dark gray is the shadow of the screen and the lighter "halo" is the light bleed on a white wall. It's quite noticeable that even my wife asked about it and she usually doesn't notice these things. I've already ordered a replacement to compare.

Other than this issue, the picture quality is phenomenal. Puts my VW885ES to shame. With the CLR screen, it looks just like a huge OLED screen, especially at night.
Gotcha. Hopefully the replacement is much better in this regard! Following with interest...

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post #35 of 61 Old 04-11-2020, 05:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I'm seeing. Is this much light bleed normal or do I have a bad unit?
That looks a lot worse than mine. When I do notice it, it is only really on the right side and it is about 6" away from the edge of the screen. Also, my walls are wood paneling and my screen is "floating" about 2" off of the wall.
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post #36 of 61 Old 04-15-2020, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
Yes, they are incredibly sensitive to the slightest adjustment. It can be a little frustrating. Someone needs to come up with an adjustment plate to sit them on so that you can precisely manipulate the projector in very fine increments on all five axis. I've adjusted mine many times since the initial installation about a month ago. I had it nailed with very little edged adjustment used and almost no "light leak" visible(only on one side and you had to kind of know it was there) and came home the other night and I guess my dogs had bumped the center channel and moved it slightly and I haven't been able to walk it back into that "perfect" spot yet. I currently have a huge amount of edge adjustment dialed in and "light leak" visible on the top and both sides. Something else, the focus adjustment can greatly affect the image placement/size/"light leak" visibility, as well.
Problem is your screen is usually not flat nor the wall it is on.
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And to add insult to injury, a few days ago my screen started getting waves in the upper left AGAIN(Velcro fastening ES screen). I think at this point, I'm going to ask them to replace it under warranty with a spring tensioned model once they get them in-stock, again. It was horrible after the initial installation, but started to straighten itself out and had my installer come back out about three weeks later and they got it perfect, but it's only lasted about a week.
Ya that's no good, I would be doing the same.
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post #37 of 61 Old 04-15-2020, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Problem is your screen is usually not flat nor the wall it is on.
Ya that's no good, I would be doing the same.
I haven't personally checked it with a plumb line, but my screen was professionally installed and they did build shims/spacers to go between the bottom of the screen and wall to make sure it was square/completely vertical. I actually think being able to tilt the screen slightly(fractions of an inch) fore-aft may help with alignment with the projector(make it easier).

I'm actually wondering if there is something wrong with my copy of this projector. Every other day I'm having to tweak the Edge Adjustment. But usually just the top and sides. The bottom seems to stay lined up(or at least close enough you don't notice). For example it usually goes like this: If it is overshooting, I'll adjust it back into the frame. Then the next time, a day or two later, the image is then slightly too small and I have to adjust it back out to the edge of the screen. Wash, rinse, repeat. I actually need to adjust it right now- back out to fill the screen on the top and sides. Mostly the top. And bottom looks fine.
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post #38 of 61 Old 04-17-2020, 08:10 AM
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Mine stays locked on focus and alignment. Are you sure your screen isnt warping or moving somehow?
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post #39 of 61 Old 04-17-2020, 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
I'm sure I'm leaving some stuff out, but this will get it started.

Here's a quick pic I snapped with my iPhone from my recliner a little while ago with two lamps and Christmas lights on on the mantle and a Christmas tree about 18' in front of the screen.
Nice!

I must admit there is a certain je ne sais quoi with UST projectors that is really compelling.

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post #40 of 61 Old 04-17-2020, 08:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
I haven't personally checked it with a plumb line, but my screen was professionally installed and they did build shims/spacers to go between the bottom of the screen and wall to make sure it was square/completely vertical. I actually think being able to tilt the screen slightly(fractions of an inch) fore-aft may help with alignment with the projector(make it easier).

I'm actually wondering if there is something wrong with my copy of this projector. Every other day I'm having to tweak the Edge Adjustment. But usually just the top and sides. The bottom seems to stay lined up(or at least close enough you don't notice). For example it usually goes like this: If it is overshooting, I'll adjust it back into the frame. Then the next time, a day or two later, the image is then slightly too small and I have to adjust it back out to the edge of the screen. Wash, rinse, repeat. I actually need to adjust it right now- back out to fill the screen on the top and sides. Mostly the top. And bottom looks fine.
Have you tried over sizing the image to roughly the same degree and seeing if it shrinks to fit, thereby 'solving' your problem?

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post #41 of 61 Old 04-17-2020, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by kaggy View Post
Yes thats correct. The thin black line is the screen frame. The dark gray is the shadow of the screen and the lighter "halo" is the light bleed on a white wall. It's quite noticeable that even my wife asked about it and she usually doesn't notice these things. I've already ordered a replacement to compare.

Other than this issue, the picture quality is phenomenal. Puts my VW885ES to shame. With the CLR screen, it looks just like a huge OLED screen, especially at night.
Interesting. I wonder if it would beat the VPL-VZ1000ES which is essentially a VW760 in a UST dress?

I bet this puppy is quite a bit cheaper than the 1000 though, so that probably makes it a win in any case.

Those 700 extra lumens must give it some useful extra brightness.

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post #42 of 61 Old 05-08-2020, 12:05 AM
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I just got one of these installed today. Somehow, the cabinet maker or the home theater installer screwed up dimensions and, as a result, the projector is sitting about 1/2 an inch too high to fill my screen. The installer thought maybe it would be possible to take off the feet to drop it down, but he said they didn't completely remove. Anyone know if there's a way to remove them?
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post #43 of 61 Old 05-08-2020, 06:49 AM
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Since the only real thread on this seems to be the announcement thread started last year, lets start an owner's thread, now.

So, I've had mine since a little before Thanksgiving, but just got it installed a few days ago, because of the snafu with the Elite Screens screen and trying to reschedule the screen install between my dealer/installers schedule and mine.

It replaced a Mitsubishi WD 92842 92" rear projection DLP set.

My set-up: LG HU85LA 4K UST projector, Elite Screens 120" Aeon Edge Free StarBright CLR UST screen(velcro) and all of my existing components which partially include a Yamaha RX-V3900 and Paradigm speakers(center, L/R towers, sub and in ceiling surrounds) from my original 2008 set-up.

The screen was a complete cluster F and I will probably be pushing for ES to swap it with a new spring tensioned model once they're in-stock again, because this one has a wave/wrinkles in the top left that goes towards the right about a third of the way across and down maybe an 1/8 of the screen that my installers could not get out. But the screen material itself performs really well in my set-up.

The projector itself is fairly large and is a little wider than my center channel that it sits behind, but not as tall. All of the connections are on the back side. The biggest downside of its design is it's WHITE. WTF?

Okay, out of the box the image is garish and painful to look at. I can't think of ANY scenario or environment, even a showroom, where this would look even remotely good. But once you dial it down to one of the Expert settings, just so you can start making some adjustments, it's better. Getting it lined up can be finicky. It is incredibly sensitive to even the slightest movement. I have carpet and just walking within a foot or two the component cabinet it's sitting on top of moves the image, so keep that in mind as you're trying to get it in place. You want to have the projector and screen as square as possible to each other. At the extreme angles and close distances, it literally only takes a hair to be "off". The focus adjustment breathes a lot and can change the size of the image immensely. The "Edge Adjustment" is a 12 point system, but I think the corners, at least start out only moving in, so you want to try to get it as dead-nuts-on with just the physical placement of the projector, as possible from the get go and only use the Edge Adjustment if you have to. Obviously this is easier said than done.

Once you get the projector and screen lined up, then the fun starts: Dialing in the picture. As I said earlier, out of the box in the Vivid or Standard profiles it is horrible and quite disappointing that they would ship a $5K-$6K projector with preset picture profiles that look like that. Clowns would look at the image and say, "That's too much". Since I don't have any calibration equipment, I just used the numbers that Home Theater HiFi published in their review. I know that that's not calibrating it, because it doesn't take into account any of the variation in my copy or for my particular screen and environment compared to theirs, but it is somewhere to start. And it makes a huge difference.

So far, I've been fairly pleased with the image. My viewing environment is pretty dark. Not dedicated theater dark, but pretty close. The screen is on the west wall. There's never any direct sunlight, because I have dark curtains over the east facing bay window(but there would only be direct sunlight for a little while in the mornings if they were open, anyway) and wooden blinds over the two north facing windows that flank the fireplace and the south wall only has a door that leads to the rest of the house. And the walls are all wood paneling. So, pretty good conditions.

It's like watching a giant flat panel. With bright and colorful content, like live sports, I can watch with normal lighting on in the room(my normal is pretty dark: usually a couple of dim lamps, unless my GF turns on the overheads to do something) and it's not noticeable on screen, unless they go to a lot of dark content. In fact, it's better than the rear projection set, because there are no reflections, because there's no shiny screen. The image and brightness is pretty much completely uniform from corner to corner to the naked eye and the viewing angle is HUGE with the ES UST Screen. Pretty much wherever you want to sit. My Mitsubishi was pretty bad in comparison. It has a very contrasty image. Not as good as my OLED, but again, better than my Mitsubishi. Mortal Combat 11 looks sick. With darker content, like movies, shows, etc. you'll want to turn off all the lights or as much as possible. It'll still be watchable, but definitely not as enjoyable. I've watched the last few episodes of The Witcher and a few episodes of The Crown on it via the built-in Netflix app(and feeding the audio to my receiver via optical), which streams them in 4K and HDR. One scene in The Crown was a bunch of photographers taking flash pictures and it kind of hurt my eyes a little, but I was in a completely dark room. It would have probably been much worse on my OLED in the bedroom.

If you play video games, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE GAME PROFILE. The delay is so bad that it is unplayable using the Expert profile that I'm using for normal viewing. You can literally hit the button on the controller and let go and THEN watch the on-screen action, but using the Game profile after adjusting it, it was no worse than the Mitsubishi. Totally useable, at that point. It does have an auto-detect "instant game response" option, but my Xbox, PS and Wii U are all hooked up through my receiver which is about 12 years old, so I'm sure they can't talk to each other to enable that.

Quirks

I've seen some people complain about the lack of native built-in apps. It does come with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube and Google and you can download a few more, like Showtime, but you'll have to go with an AppleTV 4K or FirestickTV 4K if you want other things like Disney, etc. and in 4K/UHD.

The Magic Remote. It communicates everything from the remote via RF(bluetooth or wifi, I'm not sure), EXCEPT the ON/OFF command. That is still IR. What?! I had to slide my center channel over a little to expose the IR eye. But that means I can still use my Harmony One. I just have to get it set-up, because there are a lot of commands that are not in the Logitech database for this remote and I don't know of the remote is spitting any of them out via IR to learn, except ON/OFF. The database doesn't even have the Play and Pause command. Yes, that's not an LG problem per se, but an annoyance, still.

Booting up in the wrong profile. I have a similar problem on my LG OLED in the bedroom, when it comes out of an HDR program, it doesn't switch out of that profile, even though it says it's in the correct profile, you have to change it and then go back to it to get out of it. With the HU85 when I first turn it on, it's starting up in a default profile, even though it says it's in my selected profile, so I'll have to do the same thing: go to the picture profiles, change it to another one and then go back to the correct one.

Motion Interpolation/Smoothing. Sorta like the OLED's, even in OFF or USER:0, it seems like there is still a tick of something going on sometimes.

I'm sure I'm leaving some stuff out, but this will get it started.

Here's a quick pic I snapped with my iPhone from my recliner a little while ago with two lamps and Christmas lights on on the mantle and a Christmas tree about 18' in front of the screen.
Thanks for the great review. Just want to check with u on the input lag for gaming. I do game a lot on fifa and the xbox will be connecting to the receiver like yours. On paper i think this projector is around 55ms. Is it still that bad? Did you managed to fix that?

Thanks!
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post #44 of 61 Old 05-08-2020, 10:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the great review. Just want to check with u on the input lag for gaming. I do game a lot on fifa and the xbox will be connecting to the receiver like yours. On paper i think this projector is around 55ms. Is it still that bad? Did you managed to fix that?

Thanks!
On Game Mode, it's fine for me. I mostly play Mortal Kombat on XBOX. Haven't played any FPS's since I've gotten this set-up and don't play on-line against others, either. So, no complaints, other than having to manually switch the profile to GAME. But if I get a new receiver, I probably won't have to switch profiles manually, anymore.
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post #45 of 61 Old 05-10-2020, 06:59 PM
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I bought one of these in August 2019. I have been very happy with it so far but tonight I noticed a bright green spot that would not go away after rebooting or changing the inputs. I'm afraid it may be a dead/stuck pixel. Any suggestions about how to unstick it? I haven't been in contact with LG yet since it just appeared.
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post #46 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 05:03 AM
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I bought one of these in August 2019. I have been very happy with it so far but tonight I noticed a bright green spot that would not go away after rebooting or changing the inputs. I'm afraid it may be a dead/stuck pixel. Any suggestions about how to unstick it? I haven't been in contact with LG yet since it just appeared.

It looks a lot like a stuck micromirror and as far as I know it can't be repaired.
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post #47 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 05:58 AM
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Every time I ask this question I get roasted, buuut...

Any chance any of the vendors on this forum have heard whispers about the black HU85LA recently?
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post #48 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 10:00 AM - Thread Starter
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I bought one of these in August 2019. I have been very happy with it so far but tonight I noticed a bright green spot that would not go away after rebooting or changing the inputs. I'm afraid it may be a dead/stuck pixel. Any suggestions about how to unstick it? I haven't been in contact with LG yet since it just appeared.
You’re still in warranty, I’d definitely be calling LG and my dealer.
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post #49 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 10:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Every time I ask this question I get roasted, buuut...

Any chance any of the vendors on this forum have heard whispers about the black HU85LA recently?
I’d love to see it, but at the same time, I’d probably be a little mad, because I’m stuck with my white one. Although if they drag it out a few months longer, it might not be as bad. Definitely not as bad as if it had dropped right after I put mine in.
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post #50 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 10:54 AM
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What I really want is a firmware e-ARC update to that HDMI 2.0 port.
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post #51 of 61 Old 05-11-2020, 07:25 PM - Thread Starter
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What I really want is a firmware e-ARC update to that HDMI 2.0 port.
Some cursory reading tells me to not hold my breath. It stopped short of saying it's 100% not possible, but it's all dependent on the actual hardware that the manufacturer originally implemented in the device and then if they would chose to update it, if the hardware would allow it.
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post #52 of 61 Old 05-13-2020, 12:42 PM
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I bought one of these in August 2019. I have been very happy with it so far but tonight I noticed a bright green spot that would not go away after rebooting or changing the inputs. I'm afraid it may be a dead/stuck pixel. Any suggestions about how to unstick it? I haven't been in contact with LG yet since it just appeared.
Looks like a dead pixel caused by the DLP chip micro mirror getting damaged. Common issue with DLP projectors apparently. I have an Optoma P1 UST that just developed 2 dead pixels in the past couple weeks. Its about 4 months old so I am sending it out to get repaired by Optoma as it is under warranty. Have this LG coming in to test it out in the meantime.
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post #53 of 61 Old 05-15-2020, 07:46 PM
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As much as DLP is wonderful, it is mechanical as compared to SXRD/D-ILA and things like this will happen.

I would imagine LG will replace your light engine or perhaps just swap your unit out completely.
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post #54 of 61 Old 05-23-2020, 07:28 AM
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Looks like a dead pixel caused by the DLP chip micro mirror getting damaged. Common issue with DLP projectors apparently. I have an Optoma P1 UST that just developed 2 dead pixels in the past couple weeks. Its about 4 months old so I am sending it out to get repaired by Optoma as it is under warranty. Have this LG coming in to test it out in the meantime.
I sent it in for repairs. LG was very responsive by email, no issues. We'll see what happens.
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post #55 of 61 Old 06-22-2020, 11:36 AM
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UST 4k Laser projector.

Hello everyone.Hope you are all still safe!
I really hope someone would be able to help me out here with this.
Current situation- I live in a company flat on my own in middle east and frequently use freight forwarding service from US to get cheap stuff. Hence need a good product with worldwide warranty would be great. Relatively new in A/V world. Currently own 5.1.2 AVR setup with a HTPC and very well content with the sound. In video, currently a cheap ~$100 LED projector for a 135inch diagonal to try out/fill the gap while I make the big purchase.
Requirement -Taking into account current technology present is- A laser based ,4K HDR, short throw projector to go in my living room with reasonable light control with heavy curtains. Content wise- 60% streaming/HTPC movies, 30% console or PC solo gaming and 10% sports viewing.
Contenders-So far, LG HU85LA, Optima CinemaX P1,Optima CinemaX Pro. I have spent hours of reading avs, projector reviews, central and youtubing and splitting hairs and going in circles making up my mind. If somebody own any of these and can chime in with their experience it'll be a big help. These are the points I have so far to work with-
LG HU85LA- Pros*:* Better colors, single shift upscale to 4K, better contrast ratios, shorter throw distance.
Cons: Price, 2700ANSI lumen, 120inch official display
Optima cinemaX p1 Pros: Good value for money for image quality
Cons: Throw distance, double shift upscale, lag while gaming. 120 inch official
Optima cinemaX Pro Pros : Better contrast and Lumens (3500) supposedly
Cons : ? (cannot find any details/reviews online)

Also I can happily wait till November for Black Friday/Cyber Monday deals if they would save me some bucks significantly and/or a better product comes along in next few months.
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post #56 of 61 Old 06-27-2020, 11:07 AM
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Thumbs down UST Ceiling Mount

I'm in trouble. Just started framing a new house with a 24 x 40 foot "great room". Ceiling is 20 feet high. Because of the layout, a "regular projector" has to be about 28 feet away from the screen. I want to have a 100-120" diagonal screen dropping from a sofit above the fireplace. QUESTION: Are there any UST projectors that I can mount upside down? Basically it would be Fireplace wall with a sofit that houses a motorized tension screen AND the UST mounted upside down. Is my image going to suck because screens are biased to be viewed somewhat from "below"....but that is assuming the UST is below the screen as well, not above it? Because my ceiling is so high and the wall opposite the screen is 28 feet away, I don't think I have any choice but to hang a UST about 2 feet away from the fireplace wall, right?
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post #57 of 61 Old 06-27-2020, 11:12 AM
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LG HU85 UST upside down?

Can the LG HU85 UST be mounted upside down? Thinking about a "shelf" or sofit several feet above a screen, above a fireplace, with the LG upside down a couple of feet away.
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post #58 of 61 Old 06-27-2020, 04:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm not sure if it's recommended, but it's technically possible, because you can flip the image in the menu. Something to think about, the position of the projector to screen distances for UST's is strictly locked together depending on image size. At 120" the projector HAS to be exactly 7.2" in front of the screen and 10.1" inches below it(or above, if upside down).
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post #59 of 61 Old 07-04-2020, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbever View Post
I sent it in for repairs. LG was very responsive by email, no issues. We'll see what happens.

So I got the projector back after about 6 weeks. No updates from LG during the process. I had to call them a couple of times to see what was going on, and then it was a bunch of phone tag as you can imagine. Apparently the repairs are outsourced to HDTech in CA or a similar sounding company. No updates from that company nor LG. The projector showed back up yesterday unexpectedly YAY!


However I set it up again and NOTHING WAS FIXED! The stuck BRIGHT pixel is still there! I'm pissed! And they reset all the settings to factory defaults, although I pretty much expected that. This is very subpar customer service and repair. I'll reach out to them on Monday and start over I guess.
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post #60 of 61 Old 07-04-2020, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tbever View Post
So I got the projector back after about 6 weeks. No updates from LG during the process. I had to call them a couple of times to see what was going on, and then it was a bunch of phone tag as you can imagine. Apparently the repairs are outsourced to HDTech in CA or a similar sounding company. No updates from that company nor LG. The projector showed back up yesterday unexpectedly YAY!


However I set it up again and NOTHING WAS FIXED! The stuck BRIGHT pixel is still there! I'm pissed! And they reset all the settings to factory defaults, although I pretty much expected that. This is very subpar customer service and repair. I'll reach out to them on Monday and start over I guess.
That is terrible. It is an expensive projector too.

Maybe if you have the money, just return it and buy the Sony VPLVZ1000ES which is about $15,000 but I think you will get better service, true 4K image, quieter, has 3D, and may not easily have the dead pixel problem.
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