Official LG HU85 UST Projector Owners Thread - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 23 Old 01-05-2020, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Official LG HU85 UST Projector Owners Thread

Since the only real thread on this seems to be the announcement thread started last year, lets start an owner's thread, now.

So, I've had mine since a little before Thanksgiving, but just got it installed a few days ago, because of the snafu with the Elite Screens screen and trying to reschedule the screen install between my dealer/installers schedule and mine.

It replaced a Mitsubishi WD 92842 92" rear projection DLP set.

My set-up: LG HU85LA 4K UST projector, Elite Screens 120" Aeon Edge Free StarBright CLR UST screen(velcro) and all of my existing components which partially include a Yamaha RX-V3900 and Paradigm speakers(center, L/R towers, sub and in ceiling surrounds) from my original 2008 set-up.

The screen was a complete cluster F and I will probably be pushing for ES to swap it with a new spring tensioned model once they're in-stock again, because this one has a wave/wrinkles in the top left that goes towards the right about a third of the way across and down maybe an 1/8 of the screen that my installers could not get out. But the screen material itself performs really well in my set-up.

The projector itself is fairly large and is a little wider than my center channel that it sits behind, but not as tall. All of the connections are on the back side. The biggest downside of its design is it's WHITE. WTF?

Okay, out of the box the image is garish and painful to look at. I can't think of ANY scenario or environment, even a showroom, where this would look even remotely good. But once you dial it down to one of the Expert settings, just so you can start making some adjustments, it's better. Getting it lined up can be finicky. It is incredibly sensitive to even the slightest movement. I have carpet and just walking within a foot or two the component cabinet it's sitting on top of moves the image, so keep that in mind as you're trying to get it in place. You want to have the projector and screen as square as possible to each other. At the extreme angles and close distances, it literally only takes a hair to be "off". The focus adjustment breathes a lot and can change the size of the image immensely. The "Edge Adjustment" is a 12 point system, but I think the corners, at least start out only moving in, so you want to try to get it as dead-nuts-on with just the physical placement of the projector, as possible from the get go and only use the Edge Adjustment if you have to. Obviously this is easier said than done.

Once you get the projector and screen lined up, then the fun starts: Dialing in the picture. As I said earlier, out of the box in the Vivid or Standard profiles it is horrible and quite disappointing that they would ship a $5K-$6K projector with preset picture profiles that look like that. Clowns would look at the image and say, "That's too much". Since I don't have any calibration equipment, I just used the numbers that Home Theater HiFi published in their review. I know that that's not calibrating it, because it doesn't take into account any of the variation in my copy or for my particular screen and environment compared to theirs, but it is somewhere to start. And it makes a huge difference.

So far, I've been fairly pleased with the image. My viewing environment is pretty dark. Not dedicated theater dark, but pretty close. The screen is on the west wall. There's never any direct sunlight, because I have dark curtains over the east facing bay window(but there would only be direct sunlight for a little while in the mornings if they were open, anyway) and wooden blinds over the two north facing windows that flank the fireplace and the south wall only has a door that leads to the rest of the house. And the walls are all wood paneling. So, pretty good conditions.

It's like watching a giant flat panel. With bright and colorful content, like live sports, I can watch with normal lighting on in the room(my normal is pretty dark: usually a couple of dim lamps, unless my GF turns on the overheads to do something) and it's not noticeable on screen, unless they go to a lot of dark content. In fact, it's better than the rear projection set, because there are no reflections, because there's no shiny screen. The image and brightness is pretty much completely uniform from corner to corner to the naked eye and the viewing angle is HUGE with the ES UST Screen. Pretty much wherever you want to sit. My Mitsubishi was pretty bad in comparison. It has a very contrasty image. Not as good as my OLED, but again, better than my Mitsubishi. Mortal Combat 11 looks sick. With darker content, like movies, shows, etc. you'll want to turn off all the lights or as much as possible. It'll still be watchable, but definitely not as enjoyable. I've watched the last few episodes of The Witcher and a few episodes of The Crown on it via the built-in Netflix app(and feeding the audio to my receiver via optical), which streams them in 4K and HDR. One scene in The Crown was a bunch of photographers taking flash pictures and it kind of hurt my eyes a little, but I was in a completely dark room. It would have probably been much worse on my OLED in the bedroom.

If you play video games, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE GAME PROFILE. The delay is so bad that it is unplayable using the Expert profile that I'm using for normal viewing. You can literally hit the button on the controller and let go and THEN watch the on-screen action, but using the Game profile after adjusting it, it was no worse than the Mitsubishi. Totally useable, at that point. It does have an auto-detect "instant game response" option, but my Xbox, PS and Wii U are all hooked up through my receiver which is about 12 years old, so I'm sure they can't talk to each other to enable that.

Quirks

I've seen some people complain about the lack of native built-in apps. It does come with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube and Google and you can download a few more, like Showtime, but you'll have to go with an AppleTV 4K or FirestickTV 4K if you want other things like Disney, etc. and in 4K/UHD.

The Magic Remote. It communicates everything from the remote via RF(bluetooth or wifi, I'm not sure), EXCEPT the ON/OFF command. That is still IR. What?! I had to slide my center channel over a little to expose the IR eye. But that means I can still use my Harmony One. I just have to get it set-up, because there are a lot of commands that are not in the Logitech database for this remote and I don't know of the remote is spitting any of them out via IR to learn, except ON/OFF. The database doesn't even have the Play and Pause command. Yes, that's not an LG problem per se, but an annoyance, still.

Booting up in the wrong profile. I have a similar problem on my LG OLED in the bedroom, when it comes out of an HDR program, it doesn't switch out of that profile, even though it says it's in the correct profile, you have to change it and then go back to it to get out of it. With the HU85 when I first turn it on, it's starting up in a default profile, even though it says it's in my selected profile, so I'll have to do the same thing: go to the picture profiles, change it to another one and then go back to the correct one.

Motion Interpolation/Smoothing. Sorta like the OLED's, even in OFF or USER:0, it seems like there is still a tick of something going on sometimes.

I'm sure I'm leaving some stuff out, but this will get it started.

Here's a quick pic I snapped with my iPhone from my recliner a little while ago with two lamps and Christmas lights on on the mantle and a Christmas tree about 18' in front of the screen.
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post #2 of 23 Old 01-05-2020, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
Since the only real thread on this seems to be the announcement thread started last year, lets start an owner's thread, now.



So, I've had mine since a little before Thanksgiving, but just got it installed a few days ago, because of the snafu with the Elite Screens screen and trying to reschedule the screen install between my dealer/installers schedule and mine.



It replaced a Mitsubishi WD 92842 92" rear projection DLP set.



My set-up: LG HU85LA 4K UST projector, Elite Screens 120" Aeon Edge Free StarBright CLR UST screen(velcro) and all of my existing components which partially include a Yamaha RX-V3900 and Paradigm speakers(center, L/R towers, sub and in ceiling surrounds) from my original 2008 set-up.



The screen was a complete cluster F and I will probably be pushing for ES to swap it with a new spring tensioned model once they're in-stock again, because this one has a wave/wrinkles in the top left that goes towards the right about a third of the way across and down maybe an 1/8 of the screen that my installers could not get out. But the screen material itself performs really well in my set-up.



The projector itself is fairly large and is a little wider than my center channel that it sits behind, but not as tall. All of the connections are on the back side. The biggest downside of its design is it's WHITE. WTF?



Okay, out of the box the image is garish and painful to look at. I can't think of ANY scenario or environment, even a showroom, where this would look even remotely good. But once you dial it down to one of the Expert settings, just so you can start making some adjustments, it's better. Getting it lined up can be finicky. It is incredibly sensitive to even the slightest movement. I have carpet and just walking within a foot or two the component cabinet it's sitting on top of moves the image, so keep that in mind as you're trying to get it in place. You want to have the projector and screen as square as possible to each other. At the extreme angles and close distances, it literally only takes a hair to be "off". The focus adjustment breathes a lot and can change the size of the image immensely. The "Edge Adjustment" is a 12 point system, but I think the corners, at least start out only moving in, so you want to try to get it as dead-nuts-on with just the physical placement of the projector, as possible from the get go and only use the Edge Adjustment if you have to. Obviously this is easier said than done.



Once you get the projector and screen lined up, then the fun starts: Dialing in the picture. As I said earlier, out of the box in the Vivid or Standard profiles it is horrible and quite disappointing that they would ship a $5K-$6K projector with preset picture profiles that look like that. Clowns would look at the image and say, "That's too much". Since I don't have any calibration equipment, I just used the numbers that Home Theater HiFi published in their review. I know that that's not calibrating it, because it doesn't take into account any of the variation in my copy or for my particular screen and environment compared to theirs, but it is somewhere to start. And it makes a huge difference.



So far, I've been fairly pleased with the image. My viewing environment is pretty dark. Not dedicated theater dark, but pretty close. The screen is on the west wall. There's never any direct sunlight, because I have dark curtains over the east facing bay window(but there would only be direct sunlight for a little while in the mornings if they were open, anyway) and wooden blinds over the two north facing windows that flank the fireplace and the south wall only has a door that leads to the rest of the house. And the walls are all wood paneling. So, pretty good conditions.



It's like watching a giant flat panel. With bright and colorful content, like live sports, I can watch with normal lighting on in the room(my normal is pretty dark: usually a couple of dim lamps, unless my GF turns on the overheads to do something) and it's not noticeable on screen, unless they go to a lot of dark content. In fact, it's better than the rear projection set, because there are no reflections, because there's no shiny screen. The image and brightness is pretty much completely uniform from corner to corner to the naked eye and the viewing angle is HUGE with the ES UST Screen. Pretty much wherever you want to sit. My Mitsubishi was pretty bad in comparison. It has a very contrasty image. Not as good as my OLED, but again, better than my Mitsubishi. Mortal Combat 11 looks sick. With darker content, like movies, shows, etc. you'll want to turn off all the lights or as much as possible. It'll still be watchable, but definitely not as enjoyable. I've watched the last few episodes of The Witcher and a few episodes of The Crown on it via the built-in Netflix app(and feeding the audio to my receiver via optical), which streams them in 4K and HDR. One scene in The Crown was a bunch of photographers taking flash pictures and it kind of hurt my eyes a little, but I was in a completely dark room. It would have probably been much worse on my OLED in the bedroom.



If you play video games, YOU WILL HAVE TO USE THE GAME PROFILE. The delay is so bad that it is unplayable using the Expert profile that I'm using for normal viewing. You can literally hit the button on the controller and let go and THEN watch the on-screen action, but using the Game profile after adjusting it, it was no worse than the Mitsubishi. Totally useable, at that point. It does have an auto-detect "instant game response" option, but my Xbox, PS and Wii U are all hooked up through my receiver which is about 12 years old, so I'm sure they can't talk to each other to enable that.



Quirks



I've seen some people complain about the lack of native built-in apps. It does come with Netflix, Amazon, YouTube and Google and you can download a few more, like Showtime, but you'll have to go with an AppleTV 4K or FirestickTV 4K if you want other things like Disney, etc. and in 4K/UHD.



The Magic Remote. It communicates everything from the remote via RF(bluetooth or wifi, I'm not sure), EXCEPT the ON/OFF command. That is still IR. What?! I had to slide my center channel over a little to expose the IR eye. But that means I can still use my Harmony One. I just have to get it set-up, because there are a lot of commands that are not in the Logitech database for this remote and I don't know of the remote is spitting any of them out via IR to learn, except ON/OFF. The database doesn't even have the Play and Pause command. Yes, that's not an LG problem per se, but an annoyance, still.



Booting up in the wrong profile. I have a similar problem on my LG OLED in the bedroom, when it comes out of an HDR program, it doesn't switch out of that profile, even though it says it's in the correct profile, you have to change it and then go back to it to get out of it. With the HU85 when I first turn it on, it's starting up in a default profile, even though it says it's in my selected profile, so I'll have to do the same thing: go to the picture profiles, change it to another one and then go back to the correct one.



Motion Interpolation/Smoothing. Sorta like the OLED's, even in OFF or USER:0, it seems like there is still a tick of something going on sometimes.



I'm sure I'm leaving some stuff out, but this will get it started.



Here's a quick pic I snapped with my iPhone from my recliner a little while ago with two lamps and Christmas lights on on the mantle and a Christmas tree about 18' in front of the screen.
That is a damn fine image right there. Nice work on your part getting a great image dialed in.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Tristan Jones
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post #3 of 23 Old 01-05-2020, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by skylarlove1999 View Post
That is a damn fine image right there. Nice work on your part getting a great image dialed in.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
Thanks, but it was little more than glorified ‘copy/paste’. Though I may have tweaked a little bit.
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post #4 of 23 Old 01-05-2020, 09:11 PM
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I'v been messing with mine for about a week now. Have it paired with the xy screen pet.

Overall happy, would like someone to post some calibration settings, we probably all use the same 0.8 gain screen material.
Maybe an expert dark and expert bright(for day viewing) settings can be shared here for some testing.


Also there seems to be no way of getting picture (input) setting display instead of the bt2020 color and 2160p when clicking on the mouse remote anywhere on the image and then clicking on the hdmi output to show input settings.
Pretty dam annoying since we can know what really the projector is displaying, 24/50/60hz extra ...


Also not happy with the hdr auto mapping for me it seems to dim down the image too much to a point its not watchable.


If anybody saw the LG side by side with the optima p1, kindly share.
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post #5 of 23 Old 01-06-2020, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercuryyy View Post
I'v been messing with mine for about a week now. Have it paired with the xy screen pet.

Overall happy, would like someone to post some calibration settings, we probably all use the same 0.8 gain screen material.
Maybe an expert dark and expert bright(for day viewing) settings can be shared here for some testing.


Also there seems to be no way of getting picture (input) setting display instead of the bt2020 color and 2160p when clicking on the mouse remote anywhere on the image and then clicking on the hdmi output to show input settings.
Pretty dam annoying since we can know what really the projector is displaying, 24/50/60hz extra ...


Also not happy with the hdr auto mapping for me it seems to dim down the image too much to a point its not watchable.


If anybody saw the LG side by side with the optima p1, kindly share.

Hi how loud is the projector. is the fan noise noticeable and is there any coil wine ?
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post #6 of 23 Old 01-06-2020, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mercuryyy View Post
I'v been messing with mine for about a week now. Have it paired with the xy screen pet.

Overall happy, would like someone to post some calibration settings, we probably all use the same 0.8 gain screen material.
Maybe an expert dark and expert bright(for day viewing) settings can be shared here for some testing.


Also there seems to be no way of getting picture (input) setting display instead of the bt2020 color and 2160p when clicking on the mouse remote anywhere on the image and then clicking on the hdmi output to show input settings.
Pretty dam annoying since we can know what really the projector is displaying, 24/50/60hz extra ...


Also not happy with the hdr auto mapping for me it seems to dim down the image too much to a point its not watchable.


If anybody saw the LG side by side with the optima p1, kindly share.
I plugged in the settings from this review(scroll down about 3/4 of the way):
https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...jector-review/

My screen is 120" .6 gain.
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post #7 of 23 Old 02-01-2020, 06:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mercuryyy View Post
I'v been messing with mine for about a week now. Have it paired with the xy screen pet.

Overall happy, would like someone to post some calibration settings, we probably all use the same 0.8 gain screen material.
Maybe an expert dark and expert bright(for day viewing) settings can be shared here for some testing.


Also there seems to be no way of getting picture (input) setting display instead of the bt2020 color and 2160p when clicking on the mouse remote anywhere on the image and then clicking on the hdmi output to show input settings.
Pretty dam annoying since we can know what really the projector is displaying, 24/50/60hz extra ...


Also not happy with the hdr auto mapping for me it seems to dim down the image too much to a point its not watchable.


If anybody saw the LG side by side with the optima p1, kindly share.
I plugged in the settings from this review(scroll down about 3/4 of the way):
https://hometheaterhifi.com/reviews/...jector-review/

My screen is 120" .6 gain.
What brand screen are you using that has .6 gain?
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post #8 of 23 Old 02-01-2020, 10:32 PM - Thread Starter
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What brand screen are you using that has .6 gain?
Elite Screens Edge Free Aeon CLR which is designed for UST projectors.
https://elitescreens.com/front/front...il/product/154
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Anyone have trouble adjusting the projector to fit the projection on the screen? I can not get the projector to project a square image. The bottom right corner is always too far to the left of the screen while the top right is too far to the right?

I spent hours last night adjusting the feet of the projector and it seems impossible to get it to fit to my screen properly.

UPDATE: now I have it 95% dialed in. Top right corner still can’t get it aligned perfectly.
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Originally Posted by Cb675 View Post
Anyone have trouble adjusting the projector to fit the projection on the screen? I can not get the projector to project a square image. The bottom right corner is always too far to the left of the screen while the top right is too far to the right?

I spent hours last night adjusting the feet of the projector and it seems impossible to get it to fit to my screen properly.

UPDATE: now I have it 95% dialed in. Top right corner still can’t get it aligned perfectly.
USTs are super finicky with the flatness of the screen. If your top right corner is just couple millimeters closer to the wall, it will cause that.

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Yes, they are incredibly sensitive to the slightest adjustment. It can be a little frustrating. Someone needs to come up with an adjustment plate to sit them on so that you can precisely manipulate the projector in very fine increments on all five axis. I've adjusted mine many times since the initial installation about a month ago. I had it nailed with very little edged adjustment used and almost no "light leak" visible(only on one side and you had to kind of know it was there) and came home the other night and I guess my dogs had bumped the center channel and moved it slightly and I haven't been able to walk it back into that "perfect" spot yet. I currently have a huge amount of edge adjustment dialed in and "light leak" visible on the top and both sides. Something else, the focus adjustment can greatly affect the image placement/size/"light leak" visibility, as well.

And to add insult to injury, a few days ago my screen started getting waves in the upper left AGAIN(Velcro fastening ES screen). I think at this point, I'm going to ask them to replace it under warranty with a spring tensioned model once they get them in-stock, again. It was horrible after the initial installation, but started to straighten itself out and had my installer come back out about three weeks later and they got it perfect, but it's only lasted about a week.
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I have had my HU85LA and 120” Grandview UST screen for two weeks now. Here are my impressions coming from OLED:

Pros:
-very bright and vivid colors
-Not very loud (fan noise)
-Does not give off a lot of heat
-120” is very immersive compared to my 65” OLED

Cons:
-Ordered first one from amazon new and it had a very loud coil whine. Returned and bought open box from another authorized dealer and this one does not have coil whine. If it does it hardly noticeable compared to the first one. YMMV.
-Placement is almost impossible to perfect. I’ve spent over 12 hours total easily adjusting feet, position and screen where I wanted to pull my hair out and how tedious it is to get picture aligned. See attached setup with less than ideal stand but finally got it 97% fit with NO edge adjustment.
Advice: screen flatness is key. I had to remove tension from mounting bracket to alleviate most of the fit issue. Thinking Tightening the brackets would make the screen more flat but it did the opposite.
-Struggles to output video without static fuzzy and black screen flickering when ATV4K set to Match Frame Rate. Have to restart the projector to fix video output. Hit or miss if a video plays with it turned on.
-No HLG support
-No Apple TV app, HomeKit, Disney+ app etc support for expensive mid-high end USTPJ (but most have streaming device to AVR so not complete deal breaker)

The cons seem big but this is my first projector and media room so it was a big learning experience. I installed myself so growing pains are expected.

I do love the upgrade from OLED to Projector mainly bc I wanted immersive viewing experience and could sacrifice the perfect blacks and dark highlights. In the dark, movies look very good after using calibration settings found online. Shadow detail is definitely lost compared to OLED and more grayish in really dark scenes (watched latest terminator movie).

LG needs to provide a more precise way to adjust the projector on a mount of some kind and or recommendation for ceiling mounting (not sure if that increases alignment difficulty or not).
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post #13 of 23 Old 02-13-2020, 10:21 AM
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Yes, they are incredibly sensitive to the slightest adjustment. It can be a little frustrating. Someone needs to come up with an adjustment plate to sit them on so that you can precisely manipulate the projector in very fine increments on all five axis. I've adjusted mine many times since the initial installation about a month ago. I had it nailed with very little edged adjustment used and almost no "light leak" visible(only on one side and you had to kind of know it was there) and came home the other night and I guess my dogs had bumped the center channel and moved it slightly and I haven't been able to walk it back into that "perfect" spot yet. I currently have a huge amount of edge adjustment dialed in and "light leak" visible on the top and both sides. Something else, the focus adjustment can greatly affect the image placement/size/"light leak" visibility, as well.

And to add insult to injury, a few days ago my screen started getting waves in the upper left AGAIN(Velcro fastening ES screen). I think at this point, I'm going to ask them to replace it under warranty with a spring tensioned model once they get them in-stock, again. It was horrible after the initial installation, but started to straighten itself out and had my installer come back out about three weeks later and they got it perfect, but it's only lasted about a week.
Check out the Samsung The Wall owner's thread in the $20k+ subforum. That's basically what each of the 16 (!!) panels has, as they each need to be adjusted to be perfectly flat and smooth in all dimensions in order to present as a single seamless image.

I'm sorely tempted by this projector but the installation tolerances seem to be awfully microscopic.

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Originally Posted by anthonymoody View Post
Check out the Samsung The Wall owner's thread in the $20k+ subforum. That's basically what each of the 16 (!!) panels has, as they each need to be adjusted to be perfectly flat and smooth in all dimensions in order to present as a single seamless image.

I'm sorely tempted by this projector but the installation tolerances seem to be awfully microscopic.
Yeah, I actually read that thread(or a lot of it, anyway) maybe back around Christmas(?).

I honestly wouldn’t let the finicky projector placement/alignment dissuade me from getting one, if I was seriously considering it. But it is definitely something you should know about going in.

Being my first front projection system, I’m overall very pleased. There’s something about viewing an image ON a screen instead of THROUGH it. Some content takes on a much more three-dimensional look(especially video games), I think because there’s nothing between you and the image and no reflections(which would also be between you and the image).
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post #15 of 23 Old 02-17-2020, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
Yeah, I actually read that thread(or a lot of it, anyway) maybe back around Christmas(?).

I honestly wouldn’t let the finicky projector placement/alignment dissuade me from getting one, if I was seriously considering it. But it is definitely something you should know about going in.

Being my first front projection system, I’m overall very pleased. There’s something about viewing an image ON a screen instead of THROUGH it. Some content takes on a much more three-dimensional look(especially video games), I think because there’s nothing between you and the image and no reflections(which would also be between you and the image).
I agree with Run&Gun about the projection experience. I purchased this projector with some hesitation about how to set it up with a stand and the finicky adjustments that it would require. I addressed the majority of the issues with and adjustable custom stand from the guys at Sound Anchors. I had them add a second adjustable shelf to their Studio Center channel stand so I can tune in the height and angle of the shelf to position it as I needed. Once this was done you can fine tune the feet of the projector to get what you need.

Setup: LG HU85LA 4K UST projector, Elite Screens 100" Aeon Edge Free StarBright CLR UST screen(spring) and all of my existing components which partially include a Denon AVR-X3600H, Marantz 5 channel Amp, Sony UBP-X800M2 4K DVD and Paradigm Studio speakers(center, L/R towers, sub) from my original set-up.
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post #16 of 23 Old 03-02-2020, 06:41 PM
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Just installed software update 4.00.06. Anyone know what the update contains?
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post #17 of 23 Old 03-19-2020, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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A few things:

1) Is anyone getting audio dropouts when feeding audio out of the projector via optical cable since the software/firmware update?

I know there are several links in the chain, so to speak, but audio is fine with DirecTV and Xbox which are both fed into my receiver directly via HDMI and then the video passed on to the projector and it has not exhibited this problem previously(I’ve been running this set-up since early January). It’s only when I use the internal streaming apps and feed the audio back out to the receiver via optical(AVR doesn’t have arc via HDMI or ability to pass 4K) or Apple TV 4K feeding directly into the projector via HDMI and audio back out via optical. The dropouts are not at regular intervals nor are they necessarily the same length of time. Sometimes it can just be for a second and sometimes it can be for several seconds and sometimes it can be minutes between dropouts and sometimes several can happen is a short time span. At first I thought it was just maybe the stream since I’m sure the services are being taxed with so many people at home, now, but it has been continuous and on multiple different services(Netflix, Amazon, Paramount...), the same services internal to the projector and on Apple TV(Netflix, Amazon) and you can “rewind”/jump back after it drops out and it’s usually fine for that section, then. I’ve also made sure all extraneous audio processing(except for delay for lip-sync in the receiver) is off. The optical cable has crossed my mind, but I’ve never had one just “go bad” or un-plug on me, before. It’s easy enough to check the connection on the projector side, but a pita to get to the back of the AVR. Just want to see if anyone else has experienced this before I go through the trouble of pulling the AVR out to check the cable there.

2) Is anyone having to tweak the Edge Adjustment continuously(like every day or every other day)? At first I thought maybe my dogs were bumping into the cabinet, but the bottom of the image is still lined-up with the screen, it’s mostly just the top of the image. It can be lined up just fine and then the next day I may notice that it’s slightly overshooting the top of the screen, so I bring up the EA menu and tweak it down back to within the confines of the edge of the screen then maybe a day later, it will be “low” and I’ll have to tweak the image back “out” to the edge of the screen. Very odd, especially since my understanding is that there are no moving optical elements in this projector(lenses for adjusting the image). The lens is fixed and all adjustments are doing by physically moving the projector and electronically via the EA “warping”. If it was getting bumped/jostled around, I would think the alignment at the bottom of the screen would be getting thrown off, as well.

3) Has anyone noticed any discoloration of the image at the very top of the image? With white or light colored images(sky, clouds, walls...), the very top(maybe 1” or so, I’m projecting 120”) all the way across, has a slight blue tint. I can even see it during an ad for a restaurant that has a full screen yellow background for their logo.

Last edited by Run&Gun; 03-19-2020 at 09:55 AM.
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post #18 of 23 Old 03-21-2020, 01:58 PM
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Hi Everyone! I'm a recent owner of an HU85LA and am thrilled with the picture quality I'm getting when projecting on to a wall when I take into account the imperfections of it. However, my SO is getting annoyed by the wall imperfections and now I'm looking for a screen. I was planning on getting a simple 120" grey/white screen but ran into specific UST ALR screens during my research. I would immediately order an ALR screen but I've noticed that every one I've found has a gain of .05 or similar... Should I be concerned with brightness if I go this route? Is it more advisable to just get an ordinary screen?

Thanks!
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post #19 of 23 Old 03-21-2020, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Hi Everyone! I'm a recent owner of an HU85LA and am thrilled with the picture quality I'm getting when projecting on to a wall when I take into account the imperfections of it. However, my SO is getting annoyed by the wall imperfections and now I'm looking for a screen. I was planning on getting a simple 120" grey/white screen but ran into specific UST ALR screens during my research. I would immediately order an ALR screen but I've noticed that every one I've found has a gain of .05 or similar... Should I be concerned with brightness if I go this route? Is it more advisable to just get an ordinary screen?

Thanks!
Don't worry about the "low gain". Get a UST specific screen. It will improve the contrast, blacks, off-axis viewing(maybe, I haven't looked at an image not on a UST screen but with UST it is essentially 180 degrees) and overall image, as well. UST screens are designed to work with the extreme angle that the image is being projected and reflect it directly back to the viewer. Also remember, this projector is a damn light canon compared to a lot of other "normal" projectors out there and it is VERY close to the screen. But I do recommend turning OFF the built-in Tone Mapping for HDR content. It makes dark content too dark and unenjoyable.
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post #20 of 23 Old 03-22-2020, 10:14 PM - Thread Starter
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UPDATE on Audio Dropouts

Turns out it was the optical cable. It got really bad Saturday night and then I lost audio completely from all streaming apps. I turned on the projectors internal speakers, and everything was fine, so I ruled out any issue with the stream, apps or connection into the projector(Apple TV 4K). Even swapped optical inputs on the receiver. Still no audio. Swapped the cable for the one running from the PS3 into the receiver and I was good-to-go, again. The cable from the PS3 is almost 12 years old. The one that "died", I don't think has even been used 12 weeks(maybe). Not sure of the brand, my installer gave it to me.
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post #21 of 23 Old 03-24-2020, 09:56 AM
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anyone know how to change the default startup channel? i dont have any inputs connected and it always starts up in "live tv" with a loud snow/noise screen.
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post #22 of 23 Old 03-24-2020, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Run&Gun View Post
Don't worry about the "low gain". Get a UST specific screen. It will improve the contrast, blacks, off-axis viewing(maybe, I haven't looked at an image not on a UST screen but with UST it is essentially 180 degrees) and overall image, as well. UST screens are designed to work with the extreme angle that the image is being projected and reflect it directly back to the viewer. Also remember, this projector is a damn light canon compared to a lot of other "normal" projectors out there and it is VERY close to the screen. But I do recommend turning OFF the built-in Tone Mapping for HDR content. It makes dark content too dark and unenjoyable.
Thanks for the information. I'll update this thread with what I purchase.
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post #23 of 23 Old 03-24-2020, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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anyone know how to change the default startup channel? i dont have any inputs connected and it always starts up in "live tv" with a loud snow/noise screen.
If you don't have anything hooked-up, what are you watching? Or are you just watching over-the-air broadcast TV? If you are just watching OTA TV, you would think it would power-up on the last channel watched. Have you programmed the tuner so that it blocks out un-received channels? On mine, if you use the factory remote, it will power-up onto the last used source, but I use a Harmony One, so it's switched over automatically to whatever input I need for the selected activity(i.e: DirecTV, Xbox, AppleTV, etc.).

Sorry, not much help, but try programming the OTA tuner, so hopefully it's not just snow and noise when it fires up.
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