is the 5k$ budget for the screen and projector?
Yes, but it's not a hard budget. Would rather stay at or below.
From the schematic, is that U shaped object a couch? It looks around 10" away from the screen.
Screen size is subjective and it's often recommended to use the projector on a wall for some time before deciding, but 120" from 10" seems about right.
Yes, proposed couch. It is actually about 14' from the viewing position pictured to the screen.
Angular ALR screen must not have any light coming from the same direction as the projector.
They usually require a 1.5x or more throw ratio (screen width) to not display any artifacts. For an 120" screen the width is 104.6". 104.6 x 1.5=156" (13').
Closer to 2.0 would be better. 104.6 x 1.8=188.28 (15.6')
Each screen has it's own requirement.
The further a projector is the less bright it will be.
From the projectors mentioned above, only the ZH403, Benq HT3550 and TK850 don't have longer throw ratios.
My projector could be ceiling mounted 16'/17' feet away or closer very conveniently. And my nook limits screen size to around 120"
Angular ALR screens also have something called half gain:
This is the angle at which the center of the picture appears to be half as bright as it does when viewed along the zero degree viewing axis. A screen with a small, narrow half gain angle will look bright at dead center, then quickly become dim as you move to the side. Conversely a screen with a large, wide half gain angle will continue to look reasonably bright as you move away from center.
Half gain is vertical and horizontal. The vertical one doesn't really matter that much for normal viewing, but horizontal does if there are people watching from the side, like from the bar for instance.
The bar seems around 40 degrees off axis from the perpendicular central axis of the screen. This means if a screen has a 45 degree half gain, the brightness at the bar will be half that when the screen is being viewed from the center.
The smaller the half gain, the better it fights ambient light.
How much time will be spent at the bar versus the couch?
The bar will have its own its own 55"lcd
Then you can select an ALR screen.
Another issue could be if there will be speakers behind the screen, in which case an Acoustic Transparent screen will be required. ALR screens can be expensive to begin with, and adding the AT requirement would make it even more so.
I preferably would not like my Front L/R towers behind the screen. They have front atmos built in and are pretty looking But, Im not sure where to go with my center channel placement yet.
But is there an ALR screen even required? As in zombie10k
screenshots, with proper ambient light control and enough brightness a regular screen could be used instead. This would eliminate the issue of the viewing angle, lower the price significantly if an AT (or not) screen is required. Also with children it's a good idea to get a relatively cheap screen, or a screen that you can build yourself with a wooden frame and spandex (which is AT) over it.
With regards to how an ALR/or not screen would handle different lighting scenarios, it's been pointed out in the examples above. For more examples check out this test with four different scenarios. Ignore the hotspot:
Im actually not sure at this point the the ALR screen is the direction I would lean. I think a traditional screen with the bright projector may be more versatile.
Although you said that the main purpose of the setup is sports and ambient light viewing, once you see how the image looks on a big screen you'll want to watch movies/TV as well. This will require to dim or even turn off most of the lights in order not to affect black level and dark parts of the image. This is the part of the image that will be affected the most by ambient light.
I did not mean to leave the impression sports and ambient light viewing were my main purpose. That is totally not the case. I want a great looking cinematic movie/show experience with light control, but the ability to watch a basketball game or host a party with ambient light on. If the display looks great for one and is garbage for the other, that's not going to work.
The projectors mentioned above are bright but don't have great contrast and black level. An Epson 5050UB would provide better contrast/black level and brightness.
How does one come to a conclusion here, where you cant physically see in person? Just read forums and reviews?
If you don't want people accidentally making eye contact with the projector beam directly, which can be quite bright, or not have shadows when people move around in front of the beam, as Run&Gun
suggested an UST projector can be used here.
Im not overly concerned with shadows created or glare looking back into the projector direction. I need to educate myself on UST projectors before i can give much input here.
For increased ambient light rejection/resistance a UST ALR screen can be used. UST ALR screens and long throw ALR screens are different. UST ALR screens will not have a hotspot or viewing angle issues. They are mostly designed to resist ambient light coming from above, but will handle some from the sides as well.
If you do decide to go the UST projector route there are models with nice black level and contrast.
Again, i need to learn what the pros and cons are of ust
Can a fixed frame screen be used or is a drop down required? A fixed frame would be more budget friendly.