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post #31 of 78 Old 01-31-2020, 08:29 PM
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I should have summarized better, so in summary, you might try doing a correction where you leave the blue and red at opposite sides just slightly. Hence, bring them in some, but not all the way, it may look better. You'll have to experiment.

The best correction, I've noticed, is not actually achieved by adhering to the cleanest white grid on the default JVC pixel pattern. The tightest correction tended to produce more purple outlining on text, loosen it up a bit and save it into multiple memory slots, then compare. See what you can find, then maybe a whole pixel correction is actually better than the increment and zone, at least in the center.
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post #32 of 78 Old 01-31-2020, 08:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
It's both, the initial error is the panel then the lens adds to the error. So the CA combines with the convergence. Even a pure convergence error isn't purely just the panel, it's enhanced by the lens even before CA adds to it.

If you are experiencing a sharpness loss after the convergence correction, it is likely because you have narrowed the blue and red on top of each other, in doing so the resulting purple color is actually worse than blue and red being separately off. However, that is when judging it on text, not sure about for movies, as it could vary. It likely means you over-corrected.

I had a similar problem on my first attempt at Zone correction, but I ended up only doing whole pixel and I don't turn it on for movies, only HTPC sometimes.

My belief is that it probably is not the correction algorithm causing the issue here, it's the actual red/blue blending to purple, because purple is the most intrusive looking color from seating distance. So the best convergence correction is likely to avoid the most purple to make the whitest looking text, including the inner part of the text and the outline. I also noticed that some corrections produced a yellowish looking text.

That said, judging sharpness in movies is VERY hard especially as scenes change. We all have been wrong before by memory, myself included. Perhaps your not, I'm just saying I would try to compare text and not try to judge it with movies.

I did few hours of experimenting with the zone vs. increment vs. whole, and I could not even detect a major difference in noise in my HTPC. The only differences I could detect were on test patterns, and even the test patterns differences were extremely mild, barely detectable.

My best guess is that the most likely side effect from convergence correction is going to be dancing noise near sharp edges, but it's probably rare.
Thanks again, appreciate all your input. Tonight I have been watching films for a few hours zoomed smaller than yesterday, at 130" wide scope tonight, and just now when I reset all convergence settings and took a fresh look at it, there was less error than previously. Craig mentioned needing to warm up the projector sufficiently, and someone else mentioned convergence changing over time for worse or for better. I will take a fresh look at the issue in a couple days but started wondering if my change in zoom and image size changed the issue.

If I may diverge from the convergence topic for a moment: I will be getting a ChadB calibration at the appropriate time, but in the meantime, since I am noticing a green shift in the color, which control can you suggest I try to ameliorate that? Not expecting a professional result, would just like to tweak a bit to clean up some green color shift.

Thanks,
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post #33 of 78 Old 01-31-2020, 08:37 PM
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Did you try the different default color temps?

Try Natural and change the color temps. Also try clicking on the color temp itself in the menu, and then you'll get a screen where you can reduce the Green Gain and Green Offset. Keep in mind though, seeing green may actually be too much blue and not enough red, rather than too much green. You might try reducing Blue more than green at first, but maybe reduce both.

Without a meter, you can get a decent calibration if you have a computer monitor or a TV that has accurate color, put them in the same room. Launch a gray scale pattern, get the error to match the pattern of the TV or monitor as close as possible by eye. Of course this only works if you know there is a mode on your TV or monitor that is exceptionally accurate, some TV's and monitors do have such modes. Usually I find out about them from Googling, though even then there can be some big variances, but it might at least help.

Generally, these JVC's produce pretty decent default color, the real problem is the default gamma, which has to be corrected by a meter.
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post #34 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 05:18 AM
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I got one of the new x790 last week and my Convergence is perfect did not have to touch it. That being said if it did and I could use the controls to correct it I would not exchanged.
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post #35 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aztar35 View Post
Thanks. Yeah, people were calling it a "golden sample." I don't know if it really was, but one fellow forum member, @Bytehoven , even called for the X990 to be rated in "Aztars" as a measuring rod.

I have an NX7 now, but when I first received it, the convergence was out more so than it is now and then settled after a few hours. I'm very pleased with this NX7's convergence.
My x990 has measured in at 4.89/5 Aztars.

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post #36 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
I got one of the new x790 last week and my Convergence is perfect did not have to touch it. That being said if it did and I could use the controls to correct it I would not exchanged.

That's good news. After seeing many different JVC's over the last 10 years, there's 3 scenarios i've observed.


**
Perfect or near perfect OOTB convergence. it's definitely possible and have seen a number of A++ copies first hand. I have an RS600 that is dead on across all 3 panels, no adjustments needed on cold boot or after full warm up

** 2nd best scenario is panels need adjustment but are all well aligned so that a single pixel change in either direction corrects the convergence across the entire panel.

** least ideal is panels are 'clocked' differently from one another so that the single pixel change fixes it in 1 area but makes it worse in another. Then the painstaking process of fine zone convergence which isn't really resolving the original issue.


imo, the golden sample consists of 4 areas, excellent convergence, sharp edge to edge focus, grey field uniformity (JVC's are usually very good here vs. Sony/Epson) and minimal bright corners on a black field. They are out there. when you get one, keep it..
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post #37 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bytehoven View Post
My x990 has measured in at 4.89/5 Aztars.

And that's pretty darn good.

Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
That's good news. After seeing many different JVC's over the last 10 years, there's 3 scenarios i've observed.


**
Perfect or near perfect OOTB convergence. it's definitely possible and have seen a number of A++ copies first hand. I have an RS600 that is dead on across all 3 panels, no adjustments needed on cold boot or after full warm up

** 2nd best scenario is panels need adjustment but are all well aligned so that a single pixel change in either direction corrects the convergence across the entire panel.

** least ideal is panels are 'clocked' differently from one another so that the single pixel change fixes it in 1 area but makes it worse in another. Then the painstaking process of fine zone convergence which isn't really resolving the original issue.


imo, the golden sample consists of 4 areas, excellent convergence, sharp edge to edge focus, grey field uniformity (JVC's are usually very good here vs. Sony/Epson) and minimal bright corners on a black field. They are out there. when you get one, keep it..
It's nice to hear about more great samples out there.
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post #38 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zombie10k View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamd View Post
I got one of the new x790 last week and my Convergence is perfect did not have to touch it. That being said if it did and I could use the controls to correct it I would not exchanged.

That's good news. After seeing many different JVC's over the last 10 years, there's 3 scenarios i've observed.


**
Perfect or near perfect OOTB convergence. it's definitely possible and have seen a number of A++ copies first hand. I have an RS600 that is dead on across all 3 panels, no adjustments needed on cold boot or after full warm up

** 2nd best scenario is panels need adjustment but are all well aligned so that a single pixel change in either direction corrects the convergence across the entire panel.

** least ideal is panels are 'clocked' differently from one another so that the single pixel change fixes it in 1 area but makes it worse in another. Then the painstaking process of fine zone convergence which isn't really resolving the original issue.


imo, the golden sample consists of 4 areas, excellent convergence, sharp edge to edge focus, grey field uniformity (JVC's are usually very good here vs. Sony/Epson) and minimal bright corners on a black field. They are out there. when you get one, keep it.. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

After going through many oled panels over the years I finally feel like I won the lottery with the x790r. I have no bright corners or colour Uniformity issues. It reminds me of a huge plasma. Just a super stable image with nothing distracting. Besides e shift being a little louder when cold the unit I have is perfect. With having ocd I usually always find Something that annoys me but I could not be happier with my Jvc. I don’t use DI and keep my lens iris at a fixed number so I hope this unit will be reliable for 2-3 years.
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post #39 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 09:11 AM
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Ross, maybe try moving blue one whole pixel to the left after warm up, and see how that looks. Using the electronic correction as little as possible reduces the risk of messing up the colors and overall appearance.

You've owned DLP projectors, I see, and one of the differences, to me, between Lcos and DLP projected images is that the DLP's image is more akin to a glossy oil painting while Lcos, again this my impression, is more akin to a matte-like, spray painted image. In the past, I noticed that the more I messed with pixel correction, the more the Lcos image had that dry, spray-painted or air-brushed look, with which I personally wasn't pleased too much.
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post #40 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 09:52 AM
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When comparing (2) JVC's, one with exceptional convergence and a tighter focus grid and one with average convergence and an average focus grid. Surprisingly, the difference in sharpness does not appear to favor either/or, they are about the same unless comparing specific text at the extreme edges of the screen. Of course this is from my seating distance, about 10' from a 118" Scope, closer in and it can affect it very slightly, but I still cannot tell in video even in an A/B. So if it's any consolation, not sure how much pixel peeping really matters other than for HTPC use or gaming, unless you sit real close.

Some in here do sit really close with giant screens, so close they mise well have 8k.

However, there is a point to where convergence will affect the image quite drastically, and it's a sloped curve, so when it crosses that line it quickly goes from 'barely noticeable' to extremely noticeable.
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post #41 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the continued input everyone, really appreciate the helpfulness of JVC owners!

First thing I want to note is that I have totally fallen in love with the JVC look, and no way do I want to go back to the 45ES. The blacks and contrast are unlike anything I have ever experienced, even compared to flat panels (I never owned Pioneer Kuro, only Panasonic plasma, and now some LCDs). Last night I put on the Gravity blu-ray, iris set at Auto2, and I was FLOORED by the gorgeous blacks in space! It made the film all the more immersive.

My desire is that my dealer (who is a forum member) will help me get a return/exchange from the distributor if it's necessary. I have never purchased from him before but he came highly recommended by another veteran forum member. Maybe there is only so much he can do since it looks like it's up to the distributor to ok or deny a return. And the other concern is if a return was allowed, there's no guarantee a second unit will be better, and could be worse in various ways.

I experience quality control issues all the time in my work as a professional photographer, where it is not uncommon for me to have to purchase 3 copies of a lens and test all to find one that is decent enough to keep (but I have a fantastic dealer who lets me do that and gives 30-day no questions asked return privileges with zero fees). This is a concern for me with buying JVC going forward, if quality control is not great (as seems to be true of all projector brands) and then if it is difficult to get the powers that be to admit issues and allow returns. With my Epson a dozen years ago the exchange service for any issue you had was phenomenal, super fast and cooperative, and multiple exchanges if that's what it took. I almost went for the Epson 5050, but I don't want Epson blacks, I want the phenomenal contrast of this JVC.

Last night after a highly respected and experienced veteran forum member recommended to me to carefully check the focus uniformity (which I had not gotten around to yet) I did that, and I cannot get proper focus across the entire field. It appears especially the lower right fourth of the image is not very sharp, and when I focus there as best as can be then the rest of image is not in proper focus. I have this sick feeling you get from dropping what for my wife & I is significant coin on a consumer electronics item and fearing I could possibly have a bad sample and be stuck with it. I hope to do more careful testing tomorrow or Monday, but today is my wife's birthday so I need to disconnect my brain from worrying about it the rest of the day.

Ross

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post #42 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 05:04 PM
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I don't wish to sound negative here, but it's about 40 posts on this thread and I don't think you've got your problem really solved. If you have to go around correcting zone by zone and you feel like you're trying to align hairs, if you have doubts whether it's a focus or convergence problem and neither really look good, if you have to get by with good focus and convergence on the middle of the image only, then I believe it's best to replace/return the projector. There's always the argument that most convergence imperfections aren't visible at seating distance. While that is true for minor convergence issues, there's always that lack of sharpness you have mentioned, which is rather felt than seen, and which becomes a nuisance with not so minor convergence problems. And you're right to expect better from your high-end projector.
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post #43 of 78 Old 02-01-2020, 07:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't wish to sound negative here, but it's about 40 posts on this thread and I don't think you've got your problem really solved. If you have to go around correcting zone by zone and you feel like you're trying to align hairs, if you have doubts whether it's a focus or convergence problem and neither really look good, if you have to get by with good focus and convergence on the middle of the image only, then I believe it's best to replace/return the projector. There's always the argument that most convergence imperfections aren't visible at seating distance. While that is true for minor convergence issues, there's always that lack of sharpness you have mentioned, which is rather felt than seen, and which becomes a nuisance with not so minor convergence problems. And you're right to expect better from your high-end projector.

Thank you for your comment. I agree with all this. For a projector that retailed at $6k a couple years ago a buyer should expect pretty good performance, IMO.

Looking at the convergence and focus with fresh eyes today, it is the right bottom quadrant that has the worst focus issue, and the entire right side has the worst of the convergence errors that can't be corrected with Whole Pixel because it then throws the left side out. Attached is a pic from the right bottom quadrant, and a pic of large text just to the right of the center of screen that shows a lot of color errors (this pic represents about 20 inches width of a 118" wide image) It's easy to see this from my 12ft seating.

Ross
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post #44 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 03:16 AM
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Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
Thank you for your comment. I agree with all this. For a projector that retailed at $6k a couple years ago a buyer should expect pretty good performance, IMO.



Looking at the convergence and focus with fresh eyes today, it is the right bottom quadrant that has the worst focus issue, and the entire right side has the worst of the convergence errors that can't be corrected with Whole Pixel because it then throws the left side out. Attached is a pic from the right bottom quadrant, and a pic of large text just to the right of the center of screen that shows a lot of color errors (this pic represents about 20 inches width of a 118" wide image) It's easy to see this from my 12ft seating.



Ross
I always get confused with this.. When you see green what does that mean?

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post #45 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 09:53 AM
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Sounds like an RMA needed, even my unit with average convergence doesn't have any major issue with focus uniformity across the screen, even though the convergence uniformity issue is there slightly on mine as well. Usually my threshold is if the issue appears to be affecting actual video content in any meaningful way, depending on if I bought the PJ new or used (used is obviously more trouble to deal with).

That said, I cannot judge it by a camera pic really, cameras will bloom the error out differently in every photo.
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post #46 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
Thank you for your comment. I agree with all this. For a projector that retailed at $6k a couple years ago a buyer should expect pretty good performance, IMO.

Looking at the convergence and focus with fresh eyes today, it is the right bottom quadrant that has the worst focus issue, and the entire right side has the worst of the convergence errors that can't be corrected with Whole Pixel because it then throws the left side out. Attached is a pic from the right bottom quadrant, and a pic of large text just to the right of the center of screen that shows a lot of color errors (this pic represents about 20 inches width of a 118" wide image) It's easy to see this from my 12ft seating.

Ross

If you can see convergence issues from 12 feet then sounds like a swap is in order.
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post #47 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 10:23 AM
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Here is what I mean by cameras, this is the same image, same camera, all I did was change the angle slightly and move it much closer...

If we went by the second picture, it looks like my lens was crushed or warped and the convergence looks awful, but it doesn't look anything like that in reality, it's the camera sensors not working properly at an angle... If you have a really high-end camera, might work (sometimes), but usually if you take the pic too close it messes it up...

Note that neither of the below pictures is representative of how it actually looks in person, not even that close really. In the first image, the blue is exaggerated even in the first photo by a blooming factor area of about 200%, meaning the blue is showing up at least twice as large as it looks in person.




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post #48 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 10:53 AM
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I just picked up an a new NX7. This is the worst I’ve ever had. When cold it’s unwatchable. I have to nearly max out the red -1/-2 and blue -1/+2 pixel adjust.

The problem is an hr later then it’s where it should be, a 0/0 red and 0/0 or 0/-1 blue is fine.
Neither of my past JVCs required this.

It’s looking like I will be doing an exchange. I’m 14 hrs on so far in 3 sessions.

It’s currently off and later today I will see if I have the same results as the first 3 power ups.
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post #49 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 11:15 AM
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Another example...

On my unit, the zone correction is beneficial for HTPC reading, but only barely (like 15% of text), I don't find it beneficial from seating distance in video at all, so it's not worth potential side effects, though I couldn't detect any side effects. These pictures are taken closer to the more severe convergence error on the screen, but likely not at the absolute max error position (which would be on the very edge)...

There is also no way for me to fix the error with a full pixel adjust, because the error is closer to a 1/3rd to half pixel, but I would still call this average (passable) because it's not a heavy purple or red outline, its mostly blue error, but there is some red. However, even though this is passable and about average, cannot compare it to others (not with different cameras and positions and all that).

Uncorrected


Zone Corrected


1/2 Pixel Fine Adjust (entire image - not zone)

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post #50 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 11:19 AM
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It’s looking like I will be doing an exchange. I’m 14 hrs on so far in 3 sessions.

It’s currently off and later today I will see if I have the same results as the first 3 power ups.
That's definitely in exchange territory, now I don't have to even say we need to watch our cameras for that one, you might be able to pick that error up from a satellite image.

Good luck with your exchange, hope it's better (it certainly can't get any worse).

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post #51 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 03:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
Here is what I mean by cameras, this is the same image, same camera, all I did was change the angle slightly and move it much closer...

If we went by the second picture, it looks like my lens was crushed or warped and the convergence looks awful, but it doesn't look anything like that in reality, it's the camera sensors not working properly at an angle... If you have a really high-end camera, might work (sometimes), but usually if you take the pic too close it messes it up...

Note that neither of the below pictures is representative of how it actually looks in person, not even that close really. In the first image, the blue is exaggerated even in the first photo by a blooming factor area of about 200%, meaning the blue is showing up at least twice as large as it looks in person.
I assume other forum members are able to use the same basic common sense I did when I took the photos: look at the image on phone screen after capture and compare it to the convergence pattern right there in front of your face to make sure it accurately represents - easy peasy. I didn't even have to rely on my skills of making a living at professional photography for 36 years to do this Now, if the seller or distributor requires overkill, I will drag out my $25,000 100mp medium format rig with Apochromatic Zeiss lens planted on heavy Gitzo tripod using remote release and vibration-free electronic shutter, use my standard color-managed workflow on the DNG digital negative processing with calibrated neutral color profile, perfect white balance, all sliders set to zero, and export a huge 16-bitt TIFF for them to examine at their pleasure

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post #52 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
I just picked up an a new NX7. This is the worst I’ve ever had. When cold it’s unwatchable. I have to nearly max out the red -1/-2 and blue -1/+2 pixel adjust.

The problem is an hr later then it’s where it should be, a 0/0 red and 0/0 or 0/-1 blue is fine.
Neither of my past JVCs required this.

It’s looking like I will be doing an exchange. I’m 14 hrs on so far in 3 sessions.

It’s currently off and later today I will see if I have the same results as the first 3 power ups.
Wow. And then after warmup it becomes close to perfectly correct?

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post #53 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
Wow. And then after warmup it becomes close to perfectly correct?

Ross
Yep. Tried it on 4 different watching sessions in the last 3 days.

Same result. Cold it’s as far off as you see on the pics. Do full panel adjust, looks good, warms up 45 mins or so, looks bad like in the pics, zero it back out and it’s fine. My NX5 or 590 were no where near like this. A new 7 is on the way.
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post #54 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 03:48 PM
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@rossandwendy
Not doubting your photography skills, just the differences in the light sensors in peoples' cameras. Not sure about real expensive cameras, as don't own one at the moment, a long time ago I had Nikon DSLR (not that great, but ok). My current camera is a Canon point and shoot and cannot capture red correctly and exaggerated blue. That is what I meant, that my pictures weren't able to be captured exactly, though the last ones were a bit closer to how it looked in person.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
Yep. Tried it on 4 different watching sessions in the last 3 days.
Same result. Cold it’s as far off as you see on the pics. Do full panel adjust, looks good, warms up 45 mins or so, looks bad like in the pics, zero it back out and it’s fine. My NX5 or 590 were no where near like this. A new 7 is on the way.
That's crazy...
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Last edited by coderguy; 02-02-2020 at 03:52 PM.
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post #55 of 78 Old 02-02-2020, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
@rossandwendy
Not doubting your photography skills, just the differences in the light sensors in peoples' cameras. Not sure about real expensive cameras, as don't own one at the moment, a long time ago I had Nikon DSLR (not that great, but ok). My current camera is a Canon point and shoot and cannot capture red correctly and exaggerated blue. That is what I meant, that my pictures weren't able to be captured exactly, though the last ones were a bit closer to how it looked in person.

That's crazy...
I understand what you're saying coderguy regarding phone cameras. With interchangeable lens cameras the latest sensors used by Hasselblad, Phase One, Nikon, and some others are made by Sony and are absolutely state of the art, extremely accurate with no artifacts (unless purposely pushed to a ridiculous extreme), limited only by the lens IQ and the photographer's skill. My most often used camera currently is the Nikon D850 full frame DSLR and most shooters regard it as the best DSLR ever made (including the Canon guys). We photographers are living in an amazing era for high quality capture.

------------------

RaceCarDriver, it sounds like you have a good dealer who is taking care of you, that's how it should be.

I'm clearing my schedule tomorrow so I can do more extensive tests, and determine if convergence/focus errors are bothersome enough that I need to try another unit. My dealer has reached out to the distributor to try and get permission for an exchange so I am waiting to see what the level of support is going to end up being.

------------------

On a positive note, I'm continuing to be blown away by the contrast and blacks on JVC. Now I understand what you owners have enjoyed long before me. Last night I watched one of my favorite feel-good films, The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society that I have seen about a dozen times, and I always thought the blu-ray left much to be desired with grayish blacks and weak color. WOW what a difference watching it on a JVC, now I can see there are beautiful blacks and more color saturation than I knew - it was like seeing the movie for the first time. The Sony 45ES was the limiting factor before.

Whether it is this sample or a replacement, I am very much looking forward to getting a @Chad B calibration after I've put on enough bulb hours.

Ross
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post #56 of 78 Old 02-03-2020, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
I just picked up an a new NX7. This is the worst I’ve ever had. When cold it’s unwatchable. I have to nearly max out the red -1/-2 and blue -1/+2 pixel adjust.

The problem is an hr later then it’s where it should be, a 0/0 red and 0/0 or 0/-1 blue is fine.
Neither of my past JVCs required this.

It’s looking like I will be doing an exchange. I’m 14 hrs on so far in 3 sessions.

It’s currently off and later today I will see if I have the same results as the first 3 power ups.
Unfortunately, this can be relatively normal. I have had 2 RS4500's and they both did this. I worked around it with memory presets and a warm up script that runs on my HTPC via IP Control as the projector warms up. After about 20 min, it gets significantly better, however. I sit so close and run desktop for the first hour usually, so I'm extra sensitive to this at 4K resolution. If I was just watching a movie, after about 20 mins of warm up, I'd never notice. I play a lot of games and work on desktop and its super noticeable to me.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
I assume other forum members are able to use the same basic common sense I did when I took the photos: look at the image on phone screen after capture and compare it to the convergence pattern right there in front of your face to make sure it accurately represents - easy peasy. I didn't even have to rely on my skills of making a living at professional photography for 36 years to do this Now, if the seller or distributor requires overkill, I will drag out my $25,000 100mp medium format rig with Apochromatic Zeiss lens planted on heavy Gitzo tripod using remote release and vibration-free electronic shutter, use my standard color-managed workflow on the DNG digital negative processing with calibrated neutral color profile, perfect white balance, all sliders set to zero, and export a huge 16-bitt TIFF for them to examine at their pleasure

Ross
What, no vibration sensor mounted on the tripod.
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post #58 of 78 Old 02-03-2020, 06:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
Yep. Tried it on 4 different watching sessions in the last 3 days.

Same result. Cold it’s as far off as you see on the pics. Do full panel adjust, looks good, warms up 45 mins or so, looks bad like in the pics, zero it back out and it’s fine. My NX5 or 590 were no where near like this. A new 7 is on the way.
Most all three panel projectors are off when cold and move closer to converged once warmed up. That is just the way it is. You should not adjust convergence until fully warmed up. Your replacement will act the same way. If your unit with no adjustments is converged, once warmed up, you have a great unit and most likely will end up with a replacement that is not fully converged, once warmed up. How cold is your room? If you keep it really cold, when not using the room, the projector will be farther off, when cold. As an experiment, keep your room at 72 degrees for a day and see if your projector starts off closer to converged, but don't expect it to start off fully converged.
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post #59 of 78 Old 02-03-2020, 09:28 AM
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Most all three panel projectors are off when cold and move closer to converged once warmed up. That is just the way it is. You should not adjust convergence until fully warmed up. Your replacement will act the same way. If your unit with no adjustments is converged, once warmed up, you have a great unit and most likely will end up with a replacement that is not fully converged, once warmed up. How cold is your room? If you keep it really cold, when not using the room, the projector will be farther off, when cold. As an experiment, keep your room at 72 degrees for a day and see if your projector starts off closer to converged, but don't expect it to start off fully converged.

I understand that, but the fact that it’s so bad is why I have a replacement on the way. I had a 590r for over a year, NX5 for over a year. The 5 came out and the 7 went in its place.

I know what I have experienced over the past 2 JVCs. Do I expect it to be perfect? No. Do I expect a $9,000 projector to be better than my $6,000 and $4,000 models? Not really.. but I do expect it to be not terribly worse.

I wont let a projector warm up 45-60 mins before it’s acceptable. The room is about 68-70 degrees. Like it always is with my previous projectors. The only thing that has changed is the 5 for a 7.
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post #60 of 78 Old 02-03-2020, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by RaceCarDriver View Post
I understand that, but the fact that it’s so bad is why I have a replacement on the way. I had a 590r for over a year, NX5 for over a year. The 5 came out and the 7 went in its place. I don’t expect it to be perfect until warm, but know what I have experienced over the past 2 JVCs. Do I expect it to be perfect? No. Do I expect a $9,000 projector to be better than my $6,000 and $4,000 models? Not really.. but I do expect it to be not terribly worse. I wont let a projector warm up 45-60 mins before it’s acceptable. The room is about 68-70 degrees. Like it always is with my previous projectors. The only thing that has changed is the 5 for a 7.
I did not see the picture earlier. That is bad, even for start up in a cold room. Hard to believe it is converged once warm, with that starting point. Needs to be exchanged.
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