Feb 2020 JVC X790 vs NX5 - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 06:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Toe View Post
If I was choosing between these two knowing everything I do about my 790, I'd pick the NX5 no question.
Toe, could you elaborate some? Keep that I will likely not notice any improvement in resolution at my screen size/viewing distance.
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post #32 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by xrtdr View Post
Toe, could you elaborate some? Keep that I will likely not notice any improvement in resolution at my screen size/viewing distance.
ALL reports indicate the new 4k models put out a cleaner, calmer and more stable image. Image stability is what bothers me most on my 790 so hearing from folks I trust like Manni that this has been significantly improved on the 4k models would be my main motivation to go that route over the x790.
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post #33 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 06:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xrtdr View Post
Toe, could you elaborate some? Keep that I will likely not notice any improvement in resolution at my screen size/viewing distance.
ALL reports indicate the new 4k models put out a cleaner, calmer and more stable image. Image stability is what bothers me most on my 790 so hearing from folks I trust like Manni that this has been significantly improved on the 4k models would be my main motivation to go that route over the x790.
Would that affect 1080p content without eshift as well or does it seem to be a 4K issue?
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post #34 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 07:00 PM
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Would that affect 1080p content without eshift as well or does it seem to be a 4K issue?
Yes. It affects everything no matter what you throw at it and eshift on or off has no impact on image pulsating in particular. Eshift on does make for a less calm picture, but image stability/pulsating is an issue either way and gets worse the more you clamp the iris down.
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post #35 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 07:05 PM
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You will get different answers from different people that see stuff differently. I have no complaints about image stability on the RS-420 compared to the other projectors I have here when it comes to watching movies, for HTPC use there is a bit of noticeable flicker only visible on brighter colors while reading in the browser. Comparing to an Optoma DLP, the image stability looks similar in movies, but the Optoma 4k has better motion. The Optoma may be going back, it's got a bit of a color uniformity issue, pretty horrid black levels, its own flickering issues, and I mainly just bought it for 3D anyways. Not that the 3D on the JVC is poor, but I still get ghosting on some scenes. Flickering in 3D never bothered me much, but the ghosting still does (weird how we are all bothered by different things).

However, there are three things that do bother me about the JVC...

1) I would prefer the DI to be active in low APL content instead of near 0 APL only, because the Native Contrast is a bit muddled even at -8 aperture.
2) The JVC's motion still suffers and I assume the newer ones have the same issue. People keep saying motion is improved one to the next, but I just compared (3) different JVC's at the same time, there is no improvement in motion resolution, except in CMD mode. However, that also comes with a bit more SOE.
3) The 3D is far improved, but distant shots or certain types of scenes still have the propensity to ghost a bit (at least in my setup), going to try varying glasses. Still not near "DLP clean" 3D levels.

The biggest difference between a JVC and other projectors is still motion resolution and propensity to flicker I suppose, but the motion issue is a drawback with LCOS and LCD tech, it can only be fixed so much. Sony's supposedly have better motion, but motion still looks better on DLP's to me, especially in intense action scenes. CMD mode closes the gap somewhat, but on a good DLP I don't feel the need to use CMD as much.

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post #36 of 53 Old 02-10-2020, 07:54 PM
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I just double checked the flickering artifact, actually it's still there, just less pronounced than before. It could be a REAL issue in your decision. However, I can still only see it during mostly pure white images, so if you watch a lot of hockey, might be more of an issue. If I look at an HTPC desktop and minimize my browser window, I can no longer see the flickering, even on my white icons (against black background). It seems to mainly be visible on brighter content if it is taking up at least 25% of the screen. Since I don't watch a lot of brighter content (no sports hardly ever, etc...), then that is perhaps why it doesn't bother me. I need to change my lamp out and see if there is any difference, so far haven't tried.

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post #37 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toe View Post
Yes. It affects everything no matter what you throw at it and eshift on or off has no impact on image pulsating in particular. Eshift on does make for a less calm picture, but image stability/pulsating is an issue either way and gets worse the more you clamp the iris down.
I'm really curious about this, I have rock solid stability on my RS540 on 1080 blu-ray, eshift off, have never seen 'pulsating' regardless of where I set iris. I use manual aperture, not the auto modes. Now on my Sony 45ES I would sometimes get flickering if the lamp was in low mode - is that what you are seeing?

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post #38 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
I'm really curious about this, I have rock solid stability on my RS540 on 1080 blu-ray, eshift off, have never seen 'pulsating' regardless of where I set iris. I use manual aperture, not the auto modes. Now on my Sony 45ES I would sometimes get flickering if the lamp was in low mode - is that what you are seeing?

Ross
That's good! If you dont see it, dont look for it and just enjoy the image.

EDIT: No, this is not lamp flicker. I've had 2 790s here and 3 different lamps between the 2 machines. Same in all cases.
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post #39 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 04:15 PM
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I'm guessing it is the ballast doing it trying to keep the lamp in synch to prevent the lamp from surging out of spec, especially since as the lamp ages the effect appears to lessen. It was definitely much more visible when my lamp was new. I don't think it's the lamp itself, just the way the ballast is running the lamp. I can barely see it anymore even when looking for it on an all white HTPC desktop.

I don't think there is any possible way someone could see this in a movie at its current level, maybe at its worst in certain scenes, but I am still doubtful. I just don't see it as an issue really, and messing with settings appears to help it, because I couldn't see it at all for a few minutes, then I started changing the aperture and other settings and it came back.

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post #40 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 04:28 PM
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It catches my eye in nearly every blu ray or anything I watch with a mostly closed iris (I'm using -10)

Lamp age does NOT help. I'm at 1300 hours and it's just as bad as day 1.

Last edited by Toe; 02-11-2020 at 05:27 PM.
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post #41 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 05:32 PM
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What are the current street prices that the difference is only $1200?


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post #42 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 07:14 PM
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What are the current street prices that the difference is only $1200?


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People can't post street prices without getting into trouble, so I doubt you get an answer here.
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post #43 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by coderguy View Post
I just double checked the flickering artifact, actually it's still there, just less pronounced than before. It could be a REAL issue in your decision. However, I can still only see it during mostly pure white images, so if you watch a lot of hockey, might be more of an issue. If I look at an HTPC desktop and minimize my browser window, I can no longer see the flickering, even on my white icons (against black background). It seems to mainly be visible on brighter content if it is taking up at least 25% of the screen. Since I don't watch a lot of brighter content (no sports hardly ever, etc...), then that is perhaps why it doesn't bother me. I need to change my lamp out and see if there is any difference, so far haven't tried.
Yea I still think it may just be the lamp. The lamp I got from Dominic seems to have less flicker than my original. And low lamp has more than high, which is typical from I've seen on other projectors. Total non-issue with anything other than a static image with bright white (like an explorer window). I'm a little baffled by the comments about a calmer image on the NX series. Can't see how that is possible on anything but a static image.
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post #44 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 08:22 PM
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It's not the lamp, at least not the issue I'm talking about. That's one of the first things me and JVC troubleshooted/eliminated. Like I said, I personally tried 3 lamps total and 2 different 790s.

We might not all be talking about the same issue though.
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post #45 of 53 Old 02-11-2020, 10:41 PM
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Maybe not, but I can say with absolute certainty that there is no difference in movies stability wise between this projector and the other projectors I have here. I can usually see it on an all white window, but depends on settings and what not. It's just not really an issue for most people. I would not even worry about it.

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post #46 of 53 Old 02-12-2020, 12:11 AM
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And I can say with absolute certainty that the issue on the x790 (which while very similar to your 420 is NOT the exact same projector by the way so we are not making an apples to apples comparison as I've told you before) that I am talking about makes the image noticeably more unstable vs the other projectors I have here and other projectors I've owned when using a mostly clamped iris. I disagree with you which is why I'm taking the time to post my experience and opinion, an experience and opinion from someone who owns the EXACT projector in question which you dont have by the way. We can agree to disagree. Fair enough Coderguy?
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post #47 of 53 Old 02-12-2020, 02:00 AM
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I'm not doubting your issue with it, I'm just judging from others that have owned the 500/600/520/540/620/640, as most are not that bothered by it. There are a couple others that noted it, but that is why I say it probably won't bother most people.

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post #48 of 53 Old 02-12-2020, 06:11 AM - Thread Starter
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It looks like I found a deal on a demo unit RS540 that may help make the decision.
It has the exact same dimensions as the unit I am replacing (RS4800) so should be easy to re-mount and hook up.
This way, I'll be back up to speed as before and when I get a UHD Bluray player and HD2.0 AVR I can pass the 4K signal through.
I think I am going for contrast over resolution and hope the stability and eshift chatter (which would only be an issue w 4K signal?) won't detract.

Thanks so much for the discussion. My mind is 90% made up!
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post #49 of 53 Old 02-12-2020, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by xrtdr View Post
It looks like I found a deal on a demo unit RS540 that may help make the decision.
It has the exact same dimensions as the unit I am replacing (RS4800) so should be easy to re-mount and hook up.
This way, I'll be back up to speed as before and when I get a UHD Bluray player and HD2.0 AVR I can pass the 4K signal through.
I think I am going for contrast over resolution and hope the stability and eshift chatter (which would only be an issue w 4K signal?) won't detract.

Thanks so much for the discussion. My mind is 90% made up!
Congrats! It's a great machine and should be an excellent swap into your system.

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post #50 of 53 Old 02-15-2020, 02:06 PM - Thread Starter
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I am on my way to the FedEx store to pick up the RS540. I just realized my power cord from the DLA RS4800 is through the ceiling. Those should be interchangeable, so I can use the old one that is in place correct?
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post #51 of 53 Old 02-15-2020, 02:22 PM
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I am on my way to the FedEx store to pick up the RS540. I just realized my power cord from the DLA RS4800 is through the ceiling. Those should be interchangeable, so I can use the old one that is in place correct?
They are the standard 3 prong NEMA cords (PC power cables), so yes.
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post #52 of 53 Old 02-15-2020, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by xrtdr View Post
I am on my way to the FedEx store to pick up the RS540. I just realized my power cord from the DLA RS4800 is through the ceiling. Those should be interchangeable, so I can use the old one that is in place correct?
Yes. The 540 only uses 20 more watts.
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post #53 of 53 Old Yesterday, 10:57 AM
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Did it power on?

Does it look good so far?

Are you liking it or ????
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