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post #151 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
Yeah, knowing that I have one of the best blacks out of a projector feels good.

It's just a matter of realizing the performance, met with my expectations, and blend it together.
As critical as you are on black levels, you should see an RS540 or RS640 in a good room.
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post #152 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 08:23 AM - Thread Starter
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As critical as you are on black levels, you should see an RS540 or RS640 in a good room.

That's a part of why I find this hobby of mine rather interesting, you could always improve, there is always room for improvement.

As with an hobby, but video and audio is something really special.

I bought a Klipsch setup to go along with this, RP-8000F's, RP-504C, and dual SPL-120's.

It's just a living room, so no real reason to get anything better, I've treated the room on par with the spouse levels.


For better equipment I'd definitely need a better room, thinking - Arendal 1723 Tower THX, another tower as center, and Rythmik 15's.

That'd be something, but oh the room, I would have to move to another place!


You got a real cave?


For Arendal's, check these:

Movie Demo:

Music Demo:

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post #153 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 08:44 AM
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I think you mentioned ordering some screen samples, including some ALRs. They do provide an improvement, but it's best you judge for yourself. At that throw ratio there should not be any issues.
I don't know if I mentioned Hivilux, or if they deliver samples.
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post #154 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
That's a part of why I find this hobby of mine rather interesting, you could always improve, there is always room for improvement.

As with an hobby, but video and audio is something really special.

I bought a Klipsch setup to go along with this, RP-8000F's, RP-504C, and dual SPL-120's.

It's just a living room, so no real reason to get anything better, I've treated the room on par with the spouse levels.


For better equipment I'd definitely need a better room, thinking - Arendal 1723 Tower THX, another tower as center, and Rythmik 15's.

That'd be something, but oh the room, I would have to move to another place!


You got a real cave?


For Arendal's, check these:

Movie Demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqqeIl1MOn4

Music Demo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29G6trmEXNc
Pretty good room. Front wall is screen, black velvet above and on the side and black grill cloth below the screen, Side walls, floor to ceiling black velvet. Back wall 80% covered with black velvet. Ceiling 75% covered with black velvet panels and black grill cloth. Floor is black also. Front wall is a baffle wall with angled wings, so that right and left mains are pointing toward main seat. Screen is AT, so when looking up front, you see nothing but image. No equipment led's lit in the room.

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post #155 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
I know you guys are much more about the ANSI than the SEQ, the SEQ is what would impress me in terms of performance.
Nope, if that was the case we would all own a DLP.

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post #156 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 03:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Nope, if that was the case we would all own a DLP.
Right, my bad.
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post #157 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 03:47 PM - Thread Starter
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@Javs and @Mike Garrett , you're the ones I believe have the most experience with similar JVC machines as mine, so here it comes:

Did some testing this evening, I came across a couple of issues that I'll split into parts below, easier for you to address if case you decide to dig in, see below:



1) Pixel adjustment: I think one could only adjust RED and BLUE, where I think GREEN is a solid, as it acts primarily also for luminance.

Issue: I could align RED and BLUE perfectly, but using the WHITE image pattern showed GREEN as 1 or 2 pixels off to the LEFT and ABOVE the white pattern.

Questions: GREEN cannot be adjusted? RED and BLUE should be adjusted to match the WHITE pattern, or the GREEN as shown slightly misaligned to the WHITE?



2) Panel uniformity: To my very surprise, once putting up a 100% window, covering all of the image chips, showing 100% WHITE, 100% CYAN, 100% BLACK, screen is no where near uniform.

Issue: Panel uniformity seems to be an issue, hard to spot with content, but shows easily with dark scenes and when the projector is handling HDMI-shaking, gray screens seem to show when shifting.

Issue: The image shifts in YELLOW when showing 100% WHITE, 100% CYAN, but with 100% BLACK, there is gray coming from the TOP/MID-RIGHT side of the thrown image, the YELLOW shifting comes from the very same place.

Questions: What's up here? Lamp not up to par? Is this a usual thing with these JVC's? Could the image chips be Monday's work?

I put screen samples in front of the area where the panel seems to be shifting, and no, just confirming my fear that there's something funny with the projector, the screen sample also shifts in the same color as my wall showed.

Nothing funny with my wall.



3) GREEN pixel 'frame': With calibration patterns, there is a 1 pixel of GREEN, framing the image on all sides, the inner most side, both TOP, BOTTOM, LEFT and RIGHT.

Issue: When showing an ANSI contrast pattern for example, there is a 1 pixel GREEN frame, framing all edges of the thrown image, on the inner sides, nothing in between the BLACK and WHITE parts.

Question: Was actually pretty excited when content was put up on screen, didn't care to look for this then, you think this is tied to the calibration patterns, or something else? Will have to re-check tomorrow.



Also, I tried Auto 1 and Auto 2 for the iris, it never seemed to adjust anything though, I think my thing is a manual adjusted iris, but cannot make a conclusion until a proper screen is in place.

With it put to 0, I am sure impressed with the brightness from my 18' throw, even with the lamp in low, put it to high and it brightens up just a bit more.

The biggest change here is whether the iris is set to -15 or 0, to be honest.


I could probably set to -15 on the iris, but the screen would have to work miracles, I think a few clicks south of 0 could do magic with the 3D or 5D.

0 if you want to go crazy.


Oh, and yeah, there definitely is a change with -15 and 0 on the iris when it comes to black level performance with content.

No change in the masking above and below the screen though, I think this change won't take place until I have a screen in place, at a closer distance to the projector than my front wall.

I think the light will have harder time traveling around and back to the wall, maybe now mostly the light hitting the letterbox areas are reflections coming of the projected surface.

Right now the projected surface is in the same depth level from the projector as the letterboxing, might be causing a part of the illuminated letterboxing I've been mentioning.

Could not answer this fully until a proper screen is in place.


And yes, I was very impressed with the black level... with content.


Thanks for all your help, very valuable and welcome!

Last edited by Vitus4K; 04-23-2020 at 03:59 PM.
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post #158 of 189 Old 04-23-2020, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
@Javs and @Mike Garrett , you're the ones I believe have the most experience with similar JVC machines as mine, so here it comes:

Did some testing this evening, I came across a couple of issues that I'll split into parts below, easier for you to address if case you decide to dig in, see below:



1) Pixel adjustment: I think one could only adjust RED and BLUE, where I think GREEN is a solid, as it acts primarily also for luminance.

Issue: I could align RED and BLUE perfectly, but using the WHITE image pattern showed GREEN as 1 or 2 pixels off to the LEFT and ABOVE the white pattern.

Questions: GREEN cannot be adjusted? RED and BLUE should be adjusted to match the WHITE pattern, or the GREEN as shown slightly misaligned to the WHITE?



2) Panel uniformity: To my very surprise, once putting up a 100% window, covering all of the image chips, showing 100% WHITE, 100% CYAN, 100% BLACK, screen is no where near uniform.

Issue: Panel uniformity seems to be an issue, hard to spot with content, but shows easily with dark scenes and when the projector is handling HDMI-shaking, gray screens seem to show when shifting.

Issue: The image shifts in YELLOW when showing 100% WHITE, 100% CYAN, but with 100% BLACK, there is gray coming from the TOP/MID-RIGHT side of the thrown image, the YELLOW shifting comes from the very same place.

Questions: What's up here? Lamp not up to par? Is this a usual thing with these JVC's? Could the image chips be Monday's work?

I put screen samples in front of the area where the panel seems to be shifting, and no, just confirming my fear that there's something funny with the projector, the screen sample also shifts in the same color as my wall showed.

Nothing funny with my wall.



3) GREEN pixel 'frame': With calibration patterns, there is a 1 pixel of GREEN, framing the image on all sides, the inner most side, both TOP, BOTTOM, LEFT and RIGHT.

Issue: When showing an ANSI contrast pattern for example, there is a 1 pixel GREEN frame, framing all edges of the thrown image, on the inner sides, nothing in between the BLACK and WHITE parts.

Question: Was actually pretty excited when content was put up on screen, didn't care to look for this then, you think this is tied to the calibration patterns, or something else? Will have to re-check tomorrow.



Also, I tried Auto 1 and Auto 2 for the iris, it never seemed to adjust anything though, I think my thing is a manual adjusted iris, but cannot make a conclusion until a proper screen is in place.

With it put to 0, I am sure impressed with the brightness from my 18' throw, even with the lamp in low, put it to high and it brightens up just a bit more.

The biggest change here is whether the iris is set to -15 or 0, to be honest.


I could probably set to -15 on the iris, but the screen would have to work miracles, I think a few clicks south of 0 could do magic with the 3D or 5D.

0 if you want to go crazy.


Oh, and yeah, there definitely is a change with -15 and 0 on the iris when it comes to black level performance with content.

No change in the masking above and below the screen though, I think this change won't take place until I have a screen in place, at a closer distance to the projector than my front wall.

I think the light will have harder time traveling around and back to the wall, maybe now mostly the light hitting the letterbox areas are reflections coming of the projected surface.

Right now the projected surface is in the same depth level from the projector as the letterboxing, might be causing a part of the illuminated letterboxing I've been mentioning.

Could not answer this fully until a proper screen is in place.


And yes, I was very impressed with the black level... with content.


Thanks for all your help, very valuable and welcome!
Do not have time to address everything, but the convergence works by adjusting the red and blue only. Green is fixed. Once you adjust the red to line up with the white lines and do the same with blue, the lines will be white from your seated distance. If you are expecting them to be perfect 2' away from the screen, you will never get there and you do not need to get there. Lines need to look white and sharp from your seat. Also blue being out does not show up when watching images.
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post #159 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Do not have time to address everything, but the convergence works by adjusting the red and blue only. Green is fixed. Once you adjust the red to line up with the white lines and do the same with blue, the lines will be white from your seated distance. If you are expecting them to be perfect 2' away from the screen, you will never get there and you do not need to get there. Lines need to look white and sharp from your seat. Also blue being out does not show up when watching images.
The problem really is my GREEN, it's 2-3 pixels off horizontally to the LEFT, nothing wrong with the vertical axis.

Since it's fixed, it'll never really match up with the white lines, it's insanely visible on sharpness patterns and text in general.

To minimize the effects and drawbacks of this I need to adjust RED and BLUE to meet the GREEN, but then again nothing really lines up with the white pattern.


Kinda confusing.
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post #160 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I seem to have issues including my MASKING settings inside a Lens Memory Setting, is this not possible with the X7900/X790R/RS540?

The only things that seem to be saved in Lens Memory is, Focus, Zoom and Shift.

Anyone able to tell for certain?
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post #161 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Just threw in The Dark Knight Rises inside my Oppo, set everything to output 4K.

But really, the image wasn't was I was expecting with e-Shift, maybe that disc isn't the best for demo purposes, but not really what I had in mind with 4K sources.

Would going with 1K sources and adding a Darbee fix my needs for a sharper image?

I understand the JVC's are softer compared to let's say an Epson or a Sony.


For the best, there's always the NX-series of course, but I want the black level, so the X7900/X790/RS540 is ideal.

Maybe feeding this projector with 1K sources and using the Darbee, paired with some 3D LUT calibration, would do wonders.


Having the lamp on high puts out quite the heat in my room, the noise is not that fun either, low lamp with SDR might just do it for me.


Thoughts?

Can you get the Darbee to a sharp '4K-like' image without adding too much distortion and ringing?
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post #162 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
The problem really is my GREEN, it's 2-3 pixels off horizontally to the LEFT, nothing wrong with the vertical axis.

Since it's fixed, it'll never really match up with the white lines, it's insanely visible on sharpness patterns and text in general.

To minimize the effects and drawbacks of this I need to adjust RED and BLUE to meet the GREEN, but then again nothing really lines up with the white pattern.
Post a picture of the convergence / pixel shift pattern, but unless you are describing this incorrectly, you have a defective projector.

The green part isn't supposed to be separated by 2-3 pixels from the white. Convergence error should be within 1/2 pixel, or the unit is defective, and really green and white should match up correctly for the most part, with a slight error on some parts of the screen being ok.

A JVC is not softer than a Sony, not generally speaking. The Epson does often look slightly sharper due to pixel fill, but not much difference from seating, and that depends on the Epson's convergence.

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post #163 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Vitus4K View Post
The problem really is my GREEN, it's 2-3 pixels off horizontally to the LEFT, nothing wrong with the vertical axis.

Since it's fixed, it'll never really match up with the white lines, it's insanely visible on sharpness patterns and text in general.

To minimize the effects and drawbacks of this I need to adjust RED and BLUE to meet the GREEN, but then again nothing really lines up with the white pattern.


Kinda confusing.
I likewise dont have time to go in depth, but, You literally cannot get white without green.

So your comments dont actually make sense to me. Are you saying you have a clean white line, then green is 2 pixels away from that? Yet you still have a white line?

Please post a pic, it tells 1000 words.

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post #164 of 189 Old 04-24-2020, 11:56 PM
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Just threw in The Dark Knight Rises inside my Oppo, set everything to output 4K.

But really, the image wasn't was I was expecting with e-Shift, maybe that disc isn't the best for demo purposes, but not really what I had in mind with 4K sources.

Would going with 1K sources and adding a Darbee fix my needs for a sharper image?

I understand the JVC's are softer compared to let's say an Epson or a Sony.


For the best, there's always the NX-series of course, but I want the black level, so the X7900/X790/RS540 is ideal.

Maybe feeding this projector with 1K sources and using the Darbee, paired with some 3D LUT calibration, would do wonders.

Having the lamp on high puts out quite the heat in my room, the noise is not that fun either, low lamp with SDR might just do it for me.

Thoughts?

Can you get the Darbee to a sharp '4K-like' image without adding too much distortion and ringing?
I wouldn't say these are soft projectors, they are very sharp actually. Its why I have stuck with my X9500 for a couple years now, Ive had a few in this room including a so called crazy sharp single chip DLP.

The Dark Knight Rises was shot on film years ago. Put a modern movie on with a proper 4K DCI not a 'remaster'.

Turn off ALL enhancements by the way, they ruin the image. Leave clear black on Low, that's the only one I condone.

A LUT wont make the image sharper either.

Sort your green problem first, you cant expect anything to be proper sharp if you have very bad convergence errors.

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post #165 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 04:59 AM
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I just received my JVC.

First impressions:

BIG, HEAVY, sweet!


Firing it up, I was first and mostly interested in seeing the black level performance of my room.

I turned everything off, everything you could imagine, put the picture mode to Cinema, 6500K.


Low/High lamp, tried both, tried clamping the iris down to the minimum, still there was light present in my masking area.

I just projected on my dark grey wall, no screen.


With some lights on I could not see the masking, it was like there was no light output from the projector at all.

I guess the ambient light was stronger than the projector light, hence why the masking could not be seen.


But that makes me question the black level reputation of these projectors.

Firstly, my room is far from optimal, but I can get it black, like, yeah, quite dark, you would not see the floor etc.

Being this dark, I can still see the JVC, I don't get the point of improving a room, or building a dedicated room when the limits already are reached in a room like mine.


How did I go about noticing this?

Well, when my room is being as dark as possible, I chose to project a black background and not blue (JVC menus), and the 'black' is like, a couple percent gray.

If I stand in front of the projector, blocking the light onto the wall, my shadow from my body is much darker and more black then the 'black' coming out of the JVC.


Am I doing something wrong?

I have no HDMI devices connected to it, just shooting the JVC menus onto my wall.


Secondly, there is also some sort of, not sure how to describe it, but - 'squeal' / 'buzz' / 'whine' each 10-15 seconds, gradually fading over 7-8 seconds, then repeats.

This is with everything turned off, no E-Shift, no nothing, pure bare bone.


I do have some lens shift, though, and some zoom, didn't try resetting the lens to check the default state.


Thanks a bunch for being helpful!

Edit: I tried all options for 'Clear Black', but nothing changed.


Also thinking, I have the JVC at a pretty long throw, should make blacks better than having it much closer to the projected surface.

Meaning, if I want to move it closer, my blacks will be even worse.


Brainstorming!

Maybe I need to play with the brightness setting? LOL!
People think that in complete darkness with no lights on and blackout blinds is the same as a room that's treated and the simple answer is there are worlds apart, in fact a room with grey painted walls is actually a lot close to the reflective performance of walls painted in a light colour than it is to a treated room.

Even with the lights on in my room you can barely make out the surface of the walls and ceiling and this is truly what is required to get the best out of a JVC never mind my Epson.

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post #166 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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@coderguy @Javs I'll have a picture or two up by tomorrow.



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People think that in complete darkness with no lights on and blackout blinds is the same as a room that's treated and the simple answer is there are worlds apart, in fact a room with grey painted walls is actually a lot close to the reflective performance of walls painted in a light colour than it is to a treated room.

Even with the lights on in my room you can barely make out the surface of the walls and ceiling and this is truly what is required to get the best out of a JVC never mind my Epson.

My front wall is dark gray, matte, maybe with a 4% reflective blend (gloss), even matte colors have gloss in them, I guess you would need an 'ultra matte' (0% gloss) black paint to solve the issue?

By issue, I'm referring to the letterboxing/masking showing up on the wall.


I'm conflicted though, because the light comes straight out the projector, without any kinds of reflections from my environment.

I just think it's the lamp that's unable to dim any further than what this JVC can.

You would need black velvet that ABSORBS light to avoid see the letterboxing/masking, at least this is my thought.
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Secondly, there is also some sort of, not sure how to describe it, but - 'squeal' / 'buzz' / 'whine' each 10-15 seconds, gradually fading over 7-8 seconds, then repeats.

This is with everything turned off, no E-Shift, no nothing, pure bare bone.

I just found a video on YouTube having the exact same noise as mine, take a listen:



Apparently this guy had his projector sent in for service for this issue, they changed the motherboard and it was fine.

I feel like my projector is quite bad now, this noise, the green convergence error etc.


I'll snap a photo tomorrow, the sound in the above video is spot on, just like mine!
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post #168 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:10 PM
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@coderguy @Javs I'll have a picture or two up by tomorrow.






My front wall is dark gray, matte, maybe with a 4% reflective blend (gloss), even matte colors have gloss in them, I guess you would need an 'ultra matte' (0% gloss) black paint to solve the issue?

By issue, I'm referring to the letterboxing/masking showing up on the wall.


I'm conflicted though, because the light comes straight out the projector, without any kinds of reflections from my environment.

I just think it's the lamp that's unable to dim any further than what this JVC can.

You would need black velvet that ABSORBS light to avoid see the letterboxing/masking, at least this is my thought.
Your X7900 should be amazing compared to my Epson 9400 and frankly I’m more than impressed with mine. Here’s a couple of photos of my screen and how the borders look, I tweaked the first photo to show exactly how I see the black borders on my screen but the second is normal.
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post #169 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:13 PM
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White is red + green + blue.

You are supposed to move red and blue to match green.

There is never a reason to move all 3 since you move the other 2 to line up with the third.
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post #170 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:26 PM
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The Dark Knight Rises was shot on film years ago. Put a modern movie on with a proper 4K DCI not a 'remaster'.
Film has more resolution than 4K digital.
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post #171 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
White is red + green + blue.

You are supposed to move red and blue to match green.

There is never a reason to move all 3 since you move the other 2 to line up with the third.
Right, so then nothing needs to line up with the white pattern?

Why is there a white pattern on the screen, for what purpose?
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post #172 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:32 PM
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Right, so then nothing needs to line up with the white pattern?

Why is there a white pattern on the screen, for what purpose?
White is only white when all 3 colors, red, green, and blue are aligned.

If red and blue are aligned and green appears off to the side, then there is no white (except where green intersects). You would have magenta where red and blue are lined up and green next to it.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...on/addcol.html

Last edited by SirMaster; 04-25-2020 at 12:37 PM.
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post #173 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Your X7900 should be amazing compared to my Epson 9400 and frankly I’m more than impressed with mine. Here’s a couple of photos of my screen and how the borders look, I tweaked the first photo to show exactly how I see the black borders on my screen but the second is normal.

Well, to be fair, it seems like you're using a 16:9 screen, I don't know which color your screen is, but it's obvious your letterbox/masking will look worse when you project the letterbox/masking on the same lateral/depth surface as the projected image.

The black portions of your screen will be lit up by the projected area, at least that's my thinking, if I'm incorrect, please correct me.

Your screen is probably brighter in terms of color than your wall, and probably more so than my own wall, making your letterbox/masking showing to that extent.


I don't doubt the Epson being worse than my JVC in this area, but your letterboxing/masking would show less if projected on the wall behind your screen, it being painted in a dark, matte tone.


I think mine is pretty good, you would most likely be liking what I have, but then again I am quite picky and want just as black as my room when darkened.

I will not bother repainting, I don't think.

Not even sure what color might be required for it not to show at all.


Thanks for your photos!
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post #174 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirMaster View Post
White is only white when all 3 colors, red, green, and blue are aligned.

If red and blue are aligned and green appears off to the side, then there is no white (except where green intersects). You would have magenta where red and blue are lined up and green next to it.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...on/addcol.html

Well, of course!

But strangely enough I do have a white pattern, and my green is to the left of it.

My pictures will show more clearly tomorrow, maybe the white isn't 100% white, as it should be when all colors overlap correctly, it might have a tone that I can't see with my eyes.


I can comment more on this tomorrow, thank you.
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post #175 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 12:39 PM
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Well, of course!

But strangely enough I do have a white pattern, and my green is to the left of it.

My pictures will show more clearly tomorrow, maybe the white isn't 100% white, as it should be when all colors overlap correctly, it might have a tone that I can't see with my eyes.


I can comment more on this tomorrow, thank you.
Because the white pattern lines are not 1 pixel wide. If the green is slightly to the left then your line will be magenta on the right, white in the middle, and green on the left.



You can see here that red and blue are almost aligned vertically, red is the lowest, followed closely by blue (making magenta), and then green is above them (making white, and then some green all on its own as there is no more red or blue that high). Both red and blue need to be moved up to meet green.

As for horizontally, red is too far the the left and blue is too far to the right and both need to be moved in toward the green which is right where the white is.

Green can't move, when everything is aligned, white will be exactly where green was on it's own

Last edited by SirMaster; 04-25-2020 at 12:45 PM.
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post #176 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 01:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Since my X7900/X790R/RS540 seems defect, I'm considering options.

My catalogue consists of mostly 4K discs, it's a not a massive price difference for me to fetch the NX5.

Lots of improvements on pretty much every aspect, except a tad less colors since there is no filter, but I'd instead get a brighter image, I think, eventhough the NX5 is 100 lumens less.

HDR tone mapping, lens memory improvements, better lens, etc etc.


The contrast is my big worry, has always been.


The X7900/X790R/RS540 is measured to the following:

With SDR material and zoomed out completely we get an on/off contrast of 137,500:1 and zoomed in we get 47,073:1 which is very good without the DI.

Source: https://www.avforums.com/reviews/jvc...r-review.14346


NX5:

We measured 460nits in the best D65 capable HDR mode (Frame Adapt) and contrast measured in at 47,734:1 (460/0.01) with no zoom and 47,874:1 (304.9/0.006) at full zoom with the manual iris wide open.

Source: https://www.avforums.com/reviews/jvc...r-review.17398


The following math should apply for my 1.35x zoom with the X7900/X790R/RS540:

137500-47073=90427

90427/100=904.27

904.27*35=31649:ish

47073 (zoomed in) + 31649 (1.35x zoom) = 78722:1


Is my contrast then 78722:1?

Seems strange that the NX5 has the same contrast no matter the zoom?
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post #177 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Green can't move, when everything is aligned, white will be exactly where green was on it's own.
Yes, I understand this.

How many pixels wide should the white pattern be once fully corrected?

My green as quite far off the white, like someone said earlier in the thread, it should be max 1/2 (half) a pixel wrong.

More is considered to be a defect.


I'll post my results tomorrow.
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post #178 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 01:17 PM
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Yes, I understand this.

How many pixels wide should the white pattern be once fully corrected?

My green as quite far off the white, like someone said earlier in the thread, it should be max 1/2 (half) a pixel wrong.

More is considered to be a defect.


I'll post my results tomorrow.
I am not exactly sure how many pixels wide the white lines are on the eShift series but I know it's more than 1.

Also make sure eShift is off when doing the alignment so you can see the pixels better.
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post #179 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I am not exactly sure how many pixels wide the white lines are on the eShift series but I know it's more than 1.

Also make sure eShift is off when doing the alignment so you can see the pixels better.

Noted, thanks!
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post #180 of 189 Old 04-25-2020, 01:51 PM
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Film has more resolution than 4K digital.
I said 4k dci. Not a digitally shot film.

Nolan's old films have crap resolution especially the 35mm portions.

The workflows from 12 years ago to now are vastly different. None of the old Nolan films are reference material visually except perhaps Dunkirk.

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