With the rapid decline in the price of the H77 and the introduction of the H78 in the US, the proliferation of new threads on the H7x has gotten out of control! As an aid to fellow H7x owners, I will try to summarize most of the major issues here, if we can keep the number of new threads under control. New/Potential owners: check here first before starting a new thread!-1) Are you going to explain everything here so I don't have to read the user manual?
No. In fact, I would encourage you to read the manual. While it has a few errors, this is the appropriate place to start. Since the H77/8/9 manuals are identical, I will provide only one link to them here: http://www.optomahometheater.com/doc...ser_manual.pdf0) What are the differences between the H76, H77, H78 and H79?
SET-UP1) Does the H7x have an offset?
- The H76 used the HD2 chip (DarkChip1) and a six segment color wheel
- The H77 uses the HD2+ (DarkChip2) with an 8 segment wheel; 2 year warranty is standard.
- The H78 in the US is the same as the H77, but with the HD2+ with DarkChip3.
- The H78 in Europe was originally the H77 with firmware and minor hardware modifications to mitigate panning and banding artifacts. As of June 2005, Both H78 models should both contain the DC3 chips.
- The H79 has a three year warranty, and probably uses some upgraded components (my guess is revision changes, but nothing of too much significance) versus the H77.
- The substantive differences between the H78 and the H79 are open for debate.
- When describing the H77 that contains the upgraded mirror timings, the proposal is to use a "+" to indicate this (i.e., H77+)
No. The lens centerline of the H76/77/78/79 all have to be placed within the boundaries of the screen, on a line with the center of the screen. This gives you approximately three inches of leeway above or below the screen to mount the projector if your dimensions are that tight due to how the chassis is laid out. The key is knowing where the center of the lens is, and making sure that it is within the vertical screen boundaries at all times.2) Is there any other way around this?
If you are using a fixed screen, you can angle the bottom of the screen out a bit, and have a complementary angle downwards on the projector. From your seating position, you are unlikely to notice keystoning if the angles are small (1 - 2 degrees). You can also twist the projector slightly if you are off of the center line of the screen, but that will be slightly more noticeable (at least it is for me).3) What is the throw ratio for the H7x?
They are medium-long throw projectors, with a throw ratio of between 1.6 - 2.1. The throw calculator is here: http://www.optomahometheater.com/con...ator_index.htm4) How loud are the H7x projectors?
They are among the quietest projectors currently on the market. While I, personally, do not find the 23dB spec to be believable, I would believe 27 - 28. I measured my H77 at 29dB, but that was only on the side the fan was on, not on the same direction as my seating.5) How bright are the H7x projectors?
Expect the H77 to provide between 400 - 450 lumens when new, after calibration.
Expect the H79 to provide between 500 - 600 lumens when new, after calibration.
The H77 upgrade will be a bit brighter than the H77.
The H78DC3 will be in between the H77 and the H79. In fact, the speculation is that lamp variability is the major determinant as to which specific unit is sold as which model. That speculation can be read here: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=5559645) Why the ranges in the above measurements? The specs say XXX!
The lamps that power projectors are pretty specialized products, and there is a lot of variability in their manufacture. Some have indicated that this variability can be as high as +/- 25% of spec.6) How do I know how much light I need?
A quick rule of thumb for reference is that movie theaters should be around 12foot-Lamberts of light, "TV brightness" is defined by the SMPTE as 35 foot-Lamberts (thanks Kevin!), and Plasma TVs are much higher (50+) still. Yes, there is a significant amount of variation between individual instance of each of these. These values are provided more for reference for how to plan against ambient light, than as strict rules. For a high amount of ambient light, aim for higher foot-Lamberts (in my space, I aim for a ftL value in the mid-20s, when the bulb is at the end of its life and is only putting out half as much light as when new).7) How do I calculate foot-Lamberts (ftL)?
Easy! Take your post-calibration illumination and divide by you screen area in feet. Then, multiply by your screen's gain. For example:
500 lumens / 25 square feet * 1.0 Gain = 20 ftL
For reference, a 25 square foot screen is 80" wide by 45" tall, and is considered a small screen. Thus, for larger screen sizes, a higher gain screen is necessary to combat ambient light as the bulb ages. As a rule of thumb, expect the bulb to lose 25% of its light output in the first 10% of its life.BASIC OPERATION1) What does picture mode do? (e.g., cinema, normal, vivid)
Picture mode are the three memories for settings for the projector. Most setting changes apply to the active input and memory combination. If you want to have different settings for different environments or different source combinations (e.g., dedicated SD DVI settings vs. HD over DVI), this is where to do it.2) What gamma should I use?
Optoma has broken the gamma options into three sets of five curves. You change which set you are using via the user menu (IMAGE->Image Mode). According to Greg Rogers' measurements, Using gamma 1 and Image Mode "TV" provides the curve that most closely matches established recommendations.3) Every time I select an input, the system hunts through all inputs. How can I make it lock to a specific input?
Turn on the Source Lock (SYSTEM Menu -> Source Lock)4) Is there some way to disable the blue power LED electronically?
Only if Optoma decides to do it. Most users use opaque tape.5) How do I set the Contrast, Brightness, and other color controls?
Ah, grasshopper, you cannot avoid the purchase of Digital Video Essentials
or AVIA Guide to Home Theater
. Check there. You will probably want to use color temperature 2, though, and TV Gamma 1.6) At least can you give me some settings which I can just plug into my machine to use?
For that, you will need to read the various threads.7) Alright, so what are the various threads?
The definitive H77 thread: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=428729
The definitive thread for the H77 upgrade: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=519152
The definitive H78 thread*: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=555043
The definitive H79 thread: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=507075
Other recent threads:
H77 upgrade in the US: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=551934
H77 Upgrade vs the DC3 models: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=556955* Note: With the possibility of the H78 in Europe also incorporating the DC3 chip, the US vs. European distinction does not seem to need to be maintained8) Speaking of Upgrades, what exactly is the upgrade for the H77?
From our European friends who have gotten this done, it seems to be a mix of minor hardware upgrades, mostly in the power supply, and new timings for the mirror controllers. The speculation is that the mirror controllers could not handle the 8 segment wheel effectively for fast motion, so that is what causes the banding, contouring and clay face artifacts. See the linked threads for more information.9) What aspect ratio should I use?
For 1:1 pixel mapping, use "native". For a slight overscan, esp. with analog sources, use "16:9". Use others as appropriate, depending upon your taste.10) Is there a way to "steer" the image on the panel for 2.35:1 movies? Does this work with DVI?
): Here' how it works:
Set up analog using component or other. Using "electronc Vertical Shift" move 2:35 picture to desired level. You then need to add about 8 numbers in the same direction to vertical shift from where the picture looks right on analog (e.g., if you steer the image upwards, then add eight clicks of additional adjustment upwards if you are going to use DVI). Go back to DVI signal and, voila, the picture stays where you put it. The only caveat with this is, it doesn't work in "native mode", only "16:9 mode".11) The picture on my screen over DVI looks too bright/dim?
Unlike other manufacturers, Optoma does not have the typical "PC/Video" toggle for DVI video levels. Instead, when you first select the DVI input, it is set to video levels (e.g., black is at RGB(16,16,16) and white is at RGB(235,235,235)). If you hit re-sync, the projector will shift to PC levels (e.g., black and white at 0 and 255, respectively). Make sure you understand which is apropriate for your use.12) I think I need to really screw-up my projector. Can you tell me how to get in the service menu?
Sure! Personally, I think that using a hammer yields a more aesthetically pleasing result, but if you want to muck around... On the projector itself, hit the Resync, Source and Enter buttons all at the same time.13) What can I do in the service menu?
Lots of things, but mostly things that may mess-up your picture. If you have your projector calibrated (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!), then your calibrator will want to have this code.
Please let me know any necessary edits, additions, deletions or corrections.