Sony VPL-VW60 Tweakers Thread - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 1624 Old 10-31-2007, 05:01 PM
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Awesome! You are right. That looks great to...

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post #32 of 1624 Old 10-31-2007, 05:57 PM
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Now after doing that my Wife prefers Custom 2.... It is looking great. I wish I could post a few screen shots. Damn!

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post #33 of 1624 Old 10-31-2007, 09:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Now after doing that my Wife prefers Custom 2.... It is looking great. I wish I could post a few screen shots. Damn!

Been fiddling with even more combinations tonight. Will post them tomorrow as I'm too tired to tell if they actually look better or not ;-)
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post #34 of 1624 Old 11-01-2007, 04:30 AM
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Same here. It is amazing what you can do to the picture when you work at it. I was happy with the out of the box performance but now I am blown away!

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post #35 of 1624 Old 11-01-2007, 05:35 PM
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Heading down now to see if I am still "blown" away by my new settings. On tap for tonite is Spiderman 2... I guess I am doing them backwards, 3...2...1...

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post #36 of 1624 Old 11-01-2007, 07:28 PM
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Hey Joe, here ya go!

Try these out...optimum settings so far. Just got hold of a BR player and watched Spiderman 3 in HD on them...my first HD movie experience and I was quite blown away. I've made some substantial changes to my settings (and opinions) and I was surprised to find how well the OOTB settings worked provided you do one little thing...switch to Manual Iris. All the difference in the world. STRONG contrast--BLACK blacks, and no color shifting or noticeable changes in intensity as with both Auto modes. Also wound up going back to Normal color space. More natural, and in HD...WOW.

Lamp: Low
Auto Iris: Manual @37%
Color Space: Normal
Contrast: 99
Brightness: 49-50 (can't quite decide)
Color: 51
Hue: 50
Color Temp: Middle
Sharpness: 0
Black Level Adjust: Off
Gamma Correction: Gamma Off
RCP: -4 on Red. (optional)

Give em a go, anyone who's willing! Please let me know what you think.
Omar
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post #37 of 1624 Old 11-01-2007, 09:24 PM
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I fooled around with MANUAL to and noticed how much deeper the black level went. It's funny you like it to. I wan't sure but I think I will stick with it to for movies. So which mode with these settings? Still CUSTOM 2? I will use them tomorrow when I get back. We are having some people over for a movie night...

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post #38 of 1624 Old 11-01-2007, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

I fooled around with MANUAL to and noticed how much deeper the black level went. It's funny you like it to. I wan't sure but I think I will stick with it to for movies. So which mode with these settings? Still CUSTOM 2? I will use them tomorrow when I get back. We are having some people over for a movie night...

For "Color Mode" I use "Middle" which is the same thing as "Custom 2" so long as you don't customize Custom 2 at all

BTW, don't worry about the PM from the other day, I called Samsung and got the answer. The UP5000 will only output high resolution audio through HDMI, so I'll need a new receiver. Already have a Denon 3808 on order.
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post #39 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 04:39 AM
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So I take it STANDARD pic mode and CUSTOM 2 pic mode are the same to? As long as you don't tweak CUSTOM 2...

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post #40 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

So I take it STANDARD pic mode and CUSTOM 2 pic mode are the same to? As long as you don't tweak CUSTOM 2...

I'm not sure if we're talking about the same thing. "Standard Pic" mode is a complete profile (found on your remote between Dynamic and Cinema). There are six possible profiles--Dynamic, Standard and Cinema (which all have preset values by Sony), then User 1, 2 and 3--giving you the option of having three profiles setup of your own. Whether Dynamic and User 1, or Standard and User 2 are the same base settings, I have no idea. I've changes all my User profiles several times so they bear no similarity to whatever they were out of the box. What I've been talking about before this, about being the same is...

Each one of these six profiles include a host of sub options under each--contrast, brightness, color temp, etc.--that you pull up when you enter the Menu after selecting a Mode.

Under the Color Temp option, "Middle" and "Custom 2" are two of the six available options. So pick a main profile (from above) go to your Menu, scroll down to Color Temp, and you will find under that six possible Color Temps: High, Middle, Low and Custom 1, 2 and 3. I'm saying that High corresponds to Custom 1, Middle to Custom 2 and Low to Custom 3, so long as you don't make any changes (ie, if you keep all the Custom settings for Bias and Gain zero'ed out).

Hope this clarifies things, let me know,
Omar
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post #41 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 07:25 AM
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can anyone tell me how to increase the brightness through the service menu?

my old ruby had the service menu tweak that increased the bulb brightness

thanks guys! this forum is great
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post #42 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james69 View Post

can anyone tell me how to increase the brightness through the service menu?

my old ruby had the service menu tweak that increased the bulb brightness

thanks guys! this forum is great

Under the main Menu, go to Cinema Black Pro, then to Lamp Settings
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post #43 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 03:12 PM
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I took some contrast ratio measurements this evening and came up with:

on/off: -19678:1
Ansi: 147:1

I have the VW60 set up the same as Omar's on page one.

I am using a Stewart StudioTek 130 and have a Panamorph U380 lense left in place and I use Anamorphic Zoom mode so as to use the entire panel and the entire screen surface.

-Mark AKA A/Vspec
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post #44 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A/Vspec View Post

I took some contrast ratio measurements this evening and came up with:

on/off: -19678:1
Ansi: 147:1

At the screen or pj?

And using a 4x4 checker board for ANSI?

Ken
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post #45 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 04:37 PM
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Again, the WV60 is truly an outstanding pj...

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post #46 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 05:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A/Vspec View Post

I took some contrast ratio measurements this evening and came up with:

on/off: -19678:1
Ansi: 147:1

I have the VW60 set up the same as Omar's on page one.

I am using a Stewart StudioTek 130 and have a Panamorph U380 lense left in place and I use Anamorphic Zoom mode so as to use the entire panel and the entire screen surface.

Any chance you could check the ANSI without the Panamorph in place? Supposedly anamorphic lenses reduce ANSI contrast 20-30%.
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post #47 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken Tripp View Post

At the screen or pj?

And using a 4x4 checker board for ANSI?

Ken

About a foot away from the screen. It was with a split screen 50/50 from a Sencor VP401 and I used a Sencor OCT1000 sensor. The software automaticly pics the pattern to send which is the 50/50 (top and bottom) image.

-Mark AKA A/Vspec
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post #48 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabbas View Post

Any chance you could check the ANSI without the Panamorph in place? Supposedly anamorphic lenses reduce ANSI contrast 20-30%.

Sorry it is permanently mounted in a keyhole in the wall. Way to much work to remove it. Besides, I would not even want to know… I like my 2.35:1 setup way to much!


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post #49 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 07:45 PM
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Okay, that is a pretty sweet screen. What is that, 133" diagonal?
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post #50 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 08:10 PM
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I am now using Omar's Custom 2 with Advanced Iris set to Manual at 37. That gives the deepest (and nicest) Black level I have seen so far. Nice and inky. And as long as you dial in colors and contrast you also get great shadow detail. We have to be near or at the point where we have reached the best possible image for the Black Pearl. Spiderman 3 and Meet the Robinsons looked spectacular!

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post #51 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A/Vspec View Post

I took some contrast ratio measurements this evening and came up with:

on/off: -19678:1
Ansi: 147:1

I have the VW60 set up the same as Omar's on page one.

I am using a Stewart StudioTek 130 and have a Panamorph U380 lense left in place and I use Anamorphic Zoom mode so as to use the entire panel and the entire screen surface.

Hey Mark, which set of settings that I posted? There were several trials.

These are the ones I currently prefer, did you try them?

Lamp: Low
Auto Iris: Manual @37%
Color Space: Normal
Contrast: 99
Brightness: 49
Color: 51
Hue: 50
Color Temp: Middle
Sharpness: 0
Black Level Adjust: Off
Gamma Correction: Gamma Off
RCP: Off

Omar
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post #52 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 10:35 PM
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On a completely different note, I'm trying to find both a great BR and HD player. Any suggestions? I was thinking about getting the Sammy UP5000 when it comes out, but after some looking I've seen that Sammy has a pretty bad rap. Was thinking about doing a PS3 and an A30 or A35. Will these allow me to send high resolution audio out to a Denon 3808 (which supports decoding for *everything*) so I won't loose anything on the audio side?

Omar
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post #53 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 10:39 PM
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As of now the best out there is the Toshiba A35 (complete) and Pioneer 95FD. The sammy 1400 will do it all to for much less then the Pioneer but if you want better features then go with the 95FD...

I have an amazing 995ES with the new 3.1 firmware for sale. Send me a PM...
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post #54 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 10:43 PM
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I'm test driving a 1400 right now, and thought it was great until it started studdering all over the place in Spiderman 2 BR (and the firmware update I just did tonight didn't help), 2001 and Bram Stoker's. Sheesh. Any such issues with the Pioneer?
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post #55 of 1624 Old 11-02-2007, 10:43 PM
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Also thinking about that new Panasonic DMP-BD30k...
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post #56 of 1624 Old 11-03-2007, 04:45 AM
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I am looking at the LG BH-200 which should be arriving at the warehouse before Thanksgiving. However with all the deals on the separate players and the free disc's you can get with them I am starting to re-thing my decision and might go with two separate players. For HD-DVD I guess only the A35 with fit the bill as I would like to have the HD audio sent out direct to my DTC-9.8 and I of course have to have 1080/24p.

Joe, it is nice to see you here in this thread and over in the Onkyo/Integra thread. We must have the same gear in are theaters... What features do you think would be used on the 95FD that the 1400 does not have? I only want the movie and don’t care about extras.

Back on thread track:

Omar, I am going to try your latest settings this morning and I will re-take the contrast test and also re-check grayscale. Why did you have to go back to "normal color space"?

Stay tuned....

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post #57 of 1624 Old 11-03-2007, 05:29 AM
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The Pioneer lets you change resolution on the fly (from the remote) without having to go into a set up menu. To me that alone is huge. Plus it has its gallery feature. And also it has some nice picture adjustments.The picture is also sharper. And it does play the Spiderman's without issue!

If you have the 905 Onkyo receiver and you need the new firmware send me a PM with your email address!

I have an amazing 995ES with the new 3.1 firmware for sale. Send me a PM...
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post #58 of 1624 Old 11-03-2007, 05:52 AM
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Mark,

Thanks for checking out the new settings. I'm looking forward to hearing what you find out.

I went back to Normal color space because as much as I liked a lot of the effects of Wide, at times it seemed to make some colors better while making others "too much". I couldn't get it to be consistent. For example, near the beginning of T2, when we're first introduced to John Conner, it added a nice punch to greens (the grass and bushes in the yard, green fatigue jacket) and blues (the sky and his friend's and father's blue jean jacket/pants/shirt), but at the same time reds were just unnaturally florescent--like the motorcycle seat and large tool chest. I also noticed that Wide was not necessary for extra punch with HD discs, they have more color density and richness overall. Not sure if this is due a color space spec in the mastering process or just the fact that there are many more pixels of true information than with an upconverted SD disc.

I also found that putting the Color Temp to Middle gave a nice healthy emphasis to colors by removing the yellow stain created by Low. If Low actually is 6500 K, I have a real problem with it. You know, 6500K is supposed to "represent the color of natural sunlight at noontime", and lemme tell ya--that light may be yellowish, but it ain't pee-stain colored. I don't know where people get the idea that sunlight is a dingy yellow (probably started with some color-blind nerd scientist in the 1940s), but it's not. I live in Florida and ummm, I'm out in the sunlight every afternoon and I'm hear to tell you, the white we see represented in the Middle color space is MUCH MUCH more realistic than the moldy yellow-white you get with Low. The Low color space not only stains all the white in my picture with yellow, it washes out all the colors in the picture too. Now, maybe Low doesn't really equal 6500K, I'm willing to go with that, but if it does, someone needs to seriously rethink what the white reference point is. Because I can take a sheet of white copy paper out in the afternoon and hold it out in natural light, and it is a very clean white--and this white does not exist ANYWHERE at ANYTIME in my movies so long as the Color Space is set to Low. It does however exist in my movies if the Color Space is set to Middle.

Hope I'm not rambling too much, just woke up and trying to make sense to myself.

Omar
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post #59 of 1624 Old 11-03-2007, 06:01 AM
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Which is probably why gregr prefers MIDDLE for color temp. I actually have since day one.

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post #60 of 1624 Old 11-03-2007, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joerod View Post

Which is probably why gregr prefers MIDDLE for color temp. I actually have since day one.

Ah, thanks for the confirmation! I haven't read his review yet because the magazine hasn't reached my Books A Million yet, probably will be in this week. Does Middle represent 6500 more accurately, or is it just more realistic but a different temp?
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