Help! Samsung DTB-H260F died - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-13-2011, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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My well-used DTB-H260F just appeared to die (power on light not displaying). Assuming it's dead, what is a good replacement? I see some used H260F's out there, but for a new unit, all I see that might be comparable is the PrimeDTV PHD-8VX.

My requirement is rf coax in (OTA from amplified attic antenna) ATSC tuner with HDMI 1080i RGB video AC3 bitstream audio out to my Denon AVR for display on CRT RPTV (DVI in) with HDCP. Additional output on component would be nice but not vital.

The H260F built a mini- EPG from I guess PSIP data. Not sure if any unit today can do that?

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post #2 of 18 Old 08-13-2011, 06:19 PM
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Having used both, the newer PHD8VX does have a much better tuner. And does provide program info.
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post #3 of 18 Old 08-13-2011, 06:41 PM
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A bad capacitor is the most common problem. Check the H260F thread and open yours up to see if it blew the capacitor.
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post #4 of 18 Old 08-14-2011, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeff2631 View Post

A bad capacitor is the most common problem. Check the H260F thread and open yours up to see if it blew the capacitor.

I was thinking maybe a fuse, but once I get it open will check out the caps too. I know that's a problem in a lot of equipment. I might pop for that PHD8VX as a backup plan.

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post #5 of 18 Old 08-14-2011, 07:52 PM
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I have had a couple of these with bad capacitors that had no visible indications that the caps were bad. You have to just change them and see if it helps in some cases.

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post #6 of 18 Old 08-14-2011, 10:13 PM
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How old was your Samsung DTB-H260F? I have one that will be three years old in December. With football season starting up I sure hope mine keeps working. Its the only ATSC Tuner I have.

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post #7 of 18 Old 08-15-2011, 01:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Jedi Master View Post
How old was your Samsung DTB-H260F? I have one that will be three years old in December. With football season starting up I sure hope mine keeps working. Its the only ATSC Tuner I have.
Jan 2007. I have a Funai built Magnavox HD-DVR with ATSC which is nice but only outputs SD video.

I also have a Sammy Sir T351 but that one has such a lame tuner I hesitate to haul it back out.

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post #8 of 18 Old 08-16-2011, 12:10 AM
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Its really upsetting when electronic equipment goes out. My Xbox 360 got the red ring of death a few weeks ago. I would be better off buying a new Xbox 360 slim than trying to get my old one fixed.

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post #9 of 18 Old 08-31-2011, 05:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zaphod7501 View Post

I have had a couple of these with bad capacitors that had no visible indications that the caps were bad. You have to just change them and see if it helps in some cases.

Closing the loop on this. I opened up the unit and it is very simple. One board for the power supply that is easily removed. I couldn't see any visible problems, but from Samsung H260F caps thread I found a post with vendor part no for all the electrolytics, so for $6 I just ordered a kit from Digikey. They came in and I just replaced the whole lot. Not hard but just one small one, 1 uF, doesn't have polarity marked on the board so you have to keep track when you pull the old one.

Put it all back together, powered it up and I have a "blue light" again. Back in service, seemingly good as new.

Still thinking about the PHD8VX but it has a bunch of features I don't really need. Also the ChannelMaster 7000PAL is kind of expensive, if they did a technology refresh I might reconsider it.

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post #10 of 18 Old 09-01-2011, 01:56 AM
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Do you have a soldering gun and know how to solder? I don't have one and have never soldered in my life. Just wondering in case my Samsung goes out. If it goes out Saturday Sept. 3rd which is the first Saturday of college football season I would scream.

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post #11 of 18 Old 09-02-2011, 12:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Years ago, I built some "Heath-kit" type stuff. I have kind of a cheap-ass soldering iron. Not like a proper Weller soldering station. The board in the Samsung is very basic -- like you might see 30 years ago. All the parts are through-hole mounted. So you just need to heat up the solder joints until you can pull off the old cap, then poke through the new part and flow a little solder. How I learned was to use some sandpaper on the part leads to get off any oxide, tin the iron with solder and use a damp sponge to keep the iron tip clean. It helps to have a little practice, to know how much to heat then add the right amount of solder, and know what a good vs cold joint looks like. But the board in the Samsung is pretty fool-proof so you could probably do OK just practicing on it.

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post #12 of 18 Old 09-02-2011, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jedi Master View Post

Do you have a soldering gun and know how to solder? I don't have one and have never soldered in my life. Just wondering in case my Samsung goes out. If it goes out Saturday Sept. 3rd which is the first Saturday of college football season I would scream.

@Jedi Master: I know you like the Samsung box, but I would recommend upgrading to the PHD-8VX box from PrimeDTV. For the simple reason it has a much better, much more sensitive tuner, and I believe you may be in a fringe area for the Atlanta stations. So if you want a better chance of pulling in the Atlanta channels, I would suggest upgrading the tuner. I replaced my Samsung box with the PHD-8VX and got much better results. Got channels the Samsung would not decode. A few of their early PHD units reportedly had technical problems, but I've had no problems with mine. Email epVision and request coupon code for discount. Also an ultra low noise preamp from Ability HDTV helped me recieve a weak low power translator signal that the CM7777 would not. Also consider Kitztech if very low noise is needed.
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post #13 of 18 Old 09-03-2011, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tylerSC View Post

@Jedi Master: I know you like the Samsung box, but I would recommend upgrading to the PHD-8VX box from PrimeDTV. For the simple reason it has a much better, much more sensitive tuner, and I believe you may be in a fringe area for the Atlanta stations. So if you want a better chance of pulling in the Atlanta channels, I would suggest upgrading the tuner. I replaced my Samsung box with the PHD-8VX and got much better results. Got channels the Samsung would not decode. A few of their early PHD units reportedly had technical problems, but I've had no problems with mine. Email epVision and request coupon code for discount. Also an ultra low noise preamp from Ability HDTV helped me recieve a weak low power translator signal that the CM7777 would not. Also consider Kitztech if very low noise is needed.

If I upgrade I'll probably upgrade to the Channelmaster 7000 DVR. Three months after I bought my Samsung the Dish DTV DVR Pal came out. I was upset but I wanted to get my moneys worth out of the Samsung before upgrading. I'm 83 miles from the Atlanta stations and all I have is an indoor antenna.

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-22-2013, 06:18 PM
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Hello,

I have this box. It died recently. I can't find the parts list you were referring to in you post. Can you tell me the part numbers you ordered from Digikey?

Thank you,
Sean
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post #15 of 18 Old 07-23-2013, 11:44 AM
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The Samsung was a very nice box, but newer models now have much better tuners. PHD-208 from ePVision is a new model with a very good tuner, and their are some cheaper models such as Homeworx or iView that can also function as a DVR. Something to consider, although that Samsung did indeed have a very nice channel guide and menu interface.
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post #16 of 18 Old 05-13-2014, 11:48 AM
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Hello all. I came here to find out more about my Samsung DTB-H260F. It recently stopped working and I'm trying to repair it. I found the Bad Caps forum with instructions on replacing the caps, and did that as the symptoms looked like that was the problem. But now the unit comes on for about 15 seconds before the blue light goes out. I get no signal. I've checked the voltage outputs on the power supply and they look good until the unit goes out. I've also found that if I press the SW1 button on the other board it will continue to stay on - as long as I press it before the ~15 second time period. I get no signal on the TV at all, though. Does anyone have an idea what I should do next, or should I give up and buy another tuner. I'm using the OTA signal with a roof-mount antenna, so I need another unit that will capture OTA signals and send it to my HDTV. Thanks.

 

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Update: I believe I'll just bite the bullet and get another box. I'm looking at the Prime DTV PHD-VRX2. It looks like a significant upgrade from the PHD-208. Does anyone have experience with this tuner or any other advice to offer?

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post #17 of 18 Old 05-19-2014, 08:11 PM
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My DTB-H260F had the power down problem as well, I stopped using it.  I spent about a half or year or so trying to find an ATSC tuner with a switch to select component out resolution.   I use this interface specifically for a digital CRT, which has a great image, when provided with digital component signals.  I was surprised that DTB-H260Fs are going for more on eBay than I paid for a new unit-- when they sold these at BestBuy?  I decided to fix mine.  I followed the suggestions at BADCAPS.  The recommendation is to replace two specific caps first.  These are the pair of 1000uf 10V caps right at the front edge of the PS board labeled 'PPCJ1' and 'PPCF1'.  Replacing just those two caps worked for me.  If anyone else has this tuner and it will not stay on, you might be able to fix it for a couple of dollars, if your tuner had the same problem as mine.

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post #18 of 18 Old 05-19-2014, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by henzap View Post
 

My DTB-H260F had the power down problem as well, I stopped using it.  I spent about a half or year or so trying to find an ATSC tuner with a switch to select component out resolution.   I use this interface specifically for a digital CRT, which has a great image, when provided with digital component signals.  I was surprised that DTB-H260Fs are going for more on eBay than I paid for a new unit-- when they sold these at BestBuy?  I decided to fix mine.  I followed the suggestions at BADCAPS.  The recommendation is to replace two specific caps first.  These are the pair of 1000uf 10V caps right at the front edge of the PS board labeled 'PPCJ1' and 'PPCF1'.  Replacing just those two caps worked for me.  If anyone else has this tuner and it will not stay on, you might be able to fix it for a couple of dollars, if your tuner had the same problem as mine.

Thanks - but I already tried replacing all the caps and it still doesn't work. It went from about 1 second with the blue light on before replacing the caps to about 15 seconds after. But I can't get a signal out at all. I've tried to find out if there's anything else I can do to test it, but so far without any luck. I'm now looking at the Channel Master DVR+ as a replacement (and upgrade). If you have any other advice I'd love to hear it.

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