Eagle Aspen ROTR100 DiSEqC antenna rotor - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 228 Old 07-16-2008, 02:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I have taken amny of the CM design apart, but didn't think about their design. I have CM rotor in my attic upside down. I Contacted CM anregarding the above issue of the compas directions being reverse and the told me to reverse #1 & 2 wires (if I recall correctly). Unfortunately, that can't be done here.

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post #32 of 228 Old 07-16-2008, 08:18 PM
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CAN I TALK TO THEM?
videobruce, your posting of {05-03-07, 08:03 AM} says that you asked Eagle Aspen a technical question (about the lag between actual and reported rotor position). How could I ask them whether upside-down installation would be a problem in terms of tensile (instead of compressive) load on the ROTR100?

About the reverse-compass-rose (or maybe call it the mirror-image) problem of upside-down installation: If Eagle Aspen perhaps had a jumper inside the controller that I could change in order to make things right, that would be nice. However, since the product claims superior repeatability and provides 99 memory settings, the problem matters very little, is just a minor inconvenience.

Nonetheless, if I can get the upside-down installation to work well mechanically, I might later try cracking open the controller box in order to hack it appropriately. It would be nice to have the circuit schematic in that case. (Nod, wink) Sounds like a nice project for a rainy Saturday afternoon.

But anyway, the limiting factor is the ROTR100's bearing design.

BUT WHY INSTALL UPSIDE-DOWN?
To install a rotor right-side-up in my attic, I'd need to fasten a plywood platform to the joists beneath my feet, erect a tripod on it, and place the world's shortest mast on top of that. That begins to cost $$ and hassle.

For upside-down installation, I simply tie the rotor to an interior horizontal roofing cross brace. There is plenty of room to accommodate an antenna beneath the brace. Cost is drilling four holes through the wooden brace.
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post #33 of 228 Old 07-16-2008, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I have taken amny of the CM design apart, but didn't think about their design. I have CM rotor in my attic upside down. I Contacted CM anregarding the above issue of the compas directions being reverse and the told me to reverse #1 & 2 wires (if I recall correctly). Unfortunately, that can't be done here.

You know, without any wind jarring it around all the time, it'll probably work fine like that for quite some time. The snap ring has a washer under it plus it's greased. And we're only talking 1 RPM here...
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post #34 of 228 Old 07-17-2008, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


That begins to cost $$ and hassle.

Come on. I've spent over $700 on my setup and you are worrying about a $30 tripod? Build it out of wood.

Here is what I did. The antenna shown was sold. It was only used on a temporary basis. I have another 4228 on the roof.
I will call EA and see what they say.
LL
LL

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post #35 of 228 Old 07-17-2008, 12:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I called Eagle Aspen (Pro Brand, take your pick) and asked about a upside down mount.
He told me he didn't think it would be a problem, as it is a very similar design to the CM since it was (supposely) designed by the same person (other than the motor).
I also asked about the reverse compass directions. There is no solution other than after you program in the channel numbers, it wouldn't be a issue any more since you are only interested in a channel number.

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post #36 of 228 Old 07-17-2008, 08:26 PM
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Thank you for asking them! Let them know that you just made 'em a sale.

So now I'm looking for an appropriate preamp that will run on the ROTR100's 17VDC / 50mA budget. But I'll take this Q&A to a different thread.
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post #37 of 228 Old 07-18-2008, 03:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I would NOT use the downlead as the power cable (even though it is temping to do so). There is too much loss running through those two devices which is unnessary. See my review about this.
It's not hard to use a two conductor cable that is soldered to short pieces of RG59 with a F fitting on each end as I did.

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post #38 of 228 Old 08-18-2008, 09:31 AM
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I was close to buying a CM 9521A, but after reading Videobruce's review of the Eagle Aspen I decided not to. Besides the difference in factory warranty's and the repeatability of the two rotors the Eagle Aspen was the clear choice. Thanks videobruce for helping me avoid a mistake. I'm preparing now for Feb. 2009, since I live in Michigan and don't want to be on my roof with snow under my feet. Have you (videobruce) or anyone else have anything to add to the ownership of the Eagle Aspen ROTR100? Any comments welcomed!!!
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post #39 of 228 Old 08-18-2008, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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One thing I didn't do was to cut off the overly long threaded bolts (eight in all). 1 1/2 to 2" could be trimmed from the length.
As with any rotor, run a ground 'jumper' around the rotor bypassing it. Don't rely on the rotor to pass a discharge through it because it won't.

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post #40 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 08:28 AM
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as i read this, you are using a second wire to operate the rotor, and could i use my existing 3 conductor wire from my old rotor for this. also if so cuold you post pictures of your 2wire with soldered f connections?
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post #41 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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If you are replaceing an existing install, you can use two of the three (or four) wires in the orginal rotor cable.

Just strip two pieces of RG59 (RG 6 is not necessary) back a couple of inches, separate the shield from the dielectric, twist the stands together, solder one wire to the shield and the other to the center conductor. Insulate the two and use heat shrink tubing to cover the length of the splice. Add fittings on each end if you haven't already. You could use one of those pre-made 'jumper' cables, but I never trusted those fittings. I have had to many fail on me.
That's it.

It might be easier to pull the rotor wire down to a area that is easy to work on to add the short RG59 jumper (adapter) cable. Inside should be no issue.

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post #42 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 08:38 AM - Thread Starter
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DiSEqC was a good idea if they kepted it separate from the coax. To much of a current limitation and in this case, too much loss.

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post #43 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 09:03 AM
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this case i can use whatever pre amp that i want...Correct??
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post #44 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 09:25 AM
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can i just add a splitter to a preamp to go to another tv set. split just before going into current tv??
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post #45 of 228 Old 09-25-2008, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes and yes.

BTW, you can edit your post if you need to instead of posting again and welcome to the forums.

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post #46 of 228 Old 09-26-2008, 10:44 AM
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thank you, your information has sold another EA. i was on the edge about it until i read all this information. i live on top of south mountain shippensburg pa, which is supposed to have some of the best reception on the east coast, i pick up stations 75 miles away in dc and baltimore, yet cant get stations in altoona, so i think im gonna pickup a cm 777 to get an extra boost.. btw the better than antennaweb works great!!
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post #47 of 228 Old 09-27-2008, 09:15 AM
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I bought this rotor and I'm very happy with it. I can get in several channels, but 1 of the channels out of Chicago is weak (55-70 on my converter box signal meter) depending on were the antenna is positioned. The company I bought the rotor from recommends the Channel Master CM 0068DSB pre amp for this rotor. After checking out the installation sheet it appears to be the same as the Eagle Aspen (running the power up the RG6 cable). Is this the same type of mistake you want to avoid as with the Eagle Aspen rotor? Any Recommendations on a pre amp? I'm using a Winegard HD8800 Antenna on top of the rotor
Thanks
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post #48 of 228 Old 09-27-2008, 12:25 PM
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Upon further reading I guess I answered my own question about using the RG6 cable as a power source. I'm considering the Channel Master 0068DSB or the Winegard AP4800 Pre Amp. Since my antenna is UHF only, I don't need the VHF capability of the CM. My stations range from 30 to 50 miles away. NONE of the channels come in 80% or better on my converter box signal meter. So I'm guessing the AP4800 over the AP4700. Does this sound right?
Thanks for any help on this matter
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post #49 of 228 Old 09-27-2008, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Best to ask that in the amp/pre-amp thread.

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post #50 of 228 Old 11-14-2008, 05:06 AM
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as my username suggests, I live in Minnesota, so I need a good answer QUICK...LOL
I do not have a rotor now, but have been considering the Eagle Aspen rotor.
We get a good picture now, so...
Can I use the exsisting coax
and how do these rotors perform with the analog/digital convertor boxes.
With no problems I hope, same for the cable....
Why quick...?
Minnesota,,today I can get on the roof...tomorrow...who knows
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post #51 of 228 Old 11-14-2008, 09:30 AM
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I highly recommend you run a separate cable. Running it all through 1 coax cable is just asking for problems...
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post #52 of 228 Old 11-14-2008, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Symbios View Post

I highly recommend you run a separate cable. Running it all through 1 coax cable is just asking for problems...

thanks for your reply.
Maybe I need to rephrase this...
Will my exsisting coax work..at least, for now.
I have been looking at conventional rotors, which use the standard three wire cable...
I was interestedin the Eagle Aspen rotar, because it was designed to work with the one coax...thus making this "Late in the season" installation...as simple as possible.
looks like mounting the unit, ad a short piece of coax from antenna to the mast drive unit, hook up the exsisting coax...wa..la
leaving replacing, or adding cable for spring...Because..
Working on icy, snow covered roof ; could be asking for problems too

If I was to install more coax...how would this be all hooked up
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post #53 of 228 Old 11-14-2008, 02:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Yes, it will work (for now).

BTW, it really isn't obvious where you are from and welcome to the forums.

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post #54 of 228 Old 12-09-2008, 06:35 AM
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Just for your information on my setup. I installed a Eagle Aspen rotor with an
Winegard HD8800 UHF antenna and a Winegard AP4700 pre amp. I used
the RG6 copper center wire for the antenna leads and a separate copper coated
coax wire to control the rotor (power). Also, I ordered a piece of aluminum pipe
(will never rust) with a 1/4" wall thickness for the mast from a internet metal supplier. I live between 30 and 50 miles from the T.V. station towers, I am using a converter box at this time and just about all channels come in 85% or better on the signal meter. It took some research and money but this setup works very well for me. With the T.V. stations being about 180 degrees apart, a rotor was a must have item. I have been using this setup for several months now with no regrets.
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post #55 of 228 Old 05-20-2009, 06:37 PM
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Reading this thread last year (2008) I was going to purchase one of these to replace an old Radio Shack rotor.

Most of the sites show this item as DISCONTINUED.

Anyone know if something better is in the works, or is it gone forever?
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post #56 of 228 Old 05-21-2009, 05:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I just discovered this a few weeks ago. I called their number and was told they were looking for another manufacture to produce these units since the two Chineese companies that supplied these raised prices, making them uncompetitive. As of now, no word on any new source yet. I hope they find someone since I still feel it's a decent buy in spite of the 'quirks'.

Having said that, I did run into a problem 2 years after I purchased my unit. To make a long story short, five of the six screws that hold the main motor/gear plate to the housing loosened and fell out inside the housing causing the circuit board on the motor and the main control board to short out. The rotor stopped responding. I ran some checks without removing the rotor and called the company. We came to the conclusion that it was the control board. I ordered a replacement for $18 (plus shipping). I also ordered a whole replacement rotor for $38 as a spare. When I received the order I removed the rotor and noticed something rattleing around inside. I had no idea what it was untill I removed the bottom plate. From all the recent windy days we have had in the past year or so, the constant rocking back and forth loosened those screws and all but one fell out. One 'cap' on the manin board completely broke off, but something else went south since replaceing that disn't solve the problem. I replaced the board with the new one, but the motor still didn't respond.

I called the company back and told them even though it was one year over the warrenty period I fealt I shouldn't have to take the 'hit' for this. He aggreed and sent me another rotor at no charge. I used the rotor I purchased to replace the orginal and now have a spare.
He admitted this has happened before. There was a black substance on the screw threads which was suppose to prevent this, but it seemed more like dried grease. I removed the screws on the replacement and used lock washers this time and tightened them down as best I could. I'm hoping that will do the trick.

I dissasembled the orginal rotor and I canm report all the gears are metal! The ball bearings are in a 'race' that prevents them from dropping out. Unlike the orginal Channel master design where only grease holds them in palvce (if your lucky), these can't fall out so you can't loose them. They are also twice the size of the CM design. The only reason one would have to remove that plate is to replace the motor itself since the screws that hold it in place are only accessible from inside. I can't see any way any of those gears would fail.

Thre was concern regarding the small motor. With the gear reduction, I really don't see a issue here. It's not lifting the antenna, it's just turning it. One note of caution, I don't know if I would use this rotor mounted upside down in an attic (hanging from the rafters) since the 'clip' that holds the main shaft in place isn't made to support all that weight. The CM design is somewhat better in this repsect.

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post #57 of 228 Old 05-21-2009, 07:43 AM
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Interesting. I hope they've got a new model planned and are not getting out of the rotor market... This has been the best rotor I've ever owned.
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post #58 of 228 Old 05-21-2009, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
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AFAIK, it's the same design.
I would suggest calling them to show interest. Ask them when are more expected. Tell them you are interested and you know others are also. I just talked to them about something else and was told "they are getting closer".

Pro Brand International: 770-423-7072

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post #59 of 228 Old 05-23-2009, 09:42 AM - Thread Starter
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reserved


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post #60 of 228 Old 05-23-2009, 04:58 PM
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Thanks for the updates! I will contact them next week and express my interest. I may buy two just to make sure that I have extra parts.
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