Eagle Aspen ROTR100 DiSEqC antenna rotor - Page 3 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #61 of 228 Old 06-10-2009, 12:05 PM
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An update here from a new AVSF member.... I read all of this thread and contacted Eagle Aspen/PBI through their customer support email. I asked....

Hello,

I have read very good reviews on the ROTR100 but cannot find it anywhere. If this is discontinued, do you have a suggested replacement or a new product planned that also has the position feedback feature?


Their reply was...

Soon we will be resuming production of the ROTR100 is should be available by early September.


To which I replied....

Q1) Will the production in September be the same model & features?

Q2) Or are you coming out with a new model?

Q3) I managed to locate a brand new ROTR100 yesterday on eBay (still in the bags/box) from a place that was going out of business. Will the warranty still be good on this?

Q4) Do you have any tips or recommendations about the use of the ROTR100 that are not in the manual? Is there a user forum?


Based on some things I read on the internet about signal performance degradation, I am not interested in the single/shared coax wire/control feature. I plan on running a separate set of wires for rotor control to maintain optimal signal performance. I wanted the ROTR100 (even if discontinued) because it is the only lower end rotator with “position sensing”.


If you are looking at a new design and it is not too late, I would suggest that the new ROTR100 remote be a universal remote capable of being programmed to change the channels of an HDTV or converter box and auto-rotate the antenna to the correct position at the same time. Make the auto-rotate feature a settable option though, that when turned “off” requires a channel selection, then only a single press of a “position rotor” button to rotate to the correct position for that channel. It is important that the remote be able to keep track of a channel list (with associated rotor position angle) so that the up/down channel button can be used. A typical scenario when NOT in “auto-rotate” mode would be to press the up button several times to find the channel you want (without the rotor swinging around) and then when the desired channel is reached, pressing the “position rotor” button to move the rotor to whatever channel is selected in the list.


A phenomenal product to have had last year and this year would have been a good converter box with built in rotor control (with position sensing). I think you would have stole the hearts of all the internet forums and locked in a ton of business. This may still be a viable product.


To which they replied....

1 & 2) The one is September will be the same, latter we may come out with an updated model

3) The warranty will still be good

4) No sorry don’t have anything other than what is in the manual.


We will keep in mind your suggestions for future models.


So that's the end of the update. I lucked out and found a new one on eBay, and there is hope for any of you just reading this and wanting a relatively inexpensive rotor with a position sensor. I will post back with the results of my experiences with it. I am located in Northern CO about 60 miles from Denver's broadcast towers in one direction, 10 miles from a Fort Collins tower in another direction and 40 miles from southern WY towers in a 3rd direction. My next chore is researching antenna mast pre-amps. Should I get a medium gain pre-amp (16 db) or high gain (28 dB). I have a medium sized two-story with a lot of coax running to a lot of rooms through many splitters. I think the higher gain would be better, but am concerned about saturation for the tower signal only 10 miles away.... if any one has any thoughts, let me know. Otherwise I will take this discussion to one of the many pre-amp threads.
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post #62 of 228 Old 06-11-2009, 09:25 AM - Thread Starter
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More people should do what you did and contact the company with input. A couple of calls doesn't mean a whole lot, but wioth enough interest it might.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

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post #63 of 228 Old 08-24-2009, 09:24 AM
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Has Anyone noticed that 2150 doesnt seem to work anymore!
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post #64 of 228 Old 08-24-2009, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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If you mean 2150.com, the owner doesn't seem to be interested in keeping the site up and he dropped it.
Too bad, it was superior to all others, or with a few treaks it would/could of been.

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post #65 of 228 Old 09-03-2009, 07:21 AM
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does anyone have the next best thing to 2150.com, tvfool seems to be decent but not nearly as nice or easy as 22150.com
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post #66 of 228 Old 09-03-2009, 08:27 AM - Thread Starter
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There isn't any.
I couldn'd aggree with you more. Unfortunately, we are a minority. The members that seems to love it think it's the cats meow.

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post #67 of 228 Old 09-03-2009, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Back OT, I just spoke with Eagle Aspen and production isn't starting until the end of this month or beginning of next month and

deliveries won't be until the middle of December or the beginning of January.

Just in time for antenna installation season.

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post #68 of 228 Old 11-24-2009, 09:54 AM
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Well, after a year and half of turning my 170" antenna in high winds, extreme heat and extreme cold, my ROTR100 has called it quits. It just stopped turning one day. I opened it up and it is amazingly clean inside. The motor is fine, the gearing is fine, but it seems the hall sensor has failed. It doesn't know where it's going anymore, it just keeps turning until the limiter kicks in and it freezes.

Even though it did eventually fail, the reliability of this thing still amazes me. Never had to touch it during the time it was on my roof. I'd buy another one in a heartbeat, that is, if I could...
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post #69 of 228 Old 11-24-2009, 10:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Give them a call and see if they will send you that parts you need.

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post #70 of 228 Old 01-03-2010, 04:14 PM
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VideoBruce,

Great posts. Probably the only post that I followed from start to finish in one reading. Usually the replies get out of hand so they are not worth the effort to follow. I may put up a Rohn 25G tower and side mount the ROTR100 on one of the legs. I have some Amateur radio antennas lined up to go on top.
As for antennas to put on this rotor, what is the highest bowtie reflector type that is out there now? Need something that can be side mounted and be able to swing roughly 180° without the sides hitting the tower. Don't think side mounting 6 to 10 out feet is feasible. This rotor needs to handle it with or without a thrust bearing TB-105 or equiv. As for signal loss. I'm looking into designing a preamp using a MiniCircuit Monolithic Amplifier device. Good gain and a much lower noise figure then what is out there. If anyone is interested in this project, I'll start a different thread.
Before I forget. What was the 2150.com about? I host websites and maybe if it was a worthwhile site I will contact the owner and see if he would not mind someone taking over the site. Seems like some of you miss this site.

Happy New year !

P.S. Symbios, if they don't have the part, there should be a hall effect device to replace it.
Just a quick Google search found this site. http://www.hallsensors.de/Hall-IC.htm. Probably some state side places to purchase the device..
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post #71 of 228 Old 01-04-2010, 04:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The redesigned 4228 (from China) was a huge disappointment (in more ways then just the design). Those similar designed 'things' from Antennas Direct aren't any better. The flying saucer designed versions are terrible according to HDTV Primer. The Winegard designed 8 bay (which is still current) was never popular. The original 4228 is still available if you search long enough. There is a guy in Calif. that has three and he also has two 4251's (that 7' parabolic dish classic).

The guy (former AVS Forum member from NJ) that ran 2150 apparently lost interest in maintaining the sight. AFAIC, it's a huge loss as I don't like TV Fool (forget about that other site). I contacted him a couple of times, but recently he was unresponsive so I gave up. I was hoping someone would take over the site. Plaese give it a try. I got his number doing a URL lookup.

BTW, welcome to the forums.

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post #72 of 228 Old 01-21-2010, 06:29 PM
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Talked to Eagle Aspen today, and the first shipment came in yesterday. Ordered mine from Solidsignal today, and it's supposed to ship in 6-9 days. Looking forward to trying it out.

If a man speaks in the forest, and there's no woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
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post #73 of 228 Old 04-15-2010, 07:15 AM
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Finally got the Rotor installed this week, and initial impression is positive. Weight is a bit lighter than the CM that it is replacing, but since the CM is probably close to 40 years old, that's not really a fair comparison. Torque seemed decent in ground testing
I have it set up with 2 Televes 75's in a vertical stack. I'll see how it handles that once we get some wind. I did remove my VHF head to reduce wind load, not a big issue as I didn't even have it hooked up.
I just need to get it incorporated into my Harmony remote to finish everything off. The Eagle Aspen isn't listed in the Logitech database, but apparently the PBI ROTR-R100 is the same, and thus should work

If a man speaks in the forest, and there's no woman around to hear him, is he still wrong?
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post #74 of 228 Old 04-15-2010, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Your the 1st to report the new versions. With a stacked array I would strongly suggest a thrust bearing to take the strain off the rotor and mast above the rotor.
I would be nice if someone would take closeups on the internal of the rotor to see if anything obvious changed.

When you turn the antenna, does the display still 'blink' after the display stops 'counting' while the antenna catches up? That was one 'Con' of this.

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post #75 of 228 Old 04-15-2010, 01:17 PM
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Sorry, should have mentioned that there is a thrust bearing. It was there from when the Televes were install 5 or 6 years ago. A definite must with multiple heads.
The blinking is there. I'm not familiar with the behaviour before, so I'll just describe mine. If I hold one of the rotation buttons down to turn the rotor, the display will blink twice while the rotor catches up. If I punch in an azimuth, then the display will blink 3 or 4 times while the rotor catches up. Generally it won't bother me as I only have about 3 different bearings for the signals. I can see it being annoying though if you're hunting for a very narrow signal.

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post #76 of 228 Old 04-16-2010, 04:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:


I can see it being annoying though if you're hunting for a very narrow signal.

I posted this in my review and brought it to the attention of the importer, but apparently nothing was done about it. The "flashing' as you mentioned is the rotor catching up with the display. Not a big deal unless you are 'tweaking'.

Constant 'tweaking' for the best signal (rocking it back and forth) along with constant turning the antenna will eventually throw off the synchronization to a point the unit has to go through the re-calibration procedure in spite of the electronic position feedback. No where near as much or anywhere near as bad as a conventional non-feedback rotor though.

But, I still feel it's the best bang for the buck. The cost is only $20 more than the run of the mill rotor setup.

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post #77 of 228 Old 06-28-2010, 08:47 AM
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Quick question on the ROTR100

Can I just run a separate RG6 line from the control unit to the rotor?
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post #78 of 228 Old 06-28-2010, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by New Englander View Post

Quick question on the ROTR100

Can I just run a separate RG6 line from the control unit to the rotor?

Absolutely!

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post #79 of 228 Old 06-28-2010, 10:56 AM - Thread Starter
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The way it was intended? Yes but why? (other than there is no splicing)? Costs more and 2 conductor wire is easier to work with.

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post #80 of 228 Old 07-02-2010, 05:54 AM
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I am a novice when it comes to Rotors.

Is it possible to avoid using the one coax cable for everything which leads to the 3 to 4 db signal loss by using a separate coax to run the power of this unit?

Currently I have a CM 7777 pre amp and I would still like to be able to use it because it has much higher gain than the pre amp that this company specifies for use with this Rotor. Is there a way to get around this problem?
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post #81 of 228 Old 07-02-2010, 06:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Did you read my review and my 'mod' of the power feed (in the 2nd post)?

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post #82 of 228 Old 07-03-2010, 06:26 PM
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Went back and found it. Looks like this model is not a heavy duty rotor. Will look at something else.
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post #83 of 228 Old 07-04-2010, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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For $70 what did you expect. It's for TV antennas. What pray tell are you planning to mount and what does it not being "heavy duty" have to do with your question about the power feed??

The least expensive 'amateur' rotors with position feedback are these (AFAIK, I haven't really looked recently);
http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=2427
http://www.rotor-doc.com/sales.html

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post #84 of 228 Old 07-04-2010, 06:56 AM
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Whatever happened to the standard that was going to allow for Smart Antennas?
That technology would have made it possible for the TV or STB to drive the rotor (or, even a multi-switch system) directly, without using any extra controls. The set would just learn where to point the antenna, and what switch positions were needed.

Also, has anyone tried the control unit for this with a heavy duty STAB rotor (made for satellite dishes)? I wonder if the DiSEqC codes are identical.

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post #85 of 228 Old 07-04-2010, 07:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Interesting idea that I never thought about. It just happens I have a Stab.

My questions would be;
1. Why? Since the Sat rotors are designed for an 'arc', where/how would/could it work for OTA?
2. If it did move the rotor, the feedback would be different. How about possibility of damage to the control box?

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post #86 of 228 Old 07-04-2010, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

For $70 what did you expect. It's for TV antennas. What pray tell are you planning to mount and what does it not being "heavy duty" have to do with your question about the power feed??

The least expensive 'amateur' rotors with position feedback are these (AFAIK, I haven't really looked recently);
http://www.dxzone.com/cgi-bin/dir/jump2.cgi?ID=2427
http://www.rotor-doc.com/sales.html

You are right that issue of it not being a heavy duty rotor is not entirely congruent with the question. Big deal. However, I have to know if it can handle two or more bigger TV antennas. I found this information AFTER I posed this question. Aside from that it looks like a good rotor for the money. But I doubt it will be able to handle the load that I have in mind and I don't desire to alter in the manner mentioned. I can find a new or used model from some other brand like Hy Gain or an older Channel Master that will handle deep fringe antennas.

Why are you throwing a snit over my post?
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post #87 of 228 Old 07-04-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by kenglish View Post

Whatever happened to the standard that was going to allow for Smart Antennas?

Dead.

No TV manufacturers would include it in new TV sets and the CECB boxes (dead end products) were miserably non-compliant with the CEA standard. Consequently, the NAB-funded Smart Antenna that Antennas Direct developed will probably never come to market unless they do something proprietary with it.
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post #88 of 228 Old 09-22-2010, 01:00 PM
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I see an excellent suggestion from 'videobruce' to construct and run a seperate power cable for the Eagle Aspen ROTR100. I understand how to construct this, but how do you plug both cable is, when there is but one input terminal? Thanks.
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post #89 of 228 Old 09-22-2010, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by NHlakedweller View Post

I see an excellent suggestion from 'videobruce' to construct and run a seperate power cable for the Eagle Aspen ROTR100. I understand how to construct this, but how do you plug both cable is, when there is but one input terminal? Thanks.

Just run one cable to the rotor from the control box and the second cable for signals from the antenna to the TV. Separate cables....
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post #90 of 228 Old 09-22-2010, 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ProjectSHO89 View Post

Just run one cable to the rotor from the control box and the second cable for signals from the antenna to the TV. Separate cables....

Oh, I see. I am no longer going to run the short antenna wire from the antenna to the rotor. That makes sense now, thank you.
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