I found a fix for the Zoltrix cards I have sold. I am sharing it publicly, as there are too many cards out there that I have sold to effectively have them sent to me. In my opinion that would be rude..and without merit to keep it to myself.
So, here it is:
The ADAC (analog-to-digital converter) for the chroma input on the chip (878 chips) has a GROUND REFERENCE... RIGHT BESIDE the C-IN (which is the analog-to-digital chroma converter) This ground reference is VERY IMPORTANT. It is what decides the noise floor characteristic..and is sensitive to ground noise.
What is right beside it..that can create a constant, controlled noise characteristic?
The I2C clock chip.
(in the Zoltrix, it is the 8 pin IC that is stamped "CSI") It is a small surface mount job on the cyberlink cards, for those that are experiencing problems with that card.
The ground plane for the AGND pin (pin 109 I believe) is SLIGHTLY elevated in ground potential, compared to the surrounding area. The clock generated off of the I2C chip INFECTS the ground plane of the AGND for the chroma input (CIN). The composite inputs are slightly further away, and are less infected.
So, what you have to do, is to scrape off the edges of the ground plane areas, and apply some solder to join them back together again...BOOM!! Noise is gone!!
I did it in multiple spots on the back side of the board...what it is on the back of the ZOLTRIX GENIE TV cards, is that small area that looks vaguely like the state of Texas. That 'area' must be soldered back to connectivity with the main ground plane body. Then, the front side must be done as well, right next to r5,c36,c38,and c37. This area must be joined back up to (soldered back together with) the area beside c13. Then you are done. It takes a few minutes with a razor or small jeweler's screwdriver to scrape the green coating off of the board copper, then, solder with about a 35 watt soldering gun. Wire won't do. The soldering must be a mass doing, like I have proposed. The difference in ground potential that is causing this problem is probably less than 0.1 ohms. So, a wire soldered across something is probably not going to do it. Do both sides,and the bars will be GONE!
I will publish photo's of the procedure as soon as possible.