MyHD MDP-130 - Page 401 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 13Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #12001 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 10:12 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
My primary experience with using MyHD for timeshifting was on the (now ancient) ASUS P4P800 Deluxe mobo. I'm still using MyHD, but less extensively for t.s., on Foxconn 6150BK8MC and two Gigabyte mobos, E7AUM-DS2H and MA785G-UD3H.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12002 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 02:46 PM
Advanced Member
 
Vlad Theimpaler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

My primary experience with using MyHD for timeshifting was on the (now ancient) ASUS P4P800 Deluxe mobo. I'm still using MyHD, but less extensively for t.s., on Foxconn 6150BK8MC and two Gigabyte mobos, E7AUM-DS2H and MA785G-UD3H.

Wow, my current HTPC (primarily for PVR duties) is also a P4P800 (non-Deluxe). I bought it back in 2004, and it still runs great, as does the MDP-130.

I recently added a powerline adapter kit to my home to get internet access into the living room where the HTPC resides. I then experimented with streaming 720p and 1080i HD .ts recordings over the network using MyHD for playback. It didn't work, but then I read in the MDP-130 FAQ that network playback does not work on multi-core/hyperthreading/multi-CPU systems. So I entered the P4P800's BIOS and disabled hyperthreading - problem solved. I can now stream HD recordings with the MDP-130, which has no lip-sync issues with network playback either, BTW

Another thing I like about the MDP-130 is its ability to display Closed Captions and output them over DVI with the daughtercard. Why can't other players offer a Closed Caption display option?

It'll be a sad day when I have to put the trusty old P4P800 out to pasture. But when I do, I'm definitely bringing MyHD into the replacement build

Vlad Theimpaler is offline  
post #12003 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 03:32 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
The trouble with those old Intel socket 478 chips is that they are way too power hungry. You can build an HTPC today with better performance and half the power draw or less.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #12004 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 04:11 PM
Advanced Member
 
Vlad Theimpaler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

The trouble with those old Intel socket 478 chips is that they are way too power hungry. You can build an HTPC today with better performance and half the power draw or less.

When I first used the P4P800 in a desktop build, I deliberately chose a P4 processor with the Northwood core because of its lower power dissipation relative to the newer Prescott core (both 478 chips were available back in 2004, though the Northwoods eventually were replaced by the Prescotts). If I remember correctly, Prescotts had twice the L2 cache of Northwoods (1MB versus 512KB) and were fabbed with the smaller 90nm CMOS process (versus Northwood's 130um process).

Prescotts are what folks remember in terms of the power-hungry Intel socket 478 CPU... I remember that they were known in the industry as "Press-hots" because of the immense amount of heat they produced.

But you are definitely right, I can get much better power-efficiency and performance today. But rebuilding is such a hassle (for me), and we're still in the middle of the TV season so I can't take the HTPC offline just yet

Vlad Theimpaler is offline  
post #12005 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 04:47 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Yes, the Prescott was a further step in the wrong power-efficiency direction, but Intel was already out in the weeds with the Northwood, which is what I specified for my HTPC build too for the same reason as you.

All of the more recent CPUs beat the pants off of those generations w.r.t. power per instruction.

I hear the "if it ain't broke..." though.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
post #12006 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 05:48 PM
Advanced Member
 
Vlad Theimpaler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post
I hear the "if it ain't broke..." though.
And to bring this back to MyHD... upgrading to a newer system means moving away from single core, so no more network streaming, or playback of DVD discs using MyHD (unless I can disable a multi-core CPU down to one core).

This is when I just start being able to enjoy network streaming through MyHD, after almost 5 years of using the MDP-130.

But yes, nothin' ain't broke today... but some MyHD features will be, when I eventually have to upgrade the system. Oh well

Vlad Theimpaler is offline  
post #12007 of 13024 Old 03-16-2011, 07:35 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
AFAIK, you can pull the same trick in all Windows versions of booting with the parameter that disables all but one CPU. That means that you can still play LAN and DVD files with newer hw. The only hard stop that I'm aware of is that you absolutely cannot run MyHD on a 64-bit OS (even under XP emulation).

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
post #12008 of 13024 Old 03-18-2011, 02:41 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Wendell R. Breland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 5,016
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked: 261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad Theimpaler View Post
When I first used the P4P800 in a desktop build
Still using three ASUS P4800-E Deluxe motherboard computers, two with MDP-120s and one with an MDP-130. These motherboards still bring a premium on eBay. Hard to find a late model motherboard with all the ports the old P4800s have. I dread the day one of them quits and I can not get a replacement.
Wendell R. Breland is online now  
post #12009 of 13024 Old 03-31-2011, 02:41 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I'm using a DVI daughterboard with MyHD. I know some of you folks have been using DVI switches so you can use either your computer's display or a home theater display. When I got my Sanyo PLV-Z2 projector some years ago I looked into this and the switches were around $100, so I opted to just change the cabling by hand when I wanted to change from one display to the other. In order to do this I got a DVI extension cable (one end male the other female). This worked out OK but the last month or two for some reason my projector never sees the computer unless I jiggle the connection and it's gotten pretty ridiculous to get it to work. The same cable when plugged into my DVD player sees the player fine. Also my computer's 19" LCD has no problem when plugged into the extension cable from the daughterboard. Another funny thing is that when the projector finally sees the signal from the computer for a few seconds, it doesn't drop it (well lately, it does occasionally). Anyway, I've decided I have no alternative now other than to buy a DVI switch. There doesn't seem to be a lot around but Monoprice has one, a powered switch that has LEDs and a wall wart for around $40 shipped and taxed. There's one on eBay that's unpowered from Korea that's about $34 shipped. I figure if the unpowered one works fine and continues to work (I'd be using the switch virtually daily, I think), then it would be better (no wall wart sucking power), but otherwise, maybe the Monoprice one is better. What do you guys think? These are DVI-DVI switches:

Monoprice powered switch:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Unpowered switch on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/DVI-2-1-Manual-S...item414ee0dc33
Muse is offline  
post #12010 of 13024 Old 03-31-2011, 03:51 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
DPlettner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Another option is to get the Monoprice mechanical HDMI switch for $15.70:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

Then get a couple of HDMI-to-DVI cables, which are quite cheap:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...02&cp_id=10231

I have been using a DVI daughterboard with a powered Monoprice HDMI switch for years, and it works great.

-Dave
DPlettner is offline  
post #12011 of 13024 Old 03-31-2011, 07:20 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Thanks!

What are the advantages of a powered video switch over a mechanical one? Is a powered switch going to be more reliable in the long run?

It might make sense to get an HDMI switch instead of a DVI-DVI. I already have at least one HDMI to DVI cable I bought because I figured that it/they would come in handy one day. An HDMI switch would be a better investment going forward, assuming I get some HDMI supporting equipment, not exactly improbable. Besides, I highly suspect there's a problem with my 15' DVI-DVI cable, or else it's the extension cable (or both?). Anyway, some more cables tacked onto the order seem a smart idea. This problem is quite vexing, and it's getting worse by the day.
Muse is offline  
post #12012 of 13024 Old 03-31-2011, 08:01 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

Thanks!

What are the advantages of a powered video switch over a mechanical one? Is a powered switch going to be more reliable in the long run?

It might make sense to get an HDMI switch instead of a DVI-DVI. I already have at least one HDMI to DVI cable I bought because I figured that it/they would come in handy one day. An HDMI switch would be a better investment going forward, assuming I get some HDMI supporting equipment, not exactly improbable. Besides, I highly suspect there's a problem with my 15' DVI-DVI cable, or else it's the extension cable (or both?). Anyway, some more cables tacked onto the order seem a smart idea. This problem is quite vexing, and it's getting worse by the day.

Muse, I use the same sort of switch as Dave. I just unplug or use a switched plug strip to keep it from drawing power all the time. One advantage of the powered ones is that they can be controlled via a Harmony remote.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
post #12013 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 05:32 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

Muse, I use the same sort of switch as Dave. I just unplug or use a switched plug strip to keep it from drawing power all the time. One advantage of the powered ones is that they can be controlled via a Harmony remote.

Ah, I saw no mention of remote control. If it would work with a Harmony I have to think it would work with my Mx-700.

I use switched plug strips a lot too. Nowadays I think they have energy efficient wall warts, at least my experiments with my Kill-a-Watt seem to indicate that some of my more recent wall warts have almost no draw when the device is unused, in particular my WD Elements 2TB external HD. Of course I have no idea what would ship with a Monoprice HDMI powered switch.

Edit: Looking, I'm not seeing a powered 2x1 HDMI switch at Monoprice! Can you guys link me?

This Monoprice switch (with remote) is a powered 3x1 HDMI:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

They explain that you can use it for several sources to a single display. Can you use it the opposite way, a single source to multiple displays?
Muse is offline  
post #12014 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 06:52 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Wendell R. Breland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 5,016
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 503 Post(s)
Liked: 261
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

Can you use it the opposite way, a single source to multiple displays?

No.

Do you need to switch audio as well?

Because I have several HDMI/DVI S/PDIF sources (MDP-130, Blu-ray, D-VHS, Diamond 9000HD, HTPC, etc.) a Zektor 5 x 1 switcher (now discontinued) was purchased from DC. It switches HDMI/DVI S/PDIF sources and can split the sources. It has a remote control (IR or hardwired or RS-232). This makes it real convenient to select 1 of 5 sources, both audio & video. Unfortunately, Zektor no longer makes these devices.
Wendell R. Breland is online now  
post #12015 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 07:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wendell R. Breland View Post


No.

So what do people use to send a single source to (one at a time) 2 displays?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wendell R. Breland View Post

Do you need to switch audio as well?

ATM, I don't need to switch audio.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wendell R. Breland View Post

Because I have several HDMI/DVI S/PDIF sources (MDP-130, Blu-ray, D-VHS, Diamond 9000HD, HTPC, etc.) a Zektor 5 x 1 switcher (now discontinued) was purchased from DC. It switches HDMI/DVI S/PDIF sources and can split the sources. It has a remote control (IR or hardwired or RS-232). This makes it real convenient to select 1 of 5 sources, both audio & video. Unfortunately, Zektor no longer makes these devices.


Reading user feedback at Monoprice's site for the 3x1 powered switch I linked above, one guy said he liked it but was happier with Product ID 5312 for $57:

4X2 True Matrix HDMI 1.3a Powered Switch w/ Remote (Rev. 3.0)

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

It's more than I need now (assuming the mechanical 2x1 works for 1 source and 2 displays), but who knows, going forward it might prove the best choice. The mechanical switch doesn't support 1080p, for one thing. I don't have any 1080p sources ATM, but someday I imagine I will.

Or, there's this one for $38:

4x2 Matrix HDMI Powered Mini Switch w/ Remote

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Muse is offline  
post #12016 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 07:27 AM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
I believe Wendell is right. Both Dave (AFAIK) and I are switching sources rather than sinks...sorry for the confusion.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
post #12017 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 08:01 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
One of the feedbacks at Monoprice for the 2x1 mechanical switch (linked above) says it can be used as a 1x2, but you have to mod the unit:

"Works as intended, and can very easily be changed to a 1X2 switch. As a bunch of people said, you just open it up and short out the 2 diodes. I have no idea how to do anything complicated with electronics, but trust me, it's really obvious what that means once you open it. I used pieces of twist tie, it took 2 minutes and now I can use my computer on my TV or my monitor with the push of a button."

Another guy said reverse the diodes, so I don't know which is right:

"I bought it to convert it to a 1x2, it was very simple and works perfectly (pop the diodes off, flip them around, took about 5 minutes with the soldering iron and a steady hand). I have the output of my computer going to a 24" LCD and a 46" HDTV. One press of the button and it seamlessly switches over. No visible signal degradation or frames dropping over a 6' run from the computer to switch and a 50' run from the switch to TV. Both are using 22AWG HDMI cables from Monorpice. 24" LCD also looks flawless over 2 6' runs."
Muse is offline  
post #12018 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 08:26 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
DPlettner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

Can you use it the opposite way, a single source to multiple displays?

Just seconding what Terry said, the Monoprice switches work great with Harmony remotes, so everything is pretty seamless when switching between activities. Also, given the pricing at Monoprice, I would just get a 4-port switch to have ports available for devices you get in the future.

To go from one output to multiple displays, you need a splitter, and Monoprice as those too:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...01&cp_id=10113

A friend tried a passive splitter and did not have good luck. I recommend an active splitter. I have one and it works fine. Of course, you get another power adapter, but energy usage can be reduced with a smart strip.

-Dave
DPlettner is offline  
post #12019 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 08:45 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by DPlettner View Post

Just seconding what Terry said, the Monoprice switches work great with Harmony remotes, so everything is pretty seamless when switching between activities. Also, given the pricing at Monoprice, I would just get a 4-port switch to have ports available for devices you get in the future.

To go from one output to multiple displays, you need a splitter, and Monoprice as those too:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/su...01&cp_id=10113

A friend tried a passive splitter and did not have good luck. I recommend an active splitter. I have one and it works fine. Of course, you get another power adapter, but energy usage can be reduced with a smart strip.

-Dave

I'd never heard of Smart Strips before (just hit one at Amazon).

Well, if I'm going to get splitter and 4 device switch why not get a combo, i.e. one of the matrix devices linked above? Then I don't need a splitter.

Anyway, the easy and cheap solution (not versatile going forward, though), is to get the 2x1 switch and do the modification. Feedback at Monoprice has easily a dozen people doing the mod, some reversing the two diodes, others shorting them out. It appears that it doesn't matter which mod you do. If you reverse the diodes, you still can't use it as a switch, just as a splitter, near as I can tell, and AFAIK it will work just as well as a splitter if you just short out the diodes. Seems like people are confused on that issue, but that's what I glean reading the feedbacks mentioning the diodes. That 2x1 mechanical switch is just $15.70 and noone reports handshake issues, which aren't uncommon with powered devices.

I suppose I could always get a switch later and use it in conjunction with the moded 2x1 switch (moded into a splitter).
Muse is offline  
post #12020 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 10:19 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
DPlettner's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Cupertino, CA
Posts: 2,761
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 10
SmartStrips are pretty cool. I have a TV and HTPC plugged into the trigger outlet (using an outlet splitter), and then I have a bunch of stuff plugged into the SmartStrip, such as a network switch, an HD Homerun, and HDMI switch, etc.

SmartStrips are not cheap, so it makes sense to figure out whether the power savings are worth the money. In my case, I broke even after about two years, but I can't really recommend spending $30+ to save 5 watts.

-Dave
DPlettner is offline  
post #12021 of 13024 Old 04-01-2011, 10:57 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Yeah, for me I figure a watt/year translates to about 1 dollar. Years ago I bought a VHS cassette rewinder, hoping to save my SVHS decks (they cost me $1000 and $650). The rewinder was around $100 maybe a bit more. I just about never used it, but after several years I realized that its wall wart had consumed over $100 worth of electricity! From that point forward I started trying my best to avoid that sort of thing. I have no choice with my phone/answering system, those things need 24/7 power, but something that's only used occasionally, I try to not let it use juice. I'll have to look into smart strips though for my computer stuff.
Muse is offline  
post #12022 of 13024 Old 04-08-2011, 11:49 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I got the $15.70 manual HDMI-DVI adapter and a few likewise cables and made the modification (reversing the two diodes) converting the 2x1 switch to a 1x2 splitter. Works fine. Wish I'd known about this a month ago. Man, the trouble that would have saved me! Thanks, Dave!
Muse is offline  
post #12023 of 13024 Old 04-08-2011, 12:34 PM
Senior Member
 
Herman Trivilino's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 295
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

I just about never used it, but after several years I realized that its wall wart had consumed over $100 worth of electricity!

When you did that calculation did you, by any chance, use the numbers printed on the wall wart itself? Such as the current or power? If so, those are maxima, and not the actual amount. You can purchase devices, such as the "Watts Up" that measure the number of kilowatt-hours actually used.

I've often thought of installing a low-voltage DC system in my house so I could remove all wall warts. If anyone markets this idea and gets rich doing it, I hereby claim full credit for its invention. The heart of the system would be a car battery. You could even connect it to a solar cell and use it to charge the battery, but rely on the grid when the sun's not shining.
Herman Trivilino is offline  
post #12024 of 13024 Old 04-08-2011, 01:06 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by Herman Trivilino View Post

When you did that calculation did you, by any chance, use the numbers printed on the wall wart itself? Such as the current or power? If so, those are maxima, and not the actual amount. You can purchase devices, such as the "Watts Up" that measure the number of kilowatt-hours actually used.

I don't remember, but think I probably did use the figures on the wall wart itself. It says 10 Watts. Plugging it into my Kill-a-Watt (which I think may be wildly inaccurate for low draw devices) it says 1 watt being used while the device is idle. That would be way less than I thought. I may have used a multimeter to try to ascertain the power used, but that may have been very inaccurate. The Kill-a-Watt may be better.

Edit: I'm actually using the device to rewind an SVHS tape, the first time the rewinder has been used in probably over 20 years and the Kill-a-Watt says it's using 3 watts.
Muse is offline  
post #12025 of 13024 Old 04-24-2011, 11:05 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I had the thought to change the MyHD Buffer directory to one on a network share, a USB external 2TB Western Digital Elements attached to my server machine which is connected by CAT5 to my wireless router. My HTPC machine (with MyHD 120/daughter card in it) is also connected by CAT5 to the router. I figured the throughput might be adequate but MyHD refused saying that network drives are not supported. Is it possible to work around this other than by limiting myself to internal or USB connected storage?
Muse is offline  
post #12026 of 13024 Old 04-24-2011, 02:15 PM
AVS Forum Addicted Member
 
TPeterson's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2002
Location: San Carlos, CA
Posts: 12,152
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 356 Post(s)
Liked: 40
Did you try defining the LAN HDD as a drive letter via the SUBST command? I don't recommend this approach, but it might work.

HDHomerun users: Please check out our free Cliff Watson EPG PVR software to schedule your recordings.
TPeterson is offline  
post #12027 of 13024 Old 04-24-2011, 08:07 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by TPeterson View Post

Did you try defining the LAN HDD as a drive letter via the SUBST command? I don't recommend this approach, but it might work.

How would you do that? Is it a DOS command? The drive is mapped to a drive letter (W. I just want to try it out and see if it works, it's no biggie, but that HD has 1.5TB free, tons of space. Currently, I have only 130GB free on the internal IDE I'm using. It works OK for timeshifting, but leaves not a lot of room for accumulating stuff.

Edit: I'd maybe put this in config.sys of one of the machines:

subst z: w:\\MyHD Buffer

Put that on my HTPC? Or would it be the server machine?
Muse is offline  
post #12028 of 13024 Old 04-24-2011, 09:07 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
SFischer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA 94087
Posts: 3,911
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 989 Post(s)
Liked: 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

How would you do that? Is it a DOS command? The drive is mapped to a drive letter (W. I just want to try it out and see if it works, it's no biggie,
...

Hi,

On Vista Windows Explorer it's "Tools/Map Network Drive".

But you may have to use only one of your CPUs.

This says no playback of network files over a network with more than one CPU:

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...92#post7176592

Quote:
MyHD refused saying that network drives are not supported. Is it possible to work around this other than by limiting myself to internal or USB connected storage?

The software may be checking for the number of CPUs.

Using only one CPU is a bad choice IMHO. Replacing an internal drive with a bigger one or an additional one are better choices.

SHF
SFischer1 is offline  
post #12029 of 13024 Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Muse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Under the rainbow over Berkeley
Posts: 2,027
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 17
Do you mean the machines can't be multicore or I can't have multiple machines on the network? I have 4 machines, never all on at once, however. The CPU on the server machine is a Dual Core (not Core Duo) Intel 1.8GHz, so I guess it is multiprocessor. The HTPC is single core.

Quote:
Using only one CPU is a bad choice IMHO. Replacing an internal drive with a bigger one or an additional one are better choices.

I think you're right.
Muse is offline  
post #12030 of 13024 Old 04-25-2011, 01:02 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
SFischer1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Sunnyvale, CA 94087
Posts: 3,911
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 989 Post(s)
Liked: 122
Quote:
Originally Posted by Muse View Post

Do you mean the machines can't be multicore

They can be multicore but you must turn off all but one CPU.

Hyper threading looks like multiple CPUs.

So, you have to turn off what looks like another CPU in your single core HTPC.

On my W7 HTPC system task manager "Performance" tab shows four windows.

If I wanted to play back captures from my NAS with MyHD I would have to turn off CPUs until only one window was left. While it has not been said AFAIK personally, the one CPU limitation is also for writing to a network device.

Quote:


The CPU on the server machine is a Dual Core (not Core Duo) Intel 1.8GHz, so I guess it is multiprocessor.

Quote:


The HTPC is single core.

The machine that the MyHD is installed in is the one that must be reduced to one CPU and Hyper threading turned off.

The others can be as powerful as you wish, but if you transfered the MyHD card to another PC that one would become the one with one CPU limitation and you could unlock the former.

SHF
SFischer1 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply Home Theater Computers

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off