Belkin AP30800-10 just shuts itself off? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 54 Old 01-14-2015, 10:47 AM
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Is there an easy way to replace the batteries, or do I need to take the whole unit out of the cabinet and take the cover off? (A belkin unit that I have, just required me to take the front cover off).

Thanks for any hints
-S
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post #32 of 54 Old 01-14-2015, 01:36 PM
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nothing to it

"Is there an easy way to replace the batteries, or do I need to take the whole unit out of the cabinet and take the cover off? (A belkin unit that I have, just required me to take the front cover off)."

It's easy, but it does require taking the cover off. After that's done, nothing to it.

Looking back over the posts, I see I replaced the batteries over two years ago. How time flies, seems like just yesterday.
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post #33 of 54 Old 05-28-2015, 10:42 AM
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I need to replace the batteries in my unit (charge is never higher than one green bar and I have had the unit and original batteries for for at least 6 years), but can't seem to find any instructions for how to go about this.

Do I remove the front face plate by removing the screws on the sides of the unit or are those only for the rack mount ears? I can't see the back of the unit in it's cabinet so there may be some really obvious panel back there to remove, I just can't see it right now.

What is the process to remove the old batteries and install new ones?

-Thanks
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post #34 of 54 Old 05-28-2015, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stogie1020 View Post
I need to replace the batteries in my unit (charge is never higher than one green bar and I have had the unit and original batteries for for at least 6 years), but can't seem to find any instructions for how to go about this.

Do I remove the front face plate by removing the screws on the sides of the unit or are those only for the rack mount ears? I can't see the back of the unit in it's cabinet, so there may be some really obvious panel back there to remove, I just can't see it right now.

What is the process to remove the old batteries and install new ones?
I suggest you re-read the entire thread.

You don't need to remove the side screws, just take the whole unit out of your cabinet and undo the one(s) covering the battery area. The 2 batteries are held together by a cable, it should be pretty obvious what's going on once you get those two suckers out of there.

Just to update the thread as the OP, my Arizona Battery replacements from 2011 are still going strong, 4 years later!
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post #35 of 54 Old 05-28-2015, 11:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Nrrrd View Post
I suggest you re-read the entire thread.

You don't need to remove the side screws, just take the whole unit out of your cabinet and undo the one(s) covering the battery area. The 2 batteries are held together by a cable, it should be pretty obvious what's going on once you get those two suckers out of there.

Just to update the thread as the OP, my Arizona Battery replacements from 2011 are still going strong, 4 years later!
Thank you sir, I did read the thread but was not able to discern on which panel the access for the battery was located. I will assume it's on the rear panel.

Thanks, and good to know the AZBatteries are still running. They are local for me so maybe I will see if they do will-call pickup.
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post #36 of 54 Old 02-02-2016, 01:42 PM
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It is not necessary toremove any of the external small screws on the outside of the case to accessthe battery compartment. Just pulloutward on the front face bezel and it will pop off. Then remove two screws on the right front of the unit and removethe two batteries. Replace the twofailed batteries with two good batteries exactly as the old batteries werewired.

I bought my AP30800-10 unitin May, 2006 and replaced the original Ritar batteries in June, 2009 (lasted 3years) with CSB GP1272F2 12V 7.2 Ah batteries. The CSB batteries just failed in January, 2016 after 6 1/2 years and Ireplaced them again with new CSB batteries (from batteriesasap.com). I'm good to go again for another 6 to 7years.
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post #37 of 54 Old 02-02-2016, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brycov View Post
It is not necessary toremove any of the external small screws on the outside of the case to accessthe battery compartment. Just pulloutward on the front face bezel and it will pop off. Then remove two screws on the right front of the unit and removethe two batteries. Replace the twofailed batteries with two good batteries exactly as the old batteries werewired.

I bought my AP30800-10 unitin May, 2006 and replaced the original Ritar batteries in June, 2009 (lasted 3years) with CSB GP1272F2 12V 7.2 Ah batteries. The CSB batteries just failed in January, 2016 after 6 1/2 years and Ireplaced them again with new CSB batteries (from batteriesasap.com). I'm good to go again for another 6 to 7years.
Wow, thanks for the reply!

In truth, I looked at the device a few days later and the battery indicator seemed to be just where it was supposed to be again... I have had this unit (bought at a Fry's Electronics) since ?2006 or 2007? and other than the hiccup last year where the battery was reading wrong, it has been a champ!

Thanks again for the info, if I ever need it, now I know.
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post #38 of 54 Old 08-02-2016, 07:54 PM
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I replaced the batteries, but every since, there is a low hum that is constant. Also more troublesome than that, is that the system occasionally just shuts off and the only way it works is if i unplug it and then plug it into a different socket. The good news is the outlet has 2 sockets and I just alternate, but its quite annoying if it shuts off while i am away and miss recordings. This thing is way old, but has been working like a champ for a while. It'd be a shame to have to toss it.

The main issue for me to follow the steps above is that the power button is broken and doesnt work. There is no springiness to the button, its just flat and cant be pressed. Any suggestions?
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post #39 of 54 Old 08-29-2016, 07:55 AM
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My Belkin PureAV 30800 died, would not power on. Seeing no physical damage inside, I thought it worth taking a chance on a pair of new batteries. No change.

Which led me to wonder if I'd connected them right. Foolishly, I'd taken no photos or made any diagrams before taking the old batteries out. It was a week or two later when the new batteries came in, leaving me unsure of their connections.

I've connected the batteries in parallel (at least I hope I have). What would really help is if someone could say, "The short white wire goes between the (?) terminal on one battery and the (?) terminal on the other...and the long black wire from the system board goes to the (?) terminal on the battery." Or words to that effect.

There's nothing in the user's guide. Belkin's Customer Support is unable or unwilling to help.

Hope you can.

Many thanks.

-- Steve
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post #40 of 54 Old 08-29-2016, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usarmycwo View Post
My Belkin PureAV 30800 died, would not power on. Seeing no physical damage inside, I thought it worth taking a chance on a pair of new batteries. No change.

Which led me to wonder if I'd connected them right. Foolishly, I'd taken no photos or made any diagrams before taking the old batteries out. It was a week or two later when the new batteries came in, leaving me unsure of their connections.

I've connected the batteries in parallel (at least I hope I have). What would really help is if someone could say, "The short white wire goes between the (?) terminal on one battery and the (?) terminal on the other...and the long black wire from the system board goes to the (?) terminal on the battery." Or words to that effect.

There's nothing in the user's guide. Belkin's Customer Support is unable or unwilling to help.

Hope you can.

Many thanks.

-- Steve
Let me ask it another way?

Is the short white wire connected between the two negative terminals of the batteries?

Or does it go between the two positive terminals?

Or between a negative and a positive terminal?

That's really all I need to know.

(I'm convinced it's between the two negative terminals, but that's not making the unit come to life. And afraid if I try another way, I'll see sparks and ruin a piece of equipment that might still be fixable.)

Thanks.
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post #41 of 54 Old 09-27-2016, 06:59 AM
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Batteries connected in series, not parallel

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Originally Posted by usarmycwo View Post
Let me ask it another way?

Is the short white wire connected between the two negative terminals of the batteries?

Or does it go between the two positive terminals?

Or between a negative and a positive terminal?

That's really all I need to know.

(I'm convinced it's between the two negative terminals, but that's not making the unit come to life. And afraid if I try another way, I'll see sparks and ruin a piece of equipment that might still be fixable.)

Thanks.
In case anyone cares, the answer is that the short white wire goes between a positive terminal on one battery and a negative terminal on the other.

That surprised me, as it means the batteries are connected in series, not parallel. I'd expected in parallel in order to provide more current, but connecting in parallel simply didn't let the unit turn on, while connecting the batteries in series did.

By the way, yes, new batteries fixed the problem of not turning on.
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Last edited by usarmycwo; 09-27-2016 at 07:01 AM. Reason: I needlessly pasted some of the original post.
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post #42 of 54 Old 01-21-2017, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usarmycwo View Post
In case anyone cares, the answer is that the short white wire goes between a positive terminal on one battery and a negative terminal on the other.

That surprised me, as it means the batteries are connected in series, not parallel. I'd expected in parallel in order to provide more current, but connecting in parallel simply didn't let the unit turn on, while connecting the batteries in series did.

By the way, yes, new batteries fixed the problem of not turning on.
Thanks for posting this. I am just about the walk down this path.
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post #43 of 54 Old 01-22-2017, 07:53 AM
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Nathan, am glad it helped.

I'm now on my second set of replacement batteries. Maybe third set, but my memory isn't reliable, and I can remember only two times opening the case.

Which is to say the unit is bulletproof and could last decades with periodic battery replacements.

One thing that might not be obvious is that the unit doesn't have to come out in order to replace the batteries. Instead, just pop off the front panel, giving access to pull the batteries out. Huge time saver that I didn't discover until this last battery swap.

-- Steve
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post #44 of 54 Old 02-18-2017, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm (still) the OP, almost 6 years later, my 2nd set of batteries is finally biting the dust! Time to see if Arizona Batteries is still in business ...

Of course, they *would* have to go right at the start of DirecTV's Presidents Day free preview weekend of ALL their Premium movie channels ...
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post #45 of 54 Old 02-18-2017, 06:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riot Nrrrd View Post
I'm (still) the OP, almost 6 years later, my 2nd set of batteries is finally biting the dust! Time to see if Arizona Batteries is still in business ...

Of course, they *would* have to go right at the start of DirecTV's Presidents Day free preview weekend of ALL their Premium movie channels ...
P.S. In case anyone's still reading, have any of you given up on the Belkin (due to lack of support or anything else) and investigated any more recent models like the APC J35B? Gotta be better support for an APC product I would think
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post #46 of 54 Old 02-18-2017, 03:22 PM
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Arizona batteries is still going strong. Just got a battery replacement for this unit, last month. They sold me a higher capacity battery that at first I thought didn't fit. Their customer support explained how to remove the foam "padding" inside the unit, so the larger battery would fit. It fit like a glove and now my run time is nearly doubled.
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post #47 of 54 Old 05-31-2017, 11:18 PM
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Nice!

Was it their "Belkin BN1250 Replacement Batteries - 12V 9Ah set of 2" or another model?

Last edited by Signal64; 05-31-2017 at 11:28 PM.
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post #48 of 54 Old 06-01-2017, 02:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Nice!

Was it their "Belkin BN1250 Replacement Batteries - 12V 9Ah set of 2" or another model?
No it is their "APC AP30800-10 PureAV Replacement Battery - 12V 8Ah set of 2" model, AZ Battery product code (searchable) is APCGBAX727. Working like a champ yet again!
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post #49 of 54 Old 12-08-2017, 03:02 PM
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I'm back!

Welp, six years have passed since my last post on this thread. My Belkin has been sitting unused for the past year or so and when I tried to power it on -- no response. I'm guessing the batteries are shot again. I've already removed them.

Last time I got spares from here:
http://www.batteryspec.com/cgi-bin/c...nk&product=246

This time I want to give Arizona Battery a try, however, I just checked the Arizona Battery website moments ago and got this:

Thank you for visiting arizonabattery.com

Our site is currently undergoing a much needed maintenance and upgrade. For new and existing orders or information please contact us at [email protected]

Please visit us again as we will be back online soon.


Damn. Will try again another time. No rush to replace them and I have no plans on selling the Belkin either. It's a great UPS! Fortunately, I no longer have any DVR's (using Amazon FireTV + Kodi + Synology NAS since 2012) and my NAS is on a separate UPS.
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post #50 of 54 Old 12-08-2017, 03:52 PM
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Bonus: Assembly photos and tips!

PS - For those who need future reference of how it all connects, here are some photos of how it all goes together.

Tips:
1. I use packing tape to hold the batteries together as shown before placing it into the chassis. Makes it easier to install.
2. Channel the wires under the batteries and then between the two plastic "cushions" located in the bottom of the chassis, otherwise the batteries will not sit low enough to put the cover on. I use a strip of tape on the back of the two batteries to keep the black and red wires somewhat near the center.
3. There are a total of 13 screws that need to be removed in order to take off the cover.
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post #51 of 54 Old 05-29-2020, 11:19 AM
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Used just as power conditioner?

Last night, thunder in the air, our electricity went out for a second. The lights stayed on, the outage was so quick. But the 30800 had turned itself off and the HDTV with it.

So it's time to replace the batteries again.

Which has me thinking: why bother? Can the 30800 be used as just a power conditioner?

For my stereo gear and TV, with no data to lose, that would be good enough.

I wouldn't have to do anything.

Your ideas, please.

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post #52 of 54 Old 05-29-2020, 02:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usarmycwo View Post
Which has me thinking: why bother? Can the 30800 be used as just a power conditioner?

For my stereo gear and TV, with no data to lose, that would be good enough.

Obviously you can do what you like, and if you don't have any DVRs or disks (my 2-disk mirrored RAID unit I use with my DirecTV® DVR is connected to my Belkin) then obviously the risk is lower.


But, that said, I would not be comfortable with not having my boxes on something that could ride out a brief (or not-so-brief) power outage. YMMV, of course.


==


A quick cautionary tale: I have a 2010 Mac Pro. I have two APC UPS units in my computer room with it.


The Mac was attached to an older SMT1500 unit that started to have problems, it wouldn't recognize the battery anymore - even though I bought a new battery.


Eventually I replaced it with a newer SMT1000 and everything is fine now. But for a brief period of a few months, I went "bareback" as they say.


Well, I have weird random power glitches and outages from time to time, and during that "bareback" period the Mac took several "hits" amidship.


Eventually it said "Screw you, pal" and now when I power it off completely, it won't turn back on again - unless I yank out the power cable and let it sit for awhile.


I can't upgrade the firmware on it anymore, because if I download it and power-cycle it to install a new firmware update, it just shuts itself off if I press and hold the power button in (while turning it on) like you're instructed to.


Now maybe you're thinking "What does this have to do with A/V gear?" Yes, A/V gear is probably simpler and more robust than a 10-year-old tower Mac.


But it proved to me that electronic equipment can deteriorate given repeated unexpected power outages, so I decided I would never run any gear (A/V or computer-related) without having them on a battery backed-up UPS unit.
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post #53 of 54 Old 05-29-2020, 02:53 PM
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Honestly, I moved on.

I bought a computer style pure sine wave battery backup and have been happily using that for a number of years. It sits behind the console out of view. Most of my equipment is old enough by now that it just didn't make sense to throw money at protecting it. If any of my equipment dies, I will buy a new receiver or TV (and be a little thankful for the chance to upgrade!).
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post #54 of 54 Old 05-29-2020, 04:40 PM
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Quote:
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If any of my equipment dies, I will buy a new receiver or TV (and be a little thankful for the chance to upgrade!).
So I'm not the only one! My receiver (Technics) is about 20 years old. Why won't it break?!

"I bought a computer style pure sine wave battery backup and have been happily using that for a number of years." Yeah, but without any data to lose, I don't need battery backup, do I.

So I ask again: will a 30800 provide power conditioning if the batteries are dead? Even better, removed.
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