DIY 12V Remote Trigger for Onkyo Receiver - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 10 Old 03-13-2016, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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DIY 5V USB to12V Remote Trigger

This can be used for anything that needs a trigger such as electric screen, projector etc... Also you don't have to use a 12V power supply. Since you're switching the PS on/off with the relay you can use any voltage the relay will handle. In fact it will also switch AC so it can be used to control just about anything as long as it doesn't exceed the specs of the relay.

I made this because I have an Onkyo TX-NR809 Receiver that I use as a Pre/Pro. I use external amps to drive my system's speakers of which I have 3. An ATI 1505, ATI 1502 and Behringer NU3000DSP. None of them have remote trigger inputs. I do however plug everything into a Monster Power Line conditioner/power outlet component which does have a 12V remote trigger input that switches 4 of the outlets.




This receiver has 12V triggers for zones 2+3 but Onkyo in their infinite wisdom did not include a 12V trigger for zone 1 on this receiver nor do I believe on any of their recent receivers! What's a guy to do? Use the unused USB on the back of the unit to trigger it!



How can that be done? Well the Monster will accept 9V-12V to trigger the switched outlets but the USB only supply's 5V. I needed more voltage. So I googled a bit and discovered that a relay is what I needed along with a 12V power source.

Below is a diagram of how this all works. It took me and my non EE brain a bit to understand this very simple circuit. I hope that this diagram will help someone else out there.



So being the overkill guy that I am I decided to make this unit in a project box with individual jacks for all the connections to allow the most flexibility with cable lengths.







Here is the 5V relay module I used. I picked it up on Amazon for under $10. It has connection terminals and PCB mounting holes which made it easy to mount in the box with self adhesive backed stand-offs. There is a High/Low jumper that allows some flexibility on how it's wired too. I used the L setting and jumpered the DC- to the IN terminal to energize the coil.





Here it is wired up before closing the box and then with plugged everything in.





Now when the receiver turns on it powers the USB which in turn activates the 12V signal to the MP. The amps then turn on. When I turn it off the amps turn off.

PROBLEM SOLVED! :grin2:

Last edited by Brian S; 03-15-2016 at 06:23 AM.
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post #2 of 10 Old 03-15-2016, 08:22 PM
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Nice. You could probably use this module instead: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter...volt+converter

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post #3 of 10 Old 03-15-2016, 08:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olyteddy View Post
Nice. You could probably use this module instead: http://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converter...volt+converter
I don't have an EE's knowledge however I did look into those but was uncertain about how much current would it draw to go from 5V to 12V? USB is limited to 500ma IIRC. If it would work then it certainly would be a much easier solution.

Another thing is if I ever need to control more 12V devices I can use a larger 12V PS and run it through this relay with no issues since it won't rely on the USB for power.

Last edited by Brian S; 03-17-2016 at 10:38 AM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 03-17-2016, 10:06 AM
 
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Quote:
USB is limited to 500mv
500mA
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post #5 of 10 Old 03-17-2016, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scruff67 View Post
500mA
Yeah, my bad. That's what I meant.
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post #6 of 10 Old 03-17-2016, 10:43 AM
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Nice job.

It is very annoying that Onkyo doesn't allow the triggers to work for the main zone.

Once you get newer than the TX-NR809 it gets even more complex because they remove the rear USB port too...

Fortunately my Belkin PF60's trigger works from 3-30V so I was able to use the 5V USB output directly.

On my TX-NR929 given that there isn't even a rear USB so I had to trigger using the second HDMI output. The current requirement for the PF60 trigger is only 30mA so the HDMI output can supply enough current for it.

Keep in mind that current sensing power strips will also work well for this.

You can plug the power strip into your power center with the AVR as the control input and then use a wall wart to create the switched 12V output.

That way the amp is still on a different outlet from the AVR.

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post #7 of 10 Old 03-28-2016, 01:18 PM
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Nice job. I had a similar challenge, but wanted trigger control with IR. I ended up building something similar to your device.

I made a thread on it, but looks like I stuck it in the wrong forum

It's basically a 4 channel trigger controller, that uses IR commands to turn each trigger on/off. Cost about $35 in parts (including project box, jacks, etc ...).

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/162-ho...l#post42651234

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-03-2016, 12:22 AM
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Just bought a ext amp and cam across this problem as well.

Initially I created a USB to 1/8" plug adapter to trigger the amp (as it has a DC volt trigger of 3-15 volts or something). But I found that the rear USB port always has power on my Onkyo 809. I am using the HDMI standby feature that passes the HDMI signal to my plasma when not turned on - maybe that also keeps the USB live.

So it looks like I need another solution.

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post #9 of 10 Old 01-18-2019, 10:26 AM
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hello


is this usb cable 5vdc to 12vdc,
would work for a 12vdc 300ma trigger of a Monster Power hts 3500?

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Converte...7832321&sr=8-4
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post #10 of 10 Old 01-18-2019, 10:42 AM
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I just noticed that on my Onkyo, the USB port is always alloyed, so I can not take this solution, to operate a trigger 12v with the USB


on my usb key a red led stays on even if the receiver is off, so I guess it's still powered

Last edited by alnico5; 01-18-2019 at 10:54 AM.
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