November 19th, 2019 update:


Amplifier Rack:


More Pictures:

A while back I've moved away from and had sold the Cerwin-Vega S-2 EE speakers, and decided to go the DIY route from some great offerings from DIYSoundgroup.

Speakers consist of:

• The Elusive 1099 (LCR)
• Volt-10 LX (Rear Sides)
• Volt-10 LX (Rear Back)
• 4x Volt-6 for Atmos (Top Front and Top Rear)
• Dual Othorns (LFE)
• Dual 8FT³ dual opposed enclosures with 18" Dayton RSS460HO subwoofers. (LFE)
• Dual 11FT³ dual opposed enclosures with 21" Incriminator Audio Judge subwoofers. (LFE)
• 8FT³ enclosure with two 18" Stereo Integrity HT-18 V2 subwoofers for nearfield. (LFE)

Powered by:

• Marantz AV 7703 (Pre-Pro)
• Behringer DCX2496 (LFE channels)
• Crest Audio CC4000 (Left and Right 1099)
• Crest Audio CC2800 (Center 1099 and Rear Subwoofers.)
• SpeakerPower SP2-12000 (Quad 21" Incriminator Audio Judge subwoofers)
• QSC PLX2502 and QSX PLX2402 (One bridged per Othorn)
• Peavey IPR2 5000 (Quad Dayton 18" subwoofers.)
• Behringer iNuke NU4-6000 (Volt-10 LX x4 for the rear channels)
• Behringer iNuke NU4-6000 (Volt-6 for Atmos)
  
  

Other gear:

• LG 55EG9100 OLED HDTV - 1080P
• DVDO VP30
• IOGEAR 8x1 HDMI switch
• Roland M-1000 Digital Line Mixer
• Tripp-Lite 30amp rack mount power distribution center.
• XRGB-Mini Framemeister
• Impact 6x2 Matrix Component Switch
• Blackbird 4K Series HDMI Audio Inserter (For use with retro gaming consoles.)

Gaming systems:

• Atari Jaguar (Native RGB connection)
• NEC PC-Engine Duo-R (RGB modded)
• Nintendo AV Famicom (RGB modded)
• Super Nintendo Entertainment System (Native RGB connection)
• Nintendo 64 (UltraHDMI modded)
• Nintendo GameCube (Component cable connection.)
• Nintendo Wii U (HDMI)
• Nintendo Switch (HDMI)
• Sega Genesis Model 1 with Sega CD Model 1 (Native RGB connection)
• Sega Saturn (Native RGB connection)
• Sega Dreamcast (Native RGB/VGA connection via the Toro box)
• Sony Playstation 2 (Component connection)
• Sony Playstation 3 (HDMI)
• Sony Playstation 4 (HDMI)
• Xbox (Component connection)
• Xbox 360 (HDMI)
• Xbox One (HDMI)
• Xbox One X (HDMI)
  
• Oldschool Windows 95 / DOS gaming PC - 75MHz Intel Pentium with 16MB of RAM. Soundblaster AWE32 (CT3980) with S/PDIF optical connection for midi output to Roland M-1000 and analog out for digital sounds into Roland M-1000. Mixed into digital signal. Voodoo 3DFX card. - [Currently out of the system]

Other things:

• Navepoint 18U Deluxe IT Wallmount Cabinet Enclosure - 24" outside depth.
• Roland MT-32 - For DOS games with MT-32 support.
• Roland SoundCanvas SC-88 - For DOS games and General Midi usage.
• Yamaha MU-80 - General Midi usage.

Wiring Diagram for the Gaming Setup:
(Click for larger view)


I want to thank everyone here at AVS forums who have been rather helpful and inspirational to me. You guys and a good friend of mine (who no longer is with us. :( ) have really helped push me into diving more into DIY audio. I am quite thrilled with my system. :)

Setup appearance in late 2016:


Here's the original post setup from 2013.

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Updated the first post, since I've completely overhauled my system/layout of my room.

Some reason the smilies aren't working in that post though, but anyway, here are the current projects I plan to get done.

• Room treatment - I've been researching this extensively lately, and I plan to make some DIY acoustic panels and maybe some DIY bass traps too. Get some acoustic foam for some other areas.
• Wire Management - HDMI cables from the game consoles aren't long enough for one, and I need to re-do the wiring behind the shelving and inside the cabinet.
• DONE Dedicated Circuits - I've got 10AWG wire, I've been meaning to add a couple of 30 amp or 20 amp circuits for some time. Especially to make use of that Tripp-Lite!
• DONE New Pre-Amp - I plan to replace the Onkyo with a dedicated pre-amp, hopefully before this year is over! Then I need to get this Onkyo warrantied as it has shown some HDMI issues.
• Fan Mods - Peavey and the iNuke need to be fan modded. Which honestly, the Peavey needs it far more than the iNuke as it's the noisest amp. iNuke isn't really bad at all.
• Behringer DCX2496 Modification - I still need to modify the mic circuitry in my unit, as per my thread here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...ise-floor.html
• DONE ATMOS - I've decided to go ahead and make this into the list, I believe I can do some Dolby ATMOS config in my room with the right speakers. Though this can only be executed once I get the new pre-amp.

I'd also like to add more subwoofers to my system, I had been keeping an eye on the Mach 5 FTW-21s, but I'm not quite sure yet. It may be more ideal to just add a couple more dual opposed Dayton cabinets. Though I might also have to add some dedicated MBMs for the LCR if room treatment doesn't help the issue I have in the 200Hz range being sucked out from the LCR.

Room measurements are located here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-di...l#post39867002

I do hope the room treatments will help, I just need to figure out how to really figure out panel placements once I get ready to make them. 2' wide by 4' length panels will fit the ceiling angles perfectly. I'm looking for 2" to 3" thick panels. I can immediately use 2" mineral wool I can get at work, but I am checking to see if our vendor who we buy insulation from, carries the Owens Corning 700 series fiberglass boards. They really look like some nice options too. Especially for my target frequency range.

That looks....LOUD...lol

It's certainly well capable of being loud, especially in a room that size. Which my goal was to build a system that can be a bit effortless.



Also, as a small update for the thread, I'm planning to get a Marantz AV8802A within a few months, with the rack mount kit. Should also end up allowing me to expand to ATMOS, which I didn't think I could really accomplish due to ceiling restriction but I think I found the right speakers to get just for it. I shall see soon! Likely will start off with 7.1.2 configuration. Top middle speaker setting.

Cool! Looks like you will suffer from hearing loss, just kidding. Is your TV anchored? I can just imagine it shimmering a bit while watching a movie. Nice space. I bet you get slammed with some nice LFE during certain games.

This system just looks like FUN ! All those game consoles and games with that kind of audio gear must be heaven!

Whaaaat? Speak up, I can't hear you. Though it is a very real hazard, if one isn't careful.

No, TV isn't anchored, and it doesn't seem to shimmer from anything. With my previous TV, the worst I had was the plastic backing vibrating a little, but this one doesn't make a peep.

Yep! I quite enjoy it. Thanks!

Fun indeed! Thanks!


Especially the older game consoles, using the XRGB-Mini Framemeister and RGB output from consoles, I can have things beautifully scaled onto the HDTV.

Which reminds me, another thing for my to do list is find the right SCART switch for the game consoles.

That's a lot of bass...I like...

Othorns are now in place, and I'm enjoying them a lot.



Also getting ready for a pre-pro upgrade, I'll be getting a Marantz AV7703 soon, and already readying for the addition of Dolby Atmos.

Another iNuke NU4-6000 is now in the rack as well.


Currently working on acoustic panels too, so hopefully it won't be too much longer until I get those in place.

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Very nice!

After over 3 years of owning them the Othorn is still my overall favorite sub. For music I even prefer them to my AE TD18H+ mains!

If you had more space, I'd be encouraging you to turn them sideways toward your outside walls. Every horn I've ever measured in ANY room had better response and more SPL when corner fired. One room, almost 10db!

Thank you!

I can tell why too! Even for movies and games they really vastly improved the system! Using the recommended crossover point and settings mentioned on Data-Bass as well. So from 24Hz up to 120Hz filter on the Onkyo. Then I went ahead and let the Daytons take care of anything 34Hz and below.

Yeah, I wish I had more space, and a normal ceiling. Though I technically could pull the system back a bit from the wall, but I'd have to move a lot of things back too, so that would not work out so well.


Though now all I need are a couple of Crest CC5500 amps for the Othorns.

Beautiful setup! I'm a little jealous of your gamingg rig... Truly epic....

Yeah, really. An impressive list of old PC games too. I'm sure @Hoodcom and I would get along very well.

Pretty impressive "wall" of sound too. Almost all the way up there.

Thank you! Now all I need is more infrasonic power and I'll be golden, maybe.

Was enjoyable playing some Donkey Kong 64 on it last night too.

Probably so! Feel free to PM me anytime too, @Scott Simonian .

Haha, yeah, too bad the ceiling takes away so much potential of more wall of sound. Oh well, it's a perfect trade off. Since this room is above the garage, and insulated all over. Helping keep the bass toned way down from the rest of the house.

When I had the upstairs room above the dining room, all I had were some 15 inch Cerwin-Vega towers in a 15" Cerwin-Vega subwoofer, and mom thought a tornado was coming. That old setup ain't got nothing on this.

Now that is a gaming room, crazy, good job.

Update on my current setup.

A year ago today, I've had dedicated circuits added to my room. Custom box that my electrician came up with, so I didn't have to add individual boxes into the wall itself. Perfectly relocatable with minimal repair to the wall if ever needed. Plus, if I wanted to relocate the audio equipment into the closet nearby, I can do that due to the attic space being behind this wall that is accessible from an access door in the closet.



Circuits are: Three 30A 120V, One 30A 240V, and Three 20A 120V. One of the 20A 120V circuits are ran with 10AWG romex, so if I ever needed to upgrade it to a 30A 120/240V circuit in the future I can. The other two 20A circuits are 12AWG romex. The 30A 240V is for the SpeakerPower SP-12000 I want to buy in the future.

Shortly after that, I had purchased my Marantz AV7703 and a couple of pairs of KEF HTS3001 4" Coaxials for Dolby Atmos. However I've changed my layout again very recently. I've taken the Volt-6 down from the back wall, and built another pair of Volt-10 LX and put them at the same ear level as the side Volt-10 LX speakers. This move alone made really made a difference, having the speakers at ear level.

Then I have built acoustic panels, using Spoonflower to print my characters onto fabric for me and had put them on the back wall. I still need to get some panels made up for the front of the room for the first and second reflection points. For these I may use standard black fabric. Still trying to decide on some mounting solutions.

Then I've got some 13/16" Unistrut channel and bolted it to the ceiling joists and had a local machine shop make me some brackets so I could use my Volt-6 speakers (Having built a second pair) to use for my overhead channels. I still need to get the wiring properly situated but I think it's turned out great so far!





Other bits of update, would be the Impact 6x2 Matrix Component Switch I got for my older game consoles, so I could connect my PS2, GameCube, and original Xbox up to the XRGB-Mini Framemeister for easier switching needs.

Then I modded my SNES Mini (Not the SNES Classic) for an RGBs mod and TOSLINK mod, for which I also bought the Blackbird 4K Series HDMI Audio Inserter to go between the XRGB-Mini and my 8x1 HDMI switch. So I can switch between HDMI audio pass through and TOSLINK insertion for the game consoles that currently send digital audio. (PS2, Original Xbox, and SNES). So I don't have to worry about the analog audio output. (Which is then going through an ADC within the XRGB-Mini.)

Here's some pictures of the SNES Mini:






Also a video, using the capture setup for it:

I've even ended up building an HTPC for my PC gaming needs on my home theater system as well. Using a Thermaltake Core V21 chassis. Using a Core i7 7700k processor, ASUS ROG STRIX Z270G motherboard, MSI GeForce GTX 1070 graphics card, 32GB RAM, M.2 SSD 512GB. I also have my AverMedia Extreme Cap U3 connected to this as well. Using Zone 2 HDMI out of my Marantz AV7703 pre-pro.


Another addition to my setup would be my SCART switch, the gscartsw v3.4.



The next step is to get my nearfield subwoofer build completed, which use the SI HT-18 V2 drivers, which will be powered off the iNuke NU6000 DSP.


The two JBL 2242 drivers holding my center channel/TV will be going to a new home soon, since a friend of mine will be buying them off me. So I'm trying to figure out what to replace them with specifically. So far leaning towards a quicker solution by getting another pair of dual opposed Daytons put into place. That or splurge for a pair of dual opposed 21" drivers. Latter will be much more expensive, but will be a bigger upgrade. So we'll see.

December updates!

I've finally sold the JBLs I had, and I've ended up building dual opposed cabinets for 21" Incriminator Audio Judge subwoofers to add to my system.


The next step is getting a SpeakerPower SP-12000 for the IA Judge subwoofers. (Within the next couple of months hopefully!)

Only on AVS can you find set-ups where there are so many speakers that you have to look a few seconds to actually find the TV. I love it!!!!!

New toy in the system, for the retro gaming side. I got the OSSC in! This is basically a line doubler (up to 5x) for the game systems. Rather than an actual scaler like the XRGB-Mini Framemeister.



Further information on this can be seen here.


Thanks! So do I, really! Though it's also thanks to AVS I've reached this far in my setup, as far as audio is concerned.

That's a killer system man!! Very nice all the way around. I love how the front of the room is almost all sub



That said, I'm probably most jealous of the HDMI modded N64... I'm going to have to invest in that some day. I got an Everdrive64 recently. Barely dove into it yet, but N64, Sega Genesis, SNES... those were the days lol

Surprise the bass doesnt shake the tv off!?

I know right? I almost need more space to fit even more, ya know?

Haha, the HDMI modded N64 is totally worth it, especially with the end goal of getting the best video signal out every single gaming system, and running them through the right scaling solutions. Things are a tad bit out of date on my original post, but things like the xRGB Mini Framemeister and OSSC are just simply amazing. If you're into retro gaming, those are ultimately the devices to look into.

The Sega Genesis has native RGB output too, so it's one of the easiest consoles to get started with, along with the original larger models of the SNES. Then if you ever play the Gamecube, and you have the model with the Digital AV Port, then the GCHD would be the ticket for you there. Their latest release offers both HDMI and analog RGB or component outputs.

All this stuff would be pretty awesome on your theater, it'd totally be something awesome to see.

The subwoofer cabinets are dual opposed, so the design really helps keep that from being an issue.

I've updated the OP of this thread to have more accurate pictures and information, but I need to probably go ahead and remove the old content, unless anyone would like for the 'progress' of the history of my system be retained. lol

I've received my SpeakerPower SP2-12000, so I've attached a picture of it to my post here. This is what I've bought for the dual opposed 21" Incriminator Audio Judge subwoofers, since the Peavey IPR2-5000 just wasn't cutting it for them. Especially when I'm practically driving 1.5Ω final impedance per cabinet, per channel.

With that said, the entire subwoofer system has optimal power supplied to it again, at least the ones that aren't the Othorns. The dual opposed 18" Dayton subwoofers were moved back to the Peavey, re-wired back to parallel for 2Ω impedance off the amp, since I had to run them in series for 8Ω impedance when I ran them off the Behringer NU-6000DSP, which wasn't cutting it for them either.

I've ran two pairs of 10AWG wire per 21" IA Judge cabinet, since I chose to have the SP2-12000 configured with the CH1 + CH1 / CH2 + CH2 configuration. Effectively giving each driver it's own cable up until the Speakon connection of the amp itself.

I'm certainly interested in potentially ordering another SP2-12000 later down the road, especially for the Othorns. Which would allow me to consider upgrading the drivers to the B&C 21" IPAL drivers.

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