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post #901 of 931 Old 10-18-2019, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
That is correct, and the clearest example was as i mentioned the guitars in Bailando: clearly in the 'pure surrounds', but not at all in the 'surround wides' (and of course not in the 'pure wides' either).
Nalleh, do you remember if at that time we checked whether the guitars that could be heard in the surrounds of the 5.1.4+wides config were actually object sounds, and NOT coming from rear surrounds bed channels folded into the surrounds of the 5.1.4 config?

Edit: OK, I did some test myself with this clip. First of all, those guitars are indeed exclusively positioned to the sides, there are no guitars in the rears with a 7.x.x config nor in the wides with a 9.x.x config. But the thing is that I hear the opposite of what you have reported. If I switch from 9.1.4 to 5.1.4+wides (so cutting out the rears), the guitars are now also heard through the wides. So this clip does IMO not provide us with evidence that the part that is arrayed to the wides (in a 5.1.4+wides config) only contains bed channel info and not objects. Maybe the Atmos decoder can in the end ONLY copy the whole side surround audio stream, including objects that are not part of the original bed channel, and array it to the wides. PS: Just like Trinnov has recently explained and which I reported on the Atmos and the Altitude thread.

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post #902 of 931 Old 10-18-2019, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maikeldepotter View Post
Nalleh, do you remember if at that time we checked whether the guitars that could be heard in the surrounds of the 5.1.4+wides config were actually object sounds, and NOT coming from rear surrounds bed channels folded into the surrounds of the 5.1.4 config?

Edit: OK, I did some test myself with this clip. First of all, those guitars are indeed exclusively positioned to the sides, there are no guitars in the rears with a 7.x.x config nor in the wides with a 9.x.x config. But the thing is that I hear the opposite of what you have reported. If I switch from 9.1.4 to 5.1.4+wides (so cutting out the rears), the guitars are now also heard through the wides. So this clip does IMO not provide us with evidence that the part that is arrayed to the wides (in a 5.1.4+wides config) only contains bed channel info and not objects. Maybe the Atmos decoder can in the end ONLY copy the whole side surround audio stream, including objects that are not part of the original bed channel, and array it to the wides. PS: Just like Trinnov has recently explained and which I reported on the Atmos and the Altitude thread.
Well, first of all this was done a while ago, and second of all i did not include the rears in any of these test. Was too hung up in what the wides were doing i guess, LOL.
But i still remember that there was a big difference in what pur wides, sur wides and pure surrounds did. And if there was guitars in the sur wides, it was incredible faint, and VERY different than from the pure surrounds.

But then again things have happened in the Atmos world since i did this, so maybe this test might behave different with todays gear.
For example the 8500 is handling DTS:X a bit different than my older 7200 does.

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post #903 of 931 Old 11-04-2019, 02:13 PM
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@Nalleh out of curiosity, did you change the weight on your slaps? Wondering what you found to be a good balance on them. I'm putting my boxes together now and it got me thinking. I haven't update my thread yet but here's a sneak preview of one standing on it's end. I need to test it too because I'm not sure if I gave enough clearance for the SLAP when it's going in. I might have to add a 2nd bezel on it get another 3/4" to be safe.
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post #904 of 931 Old 11-04-2019, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DesertDog View Post
@Nalleh out of curiosity, did you change the weight on your slaps? Wondering what you found to be a good balance on them. I'm putting my boxes together now and it got me thinking. I haven't update my thread yet but here's a sneak preview of one standing on it's end. I need to test it too because I'm not sure if I gave enough clearance for the SLAP when it's going in. I might have to add a 2nd bezel on it get another 3/4" to be safe.
No, i haven’t touched the weight on them! I always planned on just trying them as is, and they worked so good, i just left them as is, LOL.

Also, the manual says no weight allowed if mounted downfiring, so i am already pushing it But stuff that !!

I am considering testing adding some 75gram discs i got a while ago, to see what difference it may do, but again: they work just about perfect as is, and i have to remove boxes, and take out all SLAPS to add weight, so i haven’t bothered yet.

Yeah, it is a good idea to leave them some room to work, i have about 2" clearance under mine.

Tip: your result may vary, but i had a tuff time getting that original rubber gasket to seal properly, so i removed it, and used a adhesive rubber gasket instead. Job done

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post #905 of 931 Old 11-04-2019, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
No, i haven’t touched the weight on them! I always planned on just trying them as is, and they worked so good, i just left them as is, LOL.

Also, the manual says no weight allowed if mounted downfiring, so i am already pushing it But stuff that !!

I am considering testing adding some 75gram discs i got a while ago, to see what difference it may do, but again: they work just about perfect as is, and i have to remove boxes, and take out all SLAPS to add weight, so i haven’t bothered yet.

Yeah, it is a good idea to leave them some room to work, i have about 2" clearance under mine.

Tip: your result may vary, but i had a tuff time getting that original rubber gasket to seal properly, so i removed it, and used a adhesive rubber gasket instead. Job done

Your boxes look GREAT, man
Thanks, this rubber gaskets are odd. I haven't checked how good their seal is. After posting I've been doing more work on the trim pieces and the speaker stands I'm building for my rear surrounds. The SLAPs don't have as much clearance as they should. I think they're going to hit the drive at negative xmax. I have an extra sheet of 3/4" and 1/2" baltic birch here so I cut them down to size to make an extra 1.25" bezel to attach. That'll give me a bit more than needed. I totally spaced about the depth they needed when I made the original design.

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post #906 of 931 Old 11-04-2019, 05:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DesertDog View Post
Thanks, this rubber gaskets are odd. I haven't checked how good their seal is. After posting I've been doing more work on the trim pieces and the speaker stands I'm building for my rear surrounds. The SLAPs don't have as much clearance as they should. I think they're going to hit the drive at negative xmax. I have an extra sheet of 3/4" and 1/2" baltic birch here so I cut them down to size to make an extra 1.25" bezel to attach. That'll give me a bit more than needed. I totally spaced about the depth they needed when I made the original design.
Spoiler alert: i actually made the same boo-boo when i mounted mine, so the SLAPS are a bit close to the JBL magnets inside the box on negative Xmax, as you say. However i i think i measured right below 2", so i should be fine. When the JBL’s are at full tilt, the SLAPS are at ~60mm, so there should be clearance
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post #907 of 931 Old 11-05-2019, 12:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Ever so slightly update.

I had the VNF boxes placed on the TR Sleds with them bolted to it( can be seen at top of pic) to avoid them moving around, and also make them more of a "one unit" so all movements got transferred to the seat.

However, i noted creaks and noises from them when they moved, as in playing heavy content. I also noted that if i tried lifting the sleds at the outer rear cornes, it flexed a bit.

So i made a tiny "brace" from scrap pieces between the top of each boxes, thereby linking the boxes both at the bottom AND top. This made a big difference, all noise/creaks was eliminated, there is NO flex when trying to lift outer corner, and it actually made it more efficient at transferring movement to the seat, as now all 3 boxes is litterally all working as one. Job done

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post #908 of 931 Old 11-15-2019, 01:18 PM
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@Nalleh - I have a similar setup as yours (7200 + 6300). Do you have any audio delay issues after calibrating both of the units independently?

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post #909 of 931 Old 11-15-2019, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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@Nalleh - I have a similar setup as yours (7200 + 6300). Do you have any audio delay issues after calibrating both of the units independently?
You mean when watching movies ? Yes I have to adjust lip sync from time to time depending on sound format and 2D/3D movies.

One of the pitfalls of doing this trick i guess

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post #910 of 931 Old 11-15-2019, 09:15 PM
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Would you have that issue if both AVR's were the same model?

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post #911 of 931 Old 11-16-2019, 08:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Would you have that issue if both AVR's were the same model?
I don’t know, but presumably it would help. My 8500 and 7200 are several years apart, and have slightly different menus regarding lip sync, but they still receive the exact same signal, so it is strange that they don’t process it the same.

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post #912 of 931 Old 11-19-2019, 12:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Alaways someone thinking of new tricks, LOL!!!

@SBuger , you may know about Harpervision, as you bragged about his settings for you new PJ?

Well, the other day i found this thread:


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/465-h...rojectors.html

It appears he found a way to get Dolby Vision to non-DV displays !!!

By using a HDfury Vertex and tricking the source by using a LLDV Sony A1 EDID, both OPPO 203/5, ATV4K and XB1X will "unlock" it’s Dolby Vision layer!!

It is not perfect, but i tried it on my Vertex2, and it works! And even though this is a cheat code and probably need a display calib, i must say the initial test show very promising! Picture look noticable better, with better dynamics, more pop, and better blacks
I am in no way an expert on calibrating a TV/PJ and what i am looking at may be all kinds of wrong, LOL. But my eyes like what they see

And hey: i was using the OPPO tone mapping HDR>SDR or Custom gamma curves anyway, so not exactly textbook as it was, and this sure looks better than those cheats

And it works on all displays/PJ, and it can even convert HDR10 to DV(well at least the OPPO and some Sony’s can), and supposedly gains dynamic tone mapping too

Cool, and i already had the Vertex2 How awsome is it to be able to get a better picture by just changing some setting on gear you already have, LOL.
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post #913 of 931 Old 11-19-2019, 04:43 PM
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^^^ Right on man!!! I’ll check out that thread better when I get a chance.

Yeah, I’m absolutely loving the Harper Vision. Well, a tweaked Harper Vision. His was too dark and still a little dull looking to me on HDR content, as well as having to use in high lamp, which was way too loud for my liking. With it tweaked, I can run it in Eco mode (can barely hear the fan) and is super bright and punchy with HDR material, which is what I like. I don’t use a FURY or Vertex though like most of you JVC guys do though. The HV and HV tweak I’m using actually has the Oppo (or whatever the source) send the full UHD and Color Signal to the PJ, where it is then tone mapped within the PJ. Dave Harper was a genius IMO coming up with this. I tried using the Oppo’s tone mapping for a while, but this way just kicks the crap out of it, no comparison at all from what I found. But yeah, this is a cheat as well by tone mapping the Full HDR signal within the PJ for a "Super SDR image’ I guess you could say, but I’m cool with that

I’ll have a look at that thread but can’t imagine being much happier with the image than what the tweaked HV gives and is easy to do too. But, I’m open minded about all this stuff so will check it out

Thanks for the link man!!!

So awesome that it’s giving you better results!!!
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post #914 of 931 Old 11-19-2019, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Yeah, you may be more into this picture setting stuff than me, i have just use dthe OPPO tone mapping lately, but think this is my new way of doing it. Watched Thor Ragnarok earlier and it is just normal HDR10 and used OPPO’s Force DV mode and it was mindblowingly good

And then i had to pop in Aquaman, which is DV, to test a little, and just had to take some pics. Just with my phone and handheld, and not sure how it will be compressed when uploading and seen on your screen, but it looked insane!! Very exciting







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post #915 of 931 Old 11-19-2019, 05:48 PM
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^^^ Awesome, Pics look amazing!!!!

Hell Yeah bro, so excited for you!!!! Yeah man, I hear ya, getting an image that your super pleased with can be so exciting and really does make a difference. I always thought I was mainly a Bass and TR guy, but now I find that I enjoy the PQ and color on these UHD HDR movies just as much as the bass and TR these days LOL. It really does help with the whole experience!!!

The cool thing is, it makes them ALL look great, I’m sure it will on yours too. With tone mapping using the Oppo, some would look pretty good and others not so great. Also just using the HDR controls the projector has most most times would leave a lot to be desired on most HDR content. Just way too dark and dull. Now I feel it's as great as it was bad LOL
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post #916 of 931 Old 11-20-2019, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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I know, i am a bass and sound guy too, LOL, but the images i am seing these days make me wanna see A lot of my movies again, HAHA. Now i know how you felt when you discovered how good the pic on your new PJ was

Ok, on another note:

So, i got an idea (again) about another use of cantilever. On my TR Sleds i have the BK’s up front with iso’s underneath. Altough this gives them some room to work, eventually even the iso’s will "stop", which is under heavy ULF use, and this will make them bottom out easier.
I was thinking: what if i REMOVE the front iso’s and thereby giving the BK’s more room to work. Basically the BK’s will be in "free air", and will kind of be cantilevered from the midpoint of the sleds, where the MA’s are, and forward. NORMALLY with just a plattform this wouldn’t work, as it would tilt the plattform and it would sit on the floor, but guess what: on my plattform i have 300lb of VNF’s bolted to the rear of plattform that works as a counterweigth, LOL.

So i tried it, but i didn’t remove the front iso’s, i just moved them rearwards about 1ft. So i removed those with red cross in pic below and put them were the blue dots are.



Still, the TR Sleds are so sturdy, the clearance to the floor is the same under the front, they did not tilt, and sitting down in the seats was no problem

So did it work? Well, i found a couple of good movies to test it out: Jurassic World and Jurassic World: Fallen Kingdom.

It was clear from the first dinosaur stomp that my idea worked I even went for broke and REMOVED the negative LS and negative PEQ i used to prevent the BK’s bottoming before i started the movie. And no bottoming occured !!!! It was just EPIC ULF all the way, holy cow this movie is awsome
The first one is regular HDR10, but i used the force DV setting and this movie has never looked better

As good as the first one is, JWFK is on another level !!!! A-M-A-Z-I-N-G !!!! When the vulcano goes off and they have to run, HOLY AMAZEBALLS was i pummeled with waves of ULF!!! It was totally crazy, and i could defenitely feel that the BK’s had increased displacement!! What a ride!!

Speaking of vulcano: this one IS in Dolby Vision, and it showed! The lava from the vulcano looked on fire !! My jaws was on the floor! I could not believe the PJ could throw such an amazing picture, it was truly a eyeopener !
I think i is a combo of me not having the best way/settings on the PJ before, and the new DV settings is much closer (and a bit better)to what it should be, but no matter: it is jawdropping !

So between the new DV settings and this BK’s mod, i got 2 pretty major upgrades for FREEEEEE! How cool is that
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post #917 of 931 Old 11-20-2019, 07:41 PM
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^^^ Wicked cool my bro, on the new ‘free air’ BK mount and the DV settings for better image!!!

Yep, I TOTALLY agree about free air on the BKs and the isos a little ways away from them, giving them more leverage and range of motion without bottoming as easily. Mine are setup pretty much the same way with 'free air', just on the rear where yours are on the front. Mine are attached directly to my seating behind the armrests (with iso in front up under the seat feet, but probably feels similar to yours. I’ve also taken the Negative LS off of mine as well and haven’t bottomed them yet. I was talking about adding 4 more the other day in the TR thread, but honestly, I don't know that I need them. In fact, I backed my BKs off 3db today for a lot of different demos and they feel just right (I Know, WTF??? LESS LOL). I don't know that my BKs have ever felt better and more powerful (the whole TR package actually, realism as well). Adding more BKs would probably be a waste, but then again, they may give a more powerful synergistic violent feel within the body with 4 more, even with them all ran at lower levels to get about the same amount of shake if that makes since. I feel like Ive got plenty of shake at this point, Ive just been after a more violent feel within the body, and these BK LFE's seem to bring it in spades mounted like this.

Crazy how a thought about something in your rig pops into your head and then works like a charm huh!!! : I love it when that happens, and free makes it all the better

Yeah man, I know exactly the part your talking about in JW:FK, I LOVE that scene and have played it numerous times LOL And yeah, the visuals in this one are insanely good. YUP, that lava ….WOWZERS huh!!! :0

Great stuff here Nalleh, as usual!!!!!! Your rig just keeps getting better, AWESOME!!!!! Your a true inspiration around here in many ways my friend!!!
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post #918 of 931 Old 11-20-2019, 08:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks my good friend.

Yes, your success with your free air mounting of your BK’s(BK actually has a optional bracket that mounts it just like that), my succes with the VNF/BOSS cantilevered and also the fact that i have the counterweigth VNF to balance it out, made me think about it. In fact i might try something similar with moving the REAR iso’s forward, to give the SLAPS some more viggle room, LOL.

I am also going to do the re-greasing of the BK’s. I got some time off next week, so i will do it then.

Awsome to hear you could remove the negative LS too on your BK’s. It made mine feel much better in that area, very noticable actually

Ohh, and BTW: i also tried the force DV trick on a BD!!! I put in the bluray of Aquaman, and gosh garn it: it looked GREAT !!! I tried the same scenes as i did on the UHD: when Aquaman and redhead first comes to the underwater city. Totally breathtaking pictures !

Which reminds me: i HAVE to see the 3D version of that movie (i got the 4K/3D combo).I bet those scenes are off the charts cool in 3D

Not sure if the force DV work in 3D though, LOL .
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post #919 of 931 Old 11-28-2019, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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More mods, LOL.

Got some inner tubing from a wheelbarrow to put under my TR Sleds

Air suspension, LOL.

Not much pressure should be needed, a couple psi at most i guess, so a little handpump is more than enough.



A little hodge-podge with some air hoses, and tire valves later and voila! I am using the earlier block off boards i used on my VNF’s when i used 2 JBL’s to have between the air bladders and sleds.



And mounted it looks like this, with this coming out to one side. So before watching a movie, just pump it up a little and it clears the normal iso’s, and you have air suspension. Of course fully adjustable After movie, just let out the air, and it’s back to normal



A little video. I am just moving it with one hand on top of the VNF. Pretty "floaty"


I have to thank @trhought for this idea

Not tested much yet, but this seems to have merit, and like i said, can be adjusted within pretty a pretty broad specter, i think
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post #920 of 931 Old 11-28-2019, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nalleh View Post
More mods, LOL.

Got some inner tubing from a wheelbarrow to put under my TR Sleds

Air suspension, LOL.

Not much pressure should be needed, a couple psi at most i guess, so a little handpump is more than enough.

A little hodge-podge with some air hoses, and tire valves later and voila! I am using the earlier block off boards i used on my VNF’s when i used 2 JBL’s to have between the air bladders and sleds.

And mounted it looks like this, with this coming out to one side. So before watching a movie, just pump it up a little and it clears the normal iso’s, and you have air suspension. Of course fully adjustable After movie, just let out the air, and it’s back to normal

A little video. I am just moving it with one hand on top of the VNF. Pretty "floaty"

I have to thank @trhought for this idea

Not tested much yet, but this seems to have merit, and like i said, can be adjusted within pretty a pretty broad specter, i think
Nalleh....Awesome setup! You went one step further than me with the on-the-fly adjustment capability. It definitely brings more TR than the traditional 30-40 durometer isos based on my testing. Looking forward to hearing your impressions. I went back to the original isos only because I wasn't sure how durable the inner tubes would be over time....especially when my son has the football team over for movies after practice

The credit for this idea goes to @Longeze . He came up with the original idea of using inner tubes. Then, I thought of combining utilities of the inner tube by using a larger diameter inner tube that could be placed concentric to each JBL driver like a hovercraft for each JBL. With this setup not only does the inner tube provide the "floating sensation" but it also captures the pressure wave off the back of the JBL driver to add additional TR....like hovercraft lift basically. He actually built the hovercraft version after our brainstorming session and reported great results.

I built the non-hovercraft version using the smaller diameter inner tubes as isolators like yours and was impressed with the added TR. The non-hovercraft version can handle more abuse because the smaller diameter, thicker inner tubes are stronger than larger diameter thinner inner tubes needed for the hovercraft version. Even then, I didn't think the stronger inner tubes could handle the abuse from teenage boys so I abandoned that setup.

Your idea of having both the inner tube isolator option and the traditional isolator option is a great one! I'm thinking even in my case, if the inner tubes developed a leak from abuse while I'm not around, the BOSS platforms would still have the traditional isolators as a back-up and still provide TR until the problem is remedied.

Great idea and setup! Looking forward to learning more from your experiments
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post #921 of 931 Old 11-28-2019, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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^^^ Yes, the possibility of leaks was the reason i left in the normal iso’s. That way, if a leaks occur, it won’t be all lopsided and on the floor And to be frank, it is WAY to floaty for everyday use, LOL. If the other person in the couch moves, it is like being in a boat on the ocean! It is basially a rocking chair now, LOL! So i thought it would be best to leave it "optional". And with the handpump it works great, there is probably just 6-7 pumps from on the iso’s to free floating. But i need to get a pressure gauge, to monitor how much is needed, and i need one with probably max 0-10 psi, because the tubes are still way soft even when free floating. And to be able to know what pressure is suitable for "movie time", so it gets consistent every time.

Also, the size and number of innertubes can be used to tune it going forward, this was with 2 innertubes and they are ~4 inch inflated height(width of the tire). This might be too much height compared to pressure needed, so that will need some testing.

I really don’t see it being a problem about durability, the pressure needed is minimal and as long as there isn’t any sharp objects near them, nails, sharp edges etc, i don’t think it will be a problem. They are meant for a good bit of more pressure than in this use case. But time will tell These innertubes certenly seem like they are solid enough.

I am more worried about the hoses slipping apart, as some wasn’t "ment to fit" and just has a press fit, LOL. I just forced them into each other . But again low pressure, so we’ll see.

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post #922 of 931 Old 11-28-2019, 11:03 AM
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^^^ Yes, the possibility of leaks was the reason i left in the normal iso’s. That way, if a leaks occur, it won’t be all lopsided and on the floor And to be frank, it is WAY to floaty for everyday use, LOL. If the other person in the couch moves, it is like being in a boat on the ocean! It is basially a rocking chair now, LOL! So i thought it would be best to leave it "optional". And with the handpump it works great, there is probably just 6-7 pumps from on the iso’s to free floating. But i need to get a pressure gauge, to monitor how much is needed, and i need one with probably max 0-10 psi, because the tubes are still way soft even when free floating. And to be able to know what pressure is suitable for "movie time", so it gets consistent every time.

Also, the size and number of innertubes can be used to tune it going forward, this was with 2 innertubes and they are ~4 inch inflated height(width of the tire). This might be too much height compared to pressure needed, so that will need some testing.

I really don’t see it being a problem about durability, the pressure needed is minimal and as long as there isn’t any sharp objects near them, nails, sharp edges etc, i don’t think it will be a problem. They are meant for a good bit of more pressure than in this use case. But time will tell These innertubes certenly seem like they are solid enough.

I am more worried about the hoses slipping apart, as some wasn’t "ment to fit" and just has a press fit, LOL. I just forced them into each other . But again low pressure, so we’ll see.
I'm loving the hand pump idea. Longeze was even thinking of controlling pressure through a PID loop since he's in the controls trade.

The tubes lend themselves to lots of different opportunities for experimentation for sure.

Teenage boys and all their horseplay was my biggest concern....especially when I'm not around to keep an eye on them Having the isolators as a backup would definitely ease my concerns.

Happy experimenting!
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post #923 of 931 Old 11-28-2019, 04:01 PM
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Great stuff as always, Nalleh, can't wait to hear your impressions of it!!!
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post #924 of 931 Old 11-29-2019, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Did some Viberry’s today with the new "baggers"

First of all i tested with different air pressure on the bladders. I had it "tuned" to the same height as with the Hudson iso, so the plattform was level. Call it level 0mm. And then i increased pressure until the rear of plattform was 5mm higher, and then to 10mm higher, so level 5mm and level 10mm. Still don’t have a pressure gage, so i go by height only.

HOWEVER, all levels measured EXACTLY the same !! So with these(4inch height) bladders, air pressure is a moot point
In order to get stiffer suspension from the bladder, i need more air pressure, but that makes them to tall, so to test that i need smaller bladders(less height), or make more height/room for the bladders i have.

Anyway, here is some comparisons with the timestamps i posted in the Martian review i did the other day.
New air suspension is green and Hudsons are orange.

The airlock scene got a little less linear, but remember this is not nesesserily meant to be linear, it is just the content played here.
Still improved several dB’s in several areas. Might also be different resonance frequensies on the iso’s vs bladders.



Storm looks much better, with better exctension too Much smoother curve too.



Same with launch. Gains pretty much everywhere, touching ~ 140dB between ~10-20hz




Regarding having the plattform level: i recessed the rear Hudson iso’s about 1/2 inch up into the plattform, so when the plattform is level and resting on the bladders, there is about that clearance, 1/2 inch for the bladders to work. So when i let out the air, the plattform is a tiny bit lower in the rear, but no biggie

The baggers do feel more "smooth" and effortless than the iso’s, so this feels promising What still amazes me is how presice and dynamic the TR sleds can be over such a large frequency area. Really cool to have both fast transient and slow wobbles, and with texture and definition. Awsome !
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post #925 of 931 Old 11-29-2019, 06:48 PM
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^^^ AWESOME, Nalleh!!!!! Looks like it gave you some real nice gains. It just keeps getting better and better for you my Bro!!!!!
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post #926 of 931 Old 12-02-2019, 01:11 AM
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Crazinesssss! Pure AVS stuff here! And comprehensive explanation of testing results. I'm still ages behind, wondering what to add (and how!) to my system and .... voilà another step forward from you in a new and different direction!
Impressed
Congrats!
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post #927 of 931 Old 12-02-2019, 08:40 AM
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As DJ Magic Mike says....BASS is the name of the game! Pure bassgasm Nalleh!
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post #928 of 931 Old 12-02-2019, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, much appreciated

Well, i got another idea the other day, LOL. If it works like i am thinking it might improve things even more, as if that is needed, HAHA!!

The idea moves things around quite a bit, but to test out the idea can be done with current config. Just need to get the couch off the TR sleds to do it, so a bit of lifting.

No details yet, but i’ll see if i can try it out later this week

Stay tuned
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post #929 of 931 Old 12-02-2019, 02:50 PM
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This looks interesting, the way you described the feeling more smooth and effortless is pretty much exactly what i experienced with the cantilevered um18s in free air without isos.
with isos it kinda had a more sharp feeling and limited the range of motion in the lower frequencies i guess
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post #930 of 931 Old 12-02-2019, 02:51 PM
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