No, the TV will run the program pretty much as normal. I've just changed the settings so it displays a banner at the top and bottom of the frame with the poster in the middle, like this.
Here is the 3D model I built in Sketchup.
A breakdown of all the sections.
Close-up of the box and face frames as completed. You can see just how simple the design is.
My cut list layout. Used just over 25% of a full 4'x8' sheet of 1/2" MDF.
The LEDs will be diffused by hot glueing pingpong balls over the openings. This does make a nice effect but I found the cheap pingpong balls ordered vary in quality with some being very thin walled and others thicker. I'll be using as many of the thicker as I can because they don't dent as easy and they diffuse better. The thin wall ones make it easy to see the light source directly.
As mentioned, the lights are controlled by an Arduino Nano clone. I found this website with a fantastic pre-written sketch that offers a ton of different light sequences. I'm no master coder but I was able to decipher what parts of the code I needed to in order to get different actions for the theater chase mode, as well a changing the sequences order. Hans, who wrote this article and sketch, is very helpful and fully willing to offer suggestions and advice. I still have a few things to tinker with and am hoping to be able to use the Arduino to control a few of the TV's functions.
Tweaking 4 All
Basic video of the theater chase program.
His tutorial does a very good job of explaining how to hook-up your Arduino, a SPST switch and the LEDs. I will share my sketch code as well once I've got it worked out.
A few notes. The entire physical project took about 6 hours to complete while dealing with some cold rainy weather. I was going faster than I should have and next time I would take a trip to my dad's to borrow his biscuit joiner for the connections of the face frame. They did not line up completely flush after being secured to the box frame and the biscuits would have kept them even. Once everything is filled, sanded, painted and installed no one will know but just a good woodworking practice.
Getting the spacing for the lights was made easy with Sketchup using the simple clone and divide commands. If you don't know Sketchup and are looking at doing any sort of projects like this I HIGHLY recommend getting it and learning some of the basics. Designing this project took me about 10 minutes, with several hours more tinkering. Once you learn how to draw simple shapes and use groups (very key) the rest comes with practice and watching YouTube videos.
WS2812B RGB LED String
A big note though is that using Sketchup for the lights layout left a slight error. I was using fractional units to 1/16" but the spacing was actually about a 1/64" larger. The space between each light is shown as 2 9/16" but if I'd laid out the first light at the spacing and carried on I would have been 3/16" out by the time I got to the final light. This is true for both the side spacing and top spacing. To compensate I divided each section of lights on each board into 4 sections and the spacing between each section gained an extra 1/16". This way I added the 3/16" difference up over the coarse of the row but it's imperceptible.
Getting the TV hanging on the wall vertically level has been a great challenge and then aligning the frame around it even more of a challenge. Because this hangs on a stub-wall above a staircase leading down to the theater it's a very difficult job. I think next time I would build the frame with a full 1/2" back sheet and then mount the TV mount exactly in place to the back sheet with a couple screws and the 2"x2" frame around the outer edge. The back sheet would then be easy to put against the wall and level plus screw directly into studs. Then put bolts into the studs through the TV mount as well. Mount the TV and slide the box frame over and enjoy.