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post #1 of 13 Old 04-30-2020, 03:59 AM - Thread Starter
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Home built UST cabinet cooling.

Hi,

I need some advice on running/wiring ventilation fans in a (Ikea) cabinet that houses a UST and gaming console.

My plan was to increase the air flow through the cabinet using 2 x quiet PC fans and if possible use a thermostat to controll the fans coming on/off.

Be grateful if you guys could look at the gear I have ordered from Amazon to see if I am heading in the right direction.

I have purchased.

W1209 LED Digital Thermostat Controller Temperature Temp Control Switch Module Board 12V DC -50-110°C with Waterproof Sensor Probe (Blue LED+Acrylic Case)
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0796S2V7G/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_NTQQEbA9QAEAK

ARCTIC F12 - 120 mm Standard Case Fan, Ultra Low Noise Cooler, Silent Cooler with Standard Case, Push- or Pull Configuration possible, Fan Speed: 1350 RPM
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002KTVFTE/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_KUQQEbTP2QC9Z

KUNCAN DC 5v To DC 9v or 12v Adjustable Step-up Voltage Regulator Converter with Switch DC Connector 5.5 x 2.1 mm https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01K44LE4M/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_RIQQEbVTDCMNV

From what I understand the digital thermostat controller will power both fans from the same relay so that they come on in unison to draw air in and vent air out of the cabinet. I plan to house them in the back of the cabinet positioned eother side so that the air flows in around/across the equipment and then out the other side.

The thermostat can be powered by the voltage regulator that draws power from a USB. I plan to use a USB on a power extension so that the cabinet temperature can be regulated for either piece of equipment in the cabinet

If this set up works I may add another pair of fans so that I could ensure top and bottom of the cabinet are cooled effectively. I could also think about an additional thermostat probe so that each piece of equipment has its tem monitored independently...???

What am I talking about, I'm a complete noob when it comes to electronics, wiring or anything else associated with AV to be perfectly honest... but I am enthusiastic...!!!

Any help gratefully received.
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post #2 of 13 Old 04-30-2020, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
What am I talking about, I'm a complete noob when it comes to electronics, wiring or anything else associated with AV to be perfectly honest... but I am enthusiastic...!!!

Any help gratefully received.
The important part of course is that there are vents in the proper places to bring in the fresh air. Intake low, Exhaust high. Vents on the bottoms of shelves is helpful too. What IKEA cabinet are you using?

Here's site you might find useful for both hardware and technical guides:

https://www.acinfinity.com/

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
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Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
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post #3 of 13 Old 05-01-2020, 04:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Jonas,

That makes sense with regard vents. My idea was to have fans on the same level trying to circulate the air round and out of the space in a U shape... guessing from your post it'd be best to have that U shape from bottom to top? It may be an idea to have 2 drawing air in the bottom at the back and 2 drawing it out at the top back?

Having vents on the front wont work with the cupboard finish. Vents underneath wont work as the cupboard is flat to the floor. After doing a bit more reading on here it sounds like a perforated or slated shelf for the UST to sit on would again help allowing the device to cool its self more efficiently.

The cupboard I am using is one of the besta rage. I will have 3 of these connected to form a credenza. I plan to take the centre partition out of the middle one and add at least 1 shelf to house AV equipment. Shelf height will be dependant on how high above the unit the UST projects its image. Obviously going to modify the top to allow the image to be projected. Plan to use AV glass across the top (hopefully recessed) into a 20mm solid worktop that will cover all 3 units.

As for access to the front I might try to modify the draw fronts to work folding down. Initial plan was to build double width draws that the AV gear would sit on and be slid out for access... but there isn't much point and I dont want to disturb the position of the UST unnecessarily.

Any help, pointers or advice greatly appreciated.


https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/besta-storage-combination-w-doors-drawers-white-stained-oak-effect-kallviken-dark-grey-concrete-effect-s09324825/
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post #4 of 13 Old 05-01-2020, 07:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
That makes sense with regard vents. My idea was to have fans on the same level trying to circulate the air round and out of the space in a U shape... guessing from your post it'd be best to have that U shape from bottom to top? It may be an idea to have 2 drawing air in the bottom at the back and 2 drawing it out at the top back?
That's better than nothing, but ideally I think you'd want some crossflow. In the back, and out the back will help, but it won't be as efficient as it would be if the lower fans/vents were placed somewhere else closer to the front of the unit. Could you place vents in the sides down low? Drawing out the top back is totally fine. If the compartments are not somehow interconnected with their airflow, you'd want at least a fan/vent arrangement per each compartment that would have high-heat generating equipment. Might be harder to do, but sharing the compartments somehow with vents or holes could help as well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
Having vents on the front wont work with the cupboard finish. Vents underneath wont work as the cupboard is flat to the floor. After doing a bit more reading on here it sounds like a perforated or slated shelf for the UST to sit on would again help allowing the device to cool its self more efficiently.

Yeah, front vents not too much of an issue, but are you sure about the bottom? I see you can get various types of feet for that model - maybe consider getting it even a small bit off of the floor, and venting the bottom. If not, definitely vent at the sides, wit maybe some front bias in there to assist with cross flow. Vented/perforated shelves for sure. I use vented shelves under every A/V component in my cabinet.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
The cupboard I am using is one of the besta rage. I will have 3 of these connected to form a credenza. I plan to take the centre partition out of the middle one and add at least 1 shelf to house AV equipment. Shelf height will be dependant on how high above the unit the UST projects its image. Obviously going to modify the top to allow the image to be projected. Plan to use AV glass across the top (hopefully recessed) into a 20mm solid worktop that will cover all 3 units.
Sounds good. Check these out too - look at their A/V units as well as their accessories, might give you some ideas on how to proceed with a design:

https://www.salamanderdesigns.com/us...ctor-cabinets/

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #5 of 13 Old 05-01-2020, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Top man, many thanks.

I will try to update this with my build as I go... and inevitably come crawling for advice when I screw it up...!! The cabinets wont arrive until the end of the month so I have some time...

I did manage to find a 12v 2 fan PWM controller on Amazon. This in theory would make way more sense than doubling up the connections on a single PWM controller. It also has 2 thermistors so will monitor the temp of both levels of the unit. I will probably end up doubling up both to get a 4 fan set up (ordered 5 more 4 pin fans).

2 Way Cooling PWM 4 Wire Fan Temperature Controller With Temperature Speed Display And Alarm Function
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B079126RF8/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_-jfREbS2ZNQKA
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post #6 of 13 Old 05-01-2020, 11:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
Top man, many thanks.

I will try to update this with my build as I go... and inevitably come crawling for advice when I screw it up...!! The cabinets wont arrive until the end of the month so I have some time...

I did manage to find a 12v 2 fan PWM controller on Amazon. This in theory would make way more sense than doubling up the connections on a single PWM controller. It also has 2 thermistors so will monitor the temp of both levels of the unit. I will probably end up doubling up both to get a 4 fan set up (ordered 5 more 4 pin fans).

2 Way Cooling PWM 4 Wire Fan Temperature Controller With Temperature Speed Display And Alarm Function
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07912..._-jfREbS2ZNQKA

Definitely, I'll be interested to see how it all turns out! I like the idea of a single two fan controller with two probes.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #7 of 13 Old 05-05-2020, 02:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Right I have all the bits..... just need the cabinets to show up so I can start caving them up.....

One thing I would like some input on is what wire to use between the green adapter and the power points on the circuit board...

Other option is to simply cut the end off the power cord and connect it straight to the board...

Opinions and suggestions very welcome.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonas2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
Top man, many thanks.

I will try to update this with my build as I go... and inevitably come crawling for advice when I screw it up...!! The cabinets wont arrive until the end of the month so I have some time...

I did manage to find a 12v 2 fan PWM controller on Amazon. This in theory would make way more sense than doubling up the connections on a single PWM controller. It also has 2 thermistors so will monitor the temp of both levels of the unit. I will probably end up doubling up both to get a 4 fan set up (ordered 5 more 4 pin fans).

2 Way Cooling PWM 4 Wire Fan Temperature Controller With Temperature Speed Display And Alarm Function
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07912..._-jfREbS2ZNQKA

Definitely, I'll be interested to see how it all turns out! I like the idea of a single two fan controller with two probes. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
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post #8 of 13 Old 05-06-2020, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
Right I have all the bits..... just need the cabinets to show up so I can start caving them up.....

One thing I would like some input on is what wire to use between the green adapter and the power points on the circuit board...

Other option is to simply cut the end off the power cord and connect it straight to the board...

Opinions and suggestions very welcome.

Not sure why, but the pics don't load for me. This happens a lot (to me at least) on this forum. I can only see the tiny thumb nails! Parts didn't come with any info / advice on how to wire things?What exactly is that green adapter doing - just getting a wall plug to the board?

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #9 of 13 Old 05-06-2020, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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So the green adaptor was to change the USB 5v -9v/12v adaptor to two pin... I'm thinking it's not necessarily needed but it does stop me needing void the adaptors warranty if I just use wire from the green 2 pin adapter to the power ports on the circuit board.

Any recommendations on what wire to use between the two power connections would be fantastic.
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post #10 of 13 Old 05-07-2020, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Yido View Post
So the green adaptor was to change the USB 5v -9v/12v adaptor to two pin... I'm thinking it's not necessarily needed but it does stop me needing void the adaptors warranty if I just use wire from the green 2 pin adapter to the power ports on the circuit board.

Any recommendations on what wire to use between the two power connections would be fantastic.

Still not certain I completely follow, but if it's coming out the wall, I'd use min. 14AWG, safety rated (or metric equivalent, not sure off the top of my head what that is...). Otherwise, wires for these applications tend to be lighter duty, probably 18 to 20AWG. Anything electrical though, I'd rely on the manufacturer's recommendations, and in absence of that, I'd just verify anything with an electrical or component specialist that what you are doing is proper. I know it's a simple thing, and if I had everything in front of me, or I could see the pictures, might be able to give a better answer, sorry! But given it's electrical, take my advice as a non-professional, opinion only.

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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post #11 of 13 Old 05-08-2020, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Sooooo it works....

I used a spare USB cable to wire it together and it seems to be working a treat. I reasoned that as its powered by USB the cable should be fine.

My issue now is working out how to programme it so that it comes on at a certain temp and ramps up accordingly.

The fans are currently constantly on and that isn't what I wanted. I wanted them to come on at say, 25 degrees and ramp up as the temp in the cabinet increases.

They do respond to hot and cold and speed up accordingly (hence the ice tray and cup of coffee). I also dont know if they are spinning fast enough even when I get the thermistor up to around 65°C.

Again any help or comments greatly appreciated.
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post #12 of 13 Old 05-08-2020, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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I forgot to add the pics....

Green power adaptor wired onto the board using USB cable as the connector.

USB power cable set to 12v to power the fans/thermistors/PWM

The entire set up with 2 x pairs of fans both working independently off their own thermistor. One being heated by my morning coffee the other cooled by this evenings ice cubes for my gin. This allowed me to see the fans working as required in relation to the thermistors input.

Not sure what "bof" and "bon" means but it's part of the settings... any help on this one would be appreciated... in fact if anyone has knowledge of how to programme these PWMs or where to find the info I'd greatly appreciate the help.

I'd like the fans to be off until the temp reached maybe 25°C and then ramp up to full power if the cabinet got anywhere near 35/40°C

Thanks in advance.
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post #13 of 13 Old 05-08-2020, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yido View Post
I forgot to add the pics....

Green power adaptor wired onto the board using USB cable as the connector.

USB power cable set to 12v to power the fans/thermistors/PWM

The entire set up with 2 x pairs of fans both working independently off their own thermistor. One being heated by my morning coffee the other cooled by this evenings ice cubes for my gin. This allowed me to see the fans working as required in relation to the thermistors input.

Not sure what "bof" and "bon" means but it's part of the settings... any help on this one would be appreciated... in fact if anyone has knowledge of how to programme these PWMs or where to find the info I'd greatly appreciate the help.

I'd like the fans to be off until the temp reached maybe 25°C and then ramp up to full power if the cabinet got anywhere near 35/40°C

Thanks in advance.
I still can't enlarge the pics. Oh well! Anyway, check out this link - this should help you program it, and it explains bon and bof. Scroll down to settings description:

https://boggleup.com/products/zhiyu-...-speed-display

7.2.4 System: Display: Sony XBR-65X930D; Processing: Anthem AVM60
Mains:
Paradigm Prestige 85F and 55C; Side / Rear Surrounds: Totem Acoustic Tribe III / Tribe I; Amplification: D-Sonic M3a-2800-7 (7ch. x 400w)
ATMOS:
Definitive Technology DI8R; Amplification: Class D Audio SDS-470C (4ch. x 300w)
Subwoofers:
2 x SVS-SB13Ultras; Media: Oppo UDP-203, Pioneer CLD-59
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