Any experience with the Monoprice 6 Zone Home Audio Multizone Controller? - Page 21 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #601 of 688 Old 06-11-2018, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by thmsx View Post
I'm currently in the process of setting this unit up. Do you guys have suggestions for the speakers? I'm only using 4 of the zones right now.

Garage, Family Room, Dining Room and Patio. I was thinking of getting monoprice speakers, but they have so many lines . Do you guys have any suggestions? They have a 25% sale today too.

I purchased a pair of the Alpha 6.5 inch and I thought they sounded descent. I am going to pick more up today with the sale.
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post #602 of 688 Old 06-11-2018, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by thmsx View Post
I'm currently in the process of setting this unit up. Do you guys have suggestions for the speakers? I'm only using 4 of the zones right now.

Garage, Family Room, Dining Room and Patio. I was thinking of getting monoprice speakers, but they have so many lines . Do you guys have any suggestions? They have a 25% sale today too.
check out outdoor speaker depot dot com...

they got some great in ceiling speakers for the price....

i like them better than the monoprice ones, but they are a bit more expensive....
osd does have a 10 percent off coupon going on right now i think.... SPRING18
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post #603 of 688 Old 06-14-2018, 11:51 AM
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I just got my Monoprice amp and I'm attempting to control it through Monoamp 4.1.00. I have not had any luck getting it up and working. I did use putty and was able to send some commands to the amp so I know my serial cable and the port on the amp are working but I have had no success using your program. I have the service setup and the serial port connected but when I run the mixer I have no control I've tried this on both a windows 7 and windows 10 pc with not luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-Adam
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post #604 of 688 Old 06-15-2018, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thmsx View Post
I'm currently in the process of setting this unit up. Do you guys have suggestions for the speakers? I'm only using 4 of the zones right now.



Garage, Family Room, Dining Room and Patio. I was thinking of getting monoprice speakers, but they have so many lines . Do you guys have any suggestions? They have a 25% sale today too.


HTD Speakers work very well for the money.


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post #605 of 688 Old 06-16-2018, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Kris_Carter View Post
Hey all, been reading on here for a while now and finally picked up a Monoprice 6 zone unit. We are in the process of building a new home and I have been pre-wiring up everything.

My question is sort of specific. I have a TV in my bedroom with a couple of ceiling speakers hooked to the WHA. My question is I would like to use these speakers over the bed for both Whole home audio (chromecast audio input etc.) also also switch to use my TV as an input and come out of the speakers by choosing a different input on the keypad.

My question is: would there be a delay in the sound (as in synching the lips to the voice) from using the TV as an input. I have already run cat6 runs from my tv back to the server closet so I could use it as an input. (Cat6 to RCA)

I would like to do this in a couple other areas as well. (broadcast the game from my porch TV to the speakers in the back yard)

Thoughts on this? Really excited to get this unit up and running. If you all have any suggestions as I am pre-wiring of things you wish you would have done. I am all ears....
I did exactly this.

I have a 1/8 headphone audio out from my TV in the kitchen that runs over cat 6 to the basement where the monoprice amp is. I then choose the source for it on the keypad. No delay whatsoever. Works great and you can use that audio from the TV anywhere else in the house that has a keypad.
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post #606 of 688 Old 06-18-2018, 01:33 PM
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So I have a few questions about this unit since the documentation is either deliberately misleading or deliberately crap. Here's what I *want* to do:

1. Three zones
2. All channels bridged
3. Three sources
4. Each source will be an optical --> Analogue output from three different TVs.
5. Use the pre-outs to connect three different plate amps for a sub in each zone.

Is this possible? There's no clear information on how the amp handles bridging in terms of grouping and how the pre-outs work once bridged.

Once all channels are bridged, are they grouped like this?

Zone 1, left channel
Zone 2, right channel
Zone 3, left channel
Zone 4, right channel
Zone 5, left channel
Zone 6, right channel

When bridged, how do the pre-outs operate? In a similar way?

Zone 1, only left pre-out works
Zone 2, only right pre-out works
Zone 3, only left pre-out works
Zone 4, only right pre-out works
Zone 5, only left pre-out works
Zone 6, only right pre-out works

When bridged, how do the keypads work?

Keypad 1, controls zone 1/2 simultaneously
Keypad 2, controls zone 3/4 simultaneously
Keypad 3, controls zone 5/6 simultaneously

I'm presuming full range is sent to the speaker outs and the pre-outs? Are the pre-outs variable? Sorry for the barrage of questions and if they've been answered already, there's so much misleading or difficult information to find.
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post #607 of 688 Old 06-19-2018, 06:11 AM
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LondonBenji, if the monoprice supports bridging, then that is usually done within the amplifier, not at the pre-amp (low level) output.
So, Zone 1 would be Left AND Right channel. These two low level outputs are then summed (either with a Y cable, or internally via a switch) to the amplifier. Then, typically you would wire the speaker to the Plus of one zone channel (Left) to the Minus of the same zone, other channel for the bridging (Right). I would double check that the monoprice even supports bridging BEFORE wiring it this way (so you don't let any smoke out).

Certainly you could bridge an external amp (that supports bridging). Left and Right matrix low level outputs to external amp low level inputs, and the external amp is then setup in bridge mode.

Once you have this setup correctly, then the keypads work the way a non bridged system works, since the switching is all done on the Low level side (that is wired conventionally Left AND Right channels per zone).

I have not bridged a monoprice matrix so the above is just theory based on experience with other amps / matrix's.

EDIT: from monoprice website:
"Each output channel features an amplifier that is capable of delivering 50 watts/channel into a 4-ohm load or 25 watts/channel into an 8-ohm load. Each amplifier can be individually bridged to produce 100 watts into an 8-ohm load. "
So, at least that product 10761 is capable of the AMPLIFIER being bridged. This confirms that the bridging is done not at the low level, but at the amplifier outputs. And looking at the owner's manual, there is a switch to setup in bridge mode, and a picture of the backside of the amp seems to show that you wire the speakers as I have indicated above (Plus Channel Left, and Minus Channel Right - but look at your amp for specifics).
Most all low level outputs are "variable". That's so the volume can be controlled of external amps.
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post #608 of 688 Old 06-19-2018, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by smoothtlk View Post
LondonBenji, if the monoprice supports bridging, then that is usually done within the amplifier, not at the pre-amp (low level) output.
So, Zone 1 would be Left AND Right channel. These two low level outputs are then summed (either with a Y cable, or internally via a switch) to the amplifier. Then, typically you would wire the speaker to the Plus of one zone channel (Left) to the Minus of the same zone, other channel for the bridging (Right). I would double check that the monoprice even supports bridging BEFORE wiring it this way (so you don't let any smoke out).

Certainly you could bridge an external amp (that supports bridging). Left and Right matrix low level outputs to external amp low level inputs, and the external amp is then setup in bridge mode.

Once you have this setup correctly, then the keypads work the way a non bridged system works, since the switching is all done on the Low level side (that is wired conventionally Left AND Right channels per zone).

I have not bridged a monoprice matrix so the above is just theory based on experience with other amps / matrix's.

EDIT: from monoprice website:
"Each output channel features an amplifier that is capable of delivering 50 watts/channel into a 4-ohm load or 25 watts/channel into an 8-ohm load. Each amplifier can be individually bridged to produce 100 watts into an 8-ohm load. "
So, at least that product 10761 is capable of the AMPLIFIER being bridged. This confirms that the bridging is done not at the low level, but at the amplifier outputs. And looking at the owner's manual, there is a switch to setup in bridge mode, and a picture of the backside of the amp seems to show that you wire the speakers as I have indicated above (Plus Channel Left, and Minus Channel Right - but look at your amp for specifics).
Most all low level outputs are "variable". That's so the volume can be controlled of external amps.
So each bridged zone would just be a summed output of both the left and right input from the source? Then there would be no way of having stereo bridged output by using two bridged zones. Definitely a show stopper if that's the case but there's absolutely no documentation around how it works when bridging.

You would have thought/hoped that when set to bridged mode that the input to the bridged amp is only sourced from either the left or the right channel, hence why I was wondering if odd number zones become the left channel and even number zones become the right channel or something.

The Monoprice 6 zone amp seems to be built to a budget with a lot of caveats, I'm looking at the HTD Lync6 which is likely to end up about five times the price but it *looks* like it has the flexibility and pretty cool keypads.
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post #609 of 688 Old 06-19-2018, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by LondonBenji View Post
So each bridged zone would just be a summed output of both the left and right input from the source? Then there would be no way of having stereo bridged output by using two bridged zones. Definitely a show stopper if that's the case but there's absolutely no documentation around how it works when bridging.

You would have thought/hoped that when set to bridged mode that the input to the bridged amp is only sourced from either the left or the right channel, hence why I was wondering if odd number zones become the left channel and even number zones become the right channel or something.

The Monoprice 6 zone amp seems to be built to a budget with a lot of caveats, I'm looking at the HTD Lync6 which is likely to end up about five times the price but it *looks* like it has the flexibility and pretty cool keypads.
why do you really "need" keypads when everything nowadays can be controlled by a phone or tablet, anywhere in the house?
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post #610 of 688 Old 06-19-2018, 06:51 PM
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why do you really "need" keypads when everything nowadays can be controlled by a phone or tablet, anywhere in the house?
Ease of use, quick, much higher partner approval factor. There's a reason why TV remotes still exist but I'm interested in alternatives, I guess I can just put a stereo amp in each zone, Chromecast connected to the TV and the TV connected to the amp, that way you can just cast whatever video/audio you want to the Chromecast in the specific zone with a tablet mounted to the wall maybe.

Are there any stereo amps with a sub output?
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post #611 of 688 Old 06-19-2018, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by hermit005 View Post
I just got my Monoprice amp and I'm attempting to control it through Monoamp 4.1.00. I have not had any luck getting it up and working. I did use putty and was able to send some commands to the amp so I know my serial cable and the port on the amp are working but I have had no success using your program. I have the service setup and the serial port connected but when I run the mixer I have no control I've tried this on both a windows 7 and windows 10 pc with not luck. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

-Adam
Hi Adam,

Not sure why the trouble - I've had very little complaints with the service\app.
Not sure what OS your on but email me and we will work through it.

Also is this a 4 or 6 zone amp?

Regards,
Mike Pisano

Last edited by mpisano; 06-19-2018 at 09:19 PM.
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post #612 of 688 Old 06-22-2018, 06:37 AM
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Android App Available Now

I have written an android app that can control these amps now in case anyone is interested. I published the first version last night and will be doing updates to make the tablet views look different. If anyone uses it and has feedback let me know.
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post #613 of 688 Old 06-27-2018, 09:47 AM
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I am trying to wire 4 speakers that are 8 ohms each to one zone and just wanted to see if this is the correct way to run them in parallel. I'm second guessing myself mainly because I don't want to ruin the amp and secondly I'm not sure if both the wires going into the sockets (+) and (-) would fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
JD
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post #614 of 688 Old 06-27-2018, 10:17 AM
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I am trying to wire 4 speakers that are 8 ohms each to one zone and just wanted to see if this is the correct way to run them in parallel. I'm second guessing myself mainly because I don't want to ruin the amp and secondly I'm not sure if both the wires going into the sockets (+) and (-) would fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
JD
yes, that is correct
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post #615 of 688 Old 06-27-2018, 12:56 PM
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yes, that is correct


I’ll be installing one of these soon, with the question above, I’m confused.

I thought you could wire each channel in series resulting in a 4ohm load on each channel??




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post #616 of 688 Old 06-27-2018, 02:00 PM
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I am trying to wire 4 speakers that are 8 ohms each to one zone and just wanted to see if this is the correct way to run them in parallel. I'm second guessing myself mainly because I don't want to ruin the amp and secondly I'm not sure if both the wires going into the sockets (+) and (-) would fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
JD
Regarding if the wires will fit, i used 12ga wire and i almost couldn't get it to fit. So if you combine them and they are thicker than 12ga then it wont work.
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post #617 of 688 Old 06-28-2018, 08:16 AM
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Thank you both for answering my question.

121940kz
I have 14ga wire so I should be fine. By the way watching your videos on youtube was the reason I ended up buying this unit. Looking forward to your DIY on the raspberry pi to use instead of the iTach flex. Thanks again!
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post #618 of 688 Old 06-29-2018, 01:46 PM
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Thank you both for answering my question.

121940kz
I have 14ga wire so I should be fine. By the way watching your videos on youtube was the reason I ended up buying this unit. Looking forward to your DIY on the raspberry pi to use instead of the iTach flex. Thanks again!
No problem thanks for watching! I'm trying to plan out more content and get more active on there. Upcoming videos will be the raspberry pi method when i get that finished and release the app update to support that. Then i will be doing an overview on the Insteon lighting automation that i did in the smart home. And any other user requested videos.

I actually am thinking of doing a giveaway on my channel (never done one before). I have an iTach WF2SL that i wouldn't mind giving away to someone that has one of these amps and doesn't currently have a way to control them. I have a WF2SL that i am testing with my app, but probably wont need it soon.
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I have written an android app that can control these amps now in case anyone is interested. I published the first version last night and will be doing updates to make the tablet views look different. If anyone uses it and has feedback let me know.
I know you mentioned having it work on a Raspberry Pi. I would defiantly be interested in it then.

Thanks,

-Adam
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I wanted to give a huge shout out to Mike for all the help troubleshooting my issues with MonoAmp. He was extremely helpful and we got it figure out quickly. Now for another question. I heard some people got MonoAmp running on a Raspberry Pi. I have a few setup questions. First what version of Linux is needed or does it really matter? I was able to get it installed and have mono up and running and am able to run AmpLoader.exe through mono. My main question is how do I configure it to use the right usb port in Linux. Right now it keeps trying to use the com port 5 it was on windows. Maybe I'm completely doing this wrong. I'm definitely no expert just trying to figure my way through it. Thanks for any help you guys can provide.

-Adam
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post #621 of 688 Old 06-29-2018, 04:22 PM
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I know you mentioned having it work on a Raspberry Pi. I would defiantly be interested in it then.

Thanks,

-Adam
I have it mostly working right now using the raspberry pi, i just need to finish/fix some aspects of it and it'll be ready. But i will be sure to report back as soon as it's 100% operational and supported in the app.
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post #622 of 688 Old 06-29-2018, 06:58 PM
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No problem thanks for watching! I'm trying to plan out more content and get more active on there. Upcoming videos will be the raspberry pi method when i get that finished and release the app update to support that. Then i will be doing an overview on the Insteon lighting automation that i did in the smart home. And any other user requested videos.

I actually am thinking of doing a giveaway on my channel (never done one before). I have an iTach WF2SL that i wouldn't mind giving away to someone that has one of these amps and doesn't currently have a way to control them. I have a WF2SL that i am testing with my app, but probably wont need it soon.
That's awesome! Looking forward to the upcoming videos!
I have a raspberry pi 2 that I have laying around, that's why I'm interested in that method. Would that work?
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post #623 of 688 Old 06-29-2018, 07:31 PM
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That's awesome! Looking forward to the upcoming videos!
I have a raspberry pi 2 that I have laying around, that's why I'm interested in that method. Would that work?
You can use any raspberry pi/mini computer that can run a python script and be on the network. I like the rapsberry pi 3 because it has the on board wifi and doesn't need to be physically connected to Ethernet. But yep all other models would work.

Also you need a USB to serial cable, those are about $8 on Amazon. Make sure to get one that has the thumb screws on the end, and not the hex nuts. I wasn't paying attention and bought one with the hex nuts and it doesn't fit because the amp has the hex nuts too. I ended up just cutting them off of my serial cable lol
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post #624 of 688 Old 06-30-2018, 09:35 AM
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You can use any raspberry pi/mini computer that can run a python script and be on the network. I like the rapsberry pi 3 because it has the on board wifi and doesn't need to be physically connected to Ethernet. But yep all other models would work.

Also you need a USB to serial cable, those are about $8 on Amazon. Make sure to get one that has the thumb screws on the end, and not the hex nuts. I wasn't paying attention and bought one with the hex nuts and it doesn't fit because the amp has the hex nuts too. I ended up just cutting them off of my serial cable lol
Ok, sounds good. I will make sure to get the right one. Thanks again for all the help! Can't wait to be able to control the amp remotely!
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post #625 of 688 Old 07-03-2018, 08:01 AM
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Ok, sounds good. I will make sure to get the right one. Thanks again for all the help! Can't wait to be able to control the amp remotely!
I've got the python script up on my github. https://github.com/121940kz/Monopric...erry-Pi-Server

If you run through these instructions and come across any issues let me know. I typed most of this up late last night and haven't run through them again on my own from scratch so there is a possibility of something not working or not being clear. Let me know how it goes. I haven't released the app update yet to support the Pi, but i will probably do that end of this week. I am just finalizing some things and need to make sure i haven't broken anything on the iTach flex side still.
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I've got the python script up on my github.

If you run through these instructions and come across any issues let me know. I typed most of this up late last night and haven't run through them again on my own from scratch so there is a possibility of something not working or not being clear. Let me know how it goes. I haven't released the app update yet to support the Pi, but i will probably do that end of this week. I am just finalizing some things and need to make sure i haven't broken anything on the iTach flex side still.
Finally got some time to look at it and looks like I'm going to have to bite the bullet to get the iTach flex. Was reading the readme and saw you had to use android app. I don't have any android devices. Keep up the videos! Thanks again
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post #627 of 688 Old 07-18-2018, 05:00 PM
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I have written an android app that can control these amps now in case anyone is interested. I published the first version last night and will be doing updates to make the tablet views look different. If anyone uses it and has feedback let me know.
Hi! I will set up my new Monoprice amp this weekend and would love to control it from a phone. The problem is that my wife has iPhone and I have Android. Is there a way to control the receiver from both phones simultaneously or do we have to decide on either android vs iphone?

I also read a lot about the raspberry pi. Are those running a web server with web interface, that way the web site could be opened on either device via local ip or domain name? Or is the raspberry pi just used to bridge the phone apps to the serial commands into the amp?
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Hi! I will set up my new Monoprice amp this weekend and would love to control it from a phone. The problem is that my wife has iPhone and I have Android. Is there a way to control the receiver from both phones simultaneously or do we have to decide on either android vs iphone?

I also read a lot about the raspberry pi. Are those running a web server with web interface, that way the web site could be opened on either device via local ip or domain name? Or is the raspberry pi just used to bridge the phone apps to the serial commands into the amp?
Yes you can control it with both the iphone and android app, but you will have to use the iTach flex. The iphone app only works with the itach flex. I still have not published the update yet to support the raspberry pi, because i've been busy with some other things and it's not yet that stable (still have to fix some things). But it will get release sooner or later.



My wife uses her iphone and i use my android phone
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Originally Posted by 121940kz View Post
Yes you can control it with both the iphone and android app, but you will have to use the iTach flex. The iphone app only works with the itach flex. I still have not published the update yet to support the raspberry pi, because i've been busy with some other things and it's not yet that stable (still have to fix some things). But it will get release sooner or later.



My wife uses her iphone and i use my android phone
ok thanks! is there also a possibility for automation? One of the sources for my Monoprice is my Denon AVR. I would ideally like to program my own interface or use some smart home system to program a sequence that will turn on both amplifiers and set the Monoprice input to the Denon AVR, all with one click. Is something like that possible with your interface? That was another reason why I was hoping for the web interface, it would allow me to easily send commands from any other smart home automation system.
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post #630 of 688 Old 07-18-2018, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rhawke View Post
ok thanks! is there also a possibility for automation? One of the sources for my Monoprice is my Denon AVR. I would ideally like to program my own interface or use some smart home system to program a sequence that will turn on both amplifiers and set the Monoprice input to the Denon AVR, all with one click. Is something like that possible with your interface? That was another reason why I was hoping for the web interface, it would allow me to easily send commands from any other smart home automation system.
For now i would probably say that is not in scope for my app. It would be kind of hard to build in all of these other external devices to control when i dont own all of them, and i don't know how they can remotely be controlled. My app also does not have a web interface, at this point is it just the android app.
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