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post #1 of 33 Old 08-22-2019, 07:26 PM - Thread Starter
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New Construction Pre Wire Questions

Hi,

First, let me say I’ve been lurking for quite awhile and found a ton of good info from other’s posts. We are building a new construction home and those posts helped be do my initial wiring plan with my low voltage company.

I plan to have a dedicated 5'x4’ AV closet with a 42u rack. The rack won’t be full out of the gate but will allow for expansion. The room will have two dedicated 20A circuits with two outlets each (4 total). Initially, I don’t plan to subscribe to any home automation (Control4 or Savant), but want to leave myself options down the road. I know "future proofing" is a tough phase to use in this space, but I’m trying to do what I can.

General points
- Two story new construction on a slab
- We use Amazon Fire, AppleTV, Roku devices for streaming
- Plex media server from old Mac mini
- We will watch Blu Ray in the media room
- Enjoy listening to music via iTunes library or Apple Music
- Both my wife and I work from home
- Have lots of ''smart'' devices in our current home, but plan to rethink. If we don't do home automation, I would love to move all to HomeKit since we're a big Apple family.
- Thermostat, locks, cameras, smoke detector, lights, etc

Pre-wire Overview:
- 3 CAT6E and 1RJ6 to each TV area
- 4 WAP’s with CAT6E
- Dedicated media room pre-wired for in wall dolby atoms 7.1.4
- Conduit run from project to AV closet
- 1st floor living room wired for in wall 3.1 audio
- 6 rooms with in ceiling speaker wiring
- Cat6E runs for ceiling speaker wall switches
- Prewired security on all widows and doors + 3 keypads
- 8 POE security cameras with NVR

Questions:

I won’t be able to utilize HDBaseT distribution using multiple sources through a receiver in the AV closet without a matrix, right? I can’t simply use the receiver inputs to control the different sources and run the receiver output through a HDBaseT?

Can I power the TV speakers in the 1st floor living room via a receiver in the AV closet? Maybe use a IR blaster..

Same question about whole home audio speakers from a receiver in AV closet with a dedicated 6 channel amp?

I can’t find much on CAT6E. I’ve read CAT6 will support 10GB in runs less than ~50 meters. Is this an OK solution since my drops should all be less than 100ft?


I’d appreciate any feedback on additional thoughts on the project. Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 33 Old 08-24-2019, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by cks30 View Post
Hi,



First, let me say I’ve been lurking for quite awhile and found a ton of good info from other’s posts. We are building a new construction home and those posts helped be do my initial wiring plan with my low voltage company.



I plan to have a dedicated 5'x4’ AV closet with a 42u rack. The rack won’t be full out of the gate but will allow for expansion. The room will have two dedicated 20A circuits with two outlets each (4 total). Initially, I don’t plan to subscribe to any home automation (Control4 or Savant), but want to leave myself options down the road. I know "future proofing" is a tough phase to use in this space, but I’m trying to do what I can.



General points

- Two story new construction on a slab

- We use Amazon Fire, AppleTV, Roku devices for streaming

- Plex media server from old Mac mini

- We will watch Blu Ray in the media room

- Enjoy listening to music via iTunes library or Apple Music

- Both my wife and I work from home

- Have lots of ''smart'' devices in our current home, but plan to rethink. If we don't do home automation, I would love to move all to HomeKit since we're a big Apple family.

- Thermostat, locks, cameras, smoke detector, lights, etc



Pre-wire Overview:

- 3 CAT6E and 1RJ6 to each TV area

- 4 WAP’s with CAT6E

- Dedicated media room pre-wired for in wall dolby atoms 7.1.4

- Conduit run from project to AV closet

- 1st floor living room wired for in wall 3.1 audio

- 6 rooms with in ceiling speaker wiring

- Cat6E runs for ceiling speaker wall switches

- Prewired security on all widows and doors + 3 keypads

- 8 POE security cameras with NVR



Questions:



I won’t be able to utilize HDBaseT distribution using multiple sources through a receiver in the AV closet without a matrix, right? I can’t simply use the receiver inputs to control the different sources and run the receiver output through a HDBaseT?



Can I power the TV speakers in the 1st floor living room via a receiver in the AV closet? Maybe use a IR blaster..



Same question about whole home audio speakers from a receiver in AV closet with a dedicated 6 channel amp?



I can’t find much on CAT6E. I’ve read CAT6 will support 10GB in runs less than ~50 meters. Is this an OK solution since my drops should all be less than 100ft?





I’d appreciate any feedback on additional thoughts on the project. Thanks in advance.

You have a good wiring plan. Make sure you have the equipment and control system plan in place before, because it dictates your wiring plan.

A receiver is multiple HDMI input and unusually single output. Some fancy receivers have 2nd zone HDMI output. A matrix is multiple HDMI inputs and multiple HDMI outputs, for example 4x4. Using a single receiver to output to a HDBaseT wouldn’t allow multiple sources to be played in different rooms, only the same source.

You can uses a separate AVR to run the living room remotely. But will need a remote control RF based solution. More common now a days is to use a sound bar below the TV. Sonos has solution to have sound bar and Sonos Amp for rear speakers.

Yes you could use multi-channel amps to power your speakers, but keep in mind each zone will need volume control. Then your source player(s) would connect to the amp. Now a days people are using systems like Sonos amps, Denon Heos, Nuvo and others to accomplish players/amp combos without wall volume controls.

Cat6 will be fine. Just make sure every part In your cat6 run is rated for Cat6 Gig Ethernet.


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post #3 of 33 Old 08-24-2019, 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stevestms View Post
You have a good wiring plan. Make sure you have the equipment and control system plan in place before, because it dictates your wiring plan.

A receiver is multiple HDMI input and unusually single output. Some fancy receivers have 2nd zone HDMI output. A matrix is multiple HDMI inputs and multiple HDMI outputs, for example 4x4. Using a single receiver to output to a HDBaseT wouldn’t allow multiple sources to be played in different rooms, only the same source.

You can uses a separate AVR to run the living room remotely. But will need a remote control RF based solution. More common now a days is to use a sound bar below the TV. Sonos has solution to have sound bar and Sonos Amp for rear speakers.

Yes you could use multi-channel amps to power your speakers, but keep in mind each zone will need volume control. Then your source player(s) would connect to the amp. Now a days people are using systems like Sonos amps, Denon Heos, Nuvo and others to accomplish players/amp combos without wall volume controls.

Cat6 will be fine. Just make sure every part In your cat6 run is rated for Cat6 Gig Ethernet.


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I am itching to address standards even though I am not an expert and lack clarity.

EIA standards are now managed by the Electronic Components Association (ECA). TIA (Telecommunications Industry Association) — Best known for developing cabling standards with the EIA, the TIA is the leading trade association for the information, communications, and entertainment technology industry.Jun 5, 2013

There are ratified standards for cat 6 and cat 6a. I have installed cat6a because it is recommended for SDVoE an evolving ethernet using internet protocol which may replace HDMI-or not. But cat6a can be used for your Ethernet LAN. There are agreed standard for the now dated cat5e but none for cat 6e.

The whole category cable system gets a little wonky because while you can find category 7 cable TIA/EIA have not ratified standards. Many types of cable claim the capability to handle 10GBPS but it is not clear if that is a base or a ceiling.

On top of these issues are the problems of length, particularly for HDMI cables. The shorter, about 6-10 feet, the more reliable and the more likely you can use passive HDMI. Hybrid fiber cables which can be active meaning they have a powered chip are used for longer HDMI cables.

All I really wanted to do was steer you toward cat6a which is better shielded against cross talk and faster and can be grounded. But listen to the advice of others.

Anál nathrach, orth’ bháis’s bethad, do chél dénmha
Display: LG OLED 65e6p, Player: OPPO UDP-203, AVR:Yamaha TSR 7810, Streaming: Comcast 60Mbps RG6 to Cat6a, Speakers: Mains Vandersteen IIC, Center, Surrounds, Rears Klipsch

Last edited by Postmoderndesign; 09-24-2019 at 06:43 AM.
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post #4 of 33 Old 08-27-2019, 11:20 AM
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Be aware of rooms which are stereo vs. surround sound and that the lowest common denominator goes into effect for everything. So, if one of the connected displays is stereo only, then you won't have any surround sound on your sources if using a matrix. Depending, of course, on the matrix that you use. This may not be a bad thing.

I ended up putting stereo speakers in every room in my home to keep things consistent, but you can certainly pass audio through to televisions and use their internal speakers in rooms as you would like to. This works, as long as your entire matrix is setup and based on a stereo setup. Then you have to consider the distribution points.

Yes, if you only have a couple of displays, you can often just use the receiver, if it has multiple zones, to feed the displays using HDBT extenders. But, once again, the lowest denominator in terms of quality will apply, so care must be taken.

I use an entirely 1080p setup in my home except for my theater which has a 4K projector. So, I have some dedicated theater sources as well as a feed from my matrix switcher for video and surround sound. The rest of my home is fed stereo, and I use sources with both stereo and surround outputs, or I use DSP downmixing cards on my matrix so I can keep surround sound and have a stereo feed for the in-room speakers. So, it's a lot of thought about the video and the audio for everything involved.

4K switchers with HDBT output have some issues with 4K/60 sources at 18Gb/s right now. But, some are dealing with it ($$$$) and there is a lot available in the 4K/30 market (10Gb/s) that you can get for less.

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post #5 of 33 Old 08-28-2019, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cks30 View Post
Hi,

First, let me say I’ve been lurking for quite awhile and found a ton of good info from other’s posts. We are building a new construction home and those posts helped be do my initial wiring plan with my low voltage company.

I plan to have a dedicated 5'x4’ AV closet with a 42u rack. The rack won’t be full out of the gate but will allow for expansion. The room will have two dedicated 20A circuits with two outlets each (4 total). Initially, I don’t plan to subscribe to any home automation (Control4 or Savant), but want to leave myself options down the road. I know "future proofing" is a tough phase to use in this space, but I’m trying to do what I can.

General points
- Two story new construction on a slab
- We use Amazon Fire, AppleTV, Roku devices for streaming
- Plex media server from old Mac mini
- We will watch Blu Ray in the media room
- Enjoy listening to music via iTunes library or Apple Music
- Both my wife and I work from home
- Have lots of ''smart'' devices in our current home, but plan to rethink. If we don't do home automation, I would love to move all to HomeKit since we're a big Apple family.
- Thermostat, locks, cameras, smoke detector, lights, etc

Pre-wire Overview:
- 3 CAT6E and 1RJ6 to each TV area
- 4 WAP’s with CAT6E
- Dedicated media room pre-wired for in wall dolby atoms 7.1.4
- Conduit run from project to AV closet
- 1st floor living room wired for in wall 3.1 audio
- 6 rooms with in ceiling speaker wiring
- Cat6E runs for ceiling speaker wall switches
- Prewired security on all widows and doors + 3 keypads
- 8 POE security cameras with NVR

Questions:

I won’t be able to utilize HDBaseT distribution using multiple sources through a receiver in the AV closet without a matrix, right? I can’t simply use the receiver inputs to control the different sources and run the receiver output through a HDBaseT?

Can I power the TV speakers in the 1st floor living room via a receiver in the AV closet? Maybe use a IR blaster..

Same question about whole home audio speakers from a receiver in AV closet with a dedicated 6 channel amp?

I can’t find much on CAT6E. I’ve read CAT6 will support 10GB in runs less than ~50 meters. Is this an OK solution since my drops should all be less than 100ft?


I’d appreciate any feedback on additional thoughts on the project. Thanks in advance.
Add a second sub in the theater. Place them either on the sides (halfway), or front and back (halfway).
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post #6 of 33 Old 08-29-2019, 10:05 AM
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Add a second sub in the theater. Place them either on the sides (halfway), or front and back (halfway).
I do agree that if you are going to prewire your theater, run coaxial cable to multiple locations for additional subwoofer connections in the future. I would run up to 4 connections, but at least two.

Also be aware that corner loading a subwoofer is not always the best policy as it can be 'boomy' in a room. Sometimes you want it 1/4 to 1/3 of the way along a wall for best audio.

Just something to keep in mind.

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post #7 of 33 Old 09-23-2019, 10:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Add a second sub in the theater. Place them either on the sides (halfway), or front and back (halfway).
Thank you. I plan to move my subs to the halfway point on each side.
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post #8 of 33 Old 09-23-2019, 10:12 PM - Thread Starter
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I do agree that if you are going to prewire your theater, run coaxial cable to multiple locations for additional subwoofer connections in the future. I would run up to 4 connections, but at least two.

Also be aware that corner loading a subwoofer is not always the best policy as it can be 'boomy' in a room. Sometimes you want it 1/4 to 1/3 of the way along a wall for best audio.

Just something to keep in mind.

Thank you - I plan to put my two subs on each side, but add an extra connection in the front and back of the room.
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post #9 of 33 Old 10-04-2019, 12:15 AM
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In the same boat, new construction trying to pre-wire, hope its ok to ask questions ( a lot) here, if not please advise...

All the controls are in the basement.
Pre-wiring for audio in all the rooms on first floor, second floor only to loft, master bed and bath.
Pre-wiring for cameras - planning on the new Ring POE cameras
Pre-wiring for Lutron Radio Ra2.
Ethernet to all control panels.
Ethernet points to all rooms. What is the best location to have this to support any future use?
1 USB port plug in each room. Do we need more?

1) For TV location wiring - power, cat and coaxial cables. Anything else needed?

2) For speaker locations (in-ceiling/in-wall) - speaker wire and cat, anything else?

3) 7.1.2 atmos mini home theater in first floor ( Until future Home Theater is done in the basement, when basement will be done): How high should the speaker wire be setup for left/right speakers and back speakers? do we need coaxial cables for subs here?

4) Great room audio, it is two-story, 17x22: 2 speakers or 4? with 2 subs. Do subs need coaxial cables?

5) Cat6 or Cat 7? would 7 be better to support future requirements/standards...

6) Speaker wire - 14 vs 12, would using 12 be better to support future requirements/standards...

7) Do we need to have lighting control panels in all rooms? If there are 3 switches in bedroom, can you just leave them as smart switches or should those be hidden and have a control panel?

8) Conduits: How many and where? Would these be expensive?
Based on reading seems like need conduit to attic is a good idea for future proofing, is that correct? If so how many? 1 or 2...
Should all the pre-wire to each room be done using conduits? Is that required or a nice to have?

9) Smart locks - what kind of pre-wiring is needed...

10) Door bells - what kind of pre-wiring is needed...

11) What kind of prewiring is need for motorized and controlled shades/curtains - do we need power and ethernet? is it a good idea to setup for most big windows even though I don't have an intension of doing it now...

12) Lastly - what is prewired security for windows, I do not know this...

Any thoughts greatly appreciated!
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post #10 of 33 Old 10-04-2019, 12:19 AM
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One more...
13) Do we need audio keypads on the wall or remotes/phone control would be sufficient...
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post #11 of 33 Old 10-04-2019, 10:46 AM
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I'll hit on a few of those randomly...

Cat 7 isn't really a standard and supports only 10gbs. Cat 6 also supports 10gbs speeds for reasonable distances (<100 ft) and is inexpensive and easy to install. Cat6a is a standard and supports 10gbs over longer runs if you need them, but is more expensive and and the shielding makes for a thicker harder to install cable.

Conduit is what makes you future proof, not 6a or 7 cable. I ran conduit from all data locations to nearby accessible attic spaces (even when I had easy access to the wall top/bottom plate from above or below, easier to pull a string later than drill a hole through framing), and from those attic spaces to a central attic space, then from there to equipment closet. The same approach can be done for a basement. You don't need continuous runs from every room to equipment closet, just a way to easily access segments where you can pull cable piecemeal. Continuous runs are going to cost more, be hard to physically accommodate all the conduit, and likely have several bends each making pulling cable harder. I opted for rigid 1.5" pvp with sweeping bends rather than the flexible Smurf tube as it was cheaper particularly for that large diameter. Smurf tube is easier to install. I used 3 runs from central attic space to equipment closet, 2 from local attic spaces to central one, and 1 from rooms to local attic spaces.

Leave conduits empty (except for pull cord). These are for future use. You don't want to have to pull a new cable through a conduit containing several others already.

Hidden dimmers with keypads vs normal visible dimmer locations is a personal choice. Hidden with a few keypads makes for a cleaner install. However, not easy to go back to normal wiring scheme in the future for whatever reason. And in my case, wife prefers "this switch is for that light" logic so I'm sticking with traditional wiring scheme and will replace a few key locations with a hybrid dimmer.

Ethernet to doorbell.

More than one cat drop to TV locations. I did 3 cat and 1 RG6, though I could make an argument for 4 cat plus coax, or 4 cat no coax, or even 3 cat and 2 coax. You could use a pair of coax for stereo audio return but a single Ethernet can do that too. Cat also useful for IR control signaling, HDMI distribution etc. Hard to know what you might wind up wanting to do down the road. Better to put the wire now while it's cheap (or have conduit to pull it later, or preferably both).
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post #12 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 05:40 AM
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Cat 6a is estimated to be 20-35% more expensive than cat 6 which for wiring a house may add one or two hundred dollars. If using 2 inch conduit pulling cat 6a is not a problem especially with a lubricant. Cat 6a adds to lifespan usefulness before needing to pull new cable.

Here is a 2019 decision tree:https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cabl.../cat6-vs-cat6a

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Display: LG OLED 65e6p, Player: OPPO UDP-203, AVR:Yamaha TSR 7810, Streaming: Comcast 60Mbps RG6 to Cat6a, Speakers: Mains Vandersteen IIC, Center, Surrounds, Rears Klipsch

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I'll hit on a few of those randomly...

Cat 7 isn't really a standard and supports only 10gbs. Cat 6 also supports 10gbs speeds for reasonable distances (<100 ft) and is inexpensive and easy to install. Cat6a is a standard and supports 10gbs over longer runs if you need them, but is more expensive and and the shielding makes for a thicker harder to install cable.

Conduit is what makes you future proof, not 6a or 7 cable. I ran conduit from all data locations to nearby accessible attic spaces (even when I had easy access to the wall top/bottom plate from above or below, easier to pull a string later than drill a hole through framing), and from those attic spaces to a central attic space, then from there to equipment closet. The same approach can be done for a basement. You don't need continuous runs from every room to equipment closet, just a way to easily access segments where you can pull cable piecemeal. Continuous runs are going to cost more, be hard to physically accommodate all the conduit, and likely have several bends each making pulling cable harder. I opted for rigid 1.5" pvp with sweeping bends rather than the flexible Smurf tube as it was cheaper particularly for that large diameter. Smurf tube is easier to install. I used 3 runs from central attic space to equipment closet, 2 from local attic spaces to central one, and 1 from rooms to local attic spaces.

Leave conduits empty (except for pull cord). These are for future use. You don't want to have to pull a new cable through a conduit containing several others already.

Hidden dimmers with keypads vs normal visible dimmer locations is a personal choice. Hidden with a few keypads makes for a cleaner install. However, not easy to go back to normal wiring scheme in the future for whatever reason. And in my case, wife prefers "this switch is for that light" logic so I'm sticking with traditional wiring scheme and will replace a few key locations with a hybrid dimmer.

Ethernet to doorbell.

More than one cat drop to TV locations. I did 3 cat and 1 RG6, though I could make an argument for 4 cat plus coax, or 4 cat no coax, or even 3 cat and 2 coax. You could use a pair of coax for stereo audio return but a single Ethernet can do that too. Cat also useful for IR control signaling, HDMI distribution etc. Hard to know what you might wind up wanting to do down the road. Better to put the wire now while it's cheap (or have conduit to pull it later, or preferably both).
Thank you, do all the wires in the attic go to equipment in attic that the communicates to equipment closet in basement or all the wires from still go to the equipment closet...
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post #14 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 07:44 AM
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Cat 6a is estimated to be 20-35% more expensive than cat 6 which for wiring a house may add one or two hundred dollars. If using 2 inch conduit pulling cat 6a is not a problem especially with a lubricant. Cat 6a adds to lifespan usefulness before needing to pull new cable.

Here is a 2019 decision tree:https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cabl.../cat6-vs-cat6a
Thank you - is it only one to two hundred more...

How about Cat 6E that cks30 mentioned...
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post #15 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 08:32 AM
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Thank you, do all the wires in the attic go to equipment in attic that the communicates to equipment closet in basement or all the wires from still go to the equipment closet...
all of the equipment is in the equipment closet. Our house is two story in the center, one story wings on each side, and a second bonus story over the garage wing. So there are multiple attic spaces that are separated from each other. The conduits span the gaps from rooms to attic spaces, or one attic space to another, all converging to the central attic space where multiple conduit runs then go to the equipment closet. In this way, I can pull wire through one conduit segment at a time, but each is easily accessible and has only one elbow in any given run.

As for the other question, cat6a certainly will not hurt. Its biggest benefit is for long runs, just keep in mind it is not really offering any higher speeds than standard cat6. So it isn't any more future-proof in that sense. Perhaps a bit more tolerant of interference especially as the run becomes longer. pulling it through conduit is not a big deal, but it is harder to install through framing because of its size and if you are paying for installation, it is possible labor cost increases not just material.

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post #16 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 08:38 AM
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As for the other question, cat6a certainly will not hurt. Its biggest benefit is for long runs, just keep in mind it is not really offering any higher speeds than standard cat6. So it isn't any more future-proof in that sense.

Any chance you know other gigabit ethernet cabling better than the cat6? Thanks in advance.
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post #17 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 08:42 AM
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Any chance you know other gigabit ethernet cabling better than the cat6? Thanks in advance.
well, that's the thing. Cat6 can support 10 gigabits-per-second for reasonable length runs, up to maybe 100 ft depending on surroundings. Cat6a also supports 10 gigabits-per-second but at much longer lengths, 100m or more. there is cat 7, which theoretically can support higher speeds but there is no hardware that transmits more than 10 gigabit per second over a single category cable link so it is not a standard and I do not believe necessary. Fiber channel runs are used commercially for backbones that run at higher speeds over long lengtha but that is not necessary for a home.

Conduit is where future proofing is found.
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post #18 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 08:44 AM
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That being said, if your installers are willing and will source the cable, cat6a is a pretty good choice because it gives you the best chance of your entire home supporting 10-gig speeds.
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post #19 of 33 Old 10-05-2019, 10:14 AM
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Thank you - is it only one to two hundred more...

How about Cat 6E that cks30 mentioned...
The $100-200 is an internet quote. Figure out how many feet of cable you need and price it out. As a novice I wired the whole house two years ago and got my cat 6A from Black Box considered a quality supplier. At the time there were no RJ45 terminations that cat6A would fit into so I terminated to patch panel in an equipment cabinet and then ran manufacture patch cables to a switch. So, I recommend you seek RJ45 specifically for cat6A.

Cat 6E has not been ratified. I have stuck with ratified cable.

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post #20 of 33 Old 10-07-2019, 08:53 AM
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well, that's the thing. Cat6 can support 10 gigabits-per-second for reasonable length runs, up to maybe 100 ft depending on surroundings. Cat6a also supports 10 gigabits-per-second but at much longer lengths, 100m or more. there is cat 7, which theoretically can support higher speeds but there is no hardware that transmits more than 10 gigabit per second over a single category cable link so it is not a standard and I do not believe necessary. Fiber channel runs are used commercially for backbones that run at higher speeds over long lengtha but that is not necessary for a home.

Conduit is where future proofing is found.
I see. Thank you very much for this info. You're right, the existing transmittal speed is at 10gbit at the present.
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post #21 of 33 Old 10-07-2019, 03:21 PM
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You may also want to run 2 RG-6 to each location. One for Over the Air Antenna and the other for cable or satellite.

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post #22 of 33 Old 10-08-2019, 01:54 AM
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You may also want to run 2 RG-6 to each location. One for Over the Air Antenna and the other for cable or satellite.
Hmm I suppose you're right. I have Mediabridge cables available here right now so I'm gonna try my luck with that. Thank you so much!
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post #23 of 33 Old 10-08-2019, 08:42 AM
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where is everyone buying their CAT6 cabling at for the best price? I am building a home as well and getting ready to purchase as I am a couple weeks away from running cable
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post #24 of 33 Old 10-08-2019, 08:57 AM
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where is everyone buying their CAT6 cabling at for the best price? I am building a home as well and getting ready to purchase as I am a couple weeks away from running cable
Here is a link for 1000 feet of shielded cat6A for $382: https://www.blackbox.com/en-US/store...thM_ff_d=304.8
But look around the Blackbox.com site for other products.

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post #25 of 33 Old 10-08-2019, 11:29 AM
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Monoprice has pretty good prices on bulk cat cable. Half of mine came from Amazon as I needed it fast. Poor planning and underestimation!

Just make sure to steer clear of cca (copper clad aluminum) cable. If the price just seems too good there is probably a reason.
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post #26 of 33 Old 10-08-2019, 04:04 PM
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^^

I don’t buy that CCA stuff either. Even my RG-6 is Copper. I was lucky when I got that 7 years ago when I built my 16 x 24 addition. The price went crazy since then.

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post #27 of 33 Old 10-11-2019, 05:39 PM
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Here is a link for 1000 feet of shielded cat6A for $382: https://www.blackbox.com/en-US/store...thM_ff_d=304.8
But look around the Blackbox.com site for other products.
Here is an internet post explaining category cable and supporting cat 6A: https://www.leviton.com/en/docs/Levi...uiresCat6A.pdf
Here is another post which explains why to not use cat7: https://www.datacenterdynamics.com/o...-their-sunset/

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post #28 of 33 Old 10-13-2019, 06:33 PM
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I'll say again, cat6a is a good option if your installer will do it and/or if the extra bulk of the shielding doesn't hamper pulling the cable too much. Should be fine for most installs.

However, while 6a is designed to operate at 500+ MHz over long runs (hundreds of feet), most consumers don't deal with those distances in residential installs. Cat6 can support 500+ over more modest runs up to 100ft, some even higher speeds, check the specific cable you are looking at.

6a gives you the best chance of not having a problem with 1gb network speeds or HDbaseT. Cat6 will very likely be just fine.
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post #29 of 33 Old 10-14-2019, 07:03 AM
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I'll say again, cat6a is a good option if your installer will do it and/or if the extra bulk of the shielding doesn't hamper pulling the cable too much. Should be fine for most installs.

However, while 6a is designed to operate at 500+ MHz over long runs (hundreds of feet), most consumers don't deal with those distances in residential installs. Cat6 can support 500+ over more modest runs up to 100ft, some even higher speeds, check the specific cable you are looking at.

6a gives you the best chance of not having a problem with 1gb network speeds or HDbaseT. Cat6 will very likely be just fine.
Two years ago I could not find an installer willing to use cat6a or knowledgeable about terminating cat6a or interested in doing a residential job. So. I had my remodeler install 2" conduit and I pulled and terminated the cat6a myself. There are learning and customizing benefits in doing your own wiring but it is time consuming. However it forced me to really think about what I was trying to accomplish. I believe SDvOE will replace HDMI and cat6a is reputed to be better for SDvOE. If I had cat6 already installed I would not rip it out and I would wait and see how the technology evolves.
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post #30 of 33 Old 10-14-2019, 08:28 AM
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I'll say again, cat6a is a good option if your installer will do it and/or if the extra bulk of the shielding doesn't hamper pulling the cable too much. Should be fine for most installs.

However, while 6a is designed to operate at 500+ MHz over long runs (hundreds of feet), most consumers don't deal with those distances in residential installs. Cat6 can support 500+ over more modest runs up to 100ft, some even higher speeds, check the specific cable you are looking at.

6a gives you the best chance of not having a problem with 1gb network speeds or HDbaseT. Cat6 will very likely be just fine.
1 gig; that is an issue. cat6a is proposed to handle about 18 GBPS support for a 4K ultra HD discs over internet protocol ethernet. While cat6a has more sheathing to control crosstalk and electromagnetic interference (EMI), the diameter is still able to fit in specialized RJ45 terminators with a drain wire:

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Last edited by Postmoderndesign; 10-15-2019 at 06:21 AM.
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