New Lumagen Radiance Pro Series - Page 170 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #5071 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 03:51 AM
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Hi Jim-

Could you provide all of your HDR settings for the RS4500? DTM and IM.

I am sure this would be more than helpful for all of us, even for us Sony pj owners.
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post #5072 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 07:49 AM
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My turn 🙂

Cant wait to plug my new Radiance Pro later today. It’s the new DTM that close the deal for me. All other features are good too but as value for money, the Radiance with the DTM is just a sweeter deal...
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post #5073 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 09:14 AM
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Taking the plunge! Just ordered my Radiance Pro and will have Craig Rounds do a custom calibration in my HT using a DCR paladin lens to pair w/ my RS4500. Can't wait to see the results and thank everyone on here for the insight into how the Lumagen works and the constant improvements being made by the folks at Lumagen to keep the performance at the peak of the industry.

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post #5074 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 09:41 AM
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Quick update to everyone helping me with my earlier apple 4k tv issues (strobe like flashes in dark scenes on itunes hdr movies only) or in case your having this issue yourself.

Originally thought it was due to the lumagen update (it was not ), or due to cables or projector settings.

After some help from apple, figured out it ended up being a bug introduced in the latest apple 4k tv update 12.3 or 12.4 I think. I got a beta update from apple 13.0 and it is fixed.

This link describes it pretty well:

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/250384290

Bottom line, big thanks to everyones help on this thread. Problem is gone now.

Just thought Id share in case anyone else comes across this problem to save them a few hrs of troubleshooting
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post #5075 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eventidal View Post
Hi Jim-

Could you provide all of your HDR settings for the RS4500? DTM and IM.
To have our setup in one place:

JVC RS4500 in mid laser, dynamic laser off, Iris wide open for both SDR and HDR sources.

Stewart Film Screen Studiotek 130, 2.40 aspect, 14 foot diagonal.

Kris Deering did the RS4500 internal "pre-calibration" for us to get the projector to its best possible state. This includes the 100% white point RGB balance. There are similar improvements that can be made in Sony and other projectors.

Measuring about 85 nits using the Pro output set to 4096x2160 (MENU 0877 is the short cut for this). This gives 6.7% more light but forces scaling on. I might go back to 3840x2160 so scaling can be off for 4k 2.35 and 2.40 content and take the 6.7% light output reduction.

RS4500 CMS is off. I forget the menu name for this and not in theater at the moment. If you do this you need a Lightspace 3D LUT calibration for both SDR and HDR. For SDR memory (CMS0) profile and target Rec709 Bt.1886. For HDR source (CMS1) use same profile and target Rec2020 Gamma = 2.4. Auto Convert needs to be off when calibrating.

When HDR Flag is Off projector in "Natural" memory and "HDR" color (color filter is not in light path with these settings), Gamma = 2.3 (because it measured closest to 2.4)

When HDR Flag is On projector in "HDR" memory and "HDR" color (color filter is not in light path with these settings), Gamma = 2.3 (because it measured closest to 2.4)

Pro CMS0->Colorspace = SDR2020, HDR Flag = Off, 2020 < - > 601/709 = Auto Convert

Pro CMS1->Colorspace = SDR2020, HDR Flag = On, 2020 < - > 601/709 = Auto Convert (Auto Convert not needed but a don't care. I set it so I don't forget when I test with P3 output mode)

Global->Video->Src Format, set all entries to Yes then press OK.

In CMS1->HDR Mapping enable HDR Mapping and set Max Light as discussed in previous posts. For our RS4500 Max Light it is set to 350.

For DTM HDR Parameters I normally use at factory defaults (DTM=On, DLev=5, Ratio, Shape, Tran, DSat, Black, Gamma). However, I am evaluating Low-set Ratio = 20 to get a 2:1 ratio for "effective display max light" between bright scenes (which use Max Light setting), versus dark scenes with a low scene MaxCLL.

============

Notes:

Having HDR Flag = On when outputting SDR2020 for HDR *only* works for JVC projectors since they allow a 2.4 Gamma even when the HDR Flag is on. This is a nice bonus for JVCs as it allows the Pro to select a different memory for SDR and for HDR content so you can adjust settings in each.

For inputs from HDR players (Oppo 203, and Strato), I use Output Setup to always output 23.98 to speed movie startup. If a title is 59.94 I manually switch output to 59.94 using MENU 029 (this is a temporary debug command and seems to turn itself off the next time I select a 23.98 source).

Set both optical and digital black as I describe in the Radiance Pro setup slide set posted previously. Since both SDR and HDR are output as "SDR" the Black level in CMS0 and CMS1 should be the same.

I no longer use Static Tone Mapping (STM). If you want to use STM select STM and set Max Light using a very bright scene (like Mad Max Fury Road). Then check and see if the defaults work for you and if not adjust as described in previous posts.

If I missed something, please post a question and I will try to answer.

Jim Peterson
Lumagen
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post #5076 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 12:09 PM
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If I missed something, please post a question and I will try to answer.
Thank you so much, Jim. Highly appreciated!!
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post #5077 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baseball0618 View Post
Taking the plunge! Just ordered my Radiance Pro and will have Craig Rounds do a custom calibration in my HT using a DCR paladin lens to pair w/ my RS4500. Can't wait to see the results and thank everyone on here for the insight into how the Lumagen works and the constant improvements being made by the folks at Lumagen to keep the performance at the peak of the industry.
You will love it. Craig was here this past weekend doing my Lumagen/4500/Panamorph.

In a word: STUNNING!!

You will love it!!
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post #5078 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp View Post
For projectors for the recent DTM release we ended up with results such that you set the High-Set Max Light equal to about four times the measured projector maximum light output. To set this, leave the High-set Ratio = 0, and set the CMS1->HDR Mapping->Max Light to four times your measured maximum brightness. With High-set Ratio = 0 the reading on screen in CMS1->HDR Mapping, is the High-set "effective display max light" value. If you change Ratio, the HDR Mapping->Max Light is not the effective value. So leave Ratio = 0 unless you have a good reason not to. The best multiple varies based on personal taste, but this is a good starting point.

Note that if you have a "light cannon" and are getting, say, 400 nits, you will likely want to drop this to about 3X. However, I cannot afford a Light Cannon to get 400 nits on our 14 foot diagonal screen, and so this is an estimate.

Press OK to accept and then Save your changes.

Remember changes to CMS1->HDR Mapping affect all inputs and input memories at factory settings since it is an Output CMS menu and all inputs and all input memories point to CMS1 for HDR source by default.

======

For the Low Set Ratio, set it to about 2 times your measured light output. For our RS4500 at 85 nits, with Max Light = 350, I need to set Ratio to 20 to approximate an Effective Display Max Light of about 170. A Ratio of 20 cuts the Effective Light in about half of the Max Light if High-set Ratio = 0. The default of 15 is roughly 0.6 * Max Light for Low-set effective Display Max Light, which also works well.

To figure out the Effective Max Light for the Low Set, go to the "left arrow" parameter menu, and make sure it is showing the Low-set. This is reported on the bottom line. Or if you are not sure, if you have not made an adjustment you can know this since Ratio defaults to 15 for the Low-set and 0 for the High-set. Then turn DTM Off temporarily, and go to the Ratio column.

When you are on the Ratio column in Static mode the line below the Ratio number shows the "effective display max light" value after taking into account the Ratio. Wish we had made this an add/subtract to make it easy to calculate but it is a change to the Ratio, but we didn't. So you have to go to Static mode to see the effective Display Max Light. Once adjusted, again enable DTM. Press OK to accept any changes.

Remember the parameter menu is an input menu. So it applies to one input and one input memory. If you have multiple sources you need copy to inputs and/or input memories you want to propagate the changes to. Save your changes.

=======

After viewing some material you may choose to make changes to the above. Certainly reasonable since this is going to vary to some degree based on personal preference. However for projectors in the 70 to 140 nit range I believe this is a excellent starting point and you may well agree with me that they are good final settings.

=======

I have do more work to do to get my recommendations for TVs updated. I am planning to buy an OLED to have in the Lumagen Demo Theater to compare DTM results using our RS4500 image versus the OLED, and to come up with some better recommendations for bright TVs. Not sure when this will happen but stay tuned.
I had to read this through a couple of times, but following along with the Radiance Pro menu helped me to understand Jim's instructions. I was messing around on my uncalibrated LG OLED B7A. Now, I don't know if I am going crazy or not, but prior to this software release, even static tone mapping did not seem to make a difference for HDR, and LG's built-in Dynamic Tone Mapping (Dynamic Contrast, set to Low) was better than static tone mapping.

However, when I evaluated this tonight, now the static tone mapping makes a difference, but I wound up with the Max Light set to 9900, and then the DTM Low-Set Ratio to 20. I was primarily evaluating scenes in The Magnificent 7 and Mad Max Fury Road. The main problem I have is I don't know exactly how these scenes are supposed to look, but I adjust them until they look the best to me.

Next time I fire up the projector, I am going to work on the settings for that display.

Here are the scenes I am referencing; forgive the formatting issues, as I pasted this from Word:

1) Mad Max Fury Road™ (2015) Max Mon = 4000, MaxCLL = 9919
▪ Examples of bright (specular) highlights in an overall low-APL scene.
• Chapter 03 / 0:28:37 Sand Storm: Fireball in the upper left; lightning in the upper right.
▪ Examples of extremely bright (specular) highlights.
• Chapter 03 / 0:28:29 Sand Storm: Car exploding in the air.
• Chapter 03 / 0:28:37 Sand Storm: Fireball in the upper left; lightning in the upper right.
• Chapter 03 / 0:38:13 Muzzle flash; a couple pixels in the 4400 Nit range.
• Chapter 11 / 1:46.59 Sunset in the desert.

2) The Martian™ (2015) Max Mon = 1100, MaxCLL = 0
▪ Examples of bright (specular) highlights in an overall low-APL scene.
• Chapter 02 / 0:33:35 Storm approaching.
• Chapter 21 / 1:19:08 Large setting sun with character sitting on a rock.
• Chapter 24 / 1:37:35 Sun peeking around dark mountains.

3) The Magnificent 7™ (2016) Max Mon = ????, MaxCLL = ????
▪ Examples of bright (specular) highlights in an overall low-APL scene.
• Chapter 3 / 0:12:01 Horseback rider cresting hill with sun in the background.
• MaxCLL = 1113, MaxY = 1752
• Post about DTM issues with this scene.
• Chapter 03 / 0:16:00 Dimly lit bar with bright windows & doorway in the background.
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post #5079 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 08:42 PM
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Well, the new firmware has me perplexed - I cannot get DTM On to look nearly as good as the prior firmware - currently DTM Off looks much better in both brighter and darker scenes compared to On

The image is flatter, reduced in overall brightness, and less saturdated - I’ve tried a variety of Max light settings and worked with Kris to implement some dtm setting changes

There is something odd that I can’t figure out yet

So far this seems like a step backwards at least for me - I’ve reached out to Jim so hopefully we can see if there is some setting or settings that are not optimal.

Kris did mention this might be an byproduct of the increased padding now in place in an effort to trap for and reduce highlight clipping (if I’m paraphrasing him correctly) - but if this is the case, it feels way too conservative an approach - I’d sacrifice occasional loss of highlight detail for a more impactful overall image
I'm in the same boat as you, Thrang. I want to go back to the previous firmware.

How can I go back to previous firmware?
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post #5080 of 5586 Old 08-06-2019, 09:15 PM
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I'm in the same boat as you, Thrang. I want to go back to the previous firmware.

How can I go back to previous firmware?
I went back to previous firmware by doing a boot update and brightness, colors and contrast are back to normal. There's definetly something weird with new firmware. Just like Thrang said, image is flat and lifeless and way less brighter at least on my RS4500.
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post #5081 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 05:01 AM
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I went back to previous firmware by doing a boot update and brightness, colors and contrast are back to normal. There's definetly something weird with new firmware. Just like Thrang said, image is flat and lifeless and way less brighter at least on my RS4500.
I had someone walk me through some changes to some of the parameters (can't recall the parameters nor how to do it). While I don't recall everything I changed, I think most were those outlined by Jim in one of his posts above.

I then watched an entire movie with it and did not flip the on/off DTM switch. The images were stunning. At the end of the movie, I started in some random spot and played the on/off game. And while the initial "feel" of what I saw lined up with your comments, when I looked carefully at some of the scenes, it was easy to see how the lighter portion of a specific image actually had better definition. And in some cases, the lighter areas went from "totally washed out" to much more highly defined image.

Jim Peterson or Kris Deering or Craig Rounds would have to validate/clairfy what I am describing.

This is probably not a valid comparison but I offer it nonetheless. When I was into audio retailing, I use to play a trick on my unsuspecting prospects. I would ask them to shut their eyes and compare two reproductions of the same music (there were multiple speakers in front of them). I would "switch back and forth" and ask then which they preferred. However, I actually never switched speakers but had it set up such that one session ON THE SAME SET OF SPEAKERS) was 2dB louder than the other session. And, of course, 100% of them selected the louder comparison. And I think some of that may be going on here. Our eyes instantly prefer the brighter image even before analyzing all of the specifics of the image. As I said, this may not apply but it helps explain to me at least why, when watching the movie without fiddling with the on/off toggle, the image looks spectacular. And only when I do the A/B do I "perceive"something is "wrong".

Clearly, in this case, YMMV!
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post #5083 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
I had someone walk me through some changes to some of the parameters (can't recall the parameters nor how to do it). While I don't recall everything I changed, I think most were those outlined by Jim in one of his posts above.

I then watched an entire movie with it and did not flip the on/off DTM switch. The images were stunning. At the end of the movie, I started in some random spot and played the on/off game. And while the initial "feel" of what I saw lined up with your comments, when I looked carefully at some of the scenes, it was easy to see how the lighter portion of a specific image actually had better definition. And in some cases, the lighter areas went from "totally washed out" to much more highly defined image.

Jim Peterson or Kris Deering or Craig Rounds would have to validate/clairfy what I am describing.

This is probably not a valid comparison but I offer it nonetheless. When I was into audio retailing, I use to play a trick on my unsuspecting prospects. I would ask them to shut their eyes and compare two reproductions of the same music (there were multiple speakers in front of them). I would "switch back and forth" and ask then which they preferred. However, I actually never switched speakers but had it set up such that one session ON THE SAME SET OF SPEAKERS) was 2dB louder than the other session. And, of course, 100% of them selected the louder comparison. And I think some of that may be going on here. Our eyes instantly prefer the brighter image even before analyzing all of the specifics of the image. As I said, this may not apply but it helps explain to me at least why, when watching the movie without fiddling with the on/off toggle, the image looks spectacular. And only when I do the A/B do I "perceive"something is "wrong".

Clearly, in this case, YMMV!
I messed around for over an hour trying to get the same results I had with the previous firmware. I even reloaded the firmware again to see if something went wrong during the update. As soon I went back to my image was bright and colors were popping.
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post #5084 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrp View Post
To have our setup in one place:

JVC RS4500 in mid laser, dynamic laser off, Iris wide open for both SDR and HDR sources.

Stewart Film Screen Studiotek 130, 2.40 aspect, 14 foot diagonal.

Kris Deering did the RS4500 internal "pre-calibration" for us to get the projector to its best possible state. This includes the 100% white point RGB balance. There are similar improvements that can be made in Sony and other projectors.

Measuring about 85 nits using the Pro output set to 4096x2160 (MENU 0877 is the short cut for this). This gives 6.7% more light but forces scaling on. I might go back to 3840x2160 so scaling can be off for 4k 2.35 and 2.40 content and take the 6.7% light output reduction.

RS4500 CMS is off. I forget the menu name for this and not in theater at the moment. If you do this you need a Lightspace 3D LUT calibration for both SDR and HDR. For SDR memory (CMS0) profile and target Rec709 Bt.1886. For HDR source (CMS1) use same profile and target Rec2020 Gamma = 2.4. Auto Convert needs to be off when calibrating.

When HDR Flag is Off projector in "Natural" memory and "HDR" color (color filter is not in light path with these settings), Gamma = 2.3 (because it measured closest to 2.4)

When HDR Flag is On projector in "HDR" memory and "HDR" color (color filter is not in light path with these settings), Gamma = 2.3 (because it measured closest to 2.4)

Pro CMS0->Colorspace = SDR2020, HDR Flag = Off, 2020 < - > 601/709 = Auto Convert

Pro CMS1->Colorspace = SDR2020, HDR Flag = On, 2020 < - > 601/709 = Auto Convert (Auto Convert not needed but a don't care. I set it so I don't forget when I test with P3 output mode)

Global->Video->Src Format, set all entries to Yes then press OK.

In CMS1->HDR Mapping enable HDR Mapping and set Max Light as discussed in previous posts. For our RS4500 Max Light it is set to 350.

For DTM HDR Parameters I normally use at factory defaults (DTM=On, DLev=5, Ratio, Shape, Tran, DSat, Black, Gamma). However, I am evaluating Low-set Ratio = 20 to get a 2:1 ratio for "effective display max light" between bright scenes (which use Max Light setting), versus dark scenes with a low scene MaxCLL.

============

Notes:

Having HDR Flag = On when outputting SDR2020 for HDR *only* works for JVC projectors since they allow a 2.4 Gamma even when the HDR Flag is on. This is a nice bonus for JVCs as it allows the Pro to select a different memory for SDR and for HDR content so you can adjust settings in each.

For inputs from HDR players (Oppo 203, and Strato), I use Output Setup to always output 23.98 to speed movie startup. If a title is 59.94 I manually switch output to 59.94 using MENU 029 (this is a temporary debug command and seems to turn itself off the next time I select a 23.98 source).

Set both optical and digital black as I describe in the Radiance Pro setup slide set posted previously. Since both SDR and HDR are output as "SDR" the Black level in CMS0 and CMS1 should be the same.

I no longer use Static Tone Mapping (STM). If you want to use STM select STM and set Max Light using a very bright scene (like Mad Max Fury Road). Then check and see if the defaults work for you and if not adjust as described in previous posts.

If I missed something, please post a question and I will try to answer.

I am not exactly sure how Chad B has my set up using my JVC RS4500 Lumagen Rad Pro and DCR lens but putting in SHAZAM 4k Disc prior to and after the new release (the first one- i have not loaded the latest one or two) there was a definitive difference noticed on how VIVID the HDR picture looks now, i have had no time to put more movies in since i have been really busy, i have been following the posts as much as possible - I do not know much about the settings Chad B. has in my calibrations but does not appear that they match above, i told him make it project the best possible picture - he is using high laser on HDR - medium laser on SDR and maybe some custom REC2084 calibration (i would have to double check the numbers but def. not REC2020 - i would have to flow through the menu and write some stuff down - but needless to say i am floored at the picture it produces. I am using the Panasonic 9000 UHD player - but I am pretty sure the Rad Pro is doing all the DTM work.
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post #5085 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GerryWaz View Post
A new UI with the help built in (with everything in the manual and constantly being updated as features are released or changed and the specific help for a setting accessible by that setting) would be optimal, IMVHO.



I'm too old fashioned. Reading a manual and then having to sort through hundreds of forum posts for additional nuggets of wisdom is not my "favorite" thing to do.
our man watches the instructions then - when he has already broken everything
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post #5086 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by GerryWaz View Post
A new UI with the help built in (with everything in the manual and constantly being updated as features are released or changed and the specific help for a setting accessible by that setting) would be optimal, IMVHO.

I'm too old fashioned. Reading a manual and then having to sort through hundreds of forum posts for additional nuggets of wisdom is not my "favorite" thing to do.
You may, then, want to consider having someone do the calibration for you! Then you don't need to worry about manuals, and help screens and the UI. Write the check and sit back and enjoy.
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post #5087 of 5586 Old 08-07-2019, 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by SSnarski View Post
I am not exactly sure how Chad B has my set up using my JVC RS4500 Lumagen Rad Pro and DCR lens but putting in SHAZAM 4k Disc prior to and after the new release (the first one- i have not loaded the latest one or two) there was a definitive difference noticed on how VIVID the HDR picture looks now
Same exact results with Shazam 4K absolutely stunning!!!
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post #5088 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 07:10 AM
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Watched Endgame last night. Kris Deering calibrated my 995 and provided me with new settings which he walked me through updating. Thanks Kris! Wow. Hard to see how this could be further improved without a new projector like a Christie Eclipse, but I’m sure Jim and company will keep tweaking... My wife commented how good it looked and that hasn’t happened too often. The Kaleidescape version of this film is top notch. SJ
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post #5089 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by audioguy View Post
You may, then, want to consider having someone do the calibration for you! Then you don't need to worry about manuals, and help screens and the UI. Write the check and sit back and enjoy.
I was actually just about to do that.

Jim Peterson recommended a local calibrator to me last week who knows the Radiance, and I was going to contact that person. But, before that, I decided to do one last trial.

I'm probably one of the few folks here who use the Radiance Pro with a regular TV and not a projector--in my case, the Sony 75Z9D. Netflix HDR from my Roku Ultimate box was looking faded and drab. So I wanted to try connecting the video feed from the Roku directly to the 75Z9D and see how it looked in comparison.

As I was about to do that and shift my HDMI cables around (I use Tributaries UHD Pro 2.0M cables as recommended by Jim), I remembered what he had said recently about making sure your HDMI cable plugs were all the way inserted. Turns out a couple of mine were not, probably just around a 1/8 inch "off" from being completely inserted.

Making the connections very snug made all the difference in the world. HDR content from Netflix is now colorful and popping. Even SD content is more detailed and popping. Something that simple. I fool so feelish.

So, for now, I'm back to reviewing all the documentation and trying a few tweaks first to see if I can improve what is right now very, very acceptable.

I'm good technically on most things but when it comes to HDR stuff, it gets too confusing too fast with all the acronyms and standards and options, so a calibrator is defintely the way I'll go if I want more.

I'm also more of a visual learner as I get older. I need to both read and see things. Sometimes wish there were some up-to-date videos on these things on something like YouTube--or a local or streamed class or two.
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post #5090 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 08:50 AM
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After downloading firmware 071919 and 072019, I had the same issue Thrang had - I watched " La La Land " with some friends, and thought it did not have the same look as the previous DTM had. It looked flat, and colors weren't as bright. But then I installed the latest 072119 version, and yesterday while changing gamma settings while walking Terry Honaker through installing the latest RS4500 firmware, something changed. I had " Captain Marvel " on 4K on and it suddenly got brighter. I tested La La Land and it looks just as good or better than before firmware 071919. Not sure what happened. " Ghost In The Machine ".
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post #5091 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 11:31 AM
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I hesitate to even say this because I am far from qualified but add my name to the list of folks thinking that the previous DTM was better and much more vibrant.
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post #5092 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 12:07 PM
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I'm wondering if this is just based on evaluating popular test material mentioned on this thread, because my experience is showing superior performance in lighter and dark scenes with the new firmware.

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post #5093 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by BrolicBeast View Post
I'm wondering if this is just based on evaluating popular test material mentioned on this thread, because my experience is showing superior performance in lighter and dark scenes with the new firmware.

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I only have 071919 loaded, i am going to load the latest 072119 when i get a chance - it appears that 071919 gave some people different results, i am sure there were some bugs somewhere, hence the re-release of two more quick updates, because it obviously regressed some peoples DTM from what it was prior - for me i would say it worked great

BrolicBeast not sure which latest firmware you have loaded - as Craig pointed out there were three 071919 - 072019 - and 072119


One movie i am going to try out next would be Captain Marvel, one of the worst 4k UHD discs picture wise i have seen to date besides the original Superman 4K Disc - that one has to be the worst i have seen, might even throw it in the garbage - absolutely terrible

I believe someone mentioned Captain Marvel might have just been filmed to look like that - i want to see what the new DTM does to some of the dark scenes in that movie - Looked pretty good on my 77" OLED - but on the RS4500 not so much! These movies were watched prior to the new DTM updates.

Last edited by SSnarski; 08-08-2019 at 12:44 PM.
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post #5094 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SSnarski View Post
I only have 071919 loaded, i am going to load the latest 072119 when i get a chance - it appears that 071919 gave some people different results, i am sure there were some bugs somewhere, hence the re-release of two more quick updates, because it obviously regressed some peoples DTM from what it was prior - for me i would say it worked great

BrolicBeast not sure which latest firmware you have loaded - as Craig pointed out there were three 071919 - 072019 - and 072119


One movie i am going to try out next would be Captain Marvel, one of the worst 4k UHD discs picture wise i have seen to date besides the original Superman 4K Disc - that one has to be the worst i have seen, might even throw it in the garbage - absolutely terrible

I believe someone mentioned Captain Marvel might have just been filmed to look like that - i want to see what the new DTM does to some of the dark scenes in that movie - Looked pretty good on my 77" OLED - but on the RS4500 not so much! These movies were watched prior to the new DTM updates.
I watched " Captain Marvel " with the older 042119 DTM firmware on my RS4500 ( I have no OLED - or really any TV other than a smaller HDTV for watching the news ) and I thought it looked good. It appeared to look as good if not better yesterday with the latest firmware. Hell, " Solo " looks good on my 4500 ! I'm going to wait on watching a bunch of new 4K Blu-rays until after Kris Deering calibrates my RS4500 next Thursday. I have plenty of movies on Blu-ray to catch up on in the mean time.
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post #5095 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig Peer View Post
After downloading firmware 071919 and 072019, I had the same issue Thrang had - I watched " La La Land " with some friends, and thought it did not have the same look as the previous DTM had. It looked flat, and colors weren't as bright. But then I installed the latest 072119 version, and yesterday while changing gamma settings while walking Terry Honaker through installing the latest RS4500 firmware, something changed. I had " Captain Marvel " on 4K on and it suddenly got brighter. I tested La La Land and it looks just as good or better than before firmware 071919. Not sure what happened. " Ghost In The Machine ".
My bet is the change of Gamma settings is what you are seeing. I upgraded a bit ago from 7-20 to 7-21 and see absolutely zero difference.

I would add that when I don't play the DTM On/Off game, the image is simply stellar, I see no flatness or dullness. Looks great.

Last edited by audioguy; 08-08-2019 at 01:38 PM.
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post #5096 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 02:03 PM
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My bet is the change of Gamma settings is what you are seeing. I upgraded a bit ago from 7-20 to 7-21 and see absolutely zero difference.

I would add that when I don't play the DTM On/Off game, the image is simply stellar, I see no flatness or dullness. Looks great.
Maybe I had something set wrong from futzing with settings. Seems good now.
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post #5097 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 05:24 PM
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One of my DTM evaluation scenes not on the top 5 I posted earlier in this thread. Check out the lights and shadows in this scene. It's a cell phone camera, but some of it should hopefully come through:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B067VHJA...d=2n24ounht95c

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post #5098 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 05:25 PM
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@SSnarski I'm using the 21 variant! Working great for me!

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post #5099 of 5586 Old 08-08-2019, 08:49 PM
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Same exact results with Shazam 4K absolutely stunning!!!
I watched the movie as well after Kris updated my Lumagen and did a touch up on my lowly RS500. While the picture was amazing and I hadn't viewed it prior to the upgrade, keeping engaged with the movie itself was difficult. I can appreciate teen themed movies but Shazam was not one I think I can watch many more times, wish I hadn't purchased it.

I am looking forward to more captivating releases or re-releases to enjoy what appears after limited tests to be a very nice upgrade after the latest firmware. Of course much of that could be due to Kris's expertise, he is a gentleman and skilled calibrater to be sure.
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Last edited by GeorgeHolland; 08-08-2019 at 08:56 PM.
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post #5100 of 5586 Old 08-09-2019, 12:30 AM
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Anyone with 18ghz outputs experiencing green screen on 042119? Multiple reboots flash down and back up seem to make no difference at this point.
I am also experiencing the same issue. Lumagen Radiance Pro 4242-18GHz. Using Beta 072119 Firmware.
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