HDfury AVR-Key Help - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 1500 Old 03-21-2018, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
You just have to connect Windows PC and AVR-Key in system, when you have source at input and display at output.
Can you confirm the cable length from AVR-Key to AVR please.


If it's 99% working, then it's same bug we are trying to chase since a while, but no one found a way to reproduce it at will, so it's hard for us to fix it if we cannot reproduce.
Cable from AVR Key to AVR is 2m as well. I unfortunately can't connect to windows PC while connected in system because they are too far apart (windows PC is upstairs). I will try from my laptop, does the AVR key need high power USB port because my laptop is an old one and doesn't have high power USB ports.
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post #812 of 1500 Old 03-21-2018, 01:43 PM
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I made the return of the old version and received the new model today, with updated firmware 1.619.218.




Now I can do with 4k @ 60HZ signals and a hair dryer can perform a thermal test
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post #813 of 1500 Old 03-21-2018, 06:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Carnajo View Post
Cable from AVR Key to AVR is 2m as well. I unfortunately can't connect to windows PC while connected in system because they are too far apart (windows PC is upstairs). I will try from my laptop, does the AVR key need high power USB port because my laptop is an old one and doesn't have high power USB ports.
Sometimes, you do better cooking with older equipment, give it a try


To answer the question: No AVR-Key doesn't need much to run GUI. It should work just fine (you might just eventually need to connect powercord to the laptop)

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #814 of 1500 Old 03-22-2018, 06:57 PM
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Yeah that?s the exact same equipment I have and what I tried. When I said AVR above I was referring to the AVR Key. It doesn?t work in that configuration. The picture won?t display.
Got this working with some extra help.
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XBox One S-->Atmos soundbar (Samsung K950)

When I popped the above in for the Oppo no audio, but had Dolby vision. Didn't try tweaking the xbox because its pretty picky and really felt no chance of success.

This works:
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->Oppo203/205-->XBox One S-->Atmos soundbar (Samsung K950)

edit: the AVRkey started working on its own without the Oppo. Sync seems perfect so far. The only grudge is after exiting a movie it dumps my soundbar to the wrong hdmi input. Once you start up video it takes nearly 15 seconds to handshake the atmos upmixed sound when switching back to the corrent input.

The Oppo on its own splits but just HDR retained and sync results not perfect after adjustment.

The Xbox's upmixing with Dolby Access app is just spooky good. The worse the source the more it does for it. My only wish now would be another device in the chain that would accept multi-channel LPCM from ATV4K and convert it to DD+ which the xbox will also handle from its input (have Roku Premiere+ doing Fandango with this). If you send over dolby trueHD the xbox will accept, but doesn't do a lot of upmixing if any. Xbox does not accept DTS via its input or LPCM.

Note: late in this thread I'm going to inquire about difference in sound between these two splitters. Oppo heavy bass; HDfury lean is current result.

HDMI Gone Wild - Audio HDMI Chains: (min. upmixed Atmos) Sony X700(Vudu, etc.)
Oppo UDP-203-->LG OLED65B7 and SamsungK950 (4K Atmos discs and files + 2 more subs!)
XboxOneS-->K950 (DTS discs, 2K files, Fandango 2K DTSHD)
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XboxOneS-->K950 (iTunes and Vudu atmos, &Infuse - dd5.1)
Roku Premiere+-->Oppo UDP-203-->K950(Fandango and MA HDR, DD+)

Last edited by meles; 03-23-2018 at 10:46 AM.
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post #815 of 1500 Old 03-23-2018, 12:46 PM
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I've got the following setup working with the AVRkey:
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XBox One S-->Atmos soundbar (Samsung K950)

with pretty much perfect results with the above except for my soundbar always wanting to switch to the TV's audio return channel when I switch to another movie instead of the audio split off to the Xbox coming in on its hdmi 2 port.

I'd like to also like to get a Roku Premiere+ playing Fandango movie store 4K/HDR, but I'm getting bizarre HDCP messages and no audio when I do this. Any ideas? I suspect the XBox is part of the issue, but its fine being just fed by the Roku which is set for DD+ output.

HDMI Gone Wild - Audio HDMI Chains: (min. upmixed Atmos) Sony X700(Vudu, etc.)
Oppo UDP-203-->LG OLED65B7 and SamsungK950 (4K Atmos discs and files + 2 more subs!)
XboxOneS-->K950 (DTS discs, 2K files, Fandango 2K DTSHD)
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XboxOneS-->K950 (iTunes and Vudu atmos, &Infuse - dd5.1)
Roku Premiere+-->Oppo UDP-203-->K950(Fandango and MA HDR, DD+)
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post #816 of 1500 Old 03-23-2018, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by meles View Post
I've got the following setup working with the AVRkey:
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XBox One S-->Atmos soundbar (Samsung K950)

with pretty much perfect results with the above except for my soundbar always wanting to switch to the TV's audio return channel when I switch to another movie instead of the audio split off to the Xbox coming in on its hdmi 2 port.

I'd like to also like to get a Roku Premiere+ playing Fandango movie store 4K/HDR, but I'm getting bizarre HDCP messages and no audio when I do this. Any ideas? I suspect the XBox is part of the issue, but its fine being just fed by the Roku which is set for DD+ output.

Try changing HDCP settings from follow to 1.4 and see if it solves the issue.
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Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #817 of 1500 Old 03-24-2018, 08:08 AM
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post #818 of 1500 Old 03-24-2018, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Try changing HDCP settings from follow to 1.4 and see if it solves the issue.
Got it working, but may needs some tweaking as shower scene on Tomb Raider kept having video glitches on Fandango and that's totally unacceptable. Luving the AVRkey.

HDMI Gone Wild - Audio HDMI Chains: (min. upmixed Atmos) Sony X700(Vudu, etc.)
Oppo UDP-203-->LG OLED65B7 and SamsungK950 (4K Atmos discs and files + 2 more subs!)
XboxOneS-->K950 (DTS discs, 2K files, Fandango 2K DTSHD)
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XboxOneS-->K950 (iTunes and Vudu atmos, &Infuse - dd5.1)
Roku Premiere+-->Oppo UDP-203-->K950(Fandango and MA HDR, DD+)
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post #819 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 03:01 AM
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Hi HDFury,
I need some purchase advice please. By way of background I have the following components:

* Samsung JU6400 75 Inch TV * Yamaha YSP-5600 Digital Sound Projector (Dolby ATMOS capable).

* Xbox One X
* Foxtel IQ3 (Cable TV)
* Nvidia Shield TV Media Player

I control all of these devices with a Logitech Harmony Ultimate One remote.

This all works great, HOWEVER, it appears that the Yamaha YSP-5600 soundbar does not support HDR video. Therefore, when I want to use my Xbox One X to view UHD 4K Bluray discs, I have to choose between either having the ability to get HDR video OR getting ATMOS sound. I cannot have both if I connect the Xbox One X via HDMI to the soundbar, and then from the soundbar to the TV.

To alleviate part of this issue of the Yamaha YSP-5600 not processing HDR, I can connect the Xbox One X by HDMI directly to the TV (that gets me HDR), and then run an optical cable from the soundbar to the Xbox One X. So when using the optical cable plugged into the Xbox One X and then direct into the YSP-5600 soundbar, I miss out on getting Dolby ATMOS. Due to the capability of the optical cable I cannot get ATMOS (only basic Dolby sound apparently).

So my options are to:
(1) Suck it up and live with the current setup as is (I don't want to do that).

(2) Buy all new home theatre gear (AV receiver capable of HDR/4K on all HDMI ports and ATMOS sound etc and buy quite a few speakers etc (I would prefer not to have to do that).

(3) Buy either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz (I'd be ok to go down this path IF it works 100% and goes not give me any trouble).

QUESTIONS:
* Would buying either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, fix my situation and allow me to get BOTH HDR 4K video and ATMOS sound on the Xbox One X to the Soundbar?

* Does either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, downscale the audio or video output at all? (That would not be good)

* What is the difference between the 2 x products? Which product would I need given my situation?

On another note, I've read a few posts here where people are talking about using the AVR Key for the Apple TV 4K media player. Is that because they are looking at getting ATMOS sound as the ATV does not support ATMOS?
If I wanted to get an ATV, would I need another AVR Key OR would the Vertex do the job as it takes another HDMI input source?

HDFury - if you can please assist by answering all of the above asap it would be greatly appreciated, so I can make a decision regarding purchase.
Thanks again
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post #820 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 05:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
On another note, I've read a few posts here where people are talking about using the AVR Key for the Apple TV 4K media player. Is that because they are looking at getting ATMOS sound as the ATV does not support ATMOS?
If I wanted to get an ATV, would I need another AVR Key OR would the Vertex do the job as it takes another HDMI input source?


There’s no way you’ll be able to get atmos out of an Apple TV 4k. It just can’t be done. It doesn’t support it and there’s no way any device can ‘add’ proper atmos if it’s not in the source. I’m interested in the avrkey because my Apple TV and oled tv are both capable of Dolby Vision yet my amp isn’t. However, from reading these forums the avr key does not seem to meet the consistent standards I’d expect from such a pricey device when used with the Apple TV 4k


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post #821 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
Hi HDFury,
I need some purchase advice please. By way of background I have the following components:

* Samsung JU6400 75 Inch TV * Yamaha YSP-5600 Digital Sound Projector (Dolby ATMOS capable).

* Xbox One X
* Foxtel IQ3 (Cable TV)
* Nvidia Shield TV Media Player

I control all of these devices with a Logitech Harmony Ultimate One remote.

This all works great, HOWEVER, it appears that the Yamaha YSP-5600 soundbar does not support HDR video. Therefore, when I want to use my Xbox One X to view UHD 4K Bluray discs, I have to choose between either having the ability to get HDR video OR getting ATMOS sound. I cannot have both if I connect the Xbox One X via HDMI to the soundbar, and then from the soundbar to the TV.

To alleviate part of this issue of the Yamaha YSP-5600 not processing HDR, I can connect the Xbox One X by HDMI directly to the TV (that gets me HDR), and then run an optical cable from the soundbar to the Xbox One X. So when using the optical cable plugged into the Xbox One X and then direct into the YSP-5600 soundbar, I miss out on getting Dolby ATMOS. Due to the capability of the optical cable I cannot get ATMOS (only basic Dolby sound apparently).

So my options are to:
(1) Suck it up and live with the current setup as is (I don't want to do that).

(2) Buy all new home theatre gear (AV receiver capable of HDR/4K on all HDMI ports and ATMOS sound etc and buy quite a few speakers etc (I would prefer not to have to do that).

(3) Buy either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz (I'd be ok to go down this path IF it works 100% and goes not give me any trouble).

QUESTIONS:
* Would buying either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, fix my situation and allow me to get BOTH HDR 4K video and ATMOS sound on the Xbox One X to the Soundbar?

* Does either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, downscale the audio or video output at all? (That would not be good)

* What is the difference between the 2 x products? Which product would I need given my situation?

On another note, I've read a few posts here where people are talking about using the AVR Key for the Apple TV 4K media player. Is that because they are looking at getting ATMOS sound as the ATV does not support ATMOS?
If I wanted to get an ATV, would I need another AVR Key OR would the Vertex do the job as it takes another HDMI input source?

HDFury - if you can please assist by answering all of the above asap it would be greatly appreciated, so I can make a decision regarding purchase.
Thanks again


As long your source is capable of sending ATMOS and as long as your AVR is capable of decoding ATMOS, then yes, this will work perfectly, it will not only work for ATMOS, it will work with any sound format in existence today (still as long as source and AVR support it)
So you will be able to send HDR or DV from source to display and have full HDMI sound for your older AVR, it is made for that.


AVR-Key can give something between 3 and 5h or full audio playback without any dropout, there is a small audio dropout happening once every couple of hours.
If you want to get rid of that, then use Vertex, which can playback full hdmi audio for months without any issue.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #822 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 01:43 PM
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Thanks for your responses.
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post #823 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
Thanks for your responses.
Note that Hdfury said if your source supplies ATMOS. The ATV 4K does not now, so you won't get it. That of course has nothing to do with the AVR-key. I have one and it works well with the Sony A1E and ATV 4K, with an occasional white screen that I suspect will be diagnosed at some point and fixed.
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post #824 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 02:18 PM
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* What is the difference between the 2 x products? Which product would I need given my situation?

* As the Vertex has 2 x HDMI inputs, does it accept 2 x source devices?

* Does the AVR Key 18Gbps suffer heat issues? Is this alleviated with a cooling device placed underneath?
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post #825 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
* What is the difference between the 2 x products? Which product would I need given my situation?

* As the Vertex has 2 x HDMI inputs, does it accept 2 x source devices?

* Does the AVR Key 18Gbps suffer heat issues? Is this alleviated with a cooling device placed underneath?

There is no real comparison between both, AVR-Key mainly serve one purpose only.
While Vertex can do way more.


Yes it accepts 2 sources and can upscale/downscale any output at will while performing chroma, color depth, hdcp and metadata changes.


AVR-Key is running hot, while Vertex really cool.
Yes you can improve AVR-Key perf by having a cooling device placed underneath, this can be needed in closed environment or if room temp is above 30 Celsius degrees in order to extend the playback time before a small dropout can be hear.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #826 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
There is no real comparison between both, AVR-Key mainly serve one purpose only.
While Vertex can do way more.


Yes it accepts 2 sources and can upscale/downscale any output at will while performing chroma, color depth, hdcp and metadata changes.


AVR-Key is running hot, while Vertex really cool.
Yes you can improve AVR-Key perf by having a cooling device placed underneath, this can be needed in closed environment or if room temp is above 30 Celsius degrees in order to extend the playback time before a small dropout can be hear.
Any recommendations for an appropriate cooling device?
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post #827 of 1500 Old 03-25-2018, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
Hi HDFury,
I need some purchase advice please. By way of background I have the following components:

* Samsung JU6400 75 Inch TV * Yamaha YSP-5600 Digital Sound Projector (Dolby ATMOS capable).

* Xbox One X
* Foxtel IQ3 (Cable TV)
* Nvidia Shield TV Media Player

I control all of these devices with a Logitech Harmony Ultimate One remote.

This all works great, HOWEVER, it appears that the Yamaha YSP-5600 soundbar does not support HDR video. Therefore, when I want to use my Xbox One X to view UHD 4K Bluray discs, I have to choose between either having the ability to get HDR video OR getting ATMOS sound. I cannot have both if I connect the Xbox One X via HDMI to the soundbar, and then from the soundbar to the TV.

To alleviate part of this issue of the Yamaha YSP-5600 not processing HDR, I can connect the Xbox One X by HDMI directly to the TV (that gets me HDR), and then run an optical cable from the soundbar to the Xbox One X. So when using the optical cable plugged into the Xbox One X and then direct into the YSP-5600 soundbar, I miss out on getting Dolby ATMOS. Due to the capability of the optical cable I cannot get ATMOS (only basic Dolby sound apparently).

So my options are to:
(1) Suck it up and live with the current setup as is (I don't want to do that).

(2) Buy all new home theatre gear (AV receiver capable of HDR/4K on all HDMI ports and ATMOS sound etc and buy quite a few speakers etc (I would prefer not to have to do that).

(3) Buy either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz (I'd be ok to go down this path IF it works 100% and goes not give me any trouble).

QUESTIONS:
* Would buying either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, fix my situation and allow me to get BOTH HDR 4K video and ATMOS sound on the Xbox One X to the Soundbar?

* Does either the AVR Key 18Gbps or the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600HMz, downscale the audio or video output at all? (That would not be good)

* What is the difference between the 2 x products? Which product would I need given my situation?

On another note, I've read a few posts here where people are talking about using the AVR Key for the Apple TV 4K media player. Is that because they are looking at getting ATMOS sound as the ATV does not support ATMOS?
If I wanted to get an ATV, would I need another AVR Key OR would the Vertex do the job as it takes another HDMI input source?

HDFury - if you can please assist by answering all of the above asap it would be greatly appreciated, so I can make a decision regarding purchase.
Thanks again
I'm using avrkey with ATV4K and Xbox one S (X even better) to upmix Atmos from itunes and the Infuse app on ATV4K which is an awesome media player. Good chance this would work for you, but its not a friendly setup. I'm just in the first days with the avrkey and I need to tweak its settings a bit to get it more stable. The thing that is dicey that I just figured out is stopping my Samsung k950 sound bar from continually switching back to the ARC input. You'd want to be able to disable this type feature on your Yamaha Atmos bar which means you'd always have to switch its hdmi inputs manually. This is a fantastic sounding setup for upmixing especially if you have other TV services.

If you're interested in upmixed sound for your Soundbar you need to get Dolby Access going on the Xbox and get the settings right and just view without HDR for testing purposes. Netflix is just about perfect from the Xbox with HDR and Atmos (Altered Carbon Series is great and if in UK I'd kill to see the new Star Trek series). Vudu just got HDR going along with Dolby Vision on the Xbox and they have a ton of Atmos. Vudu was only Dolby Vision until this November and they've not made all their titles HDR yet as well, but they are making progress. The Xbox is also fantastic with discs that are not Atmos. With the right settings it should upmix all of those to Atmos which is a big, big boost in sound.

The problem you have in my mind is some of the time you'll need a splitter between the xbox and the yamaha Atmos bar to keep your HDR. If you have other devices like ATV4K above and Roku Prem+/Ultra which do Fandango (which if linked right will get you some Vudu titles in HDR for free) they will need to be hooked into hdmi input of xbox to get Atmos, and the xbox hdmi input is just like your soundbar. My K950 Samsung bar passes HDR, so I just have the one splitter between these devices and the xbox and its just fantastic. Your situation would require two splitters and that would be very touchy.

What do I mean by touchy? Well right now my upmixing setup is very stable with the avrkey as long as the settings are correct and I don't start switching hdmi inputs. I've not exhausted tweaking the AVRkey in this peculiar setup, but for now sometimes things run amuck and one time I couldn't shake it and had to reboot the AVRkey. Very touchy would be having two AVRkeys in the same HDMI chain.

Its exceptionally complicated to do this with most soundbars and if you've got others who must also use and control your system you need to just run. If its just you it may be possible to get state of the art upmixing and Atmos all of the time. If you've got users capable of running the xBox (which is all sorts of awful on its own) then you might be able to have the holy grail of Atmos with HDR and Dolby Vision for a lot of viewing. I'm tickled pink with my setup right now and the avrkey was the final piece of the puzzle.

HDMI Gone Wild - Audio HDMI Chains: (min. upmixed Atmos) Sony X700(Vudu, etc.)
Oppo UDP-203-->LG OLED65B7 and SamsungK950 (4K Atmos discs and files + 2 more subs!)
XboxOneS-->K950 (DTS discs, 2K files, Fandango 2K DTSHD)
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XboxOneS-->K950 (iTunes and Vudu atmos, &Infuse - dd5.1)
Roku Premiere+-->Oppo UDP-203-->K950(Fandango and MA HDR, DD+)
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post #828 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 12:14 AM
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HDfury AVR-Key Help

It’s worth highlighting that upmixing atmos will not result in true atmos sound. It’s simply adding in a fake atmos effect much like the ‘concert hall’ type effects you find on amplifiers.


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post #829 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by meles View Post
I'm using avrkey with ATV4K and Xbox one S (X even better) to upmix Atmos from itunes and the Infuse app on ATV4K which is an awesome media player. Good chance this would work for you, but its not a friendly setup. I'm just in the first days with the avrkey and I need to tweak its settings a bit to get it more stable. The thing that is dicey that I just figured out is stopping my Samsung k950 sound bar from continually switching back to the ARC input. You'd want to be able to disable this type feature on your Yamaha Atmos bar which means you'd always have to switch its hdmi inputs manually. This is a fantastic sounding setup for upmixing especially if you have other TV services.

If you're interested in upmixed sound for your Soundbar you need to get Dolby Access going on the Xbox and get the settings right and just view without HDR for testing purposes. Netflix is just about perfect from the Xbox with HDR and Atmos (Altered Carbon Series is great and if in UK I'd kill to see the new Star Trek series). Vudu just got HDR going along with Dolby Vision on the Xbox and they have a ton of Atmos. Vudu was only Dolby Vision until this November and they've not made all their titles HDR yet as well, but they are making progress. The Xbox is also fantastic with discs that are not Atmos. With the right settings it should upmix all of those to Atmos which is a big, big boost in sound.

The problem you have in my mind is some of the time you'll need a splitter between the xbox and the yamaha Atmos bar to keep your HDR. If you have other devices like ATV4K above and Roku Prem+/Ultra which do Fandango (which if linked right will get you some Vudu titles in HDR for free) they will need to be hooked into hdmi input of xbox to get Atmos, and the xbox hdmi input is just like your soundbar. My K950 Samsung bar passes HDR, so I just have the one splitter between these devices and the xbox and its just fantastic. Your situation would require two splitters and that would be very touchy.

What do I mean by touchy? Well right now my upmixing setup is very stable with the avrkey as long as the settings are correct and I don't start switching hdmi inputs. I've not exhausted tweaking the AVRkey in this peculiar setup, but for now sometimes things run amuck and one time I couldn't shake it and had to reboot the AVRkey. Very touchy would be having two AVRkeys in the same HDMI chain.

Its exceptionally complicated to do this with most soundbars and if you've got others who must also use and control your system you need to just run. If its just you it may be possible to get state of the art upmixing and Atmos all of the time. If you've got users capable of running the xBox (which is all sorts of awful on its own) then you might be able to have the holy grail of Atmos with HDR and Dolby Vision for a lot of viewing. I'm tickled pink with my setup right now and the avrkey was the final piece of the puzzle.

So mate, to be clear, you have 2 x AVR Keys?
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post #830 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 01:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Jango8 View Post
So mate, to be clear, you have 2 x AVR Keys?
No. I only need one. Theoretically you could get by with one, but you'd be switching around HDMI cables depending on whether you were using the xbox as a video source. If not using the xbox as a video source you have it one guide which will pass through video and audio or just audio. You'd split the video directly from the other source to the tv and only use the xbox for upmixing the audio. You have all the tools to do the audio stuff in your hand and test and see if you like it without hdr. If you like it a lot then you split the video with your current setup. Everyone else runs receivers right now.

I'm not overly familiar with the Nvidia shield, but use an Oppo 203 as a media player for Atmos tracks. It splits video from audio for this and discs. If I'd known I was going to go with HDfury I might have gone with the Shield TV in my setup. When playing DTS HD MA audio with 4K I currently use the ATV4K and the ATV4K is set to feed DD5.1 to the Xbox. Roku for Fandangonow in the US sends DD+.

I've been testing more and this setup is pretty stable as long as you aren't physically unplugging sources back and forth on the hdmi input of the AVRkey. Its a bit bizarre for the audio as everything goes into just one hdmi port on the soundbar with the Xbox stuff put aside by the oneguide when using its hdmi input for another source.

Like I say you can try all the Atmos upmixing without HDR for testing purposes and then buy one AVRkey at a time if you want to go slow.

HDMI Gone Wild - Audio HDMI Chains: (min. upmixed Atmos) Sony X700(Vudu, etc.)
Oppo UDP-203-->LG OLED65B7 and SamsungK950 (4K Atmos discs and files + 2 more subs!)
XboxOneS-->K950 (DTS discs, 2K files, Fandango 2K DTSHD)
ATV4K-->AVRkey-->XboxOneS-->K950 (iTunes and Vudu atmos, &Infuse - dd5.1)
Roku Premiere+-->Oppo UDP-203-->K950(Fandango and MA HDR, DD+)
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post #831 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveFi View Post
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075XKS4QX/

Purchased this switch, put it before the AVRKey, it just works. Yay! Full bandwidth 18Gbps, HDR, lossless audio etc. Don't have DV so can't test that. Not bad for a $26 switch.I will program the switch remote into my Harmony Hub activities. Hopefully it doesn't autoswitch by source input. Doesn't seem to. Tried both the Shield and PS4 Pro. No problems so far.

Now I can dump the Pioneer VSX-90 and buy whatever receiver I want.
so this is the only solution to use multiple devices with avrkey?

doesn't @HDfury have a hd auido spliiter with multiple inputs?

i have ps4pro + atv4k so i need 2 avrkeys am i right?
İd defintely go with a hdfury product multiple inputs if they have one, if not your solutions seems quite logical.
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post #832 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Melih Pekcan View Post
so this is the only solution to use multiple devices with avrkey?

doesn't @HDfury have a hd auido spliiter with multiple inputs?

i have ps4pro + atv4k so i need 2 avrkeys am i right?
İd defintely go with a hdfury product multiple inputs if they have one, if not your solutions seems quite logical.

You can use Vertex for 2 inputs and one output at HDR/DV/HLG full video and other at 1080p with FULL AUDIO (doesn't work for 720p/1080i max first HDMI generation AVR)
If AVR is 720p/1080i max and no support for 1080p, then only AVR-Key can work for it.


By the end of the year there will be new device with 4 inputs

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #833 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
You can use Vertex for 2 inputs and one output at HDR/DV/HLG full video and other at 1080p with FULL AUDIO (doesn't work for 720p/1080i max first HDMI generation AVR)
If AVR is 720p/1080i max and no support for 1080p, then only AVR-Key can work for it.


By the end of the year there will be new device with 4 inputs
im using Sony hw700ds headphone set.not sure if it has 1080p audio.

İ Cant wait till the end of this year unfortunately , if my headphone receiver supports would like to buy vertex
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post #834 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Melih Pekcan View Post
im using Sony hw700ds headphone set.not sure if it has 1080p audio.

İ Cant wait till the end of this year unfortunately , if my headphone receiver supports would like to buy vertex

Vertex or AVR-Key, both support Sony HW700, we have many customers using same headphone with both devices.
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Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #835 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 01:15 PM
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So I got my AVRKey recently and it didn't quite turn out like I expected but I did get it to work. Unfortunately it appears my sliders are broken so I will need a replacement ( @HDfury ).

I posted a few pages back what I wanted to accomplish.

My setup:
- Oppo 103D
- Nvidia Shield
- Anthem AVM 60
- JVC RS400

Running my Shield through the 103D and using the 103D's 4k upscaler to my RS400 produced the best results for viewing but had me convert HD audio (TrueHD, DTS-MA), etc to LPCM within in Kodi. Not bad but I lost Atmos and DTSX decoding that way.

I tried the following configuration with some success before going with the AVRKey: Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> Oppo 103D input, 103D output --> RS400

That worked for the most part except when switching refresh rates in Kodi from 24hz to 60hz and back again, it would sometimes freeze up the Oppo player causing me to reboot it. Ultimately that was unacceptable but so close to giving me what I needed though.

In comes the AVRKey...

First try: Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> AVM 60 input 1 --> AVM 60 output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio port out --> AVM 60 input 2 (Change AVM60 input 2 to view video from input 1)

Results: TrueHD movies converted to LPCM. This is what happens when routing Shield directly into the 103D. DTS tracks were silent. My guess is that the EDID information was getting picked up by the 103D which obviously doesn't support TrueHD or MA. Clarification from HDFury would be appreciated in this config as I thought it was straight forward.

I was about to give up and then thought about having the 103D output go straight to the projector instead of coming from the AVM 60.

Second try: Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio out --> AVM 60 input 1

Results: Bingo! Gave me what I needed with one caveat.... I lose all of the AVM60 OSD. Not horrible and could live with it but thought of something else.

Third Try: Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD output --> Oppo 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400

The last setup was essentially the same setup prior to getting the AVRKey but now it doesn't crash the 103D when switching refresh rates. My guess is the AVRKey is keeping the HDMI handshake stable between the devices. I also have my OSD back for the AVM 60. So now I am only using the AVRKey for video and no audio. So far so good and I have only had one glitch since setting it up this way. The video dropped out very briefly in one scene when watching a movie but came right back. That has only happened one time but will keep an eye on it.
@HDfury , any opinions to my experimentation would be appreciated. My guess is that I could have simply gone with your Dr HDMI product and accomplished the same thing? I am fine with the AVRKey since it offers more flexibility so just curious more then anything. Also please let me know what we need to do for any exchange.

I know my situation is unique due to the fact I am routing all 1080p signals and not UHD like the AVRKey was designed for, but I wanted to post this in case it helps someone else in my situation.
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post #836 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLuvin View Post
So I got my AVRKey recently and it didn't quite turn out like I expected but I did get it to work. Unfortunately it appears my sliders are broken so I will need a replacement ( @HDfury ).

I posted a few pages back what I wanted to accomplish.

My setup:
- Oppo 103D
- Nvidia Shield
- Anthem AVM 60
- JVC RS400

Running my Shield through the 103D and using the 103D's 4k upscaler to my RS400 produced the best results for viewing but had me convert HD audio (TrueHD, DTS-MA), etc to LPCM within in Kodi. Not bad but I lost Atmos and DTSX decoding that way.

I tried the following configuration with some success before going with the AVRKey: Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> Oppo 103D input, 103D output --> RS400

That worked for the most part except when switching refresh rates in Kodi from 24hz to 60hz and back again, it would sometimes freeze up the Oppo player causing me to reboot it. Ultimately that was unacceptable but so close to giving me what I needed though.

In comes the AVRKey...

First try: Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> AVM 60 input 1 --> AVM 60 output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio port out --> AVM 60 input 2 (Change AVM60 input 2 to view video from input 1)

Results: TrueHD movies converted to LPCM. This is what happens when routing Shield directly into the 103D. DTS tracks were silent. My guess is that the EDID information was getting picked up by the 103D which obviously doesn't support TrueHD or MA. Clarification from HDFury would be appreciated in this config as I thought it was straight forward.

I was about to give up and then thought about having the 103D output go straight to the projector instead of coming from the AVM 60.

Second try: Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio out --> AVM 60 input 1

Results: Bingo! Gave me what I needed with one caveat.... I lose all of the AVM60 OSD. Not horrible and could live with it but thought of something else.

Third Try: Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD output --> Oppo 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400

The last setup was essentially the same setup prior to getting the AVRKey but now it doesn't crash the 103D when switching refresh rates. My guess is the AVRKey is keeping the HDMI handshake stable between the devices. I also have my OSD back for the AVM 60. So now I am only using the AVRKey for video and no audio. So far so good and I have only had one glitch since setting it up this way. The video dropped out very briefly in one scene when watching a movie but came right back. That has only happened one time but will keep an eye on it.
@HDfury, any opinions to my experimentation would be appreciated. My guess is that I could have simply gone with your Dr HDMI product and accomplished the same thing? I am fine with the AVRKey since it offers more flexibility so just curious more then anything. Also please let me know what we need to do for any exchange.

I know my situation is unique due to the fact I am routing all 1080p signals and not UHD like the AVRKey was designed for, but I wanted to post this in case it helps someone else in my situation.
What do you mean by your sliders are broken ? both at the same time ? are you sure you did not put GUI control ? or did you verified with GUI if they are not locked to GUI control only ?
anyway, if physical hardware issue, send email with your order number , but please verify with GUI first that you haven't set GUI control for the sliders and then it's normal, sliders position have no more effect, only GUI have control over them.


Please try to add screenshot of GUI when trying in system so we can have overview of signal going thru and settings in use. Also please link to previous post if there is some important info in in "I posted a few pages back" > not enough for me, I won't browse pages back to find it, please understand.


Also please understand that in HDMI a device with INPUT and OUTPUT such as AVR or Oppo with input/output, is called a "HDMI repeater" and there is rule in HDMI that does not allow 2 repeater one behind each other without limiting some content, sources or features to work, it might very much work with a few sources not taking care of that, or work with some content not specifically flagged for that, etc.. but it won't work for all devices and for all contents. So it's not recommended.


Therefor the only way to use AVR-Key is SOURCE > AVRKEY > Video out to display, Audio out to AVR.
Of course you can use some devices like you are trying to do, or like others have done with X1X or OPPO203 but then it all depends how equipment is dealing with multiple repeater in the chain and where is AVR-Key in the chain, if AVR-Key is right after source, then it's ok. If not, then it can create issue.


So:

Quote:
Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> Oppo 103D input, 103D output --> RS400
>> In my opinion, this cannot work well because of AVR and OPPO between SOURCE and DISPLAY, so two repeater after each other in the same chain.




Quote:
Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> AVM 60 input 1 --> AVM 60 output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio port out --> AVM 60 input 2 (Change AVM60 input 2 to view video from input 1)

Results: TrueHD movies converted to LPCM. This is what happens when routing Shield directly into the 103D. DTS tracks were silent. My guess is that the EDID information was getting picked up by the 103D which obviously doesn't support TrueHD or MA. Clarification from HDFury would be appreciated in this config as I thought it was straight forward.

>> Impossible to answer or comment without seeing the Windows GUI screenshot to have your settings at that time, still have two repeater one behind each other.



Quote:
Second try: Shield --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD port out --> 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400
--> AVRKey audio out --> AVM 60 input 1

>> That is better configuration and should work perfectly.


Quote:
Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> AVRKey input --> AVRKey UHD output --> Oppo 103D input --> 103D output --> RS400

>> That is also good configuration because AVR-Key is right in between your two repeater, so each repeater doesn't see each other.


Quote:
My guess is that I could have simply gone with your Dr HDMI product and accomplished the same thing?


Dr.HDMI is an EDID manager (to fake or force source based on EDID capabilities), unless I missed something, it is of no use in your setup and could not help you getting this working at all here.
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Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #837 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
What do you mean by your sliders are broken ? both at the same time ? are you sure you did not put GUI control ? or did you verified with GUI if they are not locked to GUI control only ?
anyway, if physical hardware issue, send email with your order number , but please verify with GUI first that you haven't set GUI control for the sliders and then it's normal, sliders position have no more effect, only GUI have control over them.
Actually just the video slider and it's a physical issue. The audio slider seems fine. At first I was trying to use the unit by plug-and-play and putting both sliders in the middle as you suggested previously. The sliders do not boast much confidence in that they are actually locking into the middle position and feel more like a 2 position slider then a 3. After several attempts to verify the middle position for the video slider, the actual plastic piece got to the point of just wiggling and not actually doing anything. I could feel the audio slider slightly moving into place so I knew what to expect. At that point I plugged the unit into my PC and launched the GUI to configure it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Please try to add screenshot of GUI when trying in system so we can have overview of signal going thru and settings in use. Also please link to previous post if there is some important info in in "I posted a few pages back" > not enough for me, I won't browse pages back to find it, please understand.
Nothing really important on my original post. Just used it as a reference but I summarized the situation at the beginning of this post. Attached are the settings I am using.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Also please understand that in HDMI a device with INPUT and OUTPUT such as AVR or Oppo with input/output, is called a "HDMI repeater" and there is rule in HDMI that does not allow 2 repeater one behind each other without limiting some content, sources or features to work, it might very much work with a few sources not taking care of that, or work with some content not specifically flagged for that, etc.. but it won't work for all devices and for all contents. So it's not recommended.
Good information and I am sure that is what my original issue was then.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Therefor the only way to use AVR-Key is SOURCE > AVRKEY > Video out to display, Audio out to AVR.
Of course you can use some devices like you are trying to do, or like others have done with X1X or OPPO203 but then it all depends how equipment is dealing with multiple repeater in the chain and where is AVR-Key in the chain, if AVR-Key is right after source, then it's ok. If not, then it can create issue.

So:
Quote:
Shield --> AVM 60 input 1, AVM 60 Output --> Oppo 103D input, 103D output --> RS400


>> In my opinion, this cannot work well because of AVR and OPPO between SOURCE and DISPLAY, so two repeater after each other in the same chain.

>> Impossible to answer or comment without seeing the Windows GUI screenshot to have your settings at that time, still have two repeater one behind each other.

>> That is better configuration and should work perfectly.

>> That is also good configuration because AVR-Key is right in between your two repeater, so each repeater doesn't see each other.

Dr.HDMI is an EDID manager (to fake or force source based on EDID capabilities), unless I missed something, it is of no use in your setup and could not help you getting this working at all here.
Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I am using the last configuration noted and it is working as desired. I will email you my order specifics in regards to the broken slider.
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post #838 of 1500 Old 03-26-2018, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by McLuvin View Post
Actually just the video slider and it's a physical issue. The audio slider seems fine. At first I was trying to use the unit by plug-and-play and putting both sliders in the middle as you suggested previously. The sliders do not boast much confidence in that they are actually locking into the middle position and feel more like a 2 position slider then a 3. After several attempts to verify the middle position for the video slider, the actual plastic piece got to the point of just wiggling and not actually doing anything. I could feel the audio slider slightly moving into place so I knew what to expect. At that point I plugged the unit into my PC and launched the GUI to configure it.



Nothing really important on my original post. Just used it as a reference but I summarized the situation at the beginning of this post. Attached are the settings I am using.




Good information and I am sure that is what my original issue was then.




Thank you so much for taking the time to respond. I am using the last configuration noted and it is working as desired. I will email you my order specifics in regards to the broken slider.

Yes, please send email with order number so we can send you replacement for the slider physical issue.
When you take GUI screenshot, please try to do with sources and sink connected and working, so we can see the signal going thru, if you did this way, then you need to restart the GUI, you cannot let the GUI open without activity for too long, after some time of inactivity, GUI will close the connection to free resources for the unit as written on the GUI screenshot that you posted. It needs to be restarted.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #839 of 1500 Old 03-27-2018, 09:21 PM
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My AVR Key arrived today. Do I need to update the firmware from the website, or does the unit arrive with latest firmware straight out of the box?
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post #840 of 1500 Old 03-28-2018, 04:50 AM
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This is NOT ok! I have got the new updated version of the avrkey that was suppose to fix the audio dropout issue. NOW, when I first got it the problem seemed solved with Horizon Zero Dawn after that I haven't play for a long time. Today I got Far Cry 5 and guess what audio dropout is back!
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