HDfury AVR-Key Help - Page 49 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1441 of 1500 Old 05-02-2019, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borez View Post
Hi,

Appreciate some advice on the following. My setup is as follows:

Panasonic FZ950 OLED
Nvidia Shield
Denon AVR-4520 (TrueHD/DTS-HD, no Atmos)

As my receiver has no 4K HDR passthrough, I can't output both TrueHD and HDR at the same time. My ideal situation would be to run 4k 24p HDR (or 4K 60p) to my TV, but yet bitstream audio to the receiver. I also occasionally watch Plex/Netflix via the Shield without turning on the receiver.

Given the following, would like to check if:

1) the AVR Key will work in my ideal situation above;
2) the AVR Key will work as a simple passthrough without the AVR Key being powered up
3) if everything will work if the receiver is turned off

Appreciate your thoughts!

BTW saw the AVR Key is discontinued on the webpage. Does that mean a new product is on the horizon?

You can use Integral2 or Vertex for that and it will work beautifully without AVR-Key issues at high bandwidth
1) Yes
2) Unit need to be powered in order to split Video at full speed to display and full hdmi audio to AVR
3) Yes as soon as receiver turns off, then sound will go to TV at TV max audio capabilities.





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Originally Posted by wowzors View Post
My unit is old and from some of the initial batches and the bottom is flat with one circular gold sticker in the corner
Ok, send an email and we will replace it by latest one then you will be perfectly fine.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1442 of 1500 Old 05-02-2019, 12:50 PM
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I am still not sure if the AVR key will work fine on my case: APPLE TV 4K sending Dolby Vision to a Sony 75Z9D and Dolby ATMOS to a Pioneer AV receiver SC97 (not DV compatible). I ONLY use the APPLE TV with original frame rate, almost 100% 24 and not 60 Hz. My understanding is that the overheat happens only with 60Hz and after few hours, is that correct ? If the AVR is not a solution, I'd rather buy a new av receiver than ponny up 300 bucks for the Integral 2.

I was so happy without HDR...
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post #1443 of 1500 Old 05-02-2019, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by slimoli View Post
I am still not sure if the AVR key will work fine on my case: APPLE TV 4K sending Dolby Vision to a Sony 75Z9D and Dolby ATMOS to a Pioneer AV receiver SC97 (not DV compatible). I ONLY use the APPLE TV with original frame rate, almost 100% 24 and not 60 Hz. My understanding is that the overheat happens only with 60Hz and after few hours, is that correct ? If the AVR is not a solution, I'd rather buy a new av receiver than ponny up 300 bucks for the Integral 2.

4K24 is max 450MHz that will work perfectly without any issues.
We have special firmware that seems to solve any sync issue, just request via support server if its needed in your setup.
Integral2 is 249


We do not have any AVR-Key anymore for the moment, if you need one, see from resellers list.
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Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
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post #1444 of 1500 Old 05-06-2019, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Ok, send an email and we will replace it by latest one then you will be perfectly fine.
Replacement received, updated the unit and its working with my xbox one X in DV. I shipped my original back, thanks for the help.
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post #1445 of 1500 Old 05-08-2019, 02:36 PM
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I tried the AVR KEY today, APPLETV 4k sending DV to a Sony 75Z9d and audio to a Pioneer SC97 (ATMOS BUT NO DV). Updated the software to the last version (April 2019) and set the KEY to the middle settings. Everything worked like a charm...for 5 minutes. The thing got VERY hot and video started to drop in DV. All my cables are new, BlueJeans 18GHz certified . Perhaps I got a bad unit but decided to return anyway. The APPLETV had the matching resolution and frame rate to ON and therefore was sending only 24 and not the full 60 Hz.

I was so happy without HDR...
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post #1446 of 1500 Old 05-15-2019, 08:04 AM
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In the past, i had problems
The signal often crashed
So, i bought several new cables, at least 6ft long, also bought those from HDFury.
But the problem was not gone.
After that i got special software from HDFury, that solved my problem as i stated. (thanks HDFury)


So i was wondering, if it was not the cables!
I start using a very short cable, aprox 2ft
it work perfect.
I think the software (public) is more responsebel.

Every thing works fine, no crashesat all sofar
there is only no video with Dolby Vision, only the home menu of the Apple-TV 4K.


But HDR or SDR video is ok


So i am wandering if 6ft cables are a must?

Last edited by CJS.; 05-15-2019 at 08:09 AM.
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post #1447 of 1500 Old 05-15-2019, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJS. View Post
In the past, i had problems
The signal often crashed
So, i bought several new cables, at least 6ft long, also bought those from HDFury.
But the problem was not gone.
After that i got special software from HDFury, that solved my problem as i stated. (thanks HDFury)


So i was wondering, if it was not the cables!
I start using a very short cable, aprox 2ft
it work perfect.
I think the software (public) is more responsebel.

Every thing works fine, no crashesat all sofar
there is only no video with Dolby Vision, only the home menu of the Apple-TV 4K.


But HDR or SDR video is ok


So i am wandering if 6ft cables are a must?

Run the GUI and verify the signal that go thru when it works fine, then try DV and verify signal, normally DV is 600MHz if TV and source are capable of 600MHz, and HDR more likely 4K60 420 10b 375MHz in most movies sources and only 600MHz 4K60 422 12b from some gaming system (that's a roughly approx.)


so if one cable is "so so", it is very much possible that 4K HDR works and DV fails. 2ft can work, but the recommendation is min 6ft max 12ft that is a proven fact since a while and a public recommendation in many usermanual. so when you have issue, you need to follow recommendation to rule things out of equation.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
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post #1448 of 1500 Old 05-16-2019, 06:55 AM
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Arrow AVR-Key Android APP update and GoBlue Firmware update available

There is an updated AVR-Key Android APP available from Google Play, it add support for Android 9.
There is also an updated GoBlue firmware that fix a small bug on iOS.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1449 of 1500 Old 05-17-2019, 04:58 PM
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I just wanted to say i had some initial teething issues with my setup but it has been flawless for maybe a year now? (when i put it in)

it took me 10 minutes of thinking to remember how i cabled everything up. here's a picture

i think i'm running 25 meters of cat5e. it's actually a pair of ethernet cables using the cheapest non-powered hdmi over ethernet you can find ..

edit/

if anyone asks. plays all formats video/audio and when I turn on the apple tv with its remote the tv and avr automatically turn on. the avr also has spotify connect so i can play music via my phone to the avr wirelessly
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post #1450 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 12:24 AM
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Ok, new devices new problems:

I moved the AVRKey into my bedroom with a Shield TV, Sony MDR-DS7500 headphones, Sony 65XBR900E TV and Yamaha ATS-1070 soundbar.

My main problem here is that while I'm able to bitstream lossless audio to the MDR-DS7500 from the Shield just fine, the TV keeps putting a "This audio format is not supported" message on the screen every few minutes.

Is there any way to not bitstream audio to the TV? This is my main problem. If I connect the soundbar to the non-ARC HDMI input the TV puts up a permanent message that the soundbar must be connected to the ARC HDMI input to work.

Another thing I noticed- my soundbar doesn't support DD+ but the Shield only outputs from Netflix using DD+ for surround. When using the AVRKey the DD light on my soundbar is on but there's no sound. Is there a way to fix this?

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Last edited by DaveFi; 05-18-2019 at 01:12 AM.
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post #1451 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 05:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveFi View Post
Ok, new devices new problems:

I moved the AVRKey into my bedroom with a Shield TV, Sony MDR-DS7500 headphones, Sony 65XBR900E TV and Yamaha ATS-1070 soundbar.

My main problem here is that while I'm able to bitstream lossless audio to the MDR-DS7500 from the Shield just fine, the TV keeps putting a "This audio format is not supported" message on the screen every few minutes.

Is there any way to not bitstream audio to the TV? This is my main problem. If I connect the soundbar to the non-ARC HDMI input the TV puts up a permanent message that the soundbar must be connected to the ARC HDMI input to work.

Another thing I noticed- my soundbar doesn't support DD+ but the Shield only outputs from Netflix using DD+ for surround. When using the AVRKey the DD light on my soundbar is on but there's no sound. Is there a way to fix this?
If you don't want audio to TV, then you run Windows GUI and check the option that disable audio going to TV and that's it.
If your soundbar does not support DD+ there is no way to get it working with DD+, make sure AVR key have both slides on mid position and restart shield, if Shield still send DD+ when both slides are in mid position, then shield have an issue here. (sending DD+ to non DD+ capable device)

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post #1452 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
If you don't want audio to TV, then you run Windows GUI and check the option that disable audio going to TV and that's it.
If your soundbar does not support DD+ there is no way to get it working with DD+, make sure AVR key have both slides on mid position and restart shield, if Shield still send DD+ when both slides are in mid position, then shield have an issue here. (sending DD+ to non DD+ capable device)
OK, I don't have a laptop which makes connecting to a PC inconvenient. In any event I put both switches in the middle and reset the AVRKey which seemed to solve the problem for the moment. I guess I'll have to use my Fire Tv Stick to get DD output as it converts everything to DD.

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post #1453 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveFi View Post
OK, I don't have a laptop which makes connecting to a PC inconvenient. In any event I put both switches in the middle and reset the AVRKey which seemed to solve the problem for the moment. I guess I'll have to use my Fire Tv Stick to get DD output as it converts everything to DD.
Yes, connecting to laptop is important as you need to be sure of FW running and muting sound option as you want it is accessible there (or via Android/iOS APP if you have GoBlue)

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
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post #1454 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 12:37 PM
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Yes, connecting to laptop is important as you need to be sure of FW running and muting sound option as you want it is accessible there (or via Android/iOS APP if you have GoBlue)
The main issue is that I still need the sound output so I can get sound to both my soundbar and my Sony headphones. My TV will automatically downconvert all DD+ material from the Shield to DD, but only if I use ARC. Using ARC causes the issues with the warning messages on the TV when I bitstream lossless to the headphones.

It's all very confusing to me, especially since, unlike the Vizio I have, Sony doesn't give me an option to turn off ARC on the TV. That would solve some of the problems I'm having.

Connecting all my devices directly to the soundbar is ideal because, as we know, ARC cannot output more than 2 PCM channels, and all of my devices output surround in PCM (Playstation 4, Shield, etc).

I'll sort it out.

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post #1455 of 1500 Old 05-18-2019, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveFi View Post
The main issue is that I still need the sound output so I can get sound to both my soundbar and my Sony headphones. My TV will automatically downconvert all DD+ material from the Shield to DD, but only if I use ARC. Using ARC causes the issues with the warning messages on the TV when I bitstream lossless to the headphones.

It's all very confusing to me, especially since, unlike the Vizio I have, Sony doesn't give me an option to turn off ARC on the TV. That would solve some of the problems I'm having.

Connecting all my devices directly to the soundbar is ideal because, as we know, ARC cannot output more than 2 PCM channels, and all of my devices output surround in PCM (Playstation 4, Shield, etc).

I'll sort it out.

If you cannot turn off ARC, then more likely you can turn off CEC, should be equal results.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
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post #1456 of 1500 Old 06-15-2019, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
There is no real comparison between both, AVR-Key mainly serve one purpose only.
While Vertex can do way more.

Yes it accepts 2 sources and can upscale/downscale any output at will while performing chroma, color depth, hdcp and metadata changes.

AVR-Key is running hot, while Vertex really cool.
Yes you can improve AVR-Key perf by having a cooling device placed underneath, this can be needed in closed environment or if room temp is above 30 Celsius degrees in order to extend the playback time before a small dropout can be hear.



HDFURY - i have an AVRKey at the moment but I need one more input. Should I buy the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz, as this has 2 x inputs?
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post #1457 of 1500 Old 06-16-2019, 03:00 AM
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HDFURY - i have an AVRKey at the moment but I need one more input. Should I buy the Vertex 4K60 4:4:4 600MHz, as this has 2 x inputs?

Yes, or Integral2, it's the same device without the OLED screen so a bit cheaper.

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post #1458 of 1500 Old 06-16-2019, 04:33 AM
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Would a 4K HDR compatible HDMI Matrix (like a 4in x 2out) work the same as a Vertex or Integral 2?
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post #1459 of 1500 Old 06-16-2019, 12:53 PM
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Would a 4K HDR compatible HDMI Matrix (like a 4in x 2out) work the same as a Vertex or Integral 2?

Yes may be, but if AVR-Key works well and your third party matrix introduction fails, then you are on your own or on the third party matrix support team (if any).
Vertex2 can do all that in one device. 4 inputs, 2 video out + 1 audio out + many others you will never find anywhere else (tmds autoswitch, eARC to AVR input, etc..)

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post #1460 of 1500 Old 07-02-2019, 03:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by borez View Post

BTW saw the AVR Key is discontinued on the webpage. Does that mean a new product is on the horizon?
I have the same question... There's still AVR keys out there, perhaps I'll just get one anyway. No less expensive options that I can see...

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post #1461 of 1500 Old 07-02-2019, 04:56 AM
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I have the same question... There's still AVR keys out there, perhaps I'll just get one anyway. No less expensive options that I can see...
You can try the audio extractor linked below. It's less expensive than the avr key.

ViewHD UHD 18G HDMI Audio Extractor/Splitter Support HDMI v2.0 | HDCP v2.2 | [email protected] | HDR | ARC | 3.5MM Analog Audio Output | Toslink Optical Audio Output | HDMI Audio Output | Model: VHD-UHAE2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755TB82Q..._By0gDbECWQAPR

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post #1462 of 1500 Old 07-02-2019, 04:19 PM
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You can try the audio extractor linked below. It's less expensive than the avr key.

ViewHD UHD 18G HDMI Audio Extractor/Splitter Support HDMI v2.0 | HDCP v2.2 | [email protected] | HDR | ARC | 3.5MM Analog Audio Output | Toslink Optical Audio Output | HDMI Audio Output | Model: VHD-UHAE2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0755TB82Q..._By0gDbECWQAPR

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Hey thanks! I wasn't really finding this on my own, so glad you shared.

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post #1463 of 1500 Old 07-02-2019, 04:28 PM
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One more question. If you get a device like AVR Key or the one a couple posts ago, can you put an HDMI switch in front of it like this:

ROOFULL 3 in 1 Out HDMI 2.0 Switch 4K 60Hz HDR HDCP 2.2 Dolby Vision 1080P 3D, 3x1 HDMI 2.0 Switcher with IR Remote

I couldn't offhand see why that wouldn't work...

Then I can hook up to 3 HDMI devices to an AVR-Key or other HDMI Audio out device, hook the HDMI Audio to my Marantz SR7009 (and get Dolby Atmos!), and the other output to input 2 on my projector. Input 1 on the projector would come from the AVR for non-UHD sources. With the remote to the HDMI switch, I can control everything without having to move cables or anything...

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post #1464 of 1500 Old 07-02-2019, 05:12 PM
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Hey thanks! I wasn't really finding this on my own, so glad you shared.
You're welcome.

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post #1465 of 1500 Old 07-09-2019, 01:12 AM
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Hello,


I cannot get the HDFury AVRKey to send digital audio from my 4K HDTV to my receiver.


I'm grateful for any help.


Symptoms:


1. No sound from receiver. Receiver display does not show that audio signal is present.
2. Blue light on AVRKey stays ON when USB power is disconnected. It goes OFF when USB power is connected. This is opposite of expected behavior.
3. All cables are USB 2.0 18 Gbps.
4. Tried all settings of slider switches.
5. Tried soft reset / power off.
6. Tried HDMI OUT 2.0, 1.4, Auto compatibility.
7. Tried CEC ON / OFF on TV.

8. Tried CEC "Search for devices" on TV.

9. Confirmed setting digital input to HDMI and cable to correct input on receiver.



Source:
  • TCL 49” CLASS 4-SERIES 4K UHD HDR ROKU SMART TV - MODEL 49S405
Audio out is via HDMI ARC.





Receiver:



DENON AVR-4306
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post #1466 of 1500 Old 07-09-2019, 02:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fredric100 View Post
Hello,


I cannot get the HDFury AVRKey to send digital audio from my 4K HDTV to my receiver.


I'm grateful for any help.


Symptoms:


1. No sound from receiver. Receiver display does not show that audio signal is present.
2. Blue light on AVRKey stays ON when USB power is disconnected. It goes OFF when USB power is connected. This is opposite of expected behavior.
3. All cables are USB 2.0 18 Gbps.
4. Tried all settings of slider switches.
5. Tried soft reset / power off.
6. Tried HDMI OUT 2.0, 1.4, Auto compatibility.
7. Tried CEC ON / OFF on TV.

8. Tried CEC "Search for devices" on TV.

9. Confirmed setting digital input to HDMI and cable to correct input on receiver.





Source:
  • TCL 49” CLASS 4-SERIES 4K UHD HDR ROKU SMART TV - MODEL 49S405
Audio out is via HDMI ARC.





Receiver:



DENON AVR-4306


AVR-Key is made to extract sound from HDMI SOURCE ONLY !!
It cannot extract ARC sound from TV.


Only devices in the world capable of extracting ARC/eARC from TV and HDMI sound from source and forward to ANY AVR input are: Maestro/Diva and Vertex2.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.

Last edited by HDfury; 07-09-2019 at 11:37 AM.
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post #1467 of 1500 Old 07-09-2019, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
AVR-Key is made to extract sound from HDMI SOURCE ONLY !!
It cannot extract ARC sound from TV.


Only devices in the world capable of extracting ARC/eARC and HDMI sound from source and forward to ANY AVR input are: Maestro/Diva and Vertex2.

I see, thank you. That was not clear from any of the product information I read prior to purchasing the AVRKey.

In this case, I will buy an external 4K Roku to use as the input for the AVRKey. I think this is the cheapest solution, even though it is redundant with the internal Roku in my TV.
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post #1468 of 1500 Old 07-10-2019, 09:58 AM
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I had the AVR-key working flawlessly with an LG OLED but I have now picked up a Panasonic GZ950 and it [AVR-key] won't pass DV from the Apple TV 4K to the TV anymore. Material from Netflix that are in DV are indicated as "HDR" by TV.
If I remove the AVR-Key from the setup and connect the Apple TV directly to TV it works, but then no sound through the preamp of course. Same cables (4K certified), same setup that worked with the LG. Sound/video slider are both set to middle position (BOT).

| Panasonic TX-65GZ960E | Classé Sigma SSP | Oppo UHD-203 | Classé Sigma AMP5 | KEF R7 | KEF R2c | SVS Prime Elevation | Lumin D1 w/ LPS | REL Storm III | Rega RP6 w/ Dynavector 10x5 | RIAA Harmony Design V9 |
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post #1469 of 1500 Old 07-10-2019, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by sohe68 View Post
I had the AVR-key working flawlessly with an LG OLED but I have now picked up a Panasonic GZ950 and it [AVR-key] won't pass DV from the Apple TV 4K to the TV anymore. Material from Netflix that are in DV are indicated as "HDR" by TV.
If I remove the AVR-Key from the setup and connect the Apple TV directly to TV it works, but then no sound through the preamp of course. Same cables (4K certified), same setup that worked with the LG. Sound/video slider are both set to middle position (BOT).
Not sure what you mean by "middle position (BOT)" it's either middle or BOT or TOP.


Just run Windows GUI when trying DV movies and take GUI screenshot and post it here please.


Make sure you restart ATV after you insert AVR-Key in the chain.


One possible problem here could be that Panasonic EDID is already full since they have support for Atmos audio, HDR10+, ALLM, DV, etc.. and mixing it with sound system EDID may be there is not enough space to create an edid mix that takes everything.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.

Last edited by HDfury; 07-10-2019 at 10:13 AM.
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post #1470 of 1500 Old 07-10-2019, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Not sure what you mean by "middle position (BOT)" it's either middle or BOT or TOP.


Just run Windows GUI when trying DV movies and take GUI screenshot and post it here please.


Make sure you restart ATV after you insert AVR-Key in the chain.


One possible problem here could be that Panasonic EDID is already full since they have support for Atmos audio, HDR10+, ALLM, DV, etc.. and mixing it with sound system EDID may be there is not enough space to create an edid mix that takes everything.

Here's a screenshot while playing Dolby Vision material from Apple Tv through AVR-Key.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

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| Panasonic TX-65GZ960E | Classé Sigma SSP | Oppo UHD-203 | Classé Sigma AMP5 | KEF R7 | KEF R2c | SVS Prime Elevation | Lumin D1 w/ LPS | REL Storm III | Rega RP6 w/ Dynavector 10x5 | RIAA Harmony Design V9 |
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