HDfury AVR-Key Help - Page 51 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1501 of 1539 Old 11-17-2019, 06:57 AM
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I updated to FW1.623.218 and I am getting screen dropouts with dolby vision after the update. I was fine before the update other than sometimes on dolby vision i got some green flicker at the bottom of the screen so I updated. both sliders are in the mid position.

2019 shield tv pro and LG C9 . Using Disney+

Do i need the special version?

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post #1502 of 1539 Old 11-17-2019, 08:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
I updated to FW1.623.218 and I am getting screen dropouts with dolby vision after the update. I was fine before the update other than sometimes on dolby vision i got some green flicker at the bottom of the screen so I updated. both sliders are in the mid position.

2019 shield tv pro and LG C9 . Using Disney+

Do i need the special version?
Yes we can try special version, send PM or join support server.
But please confirm cable length and brand you are using at input and output.

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post #1503 of 1539 Old 11-17-2019, 08:50 AM
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They are 6ft Monoprice premium high speed

just joined discord support to ask for firmware

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Last edited by jbalsor; 11-17-2019 at 09:46 AM.
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post #1504 of 1539 Old 11-17-2019, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
They are 6ft Monoprice premium high speed

just joined discord support to ask for firmware
You should replace by Kabledirekt, bluejeanscable or our cables in min 6ft, max 12ft.

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post #1505 of 1539 Old 11-19-2019, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
You should replace by Kabledirekt, bluejeanscable or our cables in min 6ft, max 12ft.
Should I replace all three cables connected to the AVRKey? or just the two carrying the video signal.

And are these suitable?:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Ultra-Co...4166470&sr=8-3


These are the cables I have:

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-1154...tronics&sr=1-3

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Last edited by jbalsor; 11-19-2019 at 05:39 AM.
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post #1506 of 1539 Old 11-19-2019, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
Should I replace all three cables connected to the AVRKey? or just the two carrying the video signal.

And are these suitable?:

https://www.amazon.ca/Cable-Ultra-Co...4166470&sr=8-3


These are the cables I have:

https://www.amazon.ca/Monoprice-1154...tronics&sr=1-3
Yes I think any Kabledirekt serie is good enough, people mostly use the one with blueband, but I guess any will work perfectly.
You just need to replace the 2 for video, no need to replace audio one (low bandwidth here)

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post #1507 of 1539 Old 11-19-2019, 12:52 PM
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But if my current setup is working then no need to switch cable brands from Monoprice that I have now?

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post #1508 of 1539 Old 11-19-2019, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
But if my current setup is working then no need to switch cable brands from Monoprice that I have now?
Yes but that's not what you said, above you wrote you have dropout with DV, DV travels at 600MHz/18Gbps on any recent TV, while HDR10 will more likely travel at 375 or 450MHz (4K24 444 12b or 4K60 420 20b).

so if HDR no drop out and DV have drop out > then this indicates cable issue.

Mostly no cables have issues with 375MHz or 450MHz, that's why people think their cables are working, in reality its exactly around 600MHz (max possible) that the cable issue are present. so if you never play any 600MHz content and only have issue with DV (which is more likely 600MHz) then it's a cable issue.

You can see bandwidth on signal travelling thru if you run windows GUI while trying DV.
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post #1509 of 1539 Old 11-20-2019, 05:05 AM
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Thanks for the explanation, Ive had no issues with DV since I put the other firmware on. Fingers crossed
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post #1510 of 1539 Old 11-23-2019, 08:08 AM
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post #1511 of 1539 Old 11-25-2019, 01:50 AM
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I bought via Amazon Germany on Dec. 8, 2017 a:

HDFury HDF0100 AVR Key.
It is in silver without extra heatsinks
I updated the firmware to 1.619.218 when it came out
I moved into a new home
I replaced my TV
It works now with an Apple TV4K, a LG OLED 65C9, a Yamaha YSP 5600.
All is set to work automatically.
The TV displays receiving a Dolby Vision signal or HDR when expected.
All works fine

But

Switching content on the Apple TV4k which includes switching from SDR to HDR or DV in any way will result in a black screen before the TV will display the new picture. This black screen lasts approximately 1 to 2 seconds. It is a nuisance I'd like to get rid off. Question is how?

I am excluding the HDMI cables. They are state of the art. Ultra HDTV 8k HDMI 2.1, 48 Gbit/s. 2 meter. All three of them just to be safe.

What could be the reason. Old firmware, old hardware, temperature, the TV set itself?

Will a firmware update help? Shall I buy a new AVR-Key? Anything else to consider?
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post #1512 of 1539 Old 11-25-2019, 03:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vau View Post
I bought via Amazon Germany on Dec. 8, 2017 a:

HDFury HDF0100 AVR Key.
It is in silver without extra heatsinks
I updated the firmware to 1.619.218 when it came out
I moved into a new home
I replaced my TV
It works now with an Apple TV4K, a LG OLED 65C9, a Yamaha YSP 5600.
All is set to work automatically.
The TV displays receiving a Dolby Vision signal or HDR when expected.
All works fine

But

Switching content on the Apple TV4k which includes switching from SDR to HDR or DV in any way will result in a black screen before the TV will display the new picture. This black screen lasts approximately 1 to 2 seconds. It is a nuisance I'd like to get rid off. Question is how?

I am excluding the HDMI cables. They are state of the art. Ultra HDTV 8k HDMI 2.1, 48 Gbit/s. 2 meter. All three of them just to be safe.

What could be the reason. Old firmware, old hardware, temperature, the TV set itself?

Will a firmware update help? Shall I buy a new AVR-Key? Anything else to consider?
See private message, may be that firmware will help a bit.


However, what you should know here is that changing res, chroma, frame rate, color space, color depth or hdcp version in signal, will result in a resync.
when you connect SOURCE to DISPLAY directly, even there, there is such resync, but since TV panel forward directly to led driver, you might not realize it as its very fast but if you insert an AVR in the chain, you would see the exact same thing, the whole chain resync and that give 1 or 2sec blackscreen before picture comes back. The more devices you insert in a chain, the more delay you would notice when resync happens.

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post #1513 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
See private message, may be that firmware will help a bit.


However, what you should know here is that changing res, chroma, frame rate, color space, color depth or hdcp version in signal, will result in a resync.
when you connect SOURCE to DISPLAY directly, even there, there is such resync, but since TV panel forward directly to led driver, you might not realize it as its very fast but if you insert an AVR in the chain, you would see the exact same thing, the whole chain resync and that give 1 or 2sec blackscreen before picture comes back. The more devices you insert in a chain, the more delay you would notice when resync happens.
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate that outstanding customer support of yours.

My chain is:

apple tv4k --> AVR Key
AVR Key --> LG OLED 65C9 (video)
--> Yamaha YSP 5600 (audio)

is that a 3 devices chain or a 4 devices chain from your point of view?

Would setting up the Apple TV 4k to 4k Dolby Vision and deactivating "Match Dynamic Range" and "Match Frame Rate" reduce the handshaking events because the Apple TV will alway send the same signals regardless of the source it uses?
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post #1514 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Vau View Post
Thanks a lot. I really appreciate that outstanding customer support of yours.

My chain is:

apple tv4k --> AVR Key
AVR Key --> LG OLED 65C9 (video)
--> Yamaha YSP 5600 (audio)

is that a 3 devices chain or a 4 devices chain from your point of view?

Would setting up the Apple TV 4k to 4k Dolby Vision and deactivating "Match Dynamic Range" and "Match Frame Rate" reduce the handshaking events because the Apple TV will alway send the same signals regardless of the source it uses?
ATV4K > Display is direct.
ATV4K > AVRKEY > DISPLAY is one device in the middle, same will be if there was an AVR placed there.


Yes, turning those options off should help but please first try with FW I sent, may be it solves everything for you already. (Also update your FPGA firmware version to latest please)

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Last edited by HDfury; 11-26-2019 at 09:26 AM.
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post #1515 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 08:58 AM
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I have a similar setup and have always had a 1-3 second black screen while switching. Isnt that completely normal?

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post #1516 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbalsor View Post
I have a similar setup and have always had a 1-3 second black screen while switching. Isnt that completely normal?


Yes it is, especially if you have special firmware, then you have fastest resync possible already.
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post #1517 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 01:49 PM
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Just received mine in the mail. It is working great so far. Only thing though is there a way to turn soundbar off? It doesnt turn off with cec. The nvidia shield does not let me use IR for some reason. Nvidia shield -> AvrKey->tv video out & soundbar audio out
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post #1518 of 1539 Old 11-26-2019, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Omar Murillo View Post
Just received mine in the mail. It is working great so far. Only thing though is there a way to turn soundbar off? It doesnt turn off with cec. The nvidia shield does not let me use IR for some reason. Nvidia shield -> AvrKey->tv video out & soundbar audio out


If you want soundbar to turn off via CEC, then just connect soundbar output to TV, TV is root in CEC, if your device is not seen by your TV, then no device in CEC network can control it. (that's how CEC works, google it if you need more info on how CEC works)

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post #1519 of 1539 Old 11-27-2019, 02:10 PM
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Okay thanks, I have encountered another issue. I am receiving audio drop out randomly. I looked up the issue and saw other people having this issue in 2017. I am getting drop outs every 15min or so while playing DD+. It looks like you replaced units but that was 2 years ago. Did I get an old unit or what because it looked like the issue was fixed with new hardware fix? What should I do? I got it from amazon this week.
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post #1520 of 1539 Old 11-27-2019, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Omar Murillo View Post
Okay thanks, I have encountered another issue. I am receiving audio drop out randomly. I looked up the issue and saw other people having this issue in 2017. I am getting drop outs every 15min or so while playing DD+. It looks like you replaced units but that was 2 years ago. Did I get an old unit or what because it looked like the issue was fixed with new hardware fix? What should I do? I got it from amazon this week.
okay so i just saw on the HDfury website that audio drop outs still occur 3-5hours. 7 hours with new heatsink so i answered my own question..It says to consider the integral2. So my next question, does integral2 not have audio issues? Thanks
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post #1521 of 1539 Old 11-28-2019, 12:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar Murillo View Post
Okay thanks, I have encountered another issue. I am receiving audio drop out randomly. I looked up the issue and saw other people having this issue in 2017. I am getting drop outs every 15min or so while playing DD+. It looks like you replaced units but that was 2 years ago. Did I get an old unit or what because it looked like the issue was fixed with new hardware fix? What should I do? I got it from amazon this week.

If you bought it from Amazon, then read usermanual to install driver first and then connect AVR-Key to computer to update firmware, if you are running older firmware then you can improve performance with latest firmware.
Make sure you set both slides in mid position (or at least AUDIO slide in mid position)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Omar Murillo View Post
okay so i just saw on the HDfury website that audio drop outs still occur 3-5hours. 7 hours with new heatsink so i answered my own question..It says to consider the integral2. So my next question, does integral2 not have audio issues? Thanks
None of our devices except AVR-Key have such issue, this is because of the method used, which allow cheaper solution but have that drawback. Issue manifest at high bandwidth only, so if you play the usual 4K60 420 10b HDR, you are safe from it.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
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post #1522 of 1539 Old 11-28-2019, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post

Yes, turning those options off should help but please first try with FW I sent, may be it solves everything for you already. (Also update your FPGA firmware version to latest please)
At first I had the impression, that there was a seamless switch after having installed all those updates including the one you sent. A couple of source switchings within the Apple TV 4k later all returned back. 1 to 3 seconds of complete black screen (not the one with the turning indicator) at nearly all content changes between, SD, HDR, DV.

Using an always on forced dv gets completely rid of the switching blackouts. And this is not how the Apple TV 4k shall be used?
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post #1523 of 1539 Old 11-28-2019, 08:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vau View Post
At first I had the impression, that there was a seamless switch after having installed all those updates including the one you sent. A couple of source switchings within the Apple TV 4k later all returned back. 1 to 3 seconds of complete black screen (not the one with the turning indicator) at nearly all content changes between, SD, HDR, DV.

Using an always on forced dv gets completely rid of the switching blackouts. And this is not how the Apple TV 4k shall be used?

Yes, if DV forced then signal does not change then no resync, if content based like mostly all sources are today, then any content change, there is a resync.
the only device that avoid such resync at 4K is LRP (cost 7000$) and yet I'm not sure this apply to DV even with such expensive piece of equipment/hardware.

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post #1524 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 08:38 AM
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Hello, I recently got a AVR key and I'm trying to set it up. It got delivered from amazon with no power supply and I'm having problems on trying to understand if it's broken or if it isn't getting enough power. I'm using the phone charger that you can see in the picture and when I connect it to the power supply the logo turn on like in the picture and I don't have any signal. What I'm doing wrong?
My connection is Sony 55A1 to uhd/hdr in and Apple TV 4K in uhd/hdr out and Sony HW700DS in avr audio.
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post #1525 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 10:09 AM
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Hello, I recently got a AVR key and I'm trying to set it up. It got delivered from amazon with no power supply and I'm having problems on trying to understand if it's broken or if it isn't getting enough power. I'm using the phone charger that you can see in the picture and when I connect it to the power supply the logo turn on like in the picture and I don't have any signal. What I'm doing wrong?
My connection is Sony 55A1 to uhd/hdr in and Apple TV 4K in uhd/hdr out and Sony HW700DS in avr audio.


Problem if you buy on Amazon most of the time is:


- You are getting an older device (not latest revision with revised heatsink)
- Seller usually never include PSU and will want to sell you that separately, while all our devices are shipped with PSU.
- The firmware on the unit is more likely an old one.


So, for Power, you need min 5V2A which the PSU you are using seem capable of doing (according to your pic, I can see output 5V2A)
For Firmware, you need to install drivers on your computer and then connect AVR-Key and run Windows GUI to see which firmware is on your unit and update it if needed. (see AVR-Key usermanual for step by step)


Then when you try in system, put both slides on mid position.


You will also need make sure that you have very good cable for SOURCE to AVR-Key and then from AVR-Key to Display (cable going to audio system is not important in quality)
Get Kabledirekt, bluejeanscables or our cables, min 6ft/ max 12ft for copper.
The cable supplied with ATV4K should be good enough, but then you still need a second one capable of 18Gbps/600MHz

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1526 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Problem if you buy on Amazon most of the time is:


- You are getting an older device (not latest revision with revised heatsink)
- Seller usually never include PSU and will want to sell you that separately, while all our devices are shipped with PSU.
- The firmware on the unit is more likely an old one.


So, for Power, you need min 5V2A which the PSU you are using seem capable of doing (according to your pic, I can see output 5V2A)
For Firmware, you need to install drivers on your computer and then connect AVR-Key and run Windows GUI to see which firmware is on your unit and update it if needed. (see AVR-Key usermanual for step by step)


Then when you try in system, put both slides on mid position.


You will also need make sure that you have very good cable for SOURCE to AVR-Key and then from AVR-Key to Display (cable going to audio system is not important in quality)
Get Kabledirekt, bluejeanscables or our cables, min 6ft/ max 12ft for copper.
The cable supplied with ATV4K should be good enough, but then you still need a second one capable of 18Gbps/600MHz

Thanks, but is it getting enough power? I checked a video on youtube and logo when it's on seems much brighter.
I tried to update the firmware but the gui on the lower left show this error "error reading values", I tried on different computers.
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post #1527 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 10:36 AM
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Thanks, but is it getting enough power? I checked a video on youtube and logo when it's on seems much brighter.
I tried to update the firmware but the gui on the lower left show this error "error reading values", I tried on different computers.


If PSU offers 5V2A then yes you are getting enough power. from the PIC you sent, it seems the case.
Now of course, feel free to try another PSU if you think the current one is not giving enough power, but so far that does not seem to be an issue here unless proven otherwise.

If you download latest firmware package, then you FIRST need to update FW before GUI can do anything. Each GUI is made to work with the FW it comes with.


I hope you installed drivers before connecting AVR-Key, otherwise you are good to remove the drivers installed by windows (program files > remove any reference to silabs, silicon laboratories, USBxpress, ...) reboot, re install correct driver, reboot, connect AVR-Key and proceed with MCU and FPGA update. Just follow usermanual, it is clear enough.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1528 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
If PSU offers 5V2A then yes you are getting enough power. from the PIC you sent, it seems the case.
Now of course, feel free to try another PSU if you think the current one is not giving enough power, but so far that does not seem to be an issue here unless proven otherwise.

If you download latest firmware package, then you FIRST need to update FW before GUI can do anything. Each GUI is made to work with the FW it comes with.


I hope you installed drivers before connecting AVR-Key, otherwise you are good to remove the drivers installed by windows (program files > remove any reference to silabs, silicon laboratories, USBxpress, ...) reboot, re install correct driver, reboot, connect AVR-Key and proceed with MCU and FPGA update. Just follow usermanual, it is clear enough.

Yes, I followed the usermanual. MCU went fine but FPGA is giving me this error "error setting block index mode" and still no signal at all. The hdmi cables are fine they work with everything I have. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here was really looking foward to try those headphones.
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post #1529 of 1539 Old 11-30-2019, 01:21 PM
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Yes, I followed the usermanual. MCU went fine but FPGA is giving me this error "error setting block index mode" and still no signal at all. The hdmi cables are fine they work with everything I have. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here was really looking foward to try those headphones.


Are you sure you tested your HDMI cable from SOURCE to DISPLAY direct playing 18Gbps/600MHz timing ?
If you are not sure or don't know what a 18Gbps/600MHz signal is exactly then just follow my recommendations please.
I have solved enough similar cases and proven that hundreds time if not thousand to not have to argue again and again about that.
And if you are so sure your cables are good for 600MHz/18Gbps, then which brand ? which length are they ?



if FPGA update didn't worked, then something is wrong, restart computer try from another usb port or another computer, make sure you only run one software a at a time. and post GUI screenshot.


For visitors and readers, order from HDfury.com if you don't want to have to deal with old firmware, missing PSU and old revision unit.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.

Last edited by HDfury; 11-30-2019 at 03:57 PM.
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post #1530 of 1539 Old 12-04-2019, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Are you sure you tested your HDMI cable from SOURCE to DISPLAY direct playing 18Gbps/600MHz timing ?
If you are not sure or don't know what a 18Gbps/600MHz signal is exactly then just follow my recommendations please.
I have solved enough similar cases and proven that hundreds time if not thousand to not have to argue again and again about that.
And if you are so sure your cables are good for 600MHz/18Gbps, then which brand ? which length are they ?



if FPGA update didn't worked, then something is wrong, restart computer try from another usb port or another computer, make sure you only run one software a at a time. and post GUI screenshot.


For visitors and readers, order from HDfury.com if you don't want to have to deal with old firmware, missing PSU and old revision unit.

The cables I'm using are this one https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B01...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and never had drop out when playing 4k DV content on the apple TV but I followed your advise and got a couple of kabeldirekt cables but still no signal. This unit was sold directly by amazon so I'm returing it and trying another one. Thanks for the support.
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