HDFURY Linker owners thread - Page 27 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #781 of 1237 Old 05-30-2018, 07:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drdoom2k View Post
Thanks for that - will give them a go as I have found the AmazonBasic 2.0 cables to be fairly unreliable - is this consistent with your experience as well?

Yes, lot of issues with amazon basic

Quote:
Originally Posted by seplant View Post
Another Epson owner posted on the 5040 owner's thread that he found in another thread how to disable the second input on the Linker, and that seemed to make the performance consistent for him. Is there a way to disable the second input on the Linker?
What they meant by that is that if you turn OFF AUTOSWITCH (so you always have to manually switch input if more than one connected), you will save some sync times which can have an impact on sync performance as sometimes handshake failure comes from some few ms dropped there and there. It might work or not , I mean improve your sync or not, all depends the initial conditions, brand/model, length, etc... it's something you have to test to find out if it helps.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #782 of 1237 Old 05-30-2018, 03:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Yes, lot of issues with amazon basic


Installed the KabelDirekt cables (3x) last night, seems to have solved all my handshake issues - really impressed (and equally disappointed with Amazon Basics) with how smooth the experience can be with compatible cables! Thanks for all the help, @HDfury .
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post #783 of 1237 Old 06-01-2018, 02:46 PM
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Hoping someone can help me out because I am pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff. I have JVC 520RS, Anthem 720, Oppo UDP-203, Apple 4K and Pioneer PRO-151FD 1080p Television. When I got the Oppo, my old HDMI cable wouldn't pass 4k to the JVC so I replaced it with an RUIPRO fiber optic. That is when the problems started. Even with the JVC power off, the RUIPRO cause the Pioneer on Apple TV to pulse on and off and never lock on. If I unplug the projector HDMI cable, the issue goes away.



After doing a lot of reading, I bought the HDFury Linker. Last night I installed it between the Anthem and the Pioneer TV, set it to downscale and left the EDID on the center position. Problem solved, or so I thought, pulsing stopped with the JVC fiber cable plugged in. Then I switched to the projector and the JVC pulled 4k from the Apple TV... so far so good. But when I switched back to the Pioneer, the picture came up, but all the colors were washed out. The Apple TV was still outputting 4K but it was not downscaling it properly for the Pioneer plasma. I tried moving the switch to fixed EDID, but this caused it to start pulsing again and not locking onto the Anthem HDMI output. I powered the Anthem off and back on and it pulled the Apple TV back to 1080p with a good picture.



The thing is I don't want to have to shut it on and off when switching between my displays. Can one of the experts here tell me what settings I should have the HD Linker on so that the Apple TV stays on 4k resolution but correctly downscales the picture so the Apple can just stay on 4k? I don't have the GUI set up but I can do that if necessary to set it to a custom setting.



Actually, I watch the Pioneer alot more than the JVC since the room is not light controlled and all of my movie watching has to be at night. If there is another way to set it up so that the Apple TV just stays in 1080p all the time until I use it with the projector but correctly switches back I am good with that too. Any help anyone can give would be much appreciated.
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post #784 of 1237 Old 06-01-2018, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Hoping someone can help me out because I am pretty clueless when it comes to this stuff. I have JVC 520RS, Anthem 720, Oppo UDP-203, Apple 4K and Pioneer PRO-151FD 1080p Television. When I got the Oppo, my old HDMI cable wouldn't pass 4k to the JVC so I replaced it with an RUIPRO fiber optic. That is when the problems started. Even with the JVC power off, the RUIPRO cause the Pioneer on Apple TV to pulse on and off and never lock on. If I unplug the projector HDMI cable, the issue goes away.



After doing a lot of reading, I bought the HDFury Linker. Last night I installed it between the Anthem and the Pioneer TV, set it to downscale and left the EDID on the center position. Problem solved, or so I thought, pulsing stopped with the JVC fiber cable plugged in. Then I switched to the projector and the JVC pulled 4k from the Apple TV... so far so good. But when I switched back to the Pioneer, the picture came up, but all the colors were washed out. The Apple TV was still outputting 4K but it was not downscaling it properly for the Pioneer plasma. I tried moving the switch to fixed EDID, but this caused it to start pulsing again and not locking onto the Anthem HDMI output. I powered the Anthem off and back on and it pulled the Apple TV back to 1080p with a good picture.



The thing is I don't want to have to shut it on and off when switching between my displays. Can one of the experts here tell me what settings I should have the HD Linker on so that the Apple TV stays on 4k resolution but correctly downscales the picture so the Apple can just stay on 4k? I don't have the GUI set up but I can do that if necessary to set it to a custom setting.



Actually, I watch the Pioneer alot more than the JVC since the room is not light controlled and all of my movie watching has to be at night. If there is another way to set it up so that the Apple TV just stays in 1080p all the time until I use it with the projector but correctly switches back I am good with that too. Any help anyone can give would be much appreciated.

Yes you might need to install driver and run GUI so we can see signal details and make sure settings are correct.
However, in the meantime, please confirm the setup, do you have both Pioneer and JVC at AVR output (said otherwise, does your avr have 2 outputs and both populated ?)
You have Linker between AVR and JVC only ?
Do you have a link to your RUIPRO cable ?

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #785 of 1237 Old 06-03-2018, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Yes you might need to install driver and run GUI so we can see signal details and make sure settings are correct.
However, in the meantime, please confirm the setup, do you have both Pioneer and JVC at AVR output (said otherwise, does your avr have 2 outputs and both populated ?)
You have Linker between AVR and JVC only ?
Do you have a link to your RUIPRO cable ?

The Anthem has two live hdmi outputs all the time. A call to the factory revealed there was no way to disable one of them when not in use. Pioneer Kuro is on HDMI-1 and JVC is on HDMI-2. Right now the Linker is between the Anthem AVR and Pioneer. There is no Linker on the RUIPRO cable which is the 50 footer going the ceiling, lift-mounted JVC.

I am starting to wonder if I need a Linker at all. With the projector RUIPRO unplugged, the Pioneer has no problem linking to the Apple TV 4k or the Oppo 4k. Both quickly change resolution to perfect 1080P for the Pioneer. As long as I unplug the Pioneer HDMI cable, the JVC has no problem locking onto Apple TV in 4k mode. Same for the Oppo 4k discs. I bought and watched Tomb Raider in 4k on Apple TV/JVC tonight with no issues, but the HDMI on the Pioneer was unplugged.

I believe the glitch is with the RUIPRO and JVC. When the JVC is powered off. If I click the info button on the Anthem, HDMI-2 flashes back and forth between "1080p" and "No Signal". It does this even with HDMI-1 unplugged. I believe that it is the Anthem constantly trying to lock on the JVC when it is off that interferes with the Pioneer locking in. I really think if I had a remote controlled HDMI switch that would just break the signal to the JVC when it wasn't powered up, all issues would be solved.

Anthem tech support is who told me an HCDP issue was most likely causing the issue and told me to get the HDFury Linker. Maybe that is just there standard response if you mention the words "no signal". If the Linker can seamlessly solve the issue, I am all for it. I wonder if it is normal for there to be power at the JVC HDMI even when it is off. The Anthem is trying to lock but there is nothing there, so maybe the Linker in line with the JVC would solve the problem.

Last edited by Swatdude1; 06-03-2018 at 02:04 AM.
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post #786 of 1237 Old 06-03-2018, 08:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
The Anthem has two live hdmi outputs all the time. A call to the factory revealed there was no way to disable one of them when not in use. Pioneer Kuro is on HDMI-1 and JVC is on HDMI-2. Right now the Linker is between the Anthem AVR and Pioneer. There is no Linker on the RUIPRO cable which is the 50 footer going the ceiling, lift-mounted JVC.

I am starting to wonder if I need a Linker at all. With the projector RUIPRO unplugged, the Pioneer has no problem linking to the Apple TV 4k or the Oppo 4k. Both quickly change resolution to perfect 1080P for the Pioneer. As long as I unplug the Pioneer HDMI cable, the JVC has no problem locking onto Apple TV in 4k mode. Same for the Oppo 4k discs. I bought and watched Tomb Raider in 4k on Apple TV/JVC tonight with no issues, but the HDMI on the Pioneer was unplugged.

I believe the glitch is with the RUIPRO and JVC. When the JVC is powered off. If I click the info button on the Anthem, HDMI-2 flashes back and forth between "1080p" and "No Signal". It does this even with HDMI-1 unplugged. I believe that it is the Anthem constantly trying to lock on the JVC when it is off that interferes with the Pioneer locking in. I really think if I had a remote controlled HDMI switch that would just break the signal to the JVC when it wasn't powered up, all issues would be solved.

Anthem tech support is who told me an HCDP issue was most likely causing the issue and told me to get the HDFury Linker. Maybe that is just there standard response if you mention the words "no signal". If the Linker can seamlessly solve the issue, I am all for it. I wonder if it is normal for there to be power at the JVC HDMI even when it is off. The Anthem is trying to lock but there is nothing there, so maybe the Linker in line with the JVC would solve the problem.

I suppose your RUIPRO is not powered and sucking power from Anthem so based on available voltage it might or might not pull up the resistor on JVC.


Yes you should try Linker in pass thru mode RIGHT BEFORE JVC so ANTHEM > RUIPRO > LINKER > JVC.
that should solve the issue.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.

Last edited by HDfury; 06-04-2018 at 06:36 AM.
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post #787 of 1237 Old 06-03-2018, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
I suppose your RUIPRO is not powered and sucking power from Anthem so based on available voltage it might or might not pull up the resistor on JVC.


Yes you should try Linker in pass thru mode RIGHT BEFORE JVC so ANTHEM > RUIPRO > LINKER > JVC.
that should the issue.

Thanks! I will try that out. So just to confirm is that Sink EDID and Scaling Justified setting? Or do I have to set something in the GUI? Also, does the Linker need power in standby? Because the JVC is sitting inside a motorized ceiling lift and it would be a huge PIA to get power to it.
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post #788 of 1237 Old 06-04-2018, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Thanks! I will try that out. So just to confirm is that Sink EDID and Scaling Justified setting? Or do I have to set something in the GUI? Also, does the Linker need power in standby? Because the JVC is sitting inside a motorized ceiling lift and it would be a huge PIA to get power to it.

Scaling Slide mid position (pass thru)
EDID slide can be SINK or CUSTOM


Linker needs to be powered (I'm not sure to understand your question regarding power in standby).
Linker goes in standby mode when SINK is OFF, as soon as SINK is ON and if there is an incoming signal, it will wake up and sync. so the use case is usually to let it powered all the time or to power it at the same time than rest of the setup.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #789 of 1237 Old 06-05-2018, 02:38 AM
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@HDfury , rumour has it that you are currently working on an update for all HDFury devices to support VRR and other latency modes introduced with 2018 TVs (such as the Samsung Q9FN). Any news on that, any other improvements upcoming? Would the HDFury actually be able to simply 'downscale' a VRR signal (say at 75p) down to 60p?

Thanks!
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post #790 of 1237 Old 06-05-2018, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by drdoom2k View Post
@HDfury, rumour has it that you are currently working on an update for all HDFury devices to support VRR and other latency modes introduced with 2018 TVs (such as the Samsung Q9FN). Any news on that, any other improvements upcoming? Would the HDFury actually be able to simply 'downscale' a VRR signal (say at 75p) down to 60p?

Thanks!
Yes that's true, we already have Vertex update supporting VRR/ALLM/HDR10+


75 to 60p have nothing to do with DOWNSCALE, it's called FRAME RATE CONVERSION and none of our 4K devices do any frame rate conversion, as it would cost thousand dollars to do so.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #791 of 1237 Old 06-07-2018, 02:28 AM
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@HDfury , I’ve been having issues with my Linker displaying 4K resolution via my PC and 1080Ti video card. I’ve sent messages back and forth on the HDFury website and never got a resolution to my problem. At this point, I’ve given up because it’s not worth the headache.

My question is in regards to my Directv. I cannot get my directv to work with the Linker. What happens is this, I change the source on my AVR to Directv. I turn on my directv and the picture flashes on, then goes to black, comes back up, then goes to black, comes back on one more time and then goes to black for good. It’s like it’s trying to display the picture but it just can’t for some reason. The crazy thing is that you can hear the sound just fine but no picture.

I have an Epson 5040 Projector coupled with a Yamaha RX-A3050 AVR. The whole point of me getting a Linker is so that I can game in native 4K HDR on my PS4 Pro and Xbox One X. Here are pics of my settings for the Linker. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
















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post #792 of 1237 Old 06-07-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
@HDfury, I’ve been having issues with my Linker displaying 4K resolution via my PC and 1080Ti video card. I’ve sent messages back and forth on the HDFury website and never got a resolution to my problem. At this point, I’ve given up because it’s not worth the headache.

My question is in regards to my Directv. I cannot get my directv to work with the Linker. What happens is this, I change the source on my AVR to Directv. I turn on my directv and the picture flashes on, then goes to black, comes back up, then goes to black, comes back on one more time and then goes to black for good. It’s like it’s trying to display the picture but it just can’t for some reason. The crazy thing is that you can hear the sound just fine but no picture.

I have an Epson 5040 Projector coupled with a Yamaha RX-A3050 AVR. The whole point of me getting a Linker is so that I can game in native 4K HDR on my PS4 Pro and Xbox One X. Here are pics of my settings for the Linker. Any help would be greatly appreciated



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Please add pictures as attachment in your post and not inside your post.


Please set the following so your screenshot looks correct:


Fix for HIGH DPI settings with the GUI:

Make sure the GUI isn't already running, then right click the GUI exe file > Properties (the regular one, there's no need to do this with the 200dpi version)

Click the "Compatibility" tab.
Look down for "Override high DPI scaling behavior" and check the box.
For the drop-down under "Scaling Performed by" choose "System - Enhanced"
Start the GUI and revel in how it works normally now.




Now regarding your issue:
Confirm cable length between each equipment at input and output.
Set HDCP to 1.4 if it doesn't help, try FW0.23 with HDCP at 2.2 and 1.4. (Total 3 different tests)

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #793 of 1237 Old 06-07-2018, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Please add pictures as attachment in your post and not inside your post.


Please set the following so your screenshot looks correct:


Fix for HIGH DPI settings with the GUI:

Make sure the GUI isn't already running, then right click the GUI exe file > Properties (the regular one, there's no need to do this with the 200dpi version)

Click the "Compatibility" tab.
Look down for "Override high DPI scaling behavior" and check the box.
For the drop-down under "Scaling Performed by" choose "System - Enhanced"
Start the GUI and revel in how it works normally now.




Now regarding your issue:
Confirm cable length between each equipment at input and output.
Set HDCP to 1.4 if it doesn't help, try FW0.23 with HDCP at 2.2 and 1.4. (Total 3 different tests)


Pics attached.

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post #794 of 1237 Old 06-07-2018, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
Pics attached.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are the same pics, I have seen them already, please proceed with instructions on previous post.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #795 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Those are the same pics, I have seen them already, please proceed with instructions on previous post.

Sorry about that. Here’s new pics. Btw, I reverted back to FW 0.23











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post #796 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
Sorry about that. Here’s new pics. Btw, I reverted back to FW 0.23


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No signal going thru on those pics (and please put them at attachment !)


Anyway, I don't need to see anymore screenshot, please proceed with previous instructions:


Now regarding your issue:
Confirm cable length between each equipment at input and output.
Set HDCP to 1.4 if it doesn't help, try FW0.23 with HDCP at 2.2 and 1.4. (Total 3 different tests)

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #797 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
No signal going thru on those pics (and please put them at attachment !)


Anyway, I don't need to see anymore screenshot, please proceed with previous instructions:


Now regarding your issue:
Confirm cable length between each equipment at input and output.
Set HDCP to 1.4 if it doesn't help, try FW0.23 with HDCP at 2.2 and 1.4. (Total 3 different tests)


I tried to put them as attachments and Tapatalk said it failed so I had to put them in my post.

Also, it must have been so long ago that I tried to use my Direct tv that I had my problem backwards. It actually shows a picture, it just doesn’t have sound. My AVR shows the sound as Analog with the Linker hooked up but when I take the Linker out of the chain, sound instantly comes back and the AVR shows Dolby Digital. Any idea what I need to check for?


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post #798 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 05:55 AM
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HDFURY Linker owners thread

@HDfury , I hooked up the Linker to my laptop while I had the directv source on. Here are a couple screenshots showing what the Linker was seeing. I’ve also tried HDCP output at 1.4 and 2.2. No difference. Sound doesn’t work. I even changed my directv audio settings and turned Dolby digital off just to see if that made a difference. Still no sound. As soon as I take power away from the Linker, sound comes back and picture goes away. I just don’t understand where the issue is coming from with the sound. I have my xbox one x, PS4 pro and Panasonic 4K player with no sound issues at all. Dolby Digital, DTS, DTS-X, Dolby Atmos. But only the Direct tv gives me sound issues.
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Last edited by JewDaddy; 06-08-2018 at 06:11 AM.
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post #799 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
@HDfury, I hooked up the Linker to my laptop while I had the directv source on. Here are a couple screenshots showing what the Linker was seeing. I’ve also tried HDCP output at 1.4 and 2.2. No difference. Sound doesn’t work. I even changed my directv audio settings and turned Dolby digital off just to see if that made a difference. Still no sound. As soon as I take power away from the Linker, sound comes back and picture goes away. I just don’t understand where the issue is coming from with the sound. I have my xbox one x, PS4 pro and Panasonic 4K player with no sound issues at all. Dolby Digital, DTS, DTS-X, Dolby Atmos. But only the Direct tv gives me sound issues.


Put EDID slide on SINK mode, restart source and restart AVR (disconnect/reconnect power cord) and see if you have same issue.


If you still have issue, please give me a correct description including everything connected at AVR input/output and cable length between equipment.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #800 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Put EDID slide on SINK mode, restart source and restart AVR (disconnect/reconnect power cord) and see if you have same issue.


If you still have issue, please give me a correct description including everything connected at AVR input/output and cable length between equipment.


Well, I have to say that by doing what you said, it fixes the issue with my Directv. Thank you very much for the help.

Now in saying that, when I switch to my Xbox one X, I no longer get all the green checkmarks showing that I can do 4K HDR gaming. When I switch the EDID back to custom, all the checkmarks are green again. So here’s my question. Is there a way to not switch between that mode each time I go from directv to Xbox or Xbox to Direct tv? The whole reason I got the Linker was to trick my Xbox one X and ps4 pro into thinking my Epson Projector supports 4K HDR at 60hz.


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post #801 of 1237 Old 06-08-2018, 09:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JewDaddy View Post
Well, I have to say that by doing what you said, it fixes the issue with my Directv. Thank you very much for the help.

Now in saying that, when I switch to my Xbox one X, I no longer get all the green checkmarks showing that I can do 4K HDR gaming. When I switch the EDID back to custom, all the checkmarks are green again. So here’s my question. Is there a way to not switch between that mode each time I go from directv to Xbox or Xbox to Direct tv? The whole reason I got the Linker was to trick my Xbox one X and ps4 pro into thinking my Epson Projector supports 4K HDR at 60hz.


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The problem seems related to how DirectTV read and interpret EDID.
So the solution could be a custom EDID, so I suggest you download the HDfury EDID collection and try to load one of the Vertex EDID as custom ONE and see if it works for DirectTV sound.
You can also read Display EDID and add HDR/BT2020 capabilities to it but need some knowledge. Try above first.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #802 of 1237 Old 06-09-2018, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Scaling Slide mid position (pass thru)
EDID slide can be SINK or CUSTOM


Linker needs to be powered (I'm not sure to understand your question regarding power in standby).
Linker goes in standby mode when SINK is OFF, as soon as SINK is ON and if there is an incoming signal, it will wake up and sync. so the use case is usually to let it powered all the time or to power it at the same time than rest of the setup.

That is a problem powering it at the JVC. Anyway it will work if I go Anthem-Linker-RUIPRO-JVC??
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post #803 of 1237 Old 06-10-2018, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
That is a problem powering it at the JVC. Anyway it will work if I go Anthem-Linker-RUIPRO-JVC??

If RUIPRO is active or fiber non powered by its own power supply, then I doubt it will work, you can try and if it fails, you can eventually try 5.25V PSU such as our Universal PSU if offering from port 1, that should get you working with this setup.

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #804 of 1237 Old 06-12-2018, 02:25 PM
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@HDfury

I cannot seem to get 3D to work with the linker in the chain ( Oppo 203 / Linker /JVC Z1/RS4500) .

Settings are "Pass Through " and "Sync" .

If i run direct to the Oppo , 3D works fine. Works fine also if i put the Integral in place of the Linker.

Help appreciated.
Thanks.
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post #805 of 1237 Old 06-12-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
@HDfury

I cannot seem to get 3D to work with the linker in the chain ( Oppo 203 / Linker /JVC Z1/RS4500) .

Settings are "Pass Through " and "Sync" .

If i run direct to the Oppo , 3D works fine. Works fine also if i put the Integral in place of the Linker.

Help appreciated.
Thanks.

Not sure what "Sync" means here, do you mean SINK for EDID slide ?


If signal needs to be hdcp converted then it won't work, Linker cannot HDCP convert interlaced and/or 3D signals. see : https://www.hdfury.com/4k-linker-ult...s-in-progress/

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #806 of 1237 Old 06-13-2018, 01:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Not sure what "Sync" means here, do you mean SINK for EDID slide ?


If signal needs to be hdcp converted then it won't work, Linker cannot HDCP convert interlaced and/or 3D signals. see : https://www.hdfury.com/4k-linker-ult...s-in-progress/
Yes, i meant SINK for the EDID..

What is , and how do i select "Bypass Mode" ?
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post #807 of 1237 Old 06-13-2018, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by woofer View Post
Yes, i meant SINK for the EDID..

What is , and how do i select "Bypass Mode" ?

3D and interlaced automatically goes in Bypass Mode, which mean what comes in goes out untouched, so if source is hdcp 2.2 and display only accept hdcp 1.4, then it cannot work (you need Vertex/AVR-Key or Integral to HDCP convert 3D signals)

Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #808 of 1237 Old 06-24-2018, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Yes that's true, we already have Vertex update supporting VRR/ALLM/HDR10+


75 to 60p have nothing to do with DOWNSCALE, it's called FRAME RATE CONVERSION and none of our 4K devices do any frame rate conversion, as it would cost thousand dollars to do so.
Hi HDFury,

Any chance you could provide an update on your progress on the latest Linker firmware update? Also, one more thing - I have changed from a Samsung Q9FN to a LG C8, hence fairly keen on understanding Dolby Vision support. As I understand, there is currently no way to 'strip' out or simply downscale DV of an incoming signal (ATV4k) to be fully supported with an ambilight system?

Thanks!
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post #809 of 1237 Old 06-24-2018, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by drdoom2k View Post
Hi HDFury,

Any chance you could provide an update on your progress on the latest Linker firmware update? Also, one more thing - I have changed from a Samsung Q9FN to a LG C8, hence fairly keen on understanding Dolby Vision support. As I understand, there is currently no way to 'strip' out or simply downscale DV of an incoming signal (ATV4k) to be fully supported with an ambilight system?

Thanks!
DV cannot be downscaled and cannot feed ambilight system because it's formatted for the DV display and forwarded to the DV display using unique DV string from the DV display, only the DV display can render it correctly.
I don't have any update regarding VRR support for Linker (if that's your question), i'll ask devs about it and let you know.
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Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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post #810 of 1237 Old 07-01-2018, 03:42 PM
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HDR to SDR conversion for 1080p display/streaming/ambient light

Hi guys,


Just a quick note to let you know that we released a HDR to SDR conversion firmware for the HDfury X4, follow below link for more details.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vi...l#post56426704
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Use Automix/SINK mode for DV support on AVR-Key/Integral. Linker does NOT support all DV.
Want to get DD+ and ATMOS sound from TV streaming Apps back to an AVR via HDMI since it fails via ARC or S/PDIF?
Show interest by posting your TV and AVR brand/model. We might select you in the future for some beta test.
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