HDFURY Linker owners thread - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 1287 Old 07-05-2018, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Hi guys,


Just a quick note to let you know that we released a HDR to SDR conversion firmware for the HDfury X4, follow below link for more details.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/37-vi...l#post56426704
Wow, nice. Guess this is NOT applicable for the Linker and can't easily be flashed onto it?
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post #812 of 1287 Old 07-05-2018, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by drdoom2k View Post
Wow, nice. Guess this is NOT applicable for the Linker and can't easily be flashed onto it?

Yes correct, HDR to SDR conversion is only possible with HDfury X4, usually setup is as attached picture.
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post #813 of 1287 Old 07-08-2018, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
If RUIPRO is active or fiber non powered by its own power supply, then I doubt it will work, you can try and if it fails, you can eventually try 5.25V PSU such as our Universal PSU if offering from port 1, that should get you working with this setup.

I tried putting the Linker in front of the RUIPRO and it didn't work. I am super frustrated. It will be EXTREMELY difficult to get power to the linker at the JVC. I bought a custom made INCA lift to fit between the rafters and the JVC barely fits. I had to use right angle power and HDMI cables to not protrude outside the lift cage. It took me a day to get the RUIPRO run and now it is close to 150 degF in the attic in Phoenix. It's a huge PITA to remove all the insulation, get into the top of the lift, and run a cable through the tray. There has to be another way.



I'm really pissed at Anthem. I think I will call them back tomorrow and complain. There should be a way to pick which HDMI-OUT a specific input uses like there was on my Denon 5308. This would immediately solve my problem. I have the Anthem inputs set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple TV Pioneer and Apple TV JVC. I should just be able to assign HDMI-2 to the JVC inputs. This is a fatal flaw in the Anthem IMO.
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post #814 of 1287 Old 07-09-2018, 05:54 AM
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If I want to watch UHD blu-rays for with Atmos, and get the Atmos sound but don't have a 4k display yet - is this my ticket? I attach a HD Fury Linker between my 4k capable receiver and my 1080p SDR television?

It seems the more research I do on these things the more confused I'm getting.

Also does this require a bunch of programming and a laptop or is it just plug it in and "it just werks"

Thanks
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post #815 of 1287 Old 07-09-2018, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
I tried putting the Linker in front of the RUIPRO and it didn't work. I am super frustrated. It will be EXTREMELY difficult to get power to the linker at the JVC. I bought a custom made INCA lift to fit between the rafters and the JVC barely fits. I had to use right angle power and HDMI cables to not protrude outside the lift cage. It took me a day to get the RUIPRO run and now it is close to 150 degF in the attic in Phoenix. It's a huge PITA to remove all the insulation, get into the top of the lift, and run a cable through the tray. There has to be another way.



I'm really pissed at Anthem. I think I will call them back tomorrow and complain. There should be a way to pick which HDMI-OUT a specific input uses like there was on my Denon 5308. This would immediately solve my problem. I have the Anthem inputs set up as Oppo Pioneer, Oppo JVC, Apple TV Pioneer and Apple TV JVC. I should just be able to assign HDMI-2 to the JVC inputs. This is a fatal flaw in the Anthem IMO.

I guess your best bet here is to replace Linker by Vertex and then use only one output of AVR to feed Vertex and Vertex will feed both PJ and 1080p display.
Send us an email if you want to try that, it should solve your issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
If I want to watch UHD blu-rays for with Atmos, and get the Atmos sound but don't have a 4k display yet - is this my ticket? I attach a HD Fury Linker between my 4k capable receiver and my 1080p SDR television?

It seems the more research I do on these things the more confused I'm getting.

Also does this require a bunch of programming and a laptop or is it just plug it in and "it just werks"

Thanks

There is no programming with our devices, however windows computer access is needed for firmware update or advanced settings via Windows GUI.
In the setup you described I guess the only thing you will have to setup is the default custom EDID, instead of Full HDR EDID, you should use a 600MHz non HDR EDID.
So if you don't want to have to do settings with Windows GUI, you can get GoBlue and set custom EDID using Android or iOS APP.

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post #816 of 1287 Old 07-09-2018, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
There is no programming with our devices, however windows computer access is needed for firmware update or advanced settings via Windows GUI.
In the setup you described I guess the only thing you will have to setup is the default custom EDID, instead of Full HDR EDID, you should use a 600MHz non HDR EDID.
So if you don't want to have to do settings with Windows GUI, you can get GoBlue and set custom EDID using Android or iOS APP.
So just to confirm, I'd buy the Linker and then a GoBlue (cheaper than a Windows laptop I guess)? Does Monoprice keep these on sale often? I'd probably not be buying for a few months.

*edit* Also would firmware updates be possible with a Windows computer? Or is that not likely to be an issue anyways?

Last edited by anjunadeep; 07-09-2018 at 08:47 AM.
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post #817 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
So just to confirm, I'd buy the Linker and then a GoBlue (cheaper than a Windows laptop I guess)? Does Monoprice keep these on sale often? I'd probably not be buying for a few months.

*edit* Also would firmware updates be possible with a Windows computer? Or is that not likely to be an issue anyways?
I cannot answer you about monoprice sales, you should see that with them as I have no idea about it.


Windows computer allow firmware update and GUI utility, GoBlue only allow settings and EDID selection, it cannot help for firmware update.
You should not need to update the firmware when you buy from HDfury.com, when you buy from other sources there is a small chance (or bad luck) that you have older firmware and would need an update.

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post #818 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 08:40 AM
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[QUOTE=HDfury;56462548]I guess your best bet here is to replace Linker by Vertex and then use only one output of AVR to feed Vertex and Vertex will feed both PJ and 1080p display.
Send us an email if you want to try that, it should solve your issue.

At this point I am willing to try anything at any cost. How do you tell the Vertex which display to select? IR? I am getting an RTI remote and I has RS232 capability.



Do I use the "contact" at "hdfury" email?
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post #819 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
At this point I am willing to try anything at any cost. How do you tell the Vertex which display to select? IR? I am getting an RTI remote and I has RS232 capability.

Do I use the "contact" at "hdfury" email?

Vertex will output to both display at the same time, so you don't need to tell which display to select.

Anyway, you can control by IR, RS232, Windows GUI, push button or Android/iOS APP (with GoBlue)

Yes, use that email addy, it's fine.

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post #820 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Vertex will output to both display at the same time, so you don't need to tell which display to select.

Anyway, you can control by IR, RS232, Windows GUI, push button or Android/iOS APP (with GoBlue)

Yes, use that email addy, it's fine.

Just want to make sure, the Vertex will stop the "pulsing" of the fiber cable trying to lock a signal when the JVC projector is off?


I want everything for the Pioneer scaled to 1080p 60hz but I still want the Projector to auto sense 4k, 1080p, etc. Is this doable?
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post #821 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
Just want to make sure, the Vertex will stop the "pulsing" of the fiber cable trying to lock a signal when the JVC projector is off?


I want everything for the Pioneer scaled to 1080p 60hz but I still want the Projector to auto sense 4k, 1080p, etc. Is this doable?
As long as the fiber is good, it will work, if it's an issue with the fiber cable, it won't fix.


And yes, you can have one display at 4K and the other at 1080p
If you want both display to work at the same time and one at 4K HDR and other at 1080p SDR, then you also need HDfury X4 to do HDR > SDR conversion.


if only one display up at a time, then Vertex is enough.

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post #822 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 12:31 PM
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HD Linker Ambilight issues

Hi there,

I am using The HD Linker between a Yamaha Receiver and a 4K TV. The receiver sends an output signal to a splitter which is sending one signal tp the TV directly and the other signal to the linker. The linker sends scales down 4k to 1080p and forward the signal to an Hdmi converter and a video grabber to an RPi running Hyperion. I have various sources running, in 4k and 1080p which are connected to the receiver.
When I set up the linker the first time I connected a 4k source and the TV directly to the linker, read the EDID information and saved it on the linker. This is working quite well. My problem is, as soon as I switch from 4k source to a 1080p source, eg. a PS3 the linker seems to stop working. The green light turns off, the screen does not show a signal. Does someone have a clue what I am doing wrong?

Thanks for your help, Martin
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post #823 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
As long as the fiber is good, it will work, if it's an issue with the fiber cable, it won't fix.

And yes, you can have one display at 4K and the other at 1080p
If you want both display to work at the same time and one at 4K HDR and other at 1080p SDR, then you also need HDfury X4 to do HDR > SDR conversion.

if only one display up at a time, then Vertex is enough.
When the projector is off, the Anthem indicates the RUIPRO is flashing between "no signal" and "HDMI-2", which is the Anthem HDMI out the RUIPRO is connected to. This is what is causing the Pioneer not to lock onto the Apple TV signal. When one or the other HDMI cable is unplugged from either Anthem HDMI out, each display works fine with any source. With the Pioneer HDMI unplugged, the fiber passes 4k UHD to JVC no problem.

Do you think the "trying to lock a signal that isn't there" pulse is normal behavior for this type of cable? I just figured it is occurring because of the powered electronics in the Fiber cable that convert the signal to light are causing the issue. So when you say issue with the fiber cable, do you mean its ability to pass 4k or the fact that the Anthem is causing it to pulse? Do you think its a bad cable even though it is passing 4k?

I am fairly confident when the fiber is plugged into the Vertex it will try to lock on and off from the JVC. Can the Vertex be set up to force only one HDMI output to be active, regardless of whether or not that HDMI might be trying to lock onto a non-existent signal?


I did not have this signal when the BJC Belden HDMI cable was in the system but that cable wouldn't pass 4k so both the Pioneer and the JVC were getting 1080p.

Last edited by Swatdude1; 07-10-2018 at 03:21 PM.
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post #824 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by mflint View Post
Hi there,

I am using The HD Linker between a Yamaha Receiver and a 4K TV. The receiver sends an output signal to a splitter which is sending one signal tp the TV directly and the other signal to the linker. The linker sends scales down 4k to 1080p and forward the signal to an Hdmi converter and a video grabber to an RPi running Hyperion. I have various sources running, in 4k and 1080p which are connected to the receiver.
When I set up the linker the first time I connected a 4k source and the TV directly to the linker, read the EDID information and saved it on the linker. This is working quite well. My problem is, as soon as I switch from 4k source to a 1080p source, eg. a PS3 the linker seems to stop working. The green light turns off, the screen does not show a signal. Does someone have a clue what I am doing wrong?

Thanks for your help, Martin

Please try to take a GUI screenshot when you are having the issue, EDID and SCALER section mainly but any other part also welcome and confirm FW version running.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
When the projector is off, the Anthem indicates the RUIPRO is flashing between "no signal" and "HDMI-2", which is the Anthem HDMI out the RUIPRO is connected to. This is what is causing the Pioneer not to lock onto the Apple TV signal. When one or the other HDMI cable is unplugged from either Anthem HDMI out, each display works fine with any source. With the Pioneer HDMI unplugged, the fiber passes 4k UHD to JVC no problem.

Do you think the "trying to lock a signal that isn't there" pulse is normal behavior for this type of cable? I just figured it is occurring because of the powered electronics in the Fiber cable that convert the signal to light are causing the issue. So when you say issue with the fiber cable, do you mean its ability to pass 4k or the fact that the Anthem is causing it to pulse? Do you think its a bad cable even though it is passing 4k?

I am fairly confident when the fiber is plugged into the Vertex it will try to lock on and off from the JVC. Can the Vertex be set up to force only one HDMI output to be active, regardless of whether or not that HDMI might be trying to lock onto a non-existent signal?


I did not have this signal when the BJC Belden HDMI cable was in the system but that cable wouldn't pass 4k so both the Pioneer and the JVC were getting 1080p.

I cannot say much about this cable because I don't think we ever had one here for testing, I do remember some people having issue with Ruipro fiber too but may be this could be just because it's cheaper and more widely adopted so more possible occurrence, not sure exactly.
We do have tested celerity tek fiber and they work perfectly well in our system (yet I also remember some users who had to replace it).
600MHz not so easy over long distance.


Anyway, I think Vertex will fix the issue either by just being connected in the setup or by using HTPC mode.(what happens at output is not reported to input anymore)
Both leads of RUIPRO are powered ?


We also have seen some active cable that was cutting signal down to 300MHz on input and restoring 600MHz at output, thus altering the quality.

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post #825 of 1287 Old 07-10-2018, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post

Both leads of RUIPRO are powered ?

I think only one since it only works in one direction with one lead clearly marked source.


I just did quite a bit of reading on your website. Just curious, could the Vertex have "pushed" a 4k UHD signal through my standard 50 foot Belden HDMI cable? Without me going to the trouble of replacing with RUIPRO in the attic and projector lift?

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post #826 of 1287 Old 07-11-2018, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
I think only one since it only works in one direction with one lead clearly marked source.


I just did quite a bit of reading on your website. Just curious, could the Vertex have "pushed" a 4k UHD signal through my standard 50 foot Belden HDMI cable? Without me going to the trouble of replacing with RUIPRO in the attic and projector lift?

Ok, having only one power supply at cable source side could be the problem, cause if not enough juice for JVC pull up resistor then edid cannot be read correctly leading in such pulse. Could very much be the problem here.
Look celerity tek, they have power supply at both end for a reason.


Vertex PCB2 can drive/power active cable, but cannot do miracle, basically it can only do what any AVR would do in this regard.
Also it all depends what kind of UHD we are talking as there is night and day difference between 300MHz UHD and 600MHz UHD, so we need accuracy in terms.


4K60 4:2:2 12b (600MHz) over 50ft (no fiber, no active) in my opinion, it will never work, yet I have seen a 33ft cable working for 600MHz but that is EXTREMELLY RARE, for copper, the length recommended for 600Mhz is min 6ft, max 12ft
Now if you only send 4K24 4:2:2 12b (300MHz), there is chance it will go thru a 50ft. (no fiber, no active).

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post #827 of 1287 Old 07-11-2018, 11:38 AM
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Finally, I found someone having the same problem so I know I'm not alone...
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post #828 of 1287 Old 07-11-2018, 01:54 PM
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Finally, I found someone having the same problem so I know I'm not alone...
Yes it's power issue, in your case you need a fiber that have power supply on both end, then it will work.

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post #829 of 1287 Old 07-11-2018, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
Yes it's power issue, in your case you need a fiber that have power supply on both end, then it will work.

But the Vertex can still solve my problem without going to the trouble of running another fiber cable right? The RUIPRO has two copper conductors in addition to the fiber so I am not positive it is not powered at both ends. I found bad reviews for the Celerity Tek cables as well.
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post #830 of 1287 Old 07-11-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Swatdude1 View Post
But the Vertex can still solve my problem without going to the trouble of running another fiber cable right? The RUIPRO has two copper conductors in addition to the fiber so I am not positive it is not powered at both ends. I found bad reviews for the Celerity Tek cables as well.


IF it's power issue, then you will need to use Vertex with Universal Power Supply (which is made to fix such issue) or with any 5.25V 2A PSU you can find for cheaper online (NEVER EXCEED 5.3V !)
https://www.hdfury.com/product/universal-psu-doctor/
Port 1 of this power supply offers 5.25 to power device that might suck too much power from HDMI or that might be too long to have enough juice at the end for display pull up resistors.

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post #831 of 1287 Old 07-12-2018, 09:04 PM
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I bought a linker a couple of days ago from monoprice and it has been working great. However today the light on it is green like it has a good signal, but nothing is output and the device does not respond to any of the buttons on the side, even reset. When I plug it in to my pc and open the GUI to try and reset it, it takes a few minutes for the gui to load but shows an error that the device is not connected. Any ideas on what else I can try and do to fix it before I send it back to monoprice?
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post #832 of 1287 Old 07-13-2018, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by ksbarnz View Post
I bought a linker a couple of days ago from monoprice and it has been working great. However today the light on it is green like it has a good signal, but nothing is output and the device does not respond to any of the buttons on the side, even reset. When I plug it in to my pc and open the GUI to try and reset it, it takes a few minutes for the gui to load but shows an error that the device is not connected. Any ideas on what else I can try and do to fix it before I send it back to monoprice?
You asked same question on support server, see answer on it.

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post #833 of 1287 Old 07-17-2018, 01:12 PM
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When the Linker downres's 4k UHD HDR content down to 1080p SDR, does it also handle the tone mapping so the image doesn't have that washed out look?
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post #834 of 1287 Old 07-17-2018, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
When the Linker downres's 4k UHD HDR content down to 1080p SDR, does it also handle the tone mapping so the image doesn't have that washed out look?
You need HDfury X4 to convert 1080p HDR from Vertex or Linker into 1080p SDR.


Only 3 devices in the world does HDR > SDR: OPPO203, Lumagen Radiance Pro, HDfury X4

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post #835 of 1287 Old 07-18-2018, 03:08 AM
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So, I have a question...

Would it be possible to implement a firmware feature (by HD Fury) to support nearest neighbor scaling? I've been searching far and wide for a method to upscale an HDMI source using integer scaling WITHOUT filtering. I understand that, for film content, filtering makes sense but I use this for game and game capture purposes (partially for my job at Digital Foundry - where we focus on the technical side of game coverage)

Taking a 1080p image (or, if it were supported, a 720p image) and scaling it to 4K would be perfect for many games.

Here's an example - this is a direct-feed capture from Nintendo Switch's portable mode (using a modded system). The viewer allows for nearest neighbor scaling. The result here is a perfect 2x2 scale from 1280x720 to 1440p. A 3x3 scale is also possible for an exact 2160p image. I cropped this a tad for better viewing on the forum but you can see the result - perfectly sharp pixels. Up close this may not be super desirable but, from a normal distance, this greater increases the perception of clarity and sharpness. No ringing artefacts and no blurring.

(simply drag these images to the address bar to see them at full resolution - this forum scales them down automatically)



For comparison, this is a cropped image of a 4K capture from the HD Fury Linker with the Switch itself outputting 1080p. This is a pixel art game set to "no filter" mode so the output should be super sharp and crisp (the PS4 Pro and Xbox One X versions support this internally and output razor sharp pixels). The HD Fury, however, blurs the image as does virtually every other TV on the market when upscaling a 1080p signal (aside from one uncommon Panasonic TV which also exhibits high input latency, unfortunately).



So, basically, what I'd like to see is an option to completely eliminate any sort of blurring during the upscale process. Nearest scaling should be computationally cheaper as well. Unless, of course, this is a hardware limitation on the Linker side.

If not the Linker, has anyone else discovered a solution that fits the bill? I haven't been able to find a single option that delivers this.
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post #836 of 1287 Old 07-19-2018, 04:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dark1x View Post
So, I have a question...

Would it be possible to implement a firmware feature (by HD Fury) to support nearest neighbor scaling? I've been searching far and wide for a method to upscale an HDMI source using integer scaling WITHOUT filtering. I understand that, for film content, filtering makes sense but I use this for game and game capture purposes (partially for my job at Digital Foundry - where we focus on the technical side of game coverage)

Taking a 1080p image (or, if it were supported, a 720p image) and scaling it to 4K would be perfect for many games.

Here's an example - this is a direct-feed capture from Nintendo Switch's portable mode (using a modded system). The viewer allows for nearest neighbor scaling. The result here is a perfect 2x2 scale from 1280x720 to 1440p. A 3x3 scale is also possible for an exact 2160p image. I cropped this a tad for better viewing on the forum but you can see the result - perfectly sharp pixels. Up close this may not be super desirable but, from a normal distance, this greater increases the perception of clarity and sharpness. No ringing artefacts and no blurring.

(simply drag these images to the address bar to see them at full resolution - this forum scales them down automatically)




For comparison, this is a cropped image of a 4K capture from the HD Fury Linker with the Switch itself outputting 1080p. This is a pixel art game set to "no filter" mode so the output should be super sharp and crisp (the PS4 Pro and Xbox One X versions support this internally and output razor sharp pixels). The HD Fury, however, blurs the image as does virtually every other TV on the market when upscaling a 1080p signal (aside from one uncommon Panasonic TV which also exhibits high input latency, unfortunately).




So, basically, what I'd like to see is an option to completely eliminate any sort of blurring during the upscale process. Nearest scaling should be computationally cheaper as well. Unless, of course, this is a hardware limitation on the Linker side.

If not the Linker, has anyone else discovered a solution that fits the bill? I haven't been able to find a single option that delivers this.

Lumagen Radiance Pro should work for you.


It's not about hardware limitation, it's about design limitation, you need FPGA design, so you need something between OPPO203 and Lumagen Radiance Pro to do such operation at 600MHz, said otherwise between 1000 and 4000$

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post #837 of 1287 Old 07-25-2018, 11:31 AM
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My HDFury Linker i have setup between my JVC X970R and Marantz AVR seems to have had an issue as no HDMI signal will pass through it. Where would I find the instructions and settings on how to get it back up and running to enable my DI in HDR, etc. Sorry, it's been a while.
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post #838 of 1287 Old 07-25-2018, 12:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
My HDFury Linker i have setup between my JVC X970R and Marantz AVR seems to have had an issue as no HDMI signal will pass through it. Where would I find the instructions and settings on how to get it back up and running to enable my DI in HDR, etc. Sorry, it's been a while.
Ok, I downloaded the manual and managed to flash my Linker to the newest firmware 0.25.

Now I just need to know what settings in the GUI to use to have it so my JVC 970R can use it's DI in HDR mode. Can anyone point me to those settings?
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post #839 of 1287 Old 07-25-2018, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
My HDFury Linker i have setup between my JVC X970R and Marantz AVR seems to have had an issue as no HDMI signal will pass through it. Where would I find the instructions and settings on how to get it back up and running to enable my DI in HDR, etc. Sorry, it's been a while.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sittler27 View Post
Ok, I downloaded the manual and managed to flash my Linker to the newest firmware 0.25.

Now I just need to know what settings in the GUI to use to have it so my JVC 970R can use it's DI in HDR mode. Can anyone point me to those settings?
Just DISABLE HDR needs to be checked. but better post your GUI screenshots so we can check your settings.

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post #840 of 1287 Old 07-29-2018, 10:50 AM
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Will this device allow my 5040UBe to display 4K 60 HDR from my Xbox One X? Right now the 5040 cannot do this.

Thanks
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