HDFury Integral 2 - Owners Thread - Page 34 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #991 of 1014 Old 05-04-2020, 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
If you have a PC as a source then just set 4K60 RGB 8b as output signal and see if it works.
Content won't help much on a PC. it depends your output resolution.
So, I got picture, but everything came up pink... does that mean I’m past the limits of my cable or just a settings issue?

EDIT: if I manually set output to 4K 60 YCBR4:4:4 8 bit I get proper HDR playback. Does that mean the cable’s good? Appreciate your help!

Last edited by filmgeek47; 05-04-2020 at 10:35 PM.
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post #992 of 1014 Old 05-05-2020, 04:23 AM
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Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
So, I got picture, but everything came up pink... does that mean I’m past the limits of my cable or just a settings issue?

EDIT: if I manually set output to 4K 60 YCBR4:4:4 8 bit I get proper HDR playback. Does that mean the cable’s good? Appreciate your help!
Yes it seems so, pink or green tinted picture is usually mismatch between RGB/YCBCR.

When you insert Integral2, you will need one short cable as well. if copper, min6ft/max12ft, i recommend kabledirekt, bluejeans cables or our cables.
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post #993 of 1014 Old 05-12-2020, 05:46 PM
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Looking at picking one of these up.
I have a Sony 4k blu-ray player, 4k TV and a 2k projector
Looking at the user manual it looks fairly straightup but just want to verify:

Ideally when playing 1080p content the player will output 1080p to the integral 2 which will pass-through the 1080p to the 1080p output and upscale to the 4k output. Other way when playing 4k content the player will send 4k to the integral 2 which will pass-through to the 4k output and downscale to the 1080p output. Does the Integral 2 do this? I expect most played content will be 24fps, can the integral 2 do the up/down scaling and pass-through on 1080p24 and 4k24?



How good is the Integral 2 upscale and downscale quality?
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post #994 of 1014 Old 05-12-2020, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 02fx4dude View Post
Looking at picking one of these up.
I have a Sony 4k blu-ray player, 4k TV and a 2k projector
Looking at the user manual it looks fairly straightup but just want to verify:

Ideally when playing 1080p content the player will output 1080p to the integral 2 which will pass-through the 1080p to the 1080p output and upscale to the 4k output. Other way when playing 4k content the player will send 4k to the integral 2 which will pass-through to the 4k output and downscale to the 1080p output. Does the Integral 2 do this? I expect most played content will be 24fps, can the integral 2 do the up/down scaling and pass-through on 1080p24 and 4k24?



How good is the Integral 2 upscale and downscale quality?
Yes, it will do that just fine for 50/60 or 24/25/30Hz content, no problem.
Downscale always give very good results (always superior to straight 1080p if content is 4K), upscale quality is similar to LG mid range TV model from 2017
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post #995 of 1014 Old 05-17-2020, 09:08 PM
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Hey guys,

Question on the JVC macros. I’ve noticed that the internal JVC off timer setting seems to cue off of interaction with the projector menus rather than lack of an input signal (i.e. my old Sony would auto power off after 20 minutes or so of missing a video signal, whereas the JVC won’t do this, and in fact if you set the off timer, it will power off in the middle of a movie). Is this a problem that the integral could fix? IE could the box be made to trigger a power off Rs232 command in the event that it doesn’t detect an input signal for more than x amount of time?

If not, is that functionality that could be added in the future?
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post #996 of 1014 Old 05-17-2020, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by filmgeek47 View Post
Hey guys,

Question on the JVC macros. I’ve noticed that the internal JVC off timer setting seems to cue off of interaction with the projector menus rather than lack of an input signal (i.e. my old Sony would auto power off after 20 minutes or so of missing a video signal, whereas the JVC won’t do this, and in fact if you set the off timer, it will power off in the middle of a movie). Is this a problem that the integral could fix? IE could the box be made to trigger a power off Rs232 command in the event that it doesn’t detect an input signal for more than x amount of time?

If not, is that functionality that could be added in the future?
The JVC OFF timer is reset each time a user interaction occurs. So if you use the remote to perform any menu function the timer is reset.
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post #997 of 1014 Old 05-17-2020, 10:56 PM
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The JVC OFF timer is reset each time a user interaction occurs. So if you use the remote to perform any menu function the timer is reset.
I was thinking of something like ‘If no signal is detected for 10 minutes, trigger power off command.”

Instead of trying to tweak the JVC timer to stay on, it would simply replace that functionality. Doesn’t sound like this exists currently, but it would be a great feature for a future firmware release if possible.
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post #998 of 1014 Old 05-24-2020, 07:18 AM
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I’ve been trying to diagnose a lip sync problem in my setup, and I’m wondering if the Integral 2 can help with that? Is there information about lipsync in the AVI tab? I haven’t been able to find a reference to decode it. But if I could at least see if the JVC projector is changing its lip sync delay when it switches low latency mode on/off, that would help to diagnose what’s going on. Right now lip sync seems to only be correct when the JVC is in low latency mode, but I can’t really tell if that’s because the AVR isn’t reacting to it changing latency or if the JVC just isn’t sending the info correctly.

My setup is normally:

UBPx700 player -> Denon x4300h ->
(out 1) -> integral 2 -> jvc rs540
(out 2) -> Optoma DLP

(and only the optoma or jvc are on at one time)

removing the out 2 cable doesn’t seem to help, though I can’t swear I’ve tried power cycling the whole chain after unplugging it, etc.

Ideally I’d really like auto lipsync to work so it works with either projector and either latency setting. But if I have to I could settle with IR commands to adjust settings if I can figure out what is happening.

Thanks,
Bruce
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post #999 of 1014 Old 05-24-2020, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce Lowekamp View Post
I’ve been trying to diagnose a lip sync problem in my setup, and I’m wondering if the Integral 2 can help with that? Is there information about lipsync in the AVI tab? I haven’t been able to find a reference to decode it. But if I could at least see if the JVC projector is changing its lip sync delay when it switches low latency mode on/off, that would help to diagnose what’s going on. Right now lip sync seems to only be correct when the JVC is in low latency mode, but I can’t really tell if that’s because the AVR isn’t reacting to it changing latency or if the JVC just isn’t sending the info correctly.

My setup is normally:

UBPx700 player -> Denon x4300h ->
(out 1) -> integral 2 -> jvc rs540
(out 2) -> Optoma DLP

(and only the optoma or jvc are on at one time)

removing the out 2 cable doesn’t seem to help, though I can’t swear I’ve tried power cycling the whole chain after unplugging it, etc.

Ideally I’d really like auto lipsync to work so it works with either projector and either latency setting. But if I have to I could settle with IR commands to adjust settings if I can figure out what is happening.

Thanks,
Bruce
Hello Bruce,

I think there is some confusion here, i'll try to explain.

First of all, when you have an issue, add config export as attachment, this will always speed up getting right answer in less time. Also if you have lipsync issue confirm if audio is ahead or late compared to video.

Second, there is nothing in AVI about lipsync, if you don't know how to decipher it, you can use any of our latest hardware: vertex2/diva/maestro, they all can decipher and expose values from it and create any AVI infoframe at will from dropdown selector menu.
Even audio infoframe does not carry anything about lipsync.

Third, Yes, there is a lipsync value somewhere in JVC and that is in its EDID, so with a config export in both modes (low latency on and off) i can tell you (if JVC does it) if this edid entry hidden in a certain descriptor is set or not.
Yet even if it's there, you still need a source that will react on it, not all sources care about it.

Last but not least, i think you can easily solve this by connecting the following way:

X700 > INTEGRAL2 > bot output to JVC / top output to Denon > OPTOMA.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1000 of 1014 Old 05-24-2020, 11:43 AM
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Thanks for the quick response.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
First of all, when you have an issue, add config export as attachment, this will always speed up getting right answer in less time. Also if you have lipsync issue confirm if audio is ahead or late compared to video.
You're right, I should have. Since I had problems like this before I got the Integral 2, I was thinking of using it as a tool to diagnose rather than to look at its own config. However, fortunately your answer I think explains it anyway

Quote:
Second, there is nothing in AVI about lipsync, if you don't know how to decipher it, you can use any of our latest hardware: vertex2/diva/maestro, they all can decipher and expose values from it and create any AVI infoframe at will from dropdown selector menu.
Yeah, I didn't fully realize the difference between the various devices when I got the Integral 2. Quite a few things would be easier with a newer device, but I'm not sure I have a reason to replace it yet...

Quote:
Third, Yes, there is a lipsync value somewhere in JVC and that is in its EDID, so with a config export in both modes (low latency on and off) i can tell you (if JVC does it) if this edid entry hidden in a certain descriptor is set or not.
Yet even if it's there, you still need a source that will react on it, not all sources care about it.
Ah, so even without my config, you explained what's going on here, I think . I'm using LLDV via the Full + BT2020 EDID that Mark (I think) shared. So even if the JVC is changing the lipsync in its EDID and the x4300h would react to it, what I'm actually doing is returning an EDID that (apparently) matches the JVC in low latency mode.

Quote:
Last but not least, i think you can easily solve this by connecting the following way:

X700 > INTEGRAL2 > bot output to JVC / top output to Denon > OPTOMA.
I'm curious how this would solve the problem. Does the Integral 2 know how to read the lip sync delay from the JVC and then delay the Denon signal by an appropriate amount? I had somewhat expected you to suggest going x700->Denon->JVC, which would drop the fake EDID from the chain. OTOH, with either of these approaches I would lose the ability to control the JVC picture mode using the RS232 out of the Integral2 because there would be paths to the JVC that didn't go through the Integral2 anymore.

If I leave the Integral2 where it is, would automix be able to combine the various color profile, LLDV, etc blocks with the audio EDID from the JVC? I'm a bit unclear on how powerful automix is on the Integral2, and it was certainly easier getting this to work just uploading the EDID into memory and using it that way.

The other option is to find the bytes in the fixed EDID and then have two versions of the fixed EDID to match the JVC in low/normal latency and then switch between them when I change the mode of the JVC. At some point this gets too complicated, though....

Thanks,
Bruce
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post #1001 of 1014 Old 05-24-2020, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lowekamp View Post
Thanks for the quick response.



1.You're right, I should have. Since I had problems like this before I got the Integral 2, I was thinking of using it as a tool to diagnose rather than to look at its own config. However, fortunately your answer I think explains it anyway



2.Yeah, I didn't fully realize the difference between the various devices when I got the Integral 2. Quite a few things would be easier with a newer device, but I'm not sure I have a reason to replace it yet...



3.Ah, so even without my config, you explained what's going on here, I think . I'm using LLDV via the Full + BT2020 EDID that Mark (I think) shared. So even if the JVC is changing the lipsync in its EDID and the x4300h would react to it, what I'm actually doing is returning an EDID that (apparently) matches the JVC in low latency mode.



4. I'm curious how this would solve the problem. Does the Integral 2 know how to read the lip sync delay from the JVC and then delay the Denon signal by an appropriate amount? I had somewhat expected you to suggest going x700->Denon->JVC, which would drop the fake EDID from the chain. OTOH, with either of these approaches I would lose the ability to control the JVC picture mode using the RS232 out of the Integral2 because there would be paths to the JVC that didn't go through the Integral2 anymore.

5.If I leave the Integral2 where it is, would automix be able to combine the various color profile, LLDV, etc blocks with the audio EDID from the JVC? I'm a bit unclear on how powerful automix is on the Integral2, and it was certainly easier getting this to work just uploading the EDID into memory and using it that way.

6.The other option is to find the bytes in the fixed EDID and then have two versions of the fixed EDID to match the JVC in low/normal latency and then switch between them when I change the mode of the JVC. At some point this gets too complicated, though....

Thanks,
Bruce
1. If you had problem with this before, doesn't that led to denon not paying attention to JVC EDID in this regard (if it does change anything at all, not verified currently)

2. May be you just found one

3. Yes so using new generation you could use automix with custom dv string, so your pj edid is reflected and DV string inserted on the fly to it.

4. Well you haven't said if sound is ahead or late. Usually splitting output would solve any kind of lipsync issue, since sound is usually ahead when AVR is between source and display and sound is usually a bit late when SOURCE > DISPLAY > ARC > AUDIO SYSTEM. When you split source output between audio and video, then both get and deal with same signal at the same time. I'm not sure how you would lose the ability to control JVC picture mode using RS232, it does not change anything that.

5. You need new generation for that, since you need to insert DV custom string on the fly.

6. You can also ask owners of Vertex2/Diva/Maestro to dump JVC edid with custom DV string, once with low latency, once normally and then load them as custom edid.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1002 of 1014 Old 05-26-2020, 09:13 PM
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Hi Guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I've read as much of this thread as I can understand and purchased an Intergral 2 for my setup, which is as follows:

XBOX One X ---> Integral 2 Input 0

Integral 2 Output 0 ---> Samsung KS9000 4K TV HDMI1

Integral 2 Output 1 ---> Samsung HW-K950 Soundbar HDMI1

There is a HDMI connecting the TV and Soundbar via ARC, but the presence of this doesn't seem to make a difference either way.

I purchased the XBOX One X yesterday as I previously had an XBOX One original which would output Dolby ATMOS, but not 4K visual.

Effectively, it all appears to be setup correctly and the Windows GUI shows everything as it should be (4K visual and Bitstream Audio). Issue I have is that I am only able to achieve sound by changing the XBOX One X visual resolution from 4K back to 1080p. I have not been able to get any sound at all to the soundbar without reverting to 1080p, which I could have achieved via ARC with my old XBOX and still have $550aud in my pocket!

Not sure if this is relevant, but previously I had 'AVR Speaker' followed by 'DOLBY ATMOS' flash across the screen when using the old XBOX at any time (it seemed to upscale anything to ATMOS).

Now, the soundbar shows 'TV Speaker' and sound is lost immediately upon selecting 4K in the XBOX One X visual settings.

I'm clever enough to know this can work, just not enough to figure it out. I'm using 2.2/4K cabling for all connections.

Any help is much appreciated!
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post #1003 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 05:39 AM
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Hi Guys,

Long time lurker, first time poster. I've read as much of this thread as I can understand and purchased an Intergral 2 for my setup, which is as follows:

XBOX One X ---> Integral 2 Input 0

Integral 2 Output 0 ---> Samsung KS9000 4K TV HDMI1

Integral 2 Output 1 ---> Samsung HW-K950 Soundbar HDMI1

There is a HDMI connecting the TV and Soundbar via ARC, but the presence of this doesn't seem to make a difference either way.

I purchased the XBOX One X yesterday as I previously had an XBOX One original which would output Dolby ATMOS, but not 4K visual.

Effectively, it all appears to be setup correctly and the Windows GUI shows everything as it should be (4K visual and Bitstream Audio). Issue I have is that I am only able to achieve sound by changing the XBOX One X visual resolution from 4K back to 1080p. I have not been able to get any sound at all to the soundbar without reverting to 1080p, which I could have achieved via ARC with my old XBOX and still have $550aud in my pocket!

Not sure if this is relevant, but previously I had 'AVR Speaker' followed by 'DOLBY ATMOS' flash across the screen when using the old XBOX at any time (it seemed to upscale anything to ATMOS).

Now, the soundbar shows 'TV Speaker' and sound is lost immediately upon selecting 4K in the XBOX One X visual settings.

I'm clever enough to know this can work, just not enough to figure it out. I'm using 2.2/4K cabling for all connections.

Any help is much appreciated!
If you had read the thread then

1. you would know the solution already
2. you would know that you need to post config export when issue is happening
3. You would have deducted that there is a cable issue in your setup but that's not a big deal, read below.

This being said, do number 2 so we can verify your settings and go in GUI > SCALING > AUTOSCALING and change all 3 preset from default AUTOSENSE to lowest 1080p

After that, TV get 4K and soundbar will get full audio via 1080p which will work just fine.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1004 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 06:52 AM
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Thanks again for all the help. Finally got back to looking at this after the problem I had with color spaces...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
1. If you had problem with this before, doesn't that led to denon not paying attention to JVC EDID in this regard (if it does change anything at all, not verified currently)
Yeah, I definitely had the problem before. I decided maybe the Integral2 could help me figure out what's going on or fix it. So this morning I tested by switching the JVC low latency on/off and clicking read TV0 EDID. Got the same EDID both times (confirmed by downloading it and comparing the files), which I assume means the JVC doesn't actually change lipsync properly. I suspect I had some modes in low latency and some not which is why I saw different lipsync behaviors before. But I had never tracked it down.

I'm going to post in the JVC support thread to see if anyone else has confirmed, though as someone else has already said lip sync has never worked, I think it's sort of confirmed already.

Quote:
2. May be you just found one

3. Yes so using new generation you could use automix with custom dv string, so your pj edid is reflected and DV string inserted on the fly to it.
I hate to do it but am leaning toward returning the Integral2 to monoprice and buying a Vertex2 instead. Especially hate it b/c I can't even get the vertex2 from monoprice and I hate to do that to a vendor. Automixing won't solve this but if I can manually adjust the lipsync delay, LLDV target nits, etc then I can get the EDID adjusted the way I want.

Bruce
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post #1005 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 07:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce Lowekamp View Post
Thanks again for all the help. Finally got back to looking at this after the problem I had with color spaces...



1. Yeah, I definitely had the problem before. I decided maybe the Integral2 could help me figure out what's going on or fix it. So this morning I tested by switching the JVC low latency on/off and clicking read TV0 EDID. Got the same EDID both times (confirmed by downloading it and comparing the files), which I assume means the JVC doesn't actually change lipsync properly. I suspect I had some modes in low latency and some not which is why I saw different lipsync behaviors before. But I had never tracked it down.

I'm going to post in the JVC support thread to see if anyone else has confirmed, though as someone else has already said lip sync has never worked, I think it's sort of confirmed already.



2. I hate to do it but am leaning toward returning the Integral2 to monoprice and buying a Vertex2 instead. Especially hate it b/c I can't even get the vertex2 from monoprice and I hate to do that to a vendor. Automixing won't solve this but if I can manually adjust the lipsync delay, LLDV target nits, etc then I can get the EDID adjusted the way I want.

Bruce
1. That tends to indicate that low latency is just inner processing setting, prolly JVC will make less processing when this is applied.
As i wrote before, even if JVC was editing this edid descriptor correctly, we are not sure the other equipment in the chain would react to it and the fact that they are not doing it, already indicate that more likely very few components will pay attention to it.

2. We do not have any manual editor for this lipsync value at the moment, may be in the future as we are working on an HDMI2.1 edid device that will have lot of feature and more likely this one, once done, we will port the work to vertex2/diva/maestro


PS: i'm not sure why monoprice is not yet stocking any newer devices. if you have problem, send email to our guys, they will more likely find a solution for you.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1006 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
If you had read the thread then

1. you would know the solution already
2. you would know that you need to post config export when issue is happening
3. You would have deducted that there is a cable issue in your setup but that's not a big deal, read below.

This being said, do number 2 so we can verify your settings and go in GUI > SCALING > AUTOSCALING and change all 3 preset from default AUTOSENSE to lowest 1080p

After that, TV get 4K and soundbar will get full audio via 1080p which will work just fine.
Hee hee. I only said I read the thread, not that I remembered any of it!

So, I've now attached my config file, apologies, I forgot all about that in my frustration yesterday when I couldn't get it to work.

Making the changes in the auto scaling screen worked for Disney+ (Viewing 4K and ATMOS without issue) but not on Netflix. Opening the Netflix app immediately removes all sound and my soundbar then seems to glitch between 'HDMI1' and 'AVR Speaker'. Almost seems like it's being fed a new signal every 2 seconds or so and gets stuck in a loop.

I did reset the unit after this, and now I have the same issue with Disney+.

Apologies for being a bit of a noob, I probably underestimated the issue originally.

As always, any help is much appreciated.
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File Type: txt config.txt (7.1 KB, 2 views)
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post #1007 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 05:02 PM
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Hee hee. I only said I read the thread, not that I remembered any of it!

So, I've now attached my config file, apologies, I forgot all about that in my frustration yesterday when I couldn't get it to work.

Making the changes in the auto scaling screen worked for Disney+ (Viewing 4K and ATMOS without issue) but not on Netflix. Opening the Netflix app immediately removes all sound and my soundbar then seems to glitch between 'HDMI1' and 'AVR Speaker'. Almost seems like it's being fed a new signal every 2 seconds or so and gets stuck in a loop.

I did reset the unit after this, and now I have the same issue with Disney+.

Apologies for being a bit of a noob, I probably underestimated the issue originally.

As always, any help is much appreciated.

No problem, i was joking !

1. Reflash last firmware or unlock the unit (device is locked, on latest firmware, after firmware flash, there is no need to unlock anymore)
2. Go in GUI > EDID > select AUTOMIX > select AUDIO FLAG : TOP MAX.
3. prolly optional: Go in SCALING > AUTOSCALING > change all 3 presets from AUTOSENSE to lower 1080p possible), this is ease to soundbar handling of the video stream that bring the sound in.

Restart your source and retry.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1008 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 10:55 PM
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No problem, i was joking !

1. Reflash last firmware or unlock the unit (device is locked, on latest firmware, after firmware flash, there is no need to unlock anymore)
2. Go in GUI > EDID > select AUTOMIX > select AUDIO FLAG : TOP MAX.
3. prolly optional: Go in SCALING > AUTOSCALING > change all 3 presets from AUTOSENSE to lower 1080p possible), this is ease to soundbar handling of the video stream that bring the sound in.

Restart your source and retry.
All good mate, I took it as a joke. I'm new to all of this, so really appreciative of your help.

I'll give this a go and let you know how I get on!

Thanks again
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post #1009 of 1014 Old 05-27-2020, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by HDfury View Post
No problem, i was joking !

1. Reflash last firmware or unlock the unit (device is locked, on latest firmware, after firmware flash, there is no need to unlock anymore)
2. Go in GUI > EDID > select AUTOMIX > select AUDIO FLAG : TOP MAX.
3. prolly optional: Go in SCALING > AUTOSCALING > change all 3 presets from AUTOSENSE to lower 1080p possible), this is ease to soundbar handling of the video stream that bring the sound in.

Restart your source and retry.
Alright, now I'm making some progress!

Updated config is attached.

4K is all good, I'm getting sound, but only able to select up to 'DTS Digital Surround'.

When I select 'Dolby Atmos for Home Theatre' on the XBOX One X it tells me 'Check your audio receiver, make sure it supports ATMOS etc etc' and defaults back to DTS.

All of the glitching is gone, but the soundbar doesn't say anything at all now and no blue ATMOS light.

Thanks again for your help!
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File Type: txt config2.txt (7.1 KB, 3 views)
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post #1010 of 1014 Old 05-28-2020, 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Jorpus View Post
Alright, now I'm making some progress!

Updated config is attached.

4K is all good, I'm getting sound, but only able to select up to 'DTS Digital Surround'.

When I select 'Dolby Atmos for Home Theatre' on the XBOX One X it tells me 'Check your audio receiver, make sure it supports ATMOS etc etc' and defaults back to DTS.

All of the glitching is gone, but the soundbar doesn't say anything at all now and no blue ATMOS light.

Thanks again for your help!
The soundbar was not ON when you exported this config, or if it was on, it was on another input or had negociated ARC with the TV. That's the only problem i'm seeing on this config.

RX0: 4K59.934 RGB L 8b 593MHz
TX0: 4K59.934 RGB L 8b 593MHz
TX1: connected but on standby

There is 3 ways to transmit atmos, 1 is specific to ATV4K (by using Dolby MAT2.0) and 2 others way are ATMOS over DD+ and ATMOS over TRUE HD.
So verify which way Xbox use and make sure your soundbar support that way too. Otherwise, for sure, it won't work.

You can also use a custom EDID that allow full sound like default edid 11 and then your XBOX cannot refuse to send ATMOS, and then you can verify if this works but of course if your soundbar goes in ARC mode , then same problem will happen.

Please note that you can also disconnect soundbar output from TV hdmi input and use optical from TV to soundbar for TV sound. or you can use Integral2 to retrieve ARC and then optical out from integral2 to soundbar optical in.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1011 of 1014 Old 05-28-2020, 08:32 PM
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The soundbar was not ON when you exported this config, or if it was on, it was on another input or had negociated ARC with the TV. That's the only problem i'm seeing on this config.

RX0: 4K59.934 RGB L 8b 593MHz
TX0: 4K59.934 RGB L 8b 593MHz
TX1: connected but on standby

There is 3 ways to transmit atmos, 1 is specific to ATV4K (by using Dolby MAT2.0) and 2 others way are ATMOS over DD+ and ATMOS over TRUE HD.
So verify which way Xbox use and make sure your soundbar support that way too. Otherwise, for sure, it won't work.

You can also use a custom EDID that allow full sound like default edid 11 and then your XBOX cannot refuse to send ATMOS, and then you can verify if this works but of course if your soundbar goes in ARC mode , then same problem will happen.

Please note that you can also disconnect soundbar output from TV hdmi input and use optical from TV to soundbar for TV sound. or you can use Integral2 to retrieve ARC and then optical out from integral2 to soundbar optical in.
Sorry mate, I've attached a new config file.

Dolby ATMOS is definitely working (sometimes).

XBOX One X now allows me to select Dolby Atmos and I'm no longer getting the error message.

All of the demo videos in the Dolby Access app are playing perfectly (both picture and sound). Soundbar recognises that it's receiving ATMOS from the moment the XBOX One X boots up, so that's perfect.

Now having issues with both Netflix and Disney+. Picture is fine, but I'm getting no sound.

Both apps show the ATMOS logo on various titles, but when I play them, the soundbar goes into it's little 'AVR SPEAKER - HDMI1' loop and I get no sound at all. Returning to the main XBOX menu brings back ATMOS.

ARC events only seem to be triggered when a different input source is selected on the TV. Eg: When on XBOX, I can hit source on the TV, select Foxtel (Sky for some) and it will automatically change to TV ARC for the sound, which is great, because it makes it a little idiot proof for my mrs and kids. I'd prefer not to use Optical if I can get away with it, as I understand this functionality will then be lost.

I've previously had ATMOS working exactly as above but it also worked with Netflix and Disney+ at that time (albeit with no 4K as I had the original XBOX which doesn't support it. Hoping there is a setting I have incorrect?

I'm 99.9% sure that the XBOX One X and Samsung HW-K950 will talk to each other, as I've heard it working in the Dolby Access app and also on main menu screens and the like, just not with Disney+ or Netflix.

Also found an early review of ATMOS on Xbox (on Forbes) which specifically notes that he tested it with a HW-K950. I'd post a link, but I don't have a high enough post count yet.

Thank you very much again for your ongoing support and patience with my lack of knowledge!
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post #1012 of 1014 Old 05-29-2020, 12:27 AM
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Sorry mate, I've attached a new config file.

Dolby ATMOS is definitely working (sometimes).

XBOX One X now allows me to select Dolby Atmos and I'm no longer getting the error message.

All of the demo videos in the Dolby Access app are playing perfectly (both picture and sound). Soundbar recognises that it's receiving ATMOS from the moment the XBOX One X boots up, so that's perfect.

Now having issues with both Netflix and Disney+. Picture is fine, but I'm getting no sound.

Both apps show the ATMOS logo on various titles, but when I play them, the soundbar goes into it's little 'AVR SPEAKER - HDMI1' loop and I get no sound at all. Returning to the main XBOX menu brings back ATMOS.

ARC events only seem to be triggered when a different input source is selected on the TV. Eg: When on XBOX, I can hit source on the TV, select Foxtel (Sky for some) and it will automatically change to TV ARC for the sound, which is great, because it makes it a little idiot proof for my mrs and kids. I'd prefer not to use Optical if I can get away with it, as I understand this functionality will then be lost.

I've previously had ATMOS working exactly as above but it also worked with Netflix and Disney+ at that time (albeit with no 4K as I had the original XBOX which doesn't support it. Hoping there is a setting I have incorrect?

I'm 99.9% sure that the XBOX One X and Samsung HW-K950 will talk to each other, as I've heard it working in the Dolby Access app and also on main menu screens and the like, just not with Disney+ or Netflix.

Also found an early review of ATMOS on Xbox (on Forbes) which specifically notes that he tested it with a HW-K950. I'd post a link, but I don't have a high enough post count yet.

Thank you very much again for your ongoing support and patience with my lack of knowledge!
Look, do a simple test, turn everything off, remove soundbar output HDMI cable going to TV ARC input, turn everything on and play xbox netflix or xbox disney, any problem getting atmos in this case ?

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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post #1013 of 1014 Old 05-29-2020, 01:04 AM
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Look, do a simple test, turn everything off, remove soundbar output HDMI cable going to TV ARC input, turn everything on and play xbox netflix or xbox disney, any problem getting atmos in this case ?
Genius! That fixed everything. Thank you so much.

I'll just run the Foxtel through the XBOX one X for now and control everything that way.

No doubt I'll be back at some point with some more silly questions/issues.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help mate, thanks again!
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post #1014 of 1014 Old 05-29-2020, 03:43 AM
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Genius! That fixed everything. Thank you so much.

I'll just run the Foxtel through the XBOX one X for now and control everything that way.

No doubt I'll be back at some point with some more silly questions/issues.

I really appreciate you taking the time to help mate, thanks again!
Ok so the problem is that your TV is negotiating ARC for who knows which reason when you are starting a streaming apps, may be Xbox have CEC option that tell TV it can retrieve sound (not sure if xbox have any cec at all, i remember having read it does not have any), i'm not sure, may be that's just how it is with your TV.
We can try another firmware to see if it helps this issue, just export config before update, update and then reimport config back so you don't have to redo settings.
More easily you can just put an optical cable between TV and soundbar optical in, or eventually you can use Integral2 to retrieve ARC from TV and then from Integral2 optical out to soundbar optical IN.
Or you can use with foxtel at xbox input as you have it...

See PM for test FW.

Maestro: 4I/4O +4K HDR over HDBT +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver. [Won Best Product Award]
Diva: 4I/3O +Ambient Light +Lag Tester +4K HDR > 1080p SDR +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +autoswitch +webserver.
Vertex2: 4I/3O +Autoswitch any sources +HDMI/ARC/eARC sound to AVR input +webserver.
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