NVIDIA Shield (Android TV set-top box) - Page 303 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9061 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by IAH View Post
So when shopping for a NAS, I do not need to worry about it's ability to act as a server? since my shield will be the server? This has been one of my concerns.
If you just want your NAS to act as “storage“ for your media files and you are going to run the Plex server somewhere else, like on your Shield, then you don’t have to worry about buying a NAS that can run the Plex server (which as you have found out can be prohibitively expensive). Here is some good info to help you understand this topic -

https://support.plex.tv/articles/201...-right-for-me/

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post #9062 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 11:49 AM
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So when shopping for a NAS, I do not need to worry about it's ability to act as a server? since my shield will be the server? This has been one of my concerns.
...and I run a Synology DS213 that contains all my content with the Plex server running on one of my Shields. Works great. I highly recommend the Synology NAS devices.

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post #9063 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 11:58 AM
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Thank you mjwagner.

So the Synology would probably be a better option than the WD My Book since it has the ability to swap hdd's in and out? and it seems to have a very intuitive user interface?
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post #9064 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 01:46 PM
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I just set up my Nvidia shield, which was not surprisingly a present yesterday. It is replacing a Firestick 4K. In general I am happy with many of its features and picture. I am very happy using it as a Plex Media Server which set up very easily.

The problem is that I am not at all enamored of the transport controls. Obviously, there are no forward/reverse buttons on the plain remote but trying the various apps I have found out how to move forward and back though not nearly with the precision I would like or I can achieve with the Firestick. The real deal breaker is NHL TV. I don't know if others are using the Shield to stream sports, but the lack of any transport controls is terrible. It takes several presses to get to the point where you can go forward or back and when you do it is in 8 minute 30 second increments. Obviously this is not acceptable. I have not found any way to go forward or back any other amount. In addition to the basic remote I also have the control app on my Android phone. It only recreates the basic remote's controls and does not add any additional functionality.

I do not have the game controller which I see has several additional buttons on it. Would any of these function as transport controls? I do not use Harmony remotes but do have mult OFA remotes which I program with a JP1 cable. If I can get such a remote to work with the Shield via FLIRC, I will keep it. Otherwise this is a deal breaker.

So, I would appreciate hearing from anyone about pursuing this. I know there are lots of people who have multiple streaming devices and use them for different apps. I have no interest in doing this and if I can't improve the transport controls, the Shield is going back.

Thanks.

SMK
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post #9065 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by mjwagner View Post
If you just want your NAS to act as “storage“ for your media files and you are going to run the Plex server somewhere else, like on your Shield, then you don’t have to worry about buying a NAS that can run the Plex server (which as you have found out can be prohibitively expensive).
I think this is somewhat granular. I run Plex Media Server on my (less than $100) ODROID XU4 (NAS). As long as I don't have to transcode more than one stream concurrently it simply works. Typically I don't transcode at all so it's never an issue. I do think if you are wanting to go transcode crazy it's best not to use a NAS for such.
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post #9066 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 03:25 PM
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One thing to remember when streaming to a Shield is that virtually nothing requires transcoding. The Shield will play any codec in any container that I've encountered so far. So any NAS storage device would be fine. However, if you have other network devices that you would like to stream to, transcoding might become something to consider. I just use a regular PC on my network to act as my DLNA server and media storage center. You could build a pretty inexpensive media PC (using Linux would be the best value) that can support transcoding a couple of streams at a time.

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post #9067 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 06:19 PM
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Would a strong desktop computer with an external hard drive (for media) work as a server from which to stream (and transcode)?
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post #9068 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by IAH View Post
Would a strong desktop computer with an external hard drive (for media) work as a server from which to stream (and transcode)?
Mine does. I'm using a Dell PC for my UHD Plex server. It has an 8th gen core i5(8400) with a 6TB 7200 rpm internal drive and an 8TB 5400 rpm USB drive.

Then for my Plex broadcast content I use a Lenovo PC with the 4th Gen core i5. It uses a 6TB drive. But the Lenovo is also used with my TiVos and the content is transferred automatically to the Plex machine and automatically converted to a format for plex to use.
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post #9069 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by IAH View Post
Thank you mjwagner.

So the Synology would probably be a better option than the WD My Book since it has the ability to swap hdd's in and out? and it seems to have a very intuitive user interface?
I have played around with the WD MyBook NAS a bit (my son-in-law has one) and was not impressed as compared to my Synology NAS. YMMV.
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post #9070 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by IAH View Post
Would a strong desktop computer with an external hard drive (for media) work as a server from which to stream (and transcode)?
Yep, same as Aaron. In fact I'm using my media PC right now while streaming media to a Blu Ray player as well as copying a bunch of files that I just ripped onto a portable hard drive. My CPU usage is about 10%, but I'm not transcoding anything right now. If I have to transcode, I'll see the CPU jump to 80-90%, but that really doesn't mean much. The computer itself remains responsive even at 100% CPU, as it's spread across 4 cores and 8 GIG of ram. I have 5 hard drives (not counting the OS drive, which is an SSD M.2 card on the motherboard) from 1-5 TB each. I spread my media across multiple drives so it increased the chances that multiple streams come from different drives. It also means a HD failure doesn't take all my media with it. All together I have about 14 TB of drive space for my media and other storage. I too have an i5, a 6400 at 2.70 GHz. My home network is wired gigabit, and have a couple of 802.11n access points for wireless connections. Never have a buffering issue with anything.

I personally wouldn't use an external drive, as you have the potential of saturating the USB interface with different streams. But it does allow a smaller case. I have a tall tower with plenty of room inside, but with smaller cases external drive(s) might work better for you. Just my personal preference, not saying it's the only way to go. External works great for others as well.
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post #9071 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charles R View Post
I think this is somewhat granular. I run Plex Media Server on my (less than $100) ODROID XU4 (NAS). As long as I don't have to transcode more than one stream concurrently it simply works. Typically I don't transcode at all so it's never an issue. I do think if you are wanting to go transcode crazy it's best not to use a NAS for such.
But that’s the point. Using the NAS, like I do, for just storing the content, and running the Plex server on the Shield, the NAS isn’t doing any transcoding at all.
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post #9072 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 07:46 PM
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@IAH ,

Another thumbs up for Synology here. I have three total doing various jobs and so far they, as well as support, have been great. One that I bought in early 2011 (that I’m using now to back up a newer one) has a few WD green hd’s that I had originally installed and are approaching 70k hours!


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post #9073 of 13810 Old 12-26-2018, 08:20 PM
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Thanks for your responses guys. A lot to think about! But I do feel more informed now.
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post #9074 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 01:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyGBiv View Post
I just set up my Nvidia shield, which was not surprisingly a present yesterday. It is replacing a Firestick 4K. In general I am happy with many of its features and picture. I am very happy using it as a Plex Media Server which set up very easily.

The problem is that I am not at all enamored of the transport controls. Obviously, there are no forward/reverse buttons on the plain remote but trying the various apps I have found out how to move forward and back though not nearly with the precision I would like or I can achieve with the Firestick. The real deal breaker is NHL TV. I don't know if others are using the Shield to stream sports, but the lack of any transport controls is terrible. It takes several presses to get to the point where you can go forward or back and when you do it is in 8 minute 30 second increments. Obviously this is not acceptable. I have not found any way to go forward or back any other amount. In addition to the basic remote I also have the control app on my Android phone. It only recreates the basic remote's controls and does not add any additional functionality.

I do not have the game controller which I see has several additional buttons on it. Would any of these function as transport controls? I do not use Harmony remotes but do have mult OFA remotes which I program with a JP1 cable. If I can get such a remote to work with the Shield via FLIRC, I will keep it. Otherwise this is a deal breaker.

So, I would appreciate hearing from anyone about pursuing this. I know there are lots of people who have multiple streaming devices and use them for different apps. I have no interest in doing this and if I can't improve the transport controls, the Shield is going back.

Thanks.

SMK



The Shield supports the FF and RW commands, so the FLIRC option should work. Another one would be to use the Fire stick remote if you don't have to give it away. It should work, I paired mine with a chromebox and then gave them to someone. I don't remember exactly, but I think I paired it with the Shield too. If you have problems, ask in the nvidia forums, the new update broke some things, I think I saw that the PS3 controller doesn't connect anymore. It should get fixed soon.


A third option would be to sideload the app that is on the fire tv, I saw that it has different controls. You would also have to sideload the amazon app store and log in with the amazon account under which you have used the NHL app because it will verify that you own the app every time you launch it.
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post #9075 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by RoyGBiv View Post
I just set up my Nvidia shield, which was not surprisingly a present yesterday. It is replacing a Firestick 4K. In general I am happy with many of its features and picture. I am very happy using it as a Plex Media Server which set up very easily.

The problem is that I am not at all enamored of the transport controls. Obviously, there are no forward/reverse buttons on the plain remote but trying the various apps I have found out how to move forward and back though not nearly with the precision I would like or I can achieve with the Firestick. The real deal breaker is NHL TV. I don't know if others are using the Shield to stream sports, but the lack of any transport controls is terrible. It takes several presses to get to the point where you can go forward or back and when you do it is in 8 minute 30 second increments. Obviously this is not acceptable. I have not found any way to go forward or back any other amount. In addition to the basic remote I also have the control app on my Android phone. It only recreates the basic remote's controls and does not add any additional functionality.

I do not have the game controller which I see has several additional buttons on it. Would any of these function as transport controls? I do not use Harmony remotes but do have mult OFA remotes which I program with a JP1 cable. If I can get such a remote to work with the Shield via FLIRC, I will keep it. Otherwise this is a deal breaker.

So, I would appreciate hearing from anyone about pursuing this. I know there are lots of people who have multiple streaming devices and use them for different apps. I have no interest in doing this and if I can't improve the transport controls, the Shield is going back.

Thanks.


SMK

The game controller does a great job at handling the transport controls. The original remote got stored away in the box from day 1.. it's not adequate for full control of the player. high recommend to pick one up before you send it back.
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post #9076 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 06:52 AM
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Thank you both for some great information. I am going to try pairing the Firestick remote first. If that doesn't help, I will look at the JP1 support of Hifi-remote.com to see if there is someone there using a JP1 remote with the Shield. The important thing is that the box itself supports these commands.


I would also say that having just played around with the Shield for a few hours it is much quicker than the Firestick. One of the things I prefer about the Shield is using it as a PMS. I have two 8TB hard drives on my desktop computer that contain my media files. Plex on the shield responds much more quickly to either starting a movie or moving around in it than the Firestick did. The other apps seem more responsive, and so far watching something on Amazon Prime has not resulted in the commercials I was getting when watching a Prime movie on the Firestick.


Thanks for the help.


SMK
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post #9077 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 09:04 AM
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A big thanks to Harvos. It took some doing, but I was able to pair the Firestick remote with the Shield, and all the transport controls work as they should on NHL TV. I have not tested all the apps, but I imagine they will work similarly. This is going to greatly increase my enjoyment of the Shield.

Thanks.

SMK
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post #9078 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 10:19 AM
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Thanks for your responses guys. A lot to think about! But I do feel more informed now.
I have found that a relatively cheap windows laptop with a modern CPU makes a good Plex media server. They are small, low power, and you don't need an external monitor to set up like a NUC. I bought a $600 Acer 14" laptop from Costco last year with an 8th gen core i5. I rarely need to transcode but even if I do the i5 GPU has hardware encoding that Plex supports for both h.264 and h.265 so it handles it perfectly fine. I had thought about a NAS but there wasn't much of a need for the extra cost or complexity over direct attached storage. I had been using a bunch of external USB drives pooled together using Drivepool with 2x duplication (highly recommend this software). I recently switched to a 4 bay Mediasonic enclosure with 2 WD Red 10TB drives and then extracted two 2.5" 5TB USB Seagate drives I had been using and put them in the enclosure as well. Again used Drivepool. So now almost 30TB on one pooled drive but since I duplicate everything only 15TB effective space. I have found this type of setup simple and very effective without too much cost. Never tried using the Shield as the server. I prefer to have more control over everything on the PC and be able to remote in do anything I need.
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post #9079 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 12:45 PM
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With the 8th Gen i5, the software encoding works better and much faster than the hardware encoding does.

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post #9080 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 01:25 PM
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With the 8th Gen i5, the software encoding works better and much faster than the hardware encoding does.
I don't do too much transcoding as it's always direct play on my main home theater setup. It's mostly when the kids are watching on tablets at home or remotely when travelling. So the difference in quality is not noticeable in those scenarios and I have found at least on my system the hardware trasncoding to be less taxing. I have found that software struggles as expected with a 4K/HDR transcode but hardware handles it ok. However it is somewhat useless as Plex can't do a proper HDR-SDR conversion so it looks awful anyway. I just keep a 1080P copy. I have gone back and forth between software and hardware transcoding when syncing files for trips and have noticed that hardware doesn't seem to be much faster though.

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post #9081 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 06:12 PM
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Someone help me understand this. The first pic is blu ray on xbox one x. The second pic is an makemkv rip of that exact same disc on mrmc 3.7.1

Same volume on the AVR - the audio is a solid 10db louder on the xbox and the bass is WAY better on the disc vs the rip. I was honestly afraid my subs had kicked the bucket at the start of the mrmc playthrough.

What am I doing wrong? Shield is set to passthrough. Receiver is set to direct decode on both.

Also look at the range! the blu ray has way more variance in the numbers than the mrmc/shield.


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Based on that, and if it is the same exact track and scene, then looks like dynamic compression is enabled somewhere in the chain with the Shield, most likely in the Shield itself.

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post #9082 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 08:46 PM
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Based on that, and if it is the same exact track and scene, then looks like dynamic compression is enabled somewhere in the chain with the Shield, most likely in the Shield itself.
I am deciding between the Shield and Apple TV 4K.

I am confused about the audio output options and sending out uncompressed sound. My understanding is that the Shield can send out an uncompressed Atmos or DTS-X signal while the Apple TV converts the audio signal to PCM.

My question is what apps send out an uncompressed audio signal? I would assume Amazon, Hulu, Netflix and others send out a PCM version of Atmos and other audio formats.

Put another way, how do you take advantage of the Shield's ability to send out uncompressed audio bitrates? Lastly, what does it mean by "pass-through" in regards to audio?

I'd really appreciate some help with this!

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post #9083 of 13810 Old 12-27-2018, 11:30 PM
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I have trouble with one of my UHD rips, but I suspect the rip didn't go well, as the audio is out of sync with the video. All other TrueHD/Atmos and DTS-MA/:X tracks play perfectly.
The out of sync is likely just a quirk in the MKV, and not a bad rip. Try adjusting the audio offset to fix it. It’s pretty easy with VLC and MKVToolNix.
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post #9084 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post
I am deciding between the Shield and Apple TV 4K.



I am confused about the audio output options and sending out uncompressed sound. My understanding is that the Shield can send out an uncompressed Atmos or DTS-X signal while the Apple TV converts the audio signal to PCM.



My question is what apps send out an uncompressed audio signal? I would assume Amazon, Hulu, Netflix and others send out a PCM version of Atmos and other audio formats.



Put another way, how do you take advantage of the Shield's ability to send out uncompressed audio bitrates? Lastly, what does it mean by "pass-through" in regards to audio?



I'd really appreciate some help with this!


The only video source that has uncompressed (lossless) audio are physical Blu-ray disks. No video streaming services send lossless audio at this time.


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post #9085 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 02:30 AM
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I am confused about the audio output options and sending out uncompressed sound. My understanding is that the Shield can send out an uncompressed Atmos or DTS-X signal while the Apple TV converts the audio signal to PCM.
1, The correct term is not uncompressed but it is "undecoded". Since neither the Shield, or ATV4 has an Atmos/DTSx decoder they need to pass the signal "bitstreamed" without any manipulation. This is called "pass through".

Quote:

My question is what apps send out an uncompressed audio signal? I would assume Amazon, Hulu, Netflix and others send out a PCM version of Atmos and other audio formats.
All of those use compressed Dolby Digital + codecs which can carry the metadata of Atmos in the case of Netflix, and Amazon. Both the Shield and ATV4 can decode DD+ and it will convert it to PCM, however Atmos will be lost in the process. Again use "pass through" and have your AV receiver to do the decoding provided that it has Atmos decoding capability. If Atmos is not a priority than it won't matter where the decoding takes place.

Quote:
Put another way, how do you take advantage of the Shield's ability to send out uncompressed audio bitrates? Lastly, what does it mean by "pass-through" in regards to audio?

I'd really appreciate some help with this!
See A1 for pass through, and that is what you need to get pure source direct sound to your AV receiver so it can decode it directly. Keep in mind that the Shield needs apps to do anything, since it doesn't even have a native file browser system.
In short both players can do Atmos via the popular streaming platforms, but via Dolby Digital + only, since that is the codec being used on all streaming platforms currently, the Shield can play back via apps like Plex, Kodi MRMc, local files of your own that has Dolby True HD , DTS HD MA, Atmos and DTSX, if those apps set up correctly to "pass through" those signals bitstream via HDMI connection only.

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post #9086 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 02:50 AM
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Originally Posted by thehun View Post
Based on that, and if it is the same exact track and scene, then looks like dynamic compression is enabled somewhere in the chain with the Shield, most likely in the Shield itself.


Ideas on how to turn that off?


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post #9087 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 05:05 AM
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NVIDIA Shield (Android TV set-top box)

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Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post
I am deciding between the Shield and Apple TV 4K.



I am confused about the audio output options and sending out uncompressed sound. My understanding is that the Shield can send out an uncompressed Atmos or DTS-X signal while the Apple TV converts the audio signal to PCM.



My question is what apps send out an uncompressed audio signal? I would assume Amazon, Hulu, Netflix and others send out a PCM version of Atmos and other audio formats.



Put another way, how do you take advantage of the Shield's ability to send out uncompressed audio bitrates? Lastly, what does it mean by "pass-through" in regards to audio?



I'd really appreciate some help with this!


All streaming services send out lossy. And both devices can play those.
To get lossless it has to be your own rips from disc. And you can get truehd and dts-ma hd from both as well.

PCM just means the audio was decoded by the device and pass through it was decoded by the receiver. The audio coming out of your speakers is the same in either case.

FYI, I own both devices.

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post #9088 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
Ideas on how to turn that off?


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Settings: Display and sound- advanced setting- Dynamic range set to "Auto" which is the recommended by Shield.
But quiet frankly all that should be bypassed by MRMc as it has and uses it's own media player, and I just looked that app doesn't have a DR setting.
Was this a True HD track you were playing?

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post #9089 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 05:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thehun View Post
Settings: Display and sound- advanced setting- Dynamic range set to "Auto" which is the recommended by Shield.
But quiet frankly all that should be bypassed by MRMc as it has and uses it's own media player, and I just looked that app doesn't have a DR setting.
Was this a True HD track you were playing?
yah I'm not sure - it's whatever the 7.1 track that came with force awakens.

I captured the Falcon riding through the downed Star Destroyer with the TIE in close pursuit for both. The difference between the disc and the rip was quite striking. The disc felt "alive" while the rip just felt flat.

Knowing how I rip discs I am certain that I ripped the 7.1 track which should have been the same one the disc played with although I did not check that. It might make sense if the disc used the 5.1 track that the whole sequence would have been louder? Not sure.
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post #9090 of 13810 Old 12-28-2018, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bghead8che View Post
I am deciding between the Shield and Apple TV 4K.

I am confused about the audio output options and sending out uncompressed sound. My understanding is that the Shield can send out an uncompressed Atmos or DTS-X signal while the Apple TV converts the audio signal to PCM.

My question is what apps send out an uncompressed audio signal? I would assume Amazon, Hulu, Netflix and others send out a PCM version of Atmos and other audio formats.

Put another way, how do you take advantage of the Shield's ability to send out uncompressed audio bitrates? Lastly, what does it mean by "pass-through" in regards to audio?

I'd really appreciate some help with this!
This question gets asked a lot. Archer75 gave you good info and agree with what he said. Many of us have both devices to fill multiple needs. The is no perfect device at the moment. The primary reason to get a Shield is if you have or will be ripping your own discs and want to maintain the uncompressed audio WITH Atmos or DTS:X metadata. If not then the ATV 4K is probably the better choice as is can do Dolby Vision, supports Atmos from streaming services (which are all lossy based on DD+ as mentioned), has better image upscaling and color space handling, and subjectively a better UI. It can still handle uncompressed audio from rips via 2 apps (Infuse or MrMC) but you will lose Atmos or DTS:X metadata. I primarily use my ATV 4K but when watching a ripped disc in my Plex library with Atmos or DTS: X I switch to the Shield.
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