Official ROKU 4K (HDR) Premiere +/Ultra Owners Thread - Page 364 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #10891 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 04:21 PM
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After the latest update my roku ultra insists my hdmi input isn't capable of HDR. This worked perfectly before the last update. I've tried changing some settings around that really don't need changing and did a reboot. Should I do a factory reset?
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post #10892 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 04:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Rey L View Post
After the latest update my roku ultra insists my hdmi input isn't capable of HDR. This worked perfectly before the last update. I've tried changing some settings around that really don't need changing and did a reboot. Should I do a factory reset?
I just set up a new Ultra which updated as a part of the setup and it's telling me my display(Sony A9F) is not capable of [email protected], which is nonsense.

Last edited by Keenan; 11-28-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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post #10893 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rey L View Post
After the latest update my roku ultra insists my hdmi input isn't capable of HDR. This worked perfectly before the last update. I've tried changing some settings around that really don't need changing and did a reboot. Should I do a factory reset?
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Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
I just set up a new Ultra which updated as a part of the setup and it's telling me my display(Sony A9F) is not capable of [email protected], which is nonsense.
Have you tried unplugging the Roku? After an update, I've found a physical re sync rather than a software reboot is most effective.
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post #10894 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 11:29 PM
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Have you tried unplugging the Roku? After an update, I've found a physical re sync rather than a software reboot is most effective.
It seems to have finally accepted the fact that the display is, in fact, [email protected] capable. I've been watching Prime Video's "The Man in the High Castle" and it has lost sync a few times when starting a new episode. I have the Ultra set to match frame rate and I'm guessing that it drops to 60Hz before trying to re-sync at 24Hz when a new episode starts, sometimes it works but other times it hasn't.

While I haven't played with Netflix much yet it appears that it doesn't do 4K content? That doesn't seem right.
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post #10895 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Keenan View Post
It seems to have finally accepted the fact that the display is, in fact, [email protected] capable. I've been watching Prime Video's "The Man in the High Castle" and it has lost sync a few times when starting a new episode. I have the Ultra set to match frame rate and I'm guessing that it drops to 60Hz before trying to re-sync at 24Hz when a new episode starts, sometimes it works but other times it hasn't.

While I haven't played with Netflix much yet it appears that it doesn't do 4K content? That doesn't seem right.
Are you using an "enhanced" or whatever Sony calls an HDR capable HDMI connection and 18 Gbps premium certified high speed cables?
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post #10896 of 11497 Old 11-28-2018, 11:51 PM
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Are you using an "enhanced" or whatever Sony calls an HDR capable HDMI connection and 18 Gbps premium certified high speed cables?
Yes, certified cables and the HDMI port on the Sony display are set to Enhanced.
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post #10897 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by naustin View Post
Have you tried unplugging the Roku? After an update, I've found a physical re sync rather than a software reboot is most effective.
Yep sure did. It was perfect before the update. I should probably take a look at the roku forums and see if anyone else is complaining. Even when I force the roku into 4k HDR 60Hzm vudu and netflix don't show the content in HDR, just 4k alone.
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post #10898 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Johnson-from-Arizona View Post
Atmos only works for 4K movies. You’re entire playback chain has to support 4K/HDCP 2.2.

IF it does and you aren’t getting ATMOS, check the display settings on the ROKU. It’ll drop back and say HDCP 2.2 isn’t supported. Long time bug they don’t seem to know how to squash.

If you should have 2.2 support but its lost, just unplug HDMI cable, plug it back in, the ROKU will renegotiate HDMI hand shake and you should have HDCP 2.2 back, 4K back, and ATMOS....

If you are trying ATMOS without 4K, won’t work.
yes, my entire chain supports 4k 2.2. When i rent 4k + Atmos movies, i even get the ATMOS logo on the Vudu screen when i hit pause, just not on my denon. How do i check if Roku is registering as 2.2?
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post #10899 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 05:30 AM
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yes, my entire chain supports 4k 2.2. When i rent 4k + Atmos movies, i even get the ATMOS logo on the Vudu screen when i hit pause, just not on my denon. How do i check if Roku is registering as 2.2?
If the Roku isn't "registering" as 2.2, it's supposed to not allow 4K, so it's supposed to send 1080p if 2.2 isn't supported all the way to the display; if you're seeing Atmos in the VUDU info screen, it sounds like a misconfiguration in the AVR, or is there another device in the chain?

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post #10900 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 07:04 AM
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“How do I check”

Display settings via ROKU menu. Run the AUTO. If it can in fact do HDCP 2.2 but lost its mind it’ll tell you it can only do 1.4.

Quickest fix as noted it just unplug the HDMI cable, plug back in, run the AUTO again. Should pass HDCP 2.2. Again assuming it is SUPPOSED to.

Also IF you are having this issue with the ROKU where it won’t hold HDCP 2.2, IF, doesn’t matter if you bypass your receiver and go directly to the TV. This particular thing is a FW issue with ROKU not a device issue.

Last edited by Johnson-from-Arizona; 11-29-2018 at 07:07 AM.
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post #10901 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 07:13 AM
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If you're going to do the "unplug reset" (which I agree with) I recommend you also remove power from all devices for 60-90 seconds to all everything to discharge and reset as well.
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“How do I check”

Display settings via ROKU menu. Run the AUTO. If it can in fact do HDCP 2.2 but lost its mind it’ll tell you it can only do 1.4.

Quickest fix as noted it just unplug the HDMI cable, plug back in, run the AUTO again. Should pass HDCP 2.2. Again assuming it is SUPPOSED to.

Also IF you are having this issue with the ROKU where it won’t hold HDCP 2.2, IF, doesn’t matter if you bypass your receiver and go directly to the TV. This particular thing is a FW issue with ROKU not a device issue.
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post #10902 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 11:00 AM
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Its worked from me without powering anything off. The HDMI new hand shake being forced seems to fix it.
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post #10903 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 11:56 AM
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Its worked from me without powering anything off. The HDMI new hand shake being forced seems to fix it.
That's all I had to do and in fact, that's all that should be needed. Until the next time.
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post #10904 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 03:04 PM
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Agreed that the ROKU itself appears to work fine without removing power but there are devices out there that do not and if you have one of them in the chain it will confuse them all. Best practice is to remove power and HDMI, especially when there are unexpected things going on.

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That's all I had to do and in fact, that's all that should be needed. Until the next time.
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post #10905 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 03:45 PM
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Agreed that the ROKU itself appears to work fine without removing power but there are devices out there that do not and if you have one of them in the chain it will confuse them all. Best practice is to remove power and HDMI, especially when there are unexpected things going on.
Yes, when it comes to HDMI anything that will fix the problem is on the table. Theoretically though, powering a device off and on should not be needed. It's too bad the format and manufacturers can't provide the user with equipment that works as it should. All in the name of copyright...
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post #10906 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rakstr View Post
Agreed that the ROKU itself appears to work fine without removing power but there are devices out there that do not and if you have one of them in the chain it will confuse them all. Best practice is to remove power and HDMI, especially when there are unexpected things going on.
I find this to be true in my HDMI connections to TV. ATV4K tends to give a tint push in the screen colors and Directv has many momentary black screens that also mute the volume when removing and reconnecting HDMI cables. It doesn't have to be these devices' HDMI cables removed to directly affect these. Any TV HDMI port can effect the behavior of these devices as I recall.

Powering down to drain devices helps restore normal viewing. The TV requires remote power button long press until its power LED extinguishes. It's become a standard practice here.

I'll also add that my Roku Ultra still has momentary HDCP errors when using framerate auto switching feature. Roku support was quick once again to label yet another Roku replacement as defective. They're replacing it again. Do I care? I've repeatedly stated I think it's software related and they insist this is best. And I wouldn't mind getting those JBL wired headphones this go around. They've agreed to pay shipping both ways again as well.

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post #10907 of 11497 Old 11-29-2018, 07:21 PM
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Since we've been talking about various software, and updates here, I wanted to give a shout out to anyone who has a Sony Android TV in their setup to check with your respective model's thread. There is a new version of android TV being pushed out, and I applied the update tonight. Looks really nice.


Also about the comment @brotony made regarding Apple TV 4k going strange tins in coloring, I have had it happen twice. Usually what has fixed it for me is starting the screensaver and exciting, I've never Had one of the Roku players or Sony disc players do the color thing with the tint, and the Apple TV 4th generation doesn't do it either.
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post #10908 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 02:55 AM
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Yep sure did. It was perfect before the update. I should probably take a look at the roku forums and see if anyone else is complaining. Even when I force the roku into 4k HDR 60Hzm vudu and netflix don't show the content in HDR, just 4k alone.
Well I tried doing a factory reset and didn't change a thing. I don't know if to return this and get another ultra that's still on the older firmware.
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post #10909 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 06:13 AM
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My new model Roku Premiere (4K + HDR10) received the OS 9 update last night. Still waiting for the update on my 2016 model Ultra.
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post #10910 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 06:18 AM
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Still waiting for the update on my 2016 model Ultra.
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post #10911 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 08:46 AM
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new unit?

Is there anything new or better about the 2018 ultra as opposed to the 2016's?

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post #10912 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 08:50 AM
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Is there anything new or better about the 2018 ultra as opposed to the 2016's?
Compared to the 2016 Ultra, it's a step backwards. They removed the optical out and the Dolby Digital decoder. The also cut the channel storage memory in half. Compared to the 2017 version, the 2018 Ultra is identical. They are both model 4660, although the 2018 box says 4661. All that does is denote the package contains the better ear buds. The player is the same as last years, and when you look at the model number in the settings menu, it still says 4660.
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post #10913 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by brotony View Post

I'll also add that my Roku Ultra still has momentary HDCP errors when using framerate auto switching feature. Roku support was quick once again to label yet another Roku replacement as defective. They're replacing it again. Do I care? I've repeatedly stated I think it's software related and they insist this is best. And I wouldn't mind getting those JBL wired headphones this go around. They've agreed to pay shipping both ways again as well.

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This is what I was referring to over in the AFTV4K thread. Sometimes it recovers and starts playing the next episode but sometimes it doesn't and I usually have to bring up the main Roku menu before re-entering the streaming app(Prime Video).
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post #10914 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 11:59 AM
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Compared to the 2016 Ultra, it's a step backwards. They removed the optical out and the Dolby Digital decoder. The also cut the channel storage memory in half. Compared to the 2017 version, the 2018 Ultra is identical. They are both model 4660, although the 2018 box says 4661. All that does is denote the package contains the better ear buds. The player is the same as last years, and when you look at the model number in the settings menu, it still says 4660.
As people upgrade to the newer audio formats, it makes the optical port obsolete anyway. In my case having the Dolby encoder in the Roku caused issues for me with my 4k TV which also has the Dolby management that takes Dolby plus and converts it to standard AC3. Personally the units without the extra hardware have been more reliable for me when it comes to taking advantage of 4k / HDR. As far as the channel storage, I have an 8 GB microSD card in both my premiere+ and Ultra.
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post #10915 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 12:55 PM
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This is what I was referring to over in the AFTV4K thread. Sometimes it recovers and starts playing the next episode but sometimes it doesn't and I usually have to bring up the main Roku menu before re-entering the streaming app(Prime Video).
Hmm. Amazon Prime is stable for me on Roku, even with framerate auto switching.

Is your network connection to streamers WiFi or wired ethernet? I don't know your network connections but I'll just add my thoughts here since many seem to be cutting the cord and having issues with traditional internet networks.

I was at my aunt's house Thanksgiving and nearly talked her into a streamer though she wanted to use the streamer I'm her new LG OLED TV. She has Comcast for internet and measured WiFi speeds of 85 Mbps. Should be sufficient, given the short distance but she couldn't get Amazon Prime to stream; long load time and rebuffering to failure. Unwatchable. The TV setup her network with Comcast DNS (75.75.75.75)! That was not working and I don't think it will considering the source. I tried cloudflare (1.1.1.1). That worked but I saw the resolution constantly changing (adaptive streaming for slow connection). I changed it to 8.8.4 4 (Google DNS, also 8.8.8.8 is an option) and it was much improved, quickly reaching 4K and HDR resolutions and holding them without rebuffering or dropping resolution. She had her preferred apps and would prefer to forego another box so she's giving that a try before buying.

Note: I thought I had seen in the Netflix check network tab that it was already using Google DNS before I messed with the TV network settings but I'm not positive on that. Just a thought if Netflix seems to work better than Amazon Prime streaming.

I use cloudflare DNS IPv4 and IPv6 in my home router and point streamers to my router for DNS. But last night I tried Google DNS in my ATV4K and the resolution changes were quicker with Google compared to cloudflare DNS. Anyone notice there may be resolution transitions in CBS NFL bonus condensed replays or NFL GamePass? I saw improvement to the point I find I may subscribe to NFLGP instead of NFLST next year since I usually want to catch-up on condensed games without seeing the spoilers (score) before starting a condensed replay. Anyway, Google DNS seems quicker. This might be something for others to try.

I didn't have Ethernet throughout the home so I added a moCa 2.0 gigabit switch with Ethernet over coax adapters (also gigabit). Over the years, providers have bypassed my coax for multiple provider reasons so I had plenty to use with satellite TV (DirecTV) but moCa 2.0 can coexist on same coaxial cable network as cable TV or even just cable internet like I'm currently connected with redundant coaxial cable lines. (I have to have separate coaxial networks until I get rid of satellite TV.)

These adapters effectively use my in wall runs of coax as ethernet. Though many may say WiFi is fast enough, wired offers less interference and full duplex communication. WiFi is limited by distance, obstacles, interference and half duplex communication, effectively cutting connection in half or more. Mesh routers may eliminate some of those limitations but they are still limited by those and layer complexity and added WiFi devices may just show things down more.

Others may also recommend powerline adapters, I don't believe anything beats wired gigabit Ethernet reliability or speed; even cable distance or multiple gigabit switches or moCa 2.0 adapters won't slow gigabit Ethernet (I can't measure the difference these add in my network). I tried powerline and it didn't prove anymore reliable or faster than WiFi. Junk adapters didn't last a year; expensive waste of time and resources, IMO.

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post #10916 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 01:01 PM
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As people upgrade to the newer audio formats, it makes the optical port obsolete anyway. In my case having the Dolby encoder in the Roku caused issues for me with my 4k TV which also has the Dolby management that takes Dolby plus and converts it to standard AC3. Personally the units without the extra hardware have been more reliable for me when it comes to taking advantage of 4k / HDR. As far as the channel storage, I have an 8 GB microSD card in both my premiere+ and Ultra.
Yeah, never used the optical port myself. But he asked the differences, so I explained them. Since I only use a few channels regularly, the channel storage space has never been an issue for me. But for some people the lack of optical out (or even analog out) is critical to their planned use.

I've been fortunate in that all of my Rokus haven't had any issues. I never had a loud fan in my Roku 4, only had an occasional HDCP error issue with the Ultra, and my TVs and Stick have been rock solid. But I don't discount the problems others have had. Just try to offer any advice I can that might be helpful.

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post #10917 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 01:50 PM
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Yeah, never used the optical port myself. But he asked the differences, so I explained them. Since I only use a few channels regularly, the channel storage space has never been an issue for me. But for some people the lack of optical out (or even analog out) is critical to their planned use.

I've been fortunate in that all of my Rokus haven't had any issues. I never had a loud fan in my Roku 4, only had an occasional HDCP error issue with the Ultra, and my TVs and Stick have been rock solid. But I don't discount the problems others have had. Just try to offer any advice I can that might be helpful.
So do I, when it comes to offering help, and giving the best answer possible. As far as the differences go, I understand people may need optical in certain setups. It's just not a big loss if people simply use TV speakers, or want the Dolby Plus, and ATMOS format support.

I myself tried direct optical to the sound bar when I had the 2016 Ultra and found HDMI is much better. Because of my particular TV having the sam functionality as the 2016 Ultra when it comes to being able to convert Dolby Plus to standard AC3, I've found simply connecting the devices by HDMI to the TV then the TV's optical out to the sound bar provides a stable setup, for the standard audio formats. If I want high resolution audio, I use my Sony UHD player which has dual HDMI outs so it can connect directly to the TV and sound bar without worry of the two different HDMI specs. As far as stability. As of Roku OS 8.1.0 4145 / 4159, and now 9.0.0 My units have performed nicely. My 3600 black stick still works very reliably too, even though it's connected to a test monitor instead of a TV.

I did want to make a mention to @naustin , who asked me to give feedback after testing Roku with Google Assistant. Here is my feedback, I'm not happy with Roku's smart assistant support currently, and Apple TV is also more limited then I'd like as well with Siri. What I really liked was Google Assistant +android TV, or other google devices such as Chromecast. Very good support, though not perfect. I found out today I can tell Google to turn the TV on and off, what I want to watch and where. When other things such as Roku, and Apple TV mature to the level Google is, I'll be happy when it comes to smart home / assistant technology.
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post #10918 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by brotony View Post
Hmm. Amazon Prime is stable for me on Roku, even with framerate auto switching.

Is your network connection to streamers WiFi or wired ethernet? I don't know your network connections but I'll just add my thoughts here since many seem to be cutting the cord and having issues with traditional internet networks.
The Ultra is hardwired to a gigabit network and my download speed is about 175 Mbps so there is no issue with content signal strength, it's the HDCP-sync when switching from a 24Hz playback to 60Hz and then back to 24Hz again. This happens when one episode is finished and a new one is ready to start. It's as if the UI stumbles when exiting the 24Hz framerate when the episode is over, goes back to the(I assume) native UI framerate of 60Hz and then back to 24Hz again to play the next episode.
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post #10919 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 04:54 PM
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The LED Clock Screensaver seems to have broken. On all three of my Roku units, while the clock and date show, and all my settings are retained, the weather info is gone. Looks like whatever service the screensaver gets the info form is down.
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post #10920 of 11497 Old 11-30-2018, 05:17 PM
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The Ultra is hardwired to a gigabit network and my download speed is about 175 Mbps so there is no issue with content signal strength, it's the HDCP-sync when switching from a 24Hz playback to 60Hz and then back to 24Hz again. This happens when one episode is finished and a new one is ready to start. It's as if the UI stumbles when exiting the 24Hz framerate when the episode is over, goes back to the(I assume) native UI framerate of 60Hz and then back to 24Hz again to play the next episode.
Roku support says my HDCP errors on my Roku Ultra 4660 are suspect for defective replacement (replacements have been for same issue except the initial replacement). I've always seen them with auto framerate enabled but not with framerate fixed at 60 Hz.

I thought maybe your network was in question but no. Have you tried changing the DNS in network settings? 8.8.8.8 or 8.8.4.4 Google DNS may be better than ISP provider DNS for streaming devices.

What series is causing the sync issue you describe? My Roku is out for replacement but I could test when the replacement arrives. Roku says my replacement will be pre-tested to be free of HDCP errors. I've asked for it before but there must be TVs that Roku has trouble supporting. My TV must be one of them.


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