Official OWNERS thread for 2014 OLED LG 55ec9300 Part II - Page 137 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #4081 of 5053 Old 09-17-2015, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jdcerank View Post
FYI, I manually checked the update tab on my 9300 this morning & got the 05.00.04 webOS update. I live in MI;
Available in New York (Long Island), too.

Much faster start up for me.

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post #4082 of 5053 Old 09-17-2015, 10:33 PM
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Just got a 55EC9300 and new to LED TVs in general.

Are there any agreed upon TV calibration settings? I've skimmed this thread and the web slightly, and have seen references to fullybob's settings. But I notice he had purchased it early on and mentioned adjusting against a green bias.

So would his settings not be ideal for mine? Are all LED screens different and will vary based on the calibration?

I'm lost in how to calibrate this.
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post #4083 of 5053 Old 09-17-2015, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by jhnkango View Post
Just got a 55EC9300 and new to LED TVs in general.

Are there any agreed upon TV calibration settings? I've skimmed this thread and the web slightly, and have seen references to fullybob's settings. But I notice he had purchased it early on and mentioned adjusting against a green bias.

So would his settings not be ideal for mine? Are all LED screens different and will vary based on the calibration?

I'm lost in how to calibrate this.
The starting point is to download AHSHD709 disc here on AVS and follow the quidelines to set contrast and brightness (as well as other basics like Just Scan and Sharpness).
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post #4084 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 02:38 AM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Well, here's my updated calibration results:

As I've posted, my set suffers from a very noticeable flash lighting problem in the middle of the panel if Brightness is set too high. The problem with that is before calibration this was resulting in bars 17 and 18 crushing, meaning the lowest "above black" detail I was able to see was bar 19. I was mostly able to address this during calibration.

I found out that the Low 2pt adjustment and 5 IRE adjustment greatly influenced/interacted with the Brightness setting. More specifically, on my set, adding any amount of Green to either the Low 2pt or 5 IRE resulted in flash lighting. So essentially I found myself in a huge give and take battle: If I tried for flat grayscale @ 5 IRE/Low 2pt by using the Green adjustment, Brightness would essentially increase (despite me not actually increasing the Brightness setting) and the flash lighting returned. If I then tried to fix the flash lighting by turning down Brightness blacks of 17 and 18 would crush again. It took a lot of back and forth trial/error, but I was able to baby the 5 IRE setting so that I could get Brightness up enough for 18 to be visible and 17 to be JUST (and I mean JUST) visible if I am standing right in front of the screen while also avoiding any flash lighting. This was essentially accomplished by purposely raising Blue and Red higher than necessary @ 5 IRE which slightly increases Brightness without causing any flash lighting issues. As you can see from the results, I had to sacrifice having a flat grayscale @ 5 IRE (DeltaE of 0.8) but this is very negligible if not totally unnoticeable with any material.

Another point of interest is Contrast: the lower you go from Contrast of 97 (which is where 235 clips on my set, no WTW headroom) the more the IRE controls interact with one another after about 50 IRE. Translation: Let's say you wanted to have WTW headroom so you set Contrast to 90 (which clips white @ 243 on my set so you get plenty of WTW headroom)...well, then when you try to fine tune the 20pt you will notice that any adjustment you make at 50 IRE or above will interact with the immediate IRE after it. So if you add 5 Blue to 55 IRE, it will also add Blue to 60 IRE whether you want it to or not. Chad B has a very handy guide to overcome this behavior (it is tedious and pain staking but it will work) if you want accurate grayscale AND WTW head room. Me, I do not really care for WTW (above 235) so it's a non-issue. So the Contrast setting in my calibration results is for white clipping @ 235 (i.e. no WTW headroom).

Regarding the "season to taste" settings, like Super Resolution and all that other crud: I always avoid them as they are never (IMO) "reference" but "preference" in terms of how they impact the picture. Especially TruMotion. I for one have had no issues with motion handling either during FPS gaming or watching Football. I also have no issues watching 24p Blu-ray material, so TruMotion will continue to stay off. In fact, I cannot think of one iteration of TV or Projector I have ever owned where I used such a setting. Hate the SOE it exhibits.

Lastly, take these settings, ESPECIALLY the 2pt and 20pt adjustments, with a huge grain of salt. No two sets are ever the exact same. Add in the fact these settings are custom for the flash lighting problem I had to overcome and I highly doubt they will do much good without testing with appropriate equipment. Plus I am still learning the finer points of calibration.

***Of interest, before calibration I measured the color and gamma presets and confirmed Warm2 and Gamma 2.4 are the best out of box settings to use***
***Also, CMS was not calibrated at all due to known inherent issues with the CMS implementation in these sets***
Hello,


I really want to thanks you for these settings. My panel is also touched by uniformity trouble and by the grey area in the center when the screen is black.
With your settings, the uniformity is perfect and blacks are no cruched.
It's perfect. However, i find that colour are less punchy. Do you think that i can reduce the contrast?
Sorry for my poor English. I'm a French guy
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post #4085 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 03:59 AM
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Hey guys, hope I am not spamming; lamonsasa asked for an update on my settings, and I am not allowed to reply to PMs yet.

I actually started all over from the default settings in Expert1 and adjusted brightness using a pluge pattern in a pitch black room and then contrast, going back and forth several times.

I am now using

OLED 70
Contrast 98
Brightness 52 (on PS3)
Brightness 54 (on PS4) - was surprised they differed
Sharpness 10,10
Black level Low

You can get to the same black performance using black level high and brightness 37/38, but then contrast even set to 100 does not clip whiter-than-white.

Mind you, I am still using the old software (Germany). But apparently, nothing has changed settings-wise?
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post #4086 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhnkango View Post
Just got a 55EC9300 and new to LED TVs in general.

Are there any agreed upon TV calibration settings? I've skimmed this thread and the web slightly, and have seen references to fullybob's settings. But I notice he had purchased it early on and mentioned adjusting against a green bias.

So would his settings not be ideal for mine? Are all LED screens different and will vary based on the calibration?

I'm lost in how to calibrate this.
I'm a newbie here as well, but I found settings on the "rtings" site that look pretty good on my new set. I can't post links because I don't have the requisite number of posts, but if you google "rtings ec9300 settings" it should be close to the top.

I know that not all TVs (even the same models) are the same, but this is a good balance of effort for me. I'm happy to get feedback from more advanced users here though on these settings compared to where theirs calibrated.
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post #4087 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by julienctr View Post
Hello,


I really want to thanks you for these settings. My panel is also touched by uniformity trouble and by the grey area in the center when the screen is black.
With your settings, the uniformity is perfect and blacks are no cruched.
It's perfect. However, i find that colour are less punchy. Do you think that i can reduce the contrast?
Sorry for my poor English. I'm a French guy
You can dial Contrast back to your liking. No harm no foul.
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post #4088 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 01:13 PM
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Hello gang!


What's the latest status to the undefeatable noise reduction?

Reference: http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/lg-55...1410203929.htm

This review is old, is this feature has been adressed in latest firmware updates or still need to rename the HDMI input to PC to get rid of it??
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post #4089 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 02:26 PM
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Originally Posted by victo View Post
I'm a newbie here as well, but I found settings on the "rtings" site that look pretty good on my new set. I can't post links because I don't have the requisite number of posts, but if you google "rtings ec9300 settings" it should be close to the top.

I know that not all TVs (even the same models) are the same, but this is a good balance of effort for me. I'm happy to get feedback from more advanced users here though on these settings compared to where theirs calibrated.
Thank you for this information, very helpful. I'm expecting my ec9300 to be delivered on Tuesday. Did you apply all of the color management settings, and the 20 point white balance?
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post #4090 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 03:53 PM
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Thank you for this information, very helpful. I'm expecting my ec9300 to be delivered on Tuesday. Did you apply all of the color management settings, and the 20 point white balance?
Yes! I did it all. It was a pretty tedious, but the show I had on at the time was good
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post #4091 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
You can dial Contrast back to your liking. No harm no foul.
Noooo i am disappointed. I have always these grey area in the center. It´s a big trouble and i dońt understand how LG lets this.
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post #4092 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by julienctr View Post
Noooo i am disappointed. I have always these grey area in the center. It´s a big trouble and i dońt understand how LG lets this.
If it's a gray/lighter area in the middle of the screen on a dark image, it's called flash lighting and it happens on this TV if the Brightness is set to high. Or if you are using certain combination of settings (Black Level set to High with Brightness still above 40 for example.)

I am actually setting up a panel replacement through LG to see if I can get better results...the build date on my TV is May 2015 so hoping for a July 2015 or newer panel.
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post #4093 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 08:29 PM
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Anyone have good calibration settings for the latest firmware. I've tried a few that I've read in here and cnet but it just doesn't seem right.

Any help would be appreciated. Also is there a way to bring up Comcast guide using the voice function on the remote?

Just got the tv today and watched avatar 3D. Awesome!
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post #4094 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 08:55 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
If it's a gray/lighter area in the middle of the screen on a dark image, it's called flash lighting and it happens on this TV if the Brightness is set to high. Or if you are using certain combination of settings (Black Level set to High with Brightness still above 40 for example.)

I am actually setting up a panel replacement through LG to see if I can get better results...the build date on my TV is May 2015 so hoping for a July 2015 or newer panel.
On my screen, flash lighting appears as soon as brightness is above 54. But, if i put brightness below 54, black are crushed.
It´s impossible to have no black crushed and no flash lighting
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post #4095 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by julienctr View Post
On my screen, flash lighting appears as soon as brightness is above 54. But, if i put brightness below 54, black are crushed.
It´s impossible to have no black crushed and no flash lighting
Not impossible. Just hard. Doing an actual calibration with a meter fixes the problem. At least for mine it did.
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post #4096 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Losentscheid View Post
Hey guys, hope I am not spamming; lamonsasa asked for an update on my settings, and I am not allowed to reply to PMs yet.

I actually started all over from the default settings in Expert1 and adjusted brightness using a pluge pattern in a pitch black room and then contrast, going back and forth several times.

I am now using

OLED 70
Contrast 98
Brightness 52 (on PS3)
Brightness 54 (on PS4) - was surprised they differed
Sharpness 10,10
Black level Low

You can get to the same black performance using black level high and brightness 37/38, but then contrast even set to 100 does not clip whiter-than-white.

Mind you, I am still using the old software (Germany). But apparently, nothing has changed settings-wise?
Thanks for posting, are you using Warm 1 or Warm 2?
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post #4097 of 5053 Old 09-18-2015, 10:27 PM
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So currently I have my contrast set to 81, If I was to raise it to say.. 91, will I have an overall better picture quality? What benefit will I have by raising contrast to 91?
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post #4098 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 02:21 AM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Not impossible. Just hard. Doing an actual calibration with a meter fixes the problem. At least for mine it did.
Certainly but to do that, i need to call calibration pro....
Yesterday, i modified my settings. I put 2.2 for gamma and brightness to 56. It should be great. I didn't see flash lightning yet and blacks are not crushed.
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post #4099 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by fullybob View Post
Sure.

This is what I ended up with, calibrated by eye and am happy with;

Picture Mode: ISF Expert 1

OLED Light - 31
Contrast - 90
Brightness - 56
H Sharpness - 7
V Sharpness - 7
Colour - 50
Tint - 0

Dynamic Contrast - Off
Super Resolution - Off
Colour Gamut - Wide
Edge Enhance - Off
Colour Filter - Off
Gamma - 2.2

White Balance. My display had what looked like a green bias, which on skin tones especially was not satisfactory. I found Warm 1 easier to dial in than Warm 2. Firstly I adjusted 2 point then refined with 20 point settings.

Colour Temp - Warm 1
Method - 2 Point
Pattern - Outer
Point - High
Red - -3
Green - -20
Blue - -11

Point - Low
Red - -20
Green - -19
Blue - -2

For 20 point I only adjusted IRE 80, 30, 5

IRE - 80
Red - 0
Green - -2
Blue - -2

IRE - 30
Red - 0
Green - -7
Blue - -5

IRE - 5
Red - 0
Green - 0
Blue - -8

TruMotion - OFF
Black - LOW
What are the color management settings for this calibration?
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post #4100 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikelord7 View Post
What are the color management settings for this calibration?
I would highly advise against using any type of CMS adjustments.
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post #4101 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post
So currently I have my contrast set to 81, If I was to raise it to say.. 91, will I have an overall better picture quality? What benefit will I have by raising contrast to 91?
Simple terms: Anything below about 97 Contrast on this TV lowers the overall brightness of 100% white which in turn allows for above 100% white to be displayed (very little content that I know of has above 100% white so it's a preference whether you want the headroom or not). At around 97/98 Contrast 100% white is the highest visible white allowed and is as bright as possible without being clipped (crushed).

The trade off: the brighter 100% white, the more "punch" the picture has as it allows for a greater range from the blackest black to the whitest white but there is a possibility of losing content that contains above 100% white in it. I have always had an easy time relating Contrast and Brightness by simplifying it: Brightness allows for the darkest level of black without crush when set right and Contrast allows for the brightest level of white without crush when set right. When both settings are used correctly you get the full range of black to white which determines how much punch/pop the picture has ranging from the darkest black to the brightest white.

That's why most TV's in stores are set to "Vivid" (or Torch) mode: it usually dials Contrast to 100, Brightness in the 80's and the LED/OLED Light up in the 80's as well, producing a very vivid/punchy picture to catch peoples attention.

Last edited by BigCoolJesus; 09-19-2015 at 09:03 AM.
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Simple terms: Anything below about 97 Contrast on this TV lowers the overall brightness of 100% white which in turn allows for above 100% white to be displayed (very little content that I know of has above 100% white so it's a preference whether you want the headroom or not). At around 97/98 Contrast 100% white is the highest visible white allowed and is as bright as possible without being clipped (crushed).

The trade off: the brighter 100% white, the more "punch" the picture has as it allows for a greater range from the blackest black to the whitest white but there is a possibility of losing content that contains above 100% white in it. I have always had an easy time relating Contrast and Brightness by simplifying it: Brightness allows for the darkest level of black without crush when set right and Contrast allows for the brightest level of white without crush when set right. When both settings are used correctly you get the full range of black to white which determines how much punch/pop the picture has ranging from the darkest black to the brightest white.

That's why most TV's in stores are set to "Vivid" (or Torch) mode: it usually dials Contrast to 100, Brightness in the 80's and the LED/OLED Light up in the 80's as well, producing a very vivid/punchy picture to catch peoples attention.
So should I change my contrast from 81 to 91? My picture is quite punchy with contrast set to 81, why does everyone recommend to leave the contrast at 80 on the ec9300?

Should I bump the contrast?
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post #4103 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 11:10 AM
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Anyone who's updated having any issues with the tv suddently saying "Restarting this app to free memory up" on the top right?

Never had this before the update...
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post #4104 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post
So should I change my contrast from 81 to 91? My picture is quite punchy with contrast set to 81, why does everyone recommend to leave the contrast at 80 on the ec9300?

Should I bump the contrast?
It's personal preference really. Best advice I can give is put up an appropriate Contrast Test Pattern and set so that either 100% White (235) is just barely visible (which will equate to a higher contrast setting of about 97/98 on these TV's) or set so above 100% White (236+) is visible in case the rare content you watch has above white in it (which will equate to a lower contrast setting of 96 or lower with no real bottom end meaning you can definitely use your current setting of 81).

I.E. - as long as you stay at or under 98 Contrast, you can't go wrong really so "season to taste" as they say.

Another thing to keep in mind is as you turn Contrast up you will probably want to turn OLED down. With Contrast of 97 on my set, my OLED is only at 45 and this gives me 50+fL (overall brightness of the picture). When I was experimenting with a Contrast of 90 my OLED had to be at 50 to give me the same 50+fL.

Last edited by BigCoolJesus; 09-19-2015 at 11:19 AM.
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post #4105 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 11:26 AM
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Anyone have ARC working?

Mine hasn't since two updates ago...
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Anyone have ARC working? Mine hasn't since two updates ago...
ARC's been working fine for me both with the old WebOS 1.3 firmware and the recent WebOS "2.0" update.
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post #4107 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 12:17 PM
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I've had the update for a few days now. Haven't noticed much different other than a new look to the UI. Input switching is also much faster now, which is nice.

Going to recalibrate with my Disney WOW bluray later today. Don't anticipate much change, but will post back if so.
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post #4108 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 12:29 PM
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Do you generally have to recalibrate a set after a firmware update? I recently went through an ISF calibration.
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post #4109 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 01:17 PM
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Do you generally have to recalibrate a set after a firmware update? I recently went through an ISF calibration.
Some times depending on what changed during the firmware update the calibrations can shift slightly. Typically it's not a drastic change and if you don't see anything amiss, don't worry about it
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post #4110 of 5053 Old 09-19-2015, 02:32 PM
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I've had the update for a few days now. Haven't noticed much different other than a new look to the UI. Input switching is also much faster now, which is nice.

Going to recalibrate with my Disney WOW bluray later today. Don't anticipate much change, but will post back if so.
please report back with your new calibration/updated settings once you check with the WOW Disc, i dont think we ever got your calibrated settings here so please do post.
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