Originally Posted by curtw
Were those part numbers you posted for the 55 or 65? And do you know what the equivalents are for the other size? I can't decide if I'd be willing to try this on my own, or find a shop, but I want to at least gather up the necessary components.
Disclaimer: NONE OF THIS IS GUARANTEED--MODIFY AT YOUR OWN RISK
I listed 65" part numbers:
T-Con board (board number 6870C-0578B, module 6871L-4203C (board and shield))
Mainboard (p/n EBT64099105)
T-Con board (board number 6870C-0585A, module 6871L-4255A (board and shield))
Mainboard (p/n EBT64080803)
The T-CON boards listed are also used for some UA models as well (The 65eg9600-UA.AUSZLJR model has the UB T-CON, the -UA.AUSYLJR and -UA.BUSYLJR models do not). So if you have a -UA.AUSZLJR model (found on your TV's s/n sticker), then you should only need a mainboard. I have no clue what 55" UA models include a UB compatible T-CON, but the visual difference (once you open the bag of the TV) is the cabling.
The UA T-CON (or at least for models not compatible with UB mainboards) has cable connectors on the wrong sides. So cabling from the power supply on the left stretches across the board to connect on the T-Con's right. Cabling from the mainboard on the right stretches across to connect on the T-Con's left. The UB compatible T-CON boads have power supply connectors on the left and mainboard connectors on the right. So they'll also have shorter cabling. If you're moving from a UA T-CON you'll need to bundle the excess cabling or buy new cables. I'm not sure what the p/n is for the 55" black LVDS ribbon cable.
I'm not sure if you've taken the back off your TV or not, but for the 65" at least, you can't access the boards until you've taken off the stand, which means you'll need to either lay it down or flip it upside down. And since it's curved and fragile, you don't want to lay it down without support or else the screen could crack. I would lay it down on a couch cushion, supported in the middle of the screen, with the sides hanging over the edge. But the mod itself is pretty plug and play--there's no soldering involved, just unscrewing boards unhooking cables and plugging them back in where they fit
. Be mindful of static discharge though--don't want to ruin any boards.
Service remote (remocon): Look on Amazon for an MKJ39170828 replacement. There's a knockoff for $12.99 prime. You'll need this or something like it. After the board swap, when you turn it back on there's a good chance you'll just get a slowly blinking LG standby logo on the TV with no picture. On the service remote, hit "P-only" and it will enter power only mode. Then hit "Exit" then "power" and it will turn off and reboot. The menus will look different because webos isn't fully initialized. If you hit Menu on the service remote or home on your magic remote, then it should initialize webos. I recommend going through the webos settings to return to default settings--this will reconfigure everything so that your tv boots back into WebOS like normal. After that, update your TV firmware through webos. You'll probably need to re-pair your magic remote as well after this--hold down the back button and the home button pointed at your TV for 10 seconds or so.