Official Owners Thread 2015 LG 55EG9600 / 65EG9600 4k - Page 96 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2851 of 5758 Old 09-07-2015, 07:32 PM
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That is actually common with the screen reaching a tipping point around 54 brightness. Had the same issue with the ec9300. You get to a point that even on a black screen it suddenly lights up across the center
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post #2852 of 5758 Old 09-07-2015, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Wjboshart View Post
That is actually common with the screen reaching a tipping point around 54 brightness. Had the same issue with the ec9300. You get to a point that even on a black screen it suddenly lights up across the center
Ya, hopefully people aren't setting that too high. Destroys the picture.
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post #2853 of 5758 Old 09-08-2015, 05:11 AM
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I really want to see some August builds.
Same here. Wonder when they will hit these shores
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post #2854 of 5758 Old 09-08-2015, 08:00 AM - Thread Starter
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According to LG, production levels are increasing by 5X. This should help improve consistency and uniformity all by itself...
With the last sale they had, inventory is light to say the least........
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post #2855 of 5758 Old 09-08-2015, 11:35 AM
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I've hardly had any run-in time on the repaired panel, not much to report. I've been out of town for over a week so there's maybe 20 hours on the panel, not sure how much it was used by my roommate.

I only got one viewing of Interstellar in before I left and nothing since I got back yesterday evening.

So far it's looked fantastic.
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post #2856 of 5758 Old 09-08-2015, 05:38 PM
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Ya, hopefully people aren't setting that too high. Destroys the picture.
Hey Vega, something I noticed... I am running this display off two Titan X's. In NVCP, I have the TV set as RGB and not YCbCr444 or anything else, with 8-bit and full output. The YCbCr444 settings will alter your image/calibration settings, and a time or two NVCP has changed this setting without notice.

I leave my TV at 50 brightness, 100 OLED Light, and 100 contrast (I like a punchy image). I may drop down to 80 OLED light when I get my new panel because 100 probably isn't good for longevity sake... haven't seen much talk on this? With a brightness of 50, I get perfect blacks when it's supposed to be black (per Lagom's black test page). I really love night-time games on this set too, like Left 4 Dead, Evolve, Insurgency, or BF4's new night map. Sometimes I think at this size, viewing distance, and quality, this display (used on a PC) could pass as a portal to another world because the image looks so good.

Also, I took get annoyed and noticed the ABL aggressiveness. That is the only PQ drawback compared to the Samsung JS series - they are brighter on bright content than the OLED, so desktop use is typically better on the Samsung TV. But hey, who cares what the desktop really looks like... there are ways around it, or just ignore it altogether. I didn't buy a $4,000 display to make the desktop look good.
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post #2857 of 5758 Old 09-08-2015, 07:35 PM
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Ya, do you know what the difference is between the 4:4:4 selection and RGB in NVIDIA control panel? The image looks identical between the two. RGB allows me to select "Full" dynamic range though. Not sure if that is implied (which it probably is) with 4:4:4 selected.

50 brightness on my set produces a perfect black. It's only when I get to 53 it changes just barely, and then 55 a large jump. I also use 100 contrast for the wow factor, but only use typically 30-60 "OLED light". I wouldn't care much for the Samsung LCD as the OLED is already plenty bright enough for me!

As for the image quality and games, it's ridiculous. The quality is so good and the screen large enough in my flight sim's it's like I'm sitting in a full size cockpit. Really it's two main detractors are the sample-and-hold 60 Hz eye tracking motion blur and the barely acceptable input lag. I can't wait for the day of native 120 Hz strobing 4K OLED. Going to be insane.

Just for reference purposes if anyone ever does a search, the EG9600 series frame skips when set above 60 Hz. What a shame!
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post #2858 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 12:36 PM
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Brightness 50-52 on my panel makes absolutely zero difference, but 53 is huge jump that results in a washout. If your running over 30 OLED light level on PC prepare to get pretty bad IR and potentially permanent burn-in. I run 28, but the lowest you can tolerate is going to be best.

Yes, desktop usage on these has some annoying perks and you can't fix them. ABL affects all OLED, so you can't win everything currently. Gaming is amazing though, and that's what matters.

The difference between 4:4:4, RGB low/high should be basically nothing if you have the TV set correctly, using anything but the following 3 options will produce an inaccurate picture.
1) 4:4:4 set in NV control panel, TV black level set to Auto.
2) RGB limited set in NV control panel, TV black level set to Low.
3) RGB full set in NV control panel, TV black level set to High.

The main problem is most people keep their TV on auto/low, then set NV control panel to "RGB Full". This will usually make the image "pop" because whites will be very white, and blacks will be very black. However, it causes massive black crush and window's are not suppose to be that white. They are suppose to be off white!

The NVIDIA control panel resets to RGB limited each time you upgrade drivers, so keep that in mind. If you want to be technical, the 3rd option is the right option for PC usage.

Last edited by Tyrindor; 09-09-2015 at 01:21 PM.
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post #2859 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 01:55 PM
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Those of you who are awaiting a refund from LG, has anyone received their check yet?
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post #2860 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Brightness 50-52 on my panel makes absolutely zero difference, but 53 is huge jump that results in a washout. If your running over 30 OLED light level on PC prepare to get pretty bad IR and potentially permanent burn-in. I run 28, but the lowest you can tolerate is going to be best.

Yes, desktop usage on these has some annoying perks and you can't fix them. ABL affects all OLED, so you can't win everything currently. Gaming is amazing though, and that's what matters.

The difference between 4:4:4, RGB low/high should be basically nothing if you have the TV set correctly, using anything but the following 3 options will produce an inaccurate picture.
1) 4:4:4 set in NV control panel, TV black level set to Auto.
2) RGB limited set in NV control panel, TV black level set to Low.
3) RGB full set in NV control panel, TV black level set to High.

The main problem is most people keep their TV on auto/low, then set NV control panel to "RGB Full". This will usually make the image "pop" because whites will be very white, and blacks will be very black. However, it causes massive black crush and window's are not suppose to be that white. They are suppose to be off white!

The NVIDIA control panel resets to RGB limited each time you upgrade drivers, so keep that in mind. If you want to be technical, the 3rd option is the right option for PC usage.
Interesting. I have mine set as 4:4:4 and black level "auto".

Could you qualify the image retention comments? Have you experienced this yourself or done research? I run 20 OLED light at night on desktop, 50 OLED light during day at desktop. Night gaming is around OLED light 40 (I use bias lighting) and day gaming around 70.

I do take precautions though on the desktop. I have a 1 minute screen saver that activates fairly regularly, black theme chrome web browser, black desktop background with icons hidden, deluminate extension, auto hide task bar etc. So far zero issues.
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post #2861 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Brightness 50-52 on my panel makes absolutely zero difference, but 53 is huge jump that results in a washout. If your running over 30 OLED light level on PC prepare to get pretty bad IR and potentially permanent burn-in. I run 28, but the lowest you can tolerate is going to be best.
I have been running 100 OLED light on 4 different TV's (one 1080p OLED, and 3 of these 4K OLEDs - tried the 1080p before jumping to the 4K, and had to exchange a few 4K models) with practically no IR. Whatever IR occurred disappeared very quickly.
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post #2862 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Callsign_Vega View Post
Interesting. I have mine set as 4:4:4 and black level "auto".

Could you qualify the image retention comments? Have you experienced this yourself or done research? I run 20 OLED light at night on desktop, 50 OLED light during day at desktop. Night gaming is around OLED light 40 (I use bias lighting) and day gaming around 70.

I do take precautions though on the desktop. I have a 1 minute screen saver that activates fairly regularly, black theme chrome web browser, black desktop background with icons hidden, deluminate extension, auto hide task bar etc. So far zero issues.
Make a 3840x2160 dark gray image and full screen it after playing a game with static UI for an hour or so. You'll see it. I have my wallpaper set to rotate every 30 minutes, and I can slightly make it out on solid grays sometimes. However, solid grays are the first thing to show IR on this set, but you'll likely never see it in real content unless you really pushed it.

I've done multiple ~12 hour sessions in Diablo 3 with 25 OLED light, by the end I can clearly make out the UI on solid grays but never in real content. 3-4 hours of watching content afterwards, the IR is still there just as noticeable as ever. However, turning the TV off for the night and coming back almost completely fixes even the worse cases of IR for me. To the point i'm not concerned with IR that much. So i'd make sure you turn it off every night, so it can do it's pixel maintenance cycle.

I don't hide the taskbar or hide desktop icons, because it's annoying. I'm hoping i'll never have to. If your desktop images are hidden, how do you get to your stuff? Do you just not put anything on the desktop?

I've also thought about using a solid black wallpaper as it dramatically helps reduce ABL.

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Originally Posted by Nitemare3219 View Post
I have been running 100 OLED light on 4 different TV's (one 1080p OLED, and 3 of these 4K OLEDs - tried the 1080p before jumping to the 4K, and had to exchange a few 4K models) with practically no IR. Whatever IR occurred disappeared very quickly.
Because you aren't testing for it probably. When you can see it in real content, it's usually too late.

Both my 55" LG OLED and this one get noticeable IR on gray screens, quite quickly, the amount of time until it goes away varies but the TV usually clears itself completely between sessions (while sleeping).

Also, it is much harder to SEE burn-in at 100 OLED but it is also much easier to GET burn-in. It's dangerous. Most of the time burn-in and IR becomes easier to see at lower brightness levels, so you might run 100 OLED light and think there is nothing. I had a friend almost ruin his Samsung OLED because of this, it took him 2-3 solid weeks of running patterns to get rid of the IR which was really bad at lower OLED light levels, but completely invisible at max.

All I can say is be careful. I'm scared to go above 30 on mine after seeing what he had to go through.

Last edited by Tyrindor; 09-09-2015 at 04:58 PM.
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post #2863 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Make a 3840x2160 dark gray image and full screen it after playing a game with static UI for an hour or so. You'll see it. I have my wallpaper set to rotate every 30 minutes, and I can slightly make it out on solid grays sometimes. However, solid grays are the first thing to show IR on this set, but you'll likely never see it in real content unless you really pushed it.

I've done multiple ~12 hour sessions in Diablo 3 with 25 OLED light, by the end I can clearly make out the UI on solid grays but never in real content. 3-4 hours of watching content afterwards, the IR is still there just as noticeable as ever. However, turning the TV off for the night and coming back almost completely fixes even the worse cases of IR for me. To the point i'm not concerned with IR that much. So i'd make sure you turn it off every night, so it can do it's pixel maintenance cycle.

I don't hide the taskbar or hide desktop icons, because it's freaking annoying. I'm hoping i'll never have to. If your desktop images are hidden, how do you get to your stuff? Do you just not put anything on the desktop?

I've also thought about using a solid black wallpaper as it helps with ABL.



Because you aren't testing for it right. When you can see it in real content, it's usually too late.

Both my 55" LG OLED and this one get noticeable IR on gray screens, quite quickly, the amount of time until it goes away varies but the TV usually clears itself completely between sessions (while sleeping).

Also, it is much harder to SEE burn-in at 100 OLED but it is also much easier to GET burn-in. It's dangerous. Most of the time burn-in and IR becomes easier to see at lower brightness levels, so you might run 100 OLED light and think there is nothing. I had a friend almost ruin his Samsung OLED because of this, it took him 2-3 solid weeks of running patterns to get rid of the IR which was really bad at lower OLED light levels, but completely invisible at max.
I have all the stuff I need accessed via shortcuts on the task-bar that pops up. 12 hour Diable 3 sessions? wow, I don't do anything that long! My gaming sessions are maybe ~3 hours max before a significant break in which the TV always gets turned off. As for ABL, the solid background does help a lot. I keep a web page up in the center 50% or so of the screen. Each side then has 25% solid black and ABL isn't really noticeable.

Has anyone on this forum actually experienced or seen a no-crap permanent visible burn in that never went away on an OLED? My search doesn't turn up much.
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post #2864 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 05:01 PM
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As for ABL, the solid background does help a lot. I keep a web page up in the center 50% or so of the screen. Each side then has 25% solid black and ABL isn't really noticeable.

Has anyone on this forum actually experienced or seen a no-crap permanent visible burn in that never went away on an OLED? My search doesn't turn up much.
Same. The good thing about 4K is there is absolutely no reason to full screen a window. Ever. Good thing too, cause full screening a window on this thing makes it look TERRIBLE.

And yes, it has happened. Most of the time it's due to someone cranking it up right out of the box, before it gets to it's optimal ~300 hours. There's also floor models that have had a logo on them near 24/7, while in vivid/store mode, that have gotten visible permanent burn-in. Not many people yet using these as monitors, but I'm sure we'll see some nightmare cases as OLED gets cheaper.

BTW, I am Murlocke over on OCN. We've talked a few times over there. You prefer this over your massive 3x 4K monitors setups? I tried going back to IPS after using this for a week, it's just not possible.

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I have all the stuff I need accessed via shortcuts on the task-bar that pops up.
This may seem stupid but... How do you empty the recycle bin?

Last edited by Tyrindor; 09-09-2015 at 05:13 PM.
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post #2865 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 05:05 PM
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Those of you who are awaiting a refund from LG, has anyone received their check yet?
My pick up is arrange for Friday and I've been told the refund will be processed shortly after that.
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post #2866 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 06:00 PM
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Just got the call from lg, they are processing my pick up too, should find out more info soon
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post #2867 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 06:59 PM
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Same. The good thing about 4K is there is absolutely no reason to full screen a window. Ever. Good thing too, cause full screening a window on this thing makes it look TERRIBLE.

And yes, it has happened. Most of the time it's due to someone cranking it up right out of the box, before it gets to it's optimal ~300 hours. There's also floor models that have had a logo on them near 24/7, while in vivid/store mode, that have gotten visible permanent burn-in. Not many people yet using these as monitors, but I'm sure we'll see some nightmare cases as OLED gets cheaper.

BTW, I am Murlocke over on OCN. We've talked a few times over there. You prefer this over your massive 3x 4K monitors setups? I tried going back to IPS after using this for a week, it's just not possible.



This may seem stupid but... How do you empty the recycle bin?
Ah ya, name is familiar. I have a 27" Predator and 5K IPS next to my OLED, it is hard to go back to them lol. I just wish the motion clarity was a bit better and input lag a bit less on the OLED...

As for recycling bin, I don't use it. I have "immediately delete" selected.

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Just got the call from lg, they are processing my pick up too, should find out more info soon
Could you guys fill me in on this LG refund? If I go past my 15 day BesyBuy return window and the black edges rears it's head, I just call LG and they pay me what I paid for the TV? Are there any limits on the program?
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post #2868 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 10:51 PM
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I can't for the life of me to get Amazon HDR to work. None of the videos are labelled, it won't even play 4K. I'm on 105Mbps down internet, it instantly goes to 1080p and stays there. Using a wired connection to the TV.

Any ideas?

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Could you guys fill me in on this LG refund? If I go past my 15 day BesyBuy return window and the black edges rears it's head, I just call LG and they pay me what I paid for the TV? Are there any limits on the program?
Not anymore. You have to do at least 1 repair before they offer a refund. As far as I know, no time frame.
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post #2869 of 5758 Old 09-09-2015, 11:56 PM
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Vega,
If you don't currently have the black edges, it's not going to magically show up. For those that had the problem, it is noticeable from the start. If you pop up a 5 or 10% ire grayscale slide it'll be evident with at least a 3" black edge on either side of the screen
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post #2870 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 06:28 AM
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I can't for the life of me to get Amazon HDR to work. None of the videos are labelled, it won't even play 4K. I'm on 105Mbps down internet, it instantly goes to 1080p and stays there. Using a wired connection to the TV.
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it- the HDR quality on Amazon is horrible. Once it's ON you can't turn it OFF. Watching Narcos on Netflix is 10 times better picture quality than the HDR on Amazon (any of the HDR shows).
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Honestly I wouldn't worry about it- the HDR quality on Amazon is horrible. Once it's ON you can't turn it OFF. Watching Narcos on Netflix is 10 times better picture quality than the HDR on Amazon (any of the HDR shows).
Wonder why they released it so quickly, Netflix on the other hand is waiting for the standards to be finalized, hopefully Netflix has a better product. BTW enjoying Narcos, good show.

Quote:
"We're working with the UHD Alliance to set and finalise the standards for HDR delivery," said Hunt. "That work's not finished yet, we expect to see that deliver some results at the end of this year, the beginning of next year."
http://www.techradar.com/us/news/tel...on-has-1303531
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Honestly I wouldn't worry about it- the HDR quality on Amazon is horrible. Once it's ON you can't turn it OFF. Watching Narcos on Netflix is 10 times better picture quality than the HDR on Amazon (any of the HDR shows).
What tv do u have?

Btw have u seen transparent in HDR? By far the the best one, the colors are off the charts good. Much better than the others. The show itself is meh.
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Wonder why they released it so quickly, Netflix on the other hand is waiting for the standards to be finalized, hopefully Netflix has a better product. BTW enjoying Narcos, good show.



http://www.techradar.com/us/news/tel...on-has-1303531
Amazon most likely rushed out their HDR in a hurry to have some sort of enticing reason for consumers to sign up for their service. Same reason they're shelling out a ridiculous half billion dollars to make some new top gear episodes.
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Anyone know how many fL the 65" EG9600 can output?


Sent from my iPhone

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post #2875 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 10:41 AM
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Anyone know how many fL the 65" EG9600 can output?


Sent from my iPhone
Same question here. Have my brand new build (Aug or Sep) due on the 21st.
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post #2876 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 10:46 AM
 
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Anyone know how many fL the 65" EG9600 can output?


Sent from my iPhone
hdtv test rated it at 417 cd/m2, or 121 fL
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Official Owners Thread 2015 LG 55EG9600 / 65EG9600 4k

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Originally Posted by alexanderg823 View Post
hdtv test rated it at 417 cd/m2, or 121 fL

Thanks a lot!

That sounds good, I'd like the EG to be as bright as my Samsung F8000 LCD, as I have a very bright living room, which the Samsung handles just fine currently. Edit: A quick google tells me the F8000 is 127 fL, about the same.


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post #2878 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Make a 3840x2160 dark gray image and full screen it after playing a game with static UI for an hour or so. You'll see it. I have my wallpaper set to rotate every 30 minutes, and I can slightly make it out on solid grays sometimes. However, solid grays are the first thing to show IR on this set, but you'll likely never see it in real content unless you really pushed it.

I've done multiple ~12 hour sessions in Diablo 3 with 25 OLED light, by the end I can clearly make out the UI on solid grays but never in real content. 3-4 hours of watching content afterwards, the IR is still there just as noticeable as ever. However, turning the TV off for the night and coming back almost completely fixes even the worse cases of IR for me. To the point i'm not concerned with IR that much. So i'd make sure you turn it off every night, so it can do it's pixel maintenance cycle.

I don't hide the taskbar or hide desktop icons, because it's annoying. I'm hoping i'll never have to. If your desktop images are hidden, how do you get to your stuff? Do you just not put anything on the desktop?

I've also thought about using a solid black wallpaper as it dramatically helps reduce ABL.



Because you aren't testing for it probably. When you can see it in real content, it's usually too late.

Both my 55" LG OLED and this one get noticeable IR on gray screens, quite quickly, the amount of time until it goes away varies but the TV usually clears itself completely between sessions (while sleeping).

Also, it is much harder to SEE burn-in at 100 OLED but it is also much easier to GET burn-in. It's dangerous. Most of the time burn-in and IR becomes easier to see at lower brightness levels, so you might run 100 OLED light and think there is nothing. I had a friend almost ruin his Samsung OLED because of this, it took him 2-3 solid weeks of running patterns to get rid of the IR which was really bad at lower OLED light levels, but completely invisible at max.

All I can say is be careful. I'm scared to go above 30 on mine after seeing what he had to go through.
I think you're overhyping the problem. This was a concern back when OLED tech was pretty primitive, but I don't think it's an issue to be concerned about unless you're stupidly abusing the display.

I have my wallpaper change every 15 minutes, and I run my browser across the middle of the screen, leaving about 25% of screen space on each side. I put all my desktop icons behind the browser window, because that's all I ever have open on the desktop.

You're right, I don't really test for IR, but I just decided to. I installed new graphics drivers last night and my icons were all back in the default spot to the left side of the screen, so they have been sitting there for about an hour. I tested on a gray screen, and very few show any noticeable IR - mostly white icons. It has already dissipated for the most part after only 10 minutes. I'll check again later, but I don't think we should be too concerned yet, otherwise channel logos would be a huge problem. If there is any concern, the best bet would be to set one of the picture modes to a low OLED light level for desktop use, and have another with high OLED light level for gaming/movies, etc.

Running OLED light at 25 or lower is absurd. I wouldn't even be able to enjoy the display at that level.

On another note... does anyone know if the default H and V Sharpness values of 10 are detrimental to PC displays? Typically you want zero sharpening on a 4:4:4 image, but I don't know if deviating from the default, even in PC mode, will cause the image to blur or something. It doesn't appear to have any effect either way/
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post #2879 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 07:43 PM
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I set my sharpness to "25". (PC/game mode). To me it looks like the best compromise between blurry text and "highlighted" text for a lack of a better term. Whatever that is you call it when you over-sharpen.

I'm all ears as to recommendations though.

So, all motion processing is disabled from what I can tell in "PC" mode. All of the picture modes "feel" the same speed. Are there really any differences between all the picture modes? I know the "ISF 1/2" are "warmer", not really sure what their purpose is. I use those warm modes to cut down on blue light for web surfing which is bad for eye fatigue.
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post #2880 of 5758 Old 09-10-2015, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by sundiego View Post
Honestly I wouldn't worry about it- the HDR quality on Amazon is horrible. Once it's ON you can't turn it OFF. Watching Narcos on Netflix is 10 times better picture quality than the HDR on Amazon (any of the HDR shows).

Evidently you are experiencing some kind of issue. HDR on Amazon is fantastic!
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