Official 2015-2016 LG 55EG9100 OLED "full" 1080p HDTV. - Page 121 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3601 of 3621 Old 03-17-2018, 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by dkfan9 View Post
Do you mean over hdmi? Optical passes fine from coax on mine but not external inputs.
Thanks for responding. I edited my post to reflect I am interested in passing from external devices. I'm not sure what you mean by coax since This TV has no coax digital audio out.
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post #3602 of 3621 Old 03-18-2018, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by leiff View Post
Thanks for responding. I edited my post to reflect I am interested in passing from external devices. I'm not sure what you mean by coax since This TV has no coax digital audio out.
Ah, I meant coax as in antenna input, not audio output. I'm not familiar with the service menu tweak. I'd be interested in info on it. I don't need it now but may in the future.
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post #3603 of 3621 Old 04-02-2018, 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by leiff View Post
So service menu tweak is available/necessary to pass Surround sound out of optical out on this tv?
If tweak is necessary, is it easy to do?

(EDIT)
Forgot to mention I'm interesting in passing through from other HDMI connected devices into this Tv out of tv optical into my surround sound system since my sound system has no HDMI input.
I inadvertently found the post with a step by step guide: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2114634-official-2015-2016-lg-55eg9100-oled-full-1080p-hdtv-43.html#post41687033

If it doesn't come up properly, it's post 1281 in this thread.
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post #3604 of 3621 Old 04-29-2018, 08:49 PM
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I have my display connected to an HTPC (NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti) and am confused why Just Scan isn't available when the output is set to 1080p 60/59 Hz. It shows up when the signal is 24 Hz, or when the resolution is 1080i, however.
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post #3605 of 3621 Old 04-30-2018, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Megalith View Post
I have my display connected to an HTPC (NVIDIA GTX 1080 Ti) and am confused why Just Scan isn't available when the output is set to 1080p 60/59 Hz. It shows up when the signal is 24 Hz, or when the resolution is 1080i, however.
Do you have input type set to PC? If so, it only shows 16:9 and 4:3 but I think 16:9 in PC mode acts the same as Just Scan outside for PC. You could verify by leaving up a single screen and toggling PC mode on and off.
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post #3606 of 3621 Old 04-30-2018, 01:18 PM
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Yes, it is set to PC, so that would explain it.
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post #3607 of 3621 Old 05-01-2018, 11:54 AM
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So what is the consensus on this particular model's Real Cinema setting?

Some people say it produces the soap opera effect (https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-...r-off.2004928/) even with TruMotion off, though it may be an issue that only affects newer models (e.g., C7P).
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post #3608 of 3621 Old 05-02-2018, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalith View Post
So what is the consensus on this particular model's Real Cinema setting?

Some people say it produces the soap opera effect (https://www.avforums.com/threads/lg-...r-off.2004928/) even with TruMotion off, though it may be an issue that only affects newer models (e.g., C7P).
I think (no slow mo pics or even motion patterns used to confirm) that Real Cinema does not exhibit any strange artifacts except those caused by 24p itself. I have never noticed any SOE, and I would say I'm somewhat sensitive to it, nor have I seen any other motion artifacts associated with LG's motion interpolation, which I have noticed here and there (particularly on 60i content--Trumotion seems to cope much better with 60p content, at least on this set). I have noticed odd stuttering artifacts with Real Cinema set to On, on channels playing movies with rolling tickers (MLB network, for example), but I take that to the algorithm being confused by the movie at 24p within 60i being played alongside a ticker at native 60i.

Setup:
Spoiler!
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post #3609 of 3621 Old 06-03-2018, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Hi everyone. My OLED just suddenly turned off and won't turn back on. The red standby light is on. I've tried unplugging it for ~10 minutes until the red light faded; plugged it back in and still nothing. When I try to turn it on directly from the console, instead of the remote, sometimes the red standby light flickers ever so slightly.

Any idea what may be wrong?

Thanks.
Update: I called LG and they agreed to do a one-time repair, however the repair case was denied because "Adorama is not an authorized LG dealer." After wracking my brain with LG for hours, they're saying that even though Adorama WAS an authorized dealer when I bought the TV in July 2016, they are not an authorized dealer TODAY, so they won't do anything. This makes no sense. I'm considering filing a complaint but don't know where to start or to whom?

Anyway, I called my credit card warranty, submitted paperwork, and called a tv repair tech to diagnose it. He says the main board is not working. I'm waiting to hear back from the credit card warranty on repair approval.

My question is, how can we be sure its the main board, and not the T-Con or something? The tech just checked voltage to the main board with a multimeter. It receives voltage. The schematic diagram for this TV is actually missing the board thats mounted lower middle, but I'm assuming its a T-CON (not sure why it's not listed). If it is the main board, what could be the problem?

Also, I've searched quite a bit and I can't find anyone else having similar issues. Most of the issues detailed are regarding the panel light uniformity problem. So I'm curious, what gives? Am I the only one having this issue?!
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post #3610 of 3621 Old 06-03-2018, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Update: I called LG and they agreed to do a one-time repair, however the repair case was denied because "Adorama is not an authorized LG dealer." After wracking my brain with LG for hours, they're saying that even though Adorama WAS an authorized dealer when I bought the TV in July 2016, they are not an authorized dealer TODAY, so they won't do anything. This makes no sense. I'm considering filing a complaint but don't know where to start or to whom?

Anyway, I called my credit card warranty, submitted paperwork, and called a tv repair tech to diagnose it. He says the main board is not working. I'm waiting to hear back from the credit card warranty on repair approval.

My question is, how can we be sure its the main board, and not the T-Con or something? The tech just checked voltage to the main board with a multimeter. It receives voltage. The schematic diagram for this TV is actually missing the board thats mounted lower middle, but I'm assuming its a T-CON (not sure why it's not listed). If it is the main board, what could be the problem?

Also, I've searched quite a bit and I can't find anyone else having similar issues. Most of the issues detailed are regarding the panel light uniformity problem. So I'm curious, what gives? Am I the only one having this issue?!
If Adorama was an authorized dealer when you bought the set, that is all that should matter. Of course LG had authorized a repair after the warranty expired, so I guess they can back out of their commitment if they choose.

I'd try to reach someone else in a higher level of support. If that doesn't work, continue to work with your credit card warranty, or any 3rd party warranty provider you may have purchased.

Best of luck.
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post #3611 of 3621 Old 06-07-2018, 03:02 PM
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Update is up for the EG9100 4.06. Havent downloaded yet. It popped up on my screen last night.

Sony 65A1E
LG 65EF9500
LG 55EG9100
Samsung 60F8500
LG UP870 Multi-Region
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post #3612 of 3621 Old 06-07-2018, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Update: I called LG and they agreed to do a one-time repair, however the repair case was denied because "Adorama is not an authorized LG dealer." After wracking my brain with LG for hours, they're saying that even though Adorama WAS an authorized dealer when I bought the TV in July 2016, they are not an authorized dealer TODAY, so they won't do anything. This makes no sense. I'm considering filing a complaint but don't know where to start or to whom?

Anyway, I called my credit card warranty, submitted paperwork, and called a tv repair tech to diagnose it. He says the main board is not working. I'm waiting to hear back from the credit card warranty on repair approval.

My question is, how can we be sure its the main board, and not the T-Con or something? The tech just checked voltage to the main board with a multimeter. It receives voltage. The schematic diagram for this TV is actually missing the board thats mounted lower middle, but I'm assuming its a T-CON (not sure why it's not listed). If it is the main board, what could be the problem?

Also, I've searched quite a bit and I can't find anyone else having similar issues. Most of the issues detailed are regarding the panel light uniformity problem. So I'm curious, what gives? Am I the only one having this issue?!
I figured this out with multiple swaps(my own bought t-cons) and a fix from LG, T-Con boards are panel specific with LG OLEDs. When you get a new panel, it comes with a new t-con board already attached. If you try to swap it out with a different one, your screen will look like **** for the most part. I swapped out 3 different t-con boards and every one of them looked different as soon as I turned the television on. Different banding, different black, no black at all just grey and so on.

Sony 65A1E
LG 65EF9500
LG 55EG9100
Samsung 60F8500
LG UP870 Multi-Region
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post #3613 of 3621 Old 06-09-2018, 04:03 PM
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I have couple questions. About three HDMI inputs, are these identical to each other? And which one better for wathcing Blu ray movies? (im using number 3)
Also, when I calibrate TV using Chromapure software the only gamma work is 1886 in Expert 1 mode, I cant get 2.2 correct. why is that? And should i use 2.2 or 1886 Gamma? And should i use Cinema mode?
And thank you for answering.
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post #3614 of 3621 Old 06-25-2018, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Hi everyone. My OLED just suddenly turned off and won't turn back on. The red standby light is on. I've tried unplugging it for ~10 minutes until the red light faded; plugged it back in and still nothing. When I try to turn it on directly from the console, instead of the remote, sometimes the red standby light flickers ever so slightly.

Any idea what may be wrong?

Thanks.
Update: I called LG and they agreed to do a one-time repair, however the repair case was denied because "Adorama is not an authorized LG dealer." After wracking my brain with LG for hours, they're saying that even though Adorama WAS an authorized dealer when I bought the TV in July 2016, they are not an authorized dealer TODAY, so they won't do anything. This makes no sense. I'm considering filing a complaint but don't know where to start or to whom?

Anyway, I called my credit card warranty, submitted paperwork, and called a tv repair tech to diagnose it. He says the main board is not working. I'm waiting to hear back from the credit card warranty on repair approval.

My question is, how can we be sure its the main board, and not the T-Con or something? The tech just checked voltage to the main board with a multimeter. It receives voltage. The schematic diagram for this TV is actually missing the board thats mounted lower middle, but I'm assuming its a T-CON (not sure why it's not listed). If it is the main board, what could be the problem?

Also, I've searched quite a bit and I can't find anyone else having similar issues. Most of the issues detailed are regarding the panel light uniformity problem. So I'm curious, what gives? Am I the only one having this issue?!
So regarding this issue, if the main board is indeed out, what are my options? Can I repair the board myself by replacing the IC or something; if so, how might I go about diagnosing which chip failed on the board?

Otherwise, can I just buy a replacement main board online and pop it in, or will it require some service menu programming? Can I program it myself; how so?
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post #3615 of 3621 Old 06-26-2018, 03:07 AM
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just wondering if this TV can actually do HDR(wide color gamut)..I am asking because i read a article on cnet titled "Do you need 4K TV for HDR?" and somewhere in the article it mentioned Netflix being able to stream HDR on 1080p. I wanted to test the theory so i picked something that would have a very nice picture. "Planet earth 2" and i am amazed at how good it looks...The colors really do seem more vibrant than other things i have watched...I have the wide color gamut option enabled just in case i came across something that utilized it. Not really thinking i would ever....But watching "Planet Earth 2" I am convinced it is HDR. It's just so much more vibrant than anything else i have watched on this TV. This show was what this TV was made for OMG it's beautiful.

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post #3616 of 3621 Old 06-26-2018, 05:23 AM
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just wondering if this TV can actually do HDR(wide color gamut)..I am asking because i read a article on cnet titled "Do you need 4K TV for HDR?" and somewhere in the article it mentioned Netflix being able to stream HDR on 1080p. I wanted to test the theory so i picked something that would have a very nice picture. "Planet earth 2" and i am amazed at how good it looks...The colors really do seem more vibrant than other things i have watched...I have the wide color gamut option enabled just in case i came across something that utilized it. Not really thinking i would ever....But watching "Planet Earth 2" I am convinced it is HDR. It's just so much more vibrant than anything else i have watched on this TV. This show was what this TV was made for OMG it's beautiful.


In order to display hdr the tv would have to be able to recognize the metadata and trigger hdr processing . The 9100 does not have that capability and never will . Your are just pushing the primaries farther out than the rec 709 standard farther from reference.


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post #3617 of 3621 Old 08-20-2018, 08:12 PM
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Which would be the correct output color depth setting for this display? 8bpc or 12bpc?
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post #3618 of 3621 Old 09-02-2018, 11:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by avsproha View Post
Hi everyone. My OLED just suddenly turned off and won't turn back on. The red standby light is on. I've tried unplugging it for ~10 minutes until the red light faded; plugged it back in and still nothing. When I try to turn it on directly from the console, instead of the remote, sometimes the red standby light flickers ever so slightly.

Any idea what may be wrong?

Thanks.
Update: I called LG and they agreed to do a one-time repair, however the repair case was denied because "Adorama is not an authorized LG dealer." After wracking my brain with LG for hours, they're saying that even though Adorama WAS an authorized dealer when I bought the TV in July 2016, they are not an authorized dealer TODAY, so they won't do anything. This makes no sense. I'm considering filing a complaint but don't know where to start or to whom?

Anyway, I called my credit card warranty, submitted paperwork, and called a tv repair tech to diagnose it. He says the main board is not working. I'm waiting to hear back from the credit card warranty on repair approval.

My question is, how can we be sure its the main board, and not the T-Con or something? The tech just checked voltage to the main board with a multimeter. It receives voltage. The schematic diagram for this TV is actually missing the board thats mounted lower middle, but I'm assuming its a T-CON (not sure why it's not listed). If it is the main board, what could be the problem?

Also, I've searched quite a bit and I can't find anyone else having similar issues. Most of the issues detailed are regarding the panel light uniformity problem. So I'm curious, what gives? Am I the only one having this issue?!
So regarding this issue, if the main board is indeed out, what are my options? Can I repair the board myself by replacing the IC or something; if so, how might I go about diagnosing which chip failed on the board?

Otherwise, can I just buy a replacement main board online and pop it in, or will it require some service menu programming? Can I program it myself; how so?
Just an update on this. I bought and installed a replacement main board direct from LG. The tv still doesn’t work. What happens now is that the power board does “click” on but then turns back off after a few seconds. When the power is on, all the correct voltages are coming out from the power board so it doesn’t look like a power issue to me.

What I discovered is if I unplug the ribbon that runs from the main board to the t-con, then the power does not turn back off. However, as soon as I reconnect the main board to t-con ribbon, the power immediately clicks off. So what’s going on here?
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post #3619 of 3621 Old 01-01-2019, 08:08 AM
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has anyone hooked a ps4pro up to this, and switched it to wide color gamut? I have a 4k hdr tv, and compared to this model with hdr disabled by default in the ps4 menu, and deep color set to automatic I think the colors look better on this tv.

if anyone has a copy of ratchet and clank, thats a good game to compare.
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post #3620 of 3621 Old 04-18-2019, 04:45 AM
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If the gamma showing much below target (through software calibration) is it ok to adjust the green in number 100 in 20-point or the green in both high and low in 2-point in order the gamma reach target?
Thank you for answering.

Last edited by Knight7m; 04-18-2019 at 04:57 AM.
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post #3621 of 3621 Old 04-18-2019, 06:11 AM
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Official 2015-2016 LG 55EG9100 OLED "full" 1080p HDTV.

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Originally Posted by Knight7m View Post
If the gamma showing much below target (through software calibration) is it ok to adjust the green in number 100 in 20-point or the green in both high and low in 2-point in order the gamma reach target?
Thank you for answering.


You should use the 2 point for rgb balance only , green controls luminance(gamma) in the 20 point , can’t recall if the 9100 had a luminance control if so use that add to move gamma down decrease to move the gamma up . If you don’t have that control get the rgb correct using red and blue preferably then use green to adjust gamma . Hope that helps. You shouldn’t have to touch 100 for gamma all the other points are based on that .



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