LG 55EF9500 and 65EF9500 OLED Owners Thread - Page 298 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #8911 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
What is happening is nothing like LCD off axis saturation degradation. On my 55 EF, moving off axis causes Red luminance to decrease and it makes a White pattern turn Blue. It almost has to be the filter.

3D is excellent on my OLED.
Maybe degradation wasn't the correct word, but what you are experiencing is exactly what I saw on all of the ones i've seen. I'd imagine it's not an issue people are talking about on here because vignette and yellow bands make everything else seem minor. If those didn't exist, i'm sure we'd see people complaining about off axis. Though, IMO, the off axis on these sets far exceeds any LCD/LED i've seen.

Don't both SS and you have the 55" model? Neither of you seem to really have the problems many owners on here are reporting and you guys throw the sets through much more tests than us. It seems almost every single complaint is from a 65" owner.

EDIT: Sad to report my friend just got his replacement 55" delivered, the box was damaged and the screen was cracked so the drivers had to take it back.

Last edited by Tyrindor; 11-25-2015 at 11:59 AM.
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post #8912 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
I can confirm that all 65" EF9500s that I have seen have had noticeably worse white uniformity than 55". I have seen the off axis degradation on all versions of the set, but I never watch off axis so it's never been an issue. It's still way better than LCD off axis viewing. My first 65" actually got a pinkish tint in the edges that was extremely noticeable off angle, none of the others have done that.

Vignette varies greatly based on the sets i've seen in person. The best i've seen in real life was my old 509 which had none until 3%, and even then it was only half an inch. The second EF9500 has about 3 inches on one side at 5%, and half an inch at 10%. Noticeable in content. My friend's 55 has even worse dark edges. At 5% it has ~5" from the edges that are slightly darker but not totally crushed, then solid dark around 2" in an almost straight line. His white uniformity is absolutely perfect though, best i've seen and better than any pictures i've seen in this thread.

All sets i've seen have had absolutely poor black uniformity, which surprisingly is never really an issue and rarely shows up in real content. It does show up in dark games though, due to the amount of panning that FPS games have.

3D crosstalk is a minor problem on both the 65s I had, I have to sit on a pillow to get rid of it. 3D crosstalk on a 55" I tested was absolutely awful and unfixable, which is why my friend is exchanging it. My friend's 55" replacement is actually coming in today. I will be heading back over there to check it out, so i'll have another 55" sample to look at. If white uniformity is perfect again, there's no doubt I will be refunding my 65 and going with a 55.

In short when getting a new set I would encourage anyone to:
- Put up a 100% white and check for any pink/yellow bands/blobs, any form of this is a defect that doesn't exist on all sets.
- Put up a 5% gray and check for vignette, if it's over half an inch on each side in a dark room, it's pretty bad. Ideally you should have none at 5%. All sets are going to have it at below 5%, but it's not really minor at that point.
- Play a 3D disc that has tests for crosstalk, or watch a few 3D movies. Chances are you will get crosstalk if you recline in your chair, but if you still get crosstalk while sitting dead center then the 3D filter was applied incorrectly.

With these 3 tests you've covered the major widespread defects that are noticeable in real content. Sadly, getting one that checks out in all 3 departments is pretty rare - though I feel the 55" version only has to worry about 2 of these issues.



Yup, you and about 50 other owners. It always seems minor at first, but if it's there, you will notice it in some content and when you do you'll start noticing it more and more.

Yellow band is (IMO) the worst defect on these TVs. If it's there, EXCHANGE before it's too late!
The 3D on all three of my 65EF9500s has been stunning on content (Avatar, Star Trek Into Darkness, Life of Pi) but I have not run any specific test patterns for 3D crosstalk - do you know where to find them? Are they available here on AVS Forum?

p.s. different folks are sensitive to different strokes - I find 55EC9300-like gradual discoloration near white to be invisible on content, while the 'black flames' caused by 3" of vignetting, even if only at 3%, are very noticeable, distracting, and objectionable when watching dark content in a dark room. Abrupt near-white discoloration such as the classic 'yellow banding' pictured on many posts at the beginning of this thread is another story - the abrupt vertical transitions would be easily noticeable on any white content such as hockey, scenes of snow, or the famous bathroom scene from Casablanca...
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post #8913 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 11:54 AM
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What about OLED light?
40 at night, 60 during the day. Contrast at 80.
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post #8914 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 11:58 AM
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Seems like we still playing the lottery here..
Anyone have any insight into the LG exchange process? Best Buy isn't going to match any of the online only retailers other than specifically named.

Currently a few with really nice discounts, but I'm concerned with the potential to end up with a yellow/pink set.
Probably because they'll only match authorized dealers and those shown on your post don't seem to be authorized dealers?

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post #8915 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 12:14 PM
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
They were all in my response.
I would like to read the source article.

If a link is available, would you please post it even though you have copied them here?

Thanks.
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post #8916 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by tvad View Post
I would like to read the source article.

If a link is available, would you please post it even though you have copied them here?

Thanks.
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post38722345

EDIT: oh yeah, forgot they lower sharpness to 0, which is inline with what Buzz recommends as well. I lowered tint to G3 based on the WOW disc and I have trumotion set to 2/9 instead of 0/10. Everything else is the same.

My mom saw the TV for the first time recently, and she commented on how vivid the colors were LOL .

EDIT #2 : Oh yeah, I also set the two noise reductions to Auto since the bulk of my watching is DirecTV.

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post #8917 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post38722345

EDIT: oh yeah, forgot they lower sharpness to 0, which is inline with what Buzz recommends as well.
Thanks. I was looking for that post the other day and could not find it.

Re: sharpness...I played with this last night using a DVD as a source from my Oppo Blu-Ray player. I actually prefer sharpness higher than 10. That might change if watching a Blu-Ray disc.
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post #8918 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 12:38 PM
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Local dealer has the 75X940C for $4,499. Love my EF9500 but those 10" would be nice. The stress of decisions like this.
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post #8919 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by CMPOLED View Post
Local dealer has the 75X940C for $4,499. Love my EF9500 but those 10" would be nice. The stress of decisions like this.
There are tradeoffs. The 940C has perfect screen uniformity. I had the 940C for about a month. There are issues that bothered me. First, if you self Local dimming to high it messes up contrast, and it can't be fixed. No matter how low you go, it will at times give people shiny heads. So you have to set it to medium. The other issue that drove me nuts, was the occasional light bleed into the black bars. If there was a dark scene, with something bright near the black bars, the brightness would bleed into the black bars, making part of the bars look like they have clouding. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. in other words, it was blooming into the black bars.
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post #8920 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
What is happening is nothing like LCD off axis saturation degradation. On my 55 EF, moving off axis causes Red luminance to decrease and it makes a White pattern turn Blue. It almost has to be the filter.



3D is excellent on my OLED.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Maybe degradation wasn't the correct word, but what you are experiencing is exactly what I saw on all of the ones i've seen. I'd imagine it's not an issue people are talking about on here because vignette and yellow bands make everything else seem minor. If those didn't exist, i'm sure we'd see people complaining about off axis. Though, IMO, the off axis on these sets far exceeds any LCD/LED i've seen.

Don't both SS and you have the 55" model? Neither of you seem to really have the problems many owners on here are reporting and you guys throw the sets through much more tests than us. It seems almost every single complaint is from a 65" owner.

EDIT: Sad to report my friend just got his replacement 55" delivered, the box was damaged and the screen was cracked so the drivers had to take it back.

I think SS has the 65"

My 55" changes whites to bluish color off axis almost like one of those holographic baseball cards when you turn it side to side but it doesn't bother me because at least the whole tv is not washed out like my lcd tv's. I'm far more concerned with my dead pixel and blocky/halo blacks. Wishing every day I had just let them swap my main board.

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post #8921 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:06 PM
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Help I'm having set up issues.

So I need advice on a few things. I now have an Lg 55EF9500 and I love it so far but I have the following problems:
I set up Pandora but when I go to the App I just get a frozen or locked screen. Any thoughts?

I set my TV so that now everything connects to the TV via HDMI with an ARC HDMI going to the Onkyo TX709 receiver through PCM. But I don't here my rear surrounds. And I have trouble accessing the receiver menu at all with this set up.

Lastly, I'd love to get this calibrated but don't want to spend a fortune. I live near Houston. Any suggestions? Is Best Buy any good? And if I try it myself what are the suggested settings and how do I access the menu for making the changes like brightness?
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post #8922 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:10 PM
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I'm okay with whatever size makes sense, like 4% area instead of my 10% area.

If setting those things causes white sub-pixels to come on and pull the red in further than REC.709 then my goal is to really have those only turned up until the red is saturated properly.

Essentially, with proper REC.709 if a display can do 1000 nits for white it is supposed to be able to do about 200 nits of pure red. If the OLED can do 400 nits for white we could assume that the highest red in a red fire could be 40% as bright as the proper level, but we need to take the white sub-pixels out of the picture if they mess up the saturation.

If the white sub-pixels account for a large percentage of that 400 nits then instead of getting 80 nits of pure red we could get significantly less, which would put that even further from the source's 200 nits of red for 1000 nit whites.

So, my goal is to find out how much properly saturated red the display can do for instance, then green and blue.

I'm less concerned about only getting 400 nits for white highlights with HDR than I am getting poor levels for highlights that contain zero of at least one of the 3 primaries (so shouldn't be pulled toward white).

I was thinking that if the next gen was 800 nits vs 400 nits for white now I might not wait, but trying to get an idea of whether I would want to wait for more light for saturated primaries that might come with the next model.

I hope that explains it.

Thanks,
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I understand. I did the test yesterday, full bore 255 level colors at full oled light and 80 contrast. There was no undersaturation. I'll post the graphs when I get a chance.

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post #8923 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:17 PM
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I'm far more concerned with my dead pixel and blocky/halo blacks. Wishing every day I had just let them swap my main board.
So you have them too? Nearly 300 page thread with nothing said about this until I pointed them out a few pages back. Why isn't this more of a known issue than the yellow band or (especially) vignette. In my eyes, it's a far worse issue.

If I could get back my old EF9500 with the faint yellow band I would. The blocky blacks on this one ruin so many scenes and I've put a good 10 something hours into 20pt calibration trying to fix it. It's impossible, it's simply a limitation or defect in the panel.

Called Best Buy and they told me I have until Jan 15th to file an exchange, so I may just wait for more 511s (or even 512s) to hit because it seems like blocky blacks are potentially a new widespread issue.

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I understand. I did the test yesterday, full bore 255 level colors at full oled light and 80 contrast. There was no undersaturation. I'll post the graphs when I get a chance.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
Have you experienced blocky blacks with any of the EF9500s you've seen? If so, any way to fix it? The 0%-5% blacks on my set are 4bit at best, but if I had to guess they are closer to 2bit. Banding, blockiness, and just awful night scenes. Tried all gamma settings, tried flatting gamma using 20pts, tried factory resetting. I've been on your waiting list to get calibration for like 6 months now, but I keep having to push it back because I can't seem to get a good set.

http://ft.trillian.im/50117e87623ed7...KnPpFveg6a.jpg

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post #8924 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:20 PM
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The other issue that drove me nuts, was the occasional light bleed into the black bars. If there was a dark scene, with something bright near the black bars, the brightness would bleed into the black bars, making part of the bars look like they have clouding. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. in other words, it was blooming into the black bars.
Well, duh . The 940C only has 84 dimming zones vs. the EF9500's 8,294,400 dimming zones . Thus, you should never buy an LCD .
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post #8925 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:24 PM
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Lastly, I'd love to get this calibrated but don't want to spend a fortune. I live near Houston. Any suggestions? Is Best Buy any good? And if I try it myself what are the suggested settings and how do I access the menu for making the changes like brightness?
Start with Buzz's settings in the first post, or the CR settings and you are going to be 99% of the way there. $20 on a WOW BluRay to finalize the dial in if you want to squeeze that remaining 1% out of it.

No need to spend any more then the $20 on the WOW disc as this TV is pretty much perfect with the aforementioned settings. Even the pro calibrators tell you that .
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post #8926 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:31 PM
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Start with Buzz's settings in the first post, or the CR settings and you are going to be 99% of the way there....this TV is pretty much perfect with the aforementioned settings.
I can't agree with that statement. I found with either starting point (Buzz or CR), some adjustments needed to be made on my set before it was watchable. Sharpness, color tint/depth, and judder all required adjustments (and I'm still not dialed in).

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post #8927 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:32 PM
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Start with Buzz's settings in the first post, or the CR settings and you are going to be 99% of the way there. $20 on a WOW BluRay to finalize the dial in if you want to squeeze that remaining 1% out of it.

No need to spend any more then the $20 on the WOW disc as this TV is pretty much perfect with the aforementioned settings. Even the pro calibrators tell you that .
Highly disagree. How far a set is off varies greatly and there's no way to know without a proper calibration or equipment. My TV pushed a lot of blue in the 30-60% ranges, even after a 2pt calibration. 20 point calibration on this set can do wonders if done correctly, which usually takes a professional because these sets have pretty flaky controls. Flipping between "calibrated without 20pt" and "calibrated with 20pt" is an incredible difference on my set - and i'm using an un-profiled sensor and free software. A professional could do much better.

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post #8928 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:37 PM
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Highly disagree. How far a set is off varies greatly and there's no way to know without a proper calibration. My TV pushed a lot of blue in the 30-60% ranges, even with a 2pt calibration. 20 point calibration on this set can do wonders if done correctly, which usually takes a professional because these sets have pretty flaky controls. Flipping between "calibrated" without 20pt controls and "calibrated" with 20pt controls is an incredible difference on my set.
You don't count . You're unhappy with every TV that's ever been made for one reason or another .

You're also the only person on this thread to ever report the blocky blacks LOL, so that's probably your settings, no offense intended and not trying to start an argument or anything. But if only one person is seeing that issue, I'd have to suspect its your settings.

Yellow / Pink is definitely an issue and I would reject a lot of the screens people have posted here.
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post #8929 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:40 PM
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Second Amazon update in two days, anyone know why?

Actually I noticed that the UHD resolution seems much more steady not dropping to 1080P.

Last edited by CMPOLED; 11-25-2015 at 02:44 PM.
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post #8930 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
You don't count . You're unhappy with every TV that's ever been made for one reason or another .

You're also the only person on this thread to ever report the blocky blacks LOL, so that's probably your settings, no offense intended and not trying to start an argument or anything. But if only one person is seeing that issue, I'd have to suspect its your settings.

Yellow / Pink is definitely an issue and I would reject a lot of the screens people have posted here.
News to me, was happy with my Sony HX929 until OLED came out and then I was happy with my EC9300 OLED. The free 49" TV even has less defects than both EEF9500s I've owned. 4K OLEDs have major widespread issues and are a big hit or miss right now. This thread proves that when you have owners exchanging half a dozen times each.

3 other people in the last 5 or so pages have reported blocky blacks too...? Let alone I JUST replied to one. I may have been the first to report it, but I am definitely not the only one with the issue.

Already stated multiple times that I've done factory resets in attempt to fix the blacks. It's definitely not my settings, which are basically identical to the ones you just recommended.

Saying you'll get 100% out of a TV with a simple calibration BD and copying settings is absurd. I mean no offense, and don't want to start an argument either, but it's just not true at all. If it was you wouldn't have people investing so much time and money calibrating these sets with 3DLUTs. I can guarantee you've never even attempted to hook up a sensor and do a 20pt calibration to the display, yet you are claiming there's basically no benefits. I have, and I am telling you there is.

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post #8931 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:44 PM
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I can't agree with that statement. I found with either starting point (Buzz or CR), some adjustments needed to be made on my set before it was watchable. Sharpness, color tint/depth, and judder all required adjustments (and I'm still not dialed in).
"Before it was watchable"? lol...

Sharpness = 0 doesn't soften the picture

Color Depth? You mean the Ultra Deep setting? That doesn't even do anything unless you have a 4:4:4 source (PC or an upscaling BluRay player which isn't the same thing). This doesn't even count as a picture setting.

The Trumotion settings aren't really picture settings either. They are more to your own taste.

The only legit one you mentioned is the color tint and if you don't have a calibration disc, its probably more to your taste vs. reference colors.
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post #8932 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CMPOLED View Post
Local dealer has the 75X940C for $4,499. Love my EF9500 but those 10" would be nice. The stress of decisions like this.
There are tradeoffs. The 940C has perfect screen uniformity. I had the 940C for about a month. There are issues that bothered me. First, if you self Local dimming to high it messes up contrast, and it can't be fixed. No matter how low you go, it will at times give people shiny heads. So you have to set it to medium. The other issue that drove me nuts, was the occasional light bleed into the black bars. If there was a dark scene, with something bright near the black bars, the brightness would bleed into the black bars, making part of the bars look like they have clouding. Once you see it, you can't unsee it. in other words, it was blooming into the black bars.
Some review also said it doesn't have a color management system? Can't remember what review site said that, but I also can't confirm?
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post #8933 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:52 PM
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"Before it was watchable"? lol...

Sharpness = 0 doesn't soften the picture

Color Depth? You mean the Ultra Deep setting? That doesn't even do anything unless you have a 4:4:4 source (PC or an upscaling BluRay player which isn't the same thing). This doesn't even count as a picture setting.

The Trumotion settings aren't really picture settings either. They are more to your own taste.

The only legit one you mentioned is the color tint and if you don't have a calibration disc, its probably more to your taste vs. reference colors.
Sorry. I can't agree.

Sharpness = 0 definitely softens the picture. It's unwatchable to the point of looking out of focus. I work in network television production, and I can assure you that what comes out of our studio looks nothing like what Sharpness=0 produces.

Same applies to color/tint from the CR settings.

In any case, I'm going to have the set professionally calibrated by a THX Certified technician. That should put to rest any issues regarding accuracy vs. preference, and variations due to my display versus the display calibrated by CR.

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post #8934 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
News to me, was happy with my Sony HX929 until OLED came out and then I was happy with my EC9300 OLED. The free 49" TV even has less defects than both EEF9500s I've owned. 4K OLEDs have major widespread issues and are a big hit or miss right now. This thread proves that when you have owners exchanging half a dozen times each.

3 other people in the last 5 or so pages have reported blocky blacks too...? Let alone I JUST replied to one.

Already stated multiple times that I've done factory reset in attempt to fix the blacks. Totally my settings, which are basically identical to the ones you just recommended.
All the EF9500s you've had you complained about .

None of the recommended settings talk about doing 2 pt or 20 pt adjustments.

I get it man, you are ultra picky, you have even said so yourself.

*shrug* if you think something is wrong with the set, then just exchange it .

Most on the thread have maybe exchanged once or twice. Only a few members, which I won't name are up in the 5, 6, 7, exchanges...
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post #8935 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tvad View Post
Sorry. I can't agree.

Sharpness = 0 definitely softens the picture. It's unwatchable to the point of looking out of focus. I work in network television production, and I can assure you that what comes out of our studio looks nothing like what Sharpness=0 produces.

Same applies to color/tint from the CR settings.

In any case, I'm going to have the set professionally calibrated. That will put to rest any issues regarding accuracy vs. preference, and variations due to my display versus the display calibrated by CR.
0 Sharpness makes my EF9500 blurry too. I use Chad B's recommend sharpness settings HSharp: 10, V Sharp: 20.

Sets are not created equal, and vary greatly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
All the EF9500s you've had you complained about .

None of the recommended settings talk about doing 2 pt or 20 pt adjustments.

I get it man, you are ultra picky, you have even said so yourself.

*shrug* if you think something is wrong with the set, then just exchange it .

Most on the thread have maybe exchanged once or twice. Only a few members, which I won't name are up in the 5, 6, 7, exchanges...
I've only had 2. First one had a yellow band which you yourself just said is not acceptable. The second one is doing terrible things in night scenes (I just linked a picture here http://ft.trillian.im/50117e87623ed7...KnPpFveg6a.jpg), which I'd say is more distracting than the yellow band was. If you call that PQ being "picky" then i'd like to see what you consider acceptable when it comes to a $5000 display.

None of the recommended settings talk about 2pt and 20pt adjustments because they vary GREATLY per set, and copying them will almost always result in a worse picture. This is common knowledge around these parts...? Copying white balance settings is bad. The only way you are going to get 100% out of a picture is training yourself and buying expensive equipment, or hiring a professional. ... And the difference between copying settings on the internet and a professional calibration is major on any set.

Last edited by Tyrindor; 11-25-2015 at 03:05 PM.
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post #8936 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
None of the recommended settings talk about doing 2 pt or 20 pt adjustments.
CNET's Calibration Setting for the 65EF9500 contain setting for Method:2 Points and Method:20 Points.
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post #8937 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
Store model looks worse.
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Originally Posted by CMPOLED View Post
From photos yours looks worse although I know the photos do not always capture what you are seeing. From what I see yours has more bands of different colors
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post #8938 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 03:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Highly disagree. How far a set is off varies greatly and there's no way to know without a proper calibration or equipment. My TV pushed a lot of blue in the 30-60% ranges, even after a 2pt calibration. 20 point calibration on this set can do wonders if done correctly, which usually takes a professional because these sets have pretty flaky controls. Flipping between "calibrated without 20pt" and "calibrated with 20pt" is an incredible difference on my set - and i'm using an un-profiled sensor and free software. A professional could do much better.
Don't you wonder what the true xyY is then? There's a reason pros always profile a colorimeter from a spectro device.

As to your 30-60% blue push (actually there is only Red push like on the Panasonic VT30) - here's mine out of the box. Any time you get numbers +/- 5% you're doing just fine unless you want a full blown THX, ISF, or high end experienced enthusiast calibration.


Buzz
THX Certified Level II Video Calibrator



 
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post #8939 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvad View Post
Sorry. I can't agree.

Sharpness = 0 definitely softens the picture. It's unwatchable to the point of looking out of focus. I work in network television production, and I can assure you that what comes out of our studio looks nothing like what Sharpness=0 produces.

Same applies to color/tint from the CR settings.

In any case, I'm going to have the set professionally calibrated. That will put to rest any issues regarding accuracy vs. preference, and variations due to my display versus the display calibrated by CR.
*shrug* a very experienced calibrator (Buzz) said it doesn't. CR happened to agree with him.

And yes, of course, this TV isn't going to look like a studio master . How in the world are you even getting a studio master on your TV? DirecTV? OTA? BluRay? Unless you are a pocketing a studio hard drive on your way out the door, you'll never see PQ at that level in your house. It's converted and compressed and scaled and processed a million times before it gets to you.

I don't work in network TV, but I can tell you I consider DirecTV to be crap. Their PQ stinks. Overly compressed. Really visible in dark scenes. OTA is the same thing. Streaming depends on the source, but as most places stream to the masses that don't have 1Gbps connections, they are going to be compressed down.
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post #8940 of 24645 Old 11-25-2015, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post

None of the recommended settings talk about 2pt and 20pt adjustments because they vary GREATLY per set, and copying them will almost always result in a worse picture. This is common knowledge around these parts...? Copying white balance settings is bad. The only way you are going to get 100% out of a picture is training yourself and buying expensive equipment, or hiring a professional. ... And the difference between copying those recommended settings and a professional calibration is major.
Well, CNET does and people copy their settings LOL. Yeah, bad idea.

And yeah, I did say that the yellow band is worth an exchange. I have yellow blob on mine, but its only faintly visible on 100% white and not on anything else I tested with. Not even really visible in the menus. I did *try* to exchange it just cuz I was being ultra picky , but BB was being a PITA, so I decided to keep it.
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