LG 55EF9500 and 65EF9500 OLED Owners Thread - Page 301 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9001 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
As long as 1% still looks gray and not green or red it should be fine.
It's all about compromises on the LG. Eventually perhaps LG or another manufacturer will incorporate calibration controls that really work well on OLED displays. The 2013 and 2014 Panasonic plasma multi point Gamma controls come to mind.....
Gamma controls are nice, save ya some extra work trying to even things out with 20 clicks or more of s correction...
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post #9002 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post
When I tried watching The Man in The High Castle tonight via the Amazon app I am only showing a 1080p when I hit the info button. I am using the UltraHD section. I also am not seeing HDR obviously. Is there some other setting I need to change?

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As long as your positive your watching the right one (the thumbnail/tile for the show has 2 labels in the upper left corner UHD & Prime. The 1080P version only has Prime) you don't have to do anything special.. as soon as it starts playing "HDR is now on." should appear in the top right corner for a second, and after 5 or 10 seconds the info should show Ultra HD (needs to buffer). If it still shows 1080P during the whole show there isn't enough bandwidth available to go to Ultra HD mode I'd guess..
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post #9003 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by life_is_good View Post
As long as your positive your watching the right one (the thumbnail/tile for the show has 2 labels in the upper left corner UHD & Prime. The 1080P version only has Prime) you don't have to do anything special.. as soon as it starts playing "HDR is now on." should appear in the top right corner for a second, and after 5 or 10 seconds the info should show Ultra HD (needs to buffer). If it still shows 1080P during the whole show there isn't enough bandwidth available to go to Ultra HD mode I'd guess..
Ues, it's now showing in UltraHD. Didn't see the HDR message; is that the only way to know you are watching in HDR?

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post #9004 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinotguy View Post
Knew you'd make the right decision.
Yeah, I really do love the 65EF9500. Now only if Cleveland Plasma would get back to me :P.

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post #9005 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
As long as 1% still looks gray and not green or red it should be fine.
Settled on using the 2 point WB instead and setting blue low to -2. I actually did notice some green trying to adjust the 5 IRE in the 20 point control. 2 point WB got me where I wanted to be. Looks better, especially on the 1% to 3% slides.

I appreciate all the help from the group.
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post #9006 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 08:45 PM
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Where's your local warehouse, if you don't mind?

Looking forward to your 100% white and your grayscales.
I was shopping in Fort Worth and the warehouse was in Greensville which is between Fort Worth and Dallas.

I'll do some reading up tomorrow on what tests to run and how as I just found this forum earlier today.

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Best buy let you go to their warehouse and choose the build? That's surprising... may have to ask about that.
Well they had 0 in stock and had nothing on their books for getting more in over the weekend due to them pushing other models for black Friday. It was the only way I could get one today.
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post #9007 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:05 PM
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I adjusted the 20 pt WB while this set is very close I noticed an improvement from ISF without.

Little details in skin tones seem more lifelike, you have to look close.

Last edited by CMPOLED; 11-25-2015 at 09:22 PM.
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post #9008 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
What is happening is nothing like LCD off axis saturation degradation. On my 55 EF, moving off axis causes Red luminance to decrease and it makes a White pattern turn Blue. It almost has to be the filter.

3D is excellent on my OLED.
It's not just yours, and I agree it's probably the filter.

On my 55" white uniformity is great when viewed straight on, but if you move to the right, the right side of the screen appears more red, while the left appears more blue. The opposite happens when you move to the left side of the screen - left side red, right side blue.

In content, I only notice it while sitting on the right side of my L shaped sectional during very white scenes. It's not bad enough to really bother me, but I notice it because I've become anal from this forum.

As with your set, my 3D (lack of) crosstalk is fine from many angles.
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post #9009 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:19 PM
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After spending some time with the Sony X940C today the LG up conversation looks pretty crummy.
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post #9010 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by dreamtheatre View Post
Ues, it's now showing in UltraHD. Didn't see the HDR message; is that the only way to know you are watching in HDR?

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firmware version ?

if all else fails unplug tv for 2 min to reboot it

other way to tell is if you hit the menu button and go to picture settings, it will show HDR (App) -- locked can't change anything
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post #9011 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:29 PM
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Originally Posted by CMPOLED View Post
After spending some time with the Sony X940C today the LG up conversation looks pretty crummy.
That's interesting. I could not tell the difference when I went from the 940c to the 9500. I will say motion is a little better on the 940C.
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post #9012 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 09:31 PM
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Oops, yes, prior to 950b I had 850c and 930c. Never owned 940c.

Last edited by wisdompaths; 11-25-2015 at 11:29 PM. Reason: Error
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post #9013 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 10:42 PM
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Originally Posted by wisdompaths View Post
After going through sony 850c and 940c, I have to say 950b has much better upconversion than either of previous tvs I've had. Less artifacting than even previous samsung F8500. I've never had 940c though....
just an FYI, i think you meant to say sony 850c and 930c***, edit the post so you dont confuse anyone

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post #9014 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 10:47 PM
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That's interesting. I could not tell the difference when I went from the 940c to the 9500. I will say motion is a little better on the 940C.
Maybe Direct TV suck that's bad. I could not believe the detail in the 1080i up converting in the 940C. It looked 4k. My locals on Direct Tv do look crummy so not fair to compare.

I was also going off memory.

Last edited by CMPOLED; 11-25-2015 at 10:54 PM.
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post #9015 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 11:05 PM
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I think I finally got my issue with brightness setting pretty much fixed. I had the issue where if I set my brightness to where bars 18 and above flash, with 17 extremely faint, I would not get a black screen when using the 0% slide. It was not completely black. it looked to be between 0 and 1%. The only way to fix that was raise the brightness to where 19 and above flashed. Of course this led to some crushed blacks and increased vignetting on 2 and 3% slides. I was stuck using brightness of 49 for 2.2 gamma and 50 for 2.4 gamma. Tonight I decided to try adjusting 2 point WB. I adjusted low blue to -2. Then I put my brightness back to 52 for 2.2 and 54 for 2.4. Bars 18 and above flashed as before with 17 faintly visible. The big difference is now the 0% slide is completely black, 2 and 3% have less vignetting and absolutely no vignetting 4% and above. I'm enjoying the tv even more now.

My hats off to the calibrators who have discussed what they adjust over the many pages of this thread.
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post #9016 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 11:20 PM
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Switching to gamma BT.1886 reduced my Vignetting to almost nothing on 5% and zero at 10 %, very Happy.
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Last edited by CMPOLED; 11-25-2015 at 11:26 PM.
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post #9017 of 24643 Old 11-25-2015, 11:51 PM
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Confirmed no yellow stain on my 510, just the black is not black when the screen is all black.

Is it anyone else, or when watching content and the screen goes to black it does seem to display a nice all black, and then you can start to see the bands… which is simply our irises opening up when the light from objects on the balance of the screen go away.

Also saw some black flames but no obvious vignetting.

Short of returning it and getting a projector, I don't think I will do better and given some of the pink and yellow staining photos I've seen here I could do a lot worse.
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Last edited by kucharsk; 11-26-2015 at 02:04 AM.
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post #9018 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by fafrd View Post
Gradual discoloration is very difficult to see on content. Throw up a hockey game and the bathroom scene from CasaBlanca and if you don't notice discoloration with that content, it is unlikely to be something that you notice on other content.

Excessive vignette is a more significant PQ defect, at least if you watch dark content in a dark room...

The abrupt discoloration such as the 'yellow band' displayed by some 508 and 509 65EF9500s is a different story; the distinct edges made that discoloration much more visible (scan the first few pages of this thread to find examples).
My TV gets double duty as a PC monitor so the big yellowish-red band in the middle is annoying because I see it every time I use a web browser or open a folder. I'd probably deal with it if it wasn't in the exact middle of the screen.

It's actually more noticeable with light blue content (such as the blue color used in forum posts here) than it is with white since the blue and yellow-red seem to cancel each other out somewhat leaving an off-white color.

Curiously, the discoloration disappears when viewed off-center by even relatively small amounts, say 10 or 15 degrees. I wonder if the yellowing is actually an issue with the glass or filter.
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post #9019 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 02:41 AM
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Start with Buzz's settings in the first post, or the CR settings and you are going to be 99% of the way there. $20 on a WOW BluRay to finalize the dial in if you want to squeeze that remaining 1% out of it.

No need to spend any more then the $20 on the WOW disc as this TV is pretty much perfect with the aforementioned settings. Even the pro calibrators tell you that .
start with buzz's setting mean after 100 hours or not?
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post #9020 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 03:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by CMPOLED View Post
Switching to gamma BT.1886 reduced my Vignetting to almost nothing on 5% and zero at 10 %, very Happy.
1886 is busted - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post38096905



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Originally Posted by Luigi Marcarelli View Post
start with buzz's setting mean after 100 hours or not?
No law says you can't do it now. Happy thanksgiving.

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post #9021 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 04:28 AM
 
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
1886 is busted - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...l#post38096905





No law says you can't do it now. Happy thanksgiving.
I have fooled around using 1886 and found it to be ok. Explain to a regular joe what your graphs show please...LOL
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post #9022 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 05:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by yamvmax1;3924625p8
I have fooled around using 1886 and found it to be ok. Explain to a regular joe what your graphs show please...LOL
That graph is taken from measurements made of Gamma without smoothing with the White Balance controls. The green line is the result of selecting the 2.4 Gamma preset. If anything, the 1886 preset (blue line) should be approximately overlaid on the green. Instead, it is reducing Gamma by 2 points AND the color balance is worse. It appears that the 1886 preset is nothing more than the 2.2 preset although I didn't do that measurement - should have.

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post #9023 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 05:27 AM
 
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
That graph is taken from measurements made of Gamma without smoothing with the White Balance controls. The green line is the result of selecting the 2.4 Gamma preset. If anything, the 1886 preset (blue line) should be approximately overlaid on the green. Instead, it is reducing Gamma by 2 points AND the color balance is worse. It appears that the 1886 preset is nothing more than the 2.2 preset although I didn't do that measurement - should have.
IDK, but i am thinking the 1886 helps the 65 with shadow details. Have you tried calibrating a ef6500?
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post #9024 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by life_is_good View Post
firmware version ?

if all else fails unplug tv for 2 min to reboot it

other way to tell is if you hit the menu button and go to picture settings, it will show HDR (App) -- locked can't change anything
O3.01.15. I tried checking for updates, but no go.

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post #9025 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by SledgeHammer View Post
I dunno, maybe that's the red push you are talking about, but so far, I've only scratched my head on it on that one show, so...
...so you would be in for a real treat when you see it can get even better!

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post #9026 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyrindor View Post
Best buy let you go to their warehouse and choose the build? That's surprising... may have to ask about that.
Choosing the build date means very little. Just last week heard from a client telling me LG confirmed to him that no changes have been made to the assembly line as of yet. With that said build date means nothing, getting a set you like no matter what build date means everything.......
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post #9027 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
That graph is taken from measurements made of Gamma without smoothing with the White Balance controls. The green line is the result of selecting the 2.4 Gamma preset. If anything, the 1886 preset (blue line) should be approximately overlaid on the green. Instead, it is reducing Gamma by 2 points AND the color balance is worse. It appears that the 1886 preset is nothing more than the 2.2 preset although I didn't do that measurement - should have.
From professional reviews of the oled sets online BT 1886 and gamma 2.4 are darn near identical. One review stated they could find no difference in them. Since the oled reaches absolute black that makes sense. For most sets they will come out of black faster at 0-5% above black.


http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/55eg9...1504224046.htm
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post #9028 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 06:52 AM
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Are there any optimal manual (3d depth & 3d viewpoint) 3D settings for these oled displays?


Similar to trumotion 2,10 for dejudder deblur giving the best results?
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post #9029 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Choosing the build date means very little. Just last week heard from a client telling me LG confirmed to him that no changes have been made to the assembly line as of yet. With that said build date means nothing, getting a set you like no matter what build date means everything.......
Based on owner feedback there has been a dramatic decrease in yellow bands from 510 onward though, it's almost a non-issue now. Newer batches are still using newer parts, and if the yellow band was indeed a faulty batch of old parts that was never identified, the issue gets weeded out over time even with no changes to the assembly line. So far that seems to be the case because the issue is getting rarer each day.

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From professional reviews of the oled sets online BT 1886 and gamma 2.4 are darn near identical. One review stated they could find no difference in them. Since the oled reaches absolute black that makes sense. For most sets they will come out of black faster at 0-5% above black.


http://www.hdtvtest.co.uk/news/55eg9...1504224046.htm
If the BT1886 setting actually worked on this TV that would be correct, it should be roughly the same as 2.4 but it doesn't work. At all.

BT1886 setting seem to be the exact same as the 2.2 gamma setting with a very slight boost in the less than 5% range. It's been like that on all the three 4K OLED sets i've calibrated. I wouldn't recommend using it personally.

Last edited by Tyrindor; 11-26-2015 at 07:14 AM.
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post #9030 of 24643 Old 11-26-2015, 07:20 AM
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Question for the calibration experts.

On my Blu-ray player, I have the following Deep Color output options:
1) 36 Bits
2) 30 Bits (Dithered)
3) 30 Bits
4) Off 9 (Dithered)
5) Off

Also, the player offers the following Primary Video Output selections:
1) Auto - the player will determine its output resolution based on the best signal resolution that the TV can display
2) 1080p
3) Various resolutions below 1080p
4) Source Direct

Which setting should I select?

Last edited by tvad; 11-26-2015 at 08:34 AM.
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