LG 55EF9500 and 65EF9500 OLED Owners Thread - Page 688 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #20611 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JT78681 View Post
I didn't know you could pay by movie. I need to check out their website again.
Yeah, for example the The Martian UHD is $7.99.

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4) Late charges - If you are on an active subscription plan, there are no late charges or due dates. If you paid per/rental, you must put the rental back in the mail within 7 days from receiving it. For example, if you receive a rental on Monday 4/2, you will need to put it back in the mail by Monday 4/9. We do not need to receive it by Monday 4/9. It will just need to be postmarked by that date. Starting on the 8th day, a $1 per/day late fee will be charged to your credit card. By the 17th day, if you have not put the rental back in the mail, you will be charged the current manufacturer's suggested retail price or market value, and at this point, you do not need to return the rental.

5) As a renter, you authorize 3D Blu-ray Rental, Inc. to charge your credit card for late charges (see #4), discs returned in a worse condition (see #3), or
un-returned discs.
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post #20612 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 02:36 PM - Thread Starter
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My daughter and her husband are buying a new house in the Twin Cities and I'll be giving them my 55EF when they close sometime in mid July. Needless to say, with 3D LUT calibration, they'll have the best picture in Minnesota.

I am replacing it with a 2016 55E6 that I ordered yesterday morning from Chris Majoros at Cleveland Plasma. FedEx delivered it 28 hours later - fantastic service.

A couple things:
1. There is the same Red luminance reduction on off axis viewing as described in post 2 of this thread.
2. I have a 1080p pattern, all black except for 1 pixel illuminated white in each of the four corners. Only the two left hand pixels show on both the EF and the E6.
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post #20613 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by buzzard767 View Post
My daughter and her husband are buying a new house in the Twin Cities and I'll be giving them my 55EF when they close sometime in mid July. Needless to say, with 3D LUT calibration, they'll have the best picture in Minnesota.

I am replacing it with a 2016 55E6 that I ordered yesterday morning from Chris Majoros at Cleveland Plasma. FedEx delivered it 28 hours later - fantastic service.

A couple things:
1. There is the same Red luminance reduction on off axis viewing as described in post 2 of this thread.
2. I have a 1080p pattern, all black except for 1 pixel illuminated white in each of the four corners. Only the two left hand pixels show on both the EF and the E6.
Can't wait to hear your thoughts on the e6 congrats as well
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post #20614 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 03:17 PM
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Not as far as I know. You need to have your eyes centered on the screen. But it's worth it. I've been buying more 3D now with this tv. I think if the average home viewers had this tv, 3D would have been much bigger than it is.



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Originally Posted by Justin4894 View Post
I have the tv slightly above my seating area so my eyes are at the bottom of the screen and my 3D has horrible crosstalk there. If i stand up its perfect though. I don't suppose there is any way to adjust that is there? I was looking at the 3D settings and they mainly just adjust the foreground and background. Is this pretty common?
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post #20615 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkMul1 View Post
Here are a few pics. The black grows on the sides and gets wider as the scene goes along. You can also see my beautiful banding, i dont see it too often luckily. I don't know why the pics went in sideways.

Let me know if yours looks like this. It does not on my LCD TV in a different room.

Anyone else?
On mine, if I am at less than 1080 tier is it just a lot of banding around the clouds when the storm comes. I backed up after the intro and got 1080 resolution going thru the time lapse storms, and it kinda encroaches from the edges of the screen during the night scene when the storm is real bad.

I checked it on my samsung lcd in the bedroom, and of course since the black level is not as good there was just some banding during that time lapse shot. Now when I say banding Im more talking of the contouring in the clouds. As far as vertical banding of the OLED, I don't see any in that scene (2.2 gamma brightness 49).

I personally think it is the way the one shot looks, kinda like the james bond intro tunnel view. If you look closely as the storm gets going during the time lapse, the black grows, and then goes away. That isn't the display.

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post #20616 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 05:39 PM
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I have been seeing the recent recommendations to use 100 OLED and controlling brightness with contrast to avoid ABL but will that shorten the lifespan of the display?
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post #20617 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 06:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
On mine, if I am at less than 1080 tier is it just a lot of banding around the clouds when the storm comes. I backed up after the intro and got 1080 resolution going thru the time lapse storms, and it kinda encroaches from the edges of the screen during the night scene when the storm is real bad.

I checked it on my samsung lcd in the bedroom, and of course since the black level is not as good there was just some banding during that time lapse shot. Now when I say banding Im more talking of the contouring in the clouds. As far as vertical banding of the OLED, I don't see any in that scene (2.2 gamma brightness 49).

I personally think it is the way the one shot looks, kinda like the james bond intro tunnel view. If you look closely as the storm gets going during the time lapse, the black grows, and then goes away. That isn't the display.

Much appreciated. I think besides my banding I just have a lot of blooming / posterazarion. I think that leads to exaggerated stuff on mine.
Thanks again
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post #20618 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Maverick0984 View Post
I have been seeing the recent recommendations to use 100 OLED and controlling brightness with contrast to avoid ABL but will that shorten the lifespan of the display?
No. To be honest, the doom and gloom about display life span has been there since 2003 when I had my first plasma. Everyone used to worry about half-life's, etc... My father in law is still enjoying a 12 year old 720p Samsung plasma lol.

For me, light output it light output. 45fL with OLED light 45 and Contrast 80, or 45fL with OLED light 100 and contrast 55, is 45fL. I mean everyone is big on HDR, guess what it does, maxes out both. Everyone loves 3D, guess what you need to do with it . Now anything to cut down on ABL I am all for.

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Much appreciated. I think besides my banding I just have a lot of blooming / posterazarion. I think that leads to exaggerated stuff on mine.
Thanks again

This is a good example of what I saw in the dark time lapse, other than the black encroaching during the storm



Just some false contouring, which I tend to see in dark scenes with a little too much compression. I saw the same contouring on the Samsung LED LCD, just not as much black encroachment which I would assume is due to poor black levels on the LED LCD.
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post #20619 of 24634 Old 06-03-2016, 07:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick0984 View Post
I have been seeing the recent recommendations to use 100 OLED and controlling brightness with contrast to avoid ABL but will that shorten the lifespan of the display?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
For me, light output it light output. 45fL with OLED light 45 and Contrast 80, or 45fL with OLED light 100 and contrast 55, is 45fL. I mean everyone is big on HDR, guess what it does, maxes out both. Everyone loves 3D, guess what you need to do with it . Now anything to cut down on ABL I am all for.

That's logical.

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post #20620 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 08:02 AM
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I will say this, the gamma and grayscale seems to be a lot more susceptible to change when using OLED 100, vs Contrast 78-80 and adjusting for light output with OLED.

Just moving from as found 45fL results to 40fL results, gamma went a little more wonky and the green error at 5% got worse depending on what setting you used. IMO, getting rid of the green spike at 5% is one of the best things you can do, other than setting black level properly.

Funny how spoiled we have gotten, I remember a few moons ago where all you had was 2pt WB in the service menu and no gamma adjustments.

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post #20621 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 08:46 AM
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If I don't have access to calibration equipment, what's the setting I should adjust for the 5% spike?

Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
I will say this, the gamma and grayscale seems to be a lot more susceptible to change when using OLED 100, vs Contrast 78-80 and adjusting for light output with OLED.

Just moving from as found 45fL results to 40fL results, gamma went a little more wonky and the green error at 5% got worse depending on what setting you used. IMO, getting rid of the green spike at 5% is one of the best things you can do, other than setting black level properly.

Funny how spoiled we have gotten, I remember a few moons ago where all you had was 2pt WB in the service menu and no gamma adjustments.
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post #20622 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ohnder View Post
If I don't have access to calibration equipment, what's the setting I should adjust for the 5% spike?
A good eye, and you can look at a 5% pattern and see the greenish tint to what should be a dark grey. The other issue is, if you go into 2pt low and click blue +3 or 4, it is going to increase 10 to about 50 more blue. Blue is a much better color than red or green to have too much of, and green is the worst offender to our eyes.

The other option would be to use 20pt and 5%, and add some blu there. I think people have seen some green from 1-4% as well, and just adjusting 5 would not address most likely, but I have not messed with that.

I just did as Chad suggested, I used 2pt low to fix 5% to a low error which makes broad changes of more blue to the whole low range, and 2pt hi to fix 100%. I never touched those controls again, and use 10-95% 20pt controls for grayscale and gamma.

If you have some cash laying around, you could grab an i1 display III OEM (EODIS3 is $249 on Amazon for example) for cheap and use HFCR that many have talked about here. These cheap colorimeters are not good without a profile for color work, but are pretty easy with grayscale and good enough for our work. be careful if you go that route though, it will suck you in...

You can get HCFR for free, but @zoyd has done a lot of work so a donation would be nice

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post #20623 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 11:38 AM
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Tried the 2 pt setting for green but couldn't get it right. I think I'll leave the values default.
Only thing helping with near black is taking brightness down. I noticed on 5% when taking brightness down to 41 it went all black. There was a huge leap from 42 to 41. Obviously a setting of 41 is not acceptable but I took it down a little to 46 instead. Just checked Godzilla fight scenes (worst near black offender) and it looks quite acceptable. Obviously I had to max contrast as well as up the oled light.
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post #20624 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MarkMul1 View Post
Its the beginning, starts with a kind of light beach scene then changes to dark with stars and lightning. My pics are in the beginning not near the end when the faces appear / clouds. I really appreciate you taking a look and helping. Let me know how it looked at the beginning night / stars and lightning scene.

Thanks
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, been busy. I went back and looked at it again at night when the room was dark and indeed I did see blackness creeping in from the sides and the corners.
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post #20625 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Out of the box the TV is very very good. With no cost calibration using black and white clipping patterns to properly set Brightness and Contrast the picture gets a little better (mostly in the near black region if you clip black correctly). With a "DIY Amateur" route using a budget meter and software, the results can get near perfect after a lot of patience and learning. But with someone like Chad, the one time cost is similar to starting up your own DIY route, but his results are perfect. He is a great guy and will make your display perform the best it is capable of.

If you plan on keeping the TV for an extended time (I.E. the upgrade bug isn't an issue), then paying Chad is the best option in terms of picture quality possible. Just make sure the panel on your TV is a keeper before paying him (or someone else) to calibrate it of course.
Great advise. For most people doing it the DIY way, they will probably not get good results being a novice .....Just remember a great cost in in the drive time for him, if everyone lived within 50 miles of him I bet his rates would drop off
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post #20626 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
Great advise. For most people doing it the DIY way, they will probably not get good results being a novice .....Just remember a great cost in in the drive time for him, if everyone lived within 50 miles of him I bet his rates would drop off
And his revisits are pretty dang cheap. I enjoy the learning part, plus being in an area that only see's 2 visits a year at best (sometimes), I like being able to get a new display somewhat right before the pro can visit. Saves from having to watch a crap image, granted some displays are getting better at being more accurate out of the box.

For DIYers, there is some satisfaction to looking at an image knowing you did it. But it cost more $$$ than letting a pro do it

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post #20627 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ohnder View Post
Tried the 2 pt setting for green but couldn't get it right. I think I'll leave the values default.
Only thing helping with near black is taking brightness down. I noticed on 5% when taking brightness down to 41 it went all black. There was a huge leap from 42 to 41. Obviously a setting of 41 is not acceptable but I took it down a little to 46 instead. Just checked Godzilla fight scenes (worst near black offender) and it looks quite acceptable. Obviously I had to max contrast as well as up the oled light.
May I ask what gamma you are using with 46 brightness to help with near black?
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post #20628 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 02:14 PM
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DIgital Audio pass-through

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Originally Posted by kucharsk View Post
Optical out works beautifully for me for both 5.1 and two channel TV as well as for 5.1 from streaming apps; Man in the High Castle sounded great (HDR almost needed sunglasses to view.)

I have an older surround processor (Lexicon MC-8) that does not even have HDMI, though I have a box that can send HDMI audio out over optical/coax if needed.
How did you get pass-through to work? I have a appleTV connected via HDMI to TV; the appleTV is sending DolbyDigital (verified via info button on tv's remote). However what is sent via optical out to my Denon is PCM. Hence my Denon plays stereo or can simulate surrpond.

This set up used to work beautifully with my 8 year old toshiba.
How did you make pass though of digital signal (ie DD or DTS) via optical out work?
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post #20629 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 02:32 PM
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I'll need to know that too. My 65ef showing up Wednesday, have same setup with my Devon and Panny plasma. Passes DD 5.1 right now.

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post #20630 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by srrjra View Post
How did you get pass-through to work? I have a appleTV connected via HDMI to TV; the appleTV is sending DolbyDigital (verified via info button on tv's remote). However what is sent via optical out to my Denon is PCM. Hence my Denon plays stereo or can simulate surrpond.
My HDMI goes to a DVDO processor that then sends the video on to the TV and has a digital out that runs to my MC-8.

I don't recall if the 9500 is one of the few TVs to pass DD out from anything but sources internal to the TV (its tuner and apps.)
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post #20631 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 05:19 PM
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I read through most of these posts after the last week or so, and needed a little bit of clarification.

What are the main differences between these 2015 OLEDs, and the new ones that just came out for 2016.


(2015 on best buy website)

LG - 65" Class (64.5" Diag.) - OLED - 2160p - Smart - 3D - 4K Ultra HD TV - Silver



(2016 on best buy website)
LG - 65" Class - (64.5" Diag.) - OLED - 2160p - Smart - 3D - 4K Ultra HD TV - with High Dynamic Range - Black


Didn't the 2015 models allow HDR with all inputs, and streaming? Is this real HDR, or some fake HDR added from a firmware update?

Anything else I should look for when choosing from last years and the current model (for more money $$)

Thanks to all...
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post #20632 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyOnTheWall View Post
I read through most of these posts after the last week or so, and needed a little bit of clarification.

What are the main differences between these 2015 OLEDs, and the new ones that just came out for 2016.


(2015 on best buy website)

LG - 65" Class (64.5" Diag.) - OLED - 2160p - Smart - 3D - 4K Ultra HD TV - Silver



(2016 on best buy website)
LG - 65" Class - (64.5" Diag.) - OLED - 2160p - Smart - 3D - 4K Ultra HD TV - with High Dynamic Range - Black


Didn't the 2015 models allow HDR with all inputs, and streaming? Is this real HDR, or some fake HDR added from a firmware update?

Anything else I should look for when choosing from last years and the current model (for more money $$)

Thanks to all...
The EF9500 models all support HDR10 content (the defacto UHD Bluray HDR standard). The new 2016 models support both HDR10 and Dolby Vision. As of right now, the repercussions of not having of Dolby Vision support on a TV are not quite clear content wise. All UHD Blurays must have HDR10 support with Dolby Vision an optional add-on per each studios decision. As far as 4k streaming content, there is no set standard and some content is Dolby Vision only right now, meaning if your get an EF9500 you will not get HDR on said content. HOWEVER, the word from Amazon, Netflix, and Vudu is that their content will support both Dolby Vision and HDR10 in the near future so that "customers are not forced to choose a TV based on content restrictions."

The EG9600 models (the curved 2015 models) ONLY support HDR via built-in streaming apps. So they don't have any HDR support via HDMI sources.
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post #20633 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
The EF9500 models all support HDR10 content (the defacto UHD Bluray HDR standard). The new 2016 models support both HDR10 and Dolby Vision. As of right now, the repercussions of not having of Dolby Vision support on a TV are not quite clear content wise. All UHD Blurays must have HDR10 support with Dolby Vision an optional add-on per each studios decision. As far as 4k streaming content, there is no set standard and some content is Dolby Vision only right now, meaning if your get an EF9500 you will not get HDR on said content. HOWEVER, the word from Amazon, Netflix, and Vudu is that their content will support both Dolby Vision and HDR10 in the near future so that "customers are not forced to choose a TV based on content restrictions."

The EG9600 models (the curved 2015 models) ONLY support HDR via built-in streaming apps. So they don't have any HDR support via HDMI sources.
Thank you for the clear and concise information. Definitely appreciate it.

Is Dolby Vision Hardware or Software? Any other real drawbacks for choosing a last years model Oled... They still look great IMO.
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post #20634 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyOnTheWall View Post
Thank you for the clear and concise information. Definitely appreciate it.

Is Dolby Vision Hardware or Software? Any other real drawbacks for choosing a last years model Oled... They still look great IMO.
Main drawback for me was about the $2k difference.

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post #20635 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyOnTheWall View Post
Thank you for the clear and concise information. Definitely appreciate it.

Is Dolby Vision Hardware or Software? Any other real drawbacks for choosing a last years model Oled... They still look great IMO.
I believe Dolby Vision is hardware...but someone can correct me if I am wrong.

Numbers wise the 2016 models will have a higher peak brightness for HDR content. But considering HDR on the EF9500 can get eye searingly bright already it stands to reason that isn't a major drawback, if even minor.

The big drawback is the higher possibility of getting a bad panel on the EF9500's but if buying new with warranty LG will take care of rectifying the problem if that's the case.

I too was looking at 2015 vs. 2016 and decided on the EF9500 due to saving about $2.5k ordering from Cleveland Plasma.

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post #20636 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:46 PM
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DV requires DV hardware to be on board.

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post #20637 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
I believe Dolby Vision is hardware...but someone can correct me if I am wrong.

Numbers wise the 2016 models will have a higher peak brightness for HDR content. But considering HDR on the EF9500 can get eye searingly bright already it stands to reason that isn't a major drawback, if even minor.

The big drawback is the higher possibility of getting a bad panel on the EF9500's but if buying new with warranty LG will take care of rectifying the problem if that's the case.

I too was looking at 2015 vs. 2016 and decided on the EF9500 due to saving about $2.5k ordering from Cleveland Plasma.

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what kind of panel issues are we talking about?
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post #20638 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 07:56 PM
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what kind of panel issues are we talking about?
Nothing long term or longevity issue based.

The two big issues are vignetting and banding. Both will noticeable the moment you turn the TV on and won't surprise you later on down the road.

The more recent the TV build date, the less likely either issue will be present.

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post #20639 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Nothing long term or longevity issue based.

The two big issues are vignetting and banding. Both will noticeable the moment you turn the TV on and won't surprise you later on down the road.

The more recent the TV build date, the less likely either issue will be present.

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besides build date, should I be looking at a panel number? I know with Samsung, its like a panel lottery.. some are good, some are sharp, etc.

Is there just 1 panel manufacture that makes these for the Oleds?
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post #20640 of 24634 Old 06-04-2016, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by FlyOnTheWall View Post
what kind of panel issues are we talking about?
Good gawd man, just read the thread... going back 10 pages should be enough, probably 1/3 of this thread are the folks either griping about, or having banding complaints..
Not saying it's as big an issue as some have made it out to be, but it shoulnd't be hard to catch up rather than having folks start up the whole damn discussion once again
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