2016 LG OLEDs - G6, E6, C6, and B6 - Page 303 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9061 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
Greetings OLED peeps,

After a four year hiatus, I am posting again to ask a few questions. Please be kind as I, like the poster a few bars up did not read through all the posts. I read about 9-11 pages then stopped. Here are my questions and comments. Please add your two cents.

I am looking at getting a deal on an OLED65C6P today for $2500. Quickly reading through your links I understand that many prefer the E series and I contacted LG and spoke with the store management at length about the 65E with its glass instead of plastic screen. They are asking $1400 more for the E over the C. I do see some difference in the picture but not a big difference. I really want to replace my outgoing 55LX9500 with 3D as I have a collection of this type of movie and enjoy it. Aside from the plastic versus glass mentioned, is there any other "issue"? The curved I assume is a preference. I have stared and stared at the store where the B and C share the wall and frankly I am not against the curve but I do see a slight difference viewing. I appreciate any comments and await to hear some feedback as no one in my family is "electronical" He He and gives a darn but me and I like to hash over stuff with people that know. I read about the upcoming 2017 models and see that 3D is gone and aside from "brighter" a bit, they sound the same so I believe now may be a time to jump. BTW any ideas on how to sell the 9500?
You have to decide on the curve for your use. The E also has a better internal speaker, but if you use theatre sound, it doesn't matter.

Sony is getting in the OLED game and other probably also. This will bring prices down. Even LG is starting to announce new models.

I got the E only because it was a $500 difference. If you want flat and 3d, this is the only way to go for now.

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post #9062 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by landonsdad View Post
You have to decide on the curve for your use. The E also has a better internal speaker, but if you use theatre sound, it doesn't matter.

Sony is getting in the OLED game and other probably also. This will bring prices down. Even LG is starting to announce new models.

I got the E only because it was a $500 difference. If you want flat and 3d, this is the only way to go for now.
Thanks. Yeah, it is actually $1500 difference. I was off as it is $3999 vs. $2500. The "no 3D" is the secondary issue for buying 2017 model. My decision looks to be curved or $1500 more. The TV sound is not important as I use the receiver.

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post #9063 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 09:39 AM
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I don't mind film grain in moderation, even a moderately heavy dose, but the Netflix Marvel shows are just absurdly excessive. None of the marvel films have this heavy of film grain. I know the rest of the Marvel Cinematic Universe is relatively light-hearted vs Jessica Jones, Luke Cage, and Daredevil (and eventually Punisher), so I am not sure why they feel they needed to get so gritty with the image for these shows...
Everyone should try an outside streamer instead of the internal- Daredevil via DV on the internal streamer is grainier, less enjoyable vs the streamer in my Philips UHD player via HDR. Maybe it's Netflix's DV implementation, who knows. Settings are the same (as they can be)
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post #9064 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
Always go bigger if it fits and is in the budget.
Thanks for the input.

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post #9065 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 11:35 AM
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OK, post from watching flat E6 vs. curved C6. Sitting in front of the curved screen about 7 feet I do not see any distortion in normal watching. I am going to view at 45 degrees or so- the max of my area at home and continue to compare before plunking down the dough.
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post #9066 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Cleveland Plasma View Post
My thoughts are you are buying the best TV technology ever made Congrads !! With the price where it is I would not call that no interest though.
It's the same price cash or financing, How do you not call it no interest?? Yes I'm aware I can get it less online if I pay cash but if something happens for something that big I will have to pay for shipping it back and forth, Most online retailers don't accept returns for few dead pixels to keep that in mind, But the local stores accept returns for any reason. The only few things I will never buy online are: My food, my shoes, cars and TV's.

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post #9067 of 12480 Old 01-21-2017, 05:57 PM
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I got the 65C6 and saved my $1500. I was struggling knowing that people said the E6 was the best but I had to literally play a mind game of imagining a C6 and $1500 on a counter or an E6 alone. In my opinion, they are both very good televisions.
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post #9068 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by latreche34 View Post
It's the same price cash or financing, How do you not call it no interest?? Yes I'm aware I can get it less online if I pay cash but if something happens for something that big I will have to pay for shipping it back and forth, Most online retailers don't accept returns for few dead pixels to keep that in mind, But the local stores accept returns for any reason. The only few things I will never buy online are: My food, my shoes, cars and TV's.
Plenty of choices out there and there is no wrong answer. Think about this for a second, if these things happened like 20% of the time, A company like Amazon with easy returns would pull the product off there web site, I bet even at 10% they would. The market place in ways will show you when these issues are high. So far I bought one car online, a Z06. Had to send a wire, ship it, that was a little scary I will admit but it turned out a OK
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post #9069 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 09:49 AM
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E6 and static electricity

Hi, maybe a strange thing, but sometimes when we walk near the 65 E6, the screen turn black for a second, and when we passed it turns back on
This happens (twice) when temps are near 0 celcius (outside), did not have this before when temp is up.
Any one else with this strange static electricity problem ?
And maybe what to do about it ?

Thanks..
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post #9070 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 10:08 AM
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lg smart tv harmony netflix

Anybody get a Harmony remote (or any universal remote) to launch Netflix directly?

I see that the LG TV Plus iPhone app has a 'launcher" page that sends a code to the tv to launch Netflix directly. It would be nice if the remote I just paid $300 for could learn that.

I have tried automating what the "magic remote" does but that is anything but reliable and doesn't work at all in many situations.
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post #9071 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 01:44 PM
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Well, I finally got my B6 installed today:



Now it's onto calibration and such...

I need some help with the following questions:
  1. How do I enable 4k on netflix and amazon? is there a setting on the LG smart apps or do I need to call netflix/amazon to enable, or is it automatic? how do i know if it's 4k signal or just 1080p being upconverted?
  2. Is there an info widget or notification that shows up if HDR is on? if so, where do I check?
  3. Can you guys give me some "test" tracks on netflix or amazon or youtube to check the 4k HDR settings on it?
  4. I turned on HDM deep color, and it seems like the contrast went dimmer... is this normal? is the settings supposed to be ON or OFF for Deep color? (There are conflicting replies in this thread regarding that)
  5. can you guys please point me to some of the go-to calibration settings you guys are using as a baseline? I have one I found in youtube but not sure if that's the one you guys are using or not.
  6. Is there any other channels on Directv besides channel 104 that shows 4K content?
  7. Is there an app to screen cast /screenshare videos and other content from iphone to the LG set?

thanks in advance
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post #9072 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 01:57 PM
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I'll answer some of the questions that I know the answers to in-line below:

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
[*]How do I enable 4k on netflix and amazon? is there a setting on the LG smart apps or do I need to call netflix/amazon to enable, or is it automatic? how do i know if it's 4k signal or just 1080p being upconverted?
You need to change your Netflix subscription to the 4 screens/4k plan - you do this via Netflix website. Costs a few extra dollars per month.

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Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
[*]Is there an info widget or notification that shows up if HDR is on? if so, where do I check?
A little pop-up box will come up in the upper right-hand corner of the screen when HDR material is detected. It's all automatic.

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Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
[*]I turned on HDM deep color, and it seems like the contrast went dimmer... is this normal? is the settings supposed to be ON or OFF for Deep color? (There are conflicting replies in this thread regarding that)
YOu only want to turn HDMI deep color on for HDMI ports that have a 4k/HDR device connected to them (such as a 4k bluray player) - you want it OFF for all other devices



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post #9073 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by haggisbingo View Post
Anybody get a Harmony remote (or any universal remote) to launch Netflix directly?

I see that the LG TV Plus iPhone app has a 'launcher" page that sends a code to the tv to launch Netflix directly. It would be nice if the remote I just paid $300 for could learn that.

I have tried automating what the "magic remote" does but that is anything but reliable and doesn't work at all in many situations.
I ran every single IR code possible and Netflix never launched automatically.

I did accidently run into some weird menus, but unfortunately nothing too useful like launching Netflix.
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post #9074 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 02:31 PM
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Thanks! I'm now resigned to just having the App menu come up when the "SmartTV" action I added is selected from Harmony. And even that was a struggle getting the right inputs to use... Part of the problem I'm pretty sure is that I have ARC setup so that I can get the great picture from the LG native apps and still use my Yamaha receiver and 7.1 speakers...

I would just use the Roku Ultra, since it's more programmable, if it were the same quality of the LG native apps. It just isn't even close (and I have set all the required inputs to make sure that wasn't the problem).

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Originally Posted by mikek View Post
I ran every single IR code possible and Netflix never launched automatically.

I did accidently run into some weird menus, but unfortunately nothing too useful like launching Netflix.
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post #9075 of 12480 Old 01-22-2017, 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
I'll answer some of the questions that I know the answers to in-line below:


You need to change your Netflix subscription to the 4 screens/4k plan - you do this via Netflix website. Costs a few extra dollars per month.
Done. However, I'm not sure if I can "verify" I'm getting 4k or not


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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
A little pop-up box will come up in the upper right-hand corner of the screen when HDR material is detected. It's all automatic.
I googled which tracks are supposed to be 4k + HDR, and I played it but I see no HDR logo or box anywhere

Do I need to be in "HDR" picture settings on the TV?
Do you have a snapshot of what the logo looks like so I can keep an eye on it?


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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
YOu only want to turn HDMI deep color on for HDMI ports that have a 4k/HDR device connected to them (such as a 4k bluray player) - you want it OFF for all other devices
awesome, thanks.

So what if my Bluray is connected to the AVR, as well as other inputs like the directv receiver, and the output is sent to the TV...I assume I keep it ON?
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post #9076 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 01:35 AM
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Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
Done. However, I'm not sure if I can "verify" I'm getting 4k or not
Unfortunately, there is no way with Neflix. Until recently, you could get that info, but Netflix disabled it in a recent app update... No idea why.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
I googled which tracks are supposed to be 4k + HDR, and I played it but I see no HDR logo or box anywhere

Do I need to be in "HDR" picture settings on the TV?
Only certain 4k shows are HDR compatible. Here is one that is definitely 4k and Dolby Vision - "The Do Over" (Adam Sandler movies). You should definitely see the "Dolby Vision" icon appear in the upper right-hand corner of the screen when you play that one from Netflix.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
So what if my Bluray is connected to the AVR, as well as other inputs like the directv receiver, and the output is sent to the TV...I assume I keep it ON?
Yeah, I'm not sure about that. I connect all of my devices directly to the TV via HDMI and then ran an optical cable from my TV to my AVR for audio. This also allows you to have separate video settings on the TV per device...

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post #9077 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 03:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
...
I googled which tracks are supposed to be 4k + HDR, and I played it but I see no HDR logo or box anywhere

Do I need to be in "HDR" picture settings on the TV?
...
As a note, HDR/UHD titles on the Amazon app are a separate listing from the non-UHD versions. You'll have to either scroll till you get to the UHD section of titles or search individually and make sure you select the UHD version.

Netflix usually has a 4K section right towards the top and you can scroll through there easily and see which ones have a Dolby Vision icon under the title description. In my experience not all of the available 4K/HDR shows are in that section so you could also try searching by 4K or HDR in the netflix app by scrolling all the way to the top.
Netflix also does not separate out the titles like Amazon does.


Also:
If you noticed your TV dimming like you said when you turned on HDMI deep color - make sure EPS Energy Saving is disabled on all inputs/apps.
Also make sure you turn on just scan under aspect ratio settings for all inputs/apps so you aren't overscanning the image.

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post #9078 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Unfortunately, there is no way with Neflix. Until recently, you could get that info, but Netflix disabled it in a recent app update... No idea why.
ah, thanks. Well, at least I upgraded the app on the TV, and now i can see the notification of when dolby vision or HDR appears so that's a good step


Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Only certain 4k shows are HDR compatible. Here is one that is definitely 4k and Dolby Vision - "The Do Over" (Adam Sandler movies). You should definitely see the "Dolby Vision" icon appear in the upper right-hand corner of the screen when you play that one from Netflix.
Will try adam sandler for sure. I tried daredevil and couple of others and it seems to work! thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
Yeah, I'm not sure about that. I connect all of my devices directly to the TV via HDMI and then ran an optical cable from my TV to my AVR for audio. This also allows you to have separate video settings on the TV per device...
yeah, I can't do that with my setup the way it's wired. I rather the AVR manage all the switching of inputs, and furthermore, it has a powerful 4K upscaler so for non-4K inputs i rather it handle that than sending it directly to the TV for upconversion.

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As a note, HDR/UHD titles on the Amazon app are a separate listing from the non-UHD versions. You'll have to either scroll till you get to the UHD section of titles or search individually and make sure you select the UHD version.
yep, I saw that finally...Got it to work finally! I checked out Mozart in venice or whatever it was called, and it played with HDR.

One question: So I noticed once HDR is going, my picture mode changed from "Expert mode" to "HDR(user)" ... is this automatic? also, how come none of the other HDR modes were available, just USER mode?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
Also:
If you noticed your TV dimming like you said when you turned on HDMI deep color - make sure EPS Energy Saving is disabled on all inputs/apps.
Sorry for the moronic question, but how? I see that I can select a picture mode per input, and I can apply the settings to all inputs (in terms of changes to each pitcure setting on that mode), but how do i disable EPS for all inputs?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
Also make sure you turn on just scan under aspect ratio settings for all inputs/apps so you aren't overscanning the image.
will do! thanks.
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post #9079 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsterinfl View Post
I got the 65C6 and saved my $1500. I was struggling knowing that people said the E6 was the best but I had to literally play a mind game of imagining a C6 and $1500 on a counter or an E6 alone. In my opinion, they are both very good televisions.
Congratualtions. I made the same choice. Where did you end up ordering from if you don't mind my asking?
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post #9080 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 12:39 PM
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ps- I'm using these settings for my calibration starting point... any one used these before?

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post #9081 of 12480 Old 01-23-2017, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
ps- I'm using these settings for my calibration starting point... any one used these before?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZZK4pVIQ3s
Just be wary about using someone else's grayscale (white balance) settings. For example, his settings may actually be pretty decent for my C6P because my TV's grayscale pushes green a good amount. Whereas I've seen other settings that are completely off and make my set look worse if I use them.

I'm also curious to know what kind of issues he came across by using the 20 point calibration, though, especially since most people use the 20 point calibration.

I'm curious enough just to see, I may try his white balance settings to see how they are. Worst case... just switch inputs and copy the settings back to my current settings.

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post #9082 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 03:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
...

One question: So I noticed once HDR is going, my picture mode changed from "Expert mode" to "HDR(user)" ... is this automatic? also, how come none of the other HDR modes were available, just USER mode?


Sorry for the moronic question, but how? I see that I can select a picture mode per input, and I can apply the settings to all inputs (in terms of changes to each pitcure setting on that mode), but how do i disable EPS for all inputs?
There should be three options when watching HDR10 content (the format currently on UHD Blu Rays and Amazon's HDR shows) - HDR Vivid, Bright and Dark Room. They'll say "user" after them if you've made adjustments to the preset. And yes, it will automatically switch to and HDR preset when watching HDR.

I don't watch much amazon HDR content (yet) - so I'd have to look if that does something different. Last I remember, it would not save adjustments made to the presets for HDR so it would have to be redone each time you used the Amazon app for HDR. If you still don't see all the HDR10 presets make sure you are holding down the settings button to get to the advanced menu to change your picture preset - I'm not sure you'll get all three options from the pop up menu. But it might also be a limitation of the Amazon app - like I said I'll have to look.

Dolby Vision content (like that currently available on Netflix) should let you select from Dolby Vision Dark and Bright Room. I believe they will also say "user" after them if you've adjusted them.


As for turning off energy saving across the board - it's not a moronic question because the TV, somewhat annoyingly, will only copy over the base settings for that picture mode and, if you choose to do so, the 2point/20point gamma adjustments. I don't remember if the energy savings is tied to that picture mode or not (I.E. if it will copy over), but either way, just make sure it's off on each of your HDMI inputs you use, and once you adjust it (or other settings) on one of the built in apps all of them should retain that same adjustment. The USB input I believe also is set up as a separate input to adjust.

Hopefully that's helpful.
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post #9083 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 04:03 AM
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So what if my Bluray is connected to the AVR, as well as other inputs like the directv receiver, and the output is sent to the TV...I assume I keep it ON?
This is from the user manual
"If the device connected to Input Port also
supports ULTRA HD Deep Color, your picture may be clearer. However, if the device doesn’t support it, it may not work properly. In that case, connect the device to a different HDMI port or change the TV’s HDMI ULTRA HD Deep Color setting to Off."

My interpretation: use the same HDMI port unless it does not work for your input.
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post #9084 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 04:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomcup View Post
There should be three options when watching HDR10 content (the format currently on UHD Blu Rays and Amazon's HDR shows) - HDR Vivid, Bright and Dark Room. They'll say "user" after them if you've made adjustments to the preset. And yes, it will automatically switch to and HDR preset when watching HDR.

I don't watch much amazon HDR content (yet) - so I'd have to look if that does something different. Last I remember, it would not save adjustments made to the presets for HDR so it would have to be redone each time you used the Amazon app for HDR. If you still don't see all the HDR10 presets make sure you are holding down the settings button to get to the advanced menu to change your picture preset - I'm not sure you'll get all three options from the pop up menu. But it might also be a limitation of the Amazon app - like I said I'll have to look.

Dolby Vision content (like that currently available on Netflix) should let you select from Dolby Vision Dark and Bright Room. I believe they will also say "user" after them if you've adjusted them.


As for turning off energy saving across the board - it's not a moronic question because the TV, somewhat annoyingly, will only copy over the base settings for that picture mode and, if you choose to do so, the 2point/20point gamma adjustments. I don't remember if the energy savings is tied to that picture mode or not (I.E. if it will copy over), but either way, just make sure it's off on each of your HDMI inputs you use, and once you adjust it (or other settings) on one of the built in apps all of them should retain that same adjustment. The USB input I believe also is set up as a separate input to adjust.

Hopefully that's helpful.
Correct on the Amazon app - that SUCKS! Yeah, the settings you mentioned are copied from input to input as long as you tell it to do so! I constantly find myself verifying this though....just anal & OCD I guess.

Otherwise, there is a decent amount of control over the HDR settings. I recently asked people in another thread what they are using but didnt hear much back.

What do you run OLED light & Contrast at for your HDR/DV settings? I use:

HDR Standard
OLED Light: 88-90
Contrast: 86-88
Brightness: 51
Color: 52
All enhancements OFF

LG OLED65E6P, Samsung PN64H5000
Panny UBD-420, LG UBK-90
Polk RTi Towers, STi surrounds
Polk Subwoofer
Sony DH550 AVR

Last edited by RoadLizard; 01-24-2017 at 04:43 AM.
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post #9085 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 07:15 AM
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guys,

can I ask a huge favor: Can you guys who have your ISF expert mode (bright) settings dialed in and are super happy with it, could you PLEASE post your settings for me?

I'm not perfectly happy with the settings from the video I posted above, and tried playing with it some more, but I can't get it perfectly like I had it with my Kuro ISF settings.. either the colors are little washed up, or when I tweak it to get more pop out of the colors, I lose detail specially on black contours.

Could you guys just post the settings for what you are using for ISF Expert Mode (bright room):


here is mine:
============
Settings ISF Expert Bright Mode
Aspect Ratio 16:9
OLED Light 80
Contrast 85
Brightness 52
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 48
Tint G8
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Gamma 2.2
Color Temperature Warm2
Low 2,-7,5
High 0,-9,-12
Color Management
Yellow 0,2,0
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
Real Cinema Off
Tru Motion Off
===========

thanks in advance!

Last edited by ssabripo; 01-24-2017 at 07:47 AM.
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post #9086 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 08:02 AM
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Between the B6 and the E6, all I am seeing different really is the 3d capability of the e6, and the addition of the soundbar, which, can it even be removed if you are using an AVR and speaker system? I have absolutely no need for a soundbar anywhere.... Would love if you guys could answer!

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post #9087 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssabripo View Post
guys,

can I ask a huge favor: Can you guys who have your ISF expert mode (bright) settings dialed in and are super happy with it, could you PLEASE post your settings for me?

I'm not perfectly happy with the settings from the video I posted above, and tried playing with it some more, but I can't get it perfectly like I had it with my Kuro ISF settings.. either the colors are little washed up, or when I tweak it to get more pop out of the colors, I lose detail specially on black contours.

Could you guys just post the settings for what you are using for ISF Expert Mode (bright room):


here is mine:
============
Settings ISF Expert Bright Mode
Aspect Ratio 16:9
OLED Light 80
Contrast 85
Brightness 52
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 48
Tint G8
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Gamma 2.2
Color Temperature Warm2
Low 2,-7,5
High 0,-9,-12
Color Management
Yellow 0,2,0
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
Real Cinema Off
Tru Motion Off
===========

thanks in advance!
Welcome to the OLED club. You can try the settings below. You can do a reset on that ISF bright mode so it can clear out those previous settings if you wish.

Settings ISF Expert Bright Mode
Aspect Ratio Original
OLED Light 60-80 (Preference and lighting dependent)
Contrast 85
Brightness 51
H Sharpness 0
V Sharpness 0
Color 48
Tint 0
Dynamic Contrast Off
Super Resolution Off
Color Gamut Normal
Edge Enhancer Off
Gamma 2.2 or BT1886
Color Temperature Warm2
Low 0,0,0 - Need calibration meter to set correct values on your set - Same for CMS controls
High 0,0,0
Noise Reduction Off
MPEG Noise Reduction Off
Black Level Low
Real Cinema Off
Tru Motion Off

LG OLED77C8P | Panasonic DP-UB820 | LG OLED65E7P | Sony UBP-X800 | LG OLED65C7P | LG OLED55B6P | Apple 4K TV x3
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post #9088 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
Between the B6 and the E6, all I am seeing different really is the 3d capability of the e6, and the addition of the soundbar, which, can it even be removed if you are using an AVR and speaker system? I have absolutely no need for a soundbar anywhere.... Would love if you guys could answer!
I got the E6 because it was the lowest price for a flat OLED with 3D. After watching a 3D Blu ray on it, I'm very happy with that decision. I was coming from a seven year old Samsung Plasma (one of their higher end screens at the time) with the active 3D glasses that required a battery and would make the screen dark. I can't believe the difference in 3D on this TV. I too was not thrilled about having the soundbar at the bottom of the screen, but now that it's up on the wall I don't actually mind how it looks, and doesn't appear large at all especially in comparison to the 65" screen.

LG OLED65E6P | Oppo UDP-203 | Denon X4300H 7.2.4 | Emotiva XPA-3 | Apple TV 4K | DirecTV Now
Front L&R Paradigm Monitor 9 | Center Paradigm CC 290 | Side Surrounds, Rear Surrounds, 4 Dolby Atmos Heights - all Definitive ProMonitor 800's
Subwoofers SVS PB-2000 X2
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post #9089 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KK in CT View Post
I got the E6 because it was the lowest price for a flat OLED with 3D. After watching a 3D Blu ray on it, I'm very happy with that decision. I was coming from a seven year old Samsung Plasma (one of their higher end screens at the time) with the active 3D glasses that required a battery and would make the screen dark. I can't believe the difference in 3D on this TV. I too was not thrilled about having the soundbar at the bottom of the screen, but now that it's up on the wall I don't actually mind how it looks, and doesn't appear large at all especially in comparison to the 65" screen.
So I'm guessing then that it can't be removed?

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post #9090 of 12480 Old 01-24-2017, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post
So I'm guessing then that it can't be removed?
No, it's part of the "brains" of the TV. It really doesn't look that bad to me. I would rather not have it since it remains out of use for me, but It's grown on me since I got it late last week.

LG OLED65E6P | Oppo UDP-203 | Denon X4300H 7.2.4 | Emotiva XPA-3 | Apple TV 4K | DirecTV Now
Front L&R Paradigm Monitor 9 | Center Paradigm CC 290 | Side Surrounds, Rear Surrounds, 4 Dolby Atmos Heights - all Definitive ProMonitor 800's
Subwoofers SVS PB-2000 X2
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