2016 LG OLED 65G6P and 65E6P Owners Thread - Page 549 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16441 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
I also hunted around for a way to use the Harmony to do the service menu thing but never got anywhere. I just bought the android app and it worked perfectly. But for iOS users.... not sure what to tall ya? The LG service remotes are about $35 bucks but seems like a piss away to turn off ONE feature, lol.
Which Android app, exactly? There are several available in the Google app store.
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post #16442 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:02 AM
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If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)


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post #16443 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
Which Android app, exactly? There are several available in the Google app store.
Service Menu explorer. Costs $6.06 for the version that works. The free one ONLY determines if your set is compatible or not.

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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)


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Or do this ^^^^ . I had no idea..... thats cool

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post #16444 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)


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Thanks for this. Going to try it tonight when I get home.

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post #16445 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)
I have the Harmony 700, and will try this when I get home. Nice piece of detective work!

Anyone know if this piece of Internet wisdom still valid:

"If the service menu asks for a password, enter 0000 (four zero). If 0000 doesn't work for you, try 7777 or 0413 or 8741 or 8743 or 8878."
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post #16446 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Teknomedic View Post
please see above post by me.... any thoughts.
The FPR on your set is one of the worst I've seen - much worse than what I had on my original E6 (and that one was quite bad). There's no possibility you'll ever get decent 3D performance with that set. You should exchange it.

The test image I posted is effective because it removes extraneous image distractions and lets you see exactly where the problems with the FPR are located. There's nowhere you could sit relative to your TV that would provide a consistently good 3D image across the entire screen. These LG sets provide fantastic (although not perfect) 3D if the FPR is doing its job. It's the best I've ever seen. Having owned multiple flat panel and projection displays, I can say that with confidence.

The type of ghosting we're seeing with this test image has nothing to do with the set's electronics. It's entirely an issue of the polarized layer on the screen. It's important to do what you did, which was to position yourself perpendicular to screen center. Having done that, you can be sure that any time there's a significant disparity between the left and right 3D images, ghosting will invariably occur.

I just bought a C6, because LG does not support 3D on its 2017 sets. As someone who absolutely loves 3D, I don't want to be stuck without a great 3D display if something happens to my E6. The first thing I did when the C6 came out of its box was to test for ghosting. Fortunately, the C6 passed the test with very good 3D uniformity.
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post #16447 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
The FPR on your set is one of the worst I've seen - much worse than what I had on my original E6 (and that one was quite bad). There's no possibility you'll ever get decent 3D performance with that set. You should exchange it.

The test image I posted is effective because it removes extraneous image distractions and lets you see exactly where the problems with the FPR are located. There's nowhere you could sit relative to your TV that would provide a consistently good 3D image across the entire screen. These LG sets provide fantastic (although not perfect) 3D if the FPR is doing its job. It's the best I've ever seen. Having owned multiple flat panel and projection displays, I can say that with confidence.

The type of ghosting we're seeing with this test image has nothing to do with the set's electronics. It's entirely an issue of the polarized layer on the screen. It's important to do what you did, which was to position yourself perpendicular to screen center. Having done that, you can be sure that any time there's a significant disparity between the left and right 3D images, ghosting will invariably occur.

I just bought a C6, because LG does not support 3D on its 2017 sets. As someone who absolutely loves 3D, I don't want to be stuck without a great 3D display if something happens to my E6. The first thing I did when the C6 came out of its box was to test for ghosting. Fortunately, the C6 passed the test with very good 3D uniformity.
Hi Joe,

I really appreciate you posting the test! Mine is a C6 and I was wondering if you could look at my photo and let me know if your C6 has similar uniformity.
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post #16448 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
I just bought a C6, because LG does not support 3D on its 2017 sets. As someone who absolutely loves 3D, I don't want to be stuck without a great 3D display if something happens to my E6. The first thing I did when the C6 came out of its box was to test for ghosting. Fortunately, the C6 passed the test with very good 3D uniformity.
Hi Joe,

I really appreciate you posting the test! Mine is a C6 and I was wondering if you could look at my photo and let me know if your C6 has similar uniformity.
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post #16449 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)


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I can confirm the above works with password 0413, thanks for taking the time to type it out.

EZ-ADJ is the service menu, in-start is a secondary info/service menu.

Do NOT press in-stop unless you want to factory reset your TV.
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Last edited by Pottypotsworth; 02-16-2017 at 10:51 AM.
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post #16450 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 10:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
The FPR on your set is one of the worst I've seen - much worse than what I had on my original E6 (and that one was quite bad). There's no possibility you'll ever get decent 3D performance with that set. You should exchange it.
What do you reckon to this bad boy, Joseph?

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post #16451 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by cfitzpatrick711 View Post
Hi Joe,

I really appreciate you posting the test! Mine is a C6 and I was wondering if you could look at my photo and let me know if your C6 has similar uniformity.
It's a little hard for me to tell if what I'm seeing in your picture is uniformity problems or reflections from the room. Could you cover up the stand in front of the TV and turn off lights in the back of the room, then take another photo? My C6 has very good uniformity, as good as the replacement E6 LG provided. Ghosting appears in both sets in only the worst case commercial movies. That is, it shows up on screen only in movies where stereo disparity and contrast are most severe. Remember, ghosting is almost never "baked" into a movie. Ghosting is caused by the display or the 3D glasses, or both - almost never the source 3D.

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post #16452 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Pottypotsworth View Post
What do you reckon to this bad boy, Joseph?

It's a black and white image, so the color indicates a different issue - perhaps the image being displayed in the wrong color space by the TV. I can't make heads or tails of that.

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post #16453 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
I have the Harmony 700, and will try this when I get home. Nice piece of detective work!

Anyone know if this piece of Internet wisdom still valid:

"If the service menu asks for a password, enter 0000 (four zero). If 0000 doesn't work for you, try 7777 or 0413 or 8741 or 8743 or 8878."
0413 worked for my 65E6

Thank you!

Now what to do? lol

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post #16454 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:04 PM
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Not sure if this is much better and there are no lights on in the room - that's all from the TV! I tried covering the stand with a blanket and it actually was brighter. Thanks again for the help!
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post #16455 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:25 PM
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Guys has anyone tried to calibrate your set using something like this?

I don't have any professional know how, but I do want to try and calibrate my set, and I would love to know if anyone has tried, and what tools you have used. If there is a 101 on calibrating displays.

Thanks

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post #16456 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:34 PM
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Originally Posted by i_max2k2 View Post
Guys has anyone tried to calibrate your set using something like this?

I don't have any professional know how, but I do want to try and calibrate my set, and I would love to know if anyone has tried, and what tools you have used. If there is a 101 on calibrating displays.

Thanks
I have calibrated my set, yes.

You need a colorimeter. Either an i1 Display Pro, or a ColorMunki Display, would be the best choices.

You need calibration software. If you go to the calibration forum on this site, you will see a thread for Color HCFR, which is a very good free to use program, that you can download.

You also need a disc with test patterns. You can also get a free AVS disc to download from that same calibration forum.

In that same forum are threads that have links to tutorials and reading materials.

After that, you will also want to check this thread, which is specifically for our OLEDs:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...on-thread.html

Good luck
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post #16457 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
It's a black and white image, so the color indicates a different issue - perhaps the image being displayed in the wrong color space by the TV. I can't make heads or tails of that.
That was displaying the image from my PC. I cannot get the TV to switch into side by side 3D mode when i put it on USB. It just doesn't give me an option and auto selects the "faux" 3D thus the image still looks like it is half black and half white. I have no idea how you guys managed to get it to do it.

Either way, the 3D is completely broken on my set, so i wouldn't be surprised what we are seeing of the color spew is accurate.
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post #16458 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post
I have calibrated my set, yes.

You need a colorimeter. Either an i1 Display Pro, or a ColorMunki Display, would be the best choices.

You need calibration software. If you go to the calibration forum on this site, you will see a thread for Color HCFR, which is a very good free to use program, that you can download.

You also need a disc with test patterns. You can also get a free AVS disc to download from that same calibration forum.

In that same forum are threads that have links to tutorials and reading materials.

After that, you will also want to check this thread, which is specifically for our OLEDs:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-di...on-thread.html

Good luck
Thank you, right after the post I realized I should have checked that sub forum, I did download the AVS disc, and calibrated the TV for black levels and APLs, when I got my e6 a month ago. This is good info, I'll look into getting one of the two xrite's, did you have any preference on one over the other?

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post #16459 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by i_max2k2 View Post
Thank you, right after the post I realized I should have checked that sub forum, I did download the AVS disc, and calibrated the TV for black levels and APLs, when I got my e6 a month ago. This is good info, I'll look into getting one of the two xrite's, did you have any preference on one over the other?
It comes down to price. They are the same meter save for two things:

The i1 comes with extra color software that the ColorMunki doesn't
The i1 takes measures faster than the ColorMunki does.

They are both just about as accurate, but a grayscale run takes like a 1/4 of the time on an i1. That's about the only difference. If those 2 things are worth the extra $100 to you then get the i1.

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post #16460 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by video_analysis View Post
New models won't be here until the spring, so they have to fill the void with the 2016 line. The E6 didn't arrive until March/April 2016.
Correct, we will see when they get the new units out.......
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post #16461 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Pottypotsworth View Post
That was displaying the image from my PC. I cannot get the TV to switch into side by side 3D mode when i put it on USB. It just doesn't give me an option and auto selects the "faux" 3D thus the image still looks like it is half black and half white. I have no idea how you guys managed to get it to do it.

Either way, the 3D is completely broken on my set, so i wouldn't be surprised what we are seeing of the color spew is accurate.
When I checked my C6 for ghosting a few days ago, I used only the 3D Blu-ray iso file that's linked to in that same post as the black and white image. Tonight, I tried to use the B/W jpg with the C6 and it didn't work for me, either. As I now recall, I had a similar problem when I tried to use that jpg on a 2015 OLED, the 9500, at Best Buy months ago. The E6 gives you the option of selecting side by side 3D for a jpg; the C6 doesn't. If you can burn a Blu-ray disc, download the Blu-ray 3D iso file and use it. If you can't, there are some files on YouTube that test for ghosting. IMO, they don't do quite as good a job because they have graphic elements, but they'll work.

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post #16462 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Teknomedic View Post
just got my E6P today... 701 build.

question about 3D.... I tested using PS3 directly connected to TV and Star Was the Force Awakens on BluRay 3D.

what I noticed was what seemed like "crosstalk" bubbles or hot spots.. One at the top about 3/4 of the way across from left and about 7 or so inches long and extending about 3 or 4 inches down. suspect it's bigger, but the black bars block it. The other is lower left edge to about 1 foot across and extending about 8 inches up. They seem wavy or curvy.

I've tried 3 different pairs of glasses (3 different brands) and all have the same effect. If I stand up the top one shrinks and the bottom enlarges... kneel the opposite happens.

all other areas of the screen looked great but those two spots.

anyone what's going on and if there's a fix... I fear needing to call LG on the set I got today.
Fellow newbie, bought from the same place...
After reading your posts started poking around mine, haven't seen those issues with 3D Guardians of the Galaxy that your having, either I got lucky or haven't seen it yet, going to pop in Force and see if still ok, good to know about where we bought from, best to go right to LG if I see an issue.
Also need to run Joseph Clark's test procedures yet, to be sure I'm out of the woods...
For reference, mines on a 17" stand, sitting 13 ft away, eye level dead center, maybe I'm too much in the sweet spot, need to move around like you for testing.....or I'm trying too hard to find a problem.
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post #16463 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Joseph Clark View Post
When I checked my C6 for ghosting a few days ago, I used only the 3D Blu-ray iso file that's linked to in that same post as the black and white image. Tonight, I tried to use the B/W jpg with the C6 and it didn't work for me, either. As I now recall, I had a similar problem when I tried to use that jpg on a 2015 OLED, the 9500, at Best Buy months ago. The E6 gives you the option of selecting side by side 3D for a jpg; the C6 doesn't. If you can burn a Blu-ray disc, download the Blu-ray 3D iso file and use it. If you can't, there are some files on YouTube that test for ghosting. IMO, they don't do quite as good a job because they have graphic elements, but they'll work.
Thanks for the reply, i don't actually have a blu-ray burner but I can play the ISO you posted direct on my PC. However that doesn't kick into 3D mode and side by side 3D doesn't get it do display properly. On the way the TV tries to display the photo, my model is actually an E6 on the latest firmware and it'll just not allow me to set set by side on a photo.

Here is something interesting though, I had the LG tech come back today because the 3D is so obviously broken, he called his supervisor and i am unsure how true this is or if LG are trying to cover their tracks for a shoddy panel install but he said this panel "had no 3D module, 3D is not installed and will need to be replaced with a 3D version". How the hell are LG installing replacement E6 panels without 3D? :/

Either way, they are coming back next week for my second panel install... 3rd time lucky.
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post #16464 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 09:09 PM
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How the hell are LG installing replacement E6 panels without 3D? :/
My guess is it's from a same sized set that doesn't support 3D. Aside from 3D, I've been led to believe all the panels are the same, regardless of model.
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post #16465 of 22043 Old 02-16-2017, 09:36 PM
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My guess is it's from a same sized set that doesn't support 3D. Aside from 3D, I've been led to believe all the panels are the same, regardless of model.
I guess it depends on what the definition of 'panel' is, since the B6 panel comes without 3D and is bonded to a honeycombed piece of aluminum, while the E6 has 3D and the OLED module is bonded to a piece of lucite/glass. The B6 panel is thicker than the E6, even when factoring in the glass back.

Since I have both a 65B6 and 65E6, I've seen variances in the way each panel handles content, but that could be due to the SoC or other tuning differences (or just variances from panel to panel.) The E6 also has more of a 'sweet spot' for color reproduction, whereas the B6 looks more uniform. For example, in the "Pole to Pole" ep of Planet Earth, an all-white screen looks completely uniform on the B6, but on the E6 there's a bluish color shift on each side with a warmer white in the middle.

While the RTINGS review of the B6 shows a slight brightness advantage over the E6, perhaps other factors are at play in the actual panel that make them look different when compared.
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post #16466 of 22043 Old 02-17-2017, 02:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Pottypotsworth View Post
Thanks for the reply, i don't actually have a blu-ray burner but I can play the ISO you posted direct on my PC. However that doesn't kick into 3D mode and side by side 3D doesn't get it do display properly. On the way the TV tries to display the photo, my model is actually an E6 on the latest firmware and it'll just not allow me to set set by side on a photo.

Here is something interesting though, I had the LG tech come back today because the 3D is so obviously broken, he called his supervisor and i am unsure how true this is or if LG are trying to cover their tracks for a shoddy panel install but he said this panel "had no 3D module, 3D is not installed and will need to be replaced with a 3D version". How the hell are LG installing replacement E6 panels without 3D? :/

Either way, they are coming back next week for my second panel install... 3rd time lucky.
That sounds dodgy. At least they're swapping the panel. Let's see what happens. Hope your patience pays off!

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post #16467 of 22043 Old 02-17-2017, 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Teknomedic View Post
thank you.... although the side by side black and white test only confirmed what I was trying to describe sadly... the bright white areas are obviously my cross talk hot spots. I was dead center up down and left and right for the photo. moving around only makes the dark "wave" slide up or down the screen.



so.. .. I Assume the prognosis isn't good, lmao

I do have Dredd and can test for you, but with my 3D being messed up I assume I should get that fixed first.

Also, I do see ghosting on the text in the main menu of Star Wars. I previously owned a Sony 75x940d and had the same issue. I could test on my 55" LG LCD, but I assume the same will happen with that set too. Part of me thinks they were trying to do a "pushed out" 3D menu with a noticeable "shadow" behind the letters... the other part of me says they simply messed up the menus, ha
So your picture got me curious and I tried it on my E6.
And guess what: looks exactly the same. But once I moved a little back and tilted the display up it was perfect. Try adjusting the tilt a bit and it might just be OK.

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post #16468 of 22043 Old 02-17-2017, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post
It comes down to price. They are the same meter save for two things:

The i1 comes with extra color software that the ColorMunki doesn't
The i1 takes measures faster than the ColorMunki does.

They are both just about as accurate, but a grayscale run takes like a 1/4 of the time on an i1. That's about the only difference. If those 2 things are worth the extra $100 to you then get the i1.
Thank you, seems like the hardware is similar, so I'll stick to the Colormunki for my amateur needs.

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post #16469 of 22043 Old 02-18-2017, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by TinyRK View Post
So your picture got me curious and I tried it on my E6.
And guess what: looks exactly the same. But once I moved a little back and tilted the display up it was perfect. Try adjusting the tilt a bit and it might just be OK.
Im curious as to how you got your E6 to correctly display the picture in side-by-side 3D? Ehen trying on my E6 there is no 3D display options, it just simply switches from 3D off to "Faux" 3D and back again.

Thanks
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post #16470 of 22043 Old 02-18-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Pottypotsworth View Post
Im curious as to how you got your E6 to correctly display the picture in side-by-side 3D? Ehen trying on my E6 there is no 3D display options, it just simply switches from 3D off to "Faux" 3D and back again.

Thanks
I used Joseph Clark's test procedure to align the e6 with where I sit so I have minimal crosstalk. He ezplained in his post what to do.
That's all I did and it obviously is faux 3d. The black and white in 3d display crosstalk . If it's all black looking through the 3d glasses you're good. If some of the screen is still white adjustments your seating position .

Not that I use 3d much, but I have high hopes LG put on the 3d filter correctly and thus use it as a tool for the "sweet spot adjustments ".

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Last edited by TinyRK; 02-18-2017 at 06:23 AM.
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