2016 LG OLED 65G6P and 65E6P Owners Thread - Page 551 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16501 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueChris View Post
I am not really sure that reset the service menu changes.

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I did that option on one of my defective 9500's last year. It reset everything in the SM as to if it was brand new. I took pictures before and after. Everything was the same except the timers reset to zero. It kept the most recent FW at that time.
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post #16502 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
On the Service Remote, there is an exit button. if you make changes and then hit exit it will save the changes. If you don't make any adjustments and hit the exit button, then there will be no changes made. So it's best to always take a picture of the screen before making any adjustments, because once you make the change and hit exit, it will stick, until you change it back. As far as the In Stop button, it does a factory reset to default. So if you made changes, and screwed up, that is your nuclear option, it will reset tv to as if it was brand new, including timers for compensation, hours on tv, etc. The FW will remain current though.
Thanks. Any idea what "Q.Menu" is?

I don't like pushing buttons without knowing what they do...
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post #16503 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
Thanks. Any idea what "Q.Menu" is?

I don't like pushing buttons without knowing what they do...
I have no idea what that button is.

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post #16504 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 12:48 PM
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After a good bit of time, I can't use anything other than DJ 0 DB 10, which seems to work OK and is better than TM off to my eyes. DJ 1 improves further, but I can't unsee the artifacts it creates in moving objects on 60hz and 24hz.
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post #16505 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
If you have a Harmony remote, it's simple to access the service menu... Just create a new device using an LG 47LE5300-UC as the device model. This will give you the buttons to access the service menu. I just tested with my Harmony 700 and it seems to work fine (I got the password prompt after selecting the EZ-ADJ button. I didn't continue at that point though (after recently bricking a brand new 2-in-1 tablet while playing around, I don't want to mess with it since there is nothing in there that I need to change). :-) I don't need to accidentally change a setting and break anything. :-)


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I hit the EZ-ADJUST Button and enter 0413 and I'm successful in getting into the service menu. However, once in there, I select each option listed as 1 through 15 (in the OP of this thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...g-oled-tv.html it is listed from 0 to 14, not sure if that makes a difference) and I do not see anything that says TPC. Once in the service menu, which option do you click to find it?

Have you or anyone been able to get this to work, or are there different options for service menus depending on the remote?

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post #16506 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 12:53 PM
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gadgtfreek,

DB > 0 also exhibits artifacts. See the swinging hammock test on Spears & Munsil v2. Quite frankly, neither of these TruMotion functions is worth the bother.

I've ended up using TruMotion User with both de-Blur and de-Judder set to 0. This has the visual effect of TruMotion OFF but also causes the E6 to use the same amount of processing time for both 4K/24 input and 4K/60 input, so I only need one audio delay setting in my source devices.
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post #16507 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 01:05 PM
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I'm not noticing anything negative with DB 10 in live content, but I do see an improvement in side pans so Ill probably keep using it. DJ 1 does some funky things for sure. Those jerky side pans really bug the heck out of me.

It's odd, DB 10 and DJ 2 worked great on EF9500 with 24hz, but they pretty much made DJ unusable for me on the 2016 model.
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post #16508 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 01:06 PM
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It's set to 0.
Thank you Wxman,0 for the Tuner setup?
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post #16509 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post
I hit the EZ-ADJUST Button and enter 0413 and I'm successful in getting into the service menu. However, once in there, I select each option listed as 1 through 15 (in the OP of this thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ole...g-oled-tv.html it is listed from 0 to 14, not sure if that makes a difference) and I do not see anything that says TPC. Once in the service menu, which option do you click to find it?

Have you or anyone been able to get this to work, or are there different options for service menus depending on the remote?
I replied to your other post. TPC is not under the ez adjust menu but under the IN-START menu. From there, get to 13. OLED. Use right arrow, find TPC enable and change it to off. Exit out. Done.
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post #16510 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
I'm not noticing anything negative with DB 10 in live content, but I do see an improvement in side pans so Ill probably keep using it. DJ 1 does some funky things for sure. Those jerky side pans really bug the heck out of me.

It's odd, DB 10 and DJ 2 worked great on EF9500 with 24hz, but they pretty much made DJ unusable for me on the 2016 model.
Yeah, I'm sticking with DJ 0, DB 10. I've tried various other combinations and sometimes they work but overall this combo is the best of the bunch for my blu Rays and UHD content. Works OK for streaming too. I'm pleased at this point with motion. It's NOT like my KURO was and certainly not a strong point for OLED but it's decent enough that I'm content with it.

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post #16511 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 02:05 PM
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The juddery intro of Xmen Apocalypse with the panning across the desert drove me bat****e with 0/10, so I had to up it to 1 to make it a little smoother. Luckily, I don't notice the artifacts it creates unless I'm watching 3D (where I keep dejudder at 0) where the parallax effect likely magnifies the issue.
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post #16512 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by RoadLizard View Post
I replied to your other post. TPC is not under the ez adjust menu but under the IN-START menu. From there, get to 13. OLED. Use right arrow, find TPC enable and change it to off. Exit out. Done.
Thanks. jtrosky had said EZ-ADJUST in his post, so I thought that was it.

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post #16513 of 22057 Old 02-19-2017, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Stuntman_Mike View Post
Thanks. jtrosky had said EZ-ADJUST in his post, so I thought that was it.
No problem, hope it helped!

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post #16514 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 12:46 AM
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To those of you talking about John Wick UHD a few days ago - THANKS! I did not know they released a UHD version of that. The regular Blu Ray was delicious eye candy on an OLED in it's own right, and I love the movie. Think I'll have to double dip.


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Thank you, seems like the hardware is similar, so I'll stick to the Colormunki for my amateur needs.
I've had good luck using the Colormunki and HCFR to calibrate both my previous EF9500 and my E6. Cheap way to dip your toes into the calibrating world with pretty good results to boot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
I'm not noticing anything negative with DB 10 in live content, but I do see an improvement in side pans so Ill probably keep using it. DJ 1 does some funky things for sure. Those jerky side pans really bug the heck out of me.

It's odd, DB 10 and DJ 2 worked great on EF9500 with 24hz, but they pretty much made DJ unusable for me on the 2016 model.
Yeah I went through the exact same process as you and ended up on the same final settings coming from my EF. Was hoping to make DJ 1-3 work, but nope. Weird stuff happens even on DJ 1. I've also found no issues using DB 10.
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post #16515 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 08:04 AM
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Thanks. Any idea what "Q.Menu" is?

I don't like pushing buttons without knowing what they do...
I agree, you do push a button when you are not sure what it will do, especially in the service menu !!
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post #16516 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 09:01 AM
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post #16517 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 03:08 PM
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Caught up on a couple of episodes of Supernatural today, it's one that usually shows some near black noise/blocks. E6 handles it very well, clean image that looks gorgeous with high contrast.

Blacklist and Homeland are two others that were problematic, will be curious to see what they look like. Game of Thrones should be much better now too.

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post #16518 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 04:58 PM
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Do you really expect people to click on something with no description and no frame of reference, just a single URL in a post?
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post #16519 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Teknomedic View Post
Do you really expect people to click on something with no description and no frame of reference, just a single URL in a post?
Its a reference to the button pushing... It's a gif... Click or don't... Think I've been around long enough with a strong posting history to counter anyone being worried.

If I really cared about someone clicking... I'd have tried harder... But.... I didn't.. And still don't.
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post #16520 of 22057 Old 02-20-2017, 06:21 PM
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New E6 owner here! Got it a few days ago from the Echo and Optics ebay deal. When I saw that the 7 series was dropping 3D I knew I'd be getting a C6 or E6. The curve kept me undecided for a long time and once the E6 deal was live I pulled the trigger.

I started with the PQ settings on rtings.com then used my Disney WOW blu-ray to calibrate in the dark. 4K and 1080p content look great. Some cable TV content, not so much. I've already manually updated to the newest firmware, and run a couple of "clear panel noise" cycles. I feel like I might have some black crush, but one tick higher on brightness and I can clearly see the black bars on widescreen movies turn to grey. Is there another way to overcome that? Any other general advice?

Question: I forgot to take off that clear plastic film on the back before I wall mounted it and turned it on. Then, I peeled it off while the TV was on. The screen blinked a few times... PQ seems fine but did I mess something up? I wish I had left it on, but I also don't know what the film does or doesn't do. I searched a lot but only saw other people asking about taking off, not what purpose it serves.

My next project is going to be remounting the set. I'm using the same bracket I had before this set and of course my TV is sitting up much higher than before. I am torn between moving the existing one down the wall or getting the mount LG makes so I get closer to the wall.

Happy to be part of the club!
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post #16521 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 02:17 AM
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Originally Posted by pezcore View Post
New E6 owner here! Got it a few days ago from the Echo and Optics ebay deal. When I saw that the 7 series was dropping 3D I knew I'd be getting a C6 or E6. The curve kept me undecided for a long time and once the E6 deal was live I pulled the trigger.

I started with the PQ settings on rtings.com then used my Disney WOW blu-ray to calibrate in the dark. 4K and 1080p content look great. Some cable TV content, not so much. I've already manually updated to the newest firmware, and run a couple of "clear panel noise" cycles. I feel like I might have some black crush, but one tick higher on brightness and I can clearly see the black bars on widescreen movies turn to grey. Is there another way to overcome that? Any other general advice?

Question: I forgot to take off that clear plastic film on the back before I wall mounted it and turned it on. Then, I peeled it off while the TV was on. The screen blinked a few times... PQ seems fine but did I mess something up? I wish I had left it on, but I also don't know what the film does or doesn't do. I searched a lot but only saw other people asking about taking off, not what purpose it serves.

My next project is going to be remounting the set. I'm using the same bracket I had before this set and of course my TV is sitting up much higher than before. I am torn between moving the existing one down the wall or getting the mount LG makes so I get closer to the wall.

Happy to be part of the club!
I'm sure you didn't hurt anything taking off the plastic. It's supposed to come off so it's good you did remove it. As for getting rid of crush and keeping inky blacks, check the "how to enhance near black detail" thread here and the first few pages help out a lot. It's fairly easy to get it dialed in. Basically you'll be making 20 point white balance adjustments to the luminance values starting at IRE 5. You'll see what I mean when you venture in there. Check the last few pages too, plenty of info on those pages as well.

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post #16522 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 09:47 AM
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Well, I had to return my G6P.

When I called LG and explained what I was seeing, he said "It sounds like burn-in. Send me some pics before I send someone out". When I sent the pics, he called back and said "That is burn-in, and that's not covered by the warranty." For point of reference, when I talked to him the first time, I asked how much a new panel was, if it is not covered under warranty. He said the cost was ~$3200. Yikes! That's more than what I paid for the TV!

I took it back to hhgregg and showed them the problem. I ended up getting the 65E6P for the same price, but only if I stayed with the extended warranty I had originally purchased.

So if anyone in the Greater Cincinnati area wants to take a shot, it's at the Florence store (or was on Sunday).

The overall quality on the G6P was nicer (all electronics in the metal base, nice and solid, vs all electronics in the lower ~10in along the back of the set). The picture looks the same, although I was a little scared initially. I had set TruMotion from Clear to Off before we watched anything and we said it looked like it was missing something. We watched the first scene of ST:Into Darkness and saw it was definitely not as good as on the G6. But when I turned TruMotion back to Clear, what a difference. THEN it looked like what we recalled from the G6.

The B&W ghosting test pattern on the G6 was incredibly uniform. I only started to see some white blotches when standing off to the side. On the E6, I see some in the upper right, and a little in the lower right, so I hope I can adjust it.

I miss the G6, but I could not handle the burn-in. It was like having the fastest car in the world, but if you went to fast, the car would shake. No sense having the best if it isn't.
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post #16523 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:11 PM
 
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Have zero burn in on my G6 but i did run it in before using it n still take full screen content breaks on letterbar Movies.
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post #16524 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:15 PM
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Have zero burn in on my G6 but i did run it in before using it n still take full screen content breaks on letterbar Movies.

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post #16525 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:24 PM
 
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Lol i pause the movie half time n switch to a USB i got plugged in with loads of 4k content on it works like a charm so far
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post #16526 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pezcore View Post

Question: I forgot to take off that clear plastic film on the back before I wall mounted it and turned it on. Then, I peeled it off while the TV was on. The screen blinked a few times... PQ seems fine but did I mess something up? I wish I had left it on, but I also don't know what the film does or doesn't do. I searched a lot but only saw other people asking about taking off, not what purpose it serves.



Happy to be part of the club!
I'm guessing you had some static discharge from that crap. Not sure why they put this stuff on electronics. Sounds like you got lucky and none of the electronics got zapped bad enough to kill it. Or maybe you bumped the hdmi cable enough to lose signal?
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post #16527 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed_H View Post
Well, I had to return my G6P.

When I called LG and explained what I was seeing, he said "It sounds like burn-in. Send me some pics before I send someone out". When I sent the pics, he called back and said "That is burn-in, and that's not covered by the warranty." For point of reference, when I talked to him the first time, I asked how much a new panel was, if it is not covered under warranty. He said the cost was ~$3200. Yikes! That's more than what I paid for the TV!

I took it back to hhgregg and showed them the problem. I ended up getting the 65E6P for the same price, but only if I stayed with the extended warranty I had originally purchased.

So if anyone in the Greater Cincinnati area wants to take a shot, it's at the Florence store (or was on Sunday).

The overall quality on the G6P was nicer (all electronics in the metal base, nice and solid, vs all electronics in the lower ~10in along the back of the set). The picture looks the same, although I was a little scared initially. I had set TruMotion from Clear to Off before we watched anything and we said it looked like it was missing something. We watched the first scene of ST:Into Darkness and saw it was definitely not as good as on the G6. But when I turned TruMotion back to Clear, what a difference. THEN it looked like what we recalled from the G6.

The B&W ghosting test pattern on the G6 was incredibly uniform. I only started to see some white blotches when standing off to the side. On the E6, I see some in the upper right, and a little in the lower right, so I hope I can adjust it.

I miss the G6, but I could not handle the burn-in. It was like having the fastest car in the world, but if you went to fast, the car would shake. No sense having the best if it isn't.
So that is you and i both (me with an E6) with burn-in on OLEDs that aren't supposed to be able to be burnt-in. Could i ask you what was burned in, and do you happen to remember your OLED, Contrast, and Brightness settings? I am wondering if it's going to be a yellow logo, or something yellow that got burnt in?
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post #16528 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:57 PM
 
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Havent posted slides of my G6 here but this is How it looks now
Taken with a iPhone 5s (my work phone im stuck with)



No vignetting no Banding cam adds a Odd tint i see i dont have

Last edited by vaktmestern; 02-21-2017 at 01:01 PM.
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post #16529 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by video_analysis View Post
The juddery intro of Xmen Apocalypse with the panning across the desert drove me bat****e with 0/10, so I had to up it to 1 to make it a little smoother. Luckily, I don't notice the artifacts it creates unless I'm watching 3D (where I keep dejudder at 0) where the parallax effect likely magnifies the issue.
Yes! I made the exact same settings change last night when that scene came up while watching my new UHD copy of Apocalypse. I'll have to see if I notice artifacts the next time I'm watching 3D. If so, I'll know what to adjust.

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post #16530 of 22057 Old 02-21-2017, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pottypotsworth View Post
So that is you and i both (me with an E6) with burn-in on OLEDs that aren't supposed to be able to be burnt-in. Could i ask you what was burned in, and do you happen to remember your OLED, Contrast, and Brightness settings? I am wondering if it's going to be a yellow logo, or something yellow that got burnt in?
No one has ever stated that an OLED can not have burn in. Any display, including LCD CAN get burn in. Burn in on OLED is just not something that occurs for the overwhelming majority of owners.

In the case of that poster's G6, he bought a display model from a brick and mortar. Display OLEDs are at a much higher risk for burn in, due to the nature of how they are used, and the fact that many store cut the power bank of the TVs off when it's time to close shop, which would prevent an OLED from doing its comp cycle, ever.

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