2016 LG OLED 65G6P and 65E6P Owners Thread - Page 574 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #17191 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 11:18 AM
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maybe someone can answer this question for PLEASE? In the back of the panel at the bottom on an E6 the red light that you see if look from the side is the compensation cycle light, right? i noticed that the picture looked a little darker than usual so I looked behind the tv and the compensation cycle light was stuck on. Has anybody ever interrupted a routine compensation cycle that is automatically done ever 4hours? reason why i am asking is because the light has not gone off. I went into the section panel noise and started a manual compensation cycle so maybe the cycle will run it cause and then shut off. This i s not the first time I have seem the red light on in the back when the tv was on. Is this normal? And if this has ever happened to someone else do you remember if the picture seemed darker then usual?

thanks,

dave
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post #17192 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougDingle View Post
CEC/ARC is the wild west of incompatibility. It works for some components, not for others. Or it sort of works sometimes. Or it doesn't work at all. Lots and lots of threads all over AVSFORUM about how bad it is. In general, it seems to work best if all the components connected come from the same manufacturer, a pretty rare occurrence.

Like many, I just gave up and use a programmable Harmony remote (I use the inexpensive 700 model) to do what I need to accomplish. It takes a while to program, but once it's done, it just works. Admittedly, I keep all the original remotes handy in case I need to do something esoteric quickly, but I'd say somewhere around 90% of the time, I use the Harmony for almost everything, and that works fine.
agreed just want to see if anyone else had my receiver and had any success.

My Sony worked great although, I had a period of time with my receiver in the shop and when I got it back nothing would work with cec. Kept mucking around and it eventually worked again but got no idea what caused it to start working again.

Would be nice if lg had some extra details somewhere. On the Sony tv , it had a device list in settings so you could see what items it thought was connected so when it was working, I saw the nad receiver in the device list and it was misnamed when it did not work.

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post #17193 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-T View Post
maybe someone can answer this question for PLEASE? In the back of the panel at the bottom on an E6 the red light that you see if look from the side is the compensation cycle light, right? i noticed that the picture looked a little darker than usual so I looked behind the tv and the compensation cycle light was stuck on. Has anybody ever interrupted a routine compensation cycle that is automatically done ever 4hours? reason why i am asking is because the light has not gone off. I went into the section panel noise and started a manual compensation cycle so maybe the cycle will run it cause and then shut off. This i s not the first time I have seem the red light on in the back when the tv was on. Is this normal? And if this has ever happened to someone else do you remember if the picture seemed darker then usual?

thanks,

dave

The red light should just be the optical port. It isn't really a comp cycle indicator, it just happens to be a way that people have found to see that the panel is in fact running a compensation cycle. When TV is on, the light will always be on.


No harm in interrupting a compensation cycle, TV will continue the cycle next time you turn your TV off.
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post #17194 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jmanthey View Post
Yes, but most people are conditioned to think that a photo represents reality and they will expect to see bands like this just looking at a uniform field (no panning). For those who are trying to decide whether a purchase like this is"worth it", they will be scared off by these pictures when it's entirely possible they will never see the problem. In that sense I think these overexposed photos taken on auto do a disservice to the general community. I understand that you are not the "general community" and are after a level of perfection that doesn't yet exist, but in my opinion most purchasers of OLED are not likely to share all your concerns. Perhaps showing a photo at an actual 5% lightness along with the overexposed one would help.
I'll look into that, but it would still take guesswork on what to use for exposure settings, ISO, etc. I'll naturally provide updates over time for comparison's sake. My expectations are simply a backplane that is as clean (or nearly so) as plasma in its heyday, where I don't see vertical streaks running through horizontal camera pans.

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You need a big time pro do get a real good picture of a TV's picture quality.....
If that were the only standard relied upon, few to no pictures would be taken or shared, and you'd have to take everyone's word about screen uniformity (I certainly take it all with a fine grain, and of course the photos showing good/better uniformity might be obscuring details as well).
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post #17195 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
In the article, David did make an exception for the E6

"People sensitive to blurring will likely want a setting with better motion resolution, but unlike the B6, the E6 requires a compromise. At a User setting of zero for De-Judder and 10 for De-Blur, the B6 delivered maximum motion resolution (600 lines) and correct film cadence. But in the same settings the E6 showed an overly juddery effect reminiscent of 2/3 pull-down. The rest of the settings (with the exception of Off) introduced some form of smoothing, or soap opera effect, and none bested that resolution. If you're watching a film-based source on the E6, you should choose Off or De-Judder: 1 (which introduces minimal smoothing)."

So in his review, TM should be off on the E6.
If you use a test pattern, you can see what he is talking about. With side scrolling patterns, going from Off to DB 10 cleans things up a little, but there is a small hitching that shows up. I find in content, regardless, DB 10 is still better than off. The hitching clears up with DB 10 and DJ 1, but then you can get some artifacts that that are obvious.

So, in reality:

Off = poorest motion the set has
DJ 0 DB 10 is an improvement in motion resolution for sure
DJ 1 DB 10 is the best, BUT, now you have can have some obvious artifacts

As stated by Buzz, and other calibrators, DB 10 is an obvious choice, but for those people used to an LCD with 300 lines it probably no big deal. The people saying TM off is just as good as their plasma was are nuts, not sensitive to motion or forgot what their plasma looked like.

This was the same on the 2015 models, only difference was DJ 1 and 2 did not artifact like they do now. People need to stop trying to invent the wheel every year with these settings, the history of the settings are already out there.
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post #17196 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt310 View Post
Man, the Sony XBR46-HX929 is a beautiful set, both on and off. I'd hold onto that sucker because you'll never get what it's worth. Beautiful design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Tomaskovic View Post
Replacing my 55hx929 with an 65E6, arriving tomorrow. Wish I could put the Sony in my bedroom to replace a 32" Samsung, but just too big for the wall opposite from my bed hmm. Maybe I don't need that door to the bathroom! Guess my nephew wins this one since he will get the 929.

I hear you guys about the 929. It's a top notch TV and the main reason I put up with her nagging for so long. Luckily, I have a place to store it.
But if I had to replace it, an E6 OLED fills the bill pretty nicely.
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post #17197 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JNayAV View Post
The red light should just be the optical port. It isn't really a comp cycle indicator, it just happens to be a way that people have found to see that the panel is in fact running a compensation cycle. When TV is on, the light will always be on.


No harm in interrupting a compensation cycle, TV will continue the cycle next time you turn your TV off.
Thank you
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post #17198 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gadgtfreek View Post
If you use a test pattern, you can see what he is talking about. With side scrolling patterns, going from Off to DB 10 cleans things up a little, but there is a small hitching that shows up. I find in content, regardless, DB 10 is still better than off. The hitching clears up with DB 10 and DJ 1, but then you can get some artifacts that that are obvious.

So, in reality:

Off = poorest motion the set has
DJ 0 DB 10 is an improvement in motion resolution for sure
DJ 1 DB 10 is the best, BUT, now you have can have some obvious artifacts

As stated by Buzz, and other calibrators, DB 10 is an obvious choice, but for those people used to an LCD with 300 lines it probably no big deal. The people saying TM off is just as good as their plasma was are nuts, not sensitive to motion or forgot what their plasma looked like.

This was the same on the 2015 models, only difference was DJ 1 and 2 did not artifact like they do now. People need to stop trying to invent the wheel every year with these settings, the history of the settings are already out there.
i agree I've tried every setting and always seem to come back to 1 and 10
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post #17199 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by con5179 View Post
I saw the pics. Mine isn't that bad. I do have the jail bar effect going on and some slight vignetting on the side edges/corners. . If I go a couple inches away from the screen to examine pixels I do see some are stuck flashing a color they aren't supposed to but it doesn't affect the picture at all. The picture is amazing however for 20k the jail bar/screen uniformity should be much better. Again none of this bugs me at all while watching content however because my eyes are trained to notice the jail bars I could see them if I choose to not focus on the content and focus on the bars. To see one you would have to let go of the other so I just choose to focus on the content I'm watching.
Con5179 emailed me the photos he took of his screen (~1000 hours) to share in the interest of disclosure, so we finally have a couple of beasts to compare (and it gives me hope for improvement as time marches on). It also has the inverse vignette. Gonna' try to relax, but it will take every fiber of my being:
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post #17200 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 07:16 PM
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Can somebody please who has an e6 check something out for me? I just noticed when I was changing my white balance values on ISF Dark Room with the target luminance number ( ex. ire 100 Target Luminance 130, ire 95 target luminance 130) target luminance never changes. So then I went to ISF Bright Room and the luminance change Dark Room, should target luminance change with ire? gamma is set to BT1886 for ISF Dark Room and gamma is set to 2.2 for ISF Bright Room.

thanks

dave

Last edited by Dave-T; 03-20-2017 at 07:40 PM.
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post #17201 of 21997 Old 03-20-2017, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-T View Post
Can somebody please who has an e6 check something out for me? I just noticed when I was changing my white balance values on ISF Dark Room with the target luminance number ( ex. ire 100 Target Luminance 130, ire 95 target luminance 130) target luminance never changes. So then I went to ISF Bright Room and the luminance change Dark Room, should target luminance change with ire? gamma is set to BT1886 for ISF Dark Room and gamma is set to 2.2 for ISF Bright Room.

thanks

dave
It's the same on my E6 with gamma 1886. It remains at 130. 2.2 and 2.4 change values depending on the IRE.

LG 65E6P OLED - LG 65EF9500 OLED - OPPO 203 - OPPO 103D
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post #17202 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 12:47 AM
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Sent this to Oppo support but thought I'd share here.

I have another issue...
I have the Oppo hdmi main going to the tv input (not the arc). Hdmi audio port goes to the receiver. I was told to set the hdmi ultra hd deep color to ON for that hdmi input in order to get hdr. With it OFF, when I display the info received on the tv, no hdr is indicated.

So if I have deep color set to on, when I play a cd or plain bluray, no video is played. I have hdr set to auto on the Oppo settings.

Am I missing a setting on the Oppo so I can leave deep color enabled on the tv and still play CDs and regular blurays?

Also note that turning deep color on/off on the tv requires a restart of the tv, so it's not the a trivial setting to change on the fly when needed. Especially if the power cec setting is enabled on the tv since it then powers the receiver and Oppo off!

Phil Tomaskovic
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post #17203 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 05:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wxman View Post
It's the same on my E6 with gamma 1886. It remains at 130. 2.2 and 2.4 change values depending on the IRE.
Thanks. Something seems different with my tv for some reason , everything seems darker than normal.
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post #17204 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 05:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil Tomaskovic View Post
Sent this to Oppo support but thought I'd share here.

I have another issue...
I have the Oppo hdmi main going to the tv input (not the arc). Hdmi audio port goes to the receiver. I was told to set the hdmi ultra hd deep color to ON for that hdmi input in order to get hdr. With it OFF, when I display the info received on the tv, no hdr is indicated.

So if I have deep color set to on, when I play a cd or plain bluray, no video is played. I have hdr set to auto on the Oppo settings.

Am I missing a setting on the Oppo so I can leave deep color enabled on the tv and still play CDs and regular blurays?

Also note that turning deep color on/off on the tv requires a restart of the tv, so it's not the a trivial setting to change on the fly when needed. Especially if the power cec setting is enabled on the tv since it then powers the receiver and Oppo off!
I have a 203 and E6 connected to a marantz 8802a via one HDMI cable from the tv to the marantz and one cable from the 8802a to the203. I do not have your problem. I keep HDMI ULTRA HD COLOR on all thee time!
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post #17205 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by ti-triodes View Post
I hear you guys about the 929. It's a top notch TV and the main reason I put up with her nagging for so long. Luckily, I have a place to store it.
But if I had to replace it, an E6 OLED fills the bill pretty nicely.
In the 55" class that is your only option otherwise you will be getting an edge lit tv or a hybrid type tv which will not compare to OLED tech........
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Originally Posted by wxman View Post
Watched Creed on blu ray last night. Perfect for OLED. I would label it as a reference blu ray as far as picture quality. The scene were both fighters entered the arena was made for OLED. The perfect black background as the fighters emerged was impressive.
Seconded.
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Small number of critical settings for beginner

I have seen calibrations that change almost every setting on the E6 and many are different. For a new owner are there recommendations for a small number of critical settings that you would recommend. As an example I read to make sure you have Deep Color "on" and HDR Vivid.
Thanks.
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post #17208 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Phil Tomaskovic View Post
Sent this to Oppo support but thought I'd share here.

I have another issue...
I have the Oppo hdmi main going to the tv input (not the arc). Hdmi audio port goes to the receiver. I was told to set the hdmi ultra hd deep color to ON for that hdmi input in order to get hdr. With it OFF, when I display the info received on the tv, no hdr is indicated.

So if I have deep color set to on, when I play a cd or plain bluray, no video is played. I have hdr set to auto on the Oppo settings.

Am I missing a setting on the Oppo so I can leave deep color enabled on the tv and still play CDs and regular blurays?

Also note that turning deep color on/off on the tv requires a restart of the tv, so it's not the a trivial setting to change on the fly when needed. Especially if the power cec setting is enabled on the tv since it then powers the receiver and Oppo off!
Yes you can leave HDMI UltraHD Deep Color enabled for everything you play from the OPPO 203 into the E6. I do that all the time.

Odds are this is simply a matter that your HDMI cables are not able to carry the higher bandwidth signals reliably, most likely because you are trying to send 4K/60 4:4:4 to the display. Try this: In the OPPO, set Custom > UHD Auto, Color Space 4:2:2, Color Depth Auto, and see if that gets you going.

In the meantime, look to upgrade your HDMI cables. Buy cables labeled HDMI Ultra HD Premium Certified. They don't have to be expensive. Monoprice, for example has reasonably priced cables like that. With good cables, you should be able to send anything the E6 will accept.
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post #17209 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
Yes you can leave HDMI UltraHD Deep Color enabled for everything you play from the OPPO 203 into the E6. I do that all the time.

Odds are this is simply a matter that your HDMI cables are not able to carry the higher bandwidth signals reliably, most likely because you are trying to send 4K/60 4:4:4 to the display. Try this: In the OPPO, set Custom > UHD Auto, Color Space 4:2:2, Color Depth Auto, and see if that gets you going.

In the meantime, look to upgrade your HDMI cables. Buy cables labeled HDMI Ultra HD Premium Certified. They don't have to be expensive. Monoprice, for example has reasonably priced cables like that. With good cables, you should be able to send anything the E6 will accept.
--Bob
Just to further clarify, when you set the player to 4K/60 4:4:4, the higher bandwidth Bob is talking about is a jump from about 10-12 GPS to 18 GPS and he's right, if your cables don't support it or it's marginal, then you will have a problem.

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post #17210 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Pariseau View Post
Yes you can leave HDMI UltraHD Deep Color enabled for everything you play from the OPPO 203 into the E6. I do that all the time.

Odds are this is simply a matter that your HDMI cables are not able to carry the higher bandwidth signals reliably, most likely because you are trying to send 4K/60 4:4:4 to the display. Try this: In the OPPO, set Custom > UHD Auto, Color Space 4:2:2, Color Depth Auto, and see if that gets you going.

In the meantime, look to upgrade your HDMI cables. Buy cables labeled HDMI Ultra HD Premium Certified. They don't have to be expensive. Monoprice, for example has reasonably priced cables like that. With good cables, you should be able to send anything the E6 will accept.
--Bob
I'm using the monprice slim high speed active cables.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2

I'll try the Oppo provided cable and see what happens too.

Phil Tomaskovic

Last edited by Phil Tomaskovic; 03-21-2017 at 09:36 AM.
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Originally Posted by Phil Tomaskovic View Post
I'm using the monprice slim high speed active cables.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_...seq=1&format=2

I'll try the Oppo provided cable and see what happens too.
I had to replace those with certified Blue Jeans hdmi cables. Much better now.
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But it seems strange to me why with deep color on, I'm able to play the 4k bluray with the cable I'm using but I can't display a regular bluray or just the info displayed with a music cd. It would seem that they would be using much less bandwidth. The description for deep color in the lg settings menu seems to imply that with it enabled that non deep color video may not display properly?

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post #17213 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 10:43 AM
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Whites in Subtitle and TV menu glows too bright

Hello All. I've been a 65E6P owner for just few days. Great tv.

I'm having problem with Netflix DV contents that whatever I do I can't seem to stop white colors in tv menus and subtitles to glow. They are really too bright! Picture quality is great, contrast seems fine, but only the menu and subtitle is too bright.

I can change OLED light, contrast, brightness to 0 and even though picture is all darkened to the point where i dont see anything, white still glows the same.

Please help.
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post #17214 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 10:53 AM
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No way to stop that to my knowledge.


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post #17215 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:00 AM
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Unhappy

I have the same issue. My wife insists on having subtitles on so that she doesn't miss even a word of the dialog but I find that the overtly bright white text ruins the picture for me. Wish there was a way to get yellow subtitles instead.
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post #17216 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:07 AM
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I had to replace those with certified Blue Jeans hdmi cables. Much better now.
You have BJC Series-FE Belden Bonded-Pair HDMI Cable ?

Phil Tomaskovic
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post #17217 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:09 AM
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Is anyone else seeing more pixels die with use? When I first got my 65e6 I ran the slides and noticed maybe 1 or 2 dead pixels for each color. I did another check tonight (because my 45 day return period ends tomorrow), and now I'm seeing between 4-8 for each color. Now not all are unique - e.g., many of the pixels may be dead for blue/green/cyan or red/yellow/magenta, and only 3 are dead on white. But with 175 hours, I'm worried this may only get worse. Thoughts?

Everything else with the TV looks great - my 3% and 4% grey slides show extremely minor vignetting, and my 5% and 10% slides look perfect to me.
As a follow-up to my above post, I decided that 20+ dead pixels was too many and did an exchange. Best Buy just dropped off the new one and it is a 603. How is that possible? The one I exchanged was a 611 build. I find it hard to believe that the same store had a 603 sitting in the back for a year. Is it possible that LG is now sending out refurbs and they are getting sold as new by retailers?

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post #17218 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:19 AM
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As a follow-up to my above post, I decided that 20+ dead pixels was too many and did an exchange. Best Buy just dropped off the new one and it is a 603. How is that possible? The one I exchanged was a 611 build. I find it hard to believe that the same store had a 603 sitting in the back for a year. Is it possible that LG is now sending out refurbs and they are getting sold as new by retailers?
How do you tell the build?

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post #17219 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:23 AM
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How do you tell the build?
Build date is first three numbers of serial number. 603 = March 2016.

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post #17220 of 21997 Old 03-21-2017, 11:29 AM
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wow, so everyone's set does this? weird that this is not getting fixed
thanks for the replies guys.
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