2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread - Page 446 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #13351 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 05:14 AM
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Originally Posted by I WANT MORE View Post
Chad left it on or recommended it?
Yes real cinema on

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post #13352 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by chunon View Post
It doesn't prevent IR that is a fact.
It's a fact? Source?

Again, it may not completely prevent IR, but it can certainly help avoid it. If you have a pixel - or even a small group of pixels, that are on constantly, moving those pixels from time to time will help avoid IR. I'm not sure why that is hard to understand? Seems like common sense to me.


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It does however impact image fidelity.
Please explain how it lowers image fidelity. It simply "shifts" the entire screen (which you don't even notice happening) - how does that lower image fidelity? Is that statement an opinion or a fact? If it's a fact, please provide a source.

I think that you are confusing fact and opinion...

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post #13353 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jtrosky View Post
It's a fact? Source?

Again, it may not completely prevent IR, but it can certainly help avoid it. If you have a pixel - or even a small group of pixels, that are on constantly, moving those pixels from time to time will help avoid IR. I'm not sure why that is hard to understand? Seems like common sense to me.




Please explain how it lowers image fidelity. It simply "shifts" the entire screen (which you don't even notice happening) - how does that lower image fidelity? Is that statement an opinion or a fact? If it's a fact, please provide a source.

I think that you are confusing fact and opinion...

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As are you . If it makes you sleep better at night leave it on doesn't matter to me. I have been there and done that with multiple sets. Done arguing about it.

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post #13354 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:24 AM
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Does anyone use a PS4 Pro here?
The last couple days I've been having issues with it. Sometimes when switching to the PS4 Pro the picture seems to 'bootloop' where the image will flash on the screen for a couple seconds and then it goes to static then black continuously. The only way to 'fix' this is to boot the PS4 Pro into safemode switch the hdcp from 2.2 to 1.4 then reboot. After that you have to do the samething, but in reverse( 1.4 -> 2.2 ). The TV is on the latest firmware .77. This just started happening last Friday.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen.
I'm thinking about factory resetting the TV, but I believe it's more on the PS4 Pro.
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post #13355 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bdub25 View Post
Does anyone use a PS4 Pro here?
The last couple days I've been having issues with it. Sometimes when switching to the PS4 Pro the picture seems to 'bootloop' where the image will flash on the screen for a couple seconds and then it goes to static then black continuously. The only way to 'fix' this is to boot the PS4 Pro into safemode switch the hdcp from 2.2 to 1.4 then reboot. After that you have to do the samething, but in reverse( 1.4 -> 2.2 ). The TV is on the latest firmware .77. This just started happening last Friday.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen.
I'm thinking about factory resetting the TV, but I believe it's more on the PS4 Pro.
Hmm? I've been playing Rise of the Tomb Raider a lot on my PS4 Pro and haven't experienced that issue. I'm not sure what could be causing those issues? Maybe try a different HDMI Input? I have mine in HDMI #3.

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post #13356 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:41 AM
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Originally Posted by supaflyz View Post
Can I ask you guys with the B6, C6, or E6 how do it perform on upscaling non-4k materials? I know all of the LG Oleds have the same picture quality just some differences in soundbar, higher nit and such. I'm asking is because I know they don't have a lot of 4k stuff let alone HDR. So mainly I will be watching my older blurays or stuff on directv. I was about to buy that $1399 55c6 for my bedroom a month back when it was going for $1399 on ebay from adorama I think. Looking at 4k materials and HDR demo at BB give me no doubt that OLED beats LCD technology. however, I have read some comments on here that the upscaling is not so good for stuff that isn't 4k?
After having read many posts about how terrible non-4K material looks on the 6 series, I was a little apprehensive when I bought mine. My real world experience is that the set (65C6) makes any clean source look better than the Panasonic VT60 plasma I had before. Even Laserdisks look better. A really bad source will still look terrible, but no worse than other TVs. I am not thrilled by motion artifacts, but I was not thrilled with the artifacts from the plasmas I have owned. OTA with HD sources using the built-in tuner usually looks very good.

For any product, there will be people posting about how bad it is. Most of the time I do not find their experiences the same as mine, might be the source quality, or an expectation that some magic will make a VHS tape look like UHD.
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post #13357 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Superman23 View Post
Hmm? I've been playing Rise of the Tomb Raider a lot on my PS4 Pro and haven't experienced that issue. I'm not sure what could be causing those issues? Maybe try a different HDMI Input? I have mine in HDMI #3.
I tried all of the HDMI inputs. I switched it out to the one that my cable box runs through and nothing. I don't think its the TV but I'm coming up on my return date deadline.
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post #13358 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Bdub25 View Post
I tried all of the HDMI inputs. I switched it out to the one that my cable box runs through and nothing. I don't think its the TV but I'm coming up on my return date deadline.
Maybe see if you can rent a PS4 Pro from somewhere of see if you can borrow a friends PS4 Pro? That way you can be sure and not have to take the TV back. I'm praying it's just your PS4 Pro and not the TV.

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post #13359 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Bdub25 View Post
Does anyone use a PS4 Pro here?
The last couple days I've been having issues with it. Sometimes when switching to the PS4 Pro the picture seems to 'bootloop' where the image will flash on the screen for a couple seconds and then it goes to static then black continuously. The only way to 'fix' this is to boot the PS4 Pro into safemode switch the hdcp from 2.2 to 1.4 then reboot. After that you have to do the samething, but in reverse( 1.4 -> 2.2 ). The TV is on the latest firmware .77. This just started happening last Friday.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen.
I'm thinking about factory resetting the TV, but I believe it's more on the PS4 Pro.
Have you tried a new HDMI cable? I had major issues with mine and the "fuzzy screen" was one of them, kept losing the signal. Had to buy new Amazon basics cables when I got my c6/marantz avr which fixed the issue but then added the PS4 pro and the Abasics cables wouldn't work for it. Had to use the cable supplied with PS4 pro.
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post #13360 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by KB77Hell View Post
Have you tried a new HDMI cable? I had major issues with mine and the "fuzzy screen" was one of them, kept losing the signal. Had to buy new Amazon basics cables when I got my c6/marantz avr which fixed the issue but then added the PS4 pro and the Abasics cables wouldn't work for it. Had to use the cable supplied with PS4 pro.
Good Points! I'm also using the HDMI Cable that came with the PS4 Pro and it works fine.

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post #13361 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Spacedave View Post
After having read many posts about how terrible non-4K material looks on the 6 series, I was a little apprehensive when I bought mine. My real world experience is that the set (65C6) makes any clean source look better than the Panasonic VT60 plasma I had before.
I have not really read anything that bad. 480I and better looks good. 1080I and up is incredible......Anything below 480I is terrible on any flat panel.
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post #13362 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Superman23 View Post
Good Points! I'm also using the HDMI Cable that came with the PS4 Pro and it works fine.
I did switch the cable out for a new Monoprice premium certified cable. maybe I'll switch back to the supplied PS4 HDMI cable.
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post #13363 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bdub25 View Post
I did switch the cable out for a new Monoprice premium certified cable. maybe I'll switch back to the supplied PS4 HDMI cable.
Okay hopefully that'll work!

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post #13364 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 08:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Superman23 View Post
Good Points! I'm also using the HDMI Cable that came with the PS4 Pro and it works fine.
I did switch the cable out for a new Monoprice premium certified cable. maybe I'll switch back to the supplied PS4 HDMI cable.
That's may be the exact cable that I had, the Monoprice with "active" Redmere technology and I had to switch goes to the Amazon basics, which I then had to switch to the supplied cable.
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post #13365 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 09:45 AM
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For anyone considering one of these TVs who watches OTA broadcast TV in North America, I'm quite impressed with the quality of the tuner in my B6. I'm far less likely to see signal glitches or break-ups (likely due to multipath interference) using its built-in tuner than I am using the tuners in my TiVo Roamio or in my old 2008 model Samsung TV.

OTOH, the LG tuner seems to be a bit less likely to display very weak signals. There are a couple of low-power stations that, with great effort in terms of antenna positioning, I can tune in with other tuners, although still with glitches; I can't tune them in at all with the LG's tuner. But I don't really care anyhow. Far more important to me is that I get way more reliable reception on all the local high-power stations, even when it's windy.
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post #13366 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 12:08 PM
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The number one purchasing regret is screen size. If you can swing the 65" I would go for it.

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Go with the 65...you'll be kicking yourself down the road if you don't
You'll both be happy to know that I'll be going with the 65-inch model.

I did have a couple more questions, for anyone that would be willing to answer:

1.) How is the motion on this set? I know there were issues that were patched during a firmware update some time ago, but has it resolved those issues entirely?

I'm going from a Plasma to an OLED, so motion is a pretty important thing for me when it comes to films, but admittedly not a deal breaker as long as the judder/blur is tolerable, and not overbearing.

2.) How does HDR look with this set? Black levels and viewing angles are very important to me, so that's why I could never opt for an LCD panel, regardless of how much improved local dimming has become on those sets. They're still edge-lit, which is an inherent issue for me. However, I know that they can get brighter. Even though the 2016 LG OLED sets can't reach 1,000-nits, is the performance of this set when it comes to HDR content still better than adequate?

3.) Can I calibrate this set right out of the box, or do I have to have a break-in period, similar to that of Plasmas?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
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post #13367 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 12:55 PM
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Anyone having issues with lip sync? I seem to only have a issue when watching Cable TV which is connected to my XBOX ONE S to the television. I've tried the A/V adjustment manually, bypass and off. Bypass seems to be the best so far but I still see some lip sync being off. Is anyone using the manual A/V adjustments? I'm currently testing it out at -1.
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post #13368 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by cerchiarax View Post
Anyone having issues with lip sync? I seem to only have a issue when watching Cable TV which is connected to my XBOX ONE S to the television. I've tried the A/V adjustment manually, bypass and off. Bypass seems to be the best so far but I still see some lip sync being off. Is anyone using the manual A/V adjustments? I'm currently testing it out at -1.
Same here........sometimes sports center lip sync is off when watching on my direct tv. I think it's whatever the source is cuz I'll switch to blu ray movie and lip sync is perfect.
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post #13369 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Spacedave View Post
After having read many posts about how terrible non-4K material looks on the 6 series, I was a little apprehensive when I bought mine. My real world experience is that the set (65C6) makes any clean source look better than the Panasonic VT60 plasma I had before. Even Laserdisks look better. A really bad source will still look terrible, but no worse than other TVs. I am not thrilled by motion artifacts, but I was not thrilled with the artifacts from the plasmas I have owned. OTA with HD sources using the built-in tuner usually looks very good.

.


That sounds about right. I feel the same about my 65C. When the lights go off and you have a shifting AR movie this bad boy is the best thing on the planet.
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post #13370 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 01:57 PM
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That sounds about right. I feel the same about my 65C. When the lights go off and you have a shifting AR movie this bad boy is the best thing on the planet.
So I have had my B6 three weeks now and watched almost every kind of video there is from tv to movie to sports (football, basketball, hockey) and I just have to ask -- what is this motion thing everyone is asking about? I have all motion processing off. I don't play games.
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post #13371 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Bdub25 View Post
Does anyone use a PS4 Pro here?
The last couple days I've been having issues with it. Sometimes when switching to the PS4 Pro the picture seems to 'bootloop' where the image will flash on the screen for a couple seconds and then it goes to static then black continuously. The only way to 'fix' this is to boot the PS4 Pro into safemode switch the hdcp from 2.2 to 1.4 then reboot. After that you have to do the samething, but in reverse( 1.4 -> 2.2 ). The TV is on the latest firmware .77. This just started happening last Friday.
I was wondering if anyone else has had this happen.
I'm thinking about factory resetting the TV, but I believe it's more on the PS4 Pro.
I have the E6 and once in a while it will just randomly lose its signal......its just hdmi handshake. When this occurs I would click on a different input and wait for the open input list and say yes. From there on your left side just click on a different input back and fourth and usually the hdmi handshake will reingage and you will get the picture back again. I never mess with the hdcp.

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post #13372 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by richlife View Post
So I have had my B6 three weeks now and watched almost every kind of video there is from tv to movie to sports (football, basketball, hockey) and I just have to ask -- what is this motion thing everyone is asking about? I have all motion processing off. I don't play games.
Same for me Rich,

My 3 month old Black Friday B6 is Great with all HD and UHD sources, (also play XBONE and PS4 games too)
If there's one thing I've learned from this thread (and the JVC Projector thread)

Set it up, make a few personal tweaks, then leave these sections of the forum alone, never to return.
If there are imperfections to be found by running specific test patterns/videos etc, that you would never see in normal conditions..
....Don't go looking for trouble!

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post #13373 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 02:43 PM
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Same for me Rich,

My 3 month old Black Friday B6 is Great with all HD and UHD sources, (also play XBONE and PS4 games too)
If there's one thing I've learned from this thread (and the JVC Projector thread)

Set it up, make a few personal tweaks, then leave these sections of the forum alone, never to return.
If there are imperfections to be found by running specific test patterns/videos etc, that you would never see in normal conditions..
....Don't go looking for trouble!

Very good advice!

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post #13374 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 02:45 PM
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So I have had my B6 three weeks now and watched almost every kind of video there is from tv to movie to sports (football, basketball, hockey) and I just have to ask -- what is this motion thing everyone is asking about? I have all motion processing off. I don't play games.


Oh brother. That's a question alright


Honestly you just don't even really want to know and I wish I could climb back into my blissful ignorance bubble that I had with my old CRT. In a nutshell motion is not captured well in film making because it is constrained to 24 frames per second. This makes displaying the motion faithfully somewhat of a disaster because even if you reproduce it faithfully its going to look bad for people that 'see' the issues. For movies 24 frames per second isn't high enough to provide smooth motion consistently. The extra motion processing people enable on their tv's to make things silky smooth use the computer/chip to 'makeup' frames using an algorithm to extrapolate extra frames that don't actually exist in the source. The software usually just makes things really super smooth, and soap opera like, but in our TVs case there's a whole bunch of sideeffects. Artifacts are common amongst all tv motion smoothers and are just results of the algorithm getting some things wrong in the picture while its busy making up new frames that never existed, and there is no set of standards on how a motion smoother needs to work when its busy making up these new frames. The extra "bad" our TV's Motion Smoother functions have is a stutter, or inconsistent motion that creates a noticeable jerkiness, which is really bad since you normally turn these things on to stop things from looking jerky to begin with.


But the great news is that if you have all that junk turned off and you have no complaints you are in the good zone and you should just stay there! If you see 'realcinema' on while watching a movie, just understand that that means the TV is guaranteeing you that your 24 frame per second movie is actually displaying 24 distinct frames back to you for equal amounts of time, you know, like a 'real cinema' . Of course our TV's blink at 120hz so that means you actually get each frame repeated 5 times to you with RealCinema On (5 x 24frames = 120hz).


There's a whole bunch more to it when you start peeling this onion back...but imo, just don't

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post #13375 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 02:51 PM
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3.) Can I calibrate this set right out of the box, or do I have to have a break-in period, similar to that of Plasmas?

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
You can probably calibrate it immediately, but most people recommend waiting a while. When I did hi-rel electronics for space, we wanted everything burned in 268 hours, minimum, to eliminate early failures. Most modern electronics have very high reliability after about 100 hours (following what is usually referred to as the infant mortality curve). Usually after 100 or so hours of operation, electronics tend to have very small changes and you can calibrate with high confidence that the calibration will be good for a while. Plasmas were a special case, as the phosphors generally changed a lot with initial use, hence the use of break-in slides that stressed all the phosphors to get past the initial shifts.

If nothing else, you should wait until you have at least 100 hours of operation to make sure that an early failure does not make your calibration a waste of time and money if you hire someone to calibrate.
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post #13376 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by richlife View Post
So I have had my B6 three weeks now and watched almost every kind of video there is from tv to movie to sports (football, basketball, hockey) and I just have to ask -- what is this motion thing everyone is asking about? I have all motion processing off. I don't play games.
What people refer to as "motion" on a TV set is really just an optical illusion. For this reason, perceptions vary wildly. Some people see judder (or a "jittery" movement) in some content. Others don't. Some people are REALLY bothered by it. If you are sensitive to it, you'll notice it particularly in camera pans in filmed content. The whole conversation is really an invitation to an argument. If you are interested, this article describes the issue:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/l...es-in-every-tv

The pertinent information is in the section titled 3. Motion Smoothing.

The best thing, in my opinion, is just to let the illusion happen and don't over-worry about it too much. I turn all processing off as a matter of course and I've been very happy with the results.
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post #13377 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dwarfnebula View Post
What people refer to as "motion" on a TV set is really just an optical illusion. For this reason, perceptions vary wildly. Some people see judder (or a "jittery" movement) in some content. Others don't. Some people are REALLY bothered by it. If you are sensitive to it, you'll notice it particularly in camera pans in filmed content. The whole conversation is really an invitation to an argument. If you are interested, this article describes the issue:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/l...es-in-every-tv

The pertinent information is in the section titled 3. Motion Smoothing.

The best thing, in my opinion, is just to let the illusion happen and don't over-worry about it too much. I turn all processing off as a matter of course and I've been very happy with the results.
I turned off all motion processing also. I currently just deal with the choppy motion. This choppy motion is almost always on camera pans. This TV does a worse job than any other TV I tested camera panning on. Motion like a ball moving in a baseball game is fine.

If you have Netflix check out Stranger Things Episode 2 right after the credits. If that panning shot with the guy working on the light pole isn't extremely choppy to you then you are not very sensitive to judder.

Trumotion makes the motion smooth but introduces too many other side-effects.
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post #13378 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 04:38 PM
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Hi guys. I'm wondering if all the pictures modes (Standard, ISF Dark/Bright, etc) all work the same and just have different presets. In other words, if they all had the exact same settings, would they all function the same or do some of them do less/more processing or something else? I'd like to calibrate for different sources but without the ability to create new/custom modes the only way I can see to do this is to pick a different picture mode and calibrate them separately. Thanks.
That seems to be the case. I think they are just "starting points".
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
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post #13379 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 04:42 PM
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For HDR content, via a UHD player, what settings do most use for B6s? I left everything default but changed the motion settings. What are others doing?

Also, do you use HDR standard or HDR bright room/dynamic?
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post #13380 of 28186 Old 02-22-2017, 06:09 PM
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That seems to be the case. I think they are just "starting points".
Someone correct me if I am wrong.
Thanks for the reply. After a bit more investigation I noticed that some of the modes do not offer the expert controls and the full set of options. I guess that's why they have the ISF settings. If anyone has any other information about this I would appreciate it. Thanks.

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