2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread - Page 816 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #24451 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
Where did you hear that? Didn't somebody else say LG claimed they were going to keep supporting the 2016 sets until 2020 or something?
i hope so. since the sets can already do DV i am not hoping but i expect lg should provide a hdr10+ update.

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post #24452 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
Where did you hear that? Didn't somebody else say LG claimed they were going to keep supporting the 2016 sets until 2020 or something?


I saw someone mention it on Twitter, but nothing official, obviously.

Hopefully, you are right about the 2020 call.

If nothing else, LG should do us a solid and supply the update regardless. Every LG/Dolby Vision compatible panel should receive it.


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post #24453 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by korsjs View Post
i hope so. since the sets can already do DV i am not hoping but i expect lg should provide a hdr10+ update.
I'm not sure it would be beneficial on these sets unless they change the way HDR10 content is tonemapped. Right now tonemapping doesn't seem to be any different regardless of what the metadata is, so if the metadata was dynamic, that wouldn't magically make it look better unless they redid the tonemapping to make it more like the Active HDR of the 2017 sets. With DV, it's not the dynamic metadata that makes it looks better, it's the better tonemapping algorithms that adapt to changing metadata, and also take into account the display's capabilities. The tonemapping in HDR10 is fairly simple. For HDR Standard, it's basically display First 500 nits unmodified, then the next 500 significantly compressed, but still visible detail, and then detail from 1000-4000 nits is pretty much crushed, but very subtly noticeable. Everything above that is clipped.

I used to think that with dynamic metadata, darker scenes could be encoded to use the 10 bits more efficiently, but I was corrected on that over in the HDR list thread (posts now deleted because the mods are going nuts over there over every little tangent). Apparently 64-940 always refers to 0-10,000 nits, regardless of content or metadata. I originally thought, for example, a 1000 nit movie would map 64-940 to 0-1000 nits, but I guess not. Would have only made a subtle difference, but it would have made the darkest scenes look like 12bit.

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post #24454 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 02:59 AM
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Originally Posted by TetraVaal View Post
I saw someone mention it on Twitter, but nothing official, obviously.

Hopefully, you are right about the 2020 call.

If nothing else, LG should do us a solid and supply the update regardless. Every LG/Dolby Vision compatible panel should receive it.


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It's too bad Dolby Vision doesn't have its own, separate updates. Since really, it's Dolby's hardware processing the tonemapping.
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post #24455 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 04:44 AM
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All this Dolby Vision talk, and I'm still waiting for a movie I actually want to watch to come out in Dolby Vision :-).
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post #24456 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 05:52 AM
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All this Dolby Vision talk, and I'm still waiting for a movie I actually want to watch to come out in Dolby Vision :-).
Dude, really? There are at LEAST 10 must see DV titles on Vudu. At least.

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post #24457 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 06:11 AM
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I also think, that pixel shift only runs in 16:9 setting and that it's disabled in "Original"
Is this accurate? I would think that the Screen Shift option would be greyed out and unavailable if so, but it's not.

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post #24458 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by korsjs View Post
i hope so. since the sets can already do DV i am not hoping but i expect lg should provide a hdr10+ update.
From what I have read on another site, LG pretty much nixed the importance of HDR10+ at CES. I think we have to remember that LG and Samsung are rivals, and LG isn't about to do anything that will help Samsung gain media advantage. Sony has also come out to say they are not supporting HDR10+ at this time.

We all know this can change at any time, especially if HDR10+ does take off and prove to be superior to DV.
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post #24459 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by adcustom View Post
Dude, really? There are at LEAST 10 must see DV titles on Vudu. At least.
Think they meant Blu-ray

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post #24460 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by dodo/lurker View Post

We all know this can change at any time, especially if HDR10+ does take off and prove to be superior to DV.
It may not be a matter of better, maybe just a matter of choice/preference......
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post #24461 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by NomanA View Post
I wasn't aware of a "Just Scan" setting in these LG TVs. I always see difference between 16:9 and Original on 16:9 broadcasts, where the "Original" actually shows the exact 1:1 pixel-mapped image. Maybe the just scan toggle only works for "Original" setting, and I might have set it in the beginning and forgot about it.

Thanks for the correction. I'll check the just-scan toggle and report back.
So, I was wrong about 16:9 and Original being different (for 16:9 sources) too. I must have toggled the JustScan setting on seeing the overscan in 16:9 mode and then moved to Original setting, and then forgot about the JustScan switch.

As others have said in this thread, 16:9 and Original settings have no differences for 16:9 sources.
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post #24462 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 10:47 AM
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Is this accurate? I would think that the Screen Shift option would be greyed out and unavailable if so, but it's not.
Considering I have given incorrect information about pretty much everything regarding the AR/JustScan setting in this thread, I am very likely wrong about ScreenShift feature not working when JustScan is enabled

All I can say is that I haven't noticed pixel-shift in 1:1 pixel mapped output (either cable, or PC desktop), whereas I could see the shift when JustScan was disabled.
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post #24463 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 12:04 PM
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Well, my TV has an issue (I think). Found a blue line going down right side of screen when playing a video game on my PS4 (only showed up on a certain colored background, runs entire length of screen). Thought it was an issue with the game. Started watching a movie today, and saw it again (computer, completely different HDMI port on TV). I've attached images. It's more obvious in the game, but I didn't capture that, and I can't pause it to take a picture.

Anybody know what this is? I'm going to try and replicate this using a solid color (some shade of blue, it looks like. Doesn't show up otherwise.) Want to try and get it nailed down before I contact LG.
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post #24464 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NomanA View Post
Considering I have given incorrect information about pretty much everything regarding the AR/JustScan setting in this thread, I am very likely wrong about ScreenShift feature not working when JustScan is enabled

All I can say is that I haven't noticed pixel-shift in 1:1 pixel mapped output (either cable, or PC desktop), whereas I could see the shift when JustScan was disabled.
LOL! I haven't noticed it either, and was curious if that was because it wasn't happening for the reason you stated, or b/c I just wasn't looking for it. I have Screen Shift enabled as an extra bit of insurance against burn-in (yes, I know many claim it does nothing), but I also vary content and don't have my set on vivid mode. No burn-in at all after a year, even with kids playing video games.

Right or wrong, I still appreciate your observations.

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post #24465 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 12:38 PM
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Well, my TV has an issue (I think). Found a blue line going down right side of screen when playing a video game on my PS4 (only showed up on a certain colored background, runs entire length of screen). Thought it was an issue with the game. Started watching a movie today, and saw it again (computer, completely different HDMI port on TV). I've attached images. It's more obvious in the game, but I didn't capture that, and I can't pause it to take a picture.

Anybody know what this is? I'm going to try and replicate this using a solid color (some shade of blue, it looks like. Doesn't show up otherwise.) Want to try and get it nailed down before I contact LG.
Check out the 2016 OLED threads (maybe this one) in the last week. Someone else had an issue with a line down the right side of their screen. I can't remember if it was resolved or not, but one of the guesses was a loose internal ribbon connection due to the colder weather. IIRC, their line went away after the set warmed up. Good luck!

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post #24466 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
used to think that with dynamic metadata, darker scenes could be encoded to use the 10 bits more efficiently, but I was corrected on that over in the HDR list thread (posts now deleted because the mods are going nuts over there over every little tangent). Apparently 64-960 always refers to 0-10,000 nits, regardless of content or metadata. I originally thought, for example, a 1000 nit movie would map 64-960 to 0-1000 nits, but I guess not. Would have only made a subtle difference, but it would have made the darkest scenes look like 12bit.
IMO, it would have been better for HDR tone mapping to be left to the player: at the end of the day it's still a 10 bit output. At least we wouldn't have to deal with the black box that is an LG OLED TV, at the mercy of LG and their unwillingness to improve older models.
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post #24467 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Check out the 2016 OLED threads (maybe this one) in the last week. Someone else had an issue with a line down the right side of their screen. I can't remember if it was resolved or not, but one of the guesses was a loose internal ribbon connection due to the colder weather. IIRC, their line went away after the set warmed up. Good luck!
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Originally Posted by mttpalmer View Post
Check out the 2016 OLED threads (maybe this one) in the last week. Someone else had an issue with a line down the right side of their screen. I can't remember if it was resolved or not, but one of the guesses was a loose internal ribbon connection due to the colder weather. IIRC, their line went away after the set warmed up. Good luck!
I'm going to do some research into it tomorrow. Thanks.

Another pic for those interested. Very clear this time. I'll update when I find the specific issue.
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post #24468 of 28192 Old 01-11-2018, 07:44 PM
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IMO, it would have been better for HDR tone mapping to be left to the player: at the end of the day it's still a 10 bit output. At least we wouldn't have to deal with the black box that is an LG OLED TV, at the mercy of LG and their unwillingness to improve older models.
Theoretically, that could still be done. If a player came out that allowed the user to customize their tone curve, you could design your own curve, with LG's existing curve in mind to get the picture you want. It just wouldn't be super easy to work with.

For example, if I wanted to linearly map 0-1000 nits to this display, and clip above that, I would have to design the curve approximately like this:


0 - 900 nits -> 0 - 500 nits
900 - 965 nits -> 500 - 1000 nits
965 - 1000 nits -> 1000 - 4000 nits

On a non 2016 LG that output would look really weird, but it would look pretty great on these particular sets for 1000 nit movies. Then you could multiply those input numbers by 2x and 4x for 2000nit, 4000nit modes if you wanted. Of course for those modes you'd definitely want a dark room to view it in. Optimally you'd probably want to output in 12bit to reduce rounding errors, but I believe most players output 12bit anyway.

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post #24469 of 28192 Old 01-12-2018, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
Theoretically, that could still be done. If a player came out that allowed the user to customize their tone curve, you could design your own curve, with LG's existing curve in mind to get the picture you want. It just wouldn't be super easy to work with.

For example, if I wanted to linearly map 0-1000 nits to this display, and clip above that, I would have to design the curve approximately like this:


0 - 900 nits -> 0 - 500 nits
900 - 965 nits -> 500 - 1000 nits
965 - 1000 nits -> 1000 - 4000 nits

On a non 2016 LG that output would look really weird, but it would look pretty great on these particular sets for 1000 nit movies. Then you could multiply those input numbers by 2x and 4x for 2000nit, 4000nit modes if you wanted. Of course for those modes you'd definitely want a dark room to view it in. Optimally you'd probably want to output in 12bit to reduce rounding errors, but I believe most players output 12bit anyway.

Vincent talks on the video that I posted earlier that the new Panasonic have its own tone mapping feature. You will be able to set it to different peak nits modes.

If thats true then I would like to buy that player since it will also have dolby vision.
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post #24470 of 28192 Old 01-12-2018, 04:50 PM
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Can someone please tell me why all the sudden when I turn on my B6 OLED it goes straight to the live TV versus the one hdmi input I always use. I never actually watch live tv. Thx.
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post #24471 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 12:12 AM
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Can anyone help clarify the firmware downgrading process?

https://github.com/joey-astrologo/OLED55-65B6-Downgrade
Code:
Go to dns/AcrylicHosts.txt and edit the file with the ip address of the computer running the program. The three line you need to edit are
So is this a .exe or a .txt file that I will be downloading? The first step makes it seem like a regular text file.

Code:
Make sure your tv and computer are plugged into the same router with ethernet cables. Got to the network settings on your tv and manually enter the network settings for wired connection. If your internet gateway is 192.168.50.1 then your settings should be;
So I need to have my TV physically connected to my router with a ethernet cable? It can't be done wirelessly?
My router & PC are like 80' away from the TV. I don't think it's possible for me to do that.

Code:
Go back to your PC and press Enter in the command window with yellow  text. If you get any Firewall warnings, allow them all through the  firewall.
This wording is confusing. Steps 6 to 9 are about answering questions from the "start.bat" file on my PC.
How am I supposed to "go back to my PC" & find the "command window with yellow text"?

Code:
Go back to the TV and verify that it connects to the internet. All 4  rings should be green in the window you entered the computer IP.
What 4 rings? Is that just supposed to pop up on my TV screen randomly or do I have to enter some information on mY TV (nothing was stated in the instructions on entering info on the TV).


Anyone who downgraded, can you help?

Last edited by wtfer; 01-13-2018 at 12:16 AM.
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post #24472 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 06:42 AM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Can anyone help clarify the firmware downgrading process?

https://github.com/joey-astrologo/OLED55-65B6-Downgrade
Code:
Go to dns/AcrylicHosts.txt and edit the file with the ip address of the computer running the program. The three line you need to edit are
So is this a .exe or a .txt file that I will be downloading? The first step makes it seem like a regular text file.
You'll be downloading a zip file that includes a bunch of other files, including a variety of executables and text files.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Code:
Make sure your tv and computer are plugged into the same router with ethernet cables. Got to the network settings on your tv and manually enter the network settings for wired connection. If your internet gateway is 192.168.50.1 then your settings should be;
So I need to have my TV physically connected to my router with a ethernet cable? It can't be done wirelessly?
My router & PC are like 80' away from the TV. I don't think it's possible for me to do that.
You don't have to be connected by ethernet. It's just always safer to perform things like firmware updates on a hardwired connection.

Quote:
Code:
Go back to your PC and press Enter in the command window with yellow  text. If you get any Firewall warnings, allow them all through the  firewall.
This wording is confusing. Steps 6 to 9 are about answering questions from the "start.bat" file on my PC.
How am I supposed to "go back to my PC" & find the "command window with yellow text"?
The start.bat file will open a couple of command windows, one of which has yellow text in it.

Quote:
Code:
Go back to the TV and verify that it connects to the internet. All 4  rings should be green in the window you entered the computer IP.
What 4 rings? Is that just supposed to pop up on my TV screen randomly or do I have to enter some information on mY TV (nothing was stated in the instructions on entering info on the TV).
It's part of the LG's network connection screen. There are four dots on the screen that show various levels of network connectivity.

While the downgrade process is relatively straightforward, it does require a bit of technical knowledge, and it definitely helps if you're familiar with things like zip files and the basic processes of connecting machines in a network and flashing firmware. If you're feeling this uncomfortable with the process, I would recommend asking a more technical friend or family member to help you out.
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post #24473 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
Can anyone help clarify the firmware downgrading process?

https://github.com/joey-astrologo/OLED55-65B6-Downgrade
Code:
Go to dns/AcrylicHosts.txt and edit the file with the ip address of the computer running the program. The three line you need to edit are
So is this a .exe or a .txt file that I will be downloading? The first step makes it seem like a regular text file.

Code:
Make sure your tv and computer are plugged into the same router with ethernet cables. Got to the network settings on your tv and manually enter the network settings for wired connection. If your internet gateway is 192.168.50.1 then your settings should be;
So I need to have my TV physically connected to my router with a ethernet cable? It can't be done wirelessly?
My router & PC are like 80' away from the TV. I don't think it's possible for me to do that.

Code:
Go back to your PC and press Enter in the command window with yellow  text. If you get any Firewall warnings, allow them all through the  firewall.
This wording is confusing. Steps 6 to 9 are about answering questions from the "start.bat" file on my PC.
How am I supposed to "go back to my PC" & find the "command window with yellow text"?

Code:
Go back to the TV and verify that it connects to the internet. All 4  rings should be green in the window you entered the computer IP.
What 4 rings? Is that just supposed to pop up on my TV screen randomly or do I have to enter some information on mY TV (nothing was stated in the instructions on entering info on the TV).


Anyone who downgraded, can you help?
I just completed this process about a week ago. I posted a few comments clarifying what to do. I don't know how to find and link to my post via Tapatalk but if you can find it, that should be helpful.

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post #24474 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 02:31 PM
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Can someone please tell me why all the sudden when I turn on my B6 OLED it goes straight to the live TV versus the one hdmi input I always use. I never actually watch live tv. Thx.


So basically the “opposite” of what you want, eh Mr. Costanza?


Maybe turn off “Quick start” in the settings?
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post #24475 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 03:00 PM
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So basically the “opposite” of what you want, eh Mr. Costanza?


Maybe turn off “Quick start” in the settings?

Exactly! Lol. It just started doing this. I’ve already toggled the quick start and every other setting I can think of. No luck. Grrr!
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post #24476 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 04:28 PM
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From what I have read on another site, LG pretty much nixed the importance of HDR10+ at CES. I think we have to remember that LG and Samsung are rivals, and LG isn't about to do anything that will help Samsung gain media advantage. Sony has also come out to say they are not supporting HDR10+ at this time.

We all know this can change at any time, especially if HDR10+ does take off and prove to be superior to DV.
I don't think HDR10+ is or ever will be technically superior to DV, particularly on OLED TVs. That said, because it's an open standard that's cheaper than DV for content providers to use, it's possible that HDR10+ content will ultimately be more widespread than DV. But I kinda doubt it. There are now so many different competing HDR standards and the general public can't keep up with them all. Because of their first-moving advantage, and because of the familiarity and cachet of the Dolby brand, I think DV has emerged as in the public consciousness as the premium version of HDR and that counts for a lot. Plus, every major movie studio besides Fox supports DV, while Fox is supporting HDR10+. But keep in mind that Fox may well end up being acquired by Disney, a DV supporter.
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post #24477 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 04:42 PM
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Exactly! Lol. It just started doing this. I’ve already toggled the quick start and every other setting I can think of. No luck. Grrr!
Could it be a problem with a Universal remote(harmony or something telling it to do that)?

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post #24478 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 06:16 PM
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Could it be a problem with a Universal remote(harmony or something telling it to do that)?
I’m using original remote. So on your B6, when u turn it on it doesn’t go straight to the TV tuner? Even if u were watching YouTube or any other built in app, or a separate hdmi input?
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post #24479 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 06:19 PM
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I’m using original remote. So on your B6, when u turn it on it doesn’t go straight to the TV tuner? Even if u were watching YouTube or any other built in app, or a separate hdmi input?
My B6 starts on the last non-app input that I used regardless of remote.
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post #24480 of 28192 Old 01-13-2018, 06:21 PM
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My B6 starts on the last non-app input that I used regardless of remote.
Ok. And if u were watching an app, like YouTube? Does it restart that app or start with tv tuner?
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