2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread - Page 911 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27301 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 11:42 AM
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Amazon Fire Stick 4K (new)
Pioneer SC-LX501 AVR
LG Oled C6 TV
Fire Stick into AVR HDMI in. AVR to C6 TV by HDMI. Dolby Vision does not pass-through the AVR to the TV. All devices are Dolby Vision compliant. I do get HDR but not Dolby Vision. Does anyone have any ideas?

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post #27302 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legoheads View Post
I just wanted to take a second to thank you for posting these two links.

With the information posted on the other forum I successfully managed to downgrade my USA 55" B6P from 05.30.50 to 05.40.01 and then finally back to 04.31.20.
I'm very happy to report that my blacks are back! The picture improvement and system responsiveness of the 4 series firmware is immediately noticeable upon reboot.
I'm now thinking this will be my "forever" firmware for this set.

Highly recommend it to any others out there dissatisfied with the black glow of the latest round of firmware updates.
I forget, is the 4.31.20 the last update before they had the elevated blacks?
How hard was it to downgrade from 5.40.01 to the one your on now?
I been dragging my feet on downgrading, as I', clueless on all that router talk in the instructions.
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post #27303 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 12:34 PM
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I forget, is the 4.31.20 the last update before they had the elevated blacks?
How hard was it to downgrade from 5.40.01 to the one your on now?
I been dragging my feet on downgrading, as I', clueless on all that router talk in the instructions.
I believe 4.31.20 is the last "good" firmware. There was a 4.31.25, but I believe that was just for UK sets.
Once the 5 series came out the Game HDR mode was dimmed, system response slowed to a snail pace and then eventually the dreaded glow appeared.

Anyway, the process is kind of a pain to figure out. The instructions are clear, but it is still a bit confusing at times.
I was actually able to complete the process over WiFi. It says you have to hard wire, but turns out you don't have to. My guess is it is safer since the connection is more stable.
Word of warning you may brick your TV if things go wrong.

a few tips:
- be sure to work directly off the C: drive. Don't use an added subfolder or unzip to your desktop. Just copy and paste the unzipped files to the root drive and work from there.
- completely disable the windows firewall. I was having problems until I completed this step.
- editing some of the files to accept 5.40.01 was a pain since the text file was not easy to navigate in the notepad app. Have to put files size and dates in there which is a chore.

Once you successfully get 5.40.01 on there replace the previously edited update files with a fresh unzip of the github files. I recommend this step since the files are already pre-edited to accept the 4.31.20 firmware provided at the github link. Saves you some text editing work.

Can't believe we have to resort to this type of nonsense. Thanks LG!
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post #27304 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Legoheads View Post
I believe 4.31.20 is the last "good" firmware. There was a 4.31.25, but I believe that was just for UK sets.
Once the 5 series came out the Game HDR mode was dimmed, system response slowed to a snail pace and then eventually the dreaded glow appeared.

Anyway, the process is kind of a pain to figure out. The instructions are clear, but it is still a bit confusing at times.
I was actually able to complete the process over WiFi. It says you have to hard wire, but turns out you don't have to. My guess is it is safer since the connection is more stable.
Word of warning you may brick your TV if things go wrong.

a few tips:
- be sure to work directly off the C: drive. Don't use an added subfolder or unzip to your desktop. Just copy and paste the unzipped files to the root drive and work from there.
- completely disable the windows firewall. I was having problems until I completed this step.
- editing some of the files to accept 5.40.01 was a pain since the text file was not easy to navigate in the notepad app. Have to put files size and dates in there which is a chore.

Once you successfully get 5.40.01 on there replace the previously edited update files with a fresh unzip of the github files. I recommend this step since the files are already pre-edited to accept the 4.31.20 firmware provided at the github link. Saves you some text editing work.

Can't believe we have to resort to this type of nonsense. Thanks LG!
Any tips on how to edit the text file for 5.40.01? This is where I got hung up even though I've downgraded to 4.31.20 in the past. Maybe I don't understand the directions on github, but I couldn't see the fields in notepad.
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post #27305 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clayhans View Post
Amazon Fire Stick 4K (new)
Pioneer SC-LX501 AVR
LG Oled C6 TV
Fire Stick into AVR HDMI in. AVR to C6 TV by HDMI. Dolby Vision does not pass-through the AVR to the TV. All devices are Dolby Vision compliant. I do get HDR but not Dolby Vision. Does anyone have any ideas?
Make sure that its sending 24hz/30hz only. Our tvs cannot do DV at 60hz.

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post #27306 of 28166 Old 12-03-2018, 03:22 PM
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Any tips on how to edit the text file for 5.40.01? This is where I got hung up even though I've downgraded to 4.31.20 in the past. Maybe I don't understand the directions on github, but I couldn't see the fields in notepad.[/QUOTE]


No real tips other than to follow optional steps 4 & 5 on the GitHub directions precisely.
Wish I could be more help, but that's all I did.
Note that the model_nm file is a horizontal text string. You have to edit that one line which is cumbersome.

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post #27307 of 28166 Old 12-04-2018, 11:25 AM
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Sooo.....anymore beta testers for the newest 5.30.50 regarding the black glow maybe? Only people that have the problem with the "older" 5.* firmwares though. People who never had it dont need to report on that matter ^^
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post #27308 of 28166 Old 12-05-2018, 05:24 PM
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Can someone please help me figure out what the problem i have is? Just started seeing a square in center of tv when certain shades of color are on the screen. Is there a fix or any suggestions.
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post #27309 of 28166 Old 12-06-2018, 04:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KB77Hell View Post
My wife watches workout videos through the Web Browser and up until Wednesday, all was fine. Today when logging in there is a broken page symbol and a message saying "Sorry, your browser is not supported. Please use one of the modern browsers such as Google Chrome, or Mozilla Firefox."

I assume this means that it's a problem with the video and not the browser. I have a feeling the company that produces the videos changed the codec on them and WebOS cannot play them now.

Also, certain "adult" website videos used to be able to be streamed (when I first got the set late 2016) and that stopped working, giving an error message that the video is too large to be streamed...

Anyone else have these issues?
This is almost certainly an issue with the web pages and not the TV. Ignorant web developers often do not test for feature capabilities but just hard code support for specific version or browsers and block everything else.
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post #27310 of 28166 Old 12-06-2018, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by rogerpm5k View Post
Can someone please help me figure out what the problem i have is? Just started seeing a square in center of tv when certain shades of color are on the screen. Is there a fix or any suggestions.
I cannot get the thumbnails to enlarge for some reason. But take a look at this...maybe? :

04/10/2018: We contacted LG regarding the strange results in week 4. LG engineers visited our lab a few days ago and were able to confirm the 25% window on the Live CNN and FIFA 18 TVs are a result of a factory issue (see our video here). OLED TVs are produced in a hot process, and after cooling a 25% window is shown on each panel. Some TVs which haven't cooled completely can produce invalid results for the lookup table used by the 'Pixel Refresh' function, causing this 25% window to become visible. Only some 55" OLED TVs were affected during part of 2017.

As this is not an issue with the panel itself, it is possible to apply a fix to the lookup table. LG will apply this fix to anyone who presents this issue to their support, for free, even after the warranty period has long expired. They have fixed our two affected TVs (see the uniformity photos below). Note that this doesn't fix other uniformity issues as the result of static content, only the 25% window caused by a factory defect. LG has also confirmed that there is variation between panels, which is why some OLED appear more prone to developing uniformity issues (as in the case with our Live CNN (200 nits) vs Live CNN (Max).)

https://www.rtings.com/tv/learn/real...d-burn-in-test
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post #27311 of 28166 Old 12-06-2018, 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Legoheads View Post
This is an interseting theory. However from my experience the black crush was oddly not improved with the latest firmware. Just had the glow with now real added benefit to the picture quality.
Even from the start, a calibrator could get rid of a lot of that black crush....Not that someone should have to calibrate their TV.....
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post #27312 of 28166 Old 12-08-2018, 05:14 PM
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Make sure that its sending 24hz/30hz only. Our tvs cannot do DV at 60hz.
I'm seeing the same issue with my B6.


Setup
- Fire TV Stick 4k
- Direct to LG OLED B6


When display on Fire TV is set to "Auto", I get Dolby Vision for Netflix content (or always if I have HDR always enabled), but it is only 1080p.


When display on Fire TV is set to "2160p 60Hz", I get HDR for that same content. This must be the 30 v. 60Hz support.



What's interesting is that I view the same content via the native LG Netflix app and it shows in Dolby Vision. So this tells me the content streaming from Netflix isn't 60Hz, or does the native app support 60Hz?


Either way, super frustrating between this support and also the Xbox One Dolby Vision support for 2016 LG's. Any recommended set ups?
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post #27313 of 28166 Old 12-09-2018, 04:46 PM
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Is it just me? (Netflix DV bug?)

I have a 65C6. I've been watching the new "Haunting of Hill House" series on Netflix using the built-in app. You know how it dims the screen and puts up some basic show info when you hit pause? I've noticed that the screen doesn't automatically "re-brighten" when I resume play. It stays really dark. I have to either quit the app and resume, or wait until what I assume is the next signal from Dolby Vision to adjust the overall brightness. Is anybody else seeing this? I don't notice a problem with Daredevil. Everything was great in both Daredevil and Marco Polo when they were both standard HDR10.
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post #27314 of 28166 Old 12-10-2018, 04:42 AM
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I'm still working through my calibration process, but I noticed something tonight that surprised me. We have all been told that "Normal" color gamut was the correct setting for both SDR and HDR, but tonight I was measuring 10pt HDR saturation patterns using different color and gamut settings, and my measurements do not agree with that assumption. I measure 10pt saturation patterns for primary and secondary colors (66 patterns in total) and then compare the xy values to the xy targets. For each pattern I measure the xy distance from the measurement to the target (pythagorean theorem), and calculate a total error for those color and gamut settings which represents the total of all those xy distances. Ideally, the setting which results in the lowest error should be the most accurate. Here are my results for HDR Standard:

Click image for larger version

Name:	color.png
Views:	139
Size:	9.7 KB
ID:	2494540

As you can see the optimal Color setting for Normal gamut is 61, for Extended is 53, and for Wide is 47. However, what surprised me is that the optimal setting for both Wide and Extended gamuts result in a lower error than the optimal setting with Normal gamut, with Extended gamut and Color 53 ultimately being the best option.

I plan to do this same process for HDR Game, ISF Dark, and SDR Game modes, as well as Tint using the same method. Unfortunately I can't use this method in Dolby Vision as while my player's forced DV mode converts HDR10 to DV, it does so inaccurately, causing black crush which will oversaturate colors.

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post #27315 of 28166 Old 12-10-2018, 05:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ziptbm View Post
I'm seeing the same issue with my B6.


Setup
- Fire TV Stick 4k
- Direct to LG OLED B6


When display on Fire TV is set to "Auto", I get Dolby Vision for Netflix content (or always if I have HDR always enabled), but it is only 1080p.


When display on Fire TV is set to "2160p 60Hz", I get HDR for that same content. This must be the 30 v. 60Hz support.



What's interesting is that I view the same content via the native LG Netflix app and it shows in Dolby Vision. So this tells me the content streaming from Netflix isn't 60Hz, or does the native app support 60Hz?


Either way, super frustrating between this support and also the Xbox One Dolby Vision support for 2016 LG's. Any recommended set ups?
Essentially no content is native 4k/60p. Everything is 4K 24p/25p/30p which our display supports. However, many streaming sticks default to 60p for all content because 24p/30p/60p is all displayable at that rate and it cuts down on display issues. However, you need a device which can auto-switch framerates based on the native. Luckily many devices are beginning to support this such as the AppleTV 4K and Roku. It looks like FireTV can do this too based on this link: http://www.aftvnews.com/explanation-...mazon-fire-tv/

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post #27316 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by curtw View Post
I have a 65C6. I've been watching the new "Haunting of Hill House" series on Netflix using the built-in app. You know how it dims the screen and puts up some basic show info when you hit pause? I've noticed that the screen doesn't automatically "re-brighten" when I resume play. It stays really dark. I have to either quit the app and resume, or wait until what I assume is the next signal from Dolby Vision to adjust the overall brightness. Is anybody else seeing this? I don't notice a problem with Daredevil. Everything was great in both Daredevil and Marco Polo when they were both standard HDR10.
I haven't used any of the built in apps on my C6.
I'm either watching Netflix/Amazon on my Xbox One X or using my UHD player.
I have noticed that when viewing Dolby Vision movies on my UHD player that it's not as vibrant as the regular HDR.
I'm not sure if it's the Dolby Vision that's on the C6 or on my UHD player? Both need an upgrade.
And I'm still disappointed that the Dolby Vision update on the Xbox doesn't work on 2016 models. #stupid

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post #27317 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by NahsiK View Post
I haven't used any of the built in apps on my C6.
I'm either watching Netflix/Amazon on my Xbox One X or using my UHD player.
I have noticed that when viewing Dolby Vision movies on my UHD player that it's not as vibrant as the regular HDR.
I'm not sure if it's the Dolby Vision that's on the C6 or on my UHD player? Both need an upgrade.
And I'm still disappointed that the Dolby Vision update on the Xbox doesn't work on 2016 models. #stupid
It may be your HDR10 settings. They may be over bright or over saturated, and you get used to that, so when a more accurate image is displayed it doesn't look as nice right away. But if you watch more and more DV content I have a feeling you'll appreciate it much more than HDR10, as the tonemapping is much better and gives a much nicer image overall.

Much like when people get used to vivid modes and initially dislike properly calibrated settings.

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post #27318 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
I'm still working through my calibration process, but I noticed something tonight that surprised me. We have all been told that "Normal" color gamut was the correct setting for both SDR and HDR, but tonight I was measuring 10pt HDR saturation patterns using different color and gamut settings, and my measurements do not agree with that assumption. I measure 10pt saturation patterns for primary and secondary colors (66 patterns in total) and then compare the xy values to the xy targets. For each pattern I measure the xy distance from the measurement to the target (pythagorean theorem), and calculate a total error for those color and gamut settings which represents the total of all those xy distances. Ideally, the setting which results in the lowest error should be the most accurate. Here are my results for HDR Standard:



Attachment 2494540



As you can see the optimal Color setting for Normal gamut is 61, for Extended is 53, and for Wide is 47. However, what surprised me is that the optimal setting for both Wide and Extended gamuts result in a lower error than the optimal setting with Normal gamut, with Extended gamut and Color 53 ultimately being the best option.



I plan to do this same process for HDR Game, ISF Dark, and SDR Game modes, as well as Tint using the same method. Unfortunately I can't use this method in Dolby Vision as while my player's forced DV mode converts HDR10 to DV, it does so inaccurately, causing black crush which will oversaturate colors.


This is interesting. Not long ago I’ve asked this same question and I was corrected by several members on this board.

What are your findings with HDR game mode?

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post #27319 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 11:30 PM
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This is interesting. Not long ago I’ve asked this same question and I was corrected by several members on this board.

What are your findings with HDR game mode?
I've only checked Normal color gamut on HDR Game Mode so far, the best setting came in at 51. That result was also interesting considering HDR Standard at normal wanted Color at 61. I'll be checking extended and wide this weekend. Measuring 66 HDR patterns over and over again certainly takes a long time and I don't have much during the week.

Also, in HDR Standard I found a Tint of R2 to be best. Note that I'm testing this on HDR Standard that has been calibrated with both the service menu 2pt and the 20pt controls. HDR Game will just be from the 2pt. (idk how much grayscale affects color/tint settings)

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post #27320 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 11:38 PM
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2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
I've only checked Normal color gamut on HDR Game Mode so far, the best setting came in at 51. That result was also interesting considering HDR Standard at normal wanted Color at 61. I'll be checking extended and wide this weekend. Measuring 66 HDR patterns over and over again certainly takes a long time and I don't have much during the week.

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Well sir, thank you so much for your time, efforts and insights. It’s interesting and helpful! With HDR Game mode I use the dynamic contrast setting on medium, color gamut wide and color 60. 52 also looks good, but the reds have more pop on 60. The brightness level of the overall picture including colors fall in to place and is somewhat better and more detailed than HDR Standard.

Without dynamic contrast the screen is dimming down to an annoying level especially when playing FIFA 19 on the PS4 Pro( just like the horror Netflix show in Dolby Vision), so I can’t use that unfortunately.

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post #27321 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by IMWhizzle View Post
Well sir, thank you so much for your time, efforts and insights. It’s interesting and helpful! With HDR Game mode I use the dynamic contrast setting on medium, color gamut wide and color 60. 52 also looks good, but the reds have more pop on 60. The brightness level of the overall picture including colors fall in to place and is somewhat better and more detailed than HDR Standard.

Without dynamic contrast the screen is dimming down to an annoying level especially when playing FIFA 19 on the PS4 Pro( just like the horror Netflix show in Dolby Vision), so I can’t use that unfortunately.
I have a feeling that if the different tonemapping between game and standard result in different optimal color values, Dynamic Contrast probably does as well, although it would probably be a lot less consistent.

As for your dimming issue have you turned of ASBL (service menu)? I had that issue with AC Origins too in night scenes before I turned that off.

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post #27322 of 28166 Old 12-12-2018, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
I have a feeling that if the different tonemapping between game and standard result in different optimal color values, Dynamic Contrast probably does as well, although it would probably be a lot less consistent.

As for your dimming issue have you turned of ASBL (service menu)? I had that issue with AC Origins too in night scenes before I turned that off.

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Yes, the dynamic contrast feature in HDR Game mode is causing dull colors which can be compensated by playing with the color gamut setting and the color slider.

Unfortunately I don’t have a service remote. I only have an iPhone. Is there a possibility to access the menu by using an app?

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post #27323 of 28166 Old 12-13-2018, 04:41 AM
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Originally Posted by IMWhizzle View Post
Yes, the dynamic contrast feature in HDR Game mode is causing dull colors which can be compensated by playing with the color gamut setting and the color slider.

Unfortunately I don’t have a service remote. I only have an iPhone. Is there a possibility to access the menu by using an app?
Only way to use an app is your phone would need either an IR sensor built in or you have to by an IR sensor to plug into your headphone jack off you have one

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post #27324 of 28166 Old 12-14-2018, 09:34 AM
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I'm considering picking up a used 65b6p.

I've read various reports of issues send dd 5.1 via optical for the on board streaming apps. Can anyone tell me conclusively if there is an issue or if this model can output 5.1 dd over optical for the built in apps.

Also looking here I see issues with the newer firmware. Is there a best version to run and can I roll back?

Lastly is the bezel on these a shiny metal or a darker non reflective finish?
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post #27325 of 28166 Old 12-14-2018, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by wtfer View Post
I forget, is the 4.31.20 the last update before they had the elevated blacks?
How hard was it to downgrade from 5.40.01 to the one your on now?
I been dragging my feet on downgrading, as I', clueless on all that router talk in the instructions.
Is this issue you refer to a B6 issue or does it expand to C and other series?
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post #27326 of 28166 Old 12-14-2018, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by edo101 View Post
Is this issue you refer to a B6 issue or does it expand to C and other series?
I can answer the raised blacks are B6 only

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post #27327 of 28166 Old 12-15-2018, 12:01 AM
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Originally Posted by curlyjive View Post
I'm considering picking up a used 65b6p.

I've read various reports of issues send dd 5.1 via optical for the on board streaming apps. Can anyone tell me conclusively if there is an issue or if this model can output 5.1 dd over optical for the built in apps.

Also looking here I see issues with the newer firmware. Is there a best version to run and can I roll back?

Lastly is the bezel on these a shiny metal or a darker non reflective finish?

I use optical and it sends dd 5.1 out fine for Netflix and Amazon Apps that I use as well as anything on HDMI, I have not seen any issues with it.


The firmware can be rolled back but it requires some work.


The edge is dull metal, not shiny but not totally non reflective either.


If I were you I'd make up some slides and carefully check for picture problems, burn in, etc, before buying it.


I am happy with my OLED65B6 and wish you well with the one you are looking to buy.
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post #27328 of 28166 Old 12-15-2018, 11:00 AM
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Here's a new one: I switched back to the PC input from the TiVo yesterday, and the "PC HDMI4" message that comes up in the top left box to tell you what input you are on apparently got stuck. Sat there for a long time. I eventually turned the TV off and on again, and it went back to normal. (This was my B6).
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post #27329 of 28166 Old 12-18-2018, 05:36 PM
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LG Netflix app outputting 2-channel audio via DD signal after update

I just updated my LG B6 TV firmware and the Netflix app to versions:
TV: 05.80.15
Netflix: 1.4.72

and now I can't get Netflix to output older shows with 2-channel audio via Stereo the way it used to. Now it insists on sending a DD5.1 signal to my receiver with just audio only in front-left and front-right channels.

This shouldn't be a big deal, but I liked having the option to let my receiver just do Dolby Pro-Logic to the Stereo signal. My receiver won't do that since it thinks it's getting 5.1 channels.

Am I alone here, or is anybody else having this problem, and if so, does anybody know how to fix it?
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post #27330 of 28166 Old 12-19-2018, 12:25 AM
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Same problem on my B7 after latest updates.

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