2016 LG C6-B6 owners thread - Page 918 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27511 of 28192 Old 01-27-2019, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by tommyy2 View Post
On my 65B6 clicking when watching 1080 it shows resolution, but when watching Netflix, internal app, nothing shown when viewing menu and when watching a 4k show it brings up the options box clicking it only shows audio (5.1 etc) and sub titles but nothing about resolution.
It doesn't work for the internal apps unfortunately. You have to use the LG TV Plus app in the app store on Android or iphone

Go to the control setting and use the little i button in the lower right corner.

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post #27512 of 28192 Old 01-27-2019, 10:40 AM
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I use the LGTV plus app as well not perfect but works. Thanks.
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post #27513 of 28192 Old 01-27-2019, 11:01 AM
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I use the LGTV plus app as well not perfect but works. Thanks.
Sorry press the i button for info.
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post #27514 of 28192 Old 01-29-2019, 12:21 PM
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LG did respond and I had a replacement panel installed today. TV was 9 months out of warranty, so I have to give credit to LG for covering this even though they did not have to. Now I have to figure out what picture settings to use, as my wife will continue watching Fox News in the AM and PM and that was the main cause of the burn in.
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post #27515 of 28192 Old 01-29-2019, 12:48 PM
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I have a B6, and I noticed that the brightness setting with Dolby Vision content looks better with 49, in stead of 50. It looks like the best comprise. Some sources show black crush depending on how the content was mastered.

I use the Infuse app on the Apple TV 4K box. It forces everything to 4K Dolby Vision. For movie content the above looks amazing.

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post #27516 of 28192 Old 01-29-2019, 01:51 PM
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LG did respond and I had a replacement panel installed today. TV was 9 months out of warranty, so I have to give credit to LG for covering this even though they did not have to. Now I have to figure out what picture settings to use, as my wife will continue watching Fox News in the AM and PM and that was the main cause of the burn in.
Suggest you teach her to set the all direction zoom for that. Might help a bit. Hold the settings button until the option comes up and click Aspect Ratio. My burn-in came from FBN which has more yellow static elements. Mostly I listen with the screen off and watch on my old 42" if I need to watch something. Situation is hopeless with OLED and FBN.

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post #27517 of 28192 Old 01-29-2019, 02:57 PM
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TV repair shop called me back today. The entire panel of my two and a half year old B6 would need to be replaced. To do so would also cost $1,100. Like I would pay that much to fix an older TV instead of paying just a few hundred more to get a brand new C8. My credit card also offered a one year extended warranty over that of the manufacturer, but it expired six months ago.


Never have I ever had to purchase a warranty on electronic devices. Never had any die either before I was going to replace them anyway (5+ years). Figures that the one that I spent the most on ($2450) would be the one that actually needed it.
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post #27518 of 28192 Old 01-29-2019, 08:42 PM
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TV repair shop called me back today. The entire panel of my two and a half year old B6 would need to be replaced. To do so would also cost $1,100. Like I would pay that much to fix an older TV instead of paying just a few hundred more to get a brand new C8. My credit card also offered a one year extended warranty over that of the manufacturer, but it expired six months ago.


Never have I ever had to purchase a warranty on electronic devices. Never had any die either before I was going to replace them anyway (5+ years). Figures that the one that I spent the most on ($2450) would be the one that actually needed it.
I saw your previous post and can tell you that I had the same problem materialize 32 days after purchasing my C6. One vertical row of stuck pixels.

The retailer that I purchased it from offered no help other than referring me to LG for warranty service. But before I hung up the phone, the guy asked me if I had tried the “clear panel noise” function. I told him I had, but it didn’t help. He then asked if I had tried running a “pixel fixer”. Never having heard of such a thing, he explained what it was and where I could easily find one on YouTube. He also told me to run another compensation cycle immediately after running the video. Lastly, he told me not to get my hopes up. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.

I was skeptical, but figured I’d at least try it before calling LG. So using the internal YouTube app, I found the video I’ll link to below. I set my picture mode to “vivid”, set the tv to run another manual compensation cycle upon powering off, set the internal sleep timer for one hour, and then ran the video. Much to my surprise, it worked. The line was gone and, after nearly 10,000 hours on the set, it has never returned.

Here I’d the video I used...


If you want to try this, make sure you’re running the video full screen, then walk away for a few hours. Don’t watch the video as they say it can cause seizures. I don’t know if that’s true, but it is certainly annoying. Remember that the video itself will run for one hour and the following full compensation cycle can take up to another hour to complete.

Hopefully, this might work for you too. But if not, you’ve only lost two hours of your time.
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post #27519 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 01:38 AM
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I saw your previous post and can tell you that I had the same problem materialize 32 days after purchasing my C6. One vertical row of stuck pixels.

The retailer that I purchased it from offered no help other than referring me to LG for warranty service. But before I hung up the phone, the guy asked me if I had tried the “clear panel noise” function. I told him I had, but it didn’t help. He then asked if I had tried running a “pixel fixer”. Never having heard of such a thing, he explained what it was and where I could easily find one on YouTube. He also told me to run another compensation cycle immediately after running the video. Lastly, he told me not to get my hopes up. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.

I was skeptical, but figured I’d at least try it before calling LG. So using the internal YouTube app, I found the video I’ll link to below. I set my picture mode to “vivid”, set the tv to run another manual compensation cycle upon powering off, set the internal sleep timer for one hour, and then ran the video. Much to my surprise, it worked. The line was gone and, after nearly 10,000 hours on the set, it has never returned.

Here I’d the video I used...

https://youtu.be/ppWrX2ANsN4

If you want to try this, make sure you’re running the video full screen, then walk away for a few hours. Don’t watch the video as they say it can cause seizures. I don’t know if that’s true, but it is certainly annoying. Remember that the video itself will run for one hour and the following full compensation cycle can take up to another hour to complete.

Hopefully, this might work for you too. But if not, you’ve only lost two hours of your time.
Was it actually just a row of "stuck" pixels? Because what I have is a row of completely white pixels, and what happens when I turn the TV on, is there's a small white dot a couple of inches down where the row appears before it appears as it's powering up, and then the line appears. Also, it might be too late anyway since I told the repair guy that if it really was broken like that, then I would have no use for it, and he said that he could take the power cable out and then call the guy he uses to take it in for recycling. Guess I will call in the morning to see...
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post #27520 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 04:46 AM
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Was it actually just a row of "stuck" pixels? Because what I have is a row of completely white pixels, and what happens when I turn the TV on, is there's a small white dot a couple of inches down where the row appears before it appears as it's powering up, and then the line appears. Also, it might be too late anyway since I told the repair guy that if it really was broken like that, then I would have no use for it, and he said that he could take the power cable out and then call the guy he uses to take it in for recycling. Guess I will call in the morning to see...
Yes... one single row of white pixels from top to bottom. Before throwing it out, give it a try. If it doesn’t work the first time, try it again. At this point, you’ve got nothing to lose...
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post #27521 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 05:50 AM
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Yes... one single row of white pixels from top to bottom. Before throwing it out, give it a try. If it doesn’t work the first time, try it again. At this point, you’ve got nothing to lose...

The good news at least is that I just called the TV repair place, and despite me basically telling them to do whatever they wanted with it, since it would have been trash to me if it really needed a panel fixed anyway, and despite the guy I spoke with yesterday saying that he could probably get a use out of the power cable and then just send it in to be recycled, they didn't do anything to it yet and said that I can come in and pick it up. I know it's a crapshoot, but that's still better than not trying if there's even the slimmest chance that this will work. Going to be something if this does work though, and you would have saved me a lot of money.
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post #27522 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 06:29 AM
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The good news at least is that I just called the TV repair place, and despite me basically telling them to do whatever they wanted with it, since it would have been trash to me if it really needed a panel fixed anyway, and despite the guy I spoke with yesterday saying that he could probably get a use out of the power cable and then just send it in to be recycled, they didn't do anything to it yet and said that I can come in and pick it up. I know it's a crapshoot, but that's still better than not trying if there's even the slimmest chance that this will work. Going to be something if this does work though, and you would have saved me a lot of money.
Great... I hope it works for you too.
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post #27523 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 12:56 PM
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Looks like a new firmware is up for the B6 on the LG Korean site.
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post #27524 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 01:05 PM
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Looks like a new firmware is up for the B6 on the LG Korean site.
nice, any idea of the changelog?
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post #27525 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 01:20 PM
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nice, any idea of the changelog?
Same 05.30.50 version which was released in November 2018 for the P models but for the K models.
https://www.lg.com/us/support-product/lg-OLED65B6P
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post #27526 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 05:35 PM
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still don't get why my HDR PC gaming still looks so washed out.

I have tried all different settings on my E6 and they all seem to give me a washed out picture compared to RGB 8b mode.

Can someone help suggest what all my TV and PC settings should be set to?

Input label: I have tried Game console and PC
Nvidia CP: I have tried RGB 8b limited, and 422 10b limited
Windows Display setting: I have tried HDR on and off
TV Picture mode: I have it set to HDR game
HDMI Deepcolor: On ofcourse

Not sure what else to try?
Or is it that I am really suppose to have it professionaly calibrated or something?
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post #27527 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 06:31 PM
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Great... I hope it works for you too.
Tried running the video you linked and then using the Clear Panel Noise option after four times in a row now and nada. The really odd thing too is that I'm not sure it's even that the pixels themselves are actually "stuck", because if they were, then why when the CPN horizontal bar is scrolling from top to bottom is that the only white bar on the screen? If the vertical line of white of pixels on my screen were simply stuck, they should be on screen during that point as well, but they aren't. Also, when using the different "pixel fixer" flashing videos, basically everything but the line is flashing. It just remains a solid white.


Oh well. Thanks for giving me an option to try. I had already accepted that it was trashed anyway prior to trying this out. Guess I'm getting a C9 in six months.
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post #27528 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 07:06 PM
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Tried running the video you linked and then using the Clear Panel Noise option after four times in a row now and nada. The really odd thing too is that I'm not sure it's even that the pixels themselves are actually "stuck", because if they were, then why when the CPN horizontal bar is scrolling from top to bottom is that the only white bar on the screen? If the vertical line of white of pixels on my screen were simply stuck, they should be on screen during that point as well, but they aren't. Also, when using the different "pixel fixer" flashing videos, basically everything but the line is flashing. It just remains a solid white.


Oh well. Thanks for giving me an option to try. I had already accepted that it was trashed anyway prior to trying this out. Guess I'm getting a C9 in six months.
Sorry to hear that it didn’t work for you, but a new C9 sounds like a pretty awesome backup plan to me...
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post #27529 of 28192 Old 01-30-2019, 07:44 PM
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Sounds like it could be a GPU issue, not necessarily the panel itself. Something in the image rendering seems bugged

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post #27530 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 04:38 AM
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Tried running the video you linked and then using the Clear Panel Noise option after four times in a row now and nada. The really odd thing too is that I'm not sure it's even that the pixels themselves are actually "stuck", because if they were, then why when the CPN horizontal bar is scrolling from top to bottom is that the only white bar on the screen? If the vertical line of white of pixels on my screen were simply stuck, they should be on screen during that point as well, but they aren't. Also, when using the different "pixel fixer" flashing videos, basically everything but the line is flashing. It just remains a solid white.


Oh well. Thanks for giving me an option to try. I had already accepted that it was trashed anyway prior to trying this out. Guess I'm getting a C9 in six months.
Don't know if it's practical to do this...but just as a curiosity of mine...would it be possible to heat the room up. Maybe to 90/95 degrees or higher? Then run the tv in vivid mode to heat it up further? If there is a break in a line of connections (row) in the screen I'm wondering if heat could cause the connection to expand enough to make a contact again.

Not a solution. Even if it "fixes" it...it would contract in cooler temps and the connection would be broken again. But I'm curious.

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post #27531 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 12:39 PM
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Don't know if it's practical to do this...but just as a curiosity of mine...would it be possible to heat the room up. Maybe to 90/95 degrees or higher? Then run the tv in vivid mode to heat it up further? If there is a break in a line of connections (row) in the screen I'm wondering if heat could cause the connection to expand enough to make a contact again.

Not a solution. Even if it "fixes" it...it would contract in cooler temps and the connection would be broken again. But I'm curious.
No, I don't have that as an option, but I did run it for like a combined eight hours in Vivid. Funny that you would mention something like that though, because soldering reflow is a thing. I actually ended up tossing an older GPU into the oven after it had "died", and that fixed it. I ended up replacing it anyway a few months later to something better, but it was still a neat experiment.

I wonder if HDR on PC had anything to do with this either (not sure why it would), but whenever you play games on PC, you need to change the output of the PC itself to enable HDR, and when you are exiting the game and hitting the desktop, the screen flashes all glitchy looking for a split second when exiting HDR. When this went out, I still had the PC on for about thirty minutes, but I had shut the TV off so that it wasn't just having a static image on the screen for no reason. When I turned it back on, the line appeared. It's not like I've actually been playing PC games with HDR much anyway though for that matter, and this is actually the first game where I've had to manually adjust anything to get it to work. The only other game that I played on PC with HDR was RE7 (literally two years ago), and with the way HDR was working with Windows back then, you didn't need to adjust anything. It simply switched on its own.

Could it maybe have started its default compensation cycle since I had had the TV on for like nine hours up to that point, and me interrupting it caused this? If so, that's something that most users wouldn't even be aware of being a potential risk.

Also, for anyone who has dealt with any kind of extended warranties, how do they normally work? Because it sounds like it should be an extension over the default warranty (the extended warranty coverage kicks in after the previous ends), but the wording could be tricky like that and it simply means it's an extended amount of time. I don't want to pay for an extended three year warranty only to find out that in reality, I have only gained one year over the default warranty and the extended one that my credit card already provides. I need to find a better solution than simply buying a new TV each time, because these are not cheap. Not sure if home owners or renters insurance would cover them either.

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post #27532 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 02:59 PM
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No, I don't have that as an option, but I did run it for like a combined eight hours in Vivid. Funny that you would mention something like that though, because soldering reflow is a thing. I actually ended up tossing an older GPU into the oven after it had "died", and that fixed it. I ended up replacing it anyway a few months later to something better, but it was still a neat experiment.

I wonder if HDR on PC had anything to do with this either (not sure why it would), but whenever you play games on PC, you need to change the output of the PC itself to enable HDR, and when you are exiting the game and hitting the desktop, the screen flashes all glitchy looking for a split second when exiting HDR. When this went out, I still had the PC on for about thirty minutes, but I had shut the TV off so that it wasn't just having a static image on the screen for no reason. When I turned it back on, the line appeared. It's not like I've actually been playing PC games with HDR much anyway though for that matter, and this is actually the first game where I've had to manually adjust anything to get it to work. The only other game that I played on PC with HDR was RE7 (literally two years ago), and with the way HDR was working with Windows back then, you didn't need to adjust anything. It simply switched on its own.

Could it maybe have started its default compensation cycle since I had had the TV on for like nine hours up to that point, and me interrupting it caused this? If so, that's something that most users wouldn't even be aware of being a potential risk.

Also, for anyone who has dealt with any kind of extended warranties, how do they normally work? Because it sounds like it should be an extension over the default warranty (the extended warranty coverage kicks in after the previous ends), but the wording could be tricky like that and it simply means it's an extended amount of time. I don't want to pay for an extended three year warranty only to find out that in reality, I have only gained one year over the default warranty and the extended one that my credit card already provides. I need to find a better solution than simply buying a new TV each time, because these are not cheap. Not sure if home owners or renters insurance would cover them either.
I would think most extended warranties would cover this issue. BI is where they duck out. Best Buy is the only one that will cover BI...that I know of.

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post #27533 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 04:11 PM
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I would think most extended warranties would cover this issue. BI is where they duck out. Best Buy is the only one that will cover BI...that I know of.

That's not specifically what I was asking. I was asking if the warranty kicks in after the coverage from the previous year or two ends (from the previous/separate warranties), or if it's counting a "three year extended" from the initial purchase date, thus making it far less than three years.


I think I found my answer anyway:
Quote:
An extended warranty, sometimes called a service agreement, a service contract, or a maintenance agreement, is a prolonged warranty offered to consumers in addition to the standard warranty on new items. The extended warranty may be offered by the warranty administrator, the retailer or the manufacturer. Extended warranties cost extra and for a percentage of the item's retail price. Occasionally, some extended warranties that are purchased for multiple years state in writing that during the first year, the consumer must still deal with the manufacturer in the occurrence of malfunction. Thus, what is often promoted as a five-year extended guarantee, for example, is actually only a four-year guarantee.

It seems like it just depends, and varies by those offering the warranties.
Quote:
Service plans are also active from the date of purchase, unlike extended warranties, which become active when the manufacturer's warranty expires, meaning products can be purchased with service plans that is before or at the same time as the manufacturer's warranty.
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post #27534 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 10:10 PM
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still don't get why my HDR PC gaming still looks so washed out.



I have tried all different settings on my E6 and they all seem to give me a washed out picture compared to RGB 8b mode.



Can someone help suggest what all my TV and PC settings should be set to?



Input label: I have tried Game console and PC

Nvidia CP: I have tried RGB 8b limited, and 422 10b limited

Windows Display setting: I have tried HDR on and off

TV Picture mode: I have it set to HDR game

HDMI Deepcolor: On ofcourse



Not sure what else to try?

Or is it that I am really suppose to have it professionaly calibrated or something?
struggled with this for the longest time. On the latest firmware on my B6, these are the settings that get game mode as close to HDR Standard as possible on my panel:

Windows HDR: On
Nvidia CP: 422 12bpc

HDR Game Mode:
OLED Light - 100
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 50
Sharpness - 10
Color - 60
Tint - 0
Color Temperature - W48

Dynamic Contrast - Medium
Color Gamut - Wide

Black Level - Low

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post #27535 of 28192 Old 01-31-2019, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fruitypwny View Post
struggled with this for the longest time. On the latest firmware on my B6, these are the settings that get game mode as close to HDR Standard as possible on my panel:

Windows HDR: On
Nvidia CP: 422 12bpc

HDR Game Mode:
OLED Light - 100
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 50
Sharpness - 10
Color - 60
Tint - 0
Color Temperature - W48

Dynamic Contrast - Medium
Color Gamut - Wide

Black Level - Low

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Color at 60 seems way too high when you have gamut at wide. During my recent tests, with gamut set to wide, the most accurate color setting would be 42.

With Extended, the most accurate setting was 46, and with Normal the most accurate was 51. Overall though Wide and 42 gave slightly less error than the other two values.

No Dynamic Contrast though, as that definitely hurts the image a lot imo

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post #27536 of 28192 Old 02-01-2019, 03:06 AM
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Originally Posted by narrn001 View Post
still don't get why my HDR PC gaming still looks so washed out.

I have tried all different settings on my E6 and they all seem to give me a washed out picture compared to RGB 8b mode.

Can someone help suggest what all my TV and PC settings should be set to?

Input label: I have tried Game console and PC
Nvidia CP: I have tried RGB 8b limited, and 422 10b limited
Windows Display setting: I have tried HDR on and off
TV Picture mode: I have it set to HDR game
HDMI Deepcolor: On ofcourse

Not sure what else to try?
Or is it that I am really suppose to have it professionaly calibrated or something?

Might be an obvious setting you've already changed, but you are switching your black level when you go from RGB Full to Limited right? If not, your screen is going to look like the gamma is way too high. I've been gaming on an E6 with Windows 10 since Monday without any issues.

Also, what games have you been trying to play? Hopefully you haven't just been playing RE2 and thinking your settings are off because of the way it looks. If so, the game looks more washed out in some areas than it should be, but it's a color grading/design choice. Another thing too is that HDR "Game" looks terrible compared to HDR Standard, so maybe try switching it to Standard first to see how it looks in comparison if you haven't yet.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitypwny View Post
struggled with this for the longest time. On the latest firmware on my B6, these are the settings that get game mode as close to HDR Standard as possible on my panel:

Windows HDR: On
Nvidia CP: 422 12bpc

HDR Game Mode:
OLED Light - 100
Contrast - 100
Brightness - 50
Sharpness - 10
Color - 60
Tint - 0
Color Temperature - W48


Dynamic Contrast - Medium
Color Gamut - Wide

Black Level - Low
Did something change over the last year and a half regarding HDR and color gamut? Because when the sets were first released, people were under the impression that you needed to set it to Wide for it to be accurate, but it was later on said to be inaccurate, and that Normal or Standard is what it should be set to and that Extended and Wide shouldn't even be touched in most cases. I never updated beyond 4.30.x though.

Also, I'm not sure 12-bit makes a difference in the slightest under Windows 10 with HDR, especially since HDR doesn't even use it anyway, only Dolby Vision is 12-bit. On top of that, simply leaving it on 8-bit/RGB Limited more often than not makes no appreciable difference in the way a game looks in HDR nor the banding. RE7 was awful with banding, and 8-bit, 10-bit and 12-bit looked exactly the same in that regard.

Last edited by Plasmoidial; 02-01-2019 at 03:25 AM.
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post #27537 of 28192 Old 02-01-2019, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Plasmoidial View Post
Did something change over the last year and a half regarding HDR and color gamut? Because when the sets were first released, people were under the impression that you needed to set it to Wide for it to be accurate, but it was later on said to be inaccurate, and that Normal or Standard is what it should be set to and that Extended and Wide shouldn't even be touched in most cases. I never updated beyond 4.30.x though.
Normal is supposed to be correct for every mode theoretically, but in my tests, I've found that might not necessarily be true. In my tests for HDR Standard, Extended with a color setting of 53 provided the most accurate results, and in HDR Game, Wide with a color setting of 42 proved to be the most accurate. That being said, when color was adjusted correctly, you can get very similar results in any of the gamuts.

If you want to use Normal color gamut, then I recommend a color setting of 61 in HDR Standard, and 51 in HDR Game.

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post #27538 of 28192 Old 02-01-2019, 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by morphinapg View Post
Color at 60 seems way too high when you have gamut at wide. During my recent tests, with gamut set to wide, the most accurate color setting would be 42.



With Extended, the most accurate setting was 46, and with Normal the most accurate was 51. Overall though Wide and 42 gave slightly less error than the other two values.



No Dynamic Contrast though, as that definitely hurts the image a lot imo
I set the color that high to compensate for Dynamic Contrast. While I agree dynamic contrast negatively affects the image quality, HDR game mode just doesn't have that pop in the highlights without it (when comparing side by side with HDR Standard).

I settled with those settings by testing side by against HDR Standard with Extended Color Gamut and color at 53.

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post #27539 of 28192 Old 02-01-2019, 11:43 PM
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Originally Posted by fruitypwny View Post
I set the color that high to compensate for Dynamic Contrast. While I agree dynamic contrast negatively affects the image quality, HDR game mode just doesn't have that pop in the highlights without it (when comparing side by side with HDR Standard).

I settled with those settings by testing side by against HDR Standard with Extended Color Gamut and color at 53.

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Peak highlights come out at the same nits on both. There is very slightly less highlight crush on HDR game, but it's not a huge difference between the two. There used to be a much more significant difference on older firmware but that was fixed. The new HDR Game is actually slightly more accurate in nit mapping than HDR Standard though.

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post #27540 of 28192 Old 02-02-2019, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Kenbar View Post
Don't know if it's practical to do this...but just as a curiosity of mine...would it be possible to heat the room up. Maybe to 90/95 degrees or higher? Then run the tv in vivid mode to heat it up further? If there is a break in a line of connections (row) in the screen I'm wondering if heat could cause the connection to expand enough to make a contact again.

Not a solution. Even if it "fixes" it...it would contract in cooler temps and the connection would be broken again. But I'm curious.
I'll remember this and place my b6 on my sauna if it happens to me :P. WHO knows it might work.
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